50 Best Restaurants

By Warren Rojas / Photography by Hana Jung, James Kim and Jonathan Timmes

A cavalcade of fresh faces, adventurous cuisines and awe-inspiring environs joins the ranks of our annual fine-dining round-up this year—bumping our epicurean who’s who to twice its original size (now boasting 50 unbeatable restaurants you don’t want to miss).

The competition was fierce. The evaluation process grueling (think back-to-back-to-back meals).

Along the way we got better acquainted with some of the area’s top toques. More importantly, we learned more about how you, our readers, make everyday dining decisions.

Sette Bello
3101 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-351-1004; www.settebellorestaurant.com
Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily; Sunday brunch.
$$ FOOD: 7.4   AMBIANCE: 7.1   SERVICE: 6.4

“This is actually my favorite table. You can see everything from here,” the manager shares as she slides us into one of the corner perches at the social hub that is Sette Bello—a hipster magnet powered by local dining impresario Franco Nuschese (the mastermind behind D.C.’s Café Milano and Sette Osteria).

Floor-to-ceiling windows ensure that those who come to be seen are—leaving passersby to gaze in longingly at the feasting and frivolity taking place within. Sunken sofas opposite the bar are ideal thrones for oversized personalities come to play. Elsewhere, curvy booths hugging a far wall in the main dining room provide a hint of privacy for more bashful guests.

Bruschetta can be crowned with everything from fresh ricotta (creamtacular) to an exhilarating prosciutto-fig jam duet (cured ham and spicy preserves absolutely sing).  Grilled octopus (their tiny bodies infused with smoke) and tender coils of scorched calamari turn seafood salad into a star attraction. Cream-soaked shells play host to savory ground pork (awash in caraway and pepper) and meaty sauteed mushrooms.

Highs: Quattro formaggi pie
Lows: disappearing servers
Share: fettucine alla boscaiola
Savor: Borlotti-stocked pasta e fagioli

Meaza
5700 Columbia Pike, Falls Church; 703-820-2870; www.meazaethiopiancuisine.com
Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.
$ FOOD: 7.0   AMBIANCE: 6.7   SERVICE: 5.8

Granted, raw beef and exotic spices may not be for everyone. But those who treasure the allure of warm dough, chilled meats and fiery sauces never need fear walking away from Meaza unsatisfied.

Injera queen Meaza Zemedu decided to consolidate her local power base—until recently, she had been supplying many local Ethiopian restaurants with their porous, utilitarian bread—by opening her eponymous cafe and market.

Inside, sand-colored walls and plaid-upholstered chairs suggest calm, while detailed portraits of revered Ethiopian leaders cast on stretched animal skins are equally patriotic and provocative.

The menu features mostly beef and lamb preparations, with a few safety dishes (spaghetti, mixed proteins and rice) thrown in for good measure.

Fit-fit (diced tenderloin) is sauteedwith hot peppers, tomatoes, onions and torn injera, until everything is coated in fiery berbere paste. Doro wot yields more adrenaline-producing fare—“This is really, really good,” one guest sputtered as I watched beads of sweat collect across his brow—tempered by stewed chicken legs and preserved eggs (potent stuff).

Highs: doro wot
Lows: generic desserts
Share: lamb short ribs
Savor: special kitfo

fyve
1250 S. Hayes St., Arlington; 703-412-2760; www.ritzcarlton.com
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, Sunday brunch.
$$$ FOOD: 8.1   AMBIANCE: 7.9   SERVICE: 8.4

The student is indeed becoming a master over at fyve, as Roberto Donna protege Amy Brandwein (for a mini-profile, see pg. 62) carves out a place for herself among the area’s marquee chefs with a bold Mediterranean vision.

The reconditioned property (Brandwein was brought in to revamp the Ritz-Carlton’s sputtering Grille concept) mostly services business travelers, but appears to be making inroads with nostalgic locals as well.

During one visit, confirmed regulars didn’t just greet their waiter, they celebrated his arrival—“Maurice! How are you?” the pair gushed upon spotting a familiar server—and then quickly begin comparing notes about the new restaurant (they were both impressed).

Grilled octopus tastes of sea and smoke, while cherry tomatoes supply tart freshness. A signature salmon dish summons roast fish (anise and cinnamon shine through) parked atop a checkerboard of black and white lentils (pretty, but otherwise bland). Pasta with pancetta, mushrooms and sweetbreads comes two-thirds of the way through (broad noodles fold over on themselves, creating jolly pockets of pancetta au jus; ill-prepared sweetbreads elicit doughy nothingness).

Highs: fontina-stuffed rabbit
Lows: over-hyped spaghetti squash gratin
Share: broccoli-sausage orechiette
Savor: lemon chicken

Rangoli
24995 Riding Plaza, #120, South Riding; 703-957-4900; www.rangolirestaurant.us
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
$$ FOOD: 7.1   AMBIANCE: 7.4   SERVICE: 7.2

Rangoli general manager Sam Santosh can’t seem to get in a word edgewise.

He’s trying desperately to steer a pair of regulars towards unexplored dishes, but the woman simply won’t stop gushing about her go-to favorites.

“I love all the different flavors,” the loyal patron exclaims. “That’s why we keep coming back.”

Repeat business is a nice problem to have—and it’s one that the entire Rangoli staff seems to wholeheartedly welcome regularly.

Fresh-baked naan is delivered to every table until patrons say halt. Golden cubes of homemade cheese are sauteed with peppers and onions for a fiery vegetarian fix. Tandoori salmon is flavor simplified, delivering a mouthwatering filet of yogurt-bathed fish. Hot pepper-rubbed chicken (hirayali kebab) brings white-meat chicken stained green with mint and cilantro (fragrant and hot).

Highs: robust vegetarian curries
Lows: excessively fatty lamb chops
Share: homemade paneer
Savor: Tandoori salmon

The Majestic
911 King St., Alexandria; 703-837-9117; www.majesticcafe.com
Open for lunch Monday through Saturday, dinner daily.
$$ FOOD: 8.3   AMBIANCE: 7.6   SERVICE: 7.4

On any given night, the Majestic’s mod dining room is packed with multi-generational families, relaxing boomers and, increasingly, youngish chowhounds—no doubt training their palates for meals to come at elder statesman, Restaurant Eve.

Executive chef Shannon Overmiller (for a mini-profile, see pg. 78) and her team adhere to the same strict standards as Eve, albeit in a much looser setting (think T-shirts and jeans, but fine-dining protocol).

The addition of “the royal pick” lunch special (any menu item and soda for $12, bar only) is a terrific loyalty-builder. And in a move I hope to see replicated everywhere, staff have abandoned the high-end hydration push, offering ice water as the first best option above bottled fare.

Fried green tomatoes streaked with goat cheese and nestled atop savory tomato jam and sweet corn relish signal the best of summer. The house chicken scores big with a roast breast (rife with butter, herbs and lemon) and comfit leg duo, but dry-ish potatoes disappoint. Caramelized key lime pie sports a lime-spiked center and cracker-y crust.

Highs: from-scratch cocktails
Lows: watery milkshakes
Share: triple-layer cake of the day
Savor: Chesapeake-style stew

Patowmack Farm
42461 Lovettsville Road, Lovettsville; 540-822-9017; www.patowmackfarm.com
Open for dinner, Thursday through Saturday; weekend brunch.
$$$ FOOD: 8.8   AMBIANCE: 8.8   SERVICE: 8.6

One night, the tranquility of Patowmack Farm’s au naturale dining room was shattered by the conspiratorial chatter of guilt-ridden patrons determined to keep their unscheduled visit from a forgotten friend.

