Posts Tagged ‘chef’
Posted by Rebekah Lowe / Sunday, November 20th, 2011
Area Chefs Tell Us What Mom Makes Better
Chef’s Momma’s Table
“My mom makes an amazing cioppino/bouillabaisse that she serves every Christmas Eve. Her fried chicken also blows mine away.”
Brian Robinson, executive chef, Restaurant 3
“My mom makes Beef Bordelaise way better than me. It’s her signature dish ever since I was a kid. Loved it all of the time, served with steamed rice on the side.”
Warren Brown, founder, CakeLove
“Lemon salad. I can’t make it. Not that I don’t know how, but I don’t have ‘the touch.’ It is a must have at my family’s holiday table. ‘Screw the turkey, if there isn’t lemon salad then it isn’t Thanksgiving,’ is the general feeling about this salad.”
Emily Sprissler, “Top Chef” season two contestant
“Her chili is awesome, and although I have asked her to share technique and ingredients, she just sort of shrugs it off and says, ‘You know, it has beans and ground beef.’”
David Guas, chef/owner, Bayou Bakery
“My mom makes a cheese souflee with sausage and salad that’s like the greatest thing on the planet Earth. I pretty much force her to make it every time I go visit.”
Tarver King, head chef, Ashby Inn
“I would have to say her sweet potato pie. As much as I think I’m a great cook, she probably makes everything better than me. But I have yet to make a sweet potato pie that even comes close to hers.”
Rahman “Rock” Harper, “Hell’s Kitchen” season three winner
-Matt Basheda
A Little Taste of D.C. Goes a Long Way
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, October 10th, 2011
The Taste of DC Festival
There’s still one day left to take advantage of Taste of DC- a food, wine, beer and music festival that features tasting dishes from more than 80 of DC’s best food trucks, restaurants and eateries. Plus, you get the chance to get up close and personal with some of the best local chefs and winemakers around! Today’s your last chance and trust me- it’s worth it!
Wine and craft beer pavilions will showcase wines from around the world as well as craft beers that are brewed around the region. Live entertainment will be performed on four stages with national headlining acts, local bands, chef demonstrations and family performances. A portion of the proceeds from the Taste of DC will be donated to the DC Central Kitchen, the American Red Cross and Bread for the City.
And if that’s not a good enough reason- how about the food?
Everything from Thai, to Japanese, to Bar-B-Que, to Jamaican, to Ethiopian was right there for the tasting- and I wanted to try it all!
I began (and ended, actually) my tour around the festival with a little puff of heaven, known simply as Chicken Puffs from Ping Pong Dim Sum- the only dim sum restaurant in all of DC, I’m told. These warm little pockets of puff pastry were sweet and savory at the same time- filled with honey-roasted chicken and brushed golden brown at the top. They were so good we had to go back for seconds.
Chicken Puffs from Ping Pong Dim Sum
Be sure to visit Mayur Kabab House for a generous helping of their vegetable samosa platter- fried dumplings filled with potatoes, peas and a mix of spices. Served with chickpeas, this is a meal all in itself!
Samosa Platter from Mayur Kebab House
Like seafood? You definitely don’t want to pass up Luke’s Lobster. You can always tell the most popular places by the length of the line and that would mean this place is high up on the list. With a choice of crab, lobster or shrimp, they hand out half sized Maine-style seafood rolls. The seafood is chilled and piled atop a soft buttered, split-top bun with a sprinkle of spices, mayo and lemon butter. So worth the wait.
Crab Roll from Luke's Lobster
Want comfort food taken to the extreme? You have to try the mac and cheese topped with chocolate covered bacon from Co. Co. Sala. Yes, you read that right. This chocolate lounge and boutique’s unique twist on their home-style mac and cheese comes with a few shards of chocolate dipped bacon. Now, I had heard of bacon mac and cheese, but this took it to a whole new level. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to like it, but I couldn’t help it. Cheese, bacon, chocolate- who doesn’t like all those things??
Yes, that is chocolate-covered bacon on that mac and cheese- from Co. Co. Sala
Speaking of sinfully delicious, let’s talk about dessert. There are certainly a lot of places to choose from. The line for Wicked Waffle’s chocolate cream banana waffle was around the block; there were cupcake and cookie stands galore; but if you truly want to be transported to another dimension, you must, I repeat, must, try the fried Oreo’s from Everything Nice.
