June 26: Your Sunday Afternoon Guide

Posted by clara / Wednesday, June 15th, 2011

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

It’s not too early to start planning (and saving up for) that perfect day out with your special someone. We took a look at some of the best events happening in the Arlington area, and figured out an itinerary for the day. Mark your calendar because June 26 has events you won’t want to miss.

From 11:30 a.m. – 1:30 p.m., eat the best pie a la mode you ever had… because you made it yourself. Sur La Table is giving lessons on how to make pie dough from scratch and how to get your ice cream to the perfect, well, cream. The menu of the day includes: nectarine-blackberry galette, peach-ginger pie with almond crumble, salted caramel ice cream and strawberry-mascarpone ice cream. The cost is $69 per ticket.

But what better way to top off dessert than to go see a show? Just down the road starting at 2 p.m. is the Synetic Theater’s Don Quixote. Reviews are celebrating this production and the actors for their “soul engaging performances” and “darkly brilliant personifications.” The heart-wrenching story’s is retold in a combination of dance, lighting, costume and music, and costs $25-$50 per ticket.

Interested in the development of Columbia Pike? They’ve got an open design studio from 1 p.m – 6 p.m. at Penrose Square off of Barton Street. You’ll have just enough time to head over an give your input after the show.

But where to get dinner? Surely you’ll be hungry after your adventures. Eventide Restaurant has just opened their roof and lounge for Sunday dinners. Chef Adam is also going to offer Sunday Specials. This starts at 4 p.m., but if  you want to stop by the Columbia Pike project, then you’re ETA will be closer to 6 or 6:30 p.m. Dish prices vary, from $5 to $40.

Whether you take the day as a whole or in bits and pieces, we hope you enjoy some of these Arlington treats!

–Clara Ritger

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50 Best Restaurants

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, December 3rd, 2008

By Warren Rojas / Photography by Hana Jung, James Kim and Jonathan Timmes

A cavalcade of fresh faces, adventurous cuisines and awe-inspiring environs joins the ranks of our annual fine-dining round-up this year—bumping our epicurean who’s who to twice its original size (now boasting 50 unbeatable restaurants you don’t want to miss).

The competition was fierce. The evaluation process grueling (think back-to-back-to-back meals).

Along the way we got better acquainted with some of the area’s top toques. More importantly, we learned more about how you, our readers, make everyday dining decisions.

 

Sette Bello
3101 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-351-1004; www.settebellorestaurant.com
Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily; Sunday brunch.
$$ FOOD: 7.4   AMBIANCE: 7.1   SERVICE: 6.4

“This is actually my favorite table. You can see everything from here,” the manager shares as she slides us into one of the corner perches at the social hub that is Sette Bello—a hipster magnet powered by local dining impresario Franco Nuschese (the mastermind behind D.C.’s Café Milano and Sette Osteria).

Floor-to-ceiling windows ensure that those who come to be seen are—leaving passersby to gaze in longingly at the feasting and frivolity taking place within. Sunken sofas opposite the bar are ideal thrones for oversized personalities come to play. Elsewhere, curvy booths hugging a far wall in the main dining room provide a hint of privacy for more bashful guests.

Bruschetta can be crowned with everything from fresh ricotta (creamtacular) to an exhilarating prosciutto-fig jam duet (cured ham and spicy preserves absolutely sing).  Grilled octopus (their tiny bodies infused with smoke) and tender coils of scorched calamari turn seafood salad into a star attraction. Cream-soaked shells play host to savory ground pork (awash in caraway and pepper) and meaty sauteed mushrooms.

Highs: Quattro formaggi pie
Lows: disappearing servers
Share: fettucine alla boscaiola
Savor: Borlotti-stocked pasta e fagioli

 

Meaza
5700 Columbia Pike, Falls Church; 703-820-2870; www.meazaethiopiancuisine.com
Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.
$ FOOD: 7.0   AMBIANCE: 6.7   SERVICE: 5.8

Granted, raw beef and exotic spices may not be for everyone. But those who treasure the allure of warm dough, chilled meats and fiery sauces never need fear walking away from Meaza unsatisfied.

Injera queen Meaza Zemedu decided to consolidate her local power base—until recently, she had been supplying many local Ethiopian restaurants with their porous, utilitarian bread—by opening her eponymous cafe and market.

Inside, sand-colored walls and plaid-upholstered chairs suggest calm, while detailed portraits of revered Ethiopian leaders cast on stretched animal skins are equally patriotic and provocative.

The menu features mostly beef and lamb preparations, with a few safety dishes (spaghetti, mixed proteins and rice) thrown in for good measure.

Fit-fit (diced tenderloin) is sauteedwith hot peppers, tomatoes, onions and torn injera, until everything is coated in fiery berbere paste. Doro wot yields more adrenaline-producing fare—“This is really, really good,” one guest sputtered as I watched beads of sweat collect across his brow—tempered by stewed chicken legs and preserved eggs (potent stuff).

Highs: doro wot
Lows: generic desserts
Share: lamb short ribs
Savor: special kitfo

 

fyve
1250 S. Hayes St., Arlington; 703-412-2760; www.ritzcarlton.com
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, Sunday brunch.
$$$ FOOD: 8.1   AMBIANCE: 7.9   SERVICE: 8.4

The student is indeed becoming a master over at fyve, as Roberto Donna protege Amy Brandwein (for a mini-profile, see pg. 62) carves out a place for herself among the area’s marquee chefs with a bold Mediterranean vision.

The reconditioned property (Brandwein was brought in to revamp the Ritz-Carlton’s sputtering Grille concept) mostly services business travelers, but appears to be making inroads with nostalgic locals as well.

During one visit, confirmed regulars didn’t just greet their waiter, they celebrated his arrival—“Maurice! How are you?” the pair gushed upon spotting a familiar server—and then quickly begin comparing notes about the new restaurant (they were both impressed).

Grilled octopus tastes of sea and smoke, while cherry tomatoes supply tart freshness. A signature salmon dish summons roast fish (anise and cinnamon shine through) parked atop a checkerboard of black and white lentils (pretty, but otherwise bland). Pasta with pancetta, mushrooms and sweetbreads comes two-thirds of the way through (broad noodles fold over on themselves, creating jolly pockets of pancetta au jus; ill-prepared sweetbreads elicit doughy nothingness).

Highs: fontina-stuffed rabbit
Lows: over-hyped spaghetti squash gratin
Share: broccoli-sausage orechiette
Savor: lemon chicken

 

Rangoli
24995 Riding Plaza, #120, South Riding; 703-957-4900; www.rangolirestaurant.us
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
$$ FOOD: 7.1   AMBIANCE: 7.4   SERVICE: 7.2

Rangoli general manager Sam Santosh can’t seem to get in a word edgewise.

He’s trying desperately to steer a pair of regulars towards unexplored dishes, but the woman simply won’t stop gushing about her go-to favorites.

“I love all the different flavors,” the loyal patron exclaims. “That’s why we keep coming back.”

Repeat business is a nice problem to have—and it’s one that the entire Rangoli staff seems to wholeheartedly welcome regularly.

Fresh-baked naan is delivered to every table until patrons say halt. Golden cubes of homemade cheese are sauteed with peppers and onions for a fiery vegetarian fix. Tandoori salmon is flavor simplified, delivering a mouthwatering filet of yogurt-bathed fish. Hot pepper-rubbed chicken (hirayali kebab) brings white-meat chicken stained green with mint and cilantro (fragrant and hot).

Highs: robust vegetarian curries
Lows: excessively fatty lamb chops
Share: homemade paneer
Savor: Tandoori salmon

 

The Majestic
911 King St., Alexandria; 703-837-9117; www.majesticcafe.com
Open for lunch Monday through Saturday, dinner daily.
$$ FOOD: 8.3   AMBIANCE: 7.6   SERVICE: 7.4

On any given night, the Majestic’s mod dining room is packed with multi-generational families, relaxing boomers and, increasingly, youngish chowhounds—no doubt training their palates for meals to come at elder statesman, Restaurant Eve.

Executive chef Shannon Overmiller (for a mini-profile, see pg. 78) and her team adhere to the same strict standards as Eve, albeit in a much looser setting (think T-shirts and jeans, but fine-dining protocol).

The addition of “the royal pick” lunch special (any menu item and soda for $12, bar only) is a terrific loyalty-builder. And in a move I hope to see replicated everywhere, staff have abandoned the high-end hydration push, offering ice water as the first best option above bottled fare.

Fried green tomatoes streaked with goat cheese and nestled atop savory tomato jam and sweet corn relish signal the best of summer. The house chicken scores big with a roast breast (rife with butter, herbs and lemon) and comfit leg duo, but dry-ish potatoes disappoint. Caramelized key lime pie sports a lime-spiked center and cracker-y crust.

Highs: from-scratch cocktails
Lows: watery milkshakes
Share: triple-layer cake of the day
Savor: Chesapeake-style stew

 

Patowmack Farm
42461 Lovettsville Road, Lovettsville; 540-822-9017; www.patowmackfarm.com
Open for dinner, Thursday through Saturday; weekend brunch.
$$$ FOOD: 8.8   AMBIANCE: 8.8   SERVICE: 8.6

One night, the tranquility of Patowmack Farm’s au naturale dining room was shattered by the conspiratorial chatter of guilt-ridden patrons determined to keep their unscheduled visit from a forgotten friend.

