Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, July 15th, 2010
Once upon a time, many years ago, Whitlow’s on Wilson began a tradition called Mug Night in which guests could bring in any vessel that they could justify as mug-like to be worthy of bearing their favorite hoppy beverage. (e.g. glasses from home, trophy cups, old boots). Due to draconian Alcohol Beverage Control laws, restaurants are required to responsibly restrict levels of creativity.

(image: The Official Site of Arlington County)
That doesn’t mean we can’t celebrate Mug Night tonight with some great beer discounts – just bring a Whitlow’s mug from home. Oh? What’s that? You don’t have your own Whitlow’s mug? This afternoon only, go ask the bar for a free one between 4-6p.m. (Yes, you get to keep it. This is much easier on the conscience than making your girlfriend hide it in her oversized purse.) After your first regularly priced beer, refills are only $1.50 on Thursdays between 4-9p.m. (Yes, today is Thursday.)
Today’s Mug Night is a special cause for celebration as Whitlow’s is announcing the addition of 12 new microbrews to the menu. The menu now includes:
I’m just tickled that there is a beer which shares a name with my favorite muppet. (It’s actually a reference to Hunter Thompson’s Dr. Gonzo. I guess there’s a reason we can’t have muppets endorsing alcohol.)
-Jamel Daugherty
A Toast to American Craft Beer
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, May 20th, 2010
I Am A Craft Brewer from I Am A Craft Brewer on Vimeo.
This week, May 17-23, is American Craft Beer Week (ACBW). It’s a time to celebrate the small, independent, and traditional breweries.
To be classified as a craft brewery, the Brewers Associations defines a craft brewer as:
- “small”- having an annual production of beer less than 2 million barrels,
- “independent” whereby less than 25% of the craft brewery is owned or controlled by an alcoholic beverage industry member who is not themselves a craft brewer, and
- “traditional”- a brewer with either an all mat flagship or at least 50% of its volume in either all malt beers or in beers which used adjuncts to enhance rather than lighten flavor.
Can’t understand any of those terms? Fortunately there are classes throughout the Northern Virginia region. Shenandoah Brewing Company hosts classes and allows customers to brew their own beer in Alexandria.
(Video: Shenandoah Brewing Company)
Virginia Tech students can take a Brewing Science and Technology class. Just another reason why I love Tech.
During 2009, 1595 small craft breweries operated in the US, which is the highest amount of breweries since before Prohibition. The craft brewing industry has grown since last year and sold an estimated 9,115,635 barrels of beer during 2009, compared to 8,501,713 barrels in 2008.
Congress recently toasted American Craft Brewers in a Resolution stating:
Now, therefore, be it Resolved, That the House of Representatives supports the goals and ideals of American Craft Beer Week, as founded by the Brewers Association; recognizes the significant contributions of craft brewers to the economy of the United States; and encourages beer-lovers of the United States to celebrate American Craft Beer Week through events at microbreweries, brewpubs, and beer stores across the United States to appreciate the accomplishments of craft brewers.
That’s right; Congress is telling you to drink craft beer! BrewFanatics even has a convincing Top Ten Reasons Why You Should Drink Craft Beer.
While the week is almost over, it doesn’t mean you can’t pay a visit to local Northern Virginia restaurants serving a variety of microbrews or take part in some ACBW events. Below is a list of craft beer events this week and in the next month to keep you happy.
Rock Bottom Brewery is featuring a unique beer each day of the week. Thursday’s brew is the Naughty Scot Oak Aged Scotch Ale, Friday’s is the house Red, Saturday’s is the Belgian Golden Ale, and Sunday’s brew is the Braggot (the house brown aged in a bourbon barrel with honey and pomegranate).
Legend Brewery of Richmond will be at the Alamo Drafthouse lobby in Winchester from 5-8p.m tonight. Taste a variety of Legend’s beers and Alamo snacks for free. For $5 you can stick around for the film Legend, which stars Tom Cruise.
Old Dominion Brewery will have beer tastings at Total Wine Fairfax on Friday, the 21st from 5-8p.m. and at Martin’s Market in Pickett Shopping Center on Saturday, May 22nd from 1-5p.m.
