(June/July 2008)

By Warren Rojas

Tucked behind the downtown Winchester promenade sits One Block West, an epicurean gem hidden in not-quite-plain sight.

Owner and self-taught toque Ed Matthews loves to work seasonally, but seems to regularly work assorted game and artisan meats (keep an eye out for ever-changing interpretations of rabbit, quail and Surry Sausage—smoked pork produced exclusively by a southeastern Virginia family) into his menu rotation.

The aforementioned grilled sausages are only the starting point for a brilliant salad melding savory pork, bitter celery, tart cranberries, caramelized apples and crunchy walnuts (a textural and flavorful delight).

Matthews’ affinity for all things Old Dominion spills over into a wide-reaching wine list boasting dozens of global whites and reds by the glass, including over a half-dozen homegrown dessert selections (all local wines are stamped with a prominent VA! tag for easy identification).