By Warren Rojas / Photography by Jonathan Timmes

We know that the omnipresent/omnidirectional congestion clogging our local roads makes getting back into the car to search out a great meal seem almost totally unbearable. ¶ No mas. ¶ Let the formerly District-bound restaurateurs—Michel Richard has made the move; so have a slew of gourmet pizza heavies—come to us. ¶ But they better get here quick, before the blossoming band of homegrown talent—Balls-y beer kitchens? We got’em. Envelope-pushing ethnic eateries? Get in line.—corners the entire discerning-yet-determined-to-stay-close-to-home dining market.

BEST NEW: Italian Redux
Ozzie’s Corner Italian {$$}
11880 Grand Commons Ave., Fairfax; 571-321-8000; www.greatamericanrestaurants.com/ozzies
Open for lunch and dinner daily, late-night dining Tuesday through Saturday.

If killing customers with kindness ever became a felony, the Ozzie’s crew would blow all their tips on bail money.

It may simply be that as the new recruit on the Great American Restaurants squad everyone at Ozzie’s remains ever mindful of their organization’s commitment to customer service. But I choose to believe that the restaurant’s famiglia-first bent—that wall-length mural screams “Godfather”—compels servers to treat patrons as one of their own.

After showing us to a table, one hostess volunteered to fetch desired sections of the newspaper. Another server offered up a booming “good afternoon!” and held wide the door for me during a trip to the facilities.

Slow-roasted chicken arrives nestled amid savory, mini meatballs and tender cannellini beans simmered to perfection with onions, garlic, tomatoes and spinach.

Luxurious porcini cream sauce envelops a 14-ounce Strauss Farms veal chop carefully trimmed of extraneous fat. A side of smashed red potatoes proves riveting, the spuds fried to an oily crisp and perfumed with rosemary.

Once the Chianti-poached prunes and candied pecans disappeared, so did any interest in a mountainous mascarpone confection. The cocoa-covered tiramisu ho ho, on the other hand, kept finding ebullient takers down to the very last forkful.

BEST NEW: Expectations Slayer
Pizzeria Orso {$$}
400 S. Maple Ave., Falls Church; 703-226-3460; www.pizzeriaorso.com
Open for lunch, dinner Tuesday through Sunday, late-night dining Friday and Saturday.

Baked eggs bask in tomato-y bliss

Having earned a reputation as the poster boy for Neapolitan pies during his whirlwind tour of the local pizzaverse, Edan MacQuaid remains the man everyone expects to see wielding the peel when they stroll into Orso.

So, there he toils—wearing a roughly 3- x 2-foot trench in front of the blazing brick oven, methodically shepherding pies from oven to plate in 80-odd-second intervals before beginning the process anew with another flour-y disc.

Sorry, chef. We wouldn’t have it any other way.

Thea, his wife and Orso’s general manager, twirls about the establishment like an airborne pizza, tending to guests and administrative duties with boundless energy and infectious charm. And staff pitches in by keeping patrons abreast of daily specials ranging from Marsala-steamed clams to fennel-farro soup to pineapple-topped pies.

Oversized panuozzos put traditional sandwiches to shame, plying fans of foldable snacking with combinations like capicola, caramelized onions and arugula or roasted peppers, mushrooms and shaved pecorino (a salty-smoky tour de force).

A mixture of heavy cream, fragrant basil and gooey provolone almost makes us swear off tomato sauce entirely, the aforementioned trio compelling us to finish off every last bite of dairy-deluged crust.

House-made cannoli yield crunchy shells flush with chocolate chip-mascarpone (good), citrusy cream (better) or pistachio (best).

BEST NEW: Strip Mall Sanctuary
Viet Taste {$}
6763 Wilson Blvd., #6A, Falls Church; 703-531-0011; www.viettaste.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Clay pot excavators will be handsomely rewarded.

Though tucked into the bowels of the sprawling Eden Center, Viet Taste’s aesthetic charms put it head and shoulders above many of its neighboring competitors.

Sage green walls set a forestal tone, an outdoors-y illusion completed by the flocks of wide-eyed birds and shadowy butterflies perpetually frozen in mid-flutter amid illustrative perennials, free-floating phone lines and rows of 2-D windows.

The menu is predominantly Vietnamese but borrows freely from other Asian cultures (pad Thai, Korean short ribs).

Eastern ex-pats seem to favor roiling hot pots (fish, combo, oxtail) and assorted delicacies—vegetables stir-fried in pig’s blood, pork heart soup—while most Westerners tend to gravitate toward Vietnamese touchstones (seafood-stuffed crepes, grilled proteins).

Baby clams, lemon, hot peppers and onions pummel the palate with piquancy, their coordinated assault seamlessly abetted by a pile of peppery sesame crackers.

Frog legs falter tragically when sautéed (the meat is bland and unappealing), but triumphantly bounce back post-frying (deliciously juicy).

Seasoned pork—the handsomely grilled ham sweetened by soy and emblazoned with grill marks—calls to mind crispy, smoked bacon after a leisurely dip in maple syrup.

Clay pots runneth over with scorched rice, crunchy pea pods, baked quail eggs, five spice-packed sausages and caramelized meats (chicken, pork, beef).

BEST NEW: International Nosh
Twisted Vines {$}
2803 Columbia Pike, Arlington; 571-482-8581; www.twisted-vines.com
Open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday, late-night dining Tuesday through Saturday, brunch Sunday.

What’s a frazzled mommy to do when she’s got wine on her mind and a fussy toddler buzzing about?

Beeline for Twisted Vines’ stroller happy hour, of course.

“The first time, we had 30 moms with kids. It was a zoo,” one barkeep says of their mommy-and-me mixers.

Attendees can cool their heels in rotating wine flights (white, red, sparkling) or seasonal pours (mulled wine, sangria). The master wine list touts broad categories (fruity whites, crisp whites, fruit-forward reds, spicy reds) rather than vintages, and tends to favor global risk-takers (Fondo Antico Grillo Parlante, Arizona Stronghold Nachise, Stark-Condé Three Pines Cabernet Sauvignon) and gutsy locals (Thibaut-Janisson Blanc de Chardonnay, Sugarleaf Vineyards Petit Verdot, Mountfair Vineyards Belated).

And while adults should keep the grown-up grape juice to themselves, there’s no reason kids should be precluded from enjoying a tasty nibble or two.

Sliced-for-sharing stromboli reveals robust bites of spicy soppressatta, sweet peppers, grassy leeks and salty cheese.

Gorgonzola-filled meatballs bounce from Italy to Latin America with the help of smoky-sweet, roasted corn-tomato salsa.

The croque monsieur is shaken up as well, its Texas toast-sized slices soaked through in nutmeg- and mustard seed-laced béchamel, while honey sweetened ham and nutty Swiss make nice inside.

BEST NEW: Self-Contained Snack
The Pure Pasty Co. {$}
128-C Church St., Vienna; 703-255-7147; www.purepasty.com
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.

Any aspiring restaurateurs worried about going too “niche” should ring Pure Pasty founder Mike Burgess first chance they get.

The British expat figured his fellow countrymen would be the main ones lining up for fresh baked Cornish pastries. But his fledgling business is attracting all kinds of unexpected admirers.

“It draws a huge contingent of people from Michigan, especially the Upper Peninsula,” Burgess notes. “But there are also Australians and New Zealanders turning up.”

Bully for him.

The menu turns on baked goods, including a half-dozen signature pasties (traditional and chicken Provencal lead the pack), sausage rolls—all of which are available straight from the oven or prepackaged for home baking—as well as seasonal soups and salads.

Sausage rolls prove exponentially decadent, the surrounding dough three times as crunchy as a croissant and at least twice as buttery. But, ultimately, it’s just a giant pig in a blanket.

A traditional pasty provides more depth, rewarding the mouth with steaming bites of peppery beef, savory potatoes and racy onions. Most importantly, at no time did the baked shell sag, crumble or remotely falter.

Meanwhile, minibar/Cheesetique alumnus Joshua Andrus is already brainstorming new pasty recipes (cheese and onion, pork and apple, lamb and mint). And a roaming pasty cart is in the works.

BEST NEW: East-West Imaginarium
Elephant Jumps {$}
8110-A Arlington Blvd., Falls Church; 703-942-6600; www.elephantjumps.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Baked shrimp toast is big on flavor

If America is indeed a grand melting pot, it’s visionaries like Songtham Pinyolaksana who help stir it.

The Thai expat opened Elephant Jumps in Merrifield to zero fanfare, steadily building his clientele with the help of familiar temptations (pad Thai, mango sticky rice) and soothing environs (intricate wood cuttings adorn cream walls, inverted parasols keep light in).

After delving into the compact but comprehensive carte, I’m happy to report that hidden gems abound. Including several dishes others might categorize as fusion, but this hired mouth considers pure fun.

Fried watercress gives the usually mundane green a tempura makeover that wraps each leaf in puffy, fried batter. “That’s the good stuff,” Pinyolaksana assures me as he delivers the mass of what looks like herbaceous funnel cake—though any dessert confusion should be quashed by the arresting, lime-chile dipping sauce that rides shotgun.

The basil burger is a total misnomer, summoning instead shaved steak—smothered in fragrant herbs, minced hot peppers and whole basil leaves—nestled with a toasted croissant. The buttery canvass and zesty payload battle it out in my mouth, transmuting each bite into a tug of war between fire and fat. And I’m only too happy to get caught in the culinary crosshairs.

BEST NEW: Rib Tickler
Moley Brothers Q-Pit {$$}
9-E Catoctin Circle SW, Leesburg; 703-777-8632; www.moleybrothers.com
Open for lunch, dinner Tuesday through Sunday.

Don’t let all the random sports paraphernalia plastered on the walls—for the record, we support the Stephen Strasburg tribute 100 percent, are 50/50 on the Dwayne Wade pic and couldn’t care less about the Lakers—fool you. Moley’s is not a sports bar that dabbles in barbecue.

This is a bonafide barbecue joint with frosty beverages to boot.

Though somewhat funky, as evidenced by tables splashed with surreal animal prints (splotchy reds and yellows), Moley’s is a family-run place seeking to attract more of the same. And they seem to be succeeding. Extended families occupy the booths most nights, with everyone from 20-something couples to ‘cue-sharing seniors rounding out the attendance.

The kitchen sticks with pit barbecue basics (pork and beef ribs, brisket, pulled pork, smoked chicken) and presents everything accordingly. So expect your sides in plastic cups, your mains parked on plain white bread and your meals served in wax paper-lined plastic baskets.

Beef ribs are huge, each strip of meltingly tender meat dripping with homemade barbecue sauce stirred by onions, molasses, tomatoes and smoke. Pork ribs were surprisingly lean, and subsequently much drier than their bovine counterparts. A Carolina-style sauce restored some pep, blasting the bones with vinegar, crushed red pepper and mustard.

BEST NEW: Stew U.
Uncle Liu’s Hot Pot {$}
2972 Gallows Road, Falls Church; 703-560-6868
Open for dinner daily.

Thanks for making me feel so … WASP-y,” one companion sputtered while frantically mopping her brow as I greedily slurped the liquid fire a-stewing before us at Uncle’s Liu’s Hot Pot.

Whereas sibling establishment Hong Kong Palace made its name with secret menus, Liu’s stakes its claim to fame right there in the title.

Each hot pot—those bubbling, churning gateways of create-your-own-adventure dining—begins with simmering chicken broth. Patrons then customize each bowl by plopping in the priced-per-portion additives of their choosing, a supporting cast that flows from “Green Acres” (mushrooms, bean sprouts, cabbage) to “Fear Factor” (duck feet, fish heads, beef tendon). That’s not to mention all the gratis condiments (diced garlic, cilantro, red tofu sauce, oyster sauce).

Each cauldron can also be partiontioned into spicy (pre-stocked with whole and crushed chile peppers) and mild (seasoned with onions) halves, assuaging those who prefer to ease into hot potting.