This Saturday, May 22 is the 2010 River City Beer Fest at The Diamond in Richmond. The event will be from 12-6 and include a children’s fun area, local bands, and over 50 microbreweries from across the nation. Representatives from the breweries will be around to educate consumers. A $2 donation is appreciated, as the event benefits the Cullather Brain Tumor Quality of Life Center at Bon Secours.
As Rustico’s General Manager Jason Asher puts it, “Every day is American Craft Beer Week at Rustico.” While they may not have any events lined up for this ACBW, read on for their meet & greet events with brewmasters before and after Savor DC (which is sold out). All events include glassware.
On June 4th meet Terrapin brewmaster and cofounder Spike Buckowski from 6-9pm for a tasting of four beers, including Hopsecutioner with Centennial dry hops, Jope Karma with Vanilla and Cinnamon, Gamma Ray, and Boomshakalager.
On June 5th meet Stone owner Greg Koch from 11:30a.m.-2p.m. Taste the Double Dry Hopped Stone IPA Keg, the Stone 10th Anniversary Blend Imperial Russian Stout Keg, and the Ruination IPA Cask.
On June 6th meet Coronado founder Rick Chapman from 2-5p.m for a tasting of the Nutter Brown Cask and the Coronado Irish Stout Cask.
Make a trip to Richmond for the World Beer Festival on June 12th. The event, produced by All About Beer Magazine, benefits FETCH a Cure and consists of two sessions (12-4pm; 6-10pm) priced at $40 per session in advance; $50 at the door; and $75 for VIP. Over 200 breweries will take part, including Old Dominion Brewery and Legend Brewery
Check out the Northern Virginia BrewFest in Leesburg from June 26-27. Over 50 of America’s best breweries will participate. Included in the price of admission is a 6.75oz sampling glass and 4 beer sampling tickets. Additional tickets can be purchased for $1 a piece. Wine will also be available for tasting. There will also be live entertainment, a BrewFest Marketplace featuring local and regional vendors/crafters/artisans, and a family fun area for the kids. Tickets are $20 online and $25 at the door for adults, $15/20 for designated drivers and can be used for one day only but can be used for either day of the festival.
If that’s not enough to keep you satisfied visit CraftBeer.com for a list of Virginia breweries that are worth checking out. Just this past April, Virginia won the highest percentage of medals (8 medals out of its 54 entries) at the Craft Brewers Conference.
If you’re trying to transition from wine to beer, try these ales as recommended by DC Beer Week co-founder Teddy Folkman and Againn beverage director Elli Benchimol.
Support your local brewery by keeping up with national and state issues. And having a drink, of course.
Cheers!
-Aisha Salazar
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Tuesday, March 17th, 2009
Every St. Paddy’s Day, we draw straws to delegate that dreaded responsibility of designated driver. This year, why not pick a pub that’s near the rail? We’ve selected five bars located just steps away from the Orange, Yellow and Blue lines to host your drinking festivies. Choose from all-out benders to refined imbibing. Or go on a Metro-powered pub crawl to all five.
After you’ve had your fill of green beer and crooned along to enough versus of Wild Rover, just teeter back to the station and ride home.
2915 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA 22201; 703-248-9888; www.rira.com
Where to get off the train: Clarendon (Orange Line)
What to Drink: What do you get when you mix equal parts Guinness and champagne? An unexpectedly delicious Black Velvet, one of many Guinness mixers available on Rira’s extensive bevvy menu.
What to Eat: Ordering the popular Beef ‘n’ Guinness Stew means you don’t even have to halt your alcohol consumption when you’re chewing.
Entertainment: Live music from 3:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m., followed by more live music from 9:30 p.m. till closing. The late-night act is Dr. FU, a D.C. rock cover band that performed at Shamrock Fest.
Cover: Starts at $5 at 5:00 p.m.
What time to catch the last train: If heading toward New Carrollton, make sure to get back to the station by 11:42 p.m. If heading toward Vienna, make it there by 12:17 a.m.