“I don’t think we should tell her we came here today,” one woman suggested.

Sorry, ladies. The secret’s out.

Culinary purist Christian Evans (for a mini-profile, see pg. 69) keeps pushing the envelope of the farm-to-fork movement with each passing harvest, conducting local cheeses, humanely raised proteins and just-plucked vegetables into a symphony of natural delights.

Mixed greens are enlivened by blueberry vinaigrette and cheery marigolds. Luscious veal shares the spotlight with herb-roasted potatoes and wild mushrooms (big flavors, all around). An espresso cake—forged from handcrafted ingredients supplied by a local chocolatier—arrives bathed in blueberry compote (syrupy pods burst with flavor), crème anglaise and cinnamon crumbs (irresistibly rich).

Highs: farm-fresh everything
Lows: bungled drink orders
Share: herb-laced breads
Savor: seared veal loin

Zum Rheingarten
3998 Jefferson Davis Highway, Stafford; 703-221-4635; www.zumrheingarten.com
Open for dinner, Wednesday through Sunday.
$$$ FOOD: 6.9   AMBIANCE: 7.3   SERVICE: 6.6

Visit Stafford hideaway, Zum Rheingarten, more than once, and you’ll no doubt start to spot familiar faces.

And I’m not just talking about caretakers Jannec and Katherine Hornig (he’s the executive chef; she’s the general manager). It’s the recidivist families that seem content to spend every weekend feasting within the same four walls.

And who can blame them?

A creamy brew of tender potatoes and salty kielbasa is guaranteed to ward off any winter chill. Jumbo bratwurst summons a savory-sweet link of homemade sausage that makes American dogs seem toothless. Pork Wellington yields ham-wrapped tenderloin baked within phyllo (succulent meat, flaky dough) and accompanied by bacon-topped mashed potatoes (three shades of swine = one happy camper).

Highs: tall mugs of Spaten Optimator
Lows: fighting Route 1 traffic
Share: Rheingarten kaseplatte
Savor: wiener schnitzel a la Holstein

 

The Dock at Lansdowne
19286 Promenade Drive, #P-101, Leesburg; 571-333-4747; www.thedockatlansdowne.com
Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily, Sunday brunch.
$$ FOOD: 7.0   AMBIANCE: 7.1   SERVICE: 6.9

A welcome port for post-work revelers, The Dock appears to be a hands-down favorite among Lansdowne residents.

The restaurant originally built up a loyal following with its happy-hour specials (discount snacks, cut-rate martinis) and has since solidified its base with rotating nightly specials (pasta, prime rib, lobster).

Perhaps more importantly, staff stays alert when menu items seem to falter—as was the case when one server instinctively struck a half-eaten bisque from our bill “because it didn’t seem like it was up to par” (my guest later confided that it was a tad cold).

Fried shrimp arrive drizzled in tangy-fresh chili-lime sauce. Homemade crab cakes taste of jumbo lump, eggs and a touch of baked cheese (quite tasty). Grilled pork chops, on the other hand, are big, but terribly plain.

Highs: catching the early-bird specials
Lows: too few barstools
Share: fried buttermilk shrimp
Savor: hickory-grilled  salmon

The Grille at Morrison House
116 S. Alfred St., Alexandria; 703-838-8000; www.morrisonhouse.com
Open for breakfast and dinner daily, Sunday brunch.
$$$$ FOOD: 8.9   AMBIANCE: 8   SERVICE: 8.4

Rather than divorcing the two, executive chef Dennis Marron seems determined to mix business with pleasure—tempting Morrison House’s globe-trotting clientele with his epicurean artistry.

Hidden within a boutique hotel, the Grille pulls no punches on pricing (expense accounts help). Still, the menu has enough built-in flexibility—including three-, five- or six-course tasting menus (wine pairings are $20, $30 or $40, respectively), a la carte options and bistro nibbles (truffled fries)—to accommodate curious locals.

A shrimp-salad teaser delivered even shots of sweet meat and fresh dill. Pork cheeks are showered in sweet thanks to a brown-sugar braising and caramelized shallots (sublime). Scallop range from raw (lemon-spritzed crudo) to ravishing (flash seared and enveloped in bacon foam) in four delicious bites. A bison tutorial summons grilled loin meat flanked by smoky homemade sauce and a tartare burger that mimics traditional barbecue (pristine buffalo pulls off a great pulled-pork impression).

Highs: braised pork cheeks
Lows: gummy catfish in muddled gumbo sauce
Share: ingenious dessert medleys
Savor: scallops progression

Claiborne’s
200 Lafayette Blvd., Fredericksburg; 540-371-7080; www.claibornesrestaurant.com
Open for dinner, Tuesday through Sunday.
SSS FOOD: 7.3 AMBIANCE: 7.6 SERVICE: 7.4

“I’m not much of a wine connoisseur,” my obviously green server informs me when I fish for suggestions from Claiborne’s fairly straightforward wine list.

Nothing a few samples of primo wine can’t solve.

Things get somewhat testier another night when I catch a server and her customers commiserating about the dreadfully slow pacing of the meal (“We’re ready for our entrees now,” the couple states. “So am I,” fires back the clearly frustrated/embarrassed server).

Still, Claiborne’s keeps chugging along.

Fried oysters are exalted by zesty green goddess sauce (excellent herbiness). A mixed-seafood grill weaves together crab cake (lemony meat), sauteed shrimp (buttery) and broiled haddock with wild rice and pungent collard greens. Prime rib arrives awash in salty au jus, but devoid of the promised horseradish.

Highs: mid-summer meal on the patio
Lows: bold-faced nametags have got to go
Share: fried oysters
Savor: single-malt scotch selection

Bangkok 54
2919 Columbia Pike, Arlington; 703-521-4070; www.bangkok54restaurant.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
$ FOOD: 6.5   AMBIANCE: 6.9   SERVICE: 6.6

Stylish seats and pulse-racing eats are hallmarks at Bangkok 54, a hipster noodle house specializing in tongue-teasing Thai cooking.

Staff looks sharp from season to season (sporting pastel golf shirts in warmer weather, stark black button-ups and vibrant ties during colder months) in an effort to match the trendy decor within (fashionable cushions, overhead spotlights).

Monthly jazz sessions and a sleek bar setup help ensure that even the most timid of diners can enjoy a lengthy visit.

Meanwhile, the tantalizing cooking keeps spice-seeking locals from having to wander too far from home to get their fiery fix.

Breaded catfish tossed with fresh basil, baby corn, hot peppers and eggplant arrives steeped in blistering curry (phenomenally spicy). Batter-fried duck receives the four-alarm treatment courtesy of fresh chili peppers and ample garlic. Slow-roasted pork shows its sweet side beneath a layer of Chinese five-spice, delivering fragrant nuggets of clove, cinnamon and pepper-streaked meat (well-structured dish).

High: special duck roll
Low: deficit of sake-loving companions
Share: chili-soaked larb
Savor: crispy pork belly

La Strada
1905 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria; 703-548-2592; www.lastrada-ontheave.com
Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner daily, weekend brunch.
$$ FOOD: 8.1   AMBIANCE: 7.4   SERVICE: 7.1

The space is so small and the business so new, that the waiter thrusts out his hand and offers a booming, “So nice to see you again,” the minute I walk through the front door.