Fried pork arrives cold. But the breaded bites emerge saturated with broth to their meaty core. Enoki mushrooms blossom into de facto noodles, their incredibly absorbent stalks fanning out across the bowl.

And don’t worry too much about the complainer. She got to cross “consuming pork blood” off her bucket list by the end of our meal.

BEST NEW: Authentic German
The Bavarian Chef {$$$}
200 Lafayette Blvd., Fredericksburg; 540-656-2101; www.thebavarianchef.com
Open for lunch Saturday and Sunday, dinner Tuesday through Sunday.

Ich bin sehr aufgeregt, hier zu sein.

Never have I seen a restaurant patron so happy to get the boot.

Granted, it was a glass boot, brimming with dark, hoppy beer, which had been ushered to the table by a comely fraulein in a colorful, form-fitting bodice.

Such are the charms of Fredericksburg’s The Bavarian Chef.

Executive chef/owner Jerome Thalwitz—his parents founded the original Bavarian Chef in neighboring Madison nearly 40 years ago—and sous chef James Steele keep traditional German cooking as their baseline but also experiment with local ingredients (venison pate with cranberry-horseradish sauce) and global mash-ups (roast rockfish surfs atop spaetzle).

Composing a complete bite of liebercasen—a platter comprising savory homemade sausage loaf, vinegary potato salad and a silky yolk-filled egg—took some doing but proved well worth the effort.

A seductive chardonnay-mango sauce chews through spice-crusted shark steak, transforming the muscular predator into a sponge full of tropical fruit. Potato pancakes serve as the perfect backstop, adding crunch to each bite of tender fish.

Braised pork tumbles from shank to surrounding wine sauce with a flick of the tine, the mouthwatering meat joined down below by peppery sausage stuffing and fried onion straws.

Braised cabbage—sour, tangy and sweet all at once—is almost entrée-worthy.

BEST NEW: Maine Event
Ford’s Fish Shack {$$}
44260 Ice Rink Plaza #101, Ashburn; 571-918-4092; www.fordsfishshack.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Spiced lobster lounges atop pesto-covered chips

I’m always fascinated when new restaurants appear and then you can’t remember what life was like before them.

Something tells me that’s how Ashburnites feel about Ford’s.

Chef/owner Tony Stafford appears to have struck a chord with frustrated seafood lovers, displaced Northeasterners or some combination thereof, because seats are scarce at this nautically themed newcomer, even mid-week.

The crowd skews older, mostly 50-plus-year-old couples, and tends to include more nuclear families than not. But then, so does Ashburn. That being said, the bungalow-esque bar readily accommodates those who prefer to grab a quick bite and craft brew and then split.

Seasonal specials ran the gamut from grilled arctic char over pappardelle to chicken pot pie to pumpkin cheesecake. But if you are here, chances are you’re angling for lobster.

You’ll get a good deal of the sweet stuff in Maine chips, hand-cut spuds tossed with basil pesto—which puts nuttiness into play—tender morsels of spiced lobster and bubbly blobs of piquant blue cheese.

The signature lobster roll features succulent claw and tail meat heaped into a buttered bun and dressed with a very refreshing, celery-and tarragon-powered slaw.

Fancy blueberry pies fall flat (less presentation, more fruit) while gooey whoopie pies typically rise to the occasion.

BEST NEW: Belgian Oasis
Cock & Bowl {$$}
302 Poplar Alley, Occoquan; 703-494-1180; www.cockandbowl.com
Open for lunch Thursday through Saturday, dinner Wednesday through Saturday, brunch Sunday.

“This is our beer café. So, you have the best view in the house,” Cock & Bowl co-founder Jacquie Lopez asserts as she drapes herself alongside the fully stocked beverage cooler like a game show model.

Survey says: Beer me.

Every inch of the modest eatery has been devoted to beer appreciation, from walls plastered with vintage promotional posters to shelves piled high with branded glassware.

Although most employees appear willing and able to discuss their favorite pours, formal recommendations seem to flow almost exclusively from resident beer geek Allen Fournier—a Trappist-brewing sage stuck in a slacker’s body (standard uniform: Operation Ivy hoodie, Dickies’ slacks). The restaurant fields nearly five dozen craft brews ranging from familiar (Stella Artois, Orval) to far out (Houblon Chouffe Dobbelen IPA Trippel, Corsendonk Pater), all categorized according to intensity (fruit, white, pale, amber, dark).

Food specials swing from croque monsieur to coq au vin, while seafood and sweets rule day-to-day dining.

Steamed mussels gather strength from a supporting cast of applewood-smoked bacon, wilted spinach, zesty red onions and splashy tomatoes. Chimay-braised short ribs ooze boozy splendor that puts plain gravy to shame. Homemade waffles delight beneath blankets of warm caramel and crunchy pecan brittle.

BEST NEW: Social Climber
Pupatella {$}
5104 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 571-312-7230; www.pupatella.com
Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday.

From its graffiti mural to its bus-your-own-table mentality, this scrappy pie-slinger screams DIY success story.

Rather than scouting street corners, food cart vets (see What the Truck, pg. 40) Enzo Alargame and Anastaysia Laufenberg now spend their days parked in front of the imported brick oven— “Built in Naples from volcanic ash from Mount Vesuvius,” the pair trumpets—at the heart of their brick-and-mortar shop.

The menu features just over a dozen specialty pies including dueling margheritas—“real” (read: buffalo mozzarella) vs. “simple”—appetizers (fried Brussels sprouts flanked by green apple, anchovy-olive bites) and desserts (tiramisu, Nutella-swabbed pizzas).

The real margherita is floppier than expected; the crust crackles in spots, but folds as a rule. The real stars are the San Marzano tomato-based sauce, delivering acid and tang, and ovals of glistening mozzarella pooled on every slice. The sauce-less filleti is charred but still spongy, its “naked” dough adorned by fragrant basil, piquant garlic and sweet cherry tomatoes.

Algarme loads specialty dough with milky ricotta, shredded mozzarella and thinly shaved prosciutto, and gingerly lowers it into the deep fryer. The ensuing feast—crunchy shell, molten cheese, sultry ham—is reason alone to consider investing in a FryDaddy.

Sadly, homemade donuts remain MIA since the move.

BEST NEW: Toppings Titan
BGR The Burger Joint {$}
Multiple NoVA locations; www.bgrtheburgerjoint.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Another towering BGR masterpiece

“It’s my first time here. I’m very excited,” a burger enthusiast informed the cashier in the run-up to ultimately losing his BGR cherry.

Was it good for you, too?

Though owner Mark Bucher took his time getting to know the area (D.C. and Maryland were early adopters), Virginia is rapidly becoming his largest market (three stores and counting). And that’s no small feat, considering the wealth—some might even go so far as to say, glut—of gourmet burger shops across the NoVA landscape.

BGR’s recipe for success is simple enough: Start with quality ingredients (proprietary buns, aged beef, robust cheeses), add seasonal accents (lobster claw burgers come summer, pumpkin pie shakes in the fall, a Russian dressing-and “rogue”-fort “Sarah Palin” burger—just because) and sprinkle liberally with kitsch (tabletop mosaics of pop culture icons, TVs locked on VH1 Classic).

Beer-battered onion rings delight the inner child, while Parmesan-dusted and balsamic-splashed asparagus sate adults done with deep-fried sides.

A gourmet patty melt arrives matted with rich truffles, mellowing Swiss and zippy Thousand Island dressing. The standard turkey burger is anything but, inserting mushrooms and gorgonzola into the burger and finishing everything off with sautéed red onions and zesty mayo.

BEST NEW: Culinary Camouflage
Michel {$$$$}
1700 Tysons Blvd., McLean; 703-744-3999; www.michelrichardva.com
Open for breakfast and lunch daily, dinner Monday through Saturday.

A quick peek at Michel’s blink-and-you’ll-miss-it bar scene .

Is Michel a gustatory game-changer? That remains to be seen.

What we do know is that cheflebrity Michel Richard’s propensity for enchanting guests with edible whimsy and gastronomic wonders remains stronger than ever.

Suit-clad gents and well-coiffed ladies seem to rule this suburban roost. Still, plenty of patrons appear happy to let their hair/guard down when the dessert carte is presented—even at lunch (guess it’s never too early for a Richard-inspired treat).

The kitchen excels at delivering both steak and sizzle—though most meals gleefully tilt toward the things-are-not-necessarily-what-they-seem school of design.

Straight shooters can feast upon gourmet burgers predicated upon from-scratch brioche buns, tomato confit and top-tier proteins (lobster, lamb, beef). Frites are a natural fit. But I’d splurge on Brussels sprouts—mouthwatering greens inundated with two kinds of fat (butter, bacon).

Deconstructionists should enjoy unraveling the inner workings of onion carbonara, featuring piquant, bulb-based noodles tossed with bacon, cream and shaved Parmesan, pasty-clad “porcupine” shrimp replete with phyllo spines and chardonnay-braised bean bedding or eel carpaccio (drizzled in seductive soy-ginger sauce).

Can’t-miss closers include Richard’s signature Kit Kat bars (hazelnut- and powdered cocoa-powerhouse), fetching “snowmen” (ice cream-filled meringue with marzipan accessories) and dazzling, flame-spewing chocolate cakes (party on!).

BEST NEW: Sweets Talker
Northside Social {$$}
3211 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-465-0145; www.northsidesocialarlington.com
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, late-night dining Wednesday through Saturday.

Amish ingenuity, at your fingertips

While Northside Social enjoys access to many of the unctuous proteins and elegant cheeses spun out by sibling establishments Liberty Tavern and Lyon Hall, make no mistake: This place is pastry chef Rob Valencia’s house.

Sugar and sustenance are synonymous here, as early birds fill up on gourmet coffee—think: Sumatran, Peruvian blends; embellishments include: honey, simple syrup, cane sugar and ground cinnamon—and fresh-baked pastries while night owls indulge in craft brews, boutique wines (most bottles reside in the $20-$30 zone) and tantalizing crostinis (prosciutto and pear mostarda, anyone?)

One terrifically sweet-and-sour eye-opener features coffee cake infiltrated by spicy vanilla and brushed with lip-smacking lemon glaze. Crunchy almonds and juicy strawberries battled for our affections in a summerific scone.

Apple turnovers dwarf your average gyro, encasing caramelized apples in a pocket of ultra buttery dough studded with glimmering sugar crystals.

Crumbled starlight mints invaded Valencia’s intensely fudgy brownies during the holidays, producing chocolaty bars harboring a wintry mix of peppermint.

Craving savory? Give all your tasting zones a workout by biting into an Amish chicken salad boasting coarsely chopped chicken bathed in herby green goddess dressing, strikingly sweet apricots and tangy pickled beets.

BEST NEW: Sausage Fest
Lyon Hall {$$}
3100 Washington Blvd., Arlington, 703-741-7636; www.lyonhallarlington.com
Open for lunch Monday through Friday, dinner daily, late-night dining Friday and Saturday, brunch Saturday and Sunday.

While bending the elbow is always a pleasure at Lyon Hall (love me some Blood, Sweat and Tears), the main attraction has got to be all that glorious meat.

Executive chef Liam LaCivita and chef de cuisine Andy Bennett make no bones about their affinity for flesh, fielding a full catalog of house-made sausages (wursts, kielbasas, puddings), charcuterie (pates, rilettes, cured meats) and mains (steaks, shanks, bellies) plucked from across the protein spectrum (rabbit, veal, duck).

“I’d recommend it just for this,” one companion announces while foisting a plump lamb sausage—interwoven with cumin, paprika and garlic—to his lips. His center-of-the-plate fixation is well warranted, as the accompanying fingerling potato salad mostly plays possum.

A short rib frankfurter pits the extra savory link (bravo!) against spicy pub mustard and tangy, house-made sauerkraut. The winner: you.