2051 Wilson Blvd. Arlington, VA 22201; 703-525-3600; http://www.irelandsfourcourts.com/
Where to get off the train: Court House (Orange Line)
What to Drink: Try the Four Courts amber ale home brew fresh off the tap. Satellite bars will be set up all over the restaurant, so you’ll never have to teeter too far for the next pint.
What to Eat: After the traditional Irish lunch ends at 2 p.m. the dining areas will be mostly cleared of tables to make way for the live bands. Hungry folks can order off a hearty, but limited menu: choice of either Irish Lamb Stew or Irish Sausages.
Entertainment: Five live bands performing on the main stage as well as in the heated outdoor tent. Featured acts include Pete Baker, Sandford Markley and Brad Pugh of Practically Einstein.
Cover: $10
What time to catch the last train: If heading toward New Carrollton, make sure to get back to the station by 11:44 p.m. If heading toward Vienna, make it there by 12:15 a.m.
1301 S. Joyce St., Arlington, VA 22202; 703-415-4420; http://www.sineirishpub.com/
Where to get off the train: Pentagon City (Blue and Yellow Lines)
What to Drink: Try the exclusive, locally brewed Sine Irish red, made with real imported Irish hops. Mini bars around the pub will serve $3 pints of green beers.
What to Eat: Starting 3 p.m., fill up on a $14 buffet of Irish favorites like fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, corned beef and cabbage and desserts.
Entertainment: Nothing other than the kind of entertainment that ensues when you get a bunch of drunken people together at a pub.
Cover: None!
What time to catch the last train:
Blue Line: If heading toward Largo Town Center, make sure to get back to the station by 11:51 p.m. If heading toward Franconia-Springfield, make it there by 12:22 a.m.
Yellow Line: If heading toward Fort Totten, make sure to get back to the station by 11:48 p.m. If heading toward Huntington, make it there by 12:06 a.m.
4238 Wilson Blvd., #1256, Arlington, VA 22203; 703-516-7688; http://www.rockbottom.com/
Where to get off the train: Ballston (Orange Line)
What to Drink: Celebrate with $3 shooters and $4.95 pints of house and seasonal brews (with $2 refills)
What to Eat: Full menu of burgers, pizzas, pastas and steaks available.
Entertainment: Did we mention $2 beer refills?
Cover: None!
What time to catch the last train:
If heading toward New Carrollton, make sure to get back to the station by 11:39 p.m. If heading toward Vienna, make it there by 12:20 a.m.
1120 King St., Alexandria, VA 22314; 703-684-9669; http://www.vermilionrestaurant.com/
Where to get off the train: King Street (Blue and Yellow)
What to Drink: Happy hour specials from 4:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m., including deals on beer, wine and specialty cocktails. Not to be missed is their extensive selection of whiskeys (28 at last count).
What to Eat: $4 small plates, including artichoke dip, beer dip, French fries, roasted olives and hushpuppies.
Entertainment: A luxurious respite from St. Paddy’s Day madness where you can sip a fine Irish whiskey in peace. Also, live music by Kirk Phillips from the Baltimore band, Radio Caroline.
Cover: None!
What time to catch the last train:
Blue Line: If heading toward Franconia Springfield, get to the station by 11:56 (station closes at midnight). If heading toward Largo Town Center, make it there by 11:41 p.m.
Yellow Line: If heading toward Fort Totten, make sure to get back to the station by 11:37 p.m. If heading toward Huntington, make it there by 12:35 a.m.
– Christina Lee
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, February 20th, 2009
Following the logic that if at first you don’t succeed, try, try, try, try, try, try again, entrepreneur James Justice has unretired the Virginia Brewing Company name (he says he’s the seventh such proprietor to do so since the company was founded in 1889) in order to open a brewery/beer hall in the heart of historic Winchester.
Justice led this latest VBC relaunch by opening up the entertainment arm (they currently feature live acts and deejays on weekends) and expects to get the full-fledged brewing operation underway this spring. He’s tapped ex-Harpoon brew master John Hovermale to develop his forthcoming craft brew line, which is expected to include: pale ale, American wheat, grolsch and a yet-to-be-determined brew.
Justice is also tweaking the entire menu, after which he’ll most likely boost dining hours.—WR
580 N. Cameron St., Winchester; 540-754-1564; www.virginiabrewingcompany.com. Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining, Friday through Saturday.