Truth is, I’m just as happy to be back at La Strada—an encore performance for chef/owner Stephen Scott in the neighborhood Italian category (Argia’s was his most recent community dining venture) that’s taken root amongst a revitalized Del Ray.

The quaint establishment boasts a patio and just over a dozen cozy tables sprinkled about the main dining room.

Daily specials often include intimate touches like garden-fresh tomatoes (grown out back) and homemade mozzarella.

An all-encompassing fritto misto turns up deep-fried squid, octopus and even lemons, all liberally sea salted (adds both crunch and zip). Crusty, cubed bread serves as the high-fiber foundation of a salad replete with seared scallops, vinegar-soaked peppers (hot and sweet), red onions, diced tomatoes and capers. Saltimbocca yields veal cutlets wrapped in baked prosciutto, all submerged in puddles of sage, butter and white wine (bellissimo!).

Highs: homegrown tomatoes
Lows: over-mushroomed pasta
Share: panzanella salad
Savor: spicy sausage penne

Carlyle
4000 S. 28th St., Arlington (S); 703-931-0777; www.greatamericanrestaurants.com
Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily, weekend brunch.
$$ FOOD: 8   AMBIANCE: 7.6   SERVICE: 7.8

Shortly after an ordering snafu at Carlyle caused some nearby patrons to receive their entrees ahead of a planned appetizer, an apologetic manager swooped in with the comped snack in hand and a chorus of mea culpas.

“We’ll try harder next time, I promise,” he pledged. And that is what’s known around these parts as “GAR star” service.

Local diners have come to expect a lot from the GAR family of restaurants, and most staffers seem all but too happy to live up to the well-deserved hype. One overachiever ticked off his specials with ease, breezily segued into a mini-profile of new daily wine deals (much appreciated), provided regular status reports and checked back like clockwork.

Batter-fried shrimp join diced papaya (mostly sweet), sliced peppers and seasoned noodles in a flashy Asian salad. Lean hanger steak can’t quite hang with other local beef barons, but a side of deep-fried mashed-potato rolls interlaced with pungent blue cheese goes a long way to filling in the cracks. Grilled halibut sizzles astride andouille and crawfish succotash.

Highs: sun-drenched meals on the patio
Lows: staggering beer markups
Share: Tex-Mex eggrolls
Savor: roast chicken in brown butter

Restaurant Eve
110 S. Pitt St., Alexandria; 703-706-0450; www.restauranteve.com
Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner, Monday through Saturday.
$$$$ FOOD: 9.2   AMBIANCE: 9.2   SERVICE: 9.2

Restaurant Eve’s official motto is “nourish the palate.”

But the one-dimensional slogan fails to capture the truly restorative nature of a dining experience predicated upon artfully crafted food, unabashedly attentive servers and the lavish little details that make Eve a cherished epicurean paradise.

Chef/owner Cathal Armstrong (for a mini-profile, see pg. 49) has collected enough awards and neighboring properties to warrant the by-BlackBerry-only management style adopted by other celebrity chefs.

Yet there he is in the Eve kitchen, coming in early to inspect the latest haul from the local farmers’ market and staying late to make sure even night owls have a shot at sampling his next great creation.

Chicken-confit salad spreads luxe bird (crackling, brown skin, glistening meat) across mixed greens and julienne tomatoes, tossed with a tomato-basil vinaigrette that’s all acid and flash (glorious). Poached fluke (clean, uncomplicated fish) provides the perfect foil for a cushion of buttery corn veloute and crunchy green beans. Au jus-soaked lamb steak reigns supreme over a landscape of tiny potatoes, caramelized onions and spicy, split sausage.

Highs: lobster garganelli
Lows: gift-free dinners (no amuse or sweets?)
Share: blocks of garrotxa and cashel blue
Savor: lamb steak with merguez

Tuscarora Mill
203 Harrison St. S.E., Leesburg; 703-771-9300; www.tuskies.com
Open for lunch and dinner, daily, late-night dining, Monday through Saturday.
$$$ FOOD: 7.2   AMBIANCE: 7.0   SERVICE: 7.1

Most nights, Tuskie’s plays home to local retirees and distinguished professionals looking to mix business with pleasure. But thanks to executive chef Patrick Dinh, the menu remains more daring than mere status quo cooking.

Extended families and casual diners usually lay claim to the mill’s maze of dining rooms. While budding beer connoisseurs seem most content in the laid-back lounge (nearly two dozen handcrafted brews on tap).

Dinh appears to draw inspiration from around the globe, rolling out ambitious daily specials that make the whiffs more painfully obvious.

Fried oysters fizzle beneath a timid sauce that lacks the promised curry punch (much more sweet than savory). Seared scallops fare much better atop a sweet pepper couscous littered with feta, black olives and capers (entrancing). Smoked pork shines beneath a saucy ancho chile glaze.

Highs: adventurous daily specials
Lows: epicurean mismatches
Share: basmati-crusted scallops
Savor: salmon club

Rustico
827 Slaters Lane, Alexandria; 703-224-5051; www.rusticorestaurant.com
Open for lunch, Tuesday through Sunday, dinner daily.
$$ FOOD: 8.3   AMBIANCE: 7.8   SERVICE: 7.3

Rustico is raising the bar on everyday beer havens by weaving handcrafted brews, superlative mains and whimsical sweets into a fresh interpretation of fine dining.

Executive chef Frank Morales and beer director Greg Engert are the team to beat in the beer-as-gourmet-dining-bait universe, completing each other’s epicurean sentences—when Morales unveils a crushed ginger snap-crusted foie gras, Engert counters with the perfect Scotch ale—without so much as a stutter. Their passions run so high (Engert has an Orvist Trappist emblem tattooed on his wrist; Morales fought to keep his chef’s tasting bar because “it’s the most logical way for me to get out to talk about the food”), it’s no wonder the pair have been tapped to recreate their magic at D.C.’s forthcoming Birch & Barley/ChurchKey.

Seafood pizza boasts plucky shrimp, diced tomatoes, fontina and a chewy, wood-fired crust. Fried chicken (think ethereal crispiness rather than deliberate crunch) is drizzled with honey and partnered with whip-smart salt-and-peppered beans. A slice of devil’s food is as heavy as Lucifer’s soul, but a clever buttermilk chaser cuts through the sugary decadence.

Highs: grilled watermelon salad
Lows: nearly 400 beers = mucho cab fare
Share: fruity brew pops
Savor: anything short ribs

Chef’s Table
Seats: 2-4
Menu: 7 courses
Scene: snazzy bar stools peering right into the main kitchen
Cost: $98 pp (includes beer pairings)
Reserve: 48 hours in advance

Lebanese Taverna
Mulitple NoVa locations; www.lebanesetaverna.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
$$ FOOD: 6.8   AMBIANCE: 6.8   SERVICE: 6.2

With a half-dozen area restaurants now under their belt, it should be safe to crown the Abi-Najm clan as the heavyweight champs of modern mezze.

Although each Lebanese Taverna shop fosters a different look and feel than its siblings—the original Arlington location is all etched glass and historical snapshots, whereas Tysons II showcases faux stone walls and twinkling lanterns—the near-uniform menu allows longstanding Taverna devotees to feast on all their favorites no matter where they might go.