Shaved speck and fresh sage punch up a plate of potato-prune dumplings inundated in butter, heavy cream and heavenly ubriaco. “I call it our version of mac and cheese,” one server says of the gourmet garden party.

And lest anyone think seafood gets the short shrift, keep an eye out for the beet-cured arctic char. The fish is flush with natural sweetness and escorted by wildly crunchy potato cakes.

BEST NEW: Grape Escape
Parallel Wine Bistro {$$}
43135 Broadlands Center Plaza, Ashburn; 703-858-0077; www.parallelwinebistro.com
Open for lunch Saturday, dinner daily, brunch Sunday.

A no-pressure playground for the wine set, Parallel affords guests the opportunity to sip and swirl to their hearts content without much badgering from the laidback staff.

Because who wants to sweat choosing a relaxing beverage?

Rotating flights boast fairly transparent threads (oysters, Italiano, pinots). The master wine list bops from region to region (Australia, Chile, Washington state), favoring boutique producers (Patagonian cabernet sauvignon, Kenneth Volk Malvasia Bianca, Spanish priorat) while also paying big boys (Cakebread, Barrel 27) and locals (North Gate Vineyard Viognier, Fabbioli Cellars Rose, Winery at La Grange Meritage) their due.

Most of the action, however, takes place at the 32 automated wine dispensers. Printed descriptions are glib (“crisp, citrus”; “velvety, dark”; “cherry, finesse”), but staff use all the tools at their disposal—direct lines of questioning, personal anecdotes and even free samples—to help connect the dots between personal preferences and unknown pours.

BLT crostinis don’t skimp on the bacon, but allow ripe tomatoes, full of juice and spice, to lead the flavor assault (quite the refreshing change).

Seared pork belly may get top billing in the cassoulet. But it was the supporting cast of slow-cooked celery, cannellini beans and leeks that pushed my hand to scrape the bottom of the bowl for more.

BEST NEW: Hops Spot
Mad Fox Brewery {$$}
444 W. Broad St., Suite 1, Falls Church; 703-942-6840; www.madfoxbrewing.com
Open for lunch Monday through Saturday, dinner and late-night dining daily, brunch Sunday.

Stuffed meatloaf and Brussels sprouts

Unlike Larry Craig, I don’t socialize in restrooms (much). But several pints of Mad Fox brews later, fate decided this was happening:

Total Stranger (washing hands): How ya doing?

Me (drying hands): Fine. You?

TS (big smile): I’m in a brewpub! Can’t complain!

The childish glee expressed by my clearly extroverted washroom buddy is totally understandable, given the dearth of full-service breweries in the NoVA ‘burbs.

Founder Bill Madden commands a beverage program focused on seasonal drafts, cask-conditioned brews and off-menu specials (just ask). Our favorites include summery IPAs that sting the lips with lemon and tangerine, malty altbiers clothed in chocolate and spice, and pitch-black porters worthy of your local coffeehouse.

Agraria alumnus Russell Cunningham has proven adept at marrying Madden’s bubbling contributions to his comfort food-y carte, injecting beer into the cuisine where possible, all while building in complementary flavor profiles throughout.

Spice-rubbed pork belly wades in a pool of honey-molasses, the fork-tender lobe conveying profound richness while mini spoonbread answers with additional sweet.

House-made brisket smacks of vinegar, black pepper and molasses, the porter barbecue-sauced beef tempered by fresh cucumber.

Piercing the shimmering egg atop a carbonara pie sparks a race to inhale the ham-, onion- and tomato-laden landscape before the glorious yolk dissipates.

BEST NEW: Boundaries Tester
Da Moim {$$}
7106 Columbia Pike, Annandale; 703-354-3211; www.damoimrestaurant.com
Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining Tuesday through Sunday.

Playing with expectations is what Da Moim is all about.

An off-the-beaten path respite for those perhaps burned out on tabletop grilling and crowded karaoke jams, the decor here pays tribute to more Anglo-friendly entertainment (The Beatles, Audrey Hepburn, the Rat Pack).

But the menu is where the true artistry lies.

Korean touchstones, from traditional ssam to fiery vegetable stews, abound. The more adventurous, however, can leap headlong into a fusion carnival drawing from Asian, European and Nuevo Latino influences.

Caramelized short ribs invade flour tortillas, commingling there with shredded cheddar, tomatoes and sour cream. I approached these tacos with trepidation; sure the sweet meat and sharp dairy would butt heads, but I found the clash quite complementary. Hot sauce further enhances the experience, with the distilled vinegar and preserved peppers counterbalancing the dulcet beef.

An intercontinental quesadilla weaves together spicy pork, more dairy and caramelized onions, the thin veil of melted cheddar, stir-fried till sugary onions and cooling sour cream working in concert to alleviate the stinging pig.

Double-fried chicken yields crispy bird shrouded in tangy-sweet, ginger-soy sauce. While it’s neither as crunchy nor incendiary as neighboring iterations, it was served, as promised, in under 30 minutes (unheard of at BonChon).

BEST NEW: Multicultural Mash-Up
Mokomandy {$$}
20789 Great Falls Plaza, #176, Sterling; 571-313-0505; www.mokomandy.com
Open for dinner daily.

Prepare to be tempted by Mokomandy’s deviled eggs.

The next time a dining pal asks if there’s anything new worth checking out, tell’em they’ve just got to try Korjun … Cajean?

Just ferry them over to Mokomandy and let chef Daniel Stevens broaden your gustatory horizons.

The stylish upstart pays homage to the competing, but also curiously complementary, cuisines—daddy is Korean, mom a Southern belle—founder Thaddeus Kim experienced around the family dinner table.

Mind you, they don’t just throw kimchi on everything and call it a day. But cross-pollination is not entirely verboten.

Deviled eggs are fiercely mousse-y/mustard-y. But make no mistake: These beauties are really just another delivery vehicle for lusty bacon.

Seared scallops lead a knife-and-fork assault featuring house-made English muffins fried in pepper jelly butter, hot house tomato slices (ravishing) and lemon-y oil excised from the signature remoulade.

Spires of dried pork reach skyward from a bowl of fiery jambalaya stoked by smoky Andouille sausage, cayenne-laced grains of rice and saucy peppers.

Fried egg and house-made kimchi, which is plenty pungent but could certainly stand to be hotter, join wild boar in a good-to-the-very-bottom rice bowl.

Pie in This Guy

In ‘Za House
Before our Best New Restaurants Guide
Friend: “Let’s grab a slice.”
You: The icy grip of terror and indecisiveness causes you to curl up in the fetal position and wail uncontrollably for hours on end.

After consulting our new pizza cheat sheet
Friend: “Let’s grab a slice.”
You: “You’ll have to be WAY more specific about your munching priorities, kemosabe. Better yet, just follow me.” (strides off triumphantly)

COAL-FIRED
Tagolio Pizzeria & Enoteca

GLUTEN-FREE
Fire Works Pizzeria & Bar
Pizzaiolo Café on Fern
Rustico

WOOD-FIRED
Fire Works Pizzeria & Bar
Pizzeria Orso
Pizzeria Paradiso
Pupatella
RedRocks Pizza Napoletana

SINGLE SLICES
Flippin’ Pizza
Pizza Autentica
Sal’s NY Bar & Grille

DELIVERY
Brick House Pizzeria
Flippin’ Pizza
Pizzaiolo Café on Fern
Sal’s NY Bar & Grille
Tagolio Pizzeria & Enoteca
NY-style
Del Ray Pizzeria
Flippin’ Pizza
Mad Fox Brewing Company
Pizzaiolo Café on Fern
Pizza Autentica
Sal’s NY Bar & Grille

NEAPOLITAN-STYLE
Mad Fox Brewing Company
Pizzaiolo Café on Fern
Pizzeria Orso
Pizzeria Paradiso
Pupatella
RedRocks Pizza Napoletana

Brick House Pizzeria / Winchester
Del Ray Pizzeria / Alexandria
Fire Works Pizzeria & Bar / Arlington
Flippin’ Pizza / Multiple NoVA locations
Mad Fox Brewing Company / Falls Church
Pizzaiolo Café on Fern / Alexandria
Pizza Autentica / Arlington
Pizzeria Orso / Falls Church
Pizzeria Paradiso / Alexandria
Pupatella / Arlington
RedRocks Pizza Napoletana / Alexandria
Rustico / Arlington
Sal’s NY Bar & Grille / Leesburg
Tagolio Pizzeria & Enoteca / Arlington

(March 2011)

By Warren Rojas  / Photography by Hana Jung and Jonathan Timmes

While the rest of the economy cooled, red hot hospitality ventures (seems like entire blocks of tempting alternatives sprouted in Reston) continued making their way onto the dining rolls in 2008.

One might think simply tracking all the incoming restaurants to our ever-expanding area—never mind actually visiting, tasting, whittling down and evaluating them all over several months—could be a considered a full-time job.

But a food critic’s work, it seems, is never really done.

This year’s Best New Restaurants list does not, however, merely placate the PR-driven properties you’ve probably already seen/heard/read about in countless other local media. As we are most proud of the undiscovered gems (Authentic Iraqi comfort food in Oakton? Been there. Seasonally-inspired, tapas-like cuisine in Leesburg? Done that.) we strive to uncover right in our collective backyard.

BEST NEW SUSHI SHOWMANSHIP
Sakana
128 W. Maple Ave., Vienna; 703-319-1300
Average entree: Under 12 ($). Open for lunch, Monday through Saturday, dinner daily.

“Do you want to see them move?” the Sakana chef asks as he fishes a pair of live surf clams from their container. He then slaps the orange bivalves on his cutting board—a shocking jolt that forces the sluggish sea creatures to perform on cue.

Seconds later, the still-wriggling specimens are before me. Each clam flexes one last time as I bite down, a momentary spasm that could be mistaken for toughness, but quickly cedes chewy flesh.

Now that’s fresh nigiri.

A peek at the Sakana sushi bar—the restaurant has changed ownership since its days as Kansai, but retains its Japanese bent—reveals a rainbow of fresh ingredients, including: forest green avocados, glistening fish roes, golden mango slices and mottled quail eggs.

Daily specials favor curiosity seekers, featuring the likes of: red carpet roll (salmon, avocado, applesauce) and giant clam.

California sea urchin delivers more of a buttery-livery quality than the promised sweetness, but there’s no denying its memorable flavor.

Monkey roll summons a tuna-avocado-roe collaboration crowned with fresh banana and drizzled in kiwi sauce (a slightly creamy, mostly sweet concoction)—a dulcet sushi the chef suggests “makes a great dessert” (I can see that).

BEST NEW LOCAVORE RETREAT
The Wine Kitchen
7 S. King St., Leesburg; 703-777-9463; www.thewinekitchen.com
Average entree: Under 12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Sunday.

After years of bouncing around the Virginia countryside (Ashby Inn, Goodstone Inn), executive chef Christopher Carey seems content to let his hair down at Leesburg’s fledgling Wine Kitchen.

“It’s obviously much more laid-back and relaxed,” Carey says, suggesting that country inns are much more about decorum and tradition. “Here, I get to play a little bit.”

The shoebox-sized spot (less than a dozen tables) conveys a come-as-you-are vibe embraced by locals (think: ladies in workout gear and chunky designer watches) and curious outlet shoppers alike.

The fully approachable wine list is split into far-reaching flights (A Riesling to Be, The Hills of Italy, The Plains of Spain), including a static nod to regional superstars (Local Flavors).

The menu changes bi-monthly, but Carey expects to retain customer favorites (Parisian gnocchi, uber-Gruyere croque monsieur) in one capacity or another.

Pray he keeps the pork belly Caesar as well, otherwise you’ll miss grandiose slices of peppered pork belly—the core is buttery soft, while the outer rim sports a ruddy crust—draped atop stiff romaine ribs. A sauteed mushroom-and-poached egg pairing dazzles the salt receptors, while vinaigrette soaked-frissee cuts through the yolky richness, and fried polenta adds crunch.