“I don’t think we should tell her we came here today,” one woman suggested.

Sorry, ladies. The secret’s out.

Culinary purist Christian Evans (for a mini-profile, see pg. 69) keeps pushing the envelope of the farm-to-fork movement with each passing harvest, conducting local cheeses, humanely raised proteins and just-plucked vegetables into a symphony of natural delights.

Mixed greens are enlivened by blueberry vinaigrette and cheery marigolds. Luscious veal shares the spotlight with herb-roasted potatoes and wild mushrooms (big flavors, all around). An espresso cake—forged from handcrafted ingredients supplied by a local chocolatier—arrives bathed in blueberry compote (syrupy pods burst with flavor), crème anglaise and cinnamon crumbs (irresistibly rich).

Highs: farm-fresh everything
Lows: bungled drink orders
Share: herb-laced breads
Savor: seared veal loin

 

Zum Rheingarten
3998 Jefferson Davis Highway, Stafford; 703-221-4635; www.zumrheingarten.com
Open for dinner, Wednesday through Sunday.
$$$ FOOD: 6.9   AMBIANCE: 7.3   SERVICE: 6.6

Visit Stafford hideaway, Zum Rheingarten, more than once, and you’ll no doubt start to spot familiar faces.

And I’m not just talking about caretakers Jannec and Katherine Hornig (he’s the executive chef; she’s the general manager). It’s the recidivist families that seem content to spend every weekend feasting within the same four walls.

And who can blame them?

A creamy brew of tender potatoes and salty kielbasa is guaranteed to ward off any winter chill. Jumbo bratwurst summons a savory-sweet link of homemade sausage that makes American dogs seem toothless. Pork Wellington yields ham-wrapped tenderloin baked within phyllo (succulent meat, flaky dough) and accompanied by bacon-topped mashed potatoes (three shades of swine = one happy camper).

Highs: tall mugs of Spaten Optimator
Lows: fighting Route 1 traffic
Share: Rheingarten kaseplatte
Savor: wiener schnitzel a la Holstein

The Dock at Lansdowne
19286 Promenade Drive, #P-101, Leesburg; 571-333-4747; www.thedockatlansdowne.com
Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily, Sunday brunch.
$$ FOOD: 7.0   AMBIANCE: 7.1   SERVICE: 6.9

A welcome port for post-work revelers, The Dock appears to be a hands-down favorite among Lansdowne residents.

The restaurant originally built up a loyal following with its happy-hour specials (discount snacks, cut-rate martinis) and has since solidified its base with rotating nightly specials (pasta, prime rib, lobster).

Perhaps more importantly, staff stays alert when menu items seem to falter—as was the case when one server instinctively struck a half-eaten bisque from our bill “because it didn’t seem like it was up to par” (my guest later confided that it was a tad cold).

Fried shrimp arrive drizzled in tangy-fresh chili-lime sauce. Homemade crab cakes taste of jumbo lump, eggs and a touch of baked cheese (quite tasty). Grilled pork chops, on the other hand, are big, but terribly plain.

Highs: catching the early-bird specials
Lows: too few barstools
Share: fried buttermilk shrimp
Savor: hickory-grilled  salmon

The Grille at Morrison House
116 S. Alfred St., Alexandria; 703-838-8000; www.morrisonhouse.com
Open for breakfast and dinner daily, Sunday brunch.
$$$$ FOOD: 8.9   AMBIANCE: 8   SERVICE: 8.4

Rather than divorcing the two, executive chef Dennis Marron seems determined to mix business with pleasure—tempting Morrison House’s globe-trotting clientele with his epicurean artistry.

Hidden within a boutique hotel, the Grille pulls no punches on pricing (expense accounts help). Still, the menu has enough built-in flexibility—including three-, five- or six-course tasting menus (wine pairings are $20, $30 or $40, respectively), a la carte options and bistro nibbles (truffled fries)—to accommodate curious locals.

A shrimp-salad teaser delivered even shots of sweet meat and fresh dill. Pork cheeks are showered in sweet thanks to a brown-sugar braising and caramelized shallots (sublime). Scallop range from raw (lemon-spritzed crudo) to ravishing (flash seared and enveloped in bacon foam) in four delicious bites. A bison tutorial summons grilled loin meat flanked by smoky homemade sauce and a tartare burger that mimics traditional barbecue (pristine buffalo pulls off a great pulled-pork impression).

Highs: braised pork cheeks
Lows: gummy catfish in muddled gumbo sauce
Share: ingenious dessert medleys
Savor: scallops progression

Claiborne’s
200 Lafayette Blvd., Fredericksburg; 540-371-7080; www.claibornesrestaurant.com
Open for dinner, Tuesday through Sunday.
SSS FOOD: 7.3 AMBIANCE: 7.6 SERVICE: 7.4

“I’m not much of a wine connoisseur,” my obviously green server informs me when I fish for suggestions from Claiborne’s fairly straightforward wine list.

Nothing a few samples of primo wine can’t solve.

Things get somewhat testier another night when I catch a server and her customers commiserating about the dreadfully slow pacing of the meal (“We’re ready for our entrees now,” the couple states. “So am I,” fires back the clearly frustrated/embarrassed server).

Still, Claiborne’s keeps chugging along.

Fried oysters are exalted by zesty green goddess sauce (excellent herbiness). A mixed-seafood grill weaves together crab cake (lemony meat), sauteed shrimp (buttery) and broiled haddock with wild rice and pungent collard greens. Prime rib arrives awash in salty au jus, but devoid of the promised horseradish.

Highs: mid-summer meal on the patio
Lows: bold-faced nametags have got to go
Share: fried oysters
Savor: single-malt scotch selection

 

Bangkok 54
2919 Columbia Pike, Arlington; 703-521-4070; www.bangkok54restaurant.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
$ FOOD: 6.5   AMBIANCE: 6.9   SERVICE: 6.6

Stylish seats and pulse-racing eats are hallmarks at Bangkok 54, a hipster noodle house specializing in tongue-teasing Thai cooking.

Staff looks sharp from season to season (sporting pastel golf shirts in warmer weather, stark black button-ups and vibrant ties during colder months) in an effort to match the trendy decor within (fashionable cushions, overhead spotlights).

Monthly jazz sessions and a sleek bar setup help ensure that even the most timid of diners can enjoy a lengthy visit.

Meanwhile, the tantalizing cooking keeps spice-seeking locals from having to wander too far from home to get their fiery fix.

Breaded catfish tossed with fresh basil, baby corn, hot peppers and eggplant arrives steeped in blistering curry (phenomenally spicy). Batter-fried duck receives the four-alarm treatment courtesy of fresh chili peppers and ample garlic. Slow-roasted pork shows its sweet side beneath a layer of Chinese five-spice, delivering fragrant nuggets of clove, cinnamon and pepper-streaked meat (well-structured dish).

High: special duck roll
Low: deficit of sake-loving companions
Share: chili-soaked larb
Savor: crispy pork belly

 

La Strada
1905 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria; 703-548-2592; www.lastrada-ontheave.com
Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner daily, weekend brunch.
$$ FOOD: 8.1   AMBIANCE: 7.4   SERVICE: 7.1

The space is so small and the business so new, that the waiter thrusts out his hand and offers a booming, “So nice to see you again,” the minute I walk through the front door.

Truth is, I’m just as happy to be back at La Strada—an encore performance for chef/owner Stephen Scott in the neighborhood Italian category (Argia’s was his most recent community dining venture) that’s taken root amongst a revitalized Del Ray.

The quaint establishment boasts a patio and just over a dozen cozy tables sprinkled about the main dining room.

Daily specials often include intimate touches like garden-fresh tomatoes (grown out back) and homemade mozzarella.

An all-encompassing fritto misto turns up deep-fried squid, octopus and even lemons, all liberally sea salted (adds both crunch and zip). Crusty, cubed bread serves as the high-fiber foundation of a salad replete with seared scallops, vinegar-soaked peppers (hot and sweet), red onions, diced tomatoes and capers. Saltimbocca yields veal cutlets wrapped in baked prosciutto, all submerged in puddles of sage, butter and white wine (bellissimo!).

Highs: homegrown tomatoes
Lows: over-mushroomed pasta
Share: panzanella salad
Savor: spicy sausage penne

 

Carlyle
4000 S. 28th St., Arlington (S); 703-931-0777; www.greatamericanrestaurants.com
Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily, weekend brunch.
$$ FOOD: 8   AMBIANCE: 7.6   SERVICE: 7.8

Shortly after an ordering snafu at Carlyle caused some nearby patrons to receive their entrees ahead of a planned appetizer, an apologetic manager swooped in with the comped snack in hand and a chorus of mea culpas.

“We’ll try harder next time, I promise,” he pledged. And that is what’s known around these parts as “GAR star” service.

Local diners have come to expect a lot from the GAR family of restaurants, and most staffers seem all but too happy to live up to the well-deserved hype. One overachiever ticked off his specials with ease, breezily segued into a mini-profile of new daily wine deals (much appreciated), provided regular status reports and checked back like clockwork.