Spice-infused feta (bold cheese gets kicked up a few notches by mint, paprika and black pepper) lights a fire in your belly. Seared lamb is accompanied by a mint-cilantro paste (warm meat, herby coolness work well together) and roast potato spears. Piles of shaved beef take comfort in the company of basmati rice, tahini and garlic puree.

Highs: happening happy-hour crowd
Lows: curt servers
Share: beef shawarma
Savor: shankleesh

Ristorante Bonaroti
428 Maple Ave. E., Vienna; 703-281-7550; www.ristorantebonaroti.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
$$$ FOOD: 7.9   AMBIANCE: 7.8   SERVICE: 8.2

Though dressed to the nines in a neatly pressed tuxedo, it’s obvious the waiter is up for some mischief. “Can I complicate things a little?” he coyly inquires before filling our heads with a litany of off-the-menu temptations that spin simple decision-making right out the door.

Welcome to another evening at Ristorante Bonaroti—a fine-dining paradise cum hell for the indecisive.

Each day, the kitchen trots out nearly a dozen rotating appetizer, soup, salad, pasta, fish and meat specials (lots of lobster, monkfish, veal and lamb in play here).

Mozzarella-filled zucchini are fried to a crisp and drizzled with mushroom ragout. Roast rockfish draws strength from zesty peppers and creamy polenta. Mouthwatering veal cutlets are filled with ground veal and mozzarella, rolled up on themselves and smothered in a captivating wine sauce.

Da Domenico/ Zeffirelli
Multiple NoVa locations; www.zeffirelliristorante.com
Check locations for times.
$$ FOOD: 7.5   AMBIANCE: 7.0   SERVICE: 7.5

Not to make sweeping generalizations, but Da Domenico and Zeffirelli are more than simpatico establishments that happened to join forces.

They are actually mirror images of one another—at least when viewed through the prism of unparalled veal-chop appreciation.

To be perfectly fair, each of the restaurants beneath the Zeffirelli umbrella harbors its own unique charms (Tysons does veal and pork justice;  Herndon fields better seafood specials) and built-in clienteles. But after making the rounds, it became clear that collectively comparing them as components of a much larger whole made more sense than parsing them separately.

A salad of shaved fennel (mellow, but refreshing), walnuts and goat cheese decorated with pesto dots provides a welcome change from your average mixed/bitter greens fare. The signature veal chop reveals a three-fingers stack of red wine-soaked meat that readily melts across the tongue (potent wine-pepper blend impregnates the tender flesh). Shrimp- and calamari-filled ravioli bathed in lobster cream sauce are a seafood symphony, bar none.

Highs: veal-chop special
Lows: parking shortage at Da Domenico
Share: whopping antipasti plate
Savor: ravioli alla Genovese

Yechon
4121 Hummer Road, Annandale; 703-914-4646; www.yechonrestaurant.com
Open 24 hours.
$$ FOOD: 6.6   AMBIANCE: 6.0   SERVICE: 6.0

Some might dismiss the string of neon orange and green lights outside Yechon as so much window dressing. But to ethnic-dining scouts and ravenous night owls, that same pastel glow serves as a beacon for those in search of sustenance during the witching hours.

The all-night venue specializes in Korean barbecue (typically prepared on tabletop grills) and Japanese sushi (hand rolled by dedicated personnel). Crowds tend to skew majority Asian, but the ranks of in-the-know Westerners seem to be growing daily—with good reason.

A scathing codfish-and-tofu soup sweats the toxins right out of you. Short ribs arrive lacquered in a fiery marinade (fresh pepper flakes cling to the grill-marked flesh). A mammoth seafood omelet envelops shrimp, fresh octopus and whole scallions in a crispy shell.

Highs: scoring a hot meal at 3 a.m.
Lows: being snubbed by grumpy servers
Share: bul gogi
Savor: seafood-laden hot pots

Daniel  O’Connell’s
112 King St., Alexandria; 703-739-1124; www.danieloconnells.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily, weekend brunch.
$$$ FOOD: 7.7   AMBIANCE: 7.6   SERVICE: 6.9

Though not yet a threat to that other Irish food-slinger further up King, Daniel O’Connell’s has certainly made great strides towards solidifying itself as a respectable dining spot in just a few short years.

The popular gathering place continues to draw its share of jersey-clad expats who’ve come to catch the latest futbol matches. But local professionals are just as likely to conduct unofficial business meetings over proper Guinness pints.

Though owner Mark Kirwan can claim credit for the authentic Irish feel of the place, the contemporary cuisine being spun out of the kitchen is all courtesy of executive chef Colin Abernethy.

Pancetta-wrapped tuna is peppered on top, Italian baconed in the middle and mushroom hashed at its base (each tier more delicious than the last). Pulled pheasant is tossed with candied nuts, goat cheese and dried fruits, and then anointed in bacon-molasses vinaigrette. Pepper-rubbed pork loin joins bonus pulled pork atop buttery wild rice (salt, pepper, fat; this dish has it all).

Highs: pheasant salad
Lows: dry coffeecake
Share: Guinness short ribs
Savor: peppered pork loin

Farrah Olivia
600 Franklin St., Alexandria; 703-778-2233; www.farraholiviarestaurant.com
Open for dinner daily and weekend brunch.
$$$ FOOD: 9.1   AMBIANCE: 8.6   SERVICE: 8.5

“No, you order something different so the table gets a little bit  of everything,” the woman chided a companion who even dared consider denying everyone  at their table the opportunity to eat their way around the Farrah Olivia menu by duplicating a fellow hospitality professional’s meal request.

Carefully choreographed dining assignments? Sounds like these folks can’t bear to miss a single morsel that might spring from the mind of the mad genius better known as chef/owner Morou Ouattara.

Though still in its infancy, Ouattara’s Alexandria restaurant has spawned legions of devoted followers anxious to explore his seasonal creations and West African accents.

A chilled watermelon-ginger-lemongrass shooter touches off a series of fireworks across the palate. Twin towers of beef tartare are bridged by micro greens-covered toast points and accompanied by pulverized cream cheese, a faux egg yolk (golden coin bleeds mustard sauce), pickled piquillo peppers (sweet) and a streak of berbere oil (savory runway). Orange-infused salmon (enticing skin) float atop shrimp-tinged yucca couscous, while a chilling mint-pea sauce waits in the wings (gorgeous dish).

Highs: wonton-wrapped organic greens
Lows: shoddily attired servers (stained shirts, missing buttons)
Share: ginger cheesecake
Savor: Manhattan chowder with parsley crumbles

Nizam’s
523 Maple Ave. W., Vienna; 703-938-8948
Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday.
$$ FOOD: 7.6   AMBIANCE: 7.4   SERVICE: 7.2

After over three decades in the hospitality game, you might imagine restaurateur Nizam Orguz might be ready to slow down a bit.

Think again.

The always presentable Orguz greets every guest as they cross the threshold into his eponymous Vienna restaurant. And most long-time patrons refuse to leave without a least shaking Orguz’s hand, if not affectionately embracing the well-known host.

The venerable Turk has fostered a loyal following by keeping things intimate (main dining room accommodates maybe a dozen tables), while serving up unabashedly Mediterranean cuisine.