(February 2009)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, December 5th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

Courtesy Dogfish Head
American microbrewers will pour into the nation’s capital this May for an inaugural beer and food event tastefully dubbed, SAVOR.
According to a Brewers Association spokeswoman, the two-day tasting festival will cap this year’s American Craft Beer Week and will feature regional favorites from more than 40 craft breweries—the BA utilized a lottery system to tap member breweries from across the country for this national showcase—as well as educational seminars and other events.
Local participants include Virginia natives Starr Hill (Crozet) and Williamsburg AleWerks (Williamsburg), with Clipper City (Maryland), Dogfish Head (Delaware), Iron Hill, Legacy, Stoudts and Tröegs (all from Pennsylvania) rounding out the Mid-Atlantic roster.
Assorted food pairings have been plucked from Lucy Saunders’ “The Best of American Beer & Food” (www.beertown.org/books/beer_food.html) and will run the gamut from savory (artisan cheeses, carrot-ginger soup) to sweet (chili-infused dark chocolates, fruit trifles). “When we illustrate the compatibility of craft beer with food, it raises the image of beer, which is one of our goals,” the BA spokeswoman said.
Tickets are available online, and the plan is to limit each of the three tasting sessions to 700 attendees.
To learn more about SAVOR, American Craft Beer Week or craft beers in general, visit: www.beertown.org.
(March 2008)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 1st, 2008
Boffo Beer Bars
By Warren Rojas / Photography by Anastasia Chernyavsky
“Buy you a beer?”
A familiar phrase most often directed at single women, sullen buddies or, sometimes, absolute strangers, a cold brew beats a sweaty handshake for preferred greeting in our book.
Like-minded brethren should get acquainted with the local microbreweries and beer bars featured within—respites where the beer flows like water (carbonated, alcoholic water, mind you). Several of the beer havens have even received national acclaim at the annual Great American Beer Festival (www.beertown.org/events/gabf/index.htm), snagging all manner of medals with their prize-winning libations.
We’ll drink to that.
Vintage 50
Leesburg; 703-777-2169; www.vintage50.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Sunday; Sunday brunch.

A Tasty thai chicken surprise
Launching a new brewery is hard work. Of course, it never hurts to have a seasoned brewer, a carefully groomed clientele and some of the best bar munchies around.
Vintage 50 arrived in Leesburg last winter and has been building a loyal fan base ever since. The Y-shaped establishment features a main lounge to the left with a semi-private dining room to the right. A raised seating area to the rear of the main dining area is perfect for quiet dinners, while an outdoor patio covered with comfy sofas draws crowds on sunny afternoons.
Veteran brew master Bill Madden claims to have approximately 30-40 beer recipes in his brewing arsenal, but is always experimenting with new flavors and techniques. The restaurant offers up to 10 beers on tap, including their core beers—Catoctin Kolsch (mustard yellow with a hoppy kick), Point of Rocks Pale Ale (solid brew), their Extra Special Bitter, Red Ale (full-bodied beer) and a porter, dry stout or schwarzbier—various seasonal offerings and at least one cask-conditioned selection (rotates regularly).
Local favorites include the hefeweizen, Catoctin Kolsch, Point of Rocks Pale Ale and the Wee Heavy Ale (muddy brown with a mildly sweet flavor). Madden also plans to unveil a Keller bier (traditional German recipe) produced in conjunction with another local brewer later this year.
An order of pan-fried pierogies brings potato dumplings smothered with caramelized onions and scallions and a frosty sour cream-and-chive spread. Paninis always hit the spot, including a bold N.Y.-style turkey-bacon-Swiss creation (terrific) and a sun-dried tomato-portobello mushroom pairing. A monstrous Thai salad features cubed chicken, starchy lotus root slices and crunchy cellophane noodles piled atop greens hiding a well of savory peanut sauce (delicious).
Rock Bottom Brewery
Ballston; 703-516-7688; www.rockbottom.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.

Martha’s Light is all right
Butch and Sundance. Yin and yang. Beer and shopping.