Batter-fried shrimp join diced papaya (mostly sweet), sliced peppers and seasoned noodles in a flashy Asian salad. Lean hanger steak can’t quite hang with other local beef barons, but a side of deep-fried mashed-potato rolls interlaced with pungent blue cheese goes a long way to filling in the cracks. Grilled halibut sizzles astride andouille and crawfish succotash.

Highs: sun-drenched meals on the patio
Lows: staggering beer markups
Share: Tex-Mex eggrolls
Savor: roast chicken in brown butter

 

Restaurant Eve
110 S. Pitt St., Alexandria; 703-706-0450; www.restauranteve.com
Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner, Monday through Saturday.
$$$$ FOOD: 9.2   AMBIANCE: 9.2   SERVICE: 9.2

Restaurant Eve’s official motto is “nourish the palate.”

But the one-dimensional slogan fails to capture the truly restorative nature of a dining experience predicated upon artfully crafted food, unabashedly attentive servers and the lavish little details that make Eve a cherished epicurean paradise.

Chef/owner Cathal Armstrong (for a mini-profile, see pg. 49) has collected enough awards and neighboring properties to warrant the by-BlackBerry-only management style adopted by other celebrity chefs.

Yet there he is in the Eve kitchen, coming in early to inspect the latest haul from the local farmers’ market and staying late to make sure even night owls have a shot at sampling his next great creation.

Chicken-confit salad spreads luxe bird (crackling, brown skin, glistening meat) across mixed greens and julienne tomatoes, tossed with a tomato-basil vinaigrette that’s all acid and flash (glorious). Poached fluke (clean, uncomplicated fish) provides the perfect foil for a cushion of buttery corn veloute and crunchy green beans. Au jus-soaked lamb steak reigns supreme over a landscape of tiny potatoes, caramelized onions and spicy, split sausage.

Highs: lobster garganelli
Lows: gift-free dinners (no amuse or sweets?)
Share: blocks of garrotxa and cashel blue
Savor: lamb steak with merguez

 

Tuscarora Mill
203 Harrison St. S.E., Leesburg; 703-771-9300; www.tuskies.com
Open for lunch and dinner, daily, late-night dining, Monday through Saturday.
$$$ FOOD: 7.2   AMBIANCE: 7.0   SERVICE: 7.1

Most nights, Tuskie’s plays home to local retirees and distinguished professionals looking to mix business with pleasure. But thanks to executive chef Patrick Dinh, the menu remains more daring than mere status quo cooking.

Extended families and casual diners usually lay claim to the mill’s maze of dining rooms. While budding beer connoisseurs seem most content in the laid-back lounge (nearly two dozen handcrafted brews on tap).

Dinh appears to draw inspiration from around the globe, rolling out ambitious daily specials that make the whiffs more painfully obvious.

Fried oysters fizzle beneath a timid sauce that lacks the promised curry punch (much more sweet than savory). Seared scallops fare much better atop a sweet pepper couscous littered with feta, black olives and capers (entrancing). Smoked pork shines beneath a saucy ancho chile glaze.

Highs: adventurous daily specials
Lows: epicurean mismatches
Share: basmati-crusted scallops
Savor: salmon club

 

Rustico
827 Slaters Lane, Alexandria; 703-224-5051; www.rusticorestaurant.com
Open for lunch, Tuesday through Sunday, dinner daily.
$$ FOOD: 8.3   AMBIANCE: 7.8   SERVICE: 7.3

Rustico is raising the bar on everyday beer havens by weaving handcrafted brews, superlative mains and whimsical sweets into a fresh interpretation of fine dining.

Executive chef Frank Morales and beer director Greg Engert are the team to beat in the beer-as-gourmet-dining-bait universe, completing each other’s epicurean sentences—when Morales unveils a crushed ginger snap-crusted foie gras, Engert counters with the perfect Scotch ale—without so much as a stutter. Their passions run so high (Engert has an Orvist Trappist emblem tattooed on his wrist; Morales fought to keep his chef’s tasting bar because “it’s the most logical way for me to get out to talk about the food”), it’s no wonder the pair have been tapped to recreate their magic at D.C.’s forthcoming Birch & Barley/ChurchKey.

Seafood pizza boasts plucky shrimp, diced tomatoes, fontina and a chewy, wood-fired crust. Fried chicken (think ethereal crispiness rather than deliberate crunch) is drizzled with honey and partnered with whip-smart salt-and-peppered beans. A slice of devil’s food is as heavy as Lucifer’s soul, but a clever buttermilk chaser cuts through the sugary decadence.

Highs: grilled watermelon salad
Lows: nearly 400 beers = mucho cab fare
Share: fruity brew pops
Savor: anything short ribs

Chef’s Table
Seats: 2-4
Menu: 7 courses
Scene: snazzy bar stools peering right into the main kitchen
Cost: $98 pp (includes beer pairings)
Reserve: 48 hours in advance

 

Lebanese Taverna
Mulitple NoVa locations; www.lebanesetaverna.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
$$ FOOD: 6.8   AMBIANCE: 6.8   SERVICE: 6.2

With a half-dozen area restaurants now under their belt, it should be safe to crown the Abi-Najm clan as the heavyweight champs of modern mezze.

Although each Lebanese Taverna shop fosters a different look and feel than its siblings—the original Arlington location is all etched glass and historical snapshots, whereas Tysons II showcases faux stone walls and twinkling lanterns—the near-uniform menu allows longstanding Taverna devotees to feast on all their favorites no matter where they might go.

Spice-infused feta (bold cheese gets kicked up a few notches by mint, paprika and black pepper) lights a fire in your belly. Seared lamb is accompanied by a mint-cilantro paste (warm meat, herby coolness work well together) and roast potato spears. Piles of shaved beef take comfort in the company of basmati rice, tahini and garlic puree.

Highs: happening happy-hour crowd
Lows: curt servers
Share: beef shawarma
Savor: shankleesh

 

Ristorante Bonaroti
428 Maple Ave. E., Vienna; 703-281-7550; www.ristorantebonaroti.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
$$$ FOOD: 7.9   AMBIANCE: 7.8   SERVICE: 8.2

Though dressed to the nines in a neatly pressed tuxedo, it’s obvious the waiter is up for some mischief. “Can I complicate things a little?” he coyly inquires before filling our heads with a litany of off-the-menu temptations that spin simple decision-making right out the door.

Welcome to another evening at Ristorante Bonaroti—a fine-dining paradise cum hell for the indecisive.

Each day, the kitchen trots out nearly a dozen rotating appetizer, soup, salad, pasta, fish and meat specials (lots of lobster, monkfish, veal and lamb in play here).

Mozzarella-filled zucchini are fried to a crisp and drizzled with mushroom ragout. Roast rockfish draws strength from zesty peppers and creamy polenta. Mouthwatering veal cutlets are filled with ground veal and mozzarella, rolled up on themselves and smothered in a captivating wine sauce.

 

Da Domenico/ Zeffirelli
Multiple NoVa locations; www.zeffirelliristorante.com
Check locations for times.
$$ FOOD: 7.5   AMBIANCE: 7.0   SERVICE: 7.5

Not to make sweeping generalizations, but Da Domenico and Zeffirelli are more than simpatico establishments that happened to join forces.

They are actually mirror images of one another—at least when viewed through the prism of unparalled veal-chop appreciation.

To be perfectly fair, each of the restaurants beneath the Zeffirelli umbrella harbors its own unique charms (Tysons does veal and pork justice;  Herndon fields better seafood specials) and built-in clienteles. But after making the rounds, it became clear that collectively comparing them as components of a much larger whole made more sense than parsing them separately.

A salad of shaved fennel (mellow, but refreshing), walnuts and goat cheese decorated with pesto dots provides a welcome change from your average mixed/bitter greens fare. The signature veal chop reveals a three-fingers stack of red wine-soaked meat that readily melts across the tongue (potent wine-pepper blend impregnates the tender flesh). Shrimp- and calamari-filled ravioli bathed in lobster cream sauce are a seafood symphony, bar none.

Highs: veal-chop special
Lows: parking shortage at Da Domenico
Share: whopping antipasti plate
Savor: ravioli alla Genovese

 

Yechon
4121 Hummer Road, Annandale; 703-914-4646; www.yechonrestaurant.com
Open 24 hours.
$$ FOOD: 6.6   AMBIANCE: 6.0   SERVICE: 6.0

Some might dismiss the string of neon orange and green lights outside Yechon as so much window dressing. But to ethnic-dining scouts and ravenous night owls, that same pastel glow serves as a beacon for those in search of sustenance during the witching hours.

The all-night venue specializes in Korean barbecue (typically prepared on tabletop grills) and Japanese sushi (hand rolled by dedicated personnel). Crowds tend to skew majority Asian, but the ranks of in-the-know Westerners seem to be growing daily—with good reason.

A scathing codfish-and-tofu soup sweats the toxins right out of you. Short ribs arrive lacquered in a fiery marinade (fresh pepper flakes cling to the grill-marked flesh). A mammoth seafood omelet envelops shrimp, fresh octopus and whole scallions in a crispy shell.