OMG- fried Oreos at Everything Nice
Yes, it is exactly what it sounds like. Deep fried Oreo cookies, coated with heap of powdered sugar- it was sort of like stumbling into the magical land of Narnia. Taking that first bite was like a choir of angels breaking into song. The cookies become soft, warm and gooey after their journey through the hot oil- sort of like a molten chocolate cake that’s then fried and served on a stick. Heart attacks, be damned!
If all that sugar’s making you thirsty, don’t forget to wash it all down with a cold, frosty beverage. Try 3 ounce samples of 40 + beers, including my favorite- Guinness Black Lager. I’m told this beer is not available on the market until October 22, so be one of the first to try it! It’s dark and frothy, but smooth, surprisingly sweet and not at all bitter.
In the mood for something a little different? How about a frozen wine cooler, served Capri Sun style complete with straw and silver pouch? It’s the daiquiri-to-go that comes in three flavors- Margarita, Strawberry Daiquiri or Pina Colada but I wouldn’t recommend it unless you like really sweet drinks. And after those fried Oreos I’m all sweeted-out.
Pina Colada was my favorite!
The Taste of D.C. is still going on today from 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.The majority of the event is free to attend. The ticketed areas of the event are the Main Stage Concerts, the Bier Garden, and select tasting demonstrations at the Culinary Pavilion. Food/Non-alcoholic beverage tickets and Alcohol tickets need to be purchased to experience the 60+ restaurants, 40+ wines, and 40+ beers at the event. They can all be purchased here.
You don’t want to miss out on this opportunity!
Dates and Times
Monday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m.
Location
Pennsylvania Avenue NW
Between 9th St. and 14th St.
Washington DC
See a map
The closest Metro stations are Federal Triangle and Metro Center
Admission
General Admission is Free
Food & Beverage Tickets are 10 tickets for $15
Go here for a complete list of participating restaurants!
Bon appetit tout le monde!
– Jennie Whistler
Posted by Warren Rojas / Tuesday, August 23rd, 2011
What’s a reality TV-anointed cheflebrity to do once the camera’s glare has receded? Rahman “Rock” Harper now basks in the adoring gaze of aspiring culinary students:
(Image: Urszula Stern)
Having logged countless hours behind the burners at various high profile, local restaurants (B. Smith’s, Ben’s Next Door, The Carlyle Club), Harper now dedicates his time to academia–he currently shares his accrued hospitality knowledge with those enrolled at Stratford University–and his burgeoning cookbook catalog.
WR: Salt. Pepper. What other culinary elements could you not live without?
RH: Tough one but I would go with garlic. It is amazing in flavor and a little goes a long way so you don’t need much. I also love the fact that it is extremely healthy for you!
WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered? How long did it take? Do you still make it today?
RH: Don’t know if I have mastered anything, because it can all be improved. My fried chicken is pretty close to perfection though. Over 15 years I would guess. Absolutely!
WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?
RH: Peaches and tomatoes!
WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …
RH: “Hallelujah! The Welcome Table: A Lifetime of Memories with Recipes” from Dr. Maya Angelou. I’ve owned it for a while but after thumbing threw [sic] it the other day I am determined to cook everything in it! She speaks, teaches and writes with such passion and love; her cooking is just as amazing.
WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you make it again?
RH: Foie gras torchon from Michael Mina’s book. Yes, I have and I got it, but it was challenging indeed.
WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to collaborate with …
RH: Wow, that’s tough. We’re a “top 5″ dining city in the country now! R.J. Cooper. I’ve had his amazing cooking before, but I would love to see how he executes Rogue24 from top to bottom.
WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for yourself?
RH: Scrambled eggs, a sharp cheese, chives, summer tomatoes, on toasted wheat.
WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss my …
RH: Next book! Rock Your Kitchen Rock Your Love Life: Building a Successful Relationship Through Passionate Cooking
WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …
RH: Big and beautiful California cabernet
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Just so you know, chef, I’m totally stealing your breakfast of champions.