That last one may seem like a stretch to some of you. But after umpteen hours of window-shopping for “the perfect—”, a cold beer is often a relationship saver.
Rock Bottom brew master Chris Rafferty says they regularly offer six house beers—the full RB beer catalog includes the house standards, a dozen seasonal drafts (routinely unveiled the third Thursday of every month) and a handful of porter/stout clones—on tap, plus the seasonals and at least one cask-conditioned selection (served warm, sans carbonation; manually pumped out via a beer engine).
At full capacity, Rafferty says they could produce about 3,000 barrels per year, though he says they produced closer to 2,000 in 2006. Rafferty brews anywhere from four to six batches per week in their eight-barrel brew house (1 barrel = 31 gallons = 2 half kegs). He lists Mother Martha’s Kolsch (traditional, easy-drinking light beer) as the biggest mover, with the El Jefe Hefeweizen, Blue Line Pale Ale (bronze bomber with some spicy-fruit undertones) and Radio Towers Red (classic ale) coming in a close second.
“Folks are getting savvy to craft beers … but the majority of people’s tastes remained geared toward lighter beers,” he says of his clientele, adding, “We have a very diverse drinking crowd here.”
Solid nourishment can be had via the brawny bourbonzola burger, a deluxe patty covered with crumbled Gorgonzola (wakes your whole mouth up), batter-fried onion straws and a side of Jim Beam marinade. The brewer’s club shows the softer side of the traditional triple-decker by layering the now familiar ham-turkey-bacon creation between buttery halves of warm ciabbata bread. Or lose yourself in a sea of pasta shells mixed with melted cheddar, shredded chicken and a baked-on Parmesan crust (home-style heaven).
Tuscarora Mill
Leesburg; 703-771-9300; www.tuskies.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch.

Tuscarora Mill
There never appears to be a shortage of exotic beers or familiar faces at Tuscarora Mill, a Leesburg dining landmark that prides itself on its gourmet brews and innovative cuisine.
The multi-story restaurant features a horseshoe-shaped bar with an adjoining lounge for those most interested in liquid refreshment, while traditional diners are accommodated in the dining rooms sprinkled throughout the renovated mill.
General manager Sean Mallone says they offer over 20 craft beers on tap—with new beers rotated semimonthly—and almost another three dozen bottled selections. Some of the most popular sellers include: Allagash White (corn-yellow appearance, creamy texture), Fuller’s London Pride (loaded with hoppy vigor), Lagunitas Censored Ale or just about anything from Pennsylvania’s Victory Brewing Company. Local brands include the house Tuskies’ Ale (flavorful brew with some residual sweetness), which is produced by neighboring Old Dominion Brewing Company (see page 109 for full review) and Olde Richmond Red (full-bodied flavor) produced by the St. George Brewing Company in Hampton.
Meanwhile, servers share their beer acumen freely. During one visit, a bartender paused to scour the current beer roster before handing over the menu to ensure it was up to date, while another waiter offered customers recommendations based on similar tastes (“if you like Miller Lite, try…”) another.
Much like the beer list, the menu seems to hop all over the globe. Beef tenderloin fondue summons tender sirloin tips escorted by a frothy batch of melted Gorgonzola (fabulous). The salmon club brings compact cubes of grilled and smoked salmon interspersed with avocado, lobster mayonnaise and ripe tomatoes. Barbecue empanadas are a golden brown bridge between two cultures, rolling zesty beef into a fried flour shell surrounded by a thrilling chipotle cream sauce, with soothing coleslaw on one side and pico de gallo on the other.
Capitol City Brewing Company
Shirlington; 703-578-3888; www.capcitybrew.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; weekend brunch.
What’s beer without fun? So seems to be the philosophy behind Capitol City Brewing Company, a local microbrewery best known for its cheeky brand names and novel drink recipes.
The first thing you notice upon entering the Shirlington outpost are the gleaming copper tanks propped up behind the main bar. Director of brewing operations Mike McCarthy says they typically feature between five and eight beers on tap, including four standards—Capitol Kolsch (pleasantly bitter, light-style beer), Amber Waves Ale (caramel-colored workhorse; silver medal—2006 GABF), Pale Rider Ale (brassy introduction, spicy finish) and Prohibition Porter are available at every Cap City—plus various seasonal drafts. Notable specialty pours include Fuel (a surprisingly sweet, caffeine-powered porter; gold medal—2006 GABF) and “10” (stellar but potent anniversary trippel-double).