BEST NEW DRAFT DISPENSARY
Capital Ale House
917 Caroline St., Fredericksburg; 540-371-2337; www.capitalalehouse.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily, brunch Sunday.

Forget about mindlessly chomping on beer nuts and stale pretzels. Capital Ale House’s inventive dishes (Rogue-flavored wings, gouda-topped mussels) and fierce aoilis demand your full attention. Photography by Hana Jung

It’s fine and dandy to tempt beer lovers with the promise of dozens of rotating drafts and hundreds more bottles. The real question is: How do you keep all those delicious brews cold?

Capital Ale House simply ices down the bar.

Regulars at the always-packed brew haven have probably noticed the narrow, frost-covered rail that runs the length of the entire counter—a runway of refreshment that keeps any gourmet suds cool ad infinitum without watering down the end product (sheer genius).

Bartenders keep patrons posted on incoming brews (the Fredericksburg shop switches up its line up every Thursday) and personal favorites, pouring samples with absolute impunity  while sharing knowledge about esoteric beer styles (from gluten-free Belgian dubbles to traditional Scottish gruits).

Meanwhile, the menu celebrates traditional pub fare, but with gourmet flair.

Chicken wings reverberate with flavor—their glistening skin glazed over with spices (chili powder) and beer (Rogue Chipotle ale), while a chunky blue cheese-dill sauce works to douse the flames. Cream-soaked mussels are rained upon with bacon and gouda, the former injecting a smoky saltiness to every bite while the latter captures each glossy shell in a creamy web.

BEST NEW EXURBAN SMOKEHOUSE
Bluz Brother’s Bar-B-Que & Grill
43150 Broadlands Center Plaza, #194, Ashburn; 703-858-9499; www.bluzbrothersbbqandgrill.com
Average entree: Under 12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily.

“I want you guys to run Clyde’s [Willow Creek Farm] out of town,” one Bluz Brother’s patron vents to the barkeep at this nascent Broadlands barbecue pit, arguing that the neighboring Willow Creek farm is far too “snooty” and “overpriced” for her taste.

Price and comfort are non-issues at Bluz, a come-as-you-are sanctum specializing in happy-hour drinks and made-to-order barbecue plates bordering on the absurd.

An all-in burger heaps savory pulled pork, fried onion straws and melted cheddar onto flame-broiled beef. “It’s almost unmanageable,” one companion notes as he tries to get a literal grip on the barbecue-drenched (thick with tomatoes, nominal heat) behemoth.

The Wrecker offers little relief, yielding a mountain of savory brisket (smacks of smoke and au jus) parked atop caraway-laced sausage, more fried onions and tangy barbecue sauce.

Snackers should enjoy the so-called pork wings, juicy mini pork shanks slathered in honey-barbecue sauce (appropriately sweet, but with some residual spice). Just make sure to prod staff for the by-request-only hot sauce—a pumpkin-colored concoction forged from crushed red peppers.

“It’s not just vinegar and cayenne, like every place else,” manager Jeremy Chagnon says of their homemade flame bath.

BEST NEW MEDLEY MENTALITY
Jackson’s Mighty Fine Food & Lucky Lounge
11927 Democracy Drive, Reston; 703-437-0800; www.greatamericanrestaurants.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Tributes to Great American’s former chef, Bill Jackson, seem to inhabit every square inch of the flashy Reston property. View Jackson’s grinning mug in the Rockwell-esque mural, colorful epitaphs on a central message board or his WaPo obit hanging by the bar. Photography by Hana Jung

Up until now, breaking with tradition has seemed taboo within the Great American Restaurants family. But they took a gamble with the catch-all Jackson’s—and, methinks, it’s paying off in spades.

In true GAR fashion, the Reston outpost features a little something for everyone, including: indoor/outdoor bars (exterior heaters keep smokers toasty; snazzy purple halo projects an aura of cool inside), posthumous tributes to GAR toque Bill Jackson (that’s him peeking back at you from the Little Rascal-esque mural, while his many strengths—and shortcomings—are laundry-listed on an opposing pegboard) and even some experimental cuisines: Macadamia nut sushi, anyone?

Deviled eggs were fast favorites, revealing mustardy oeufs sprinkled with spiced pecans and flanked by sugar-cured bacon (woody-sweet stunners). An Asian-themed burger—automatically cooked to medium-well “because that’s how they have the best texture, flavor,” according to one server—summons succulent duck bolstered by zesty shiitake ketchup (molasses-tinged mushrooms), all parked atop a brioche bun. A funkified marshmallow-meringue pie pours face-puckering lemon tart into a graham-cracker crust, then reaches skyward with briskly whisked meringue artfully blowtorched into waves of caramelized splendor (a pool of raspberry coulis helps short circuit any citrus overload).

BEST NEW SURREPTITIOUS CHARCUTERIE
Thirsty Bernie Sports Bar & Grill
2163 N. Glebe Road, Arlington; 703-248-9300; www.thirstybernie.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for dinner daily, brunch weekends.

Thirtsy Bernie takes bar food up a few notches with its riesling- and golden raisin-powered pierogies. Photography by Jonathan Timmes

Strip-mall sports bars aren’t usually known for their rilletes, saucisson sec or homemade bratwurst. Then again, most sports bars didn’t snag wandering chef-cum-charcuterie merchant Jamie Stachowski to help launch their concept.

Though Stachowski decamped last fall, general manager Lucius Polk says Thirsty Bernie continues to feature the luxuriant pates, cured meats and palate-pleasing sausages customers have come to know and love. Chef Andy Cieslowski, a Sam and Harry’s alumnus, has put his own stamp on the menu via a traditional goulash and crab cake sandwich.

Whenever available, jump on the charcuterie, as Stachowski is a whiz when it comes to kielbasa (seared bulbs of Polish sausage are sublime), country pate (herb-spiked liver sporting the faintest ring of fat possible) and everything in between. Their hot pastrami sandwich sports pickled red onions, piles of pepper-cured brisket (fantastic) and melted Swiss pressed between nutty, whole-grain pumpernickel. Plain old pierogies go gourmet via a tangy farmer’s cheese filling, and seductive riesling-brown butter sauce pleasantly goosed by golden raisins (well played).

Meanwhile, Polk says they’re putting the finishing touches on an outdoor patio and plan to expand their import beer lines.

BEST NEW LUNCHTIME LIBERATOR
Tigris Grill
2946-P Chain Bridge Road, Oakton; 703-255-5950
Average entree: Under 12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily.

“Are you ready?” owner Mowafak Ashagra asks one boomer couple as they stare intently at the Tigris Grill menu board.

“Too many good things to choose from,” they respond in unison, with the husband explaining away their delayed reaction by noting, “normally we have to go a long distance to get this type of food.”

Likewise, Ashagra covered a great deal of distance to serve his native cuisine.

The Iraqi transplant has garnered a cult following amid ethnic-dining enthusiasts by serving up assorted specialty dishes (knobby lamb shanks appear most weekends) and Persian comfort foods (citrus-soaked salads, charcoal-fired kebabs).

A steal of a lunch deal makes sampling easy, offering up a four-course feast (soup, salad, fresh-baked pita and your choice of entrees) for under $6.

Traditional Iraqi soup brings lentils simmered down to near mush, yet subtly accented with chicken broth (communicates little more than the requisite amount of salt) and minced onions (savory). Salmon is escorted across flame until its pinkish hue graduates to sunrise orange, the underlying meat left pick-apart tender. Grilled steak (terrific) muscles its way into a straight-from-the-tandoor pita packed with ripe tomatoes, leafy mint, red onions and yogurt sauce.

BEST NEW LATIN SWEETHEART
Don Churro Cafe
13905-B Metrotech Drive, Chantilly; 703-378-1211; www.donchurrocafe.com
Average entree: Under $13 to $20 ($$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

Savory empanadas help keep hunger at bay; Don Churro’s protein-packed saltenas cater to hearty appetities. Photography by Jonathan Timmes

Naming yourself after a sugary street food renowned the world over is a bold move. But Don Churro founder Fausto Garces and his brood (various children and at least one son-in-law have stakes in the restaurant) make good on the memorable pastry work.

Fausto loves to spin yarns about his native Ecuador, proudly displaying a striking painting of Quito, the mountain-ringed capital of his homeland, across the front of the shop.

While main dishes can be hit or miss (pique lo macho bows to aesthetics rather than beef; pollo saltado lacks personality), sugary splendor abounds.

Saltenas bearing sweet dough around a savory purse of ground beef and plump raisins moved one Bolivian compatriot to inquire if he could cart home a dozen (or so) to his family. Homemade churros piped full of manjar blanco (caramel-like filling cultivated from condensed milk) or gooey, delicious Nutella are sprinkled with powdered sugar for good measure.

Elsewhere, a thin skin of seductive passion fruit recasts ubiquitous cheesecake as an island favorite (tart fruit shakes up the dense, deli staple, sans all the syrup employed by others).

BEST NEW COMMUNITY CODDLER
Astor Mediterranean
2300 N. Pershing St., Arlington; 703-465-2306; www.astorfoods.com
Average entree: Under $12 ($). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.

Catering to clients is job No. 1 in the hospitality industry. But Arlington’s Astor takes accommodation to a whole new level.

The predominantly carryout operation mimics its Adams Morgan parent, serving up the requisite kebabs and Mediterranean staples (spicy hummus, chill tabbouleh) dished out by its many contemporaries.

But where others might scale back the menu or overreach (hookah lounge? Internet cafe?) during these trying economic times, Astor continues to build upon that which its patrons actually desire.

Pining for made-to-order steak? Half-pound (at least) rib eyes are now available daily for less than $12. Craving fresh seafood? Baked salmon and tilapia (another customer request-cum-menu standard) ride in on fragrant chickpeas and rice.

Their Greek salad is defined more by its crunchtacular core (robust beets, refreshing cucumber) than the avalanche of cured cheeses favored by less imaginative kitchens, while the option to add a skewered meat of your choice ups the protein ante. Egyptian pizza drops zesty jalapenos, tender eggplant and juicy tomatoes into a minefield of tangy feta (this flatbread is head and shoulders above your average garden pie).

Fred Flintstone-sized beef ribs are familiarly spiced (rubbed with sumac and cinnamon), but get finished with sweet barbecue sauce (dramatic change-up).

BEST NEW WHIMSICAL EXPOSITION
Present
6678 Arlington Blvd., Falls Church; 703-531-1881; www.presentcuisine.com
Average entree: Under 12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Photography by Hana Jung

I don’t think I’m telling tales out of school by revealing that Vietnamese restaurants are a dime a dozen in Falls Church.

Which makes Present’s foresight at investing in gorgeous environs and top-notch talent (acclaimed Vietnamese toque Luong Tran) that much more impressive.

The serene suburban newcomer immediately puts patrons at ease via a gurgling decorative waterfall, hand-cut orchids and nattily dressed servers who fawn over each guest as if they’d been visiting for years. The menu outlines just over six dozen dishes, all christened with wildly poetic titles (Resting Steer on Haystack, Sunning in the Tropics, Calling the Mountain Dewdrops).

“They’re all such beautiful names,” one first timer shares with her server.

One doubly delicious number summons a roasted duck leg (burnished with five-spice), that’s then to be self-shredded and returned to a sweet-sour soup laden with vermicelli noodles, roast pork, Chinese broccoli, mushrooms, basil, shaved mango (brings the tart) and Sriracha. Mango-covered tuna starts strong (deep-fried fish, julienned fruit play to each others’ strengths) but eventually sputters (hearty steak could use some light saucing). Lemongrass chicken spits fire courtesy of a charred garlic and crushed red pepper crust (heavenly).