Come back next Tuesday for another helping of Red Meat.
–Warren
Posted by Warren Rojas / Wednesday, June 29th, 2011
(Image: Facebook)
Executive chef Barry Koslow will close out his tenure at Tallula on Tuesday, July 5.
“I’ve decided it’s time to move on,” Koslow shared in an email.
Koslow’s imminent departure signals a very real changing of the guard at the Neighborhood Restaurant Group‘s fine dining/gastropub hybrid, a shift that began last year when EatBar chef Joey Alvarez split to join forces with Peter Pastan.
According to an NRG spokeswoman, the cooking duties at Tallula will be spread amongst in-network talent. ”
While we are in a transitional phase we are being supported by the great depth both at Tallula and the other restaurants, especially by some of our up and coming chefs that have shown a lot of promise,” she stated, adding, “There’s no immediate executive chef taking the spot.”
The spokeswoman also indicated that chef Brian Wilson, who has logged time in several high profile kitchens (2941, Eola, New Heights, Palena), has been behind the EatBar burners for several months now. *Updated: 6/29 @ 3 p.m.* Brian Wilson decamped from EatBar earlier this month.
Although he expressed a desire to decompress for a spell and reconnect with his budding family (he has a 10-month old baby girl), Koslow did leave the door open to returning to the hospitality game.
“I have many options to sort through while I take my first brake [sic] from the kitchen in 12 years,” Koslow suggested. No word, yet, if said “options” include tackling that nouveau deli concept he floated earlier this month.
–Warren
Posted by Warren Rojas / Tuesday, June 28th, 2011
Wild animals are fair game on Gordon Vivace’s prep table:
The self-taught chef turned restaurateur opened Cucina Vivace on Crystal City’s fabled “restaurant row” a few years back and has been cultivating a loyal following ever since. He has since spun off a personal cheffing gig/meal delivery operation and has a cookbook in the works.
WR: Salt. Pepper. What other spices/herbs could you not live without?
GV: Basil, cumin, any number of hot peppers
WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered? How long did it take? Do you still make it today?
GV: I tend to cook in an old-fashioned Mediterranean style, so “mastered” could have a lot of meanings. My dishes often come out a little different from one attempt to another on purpose, and none are necessarily better than the others. It’s more a matter of what’s on hand to make them special that particular time. But, I suppose the first dish I feel I made that was unanimously accepted where people might not have liked it cooked by others is … chicken liver! I have a few secrets for transforming this ugly little morsel and, oh yes, I still make it whenever I can.
WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?
GV: Summer tomatoes, winter squashes and local meats like venison and boar.
WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …
GV: I don’t actually read too many cookbooks, though I’m fond of all the Lidia Bastianich books.
WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you make it again?
GV: Whole stuffed wild boar. And probably not.
WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to collaborate with …
GV: José Andrés
WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for yourself?
GV: Roast chicken.
I stuff the cavity with lemons, rosemary, peppercorns and a few ice cubes to help the flavors get into the breast once steam forms.
Roasted in a 400 degree oven, the prep time is about 10 minutes. Then I’m off with a glass of wine until I check on it 45 minutes later. Then it rests for 10-15. Total involvement time is about 15 minutes, 20 if I decide to make gravy (though it doesn’t need it). And it’s wholly satisfying.
WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss my …
GV: Italian Summer Grill Menu. Our entrees this summer are particularly geared toward the grill and many items will be disappearing in the fall.
WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …
GV: Elijah Craig bourbon
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Chef, stuffed boar and venison are right in our wheelhouse. But it sounds like we may have to give your chicken livers a whirl…
Come back next Tuesday for another helping of Red Meat.
–Warren
Posted by Warren Rojas / Tuesday, June 21st, 2011
Can chefs make it today WITHOUT a reality cooking show? John MacPherson certainly did:
But figures he’d cover all his bases and go the epicurean travelogue/educational cooking route as well. A self-taught chef, MacPherson has been delighting guests at the Foster Harris House with his culinary styles for several years now. He penned his first cookbook in 2009 and is poised to take to the airwaves with a new PBS series next fall.
WR: Salt. Pepper What other culinary elements could you not live without?