McCarthy says seasonal beers are changed almost weekly, adding that most selections are exhausted within two weeks at the latest. He estimates they produced roughly 2,400 barrels in 2006, or about 400 kegs per month—half of which are shared with one of their D.C. siblings. According to McCarthy, the top sellers include: Capitol Kolsch, Amber Waves and the various hefewiezens. Meanwhile, McCarthy recently rolled out an experimental weiss bier pils—a marriage of pilsner (53 percent) and hefeweizen (47 percent) that is supposed to yield a hoppy brew with fruity undertones—just because he was looking for a challenge.
The menu, however, sticks with more traditional flavors. A complimentary bowl of soft pretzels with snappy horseradish mustard gets your attention immediately. The roadhouse barbecue plate brings meaty bones of spicy-sweet pork ribs (thick, with plenty of flavor and fatty underbelly) flanked by a grilled chicken breast, fries and a corn bread muffin. Soft flour tortillas filled with shredded, Cuban-style pork, grilled onions and peppers, fresh cilantro and a great mojo-mayonnaise shake things up a bit.
Sweetwater Tavern
Multiple NoVa locations; www.greatamericanrestaurants.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open daily for lunch and dinner.
In terms of enduring popularity, the Great American Restaurant group could easily change its name to “Guaranteed Afternoon Revenue” without missing a beat.
The powerhouse dining chain seems to have a restaurant for just about every occasion, including the multiplying Sweetwater Tavern microbreweries (currently in Centreville, Falls Church and Sterling). According to GAR head brewer Nick Funnell, each Sweetwater Tavern always has at least five beers on tap—including a light (Naked River Low Carb Light is slightly bitter, yet still refreshing), a pale ale (Great American Pale Ale delivers rich fruity flavor) and three seasonal drafts (Pale Face Wheat has a bright banana glow and a pinch of spice, while the Giddy Up Stout could give Starbucks a run for its money).
Funnell said at full capacity, each restaurant could produce roughly 3,000 barrels, but notes that due to the variety of beers and the disparate brewing times for each—from two weeks for the ales to eight weeks for others—they average about 1,400 barrels annually. He listed the Great American Restaurants Octoberfest (set for release in September), Ghost Town Pumpkin Ale (poised for a mid-October debut) and High Desert Imperial Stout as big-ticket specialty brews. Meanwhile, their Wits End Ale (silver), Wild West Fest Lager (bronze) and Iron Horse Lager (bronze) were all big winners at the 2006 GABF.
Heavy-duty snackers enjoy fried tortillas filled with chicken, corn and beans, all accompanied by creamy guacamole. A grilled chicken and havarti sandwich plies the snappy duo with fresh basil, vinaigrette and buttery icebox bread. The ale-soaked drunken rib eye summons a terrifically marbled cut of beef—chargrilled steak is melt-in-your-mouth good, with a pleasantly salty-caramelized veneer and big, beefy flavor in every bite—flanked by a fully loaded baked potato and a mound of sauteed mushrooms.
Rustico
Del Ray; 703-224-5051; www.rusticorestaurant.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, Tuesday through Sunday, dinner daily.

Morales’ mosaics are edible art
Au revoir, sommeliers?
Wine stewards may not yet be cowering. But if other chefs embrace beer-based cooking as passionately as Rustico’s Frank Morales, the noble grapes may one day have to yield to fermented grains.
The barley-and-hops branch of the local Neighborhood Restaurant Group collective, Rustico features about 30 draft beers, 300 bottles and at least one cask ale selection at any given time. “We’re definitely building a niche for ourselves,” general manager Chris Schaller claims, touting their epic beer selection as “the driving force—the reputation—of the place.”