BEST NEW CONTEMPORARY CREPERIE
Fontaine Caffe & Creperie
119 S. Royal St., Alexandria; 703-535-8151; www.fontainecaffe.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, brunch weekends.

The ratatouille-filled Parisienne. Photography by Hana Jung

Modeled after Europe’s breezy cafes, Fontaine provides sanctuary for those who favor lighter meals and curious libations.

Chef/owner Kyong Yi whips up nearly a dozen buckwheat-wrapped creations, ranging from the ordinary (steak and potatoes) to the operatic (caramelized apples, Calvados, frothy vanilla ice cream).

The Berliner delivers rounds of robust bratwurst (ghost white but plenty filling) tossed with tomatoes and onions, all buried beneath curried steak fries (doesn’t get much heartier). Blocks of potent feta and mint-spiked yogurt goose the sauteed spinach- and lentil-stuffed Moroccan (well done).

Sweets run the gamut. But sweet peaches draped in vanilla and topped with sliced almonds (inject a bit of crunch into an otherwise squishy adventure) have yet to disappoint.

Though wines and import beers abound, French ciders best complement the cuisine (pear pours skew sour, while apple sparklers can get a little musty).

Meanwhile, Yi has recently beefed up her non-crepe options by adding steak and frites and roasted chicken to the regular lineup. Other changes are less exciting. Like the fact that manager/sister Sunyi is poised to marry and relocate to Sweden this summer (hej da!).

BEST NEW OFFICE PARK OASIS
Panache
1753 Pinnacle Drive, McLean; 703-748-1919; www.panacherestaurant.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner and late-night dining, Monday through Saturday.

All things in moderation—except for bold flavors—could be Panache’s culinary mantra, as evidenced by their smashing short rib risotto and grilled Norwegian salmon. Photography by Hana Jung

Not sure which is tougher: battling Tysons’ traffic just to get to the overly congested highways each evening or swimming through the sea of humanity that overtakes Panache’s lounge come 6 o’clock.

I can, however, tell you which is more rewarding.

This contemporary meze palace (think: white leather, bright lights) takes its cues from its downtown D.C. parent, keeping the booze and nightlife center stage and regarding the budding lunch traffic as gravy. That means shoulder-to-shoulder crowds at the two bars—most nights, the bar looks like a “Sex and the City” shoot, with martini-toting ladies itching to let their hair down after another 9-to-5—but easily accessible seats in the minimalist-minded main dining room.

The menu focuses on Mediterranean flavors. And most entrees are gladly downsized for easy snacking (bravo).

Lush spinach and sweet ricotta embrace beneath fluffy crepes (decadent alfredo sauce surrounds). Parmesan- and jumbo porcini-packed risotto (potent mushrooms and salty cheese bond perfectly) is further double teamed by crisp pancetta and shred-with-your-fork short ribs. Elsewhere, spice-rubbed salmon and hand-carved artichoke hearts draw strength from a sassy pesto-cream sauce (dials back excess salt, enhances complementary spices).

BEST NEW SUBURBAN DAZZLER
PassionFish
11960 Democracy Drive, Reston; 703-230-3474; www.passionfishreston.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.

The PassionFish folks pulled out all the stops whilst assembling their nautically themed newcomer, investing in everything from fish-tailed flatware to bubbly lighting arrays. Photography by Hana Jung

There’s no arguing with PassionFish’s burgeoning success (packed to the gills, steady foot traffic).

But as a dining critic, nitpicking is still my wont.

The sleek seafood purveyor transports patrons to an underwater wonderland characterized by a wave-like bar, effervescent light fixtures and ice-covered marine delicacies. Too bad the ongoing condominiumification of Reston thrusts guests back into the real world (construction projects mar the view).

Staff are bright (cycle through specials with ease), bubbly (big smiles, infectious enthusiasm) and, at times, painfully honest.

“I don’t eat oysters, so I’m not the best person to ask,” bar manager Christopher Wells sheepishly admits when I inquire about the daily raw bar specials (though he later amends his statement to heap praise on their po’boy).

Chilled yellowtail piggybacks on fresh grapefruit, which is then doused in balsamic and crowned with raw jalapeno (citric base, fiery crunch, wriggly protein creep into every bite). The veneer of cloying soy draped across the so-called Angry Chef roll (smoked eel, avocado, sweet glaze) bumped heads with the title (maybe switch it to the Kiss-and-Make-Up roll?).

Elsewhere, big briny oysters receive a welcome jolt from a homemade blend of red wine vinegar, raw onion and minced garlic.

BEST NEW BURGER BABYLON
Ray’s Hell Burger
1713 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-841-0001
Average entree: Under 12 ($). Open for lunch, Tuesday through Sunday, dinner daily.

From the no-fee ATM to the complimentary fruit—juice-laden watermelon last summer, cheery orange smiles all winter—it’s clear that owner Michael Landrum has paved the road to Hell Burger with good inventions.

This neighborhood burger shop-cum-D.C.-Metro dining destination delights its devotees with jumbo burgers (10 ounces of steakhouse-quality beef) and gourmet embellishments (multiple cooking styles from plain to au poivre and artisan cheeses from around the globe) all served amid vintage horror movie posters (“Freaks,” “Mantis in Lace”) and food-handling charts detailing beef made easy and foodservice cuts.

The traditional Mack is everything a cheeseburger should be: relentlessly juicy, smothered in melted cheddar—“We use three slices of American cheese to cover our burger,” Landrum boasts of the cultured dairy deluge included in each order—and dutifully moistened with secret sauce. The Big Punisher is more about controlled burn, its chipotle-brushed patty fed more fuel by fire starters like pepperjack cheese, sliced jalapenos and homemade picanha sauce (stoplight-green herb paste that’s irrefutably red hot).

Putting out the flames simply requires a classic float composed of equal parts fizzy Old Dominion root beer and rich-as-can-be Moorenko’s ice cream.

BEST NEW SAMPLING SANCTUARY
The Wine House
3950 University Drive, Fairfax; 703-352-2211; www.winehouseonline.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.

The brainchild of New Zealand grape buff Michael Pearce, The Wine House provides ample opportunities for local oenophiles to circle the globe, one glass at a time.

The shop’s cluster of cozy tables and the coveted stools surrounding the half pentagon-shaped bar are often claimed by snack-happy girlfriends and venturesome couples out for a bite/a bottle/a pint of something a little different.

The wine stacks are overflowing with worldly gems (Spanish albariños, Italian brachetto d’acqui), while the coolers regularly house serious brews (Weihenstephaner hefeweizen, Lagunitas Censored ale). Featured pours tend to hover around $10 a glass, and often showcase stunners like the 2006 Layer Cake Primitivo (bold Zinfandel awash in ripe red fruit and spice).

“It never stays around,” one barkeep says of the unexpectedly hot seller, noting patrons carry it away by the caseload.

The a la carte menu follows a multi-course format, touting seasonal creations like rack of lamb with creamed leeks and roasted venison.

A charcuterie plate (prosciutto was best, salami a close second) escorted by toasted baguettes and crisp cornichons begs to be shared (generous slate of playful snacks). Sun-dried cherry bread pudding (caked with white chocolate and whipped cream) invites experimentation with brawny ports.

BEST NEW RISK TAKER
Sea Pearl
8191 Strawberry Lane, Suite 2, Falls Church; 703-372-5161; www.seapearlrestaurant.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$).Open for lunch and dinner daily, late-night dining, Thursday through Saturday, brunch Sunday.

Miso-glazed sea bass and baby bok choy and Szechuan peppered steak proves Sea Pearl can handle surf or turf equally adeptly. Photography by Hana Jung

Agreeing to anchor an entirely new retail/housing complex while the rest of the area undergoes municipally ordained radical reconstruction is daunting enough. But vying against relatives—particularly when your competition is the regionally revered Four Sisters—for hospitality traffic is truly audacious.

Confidence is high chef/owner Sly Liao and wife Ly (nee Lai) are up to the challenge.

The spacious main dining room whispers its marine theme (net-like placemats, shimmering strings of mother or pearl seashells), while the low-lying couches in the lobby-like lounge and airy bar setup speak volumes to veteran cocktail hounds.

“The menu is short, but everything on it is delicious,” one friendly young server suggests.

Sadly, an Asian-style barbecue sandwich stumbles, bearing bunk pork (over-sauced, underdeveloped) and lackluster support (gluey bun, dim relish).

The kitchen redeems itself with roasted sea bass basking in a double helping of heat via a miso-jalapeno medley (piquant rings cling to the sticky soybean shellac), while baby bok choy and jasmine rice offer moral support. Filet mignon is showered in phenomenally zesty Szechuan chilies, cracked pepper pods and lush soy sauce (silky texture, volatile spice), and arrives flanked by a savory hash of shiitake mushrooms and steamed vegetables.

BEST NEW LOW-KEY PIE-SLINGER
Pizzaiolo Café & Bar
3112 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria; 703-837-0666; www.cafepizzaiolo.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.

Pizzaiolo’s plain-sounding white pizza. Photography by Jonathan Timmes

There are those who might argue that we’re reaching the saturation point for artisan pizzas in this area.

But while they’re busy flapping their gums, I’ll be wrapping my lips around the cracker-thin crusts laden with an embarrassment of fresh toppings proudly turned out at Del Ray’s Pizzaiolo Café.

This offshoot of Crystal City’s original Café Pizzaiolo seems to have settled in quite comfortably as both quirky neighborhood watering hole and de facto gourmet pizza paradise (does it get any better than 2-for-1 pizza Tuesdays?).

The horseshoe-shaped bar is rarely vacant, and staff keeps the crowd guessing with scattershot playlists that ricochet from Flight of the Conchords to Tha Alkaholis to Bob Marley.

Musical tastes might vary. But these well-assembled pies are proven consensus-builders.

Their basic white is a vision of bubbling ricotta, torn spinach and unblemished dough, while each bite reveals flashes of garlic, salty parmesan and smoked mozzarella goodness. The Liese displays a fabulous crust (scorched back, audible crunch) decorated with righteous toppings (forceful sun-dried tomato bits, tender chicken). The Diavolo piles on the heat with crumbled Italian sausage, zesty cheese and roasted red peppers (hurts so good).

BEST NEW FAR EAST FUSION
Yaku
1900 Clarendon Blvd., Arlington; 703-248-0844; www.latinconcepts.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for dinner and late-night dining daily.

Though it’s morphed from a chifa concept into more of owner Mauricio Fraga-Rosenfeld’s prototypical cocktail lounges in mere months, executive chef Ismael Otarola V remains committed to keeping Yaku’s cooking as interesting as possible.

For those who’ve never been chifa-hopping in Lima (some of my fondest memories of Peru include nights crowded round lazy Susans with extended family), the experience melds Chinese preparations (fried rice, assorted noodles, soy sauce) with indigenous Peruvian ingredients.

Yaku trades glass and steel for the hanging lanterns and paper screens of yore, but does nod to the Andean culture via the Warhol-esque prints of rural Peruvians scattered around the restaurant.

Deep-fried yucca fritters drizzled in traditional huancaina sauce (a spicy homemade cheese sauce) have become so popular, one fellow diner instructed her table mates to double up on the appetizer before anyone had a chance to crack their menus. Aji de gallina wontons reveal crispy pastries populated by zesty shredded chicken. Five-spice-caked short ribs dissolve with each pass of the fork, the resulting mass of meat being bound solely by a compelling soy barbecue sauce.

BEST NEW POULTRY PARADE
Bernie’s Delicatessen
4328 Chain Bridge Road, Fairfax; 703-691-1269; www.berniesonline.com
Average entree: Under $12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday.

My sandwich is better than your sandwich. At least, that’s how the Superior makes me feel. Bernie’s beer-can chicken is clearly drunk on its own power—and with good reason. Photography by Jonathan Timmes

I think Fairfax should seriously consider dismantling its entire fire-fighting structure.