JM: Olive oil and butter. Olive oil finds its way into so many dishes…sautéed, baked, broiled, braised, grilled, raw, dressings. Bold and fruity or mild and clean tasting it is a must have for my cooking. And butter, there’s really no replacing its rich flavor and ability to make silky sauces, moist perfect baked goods and that perfect finish to a piece of fish or meat.
WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered? How long did it take? Do you still make it today?
JM: The omelet. I’m not talking about the mushroom, pepper, onion and cheese omelet you get at your local greasy spoon. I’m talking about the classic French omelet…a fresh egg, tablespoon of water, buttered omelet pan and low heat. I made hundreds before it was perfect. It’s still surprises me how delicious a simple omelet can be when prepared well.
WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?
JM: At the moment I’m enamored with beets. Colorful, sweet, earthy beets. Raw and julienned in a salad or slaw is quick and easy and adds so much flavor and texture. And then to roast them transforms them into these magical jewels that I can’t seem to get enough of.
WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …
JM: Pintxos: Small Plates in the Basque Tradition by Gerald Hirigoyen. Exciting flavors and combinations all wrapped up in little bites. Perfect for entertaining.
WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you make it again?
JM: Not that preparing it is particularly challenging, but very early on at the Foster Harris House I made individual Gruyere soufflés for 12 guests as part of a four-course breakfast. As I watched my soufflé’s rising in the oven and still waited for guests to come down to breakfast, I swore I’d never do it again. Now we do it regularly, but I only make soufflés on our guests second day with us, once I know they are punctual!
WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to collaborate with …
JM: Chef Patrick O’Connell at the Inn at Little Washington. What Chef O’Connell and his team do at the inn is an inspiration and the fact that its two blocks away from us makes us very happy and proud.
WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for yourself?
JM: Roast chicken and veggies. Can’t beat the aroma of a roasting chicken and you have leftovers for the next day:
Lemon herb garlic roast chicken – serves 6
1 roasting chicken, 3–4 pounds
6 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper
1 cup chopped fresh herbs, plus a handful of whole herbs
1 lemon, quartered
1 head of garlic
2 bay leaves
Olive oil
Heat the oven to 400°.
Thoroughly wash chicken inside and out and pat dry. Season the inside of the chicken generously with salt and pepper.
Blend the butter with a pinch of salt and pepper and the chopped herbs into a paste. Set aside.
With your fingers, carefully separate the skin from the breast meat, taking care not to tear the skin. You want to form 2 pockets as far towards the legs and thighs as possible. Carefully push the herb butter into the pockets, spreading it evenly under the skin.
Smash the garlic with your hand to break up the cloves and stuff it all inside the cavity, along with all the lemon, whole herbs and bay leaves.
Place chicken in a roasting pan, brush with oil and roast in the center of the oven for about 1 hour or until the juices run clear when pierced with a fork. If the skin starts to brown too much, tent the chicken loosely with foil.
WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss my …
JM: Our new PBS series, In Season!
WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …
JM: A glass of wine, Pinot preferably!
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Best of luck with your forthcoming TV show, Chef. We just might have to tune in…
Come back next Tuesday for another helping of Red Meat.
–Warren
Posted by Warren Rojas / Tuesday, June 7th, 2011
Having done the whole catering to the resort crowd thing, chef Jason Lage has decided to slow things down a bit:
(Image: Anastasia Chernyavsky)
He’s continuing the farm-to-fork mission he helped nurture at On the Potomac but is doing so in a much more intimate, countrified bistro–menu runs the gamut from familiar soup and sandwich combos to fanciful quiches and gourmet liver and onions send-ups–of his own design.
WR: Salt. Pepper. What other spices/herbs could you not live without?
JL: Basil, rosemary, cinnamon and nutmeg
WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered? How long did it take? Do you still make it today?
JL: My grandmother’s chicken soup. Still make it quite often.
WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?
JL: Corn, tomatoes, morels and asparagus
WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …
JL: Noma: Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine by René Redzepi
WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you make it again?
JL: Charlie Trotter’s Braised Tripe. It is very tedious to clean and is very labor intensive and time consuming. The whole process takes four days. Yes would make it again, not often.
WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to collaborate with …
JL: Jeffrey Buben. When at the stove he is hands down one of the best chefs on the East Coast. A lot of DC chefs owe their career to Jeff.
WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for yourself?
JL: A simple grilled cheese with gruyere and bacon [or] Papaya King hot dogs (a friend brings them down from NYC often) on New England-style rolls
WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss my …
JL: Short smoked Georges Bank scallops with creamy corn, Quarter Branch Farm tomatoes and basil from our garden.
WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …
JL: A Kalik. Nothing quenches your thirst after cooking on a hot line like an ice cold beer.
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We can’t imagine manipulating tripe for more than a few minutes, much less 96 hours. Kudos on your patience, chef.
Come back next Tuesday for another helping of Red Meat.
–Warren
Posted by Warren Rojas / Tuesday, April 19th, 2011
Working with kids can lead to utter chaos. Cookology chef Katie Reineberg feasts on such challenges:
(Image: Eliana Lima Campos)
The chef/culinary instructor devotes most of her time to helping little hands get better acquainted with the food they’ll inevitably lift to their mouths–a vital lesson given the clarion call for heightened nutritional awareness currently dominating the media landscape.
WR: Salt. Pepper. What other spices/herbs could you not live without?
KR: Garlic. I literally put it in everything. Always go with fresh garlic, never buy the stuff in the jar, it has little flavor and a lot of unnecessary preservatives.
I also used to develop recipes for a fresh herb company, so I like cooking with fresh herbs: basil, sage and chives are my favorite. Dried herbs, though, are definitely more economical and often preferred because they can withstand higher heat and longer cooking. If I had to pick a favorite I’d go with dried thyme because for me it most closely resembles the flavor of fresh.
WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered? How long did it take? Do you still make it today?
KR: I have been cooking at home since I was a kid and one year I decided I was going to make Christmas dinner for my mom’s entire family (12 people seemed like a lot more back then). I found a recipe for Filet de Boeuf Wellington and knowing that the men in the family are “meat and potatoes” kind of guys, it was an obvious choice. My grandmother and I bought all of the ingredients and early afternoon on Christmas day the whole family settled downstairs while I started to cook.
Let’s just say by the time I managed to clean the silver skin off the tenderloin, chop and cook the mushroom duxelle, wrap my head around what foie gras REALLY was, and stuff it all in puff pastry, it was at least 9:30 p.m. before we all sat down to dinner. My efforts did pay off though, and I still make Beef Wellington for family holidays.
WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?
KR: I am really big on cooking seasonally because the honestly the food just tastes better. Right now it’s all about berries, asparagus, and fresh herbs. In the summer I can’t get enough sweet corn and tomatoes. I love everything about the fall—the colors, the weather, and especially the food; I work apples and butternut squash into soups, salads, stuffings and whatever else I can. Any sort of roasted root vegetable—parsnips, beets and sweet potatoes—are the perfect winter comfort food.
WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …
KR: “Happy in the Kitchen” by chef Michel Richard. It is not a new book, but it is elevated food presented in a way that the everyday home cook could easily recreate. I have tried almost every recipe in the 300-something pages, and I love that he talks about the importance of each ingredient and keeps things simple, which is not typical of “modern” gastronomy.
WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you make it again?
KR: When I was in culinary school I tried to make my own chicken liver pate for a garde manger practical exam and it was awful (and by awful, I mean inedible). I haven’t tried again, but I think I’d give it another shot.
WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to collaborate with …
KR: I am pretty lucky in that I get to work with an amazing executive chef, Brad Spates, every day at Cookology. He is a great mentor. But if I had the chance, I’d love to work with Spike Mendelsohn on his involvement with Michelle Obama’s program “Let’s Move“, a healthy food initiative for kids in the Northern Virginia/DC area.
WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for yourself?
KR: There’s nothing better than a big bowl of fresh pasta. And it is quick, easy and healthy if you use the right ingredients. I make fresh whole wheat pasta dough in large batches then keep it in the freezer so I always have it on hand to quickly roll out. Or if I’m really in a rush, I just cook a box of dried. The following is one of my favorite sauce recipes—it is called “Pomodori al Forno” which roughly translates to “tomatoes from the oven.” It is a baked cherry tomato sauce that is so simple but really flavorful. Buon appetito!