While Schaller says many locals remain devoted to mainstream beers like Pabst Blue Ribbon or Miller Lite, the restaurant has plenty to whet your whistle. Noteworthy selections include: Harviestoun Bitter & Twisted (golden hue, easy drinking flavor), Gouden Carolus D’or (muddy complexion, cinnamony character) and Heavy Seas Small Craft Warning (rich red brew with plenty of character).
Morales said he thoroughly enjoyed his crash course in beer upon arriving at the restaurant from D.C.’s Zola. He noted that staff is taught to inquire about patrons’ beer tastes and then offer a traditional recommendation as well as a “bold” suggestion. “We’re trying to engage guests and explore,” he said.
That sense of exploration has helped fuel the success of Morales’ signature mosaic trios, themed dining medleys (all under $20) that can be upgraded with corresponding beer pairings (all under $10). Yeasty calzones come filled with ricotta and marjoram (ultra cheesy), fennel-spiked lamb sausage (robust flavor) and salmon with cream cheese and chives (grand). A delightful sliders combo rolls out bacon-wrapped veal (tres juicy), lamb meatloaf (melts in your mouth) and a playful shrimp burger (good).
Morales is already plotting eight-course mosaic tasting menus—featuring trios of spontaneous seasonal creations—to be served at the restaurant’s kitchen-front counter. “That’s the fun we’ll have there,” he pledges.
Old Dominion Brewing Company
Ashburn; 703-724-9100; www.olddominion.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Though the business recently changed hands, staff at the Old Dominion Brewpub remain confident their most successful craft beers will survive the current corporate shake-up.
An exurban beer mecca nestled firmly in the Verizon-AOL corridor, Old Dominion was absorbed earlier this spring by Anheuser-Busch and Fordham Brewing Company to become part of their joint Coastal Brewing Company venture. Management remains tight-lipped about the future of the Old Dominion beer catalog. But brewpub personnel seemed pretty sure many of their signature brews will still be around once the re-organizational dust settles.
Till then, patrons can sample the homemade beers at the brewpub’s giant, horseshoe-shaped bar or in the laid-back main dining room. The brewpub offers circa two dozen homemade lagers, ales and specialty brews available as 12-ounce drafts, 16-ounce “true pints” or in sampler flights. Noteworthy selections include: Millennium Ale (actually a fabulously aggressive barley wine; released each spring), Dominion Porter (shoe leather-brown with hints of sweet chocolate), Hard Times Lager (clean, refreshing flavor that lends itself to endurance drinking; brewed for the eponymous local chili parlors) and the Dominion Ale (slightly hoppy but mostly smooth).
Naturally, the diverse beers complement many of the featured foodstuffs.
The meatacular Dominion Lager chili combines ground beef seasoned to just below scalding—heat doesn’t stop till a few minutes after you drop the spoon—with chopped onions and shredded cheddar (a scoop of sour cream would be most beneficial in this case). Irish nachos summon thick-cut spuds caked with melted cheese, giant bits of bacon and diced scallions; add any leftover chili (if you dare). A respectable chicken fajita cheese steak is chock full of savory chicken, sliced peppers, onions and cheese (tasty), although the turkey-cheddar melt on grilled, buttered sourdough gets the nod thanks to a bonus swab of chutney (sweet, but far too scant).
(September 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, November 21st, 2008
By Natalie Bovis-Nelsen (AKA: TheLiquidMuse.com)

Claire Barrett Photography.com
In honor of sweltering August heat, icy brews are the focus this month! Whether barbecuing in the backyard, or simply cooking up some fun with friends, beer quenches every thirst.
Panache
This is a popular refreshment in Southwestern Europe, where temperatures soar under the Mediterranean sun.
1 small, whole lime
2 parts beer
1 1/2 parts lemon-lime soda
1 lemon wedge
Pour beer, then soda into a tall, chilled glass. Squeeze juice from lemon wedge into the glass, then drop it in.
Mexican Michelada
South of the border, this drink is the ultimate “pelo del perro” or hair of the dog!
2 parts beer
2 shots tomato (or Calamato juice)
Dash of each: soy, Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce
1/2 ounce freshly squeezed lemon
1 shot tequila
Leafy cilantro sprig
Pour beer, juices and condiments into a tall, chilled glass. Garnish with cilantro.
(August 2007)