Not because of any budget deficits or a spike in civilian preparedness. I just didn’t appreciate getting stuck behind an entire fire brigade the last time I popped into Bernie’s for my fix of beer-can chicken.

Owners Bernard and Leah Socha have parlayed Bernard’s previous career as co-owner of D.C.’s Wagshal’s deli into an eatery and retail operation of their own.

The deli side focuses on custom sandwiches and hot meals the likes of shepherd’s pies, homemade knishes and daily specials, while retail draws include cold drinks (everything from Dr. Brown’s sodas to cold beers and bubbly) to classic impulse buys (dill pickles, gourmet salami).

The aforementioned roast chicken bears bits of brown sugar, paprika and herbs smeared across its bronzed yet juicy skin (three cheers for vaporized beer!), while the aromatic meat remains succulent throughout.

The Superior sandwich beats expectations, heaping corned beef, pastrami, roast beef, sharp cheddar, chicken liver (buttery richness was almost like a second dressing), coleslaw and Russian dressing atop rye bread (breathtaking). Spicy chicken salad yields shredded white meat, diced celery and tart red grapes slathered in yellow curry.

BEST NEW GREGARIOUS GRILL
GoolDaeGee
7220 Columbia Pike, Annandale; 703-256-5133; www.koreanbbq.com
Average entree: Under $13 to $20 ($$). Open 24 hours.

Call me sentimental, but I enjoy watching Korean matriarchs swigging Cass while their grandchildren huddle round the butane-fueled hearths at Annandale’s always buzzing Gooldaegee.

The straight-from-Seoul import—one manager says this is their first stateside store, but notes they’re already looking around Maryland for another potential location—attracts extended Asian families, gangs of chain-smoking young adults and adventurous Westerners looking to eat outside their comfort zone.

Once seated, upbeat servers attack your protein of choice with tongs and kitchen shears, parading each delicacy across the sizzling griddle/open flame/searing pan required to finish each dish.

Safety items like chicken and bul gogi seem to sate timid eaters, while native diners indulge in steaming bean curd “hangover soups” or seasoned beef tripe.

“That’s real pork belly,” one worldly American points out to her wide-eyed daughter as the fatty foodstuff flies by on a tray.

It’s real and it’s fantastic, the thick slabs of marinated swine shrinking down to zesty strips of hot sauced- and thoroughly grilled hog. Juicy pork ribs share the company of hot peppers, caramelized onions and roast garlic before being wrapped in crisp lettuce. Plain chicken is baptized in liquid fire and grilled to perfection alongside homemade kimchi.

(May 2009)

Fellow food scribe Tim Carman wonders whether anyone will be genuinely surprised by the Washington City Paper’s forthcoming “Best of D.C.” picks, particularly as they pertain to the coveted Best Restaurant tag:

Carman suggests that he’s much more jazzed about the Best New Restaurant battle, laundry listing the 25 contenders–roughly 1/3 are from Virginia, including still green properties like Eventide and BRABO–and urging readers to weigh in on the recent hospitality boom.

Having recently sewn up our Best New Restaurants coverage (appearing in our May issue), I was intrigued to see whom Carman et al. are eyeing from across the Potomac. Conversely, his post also reminded me that I desperately need to increase the frequency of my exploratory trips into Hot Chocolate City, lest I lose further touch with the District dining heavies.

Of course, we’ll all be hearing LOADS about the “BEST NEW” this-and-that for weeks to come, as awards season is now in full swing.

Yesterday, the James Beard Foundation nominees were handed down (gala slated for May 4 at Lincoln Center’s Avery Fisher Hall).

Tonight, the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington will make known the candidates for the 2009 RAMMY Awards (gala slated for June 7 at the Omni Shoreham).

Thursday, the City Paper releases its readers takes’ on local toques.

And our round up of the most interesting newcomers to the restaurant landscape should be revealed the week of April 23 (you can reflect on our 2007 list here).

So, all you armchair food critics and amateur dining sleuths might want to skip on over to your favorite “undiscovered gem” one last time.

Because it’s unlikely to remain that way for much longer–especially if us awards-flinging media types have our way.

–Warren Rojas

Spring may be the season of rebirth, but our local dining scene has been in full bloom year round.

We popped in, filled up and hung out at dozens of newcomers before settling on our 20 very favorite restaurants—a contingent including at least one successful spin-off, a few District defectors and a number of first-timers we’d like to see stick around for the long haul.

If you don’t know them, please allow us to introduce you to the Best New Restaurants of 2007 (and the chefs who make them so special).

BEST NEW Southern Belle
Indigo Landing
1 Marina Dr., Alexandria. 703-548-0001 | www.indigolanding.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch

Indigo’s mallard medley

Gorgeous water view: check. Attentive staff: check. Renowned chef aiming to take low-country cooking to new heights: check +. When it comes to the class of 2007, Indigo Landing is definitely making the grade as one of the finest new restaurants in the area.

Twinkling lights from the District skyline set the mood for hopeless romantics, while the rhythmic lapping of the Potomac supplies the ideal soundtrack for a lazy, afternoon lunch. Inside, an army of gracious servers buzz about announcing the arrival of chef Bryan Moscatello’s toothsome creations, retiring empty plates and providing unvarnished advice about the restaurant’s distinctly Southern tilt.

A basket of homemade breads bearing a smoked bacon stick (all the flavor, sans the grease), jalapeño muffins and flaky biscuits, is a snappy how-do-you-do. A comforting bowl of she-crab soup gets dressed up with a captivating crab-filled swizzle stick (terrific). The sultry oyster pie combines meaty oysters, chopped mushrooms and shredded herbs in a creamery soup, crowned with a round of crusty toast. Jumbo shrimp stand proudly atop milky cheddar grits bombarded with bits of country bacon, diced peppers and streaks of buttery cream. The so-called “duck bog” proves a worthwhile trek, delivering a weighty mass of roast duck breast (good), duck liver (better) and chopped duck sausage (best) entrenched in a soupy blend of wild grain rice, rendered duck fat and tomato sauce. Elsewhere, a nutty round of sugary pecans scooped into a graham cracker crust and topped with a boozy ball of mint julep ice cream, will have you whistlin’ Dixie the whole way home.

Best New Country Bistro
The French Hound
101 Madison St., Middleburg | 540-687-3018
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch, Friday and Saturday, and dinner, Tuesday through Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday

Dogs are supposed to be man’s best friend. While no specific breed is ever mentioned, local gourmands looking for something with a Provençal pedigree crossed with a streak of Southern hospitality may want to swear their allegiance to Middleburg’s French Hound.

Since taking over the quaint manor that last housed the much haughtier Aster, Chef John-Gustin Birkitt and his wife/hostess, Marny, have set about to sway patrons with their splashy but never stuffy cuisine. Given that tables are often packed with everyone from spandex-clad bicycling enthusiasts to gregarious dinner groups, their plan seems to be working.

The menu changes seasonally but typically trumpets about a half dozen “snacks” (aged chorizo and cheese or salted radishes), starters, entrées and homemade desserts. One waiter notes that the menu has deliberately been kept short because “the chefs really wanted each dish to speak for the restaurant.”

Message received.

A chilled mash of white beans flanked by anchovies and baked baguette crisps is startlingly sublime. A tangle of frisee gets loaded up with homemade bacon lardons, pickled onions and a poached egg that spreads its yolky payload throughout. A marvelously juicy flat iron steak shares the spotlight with crunchy, herb-laden frites (totally addictive). The mixed paella—served tableside in a gleaming copper pot—sinks aged chorizo (terrific), shrimp (tender), chicken (good) and fresh peas in a rich tomato broth. And life doesn’t get much sweeter than a fan of spongy, sugar-dusted Madelines escorted by a decadent dulce de leche dipping sauce.

BEST NEW Indian Lounge
Tandoori Nights
2800 Clarendon Blvd., #900, Arlington | 703-248-8333 | www.tandoorinights.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$) Open for lunch and dinner daily

From the spacey murals to the earthy cuisine, there’s plenty of ground to cover at Tandoori Nights, Clarendon’s clubby Indian neighbor.

The look here is sleek, uncluttered elegance. Wall-length murals provide a colorful backdrop to each of the modern dining areas, while cushioned bar stools and plush sofas give comfort to the young and pretty who come to get down and dirty during happy hour.

Co-owner and executive chef Shivani Miglani prepares a number of Indian standards—Tandoori-style clay pot offerings, yogurt-laced stews, homemade flat breads like naan and roti—that should be familiar to most ethnic dining enthusiasts. Better yet are signature creations that take traditional Indian cooking in exciting new directions.

An innovative twist on garlic shrimp dunks several hefty prawns in an engaging white wine and honey glaze. A Goani-style fish entrée delivers whopping filets of flavorful salmon smothered in a thrilling red curry sauce accentuated by some terrific dried chilies (great dish). A portion of dim aloo summons hollowed out potatoes stuffed with homemade cheese and then simmered in a soothing yogurt sauce decorated with sliced almonds. The house lamb kabobs produce tender cubes of seasoned lamb brought to a blistering finish on the grill. The Tandoori chicken is respectable; the Tandoori shrimp emerges just slightly spicier. And if another mango lassi just won’t do, try one of the bar’s frosty fruit beverages, like a homemade chiller of mangoes and strawberries twirled about with crushed ice.

BEST NEW Deep-Fried Decadence
Eamonn’s-A Dublin Chipper
728 King St., Alexandria | 703-299-8384 | www.eamonnsdublinchipper.com
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily

Was a time when you had to visit TWO separate dining establishments to satisfy cravings for authentic fish and chips and apocalyptically sweet, county fair-style desserts. Those days are now long gone, thanks to the arrival of celebrity chef Cathal Armstrong’s latest project, Eamonn’s.

The fledgling Irish “chipper”—slang for a traditional fish and chip joint—is the playful ying to sibling Restaurant Eve’s swankier yang, offering a no-frills alternative that still manages to feel like a gourmet fish fry. Service is a mostly carry-out affair, although patrons are invited to mingle with fellow seafood lovers at the handful of communal tables.

A chalkboard menu touts lightly-fried cod filets (4- and 6-ounce portions of flavorful fish), battered ray (a delicious block of bone-in skate wing) and rotating fish of the day specials (swordfish yields a meaty mass of seafood goodness). Fried sausages (spice to spare) and salty, hand-cut “chips” hit the spot, while the battered “burgher,” sadly, flops hard (thin, lifeless patty emerges limp and overly battered). Meanwhile, virtually every flash-fried delicacy gets a boost from one of the “secret seven” dipping sauces, a cadre of mayo-based blends including a terrific hot chili aioli and the savory Chesapeake (spiked with Old Bay seasoning). Come dessert, Snickers bars get dipped in batter, deep-fried and then rolled in cinnamon sugar (absolutely debilitating), while homemade fried dough balls provide just the right balance between starch and sweet. Worthwhile liquid accompaniments include frothy Guinness pints, as well as bottles of Harp, Smithwick’s and Amstel Light.

BEST NEW Roman Refuge
Vespucci
10579 Fairfax Blvd., Fairfax | 703-272-8113 | www.vespuccirestaurant.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily

According to staff, the bright purple orchids that grace every dish served at Vespucci are completely edible, and in fact, heart-healthy. Seems like an awful lot of work for one little flower, considering the heft of the generous pastas and abundant seafood platters prepared by executive chef Emilio Sadaghiani.

An offshoot of owner Ray Farnood’s longstanding catering operation, Vespucci combines the pleasures of fine dining with the comfort of a neighborhood retreat. The main dining room is framed by striking hardwood rafters dotted with decorative lights shaped like grape clusters, while a nautical mural rounds out the restaurant’s unique personality.