Highs: scoring a hot meal at 3 a.m.
Lows: being snubbed by grumpy servers
Share: bul gogi
Savor: seafood-laden hot pots

 

Daniel  O’Connell’s
112 King St., Alexandria; 703-739-1124; www.danieloconnells.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily, weekend brunch.
$$$ FOOD: 7.7   AMBIANCE: 7.6   SERVICE: 6.9

Though not yet a threat to that other Irish food-slinger further up King, Daniel O’Connell’s has certainly made great strides towards solidifying itself as a respectable dining spot in just a few short years.

The popular gathering place continues to draw its share of jersey-clad expats who’ve come to catch the latest futbol matches. But local professionals are just as likely to conduct unofficial business meetings over proper Guinness pints.

Though owner Mark Kirwan can claim credit for the authentic Irish feel of the place, the contemporary cuisine being spun out of the kitchen is all courtesy of executive chef Colin Abernethy.

Pancetta-wrapped tuna is peppered on top, Italian baconed in the middle and mushroom hashed at its base (each tier more delicious than the last). Pulled pheasant is tossed with candied nuts, goat cheese and dried fruits, and then anointed in bacon-molasses vinaigrette. Pepper-rubbed pork loin joins bonus pulled pork atop buttery wild rice (salt, pepper, fat; this dish has it all).

Highs: pheasant salad
Lows: dry coffeecake
Share: Guinness short ribs
Savor: peppered pork loin

 

Farrah Olivia
600 Franklin St., Alexandria; 703-778-2233; www.farraholiviarestaurant.com
Open for dinner daily and weekend brunch.
$$$ FOOD: 9.1   AMBIANCE: 8.6   SERVICE: 8.5

“No, you order something different so the table gets a little bit  of everything,” the woman chided a companion who even dared consider denying everyone  at their table the opportunity to eat their way around the Farrah Olivia menu by duplicating a fellow hospitality professional’s meal request.

Carefully choreographed dining assignments? Sounds like these folks can’t bear to miss a single morsel that might spring from the mind of the mad genius better known as chef/owner Morou Ouattara.

Though still in its infancy, Ouattara’s Alexandria restaurant has spawned legions of devoted followers anxious to explore his seasonal creations and West African accents.

A chilled watermelon-ginger-lemongrass shooter touches off a series of fireworks across the palate. Twin towers of beef tartare are bridged by micro greens-covered toast points and accompanied by pulverized cream cheese, a faux egg yolk (golden coin bleeds mustard sauce), pickled piquillo peppers (sweet) and a streak of berbere oil (savory runway). Orange-infused salmon (enticing skin) float atop shrimp-tinged yucca couscous, while a chilling mint-pea sauce waits in the wings (gorgeous dish).

Highs: wonton-wrapped organic greens
Lows: shoddily attired servers (stained shirts, missing buttons)
Share: ginger cheesecake
Savor: Manhattan chowder with parsley crumbles

 

Nizam’s
523 Maple Ave. W., Vienna; 703-938-8948
Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday.
$$ FOOD: 7.6   AMBIANCE: 7.4   SERVICE: 7.2

After over three decades in the hospitality game, you might imagine restaurateur Nizam Orguz might be ready to slow down a bit.

Think again.

The always presentable Orguz greets every guest as they cross the threshold into his eponymous Vienna restaurant. And most long-time patrons refuse to leave without a least shaking Orguz’s hand, if not affectionately embracing the well-known host.

The venerable Turk has fostered a loyal following by keeping things intimate (main dining room accommodates maybe a dozen tables), while serving up unabashedly Mediterranean cuisine.

Paprika-sprinkled cheese is melted for easy scooping with toasted pitas. Rotisserie beef is sauteed with pitas and yogurt sauce, then topped with a blistered hot pepper. Seafood casserole layers red snapper, spinach, onions and cream beneath a canopy of au gratin (delicious).

Highs: greeting/farewell from owner Nizam Orguz
Lows: dodging kitchen staff to reach the restroom
Share: kasar sahanda
Savor: red snapper a la Bosphorus

 

Serbian  Crown
1141 Walker Road, Great Falls; 703-759-4150; www.serbiancrown.com
Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday.
$$$ FOOD: 7.4   AMBIANCE: 7.5   SERVICE: 7.1

Showmanship remains the Serbian Crown’s saving grace, a bastion of continental cuisine and exotic game.

Proprietor Rene Bertagna remains intimately connected to his restaurant, greeting guests with a welcoming smile and playful entreaties to become better versed in the pleasures of chilled vodka (the bar stocks a dizzying array of top-shelf spirits).

Reduced traffic seems to have force staff reductions at lunch, an ill-advised move given the need for expediency if one wishes to take full advantage of the three- and four-course prix-fixe deals ($19.95 and $29.95, respectively; feature many of their greatest hits, including zesty cevapcici, tasty zakuska, stuffed cabbage and wild boar).

Eastern-European staples (chicken kiev) and gourmet meats (antelope, rabbit) work best, as these dishes allow the kitchen to show off a bit.

Roast swordfish is enveloped in butter and lemony béarnaise. Veal scallopine is better, delivering tender filets drenched in sour cream and mushrooms.

Highs: spicy kick of a Moscow mule
Lows: mushy avocado dishes
Share: zakuska
Savor: wild boar

 

Bebo Trattoria
2250-B Crystal Drive, Arlington; 703-412-5077; www.bebotrattoria.com
Open for lunch, Monday through Saturday, dinner daily.
$$ FOOD: 7.5   AMBIANCE: 7.4   SERVICE: 6.4

Perhaps now more comfortable in his Crystal City skin, Roberto Donna seems to have tamed problem child Bebo Trattoria—tweaking his menu too play up his newfound pizza-making passion and plugging nagging service gaps.

Hostesses acknowledge and seat guests (gasp!) right as they arrive. Ordered meals actually reach the table (hallelujah!). Things take a turn back toward the embarrassing when a companion points out a slick of mystery substance coating our just dispensed ice water (waiter offers no explanation, just whisks the offensive liquid away and returns with plain H2O).

The menu seems just as revitalized, thanks to some clever wine and pizza deals—Barbera with broccoli rabe, merlot and margherita, nebbiolo with prosciutto—one server cited as part of a new push to educate locals about commonsense wine pairings.

A coil of homemade sausage swathed in salsa verde (basil, oregano dominate) satisfies. A sunny egg crowns a yeasty pie padded with buffalo mozzarella and fresh basil (busted yolk is ideal for crust dipping). Anchovy-topped veal soaks up the love of zesty tomato ragout.

Highs: myriad wood-fired pizzas
Lows: blasé house meatballs
Share: homemade lardo plate
Savor: fettucine bolognese

Next page >>

 

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25 Best Restaurants

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Tuesday, December 2nd, 2008

Gather round for a rundown of the hottest dining spots NoVa has to offer.

By Warren Rojas / Portrait Photography by Jonathan Timmes / Food Photography by James Kim & Marisa Zanganeh

The 25 Best list is, for better or for worse, a reflection of where our diverse citizenry—including the intrepid foodies, famished government workers, celebratory families, roving gourmet clubs, starry-eyed couples and everyone else I encounter during my never-ending dining excursions—gathers together to break bread and enjoy a nibble of the good life.

How those tastes have changed.

Over the past 16 months, almost a third of the restaurants tapped for our inaugural fine-dining roundup have either closed or are undergoing significant changes (see sidebar for a quick peek at the dearly departed). During that same period, about a half dozen of D.C.’s most talented chefs crossed the Potomac to breathe new life into old friends (Anthony Chittum), blaze a totally new culinary trail (Morou Ouattara) or further their brand by bringing their particular vision to the Commonwealth (Jamie Leeds).

Read on and I think you’ll agree, D.C.’s loss is definitely our gain.

RATING SCALE: 0.1-2.5 Poor to Fair / 2.6-5.0 Fair to Good / 5.1-7.5 Good to Excellent / 7.6-10.0 Excellent to Outstanding

AVERAGE ENTREE PRICE: $ Under $12 / $$ $13-$20 / $$$ $21-$30 / $$$$ $31+

Restaurant Eve
$$$$ Food: 9.6 Ambiance: 9.1 Service: 9.3
110 S. Pitt St., Alexandria; 703-706-0450; www.restauranteve.com. Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.

Success has yet to spoil local restaurant mogul in the making Cathal Armstrong—the driving force behind Eve, Eamonn’s and the recently resuscitated Majestic (see page 72 for full review). If anything, the mounting pressure seems to have stoked even greater ambition.

Eve remains the center of Armstrong’s culinary universe, the showplace where dedicated chowhounds (Tasting Room), curious gourmands (the Bistro) and cash-strapped foodies (the lounge) can indulge in epic dining tours on their own terms.

Astute servers readily provide guidance (know the ingredients and interplay of their dishes), comfort (homemade breads are doled out with reckless abandon) and support (wine bottles are kept close for quick pouring but never crowd the table).

Every visit provides Cathal and company another chance to dazzle guests with organic surprises (Armstrong proudly supports Polyface Farms), re-tooled standards, jaw-dropping collaborations, or any combination thereof.

