Posts Tagged ‘Barry Koslow’
Posted by Warren Rojas / Wednesday, June 29th, 2011
(Image: Facebook)
Executive chef Barry Koslow will close out his tenure at Tallula on Tuesday, July 5.
“I’ve decided it’s time to move on,” Koslow shared in an email.
Koslow’s imminent departure signals a very real changing of the guard at the Neighborhood Restaurant Group‘s fine dining/gastropub hybrid, a shift that began last year when EatBar chef Joey Alvarez split to join forces with Peter Pastan.
According to an NRG spokeswoman, the cooking duties at Tallula will be spread amongst in-network talent. ”
While we are in a transitional phase we are being supported by the great depth both at Tallula and the other restaurants, especially by some of our up and coming chefs that have shown a lot of promise,” she stated, adding, “There’s no immediate executive chef taking the spot.”
The spokeswoman also indicated that chef Brian Wilson, who has logged time in several high profile kitchens (2941, Eola, New Heights, Palena), has been behind the EatBar burners for several months now. *Updated: 6/29 @ 3 p.m.* Brian Wilson decamped from EatBar earlier this month.
Although he expressed a desire to decompress for a spell and reconnect with his budding family (he has a 10-month old baby girl), Koslow did leave the door open to returning to the hospitality game.
“I have many options to sort through while I take my first brake [sic] from the kitchen in 12 years,” Koslow suggested. No word, yet, if said “options” include tackling that nouveau deli concept he floated earlier this month.
–Warren
Posted by Warren Rojas / Tuesday, May 10th, 2011
Don’t let Jay Jenc’s shy-boy act fool you:
(Image: Peter Nicoll)
The well-seasoned chef–and occasional rock band frontman (give it up for Jumpin Jupiter!)–led kitchens all over the D.C.- Metro area (Cafe Saint-Ex, Iota, Willard Intercontinental) before becoming the resident barbecue wrangler at the always free from Westover Market.
WR: Salt. Pepper. What other spices/herbs could you not live without?
JJ: Garlic, fresh or granulated. Sage, cumin, thyme, parsley, fresh basil. Chili powders such as cayanne [SIC], hungarian paprika, ancho, etc. are a must.
WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered? How long did it take? Do you still make it today?
JJ: Pancakes! I can’t remember when I “mastered” them, but I started the prototypes at age 7 or 8 years old. Oh yea, I definitely still make them. Endless varieties…
WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?
JJ: Well, seasons change, so it’s green peas and pea shoots in the spring, tomatoes in the summer, venison and rockfish in the fall and gourds in the winter.
WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …
JJ: I’ve gotta go south here, namely Creole, with a little low-country in there too.
WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you make it again?
JJ: Not a dish, but an art: sausages. Even with my longtime friend and neighbor Jamie Stachowski working side by side on the stuff for years, there is still a lot for me to learn in order to get it just right. Oh, and pommes souffle.
WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to collaborate with …
JJ: Barry Koslow. We don’t ever hang out or do anything together, but he’s a great guy that I’ve known for years and whose work and career I’ve followed for quite a while.
WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for yourself?
JJ: It starts with a big ol’ plate of steamed or sauteed spinach, a flash of well seasoned tomato or tomato sauce and some good Greek feta, not that really salty stuff. It goes on from there sometimes depending on what’s hanging around…
WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss my …
JJ: BBQ events at the Westover Market! First Friday and second Saturday of every month! Pulled pork is the constant crowd pleaser. Randomly featured other offerings include beef brisket, smoked pork ribs, split smoked chicken and artisan brats and kielbasa sandwiches.
WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …
JJ: Abita root beer knocks me for a loop these days. Alcohol makes me do dumb stuff … but that’s another story.
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Smoked pork ribs and kielbasa sandwiches sound like the perfect summer eats. Can’t wait to try yours.
Come back next Tuesday for another helping of Red Meat.
–Warren
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, March 18th, 2010
Sweetbread Saltimbocca with Pomodoro Sauce
Tallula toque Barry Koslow recalls sending out his fair share of ham-wrapped veal and chicken dishes years ago, but has always wanted to put his own stamp on the Italian specialty knows as saltimbocca. Enter his sweetbread-based iteration. “Our wine director likes to pair it with a tempranillo like the 2002 Lopez de Heredia ‘Vina Cubillo’ Rioja,” Koslow notes.
