NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Although this Lone Star State-born churrascaria most likely attracts more vehement carnivores than vegetarian converts, they do manage to accommodate non-meat eaters with what they identify as their "light" dining menu.

The scaled-back tier ($29.99 at dinner/brunch; $17.99 at lunch) excludes any interaction with the skewer-wielding gauchos shuffling about with nearly every manner of grilled meat ($42.99 at dinner/brunch; $19.99 at lunch), but does afford patrons full reign of the dozens of worldly delicacies housed on the central dining island.

Savory amenities include: sun-dried tomatoes, tongue-teasing manzanilla olives, marinated mushrooms, grilled red peppers, black pepper-cured salami, steaming feijoada (Brazilian pork and black-bean stew), orzo salad, artichoke hearts, aged cheeses (including manchego and a mammoth, chip-your-own wheel of Parmesan), smoked salmon with Creole mustard and potatoes au gratin.

"It's a lot of food. You won't go away unsatisfied," one staffer pledges.

My plate runneth over.