The innocuous sounding “bacon egg and cheese” weaves crisp romaine, a sunny egg, salty ham and shaved Parmesan into a rich tapestry anathema to basic salads. A stinging sea nettle and scallop soup embraces fingerling potato risotto (stellar). Fried veal sweetbreads emerge surrounded by crispy oysters and cubed country ham. Pepper-crusted pork belly—one dining companion warned, “I may inhale this” —virtually dissolves into a lake of onions, peas and cherry tomatoes.

Willow
$$$ Food: 8.8 Ambiance: 8.6 Service: 7.2
4301 Fairfax Drive, Arlington; 703-465-8800; www.willowva.com. Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.

Willow may no longer be the new kid on the block, but experience appears to have imbued chef Tracy O’Grady with the wisdom required to carry the restaurant into its golden years.

A popular spot along the Ballston corridor, Willow was plagued early on by issues of scattershot service, uneven cooking and just generally too high expectations. Staff now seems to have settled into a comfortable rhythm, popping up at regular intervals or at least apologizing ahead of time if they know they need to sew things up elsewhere before turning their full attention to you. Next up: Stop whisking unfinished plates back to the kitchen, only to return empty-handed (those were leftovers, and they were mine).

The food that does make it out to the tables is typically worth fighting for.

The bread surrounding an applewood-smoked bacon and gruyere BLT is stained sunrise orange from all the glorious bacon fat (jackpot!). Blue cheese-stuffed dates are absolute showstoppers. Salmon baked beneath a parchment-like potato crust (quite tasty) is almost upstaged by playfully sweet ricotta pancakes. Sultry pork chops enveloped in a second skin of homemade sausage (makes its bacon-wrapped contemporaries seem totally lazy) are escorted by a mesmerizing cipollini and salsify tart. Bite-sized peanut butter sandwich cookies never fail to please, nor does the sinfully rich dark chocolate layer cake.

Bazin’s on Church
$$$ Food: 8.7 Ambiance: 7.8 Service: 7.3
111 Church St. N.W., Vienna; 703-255-7212; www.bazinsonchurch.com. Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday and Sunday brunch; closed Monday.

The buzz on Bazin’s continues to grow. And with good reason.

Partners Patrick and Julie Bazin have upped the ante on neighborhood dining with a come-as-you-are establishment that seems to appeal to everyone from graying expense account holders to penny-pinching 20-somethings out for a little pampering.

The plasma TV above the handsomely outfitted bar remains religiously tuned to the Food Network. (Catering to the crowd or the ultimate in subliminal programming? You decide.) Brick walls, exposed rafters and glossy wood tables communicate a basic but contemporary feel. Servers dutifully patrol the main dining room, but never rush the cadre of businessmen who seem to linger beyond their allotted lunch hours to squeeze in one of the astounding desserts.

A gourmet quesadilla replaces traditional Tex-Mex style fillings with shredded duck, flanking the barbecue bird with a smoky chipotle cream sauce and zesty salsa fresca. Citrus oil-spritzed asparagus come accompanied by a delightful fried goat cheese fritter (savory coin helps buffer the acidic dressing). A warming beef stroganoff unites tender steak, onions and mushrooms with sour cream-soaked spaetzle (well done). Salmon goes southern atop stone-ground grits finished in a marvelous shrimp-tasso sauce. Assorted chocolate and seasonal fruit creations keep dessert lovers happy.

The comprehensive wine list boasts plenty by-the-glass options from well-respected regions. Bottles start at $25 for a 2005 St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc.

Carlyle
$$ Food: 8.1 Ambiance: 7.6 Service: 7.7
4000 S. 28th St., Arlington; 703-931-0777; www.greatamericanrestaurants.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily, Sunday brunch.

The crown jewel of the locally owned Great American Restaurants empire, Carlyle continues to cement its reputation as an all-occasion destination by plying patrons with edible Americana, unflagging service and just a hint of well-earned bravado.

A long-time anchor of the now-booming Shirlington promenade, Carlyle appears perennially packed by legions of baby-toting couples (typically parked along the outdoor patio), extended families (sprinkled throughout the two-level dining room) and random groups of fun-loving friends (fixtures at the standing-room-only bar).

A team-oriented service strategy means help is never more than a flick of the wrist away, though most servers proactively quash potential problems—drinks are refreshed like clockwork, addictive rolls from the neighboring Best Buns Bread Company arrive toasty warm—to avoid unpleasantness later.

But man cannot live by bread alone.

Alien-looking crab fritters (crispy tendrils convey an “it came from the sea” feel) deliver blue crab bobbing in a grilled corn and peppers cream. Beef back ribs are swabbed with a mustard-molasses glaze well worth getting your hands dirty for. Brown butter-kissed chicken can be spit-roasted for on-the-bone enthusiasts (good) or sauteed with arugula, peppers, capers and mushrooms over angel hair pasta (better).

Beer and wine prices veer from respectable (by-the-glass pours are all less than $10) to ridiculous ($5.25 for a bottled Corona?). Instead, let loose with a signature cocktail or specialty martini.

Zeffirelli
$$ Food: 7.9 Ambiance: 7.7 Service: 7.7
728 Pine St., Herndon; 703-318-7000; www.zeffirelliristorante.com. Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner daily.

The Zeffirelli empire expanded this year with the acquisition of Tysons fixture Da Domenico. And while the Leesburg shop seems to play more with pastas, and Da Domenico remains the go-to spot for die-hard veal chop aficionados, the flagship Herndon Zeffirelli keeps the seats filled by wooing regulars and newcomers alike with delicious Tuscan cooking.

The double-decker dining room remains packed with local business types during lunch, while families and groups of friends claim the lion’s share of tables at dinner and on weekends. Staff in patterned vests and colorful ties hover attentively but never badger, lingering just long enough to rattle off their list of daily specials, refresh a glass or tempt you with tales of their homemade desserts.

Bacon-wrapped shrimp or clams casino make for easy pickings with a group, but patrons can go lighter with a breezy tomato, mozzarella, olive oil and scattered basil salad (very refreshing). Homemade lasagna does not want for dairy, layering the noodles and ground veal filling with mozzarella, Swiss and a touch of cream (molto cheesy). Roast rainbow trout emerges lightly crisped and smothered with capers, black olives and diced tomatoes.

Expect a dozen mixed reds and whites by the glass, while bottles start at around $30 for regional whites and climb to $300 for a 2001 Gaja Barbaresco. Other noteworthy finds listed under “Cellar Selections.”

Foti’s
$$$ Food: 8.8 Ambiance: 8.6 Service: 8.5
219 E. Davis St., Culpeper; 540-829-8400; www.fotisrestaurant.com. Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner, Thursday through Sunday and Tuesday; closed Monday.

I know, I know. Driving beyond the Beltway for a meal sounds preposterous in our rush hour-ravaged corner of the universe. Luckily, memories of the inspired cuisine at Foti’s tend to last significantly longer than the round-trip commute.

First-time restaurateurs Frank and Sue Maragos seem to be flourishing, having received regional acclaim as well as ample praise from Culpeper natives happy to have such fine cooking right down the street.

Most nights, extended families and spiffed-up couples mingle freely amidst the exposed brick walls and hardwood floors that frame the longish main dining room. Nattily dressed servers (dig the electric blue shirts) can speak at length about their favorite wines—expect about a dozen mixed reds/white by the glass, all less than $11; bottles start below $30 and climb to $140 for a 2004 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape—or specialty dishes, but occasionally disappear for unexplained stretches.

The menu holds few real surprises, but offers plenty to enjoy.

Tender snails arrive sauteed in a terrific garlic-butter-bacon broth worth sopping up with the polenta cake bedding (a Gallic-Roman masterpiece). Doubly cooked chicken (flash-seared, then baked) benefits from a homemade rosemary-oregano-thyme rub, while pork gets a boost from a grilled onion and hickory smoked tomato-based barbecue sauce. Meanwhile, one unforgettable chiller folds goat cheese, raisins, mint chocolate and lavender into dark chocolate ice cream (my tongue is still doing back flips).

Hank’s Oyster Bar
$$ Food: 8.1 Ambiance: 7.2 Service: 7.1
1026 King St., Alexandria; 703-739-4265; www.hanksdc.com. Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday and weekend brunch; closed Monday.

First came Cathal Armstrong’s fried everything emporium, Eamonn’s. Now we have our own branch of chef Jamie Leeds’ quirky, New England-style seafood shack, Hank’s Oyster Bar.

My poor arteries ache. But it truly hurts so good.

The lightning bolt-shaped Alexandria location features about a dozen seats up front, a central bar and a few more tables in back. Flickering tea lights and tulip-filled shot glasses masquerade as modern decor. Most nights, the crowd includes shorts-clad boomers and baby-toting Xers who take the longish waits in stride by sipping wine on the front steps.

Crunchy goldfish crackers preface every meal, while fresh oysters from all around the country—Washington, Rhode Island, California and, of course, Virginia—are advertised alongside daily blackboard specials.

Baskets of fried Ipswich clams (joyously crunchy) tend to disappear quickly when dining with friends. An intriguing blend of bluepoint oysters, Bloody Mary mix and sake almost always turns heads and invites conversation. The signature lobster roll mixes succulent meat with celery, onions and mayo, heaps the chilled seafood medley into a buttery roll, then seals the deal with Old Bay-spiced fries (great deep brown spuds). Sablefish arrives seared in a soy-balsamic glaze that caramelizes on top while injecting smokiness within.