Paprika-sprinkled cheese is melted for easy scooping with toasted pitas. Rotisserie beef is sauteed with pitas and yogurt sauce, then topped with a blistered hot pepper. Seafood casserole layers red snapper, spinach, onions and cream beneath a canopy of au gratin (delicious).

Highs: greeting/farewell from owner Nizam Orguz
Lows: dodging kitchen staff to reach the restroom
Share: kasar sahanda
Savor: red snapper a la Bosphorus

Serbian  Crown
1141 Walker Road, Great Falls; 703-759-4150; www.serbiancrown.com
Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday.
$$$ FOOD: 7.4   AMBIANCE: 7.5   SERVICE: 7.1

Showmanship remains the Serbian Crown’s saving grace, a bastion of continental cuisine and exotic game.

Proprietor Rene Bertagna remains intimately connected to his restaurant, greeting guests with a welcoming smile and playful entreaties to become better versed in the pleasures of chilled vodka (the bar stocks a dizzying array of top-shelf spirits).

Reduced traffic seems to have force staff reductions at lunch, an ill-advised move given the need for expediency if one wishes to take full advantage of the three- and four-course prix-fixe deals ($19.95 and $29.95, respectively; feature many of their greatest hits, including zesty cevapcici, tasty zakuska, stuffed cabbage and wild boar).

Eastern-European staples (chicken kiev) and gourmet meats (antelope, rabbit) work best, as these dishes allow the kitchen to show off a bit.

Roast swordfish is enveloped in butter and lemony béarnaise. Veal scallopine is better, delivering tender filets drenched in sour cream and mushrooms.

Highs: spicy kick of a Moscow mule
Lows: mushy avocado dishes
Share: zakuska
Savor: wild boar

Bebo Trattoria
2250-B Crystal Drive, Arlington; 703-412-5077; www.bebotrattoria.com
Open for lunch, Monday through Saturday, dinner daily.
$$ FOOD: 7.5   AMBIANCE: 7.4   SERVICE: 6.4

Perhaps now more comfortable in his Crystal City skin, Roberto Donna seems to have tamed problem child Bebo Trattoria—tweaking his menu too play up his newfound pizza-making passion and plugging nagging service gaps.

Hostesses acknowledge and seat guests (gasp!) right as they arrive. Ordered meals actually reach the table (hallelujah!). Things take a turn back toward the embarrassing when a companion points out a slick of mystery substance coating our just dispensed ice water (waiter offers no explanation, just whisks the offensive liquid away and returns with plain H2O).

The menu seems just as revitalized, thanks to some clever wine and pizza deals—Barbera with broccoli rabe, merlot and margherita, nebbiolo with prosciutto—one server cited as part of a new push to educate locals about commonsense wine pairings.

A coil of homemade sausage swathed in salsa verde (basil, oregano dominate) satisfies. A sunny egg crowns a yeasty pie padded with buffalo mozzarella and fresh basil (busted yolk is ideal for crust dipping). Anchovy-topped veal soaks up the love of zesty tomato ragout.

Highs: myriad wood-fired pizzas
Lows: blasé house meatballs
Share: homemade lardo plate
Savor: fettucine bolognese

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25 Best Restaurants

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25 Best Restaurants 2006

Behold! A Cheat Sheet for What to Eat at the Area’s Dining Elite

By Warren Rojas / Photography by Stacy Zarin

Class. Pizzazz. Splendor.

The 25 locales on our Best Restaurants list exude that special something—indulging guests with more than just a great meal: They help create indelible memories. We selected the top dining establishments and graded their food (F), ambience (A) and service (S). We also assembled a “Dream Menu” of favorite dishes from each, while our dedicated Wine Pros plucked choice selections from the respective wine lists.

So enjoy.  (We did.)

2941 Restaurant
2941 Fairview Park Drive, Falls Church; 703-270-1500
Intercontinental $$$$
F 8.7   A 8.8   S 8.5 

Start with a panoramic lake view. Add several parts imaginative cooking to a healthy dose of aesthetic design. Sprinkle signature touches like artisan breads and homemade cotton candy. And voila! You’ve got the recipe for success that keeps the tables filled at the illustrious 2941.

Floor-to-ceiling windows bathe daytime patrons in natural light, while a starry cape descends for those interested in a late-night meal—begging the question if Mother Nature is on the payroll.  Inside, a team of impeccably dressed servers fawn over each table while chef/owner Jonathan Krinn charms guests during his impromptu tableside visits.

The menu features a host of seasonal dishes along with myriad package deals including a nine-course tasting extravaganza (available at lunch or dinner) and the build-your-own menu spontane (four courses per couple).

A bouquet of white asparagus, leeks and spaetzel is awakened by terse vinaigrette. Maine lobster in a blood orange curry proves exciting. Halibut anointed with razor clams is a soft treasure. Stuffed chicken breasts hug a core of creamy morels. Or sate your taste for beef with a hanger steak soaked in Merlot or a pepper-encrusted sirloin paired with polenta.

Dream menu
Appetizer Spiced Maine lobster tail
Entrée Halibut and razor clams
Dessert Homemade creamsicle

Yohai’s Wine Picks
Red GLASS: 2003 Lemelson “Thea’s Selection” Pinot Noir BOTTLE: Philippe Gonet Rosé Brut Champagne
White GLASS/BOTTLE: 2002 Château de Varennes Savennieres

Bellissimo
10403 Main Street, Fairfax; 703-293-2367
Traditional Italian $$$
F8.2   A 7.9   S 7.2

What it lacks in square footage, Bellissimo makes up in spirit, showering first-time guests and repeat customers alike with a panoply of Northern Italian delights.
The tightly knit dining room accommodates just shy of two dozen tables, which keeps this family-run enterprise—proprietor Samira Hradsky has brother Dani run the place while she tends to her Parisian cooking school—buzzing most weekends. Then again, perhaps the chairs remain filled because staff bid regulars farewell with enthusiastic handshakes and thunderous pats on the back.

Each visit begins with a basket of crusty bread and individual saucers of nutty olive oil heaped with fresh grated parmesan. Daily specials abound, including fresh seafood offerings and signature pastas along with standard chicken, veal and beef selections. One tantalizing opener summons a crispy shingle of Parmesan capped with chilled peppers and piles of shaved prosciutto. A quartet of plump scallops are seared to a crisp and covered in a wonderfully grainy pesto sauce. Twin cuts of garlicky tenderloin are stacked sky-high atop a foundation of sautéed spinach and wine-soaked mushrooms. Meanwhile, a five-course menu gastronomic (approximately $100 per couple) gives the chef carte blanche over the entire meal. And no visit is complete without a round of complimentary digestifs.

Dream menu
Appetizer Pesto sea scallops     
Entrée Marinated beef tenderloin
Dessert Raspberry sorbet

Café Renaissance
163 Glyndon Street, Vienna; 703-938-3311
Traditional European $$$
F 7.3   A 8.1   S 8.0

It is astonishing how adept perfectly charming neighborhood eateries are at hiding right out in the open. And it is even more amazing when the locale consistently prepares gourmet cuisine and lavishes attention on its customers—as is routinely the case at the underappreciated Café Renaissance.

Classic paintings adorn a tastefully decorated dining area featuring just a handful of tables, most of which are claimed by long-time customers. Nattily dressed staff (looking sharp in vests, bowties and sometimes full suits) casually tick off a wealth of daily specials from memory, offer recommendations with ease and compliment each guests’ dining selections.