Photography by James Kim
Barry Koslow
Executive chef, Tallula
Prep time: 5 min.
Cook time: 25 min.
Servings: 4
INGREDIENTS
Pomodoro sauce
2 ounces yellow onion, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
12 ounces San Marzano tomatoes, crushed
1 fresh bay leaf
1 lobe veal sweetbreads (approximately 12 ounces), cleaned
4 sage leaves
4 pieces prosciutto, thinly sliced
4 ounces AP flour
2 eggs (whisked with 1 tablespoon water)
4 ounces bread crumbs
Canola oil
Salt and pepper (to taste)
PREPARATION
1. Sweat onions, garlic over very low heat. Add tomatoes and bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper; simmer (about 25 minutes).
2. Slice the sweetbread into four, 3-ounce lobes. Season to taste.
3. Top each sweetbread lobe with sage and wrap in prosciutto.
4. Dip each sweetbread wrap in: flour, egg, then bread crumbs. Shake off the excess during each step.
5. Heat canola oil in a saute pan over medium high heat until it begins to smoke. Flash sear (about 2 minutes per side) each lobe. Transfer the browned sweetbreads to a 350 F oven for 12 minutes (or until desired doneness). Dry the cooked sweetbreads on a paper towel.
6. Ladel the pomodoro sauce onto four plates, and place a sweetbread on each pool of sauce.
(March 2010)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, March 13th, 2009
Would that prime cuts of beefs and charcuterie could save our flagging economy.
(Photo: Laurent Jung)
Because this area boasts a slew of custom meat purveyors par excellence.
Tallula/EatBar ex-toque Nathan Anda left the Arlington gastrohub last summer to develop his own charcuterie concept, which has since evolved into the Red Apron Butchery. Though he’s still scouting final locations for the shop–something Anda hopes is “weeks, not months away”–Anda already envisions a full-service facility replete with homemade sauces, gourmet foodstuffs and exotic proteins.
“It’ll be an experience, going in there,” Anda insists. He plans to specialize in “stuff that isn’t available everywhere,” tossing out pig ear terrines, cured lamb bellies, handmade lardo and trotters as potential impulse buys.
In the meantime, Anda’s current catalog (cured meats, homemade hot dogs) will be available for retail purchase at Planet Wine and officially debuts in Buzz‘s panini line. Anda is also firming up his relationships with various local farmers markets, estimating that he’ll make the rounds to the weekly Ballston, Penn Quarter and possibly one other open-air showplace beginning early next month.
Anda is also talking with fellow Neighborhood Restaurant Group chefs Anthony Chittum (Vermilion) and Frank Morales (Rustico) about weaving some of his wares into their menus.
“Hopefully, in the coming months, he’ll be using my pepperoni,” Anda said of the spicy sausage he’s developed for Morales’ gourmet pies. He also plans to make his products readily available to incoming Tallula chef Barry Koslow–though he suspects the charcuterie-savvy Koslow will not want for jaw-dropping snackables.
“With Barry coming in, it’s [Tallula] going to be awesome,” Anda predicts.
Meanwhile, Robert Wiedmaier’s new gourmet shop, The Butcher’s Block should be up and running shortly. Chef Chris Watson will oversee a gourmet retailer (along with the fledgling BRABO/BRABO Tasting Room) poised to offer fresh breads, wild game and a bevy of Belgian beers.
Down the road in Del Ray, Aussie butcher Stephen Gatward has developed a loyal following at Let’s Meat on the Avenue by serving up hard-to-find items (kangaroo meat, anyone?) as well as neighborhood necessities (smoked dog bones).
For those who enjoy a a dash of intrigue with their entrails, the mercurial Jamie Stachowski continues to peddle his cured goodies in the darnedest places (next delivery: tomorrow at noon).
And I would be terribly remiss if I didn’t give a nod to the gourmet links that spring from the mind of improbable sausage baron, Stanley Feder.
We’ve never had it so good.
–Warren Rojas