Budget-friendly wines abound (bottles peak at $80 for Veuve Clicquot Champagne), but many dishes seem to call out for a nice cold beer (check out the craft brew selection).

La Bergerie
$$$ Food: 8.4 Ambiance: 8.2 Service: 8.2
218 N. Lee St., Alexandria; 703-683-1007; www.labergerie.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Traditional French will never go out of style at La Bergerie, an Old Town Alexandria standard for fans of seductive foods in plush environs.

The warehouse-bound but still tony establishment provides a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of more touristy spots sprinkled up and down King Street. Well-appointed servers (sharp as ever in their signature dark slacks and copper-colored vests) are ever attentive and pleasantly accommodating. Dining recommendations are readily provided without a whiff of pressure, individual dishes are presented with a heartfelt “bon appétit,” and tables are cleared without so much as an interruption.

The seasonal menu is regularly stocked with gourmet delicacies (pheasant, foie gras, veal sweetbreads, wild boar), as well as French staples (sauteed snails, baked onion and Gruyère soup).

The made-to-order Caesar salad summons a visual feast, as servers whir into action assembling the now-ubiquitous salad from its base—think freshly cracked eggs, salty anchovies, streams of Worcestershire and crisp romaine leaves—ingredients (a delight every time). Duck confit heads to the highlands via a shepherd’s pie layering shredded duck (fatty in spots, but mostly flavorful) with wild mushrooms (great building block) and whipped potatoes (clever twist on the rustic meal). Medallions of roast pork are bathed in a luxe Roquefort sauce (more molten cheese, s’il vous plait!) that thrusts ordinary swine into the big time.

The Majestic
$$ Food: 7.9 Ambiance: 7.2 Service: 7
911 King St., Alexandria; 703-837-9117; www.majesticcafe.com. Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday though Sunday; closed Monday.

Once in danger of falling prey to a corporate takeover (the horror!), the clearly charmed and quite charming Majestic has come under the wing of Cathal Armstrong and Co.—an adoptive family that remains determined to restore this storied establishment to its former glory.

Snapshots of the restaurant through the ages dot a mustard-colored entranceway. Natural light pours into the basic but cozy main dining room through overhead skylights. The new owners installed chef Shannon “Red” Overmiller (a Restaurant Eve protégé) in the kitchen and gave Maria Chicas (Eve cocktail guru Todd Thrasher’s wife) free reign of the main dining room.

So far, so good.

The nostalgic menu reads like a gourmet picnic roster, emphasizing cleverly tweaked comfort foods. Overmiller also attempts to rewrite history every Sunday by preparing a let’s-all-gather-round-the-table-style meal (seasonal entree, homemade sides and dessert, all included) not seen since reruns of “The Donna Reed Show.”

Chicken salad hoists white meat chicken tossed with potatoes, celery and tarragon in herb mayo between buttery toast slices (better than most delis). Blue ribbon-worthy barbecued pork arrives dressed with caramelized onions and thick, country slaw (carrots and cabbage add crunch). Roast pork gets a hand from bacon-braised cabbage and apples sauteed with onions (a sweet-and-sour symphony). Deconstructed icebox cake scatters mint chocolate chip ice cream, plain vanilla and a pile of crumbled chocolate wafers into separate camps, then drizzles hot fudge throughout.

Vermilion
$$$ Food: 8.5 Ambiance: 8.3 Service: 8
1120 King St., Alexandria; 703-684-9669; www.vermilionrestaurant.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Chef Anthony Chittum, who most recently kept watch over the D.C. kitchens of Notti Bianche and Dish, has used his particular brand of culinary magic to turn Alexandria’s Vermilion white-hot.

No longer merely a wine bar or after-hours spot, the Neighborhood Restaurant Group-owned Vermilion now boasts some of the most refined cooking within the local dining chain. Whereas cocktail junkies used to pace through the dining room until a spot on one of the plush chaise lounges in the back or an open bar stool materialized, foodies are now coming around to drink in and devour the restaurant’s seasonally pegged manifestations.

Chittum has taken to re-tooling the menu about every other month—a move that stokes such powerful get-it-while-you-can buzz the most popular dishes tend to sell out before the end of your average dinner rush.

Savory sweetbreads flanked by savoy cabbage and pomegranate seeds are the stuff of legend. Diver scallops in caramelized truffle oil provide the sweet, while mini-stacks of gratin potatoes surrounded by sauteed leeks come through with the salt. Crab imperial stuffed-trout (blistered skin, stark-white flesh) is absolutely wonderful with homemade spinach fettuccine. Elsewhere, brassy roast chicken hits the barbecue mark, only to be sabotaged by a limp citrus-shelled bean succotash.

Look for nearly two dozen mixed whites and reds by the glass (all under $8), plus half-glass pours offered for, you guessed it, half-price.

Patowmack Farm
$$$$ Food: 9 Ambiance: 8.8 Service: 8.5
42461 Lovettsville Road, Lovettsville; 540-822-9017; www.patowmackfarm.com. Open for dinner, Thursday through Saturday, weekend brunch.

Sometimes I think it’s the bucolic setting. Others, I find myself dwelling on those thought-provoking morsels that fool the eye into believing one thing while the mouth experiences another.

All I know for sure is that Patowmack Farm keeps calling me back. And I’m only too happy to oblige.

The epitome of seasonal, organic dining, Patowmack Farm performs magic with the very foods that poke up through its soil. Chef Christian Evans shifts his menu with each subsequent harvest, fashioning the farm-fresh ingredients into culinary flights of fancy.

Homemade breads envelop ingenious vegetable-fruit pairings (blueberry-fennel was divine, zucchini-squash delivered healthfulness by the bite). Fresh cheeses never fail to astound, be they a goat milk blue rolled with fresh asparagus, chives and a sunny marigold bud (magnificent) or a Camembert-laced risotto patty floating peacefully atop a lush asparagus broth. Deviled spinach salad brings a sugary pastry stuffed with an alluring bacon-egg blend. Pan-seared duck accompanies an over-easy egg draped across rosemary-flecked potatoes, then finishes them all with wild mushrooms and grilled squash ragout (outstanding). Grilled sea scallops dance atop a fabulous mussel salad encircled by smoked salmon. Homemade panna cotta arrives with a crispy cinnamon cookie that doubles as your spoon. A mixed berry mille-feuille forges sugary pastry, blueberries, wine berries, crème anglaise and fresh spearmint into the perfect summer send-off.

Farrah Olivia
$$$ Food: 9.2 Ambiance: 8.6 Service: 8.4
600 Franklin St., Alexandria; 703-778-2233; www.farraholiviarestaurant.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily, Sunday brunch.

Should visiting foodies ever question our area’s culinary chops, shuttle them directly to Farrah Olivia and let Morou Ouattara propel them into gastronomic oblivion.

One bite into most dishes, people marvel at the unexpected flavor combinations. By the third bite, they’re left wondering why nobody put such wonderful tastes together before. Then again, not every restaurant can lay claim to a West African-born, sensory-bending tactician like Ouattara.

The streamlined main dining room is all about transparency and charm, employing little else than ample sunlight and scattered snapshots of the restaurant’s sprightly namesake to set the mood. The deceptively short menu—curt descriptions sometimes fail to adequately express the sum of the typically exotic parts—can give first-time guests pause, but many servers are conversant enough in the head-scratching cuisine to steer novices toward at least seemingly familiar territory.

Gourmet breads arrive with fascinating spreads like bok choy pesto (thick, herby fun) and horseradish ricotta (lumpy, spicy goodness). An amuse of seared rabbit and espresso-charged potato soup kick-starts the appetite. Strips of flash-seared escolar are escorted by a hill of red wine powder and pickled plum (thrilling). Ham and eggs go gourmet in a sandwich featuring truffled ham, sauteed mushrooms, a fried quail egg and rich cheddar sauce (a lunch triumph). Cured quail is all tender breast meat and crispy drumsticks splashed with seductive chorizo oil.

Bellissimo
$$$ Food: 8 Ambiance: 7.9 Service: 7.2
10403 Main St., Fairfax; 703-293-2367; www.bellissimorestaurant.com. Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.

It’s a bit hard to tell which came first at Bellissimo: the mountainous portions of homemade pasta (sizable plates all but guarantee leftovers) or the fiercely loyal patrons. What is clear is that the conflux of the two makes it that much harder for us regular folks to indulge in Bellissimo’s well-worn charms.

The tiny Fairfax locale houses maybe a dozen highly prized tables—most nights, the place is overrun by families, clusters of friends and boomer couples—framed on both sides by vibrant coastal frescos. Decorative columns and other Roman mementos help complete the Italian feel, but the food is the main attraction here.

Menu choices include a handful of pastas, along with loads of veal, poultry and meat (lamb, filet) options. Seafood creeps into various pasta dishes, appetizers and salads, while also bolstering numerous stand-alone favorites.