The menu reflects strong Gallic and Roman influences, although staff do their best to accommodate any special requests. A trio of jumbo shrimp smothered in curry cream, or crispy scallops in a citrus beurreblanc whet the appetite. Brandy-infused veal paired with tart apples is French to the core, as is a plate of calves’ liver in a red wine reduction. Fresh monkfish ensconced in garlic and mushrooms is superb, while rainbow trout gets dressed with asparagus, crab and plenty of hollandaise.

Dream menu
Appetizer Shrimp in curry cream
Entrée Rainbow trout Oscar
Dessert Zabaglione and fresh berries

Yohai’s Wine Picks
Red BOTTLE: 2001 Rion Vosne Romanée 1er Cru “Les Chaumes”
White BOTTLE: 2001 Shafer Chardonnay

Claiborne’s
200 Lafayette Boulevard, Fredericksburg; 540-371-7080
Contemporary Southern $$$
F 8.1   A 7.3   S 8.0

A Southern respite accessible by car or rail, Claiborne’s comforts weary travelers with authentic low-country fare.

The bright red brick building rests beneath an active commuter and cargo railway line (don’t mind the occasional rumbling). The interior resembles a fanciful old rail car, boasting a minuscule lounge at one end and a fairly accommodating central dining room.

Polite young servers in starched white shirts and dark aprons dispense hospitality and friendly advice with the utmost ease. Meanwhile, homeward-bound commuters get their dose of daily affirmation from grinning bartenders with charm to spare.

Quick bites include homemade crab dip cut with horseradish or a tasty chicken salad melt. Crawfish casserole gets buried under too much molten cheese but is salvaged by some jolly sweet potato hush puppies. Traditional shrimp and grits—available as both an appetizer or a full meal—brings jumbo shrimp, smoked sausage and mushrooms in soupy grits that are not quite perfect (I prefer a finer grind), but still better than most. Noteworthy closers include a decadent caramel-chocolate cake draped in fudge and crunchy pecans as well as key lime pie.

Dream menu
Appetizer Fried green tomato tower
Entrée Shrimp and grits platter
Dessert Chocolate turtle cake

Yohai’s Wine Picks
Red BOTTLE: 1997 Flora Springs Trilogy
White BOTTLE: 1997 Louis Latour Chassagne-Montrachet

Foti’s
219 E. Davis Street, Culpeper; 540-829-8400
Intercontinental $$$
F 8.8   A 8.6   S 8.5

Establishing a restaurant invariably requires some luck. Of course, it never hurts to have talented staff, ambitious owners and an inscrutable pedigree on your side—a dream scenario that has propelled Foti’s to the top of the local dining scene in near-record time.

The comfortable locale combines the best of fine dining (innovative wine list, adventurous cuisine) with small town charm (lax dress code, rustic decor). The fledgling operation is overseen by a group of alums from the renowned Inn at Little Washington, including Frank Maragos (chef/owner), Sue Wilson (manager), Tyler Packwood (sommelier) and Jenna Ortner (pastry chef). But don’t expect much of a floor show, because this place is all about the food.

The much lauded fried egg sandwich bears toasted ciabatta topped with country ham, shaved Parmesan and a sunny-looking egg anxious to soak everything through with its quivering yolk. Vanilla lobster propped atop syrup-drenched corn cakes unite the South and sea brilliantly. Roast chicken bears a crispy hummus coating while basking in a pool of citrus-herb bliss. Elsewhere, a Greek surf-and-turf plate heaps jumbo shrimp over a juicy filet baked in a fabulous Byzantine sauce (teaming with tomatoes, lobster stock and herbs).

Dream menu
Appetizer Vanilla lobster with Johnny Cakes
Entrée Surf and turf à la Greque
Dessert Chocolate pots de crème

Yohai’s Wine Picks
Red BOTTLE: 2001 Château Palmer “Alter Ego” Margaux
White BOTTLE: 2002 Domaine Roulot “Les Meix Chavaux” Meursault

The Grille at Morrison House
116 S. Alfred Street, Alexandria; 703-838-8000
Seasonal American $$$
F8.0   A 8.4   S 8.0

A popular anniversary destination, the Grille at Morrison House is all about presentation and imagination. If only flawless execution always followed.

Guests can opt for the plush, leather bound chairs in the jazzier rear dining area or the more formal environs of the whitewashed front dining room. Chef Jay Cox’s menu rotates with the seasons, but typically follows a standard four-course progression.

Onion soup always summons a steaming cauldron filled with ropey onions and bubbling Gruyère. Homemade ceviche is attractive but somewhat boring; fish is fresh enough but the diced onions and peppers are not as zesty as the traditional citrus salad served at local Latin eateries. A plate of dried chorizo rounds tucked into a welcoming bed of savory polenta—a delicious foil for the robust sausage—is a spicy-smooth symphony of delights. Chilled foie gras would fall short but for a squiggle of liquid raspberry, while duck confit ravioli works like magic. Elsewhere, an intriguing orange zest risotto braces tender Alaskan black cod. Braised short ribs are riveting, whereas a sizeable N.Y. strip is occasionally spoiled by too much time on the grill.

Dream menu
Appetizer Chorizo and polenta
Entrée Wild fish special
Dessert Seasonal cheese plate

Morgan’s Wine Picks
Red GLASS: 2000 Château Haut-Bernat Puissegin-Saint-Emilion  BOTTLE: 1995 Château Chasse-Spleen Moulis en Médoc
White GLASS: 2002 Jean-Baptiste Adam Riesling Reserve  BOTTLE: 2001 Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet

La Bergerie
218 N. Lee Street, Alexandria; 703-683-1007
Traditional French $$$$
F 8.3   A 8.1   S 8.3

Few restaurants exude as much character and class as La Bergerie, an intimate hideaway on the outskirts of Old Town Alexandria.

Magnums of Champagne and fresh-cut flowers adorn a dining area typically littered with girlfriends gossiping over wine or couples enjoying a night on the town. Servers remove tables so patrons can slide into padded sweetheart booths, and every dish is delivered with an emphatic “bon appétit.” And a basket of complimentary toiletries make freshening up in the bathroom a breeze.

A static two-course lunch deal includes a main course and either an appetizer or a dessert for $20. Noteworthy starters include a cheesy French onion soup, fresh Caesar salad (prepared tableside) or a sharp mango, avocado and jumbo lump crab creation. Roast monkfish has a pleasing crust but moist center, while a pork platter—huge chop is satisfying, crispy pork belly fizzles a bit, while the blood sausage registers somewhere between pâté and blood pudding—gets a hand from a bed of buttery lentils. Other entrées range from Provençal (crab-stuffed dorade in a Pernod sauce) to pastoral (elk chops with cherries).

Dream menu
Appetizer Homemade Caesar salad
Entrée Pork chop/pork belly/blood sausage trio
Dessert Café gourmand

Morgan’s Wine Picks
Red BOTTLE: 2001 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Murgers
White BOTTLE: 2001 Henri Boillot Meursault Les Cras

L’Auberge Chez Francois
332 Springvale Road, Great Falls; 703-759-3800
Contemporary French $$$$
F 8.6   A 8.4   S 8.8

Between the twinkling Christmas lights and the steady stream of patrons carrying bright floral bouquets and beautifully wrapped packages, it’s a wonder L’Auberge Chez Francois has not challenged Disneyland for the title of “happiest place on earth.”

