NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

I think Fairfax should seriously consider dismantling its entire fire-fighting structure.

Not because of any budget deficits or a spike in civilian preparedness. I just didn’t appreciate getting stuck behind an entire fire brigade the last time I popped into Bernie’s for my fix of beer-can chicken.

Owners Bernard and Leah Socha have parlayed Bernard’s previous career as co-owner of D.C.’s Wagshal’s deli into an eatery and retail operation of their own.

The deli side focuses on custom sandwiches and hot meals the likes of shepherd’s pies, homemade knishes and daily specials, while retail draws include cold drinks (everything from Dr. Brown’s sodas to cold beers and bubbly) to classic impulse buys (dill pickles, gourmet salami).

The aforementioned roast chicken bears bits of brown sugar, paprika and herbs smeared across its bronzed yet juicy skin (three cheers for vaporized beer!), while the aromatic meat remains succulent throughout.

The Superior sandwich beats expectations, heaping corned beef, pastrami, roast beef, sharp cheddar, chicken liver (buttery richness was almost like a second dressing), coleslaw and Russian dressing atop rye bread (breathtaking). Spicy chicken salad yields shredded white meat, diced celery and tart red grapes slathered in yellow curry.