NVM Review

Beef Patty and Jerk Pork

By Warren Rojas

Downtown Fairfax is about as far removed from an island paradise as they come. But those wily souls who wander into the alley, then duck down the stairs into this subterranean den are rewarded with delicious Jamaican standbys. The Spartan restaurant hosts just three bare tables and a kitchen that is largely unseen but not unheard; a symphony of sizzling proteins, friendly banter and upbeat reggae/ska/dancehall serenade those awaiting meals. Do not resist house-made beef patties wrapping a fiery paste of seasoned beef and beans beneath slightly buttery and eminently flaky pastry dough. But save room for jerk pork, a weekend special pairing unctuous swine slow-cooked in a mess of stinging spices, with rice, beans and pickled slaw.

By Warren Rojas

Although owner Anthony Richards insists native Jamaicans prefer their pigs breathe fire—his private stash of pickled scotch bonnet peppers is hot as Hades—the man jerks pork for US. The slow-cooked swine is slathered in a blackstrap molasses-like glaze that smacks of black pepper, cinnamon, onion and garlic, its blackened skin cooked to a crunchtacular conclusion. Fair warning: It goes fast.