Inside the rustic château awaits an overly gracious staff ready to preside over the nightly parade of anniversary couples and celebratory groups. Why all the fuss? Because devoted patrons know the food will be great, the service comforting and the complimentary cookies and chocolates that close out every meal fabulous.
Most evenings feature a pick-your-own five-course adventure, with a handful of dinner specials thrown in for good measure. A seasonal amusé (fresh quiche is an eggy-herby masterpiece) provides a warm welcome from the kitchen. A collection of smoked fish challenges the palette, while a puff pastry filled with a delectable stew of chicken, veal and mixed vegetables warms from within. A veal, country ham and crab plate gets finished with a silky Madeira cream. Meanwhile, the aptly named Alsatian feast delivers plenty of savory duck, mouthwatering foie gras, homemade sausage and fresh sauerkraut.

Dream menu
Appetizer Seafood bouillabaisse
Entrée Alsatian feast
Dessert Cheese plate and Port

Morgan’s Wine Picks
L’Auberge Chez Francois declined to share their wine list due to length (over 200 wines).

Lightfoot
11 N. King Street, Leesburg; 703-771-2233
Intercontinental $$$
F 8.7   A 8.8   S 8.6

The tellers may be gone and the vault empty. Still, people appear quite comfortable leaving their money at Lightfoot in Leesburg, a former bank turned repository of wondrous tastes.

Traces of bank security remain—mammoth locks serve as the backdrop for the bar and iron bars still cover the front windows—but everyone is welcome here. In fact, it’s customary to see suit-clad patrons dining beside locals in denim and cowboy hats. Youngish servers in monogrammed aprons add a dash of polish, but stumble from time to time when describing exotic ingredients or unfamiliar daily specials.

Executive chef and co-owner Ingrid Gustavson fancies fresh seafood and refuses to bow to market inferiority; a waiter counsels against ordering the trout one night because Gustavson “wasn’t happy with it, so she sent it back.” Crab appears nightly as “atomic” cakes (superb) and sometimes as a daily special (a creative Tandoori soft shell number). “The Plank” assembles spicy scallops (best), smoked salmon (very good) and roasted sausage (tasty) cooked atop a seasoned cedar plank. Beefier alternatives include a signature meatloaf sandwich, a respectable filet mignon and a stunning Tuscan rib eye.

Dream menu
Appetizer “The Plank”
Entrée “Atomic” crab cakes
Dessert Peanut butter torte

Morgan’s Wine Picks
Red GLASS: 2004 Mark West Pinot Noir BOTTLE: 1999 Pieri Brunello di Montalcino
White GLASS: 2004 Dr Loosen Riesling BOTTLE: 2003 Jean-Claude Bachelet Puligny-Montrachet

Palm Court at Westfields
14750 Conference Center Drive, Chantilly; 703-818-3520
Contemporary American $$$
F8.3   A 8.4   S 8.2

Rather than succumb to the temptation to become just another corporate cafeteria, the Palm Court staff continues to reach out to local diners with intriguing cuisine and a wealth of brunch options.

The expansive restaurant sits at the center of a sprawling suburban conference center (looks like a college campus). There are private dining rooms for visiting groups, and perfectly accomodating chairs in the main dining area for relaxing after a long day on the links. Meanwhile, the better than average menu provides several worthwhile options.

One evening’s amusé of seared tuna drizzled with balsamic is well intentioned but poorly executed (dries out the mouth). Better to start with lobster bisque that is easy on the butter, or the bounty of mussels doused in vermouth, onion and dried lemon zest. Orechiette pasta tossed with grilled chicken, ham and broccoli rabe, gets finished with a velvety cream sauce. A well-marbled and very juicy buffalo filet gets done up with a chili-cumin crust and a prismatic arrangement of purple mashed potatoes, ripe avocado and yellow tomatoes. Sunday brunch brings all-you-can-drink champagne, an impressive array of smoked fish, prime rib and a sinful dessert spread.

Dream menu
Appetizer Mussels Cinzano
Entrée Chile encrusted buffalo
Dessert Bailey’s chocolate torte

Morgan’s Wine Picks
Red GLASS: 1999 La Gerla Birba BOTTLE: 1999 Château Talbot Saint-Julien
White GLASS: 2002 Glen Carlou Chardonnay BOTTLE: 2001 Château Margaux Pavillon Blanc

Patowmack Farm
42461 Lovettsville Road, Lovettsville; 540-822-9017
Seasonal American $$$$
F 8.8   A 8.6   S 8.5

Patowmack Farm’s farm-to-table conceit is much more than a gimmick. It’s a mantra.

Owner Beverly Billand welcomes you to her au natural dining area and often pops by to point out some of her four-legged neighbors (wandering deer and inquisitive raccoons guest star). In the distance, the Potomac rolls past a moonlit bridge while amorous crickets flood the night with music.

The unique “Dinner in the Garden” service—offered Thursday through Saturday—provides a five-course banquet tied to the farm’s harvest (expect sweeping changes about every six weeks), as well as a seven-course tasting menu designed by chef Christian Evans.

A nest of shrimp “noodles” inhabits a seafood broth punctuated by a spicy aioli. Surf and turf Caesar summons garlic calamari, bundled prosciutto, stacks of crisp romaine and buttons of homemade dressing (black pepper pokes through). A mini steak-and-egg balancing act (fantastic) gets showered with crumbled Shiitake “bacon” bits. Elsewhere, a soft shell crab cake sandwich comes with “Bay fries”—the breaded crab legs ride shotgun—and a forceful mango slaw.

Dream menu
Appetizer Surf and turf Caesar
Entrée Bison with blue cheese croquettes
Dessert Pineapple upside down cake

McGrath’s Wine Picks
Red BOTTLE: 2002 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon
White BOTTLE: 2004 Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc

Restaurant Eve
110 S. Pitt Street, Alexandria; 703-706-0450
Seasonal American $$$$
F 9.5   A 9.0   S 9.1

A gourmet paradise hidden down an inconspicuous alley, Restaurant Eve rewards intrepid diners with brazen cooking and illogical deals.

The converted Alexandria row house is split into a plush bar/lounge area (plenty of ottomans and sofa benches for unwinding after work), the “Bistro” (main dining room) and chef Cathal Armstrong’s luxurious “Tasting Room” (prix fixe showcase). No matter where you land, expect to be coddled by servers well versed in every facet of the restaurant.

At lunch, look no further than the “lickety split” deal—a choice of any two daily Bistro items for a paltry $13.50—the equivalent of a gourmet happy meal.

The Bistro menu changes monthly, while tasting room guests indulge in five- or nine-course gastronomic tours that mutate daily.

The “Irish BLT” brings slabs of country ham on grilled toast that simulates pressed butter (fantastic). Whipped brie and hazelnuts in lavender honey could double as dessert. Oven-baked Mediterranean turbot is a flaky masterpiece. Roast quail accompanied by foie gras and fava beans dazzles. A quartet of spring lamb shank, loin, sausage and liver shares the stage with ramps and goat cheese panna cotta (mesmerizing).

Dream menu
Appetizer Hogs head burger
Entrée Vadon Farm lamb sampler
Dessert 1000 leaves of chocolate

McGrath’s Wine Picks
Red BOTTLE: 2002 Rudi Schultz Syrah
White BOTTLE: 2004 Alphonse Mellot “La Moussière” Sauvignon Blanc

Ristorante Bonaroti
428 E. Maple Avenue, Vienna; 703-281-7550
Traditional Italian $$
F 7.8   A 7.7   S 8.2

A sentimental favorite that could easily double as the backdrop for a Soprano sit-down, Ristorante Bonaroti remains steeped in tradition but appears unafraid of innovation.