One fettuccine standard goes grand with a pungent marinara anchored by spicy Italian sausage bits and a hail of crumbled goat cheese (tangy cheese folds into the herb-infused sauce beautifully). Swordfish pescatore summons a terrific swordfish steak (remarkably tender) sauteed with mussels and shrimp in a winey tomato broth. Fried calamari is good, but the crunchy squid can’t salvage its clumpy polenta counterpart.

The exclusively Italian wine list touts approximately five dozen bottles, including nearly two dozen Piemonte and Tuscan reds, all under $120.

Ray’s the Steaks
$$$ Food: 8.2 Ambiance: 6.1 Service: 6.6
1725 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-841-7297. Open for dinner daily.

The atmosphere inside at times approaches bedlam. And the bare white walls will not be winning any design awards. But if it’s gloriously grilled beef you crave, Ray’s is definitely the place you want to be.

A true everyman’s paradise, Ray’s has become a community treasure by abandoning the corporate sizzle (no dress code, no reservations, kids of all ages welcome) in favor of superlative steaks. Owner Michael Landrum’s egalitarian vision, however, naturally leads to a throng of anxious patrons who must jockey for position before the doors open each night.

Stacks of wine partition the tightly knit dining room—it’s not unusual to bump elbows with your neighbor as you gleefully carve into a steak; just apologize and get back to business—from the always buzzing kitchen/prep area. Upselling seems verboten, though patrons are welcome to customize any entree with bonus toppings (saucy mushrooms, crumbled blue cheese, house marinades) for $1 a pop. Sauteed garlic and alternative cooking techniques are provided gratis.

A handsomely charred rib eye (blackened crust protects the naturally juicy meat within) shines even brighter with a dab of homemade horseradish. Sirloin Diablo summons cubes of spicy oil-splashed steak surrounded by more sauteed garlic and onions (hardly needed, but always welcome). Or go for broke with a jaw-dropping N.Y. strip smothered with blue cheese, mushrooms and onions (a steal at any price).

Tachibana
$$ Food: 8.4 Ambiance: 6.3 Service: 6.6
6715 Lowell Ave., McLean; 703-847-1771. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

One peek at the fascinating array of glistening fish and other from-the-depths delights stored beneath the glass at Tachibana’s main sushi counter, and you just know you are in for a genuine treat.

Owners of this venerable Japanese eatery have garnered so many awards for their amazing sushi catalog, they’re running out of places to properly display all the plaques. Better they run out of wallspace than seats, since regulars (a roughly 50-50 split between native Japanese and in-the-know Westerners) seem to snatch up the majority of tables at any given time. Solo diners, on the other hand, tend to gravitate toward the long, half-moon-shaped sushi counter up front or the smaller sushi counter in back rather than wait for vacancies in the dining room.

Behind those counters, classically trained sushi chefs spend hour upon hour artfully scaling, gutting and slicing all the fresh seafood at their command. And their dedication is greatly appreciated.

One tempura roll marries glossy tuna and fiery jalapeno (tuna pops, jalapeno rocks). Hamanegi maki combines already robust yellowtail tuna (all-fish flavor) with a smattering of flaked bonito (a bold tuna-on-tuna tag-team). Shaved plum and minty shiso take your taste buds by storm (lip-smacking fruit is unbelievably flavorful). A chef’s choice sampler bears a dozen mixed maki and nigiri rolls featuring everything from red surf clam (terrific) to mackerel to butterflied shrimp (tasty but dreadfully familiar).

Claiborne’s
$$$ Food: 7.9 Ambiance: 7.5 Service: 8
200 Lafayette Blvd., Fredericksburg; 540-371-7080; www.claibornesrestaurant.com. Open for dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, Sunday brunch.

No mere novelty stop, Claiborne’s uses low-country cuisine to coax big smiles from its many travel-weary customers.

The renovated train station remains intimately connected to its transit-related past. Watch carefully, and you’ll notice the historic railroad photos all around the main dining room tremble ever so slightly as the passenger and commercial freight lines buzz by on the adjoining railway.

Whether the passing trains bother staff, you’ll never know, since the nametag-sporting (a bit hokey, but informative) servers appear focused on little else than anticipating your every need. Management typically pops by at least once per meal to confirm that everything is progressing smoothly, a formality that is more often than not unnecessary, given the ready amount of genuine hospitality showered upon every table.

The menu weaves together Southern favorites from land, sea and air.

Chevre lovers can climb the fried green tomato tower straight to heaven, as the skyward-reaching vegetable rounds arrive affixed with bounteous scoops of potent goat cheese. A crunchy catfish plate brings two whopping cornmeal-crusted filets set afloat on piquant tasso gravy (creamy bliss) and accompanied by some seriously garlicky collard greens. One harvesty platter summons medallions of cider-spiked swine (tender and oh-so-sweet) flanked by garlic mashed potatoes and braised cabbage.

Cigar enthusiasts, take note: After-dinner stogies can now only be enjoyed outside, given that the entire restaurant went smoke-free this summer.

Bebo Trattoria
$$ Food: 8.3 Ambiance: 7.6 Service: 5.9
2250-B Crystal Drive, Arlington; 703-412-5077; www.bebotrattoria.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Helpful hints for the Bebo staff: Menus are typically appreciated. Empty glasses need refilling. Piping-hot pizzas cannot be cut with plain flatware.

Pardon for opening with this painfully obvious refresher course, but the continually scattershot service
at Bebo is particularly hard to stomach for those of us who remain smitten with Roberto Donna’s often brilliant cooking.

To his credit, Donna always appears to be around, whether that means personally supervising a pizza-making lesson/birthday party one weekend, snipping fresh basil for a lunchtime pizza order or catching up with old friends mid-dinner rush. To his detriment, Donna always appears to be around, which means he’s either incapable of correcting the long-standing service issues or he’s become accustomed to the pained looks stamped across so many of his guests’ faces.

Regulars know well enough to pounce on any open bar stools (thanks for always taking care of us, Stephanie). Sit anywhere else and you take your chances.

The food is typically more of a sure thing. Ricotta-filled prosciutto rolls ride in on an ash-stained crust (wood-fired oven adds smoke, character to the dough) topped with sweet tomato sauce and pools of molten mozzarella. A gorgonzola and sweet onion pie performs a perfect balancing act on the tongue. Jumbo pasta tubes are covered in a robust pork ragu (juicy meat just falls to shreds). Meanwhile, rabbit and homemade sausage pop up all across menu.

Lightfoot
$$$ Food: 8.5 Ambiance: 8.6 Service: 8.3
11 N. King St., Leesburg; 703-771-2233; www.lightfootrestaurant.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

No need to slip the host a sawbuck or practice your name-dropping skills to secure a table at Leesburg’s much-beloved Lightfoot. But chances are, you’ll leave this former bank feeling like a million bucks.

The sprawling, two-story restaurant integrates recycled vault accessories and vintage memorabilia to establish a quiet cool, then drops the lights real low to keep things nice and mellow. Clientele ranges from martini-toting girlfriends who seem quite content to gossip at the bar all night to mixed groups just as happy to pass plates back and forth so everyone can sample chef Ingrid Gustavson’s modern cuisine.

The menu tilts towards the sea (seasonal crab, halibut and salmon specials took center stage during recent visits), but land-lovers have nothing to fear.

Woodsy mushrooms and fresh goat cheese are baked into a flaky pasty puff (earthy richness). Creamy, spinach-laden stock is dotted with amazing little potato dumplings that simply melt in your mouth. No need to hunt for lobster in the soothing house bisque, a brew stocked with sweet lobster meat, homemade pasta and a smattering of salmon caviar. A grilled-to-order lamb T-bone (ideal for even the most discerning carnivore) is virtually bulletproof, whereas seared duck (done quite well, indeed) can’t fly high enough to escape a cluttered citrus risotto (bits of asparagus and sweet peas are good; pomegranate-orange-truffle oil emulsion seems like overkill).

Foundation
$$$ Food: 8.4 Ambiance: 8.4 Service: 8.2
9112 Center St., Manassas; 703-368-3427; www.foundationmanassas.com. Open for dinner, Thursday through Sunday, Sunday brunch.

It took all of two years, but Okra’s owner Charles Gilliam can finally say Foundation is ready to stand on its own.

The fine-dining extension of Gilliam’s casual Cajun bistro, Foundation started strong under the direction of some ex-Commander’s Palace toques, but quickly sputtered last winter following changes in the kitchen. Enter chef Matthew Wood, another Big Easy transplant who has re-energized the cozy yet daring establishment.

Dinner guests are always greeted with a welcome bit of bubbly before being escorted into the wonderfully intimate dining room. Gabby gourmands can belly up to the marble chef’s bar, pole positioning for those who wish to chew the fat with Wood while he prepares his five-course tasting menu (changes weekly).

A batch of signature dishes exploring mostly international themes cycles through seasonally, while Creole favorites seem to remain evergreen.

Cakey homemade biscuits are the perfect foil for fantastically spicy andouille gravy. A hollowed out tomato adds acidity to a wondrous seafood salad of chilled crab in a mustard-lemon aioli (very refreshing). Shrimp- and crab-stuffed crepes are blanketed by a lemony beurre blanc finished with threads of fresh dill (flavorful sauce, filling plate). Well-seasoned lamb chops (good, but a bit too bony for the price) are propped up by a curiously minty salsa verde. Dinner sweets are typically good, but the brunch-only beignets take the deep-fried cake.