The parade of Roman delights begins with a bread basket that sidesteps plain butter in favor of a roast garlic bulb steeped in olive oil (stunning). Roast eggplant envelops a purse of melted ricotta and mozzarella, all smothered in plum tomato sauce. Tortellini mimosa reveals cheese-stuffed ringlets surrounded by a creamy mascarpone sauce propped up by fresh peas and chopped pancetta. Pounded chicken filets are wrapped around a prosciutto-asparagus core, then smothered in melted mozzarella and set afloat in a sultry port wine reduction. Elsewhere, a lemony veal filet turbocharges a salad of torn arugula, sliced red onions and fresh tomatoes. Traditional desserts are tempting, but the hands-down favorite remains the frozen “bomba”—a multi-splendored mound of mango, lemon and raspberry sorbets encased within a white chocolate shell bolstered by bands of chocolate fudge (irresistible).

BEST NEW Elegant Thai
Cee Fine Thai Dining
9901 Fairfax Blvd., Fairfax | 703-293-9898 | www.ceefinethaidining.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily

East trests West at Cee

Seems everywhere you turn these days, a new Thai place crops up overnight. But while many of these fly-by-night operations offer little more than Americanized take-out or deliberately bland buffet offerings, the traditionalists at Cee have accessorized their authentic cuisine with stylish surroundings and unreserved hospitality.

Waitresses in prim khaki tops and long black skirts see to your every need, offering suggestions for those who might founder when faced with the nearly 100 dining options.

For a tidy but tasteful treat, try the delicious “golden sacks,” crispy fried dim sum filled with minced pork and shrimp. A plate of sun-dried beef summons a cluster of crunchy, shredded beef. Marinated chicken wings are grilled instead of drowning to death in a deep-fryer. Strips of barbecue pork absolutely sizzle when introduced to the spicy lime-scallion sauce at their side (excellent). A signature catfish delivers swaths of tender fish with creeper heat (love those piquant chili pods) hidden beneath a seductive honey glaze. Elsewhere, the dichotomous lamb in two seasons yields succulent lamb chops drenched in contrasting pools of scorching red chili sauce with just a touch of coconut milk, and a fragrant garlic base; the combative yet complementary flavors are sectioned off by a wall of steamed broccoli and fresh asparagus.

BEST NEW Sibling Tag-Team
Restaurant Vero
5723 Lee Hwy., Arlington | 703-538-4600 | www.restaurantvero.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday

A star is born at Restaurant Vero

If you have to peek down to the bottom of this review to learn where Restaurant Vero is, it may already be too late for you to get a good table. Particularly since locals have already lain claim to this serene neighborhood charmer.

Inside, tea lights keep things low-key, while wine and mustard walls project a quiet calm. Co-owner Joy Reinhardt keeps a close eye on the front of the house, while her twin brother and the executive chef, Jay, keeps things humming in the kitchen. Meanwhile, co-owner Veronica Kunkel has cobbled together a thoughtful wine list designed to complement their worldly cuisine.

Seared polenta gets smothered beneath a mound of fiery, pulled duck (gloriously mercurial mallard). A slice of well-balanced quiche delivers smoky bacon and fluffy cheese in every bite. A hearty crab cake sandwich reveals a mustardy mound of shredded crab that’s easy on the breading and heavy on genuine, seafood flavor. Tuscan pork ribs exude tomato zest and Italian spices; take your time prying the slow-roasted meat from the bone and even more time savoring the robust flavors from each bite. For sweets, look to a homemade casserole of warm peaches covered in ginger-spiked granola (the real showstopper, here) and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

BEST NEW Suburban Sophisticate
Bazin’s on Church
111 Church St., Vienna | 703-255-7212 | www.bazinsonchurch.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner Tuesday through Saturday, and Sunday brunch; closed Monday

Bazin's oh-so-good oysters

Dining at Bazin’s may not yet qualify as a religious experience. But the thoughtful selections and artful execution at this culinary temple does provide patrons plenty to be thankful for.

The first solo venture for ex-Occidental chef Patrick Bazin and his wife/general manager, Julie, has rapidly become a familiar destination for local gourmands who prefer to dine locally rather than trek downtown. The fairly diverse menu features about a dozen appetizers, another dozen specialty plates and almost as many tempting desserts. During a moment of pause, one waiter suggests, “Everything is very good. Don’t hesitate.”

And he’s mostly right.

Crispy oysters arrive arranged in decorative clamshells only to be topped with a dreamy creamed spinach and country ham mix. Goat cheese profiteroles pack a savory punch, while the corresponding diced beet and walnut salad offers a refreshing crunch. In a brilliant twist on traditional bar fare, jumbo shrimp that have been breaded, fried and coated in a fiery hot sauce (the main event) are lowered into a bed of blue cheese risotto (the dip) decorated with a celery salad (the side). An Iowa pork chop is as big as the Midwest but occasionally emerges as dry as the Dust Bowl. Luckily, the accompanying sweet potato mash (dosed with vanilla) always comes to the rescue. For dessert, look no further than the chocoriffic Michel’s—as in the genius over at Citronelle—chocolate hazelnut crunch bars (bathed in chocolate and caramel) or the peanut butter tart (a heavenly blend of peanut butter, chocolate and ice cream).

BEST NEW Celtic Transplant
Rí Rá Irish Pub & Restaurant
2915 Wilson Blvd., Arlington | 703-248-9888 | www.rira.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily; brunch on weekends

Not ones to wait till the middle of March to celebrate their heritage, the proud Irish expatriates at the new Rí Rá share their culture, cuisine and camaraderie with all who pass through their royal blue doors.

The one-time hardware store (the Virginia Hardware Company sign still juts out from the roof) has been reborn as an upscale pub with a sleek-looking bar heavy on imported drafts, a two-tier dining area and a jovial band of fair-skinned servers that bid you welcome in a prominent brogue. Emerald Isle staples like Colman’s mustard and the vinegary HP sauce (the British A1) are available to spice up any meal, while parched gullets can seek solace in a meticulously poured Guinness or a refreshing glass of Magners cider.

As expected, the menu is rife with Celtic standards (corned beef and cabbage, fish and chips) and pub grub like custom burgers and made-to-order sandwiches.

Meaty wings are coated in a robust Guinness barbecue sauce bolstered by crushed pepper. Fried potato cakes yield lacy patties accented with sour cream and a balsamic reduction. A thick and hearty shepherd’s pie heaps drifts of whipped potatoes atop an almost chili-like ground beef brew. Lamb stew is populated with hefty cubes of tender lamb and vegetables in a thick, cream broth. And you’ll require a lot more than luck to dispatch a gut-busting traditional breakfast stacked with jumbo sausages (bangers), grilled ham steaks (rashers), black and white pudding (rounds of homemade blood and bloodless sausage, respectively), baked beans, fried eggs and Irish soda bread.

BEST NEW Modern Mezze
100 King
100 King St., Alexandria | 703-299-0076 | www.100king.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily

Some people loathe the small-plates-as-centerpieces phenomenon that has electrified the restaurant industry in recent years. But when done properly—as is the case at newcomer 100 King—a parade of pint-sized portions makes it easy to broaden your palate without necessarily thinning out your wallet.

This slick addition to the Lebanese Taverna empire may soon overshadow its homier parents, given its ability to sate fine-dining enthusiasts, wine aficionados and mezze lovers all under one roof. The classic white décor projects a minimalist cool throughout. Patrons have the choice of a bustling downstairs bar/lounge or the more reserved upstairs dining area.

Willard Room veteran Denis Soriano brings along an eye for detail and a passion for the exotic that elevates most plates, big or small, to potential crowd pleasers.

Shrimp Arak summons a gang of meaty crustaceans tossed in lemon juice and red onions. Mushroom fricassee produces a savory mass of wild mushrooms first slivered, then sautéed in garlic and olive oil. A duck confit teaser yields crispy skin and tender meat heaped atop a mound of spiced lentils. A generous pork loin chop basks in a snazzy fig sauce, bolstered by pancetta and chopped portobellos. Chilean sea bass brings a copper-colored filet that flakes with the mere flick of a tine, perched atop a nest of broccolini (a broccoli/Chinese kale hybrid that smacks of spaghetti squash). Sweets are good, but an après dinner portion of Valdeón (knockout Spanish blue cheese) or Chevrot (creamy goat’s milk cheese with honey notes) is even better.

BEST NEW Spice Sensation
Farrah Olivia
600 Franklin St., Alexandria | 703-778-2233 | www.farraholiviarestaurant.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch

Gourmet grits

On first blush, the Farrah Olivia menu could easily be mistaken for a mad scientist’s grocery list: berbere oil, powdered bacon, honeyed cabbage. But the seemingly exotic becomes strikingly straightforward in the hands of chef Morou Ouattara, a culinary wizard determined to broaden your tastes while simultaneously blowing your mind.

Resurfacing after a brief stint at D.C.’s scandal-plagued Signatures (good food, bad rep), Ouattara seems reinvigorated. No longer bound by an all-expense-account clientele, he is now free to tease diners with magical creations reflecting his West African heritage.

Velvety sourdough flan is flanked by grilled sardines, a hill of pulverized bacon and romaine leaves spritzed with Caesar dressing (a Cirque du Soleil-worthy balancing act). Roast pork awash in a curiously strong chocolate-merlot sauce is joined by a fatty cube of Tandoori pork belly (awesome). A savory casserole of tender eggplant, tomato confit, cheddar gratinée and tiny brioche squares nestled in a pool of Greek yogurt sends you sailing through the Mediterranean. Seared scallops atop truffled grits blow traditional brunch offerings out of the water; the creamy grains imbued with a smoky character accentuated by diced scallions and bits of country ham. Ornate chocolate and innovative fruit desserts abound, but don’t overlook the rotating slate of artisanal cheeses (often accompanied by extras like macerated grapes, squiggles of honey, toast sticks and homemade caramel brittle).

In fact, the only real complaint is that the restroom is parked in the highest traffic area possible—wedged between the servers’ station and the entrance to the kitchen.

BEST NEW Revolutionary Café
Bastille
1201 N. Royal St., Alexandria | 703-519-3776 | www.bastillerestaurant.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch, Tuesday through Saturday, and dinner, Tuesday through Sunday; closed Monday

There’s certainly no shortage of fancy French cooking in the Northern Virginia area. Still, it’s always a pleasure to see talented chefs cross the Potomac to practice their craft in more intimate environs—as is the case at neighborhood gem, Bastille.

Ex-Aquarelle toques Christophe Poteaux (savory) and Michelle Garbee (sweets) fled the District for the spot formerly occupied by the Cajun-themed Café Marianna. Patrons are now greeted by glossy wood tables, refinished hardwood floors and cheery paintings by local artists that leap out from walls awash in earthy brown and deep burgundy tones.

Garbee maintains a watchful eye on both sides of the house here, often pausing to personally instruct staff on potential wine and even gourmet beer pairings to accompany Poteaux’s nouveau French cuisine.

A snazzy crab and crawfish cake reveals a lemony patty of fresh seafood (no filler here) served amidst a garden of fresh greens. An all-duck charcuterie tray brings fatty prosciutto with preserves, a crackly leg confit and a buttery rillete. Atlantic cod (nicely seared) is draped across a zesty mound of citrus-soaked risotto. Even the misses are somewhat praiseworthy. Faintly sweet calamari beignets—clever seafood clusters of squid and shrimp in a deep-fried embrace—are terrific, but often get overpowered by their harissa (a traditional Tunisian hot sauce) yogurt mate. Likewise, a handsome croque monsieur is sabotaged by too much salt (salty butter on the bread butts heads with the equally salty country ham within), only to be redeemed by some grand homemade frites.

BEST NEW Traditional Tapas
Tapeo
1301 S. Joyce St., Arlington | 703.416.6432 | www.tapeovirginia.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily

The owners of Tapeo should be fined for practicing medicine without a license. Considering that regular doses of their appetizing small plates, mood-lightening sangrias and spirited Flamenco shows are perhaps the best way to overcome any latent intimacy issues without subsidizing your therapist’s monthly car payment.