The wooden chairbacks are worn from years of being held for arriving guests, whereas the art deco silverware displays modern sensibility. Tuxedo-clad servers tirelessly roam the splashy pink main dining room, as well as the namesake Michelangelo room. Workhorses accustomed to jotting orders on old school notepads and dispensing grated Parmesan as needed, they even came to the rescue with club soda one evening when a runaway noodle threatened to ruin my suit (much obliged).
The menu boasts a litany of homemade pastas and assorted poultry or veal dishes, while daily specials tilt more toward fresh seafood (including treasures like swordfish, grouper, soft shell crabs and salmon). Just about every dish can be downsized into an appetizer, or fire up your appetite with stuffed noodle rings in a fragrant chicken broth. A veal and lobster pairing brings pounded veal topped with nuggets of rich lobster meat. Elsewhere, the Barolo lamb yields three delicious chops in an engaging red wine sauce.

Dream menu
Appetizer Any sausage pasta special
Entrée Agnello al Barolo
Dessert Gelato combination

McGrath’s Wine Picks
Red BOTTLE: Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco
White BOTTLE: MacRostie Chardonnay Carneros

Russia House
790 Station Street, Herndon; 703-787-8880
Traditional Russian $$$
F 8.3   A 7.4   S 7.3

A suburban hideaway where corporate execs hold court at lunch and families and friends congregate each evening, the Russia House provides fine dining in a relaxed atmosphere.

The spacious main dining room appears to span the length of the building and boasts aesthetic touches like historic murals on the walls, classical music in the background and a roomy wood bar adorned with authentic Russian matryoshka (nesting dolls). A word of warning: the expansive dining area can muddle service at off-peak times, particularly when lone servers get stuck shuttling between distant tables.

Top tier starters include an array of American and Russian caviars, whereas the more cost-conscious may prefer standards like homemade borscht. An order of pirozhki brings a trio of puff pastries covered with a smear of cheese and filled with seasoned ground beef, diced cheese and sour cabbage (all quite warming). A Cornish game hen is flattened on the grill so the skin crackles while the meat remains moist; the rustic dish is finished off with a brown butter wine sauce and scalloped potatoes. Other notable standards include steak tartare, an aromatic lamb/feta/pasta casserole, salmon in a champagne-caviar sauce and beef-stuffed cabbage leaves.

Dream menu
Appetizer Pirozhki sampler
Entrée Chicken Tapaka
Dessert White chocolate mousse cake

McGrath’s Wine Picks
Red BOTTLE: Stags’ Leap Petite Syrah
White BOTTLE: Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc

Serbian Crown
1141 Walker Road, Great Falls; 703-759-4150
French/Russian $$$
F8.1   A 7.7   S 7.1

A nocturnal trip to the Serbian Crown—a longstanding dining mecca with a flair for the dramatic—virtually guarantees an evening of high-energy entertainment and exotic cuisine.

Twirling gypsy dancers put a Russian stamp on regular happy hour, while a slew of elaborate desserts—including cherries jubilee, peach flambé or the crowd-pleasing baked Alaska—bid dinner patrons a fiery farewell. Czarist portraits frame a traditional dining room that spills out into an inviting sunroom, while the restaurant’s coat of arms hangs prominently in the often raucous piano bar.

Specialty deals abound, including an expedited four-course lunch offering ($17 for soup, appetizer, your choice of entree and a dessert) as well as semi-flexible five-course dinner programs for individuals and couples ($36 and $109, respectively). A satisfying plate of Russian hors d’oeuvres (zakuska) summons a mix of cured meats, smoked fish and pickled mushrooms. An order of wild boar yields juicy medallions of pork in savory brown gravy spiked with Madeira wine. Other traditional dishes includes beef stroganoff, sultry chicken Kiev, boneless rabbit in a sour cream sauce and grilled salmon. À la carte diners can also splurge on imported caviars.

Dream menu
Appetizer Zakuska plate
Entrée Marinated wild boar
Dessert Cherries Jubilee

McGrath’s Wine Picks
Red BOTTLE: Château Carbonnieux Blanc

Tachibana
6715 Lowell Avenue, McLean; 703-847-1771
Japanese $$
F 8.2   A 6.2   S 6.7

Before the advent of open kitchens or chef’s tables, there was the traditional sushi counter. And few places are livelier or more appetizing than the sushi showplace that is Tachibana.

Injecting just a touch of the Orient into suburbia, the half-moon shaped dining room is typically overrun by Japanese families and sushi-loving Westerners who crowd in for lunch and dinner. Quite often your best bet is to just grab a stool at the expansive sushi bar.

No assembly-line tactics or pre-rolled packaging here. The password is “fresh.” Dutiful sushi chefs seek out the raw ingredients for each dish only after you order, gingerly slicing exotic fish, eel, octopus and sea urchins to custom tailor each selection.

Accordingly, seafood items are the main attraction. A sake-marinated mackerel finished on the grill starts things off with a bang. Crispy soft shell crabs—a seasonal specialty, so get’em while you can!—are accompanied by a bevy of batter-fried vegetables. Sushi and sashimi favorites include surf clams, butterflied shrimp and spicy scallops. Or indulge in the complex flavors of the traditional clay pot meals.

Dream menu
Appetizer Sushi special of the day
Entrée Soft shell crab tempura
Dessert Green tea ice cream

McGrath’s Wine Picks
Red BOTTLE: 2003 Bourassa Odyssey3 Zinfandel
White GLASS: Choya Plum Wine

Zeffirelli Ristorante Italiano
728 Pine Street, Herndon; 703-318-7000
Traditional Italian $$
F8.1   A 7.7   S 7.9

A sign declaring “Bienvenuto Amici”—an informal hello welcoming everyone to the table—greets visitors to this homey trattoria.

A cozy respite with an almost instantly familiar feel to it, Zeffirelli displays the trappings of a classic Italian restaurant. Servers float about the main dining room chatting with their charges, while the aroma of roast garlic and white wine perfumes the air.

Savory starters include a serving of spicy sausage roasted with peppers and onions, and shrimp Zeffirelli, a trio of bacon-wrapped shrimp bathed in a light lemon-herb sauce. Feeling peckish? Try the grilled chicken, asparagus and sun-dried tomatoes over pasta, or reel in salmon in a zesty pink peppercorn sauce. If it’s unbridled flavor you crave, request the house veal chop—a bone-in monster (16 glorious ounces) still dripping with natural juices. In fact, ALWAYS ask if the chop is making a surprise lunchtime appearance.

A mountain of vanilla ice cream steeped in lemon liqueur unites nightcap and dessert in one. Or extend your stay with some biscotti and a warming Vin Santo or Verduzzo (high-octane dessert wines).

Dream menu
Appetizer Salisicce alla San Genaro
Entrée Veal chop
Dessert Tartufo al Limoncello

McGrath’s Wine Picks
Red BOTTLE: 2003 Feudi di San Gregorio “Rubrato” Anglianico
White BOTTLE: 1998 Ferrari Brut Perlé

(August 2006)

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Tags: best restaurants

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