Eleventh Street Lounge
$$$ Food: 8.4 Ambiance: 7 Service: 6.2
1041 N. Highland St., Arlington; 703-351-1311; www.eleventhstreetlounge.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch.

Ex-District toque Antonio Burrell has helped elevate Eleventh Street Lounge from hipster watering hole to foodie haven with his always adventurous and often challenging collection of sized-for-sharing creations.

The alterna-pub was already popular with locals and gourmet beer hounds (frosty pints of Stella Artois or Maredsous, anyone?), but turned a major corner last spring when Burrell—who completed tours at both Viridian and Vidalia before leaping over to Virginia—unveiled his ambitious new menu. Nowadays, you might see the same club kids and wannabe lounge lizards splayed out on the assorted couches and love seats you did before. But the maybe half dozen tables and high-tops that constitute the main dining area are becoming increasingly occupied by curious boomers who are probably more interested in sampling Burrell’s imaginative cuisine than they are in closing down the bass-thumping nightclub below.

Truffled eggs emerge as a crunchy quartet of fried oeufs dressed with a zesty horseradish aioli. Gourmet sandwiches like an updated Monte Cristo (sweet ham, smoked turkey and Swiss pressed between buttery brioche) are typically escorted by a salty-sweet stack of sweet potato and traditional french fries (great combo). Seared scallops sail into culinary history astride watermelon cubes stacked atop mint-avocado cream (amazing).

Signature martinis and specialty drinks are all the rage here. By-the-glass wines are all under $8, while bottles max out at $80 for a vintage Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon.

Ristorante Bonaroti
$$$ Food: 7.9 Ambiance: 7.8 Service: 8.2
428 Maple Ave. E., Vienna; 703-281-7550; www.bonarotirestaurant.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Chances are you know about a dozen places for good pasta. But do any of those interchangeable eateries feature daily specials longer than most competitors’ standard menus and happen to be a guilty pleasure of one of the area’s most cherished sports stars?

If not, I suggest adding Ristorante Bonaroti to your mental Rolodex.

Most nights you can still find owner Sergio Domestici tending to tables (regulars describe him as “our favorite waiter”) or greeting guests at the door. Expertly trained staff follow suit by anticipating patrons’ every need (warm lemon water follows a course of sauteed mussels for quick cleanup).

Stop by enough, and you might even run into a Redskin or two (tight end Chris Cooley loves the beef carpaccio and is rumored to bring teammates around before home games).

Homemade ravioli are filled with ground lamb and blanketed in a tomato-rich ragu. Fettuccine Sergio coats the familiar noodles in a subtle Alfredo, then ramps up the entire experience with shredded ham and sweet, delicious snow peas. The otherworldly St. Honore cake looks like a profiterole-napoleon love child, combining flaky pastry dough, sweet custard, cream-filled, chocolate-covered bonbons, whipped cream and streaks of chocolate sauce.

The predominantly Italian wine list features by-the-glass and carafe selections. Bottles start at $24 for a domestic riesling and rocket to $1600 for the 1975 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcini “Il Greppo.”

Serbian Crown
$$$ Food: 8.3 Ambiance: 7.9 Service: 7.4
1141 Walker Road, Great Falls; 703-759-4150; www.serbiancrown.com. Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday; closed Monday.

As time marches on, so does the Serbian Crown, a throwback establishment characterized by its enduring grandeur and affinity for theatrics.

An Eastern European stronghold perhaps best known for its long-running gypsy dancing shows and strict allegiance to Franco-Russian cuisine, the Crown delights newcomers and regulars alike with tableside productions—deftly prepared Dover sole and freshly mixed beef tartare always raise a few eyebrows, while baked Alaska typically elicits gasps of delight—that are as amusing to behold as they are delicious.

Those with deep pockets can nibble on closely guarded servings of Ocetra and Beluga caviar. The rest of us can sneak a taste of the good life via no-less-pleasing red caviar mixed into sour cream-topped oysters (a regal, raw seafood delight). The aforementioned tartare combines pink-as-can-be ground beef with ground black pepper, onions, capers, flavored oil and raw eggs into a daredevil treat worthy of its namesake Asian invaders. Wild game selections don’t always hit (sauteed emu disappears into a too-strong green peppercorn sauce), but the ones that do are truly memorable (lion, anyone?). Other seasonal favorites include port-braised antelope (firm meat flush with flavor), Madeira-spiked wild boar (a solo feast par excellence) and savory venison creations.

Assorted wines are readily available. But with nearly two dozen name-brand vodkas and a rainbow of flavored varieties to choose from, logic dictates these meals go down with some of Russia’s frostiest spirits.

L’Auberge Chez Francois
$$$$ Food: 8.6 Ambiance: 8.1  Service: 8.8
332 Springvale Road, Great Falls; 703-759-3800; www.laubergechezfrancois.com. Open for lunch, Sunday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday; closed Monday.

No need to wait for a special occasion to plan a trip out to the always welcoming Chez Francois. Every visit here is an opportunity in and of itself to celebrate a shared passion for food, life and fellowship.

The quaint white cottage with bright red shutters, so familiar to devout gourmands and festive partygoers alike, continues to cement its place as a dining institution in an otherwise volatile restaurant landscape (see intro) by adhering to a fairly simple business plan: Spoil patrons rotten with authentically Alsatian food, hard-to-find wines and impeccable service.

Founder Francois Haeringer has passed the mantle on to his son, Jacques, who keeps the family’s 30-year legacy of hospitality very much alive. The Haeringers are aided, of course, by an army of seasoned service professionals with smiles almost as bright as the shiny gold buttons on their striking red vests.

A typical four-course dining adventure—it’s really six, if you count the seasonal amuse and intermezzo sorbet sent out gratis from the kitchen—can be custom tailored to include as much seafood, fowl or game as you like. One seafood medley summons a porcelain clamshell filled with nuggets of shrimp, crab and lobster in a terrific herb-cream sauce. The Papa Ernest plate unites sumptuous specimens of lamb (better), veal (best) and filet mignon (good), then seals the deal with a buttery half-lobster tail.

Bamian
$$ Food: 8.2 Ambiance: 8.5 Service: 7.3
5634 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church; 703-820-7880; www.bamianrestaurant.com. Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.

With its palatial decor and unabashedly Afghan menu, Bamian may seem a bit intimidating to first-time visitors. But repeat guests—the dining room gets more and more crowded with each visit—can attest to the overwhelming hospitality that is the heart of this thriving community touchstone.

Unsure which exotic vegetable dish or grilled meat to sample? Check with any of the incredibly gracious servers, many of whom start off soft-spoken but cheerfully open up when discussing their favorite native dishes.

The exhilarating bouranee baunjaun summons a spicy eggplant mash offset by mint-spiked yogurt sauce, best devoured atop warm pitas. A gloriously understated portion of subzi chalau rolls leafy spinach and white rice around until grain and greens unite in stir-fried bliss. Chopan kabob delivers chargrilled lamb ribs that are sparsely seasoned yet roar with flavor, with or without a dunk in the potent homemade chutney (packs a citrusy sting). Simply sweet goshe feel reveals curly sheets of fried dough dusted with powdered sugar and crushed pistachios (no-nonsense confections even dieters can enjoy).

Keeping with the times, the restaurant offers about a dozen mixed whites and reds by the glass (all under $8), while bottled wines start at $22 for a youngish Delicato White Zinfandel and top out at $29 for a St. Francis Merlot. Devout Muslims can enjoy chilled doogh or hot tea.

Café Renaissance
$$$ Food: 6.8 Ambiance: 7.3 Service: 7.5
163 Glyndon St., Vienna; 703-938-3311; www.caferenaissance.com. Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner, daily.

Veal sweetbreads may not be for everybody, but those of us who do enjoy them treasure the few places that can satisfy our offal itch. Sadly, Café Renaissance has pulled the specialty selection from its proudly Gallic carte—a not-so-subtle departure that has not gone unnoticed by this Vienna mainstay’s rapidly graying clientele.

A sentimental favorite amongst the Greatest Generation set, Café Renaissance remains a cozy retreat for devotees of traditional Eastern European fare. Though the alluring sweetbreads have disappeared—one waiter says patrons routinely call to inquire if it’ll be on daily special,
management claims they can accommodate special orders with just a few days notice—gourmet staples like calves liver Bercy and seasonal game dishes continue to satisfy.

Roast eggplant gives way to a pleasing ricotta and prosciutto filling. Flattened chicken filets arrive smothered in a brazen gorgonzola-tomato sauce bolstered by capers and black olives (bravissimo!). Tilapia leaps from subtly sweet to sublime after a quick soak in lemon butter with tart apples and sliced almonds. An eponymous pasta dish scatters a bounty of fresh mussels, shrimp and jumbo sea scallops in the homemade sauce of your choosing (vodka cream adds bite, olive oil and garlic let the seafood do the work) atop steaming capellini.

By-the-glass wines are limited, while bottles top out at $600 for a 1971 Chateau Latour Pauillac.

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