The tapas haven is the brainchild of neighboring Ristorante Murali owner Riyad Bouizar, who has moved from Italy to Spain for his latest gastronomic endeavor. The sounds of world music keep things loose in a dining room populated by dozens of bright red chairs, compact tables and a glossy wood bar, while an outdoor patio provides al fresco dining.

The menu features about four dozen hot and cold tapas selections—including over a dozen creations that can be upgraded to full-sized entrées—plus a variety of traditional soups, various paellas (seafood, vegetarian and mixed) and a handful of salads.

The signature Tapeo pizza summons a minipie draped in an almond-infused romesco sauce and topped with a thick layer of mozzarella embedded with chunks of spicy chorizo. An order of jamon Iberico produces grilled pork loin smothered in mashed potatoes, caramelized onions and pert orange gravy (fantastico!). A soupy blend of calamari in black ink-stained rice is seductively spicy (fresh ink adds bite). Tender quail is crisp on the outside but juicy within thanks to some fatty bacon filling. Meanwhile, a mixed paella bearing jumbo shrimp, savory chorizo links, tender chicken and salty fish surrounded by saffron-laced rice would make most Madrileños proud.

BEST NEW Fusion Tapas
Tavern on the Lake
1617 Washington Plz., Reston | 703-471-0121 | www.tavernlake.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch

To some, the term “American tapas” may sound like a misnomer for miniburgers and dough-wrapped cocktail weenies. Not to Steve Jaeger, the innovative chef who has turned the table on conventional tapas with the collection of bold, international selections that crowd the menu at Tavern on the Lake.

The relaxed locale resides within one of Reston’s waterfront shopping plazas, offering patrons the choice of a breezy outdoor patio, a lively lounge set-up or a casual main dining room with floor to ceiling windows that peer out onto the tranquil lake. Once settled, guests face a new set of decisions from a menu stocked with intrepid tapas assembled from Asian, Latin American and European influences.

Chimichurri-soaked chicken brings roast poultry that snaps to attention when paired with the zesty Latin marinade. The duck carnitas (stellar starter) hoists tender, roast duck onto a tortilla capped with lettuce, tomatoes, onions and a piquant tequila cream sauce. Fried plantains get covered in sea salt and a zippy jalapeño-cream sauce (very good). A spicy-sweet cassoulet of stewed figs and diced chorizo awakens the senses. Stuffed yucca summons a starchy fritter filled with chicken and golden raisins (sweet as can be), all wading in a bright peach-mango salsa (powerful). Shredded duck takes another turn as the headliner atop a nest of dark noodles dripping with tantalizing hoisin sauce. Meanwhile, a bountiful Moroccan stew brimming with chick peas, potatoes, onions and tomatoes is a meatless marvel that smacks of fresh cinnamon, clove and anise.

BEST NEW Neighborhood Secret
Crescendo Bistro
32 Main St., Warrenton | 540-347-0550 | www.thecrescendobistro.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, and dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday

As the house-hunting masses continue their steady migration away from the overpriced inside-the-Beltway plots, so goes the local talent. That forced exodus has prompted some talented chefs to seek their fortunes in some of Virginia’s fastest growing rural communities. So it is that sleepy, historic Warrenton has become the beneficiary of the imaginative cuisine served by chef Rob Fleming and partner, Laura Hoffman, at Crescendo Bistro.

The two-story restaurant accomodates casual diners in an upstairs accented by blond wood, exposed brick walls and paper napkins spruced up with shiny silver napkin rings, while you get a much more romantic feel in a downstairs lair beset with linen tablecloths and a massive stone fireplace.

Assorted game and seafood selections make up the heart of the refined menu, but always pause to allow staff to tempt you with creative daily specials.

One such offering of homemade chili reveals a superlative stew of tender buffalo, onions, black beans and celery soaking in a tomato broth. All that’s missing is some shredded cheddar and a side of cornbread to make this a standalone stunner. Crackling fried shrimp are covered in Asian spices and served atop seaweed salad offset by dots of honey mustard. Flank steak rabiatta brings shaved beef tossed over angel hair punctuated by a fragrant sauce of sweet peppers, onions and chunky tomatoes (good, but the name suggests something a little spicier). Conversely, a flattened chicken breast perked up with Fontina, breadcrumbs and thinly sliced prosciutto always rises to the occasion.

BEST NEW Gourmet Playground
Bebo Trattoria
2250-B Crystal Dr., Alexandria | 703-412-5076 | www.bebotrattoria.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch

High flash for little cash at Bebo

Let’s hear it for asbestos! That’s right—I’m pro-shoddy construction materials. Otherwise, Roberto Donna might never have shuttered D.C.’s award-winning Galileo (under renovations until late 2007) or crossed the river to pursue his latest pet project, Bebo Trattoria.

Granted, the service could still use some fine-tuning. But that doesn’t seem to deter the parade of harried government workers who scarf down imaginative small plates at the bar or the longstanding acolytes who gladly come for an audience with the master.

A custom lardo plate delivers chewy homemade bacon, beef tartar (zapped with lemon and olive oil and dusted with fresh pepper and sea salt) and fresh veal sausage (a fatty delight). The piatti unico brings a four-course feast of milky mozzarella propped atop a plump tomato slice, a jumbo meatball steeped in marinara, a noodle roll stuffed with a ricotta-ham-pork ragu (delicious) and an alcohol-soaked shot of creamy chocolate surrounded by crème anglaise (perfect bookend to this Hungry-Man-esque meal). Croquettes of battered bunny are mixed with deep-fried artichokes and scallions (imagine a savory funnel cake) and are accompanied by a pungent citrus mayo. Meanwhile, a dinosaur egg of a meringue envelops dark chocolate ice cream and crystalline mascarpone within a whipped sugar shell afloat in a lake of hazelnut cream (brilliant closer).

BEST NEW Greek Homecoming
Vaso’s Kitchen
1225 Powhatan St., Alexandria | 703-548-2747
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; breakfast on weekends

Vaso's mountainous moussaka

Nothing is more humbling to a food critic than being told to clean your plate by a watchful restaurant owner. Not that much goading is required to polish off the tasty morsels prepared at Vaso’s Kitchen.

Owner Vasiliki “Vaso” Volioti often greets customers at the door—unless she’s off chasing her cherubic granddaughter, Maria, through the homey restaurant. When she’s not occupied with grandmotherly duties, Volioti splits her time between cooking, serving and chastising customers for neglecting their salads or the fresh vegetables of the day. The playful cajoling works both ways, as evidenced by one lunch patron who pops his head into the kitchen and affectionately shouts, “thanks, mom” before departing.

Although hidden deep in Del Ray, those who have stumbled in quickly find their way back for more home-style Mediterranean favorites.

Red peppers, tomatoes and feta are ground into a marvelously zesty hummus. The house gyro—which Volioti proudly proclaims “the best in the area”—is chock full of savory lamb, crumbled feta and diced tomatoes (top notch). The “Athenian” chicken brings an herb-rubbed bird that is juicy to the core (buttery chicken slides off the bone). A plate of baked moussaka summons a bulging square of seasoned beef, julienne potatoes and roasted eggplant covered with an inch-thick fluff of baked béchamel cream (outstanding).

BEST NEW Afghani Charmer
Bamian
5634 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church | 703-820-7880
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily

Forget Armani. Meet dressy Afghani at Bamian

Cultural adaptation is one of the things that make covering the restaurant industry so very interesting. Hence the reason I’m so smitten with Bamian, a new addition to the Bailey’s Crossroads corridor that takes Persian favorites like char-grilled kabobs and homemade yogurt dishes and adds white-tablecloth treatment.

An otherwise plain-Jane exterior betrays luxe touches like a fashionable antechamber adorned with plush chairs and a display of traditional Afghani jewelry. The upscale dining room boasts plenty of space and modern amenities (minichandeliers illuminate from all around, while a bank of semi-private booths provides insta-intimacy). Open tables are not hard to find, but solo diners or small parties may wish they could join the larger groups of Middle Eastern diners that frequently gather to commune, share plates and while away the evening.

The menu includes nearly a dozen kabob standards (beef, lamb, chicken, salmon), but its true strength lies in the more high-brow offerings. A plate of sambosay goshti yields crispy triangles filled with ground beef and herbs (reminiscent of Middle Eastern empanadas). The more polished mantu platter summons homemade dumplings smothered in yogurt, meat sauce and snippets of fresh mint. The bountiful chef carrayee produces the Afghani answer to stir-fry, delivering a stew of sautéed chicken, spinach, onions, peppers and tomatoes accompanied by a zesty herb sauce and a basket of warm flat bread. The more subtle but no less pleasing palau buries tender lamb cubes beneath a mountain of saffron rice crowned with a robust meat stew.

BEST NEW Artful Asian
Hoang’s Grill & Sushi Bar
502 W. Broad St., #5, Falls Church | 703-536-7777 | www.hoangcuisine.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily

Well-made sushi is supposed to be at least as aesthetically pleasing as it is appetizing. Sadly, some slapdash sushi operations roll out suspect combinations of inferior ingredients in the hopes that uninitiated Westerners will be none the wiser. Pray that they are never visited by those privy to the culinary stylings of Hoang’s talented chefs, lest the fakers be forced to consider falling on their decorative samurai swords.

A family-run enterprise that previously prospered in both Florida and Baltimore, the Hoang clan is hoping their nascent Falls Church outpost will be as well received as the earlier ventures. To that end, you can often find the elder Hoang behind the attractive sushi bar hand-rolling individual orders while his dedicated progeny tend to the everyday business operations of the restaurant.

The L-shaped dining room packs plenty of flash, showcasing multi-colored stones along one wall, flowing bamboo ornaments overhead, vibrant silk kimonos prominently displayed in the main dining room and painted soy sauce dispensers placed at every table. Of course, the real fireworks come courtesy of the kitchen.

Tuna tataki summons an eye-catching collection of raw tuna rolled in black and white sesame seeds, topped with spicy mayonnaise and salmon roe, bundled together with shaved cucumber and then surrounded by a soy-based sauce (a grandiose dish).  An octopus sashimi produces a thick slice of coppery cephalopod, while a selection of fresh conch is a chewy delight. Likewise, the aptly named “rock ‘n roll” yields terrific rounds of salmon, eel and avocado carefully wrapped in crunch-inducing breadcrumbs.

BEST NEW Vegetarian Surplus
Saravana Palace
11725 Lee Highway, #A15, Fairfax | 703-218-4182 | www.saravanapalaceva.com
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily

Adhering to a strict vegetarian regimen may sound like a death sentence to those who treasure dining variety. Good thing the creative forces behind the meatless stronghold that is Saravana Palace are always at the ready with a tasteful reprieve.

Parked right in the middle of a budding Fairfax shopping strip, this Indian powerhouse has garnered a dedicated following among the local Indian community—probably about 90 percent of the regular clientele—and curious Westerners alike. The meager décor (just a few tapestries featuring traditional Hindu icons on the walls) would likely benefit from an aesthetic makeover, but it’s still easy enough to get comfortable in the roomy booths and large circular tables in the main dining room.

But don’t let the austere layout fool you. The options are many and the flavors free-flowing on the voluminous menu.

A vibrant tomato sauce turns regular rice into pumpkin-colored grains spiked with fragrant herbs and just the right amount of heat. Curry-soaked squash patties, better known as long squash kafta, come stewed in sweat-inducing spices. The simple yet savory beet porial summons a tart salad of diced beets and shredded peppers. A fork-bending mass of sautéed potatoes and green beans makes you forget that you are actually eating healthy. Gargantuan dosas (traditional rice crêpes) envelope everything from a spiced potato and onion paste to searing homemade chutneys. Those in search of more filling fare should make sure to try the chili paneer, a fabulous blend of tomatoes, onions and fried cheese, sautéed in rich curry.

(March 2007)