Pomodori al Forno
2 pints cherry tomatoes, cut in half
7-8 cloves garlic, smashed
1/3 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons fresh Italian parsley, chopped
1/2 cup fresh basil, chopped
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup ricotta cheese
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
In a large bowl combine the tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, salt, pepper and crushed red pepper flakes.
Spread mixture out into an even layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet and place in the preheated oven for 18-20 minutes (you want the tomatoes to burst and the garlic to caramelize).
Transfer the entire pan (with oil) to a large bowl and toss with cooked pasta, the fresh herbs and half of the Parmesan cheese. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
To serve, top with remaining Parmesan and spoonfuls of the ricotta cheese. Serve warm.
WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss …
KR: Summer camps for kids at Cookology. It is so great to work with kids in the kitchen, exposing them to new ingredients, getting them to try foods from all different cuisines, and teaching them hands-on cooking and baking techniques. Check out the website for upcoming camp schedules kicking off June 20 and running through Labor Day!
WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …
KR: A big glass (or two) of red wine—something full bodied, spicy, with red fruit. With warm bread and cheese.
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The kids’ cooking camp sounds infinitely more useful than the endless dodgeball games we endured at summer REC. Thanks for helping to mold a more delicious future, chef.
Come back next Tuesday for another helping of Red Meat.
–Warren
Posted by Warren Rojas / Tuesday, March 8th, 2011
Crazy about crepes? Kyong Yi knows the feeling:
(Image: Alexandria Convention and Visitors Association)
The classically trained chef has been making mouths happy with her savory and sweet crepe creations for several years now down in Old Town Alexandria. She also boasts an impressive collection of imported French ciders–a constant distraction that threatens to turn sneak-a-peek lunches into afternoon-spanning visits.
WR: Salt. Pepper. What other spices/herbs could you not live without?
KY: Basil and hot red peppers.
WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered? How long did it take? Do you still make it today?
KY: Korean noodles tossed with kimchi and soy sauce. I used to make it for my father when I was growing up. I have not made it in couple of years.
WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?
KY: Tomatoes
WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …
KY: Soups!
WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you make it again?
KY: French macaroons. It’s a simple recipe but technique is so strict and too much chemistry. Yes, I love making it. It’s a challenge every time.
WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to collaborate with …
KY: Mark Furstenberg. Would love to learn how to bake breads with him.
WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for yourself?
KY: Spaghetti with fresh tomatoes, garlic, basil, crushed red pepper flakes and olive oil.
WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss my …
KY: Fontaine Crepe cart in Old Town Alexandria at Market Square
WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …
KY: Glass of water–there is nothing better at the end of the evening.
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Good luck with the food cart, chef. Though I think you’ll find the rolling crepe competition has gotten pretty fierce …
Come back next Tuesday for another helping of Red Meat.
–Warren
Posted by Warren Rojas / Tuesday, March 1st, 2011
It doesn’t get much more mom-and-pop than Fredericksburg’s Bistro Bethem:
(Image: Aby Bethem)
Northern Virginia native Blake Bethem, a Marine Corps vet turned Johnson & Wales grad, manages the back of the house while his wife, Aby, deals with the front/business side of the hospitality equation. Bethem deals primarily in classic French gastronomy, but also pays tribute to the local foodshed by featuring seasonal ingredients and some Southern accents.
WR: Salt. Pepper. What other spices/herbs could you not live without?
BB: Fennel seed and coriander.
WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered? How long did it take? Do you still make it today?
BB (as related to/by Aby Bethem): I will answer with gelato. (May not be the first, but it’s a good example). It was a passion of his [Blake's] to master an ice cream recipe starting in 2005. We researched and spent a considerable amount of money on a high end ice cream machine. Then it took many months of ‘tweaking’ the recipe for the base, so that it held correctly in our freezer, the way we serve it, flavor, etc. Finally, I remember the exciting day when he decided we had it figured out. More of a gelato style. Yes, we serve a lot of it. A staple component to our dessert menu. Now it’s more about experimenting with the flavor combinations. I saw a bag of mini marshmellows [sic] come in yesterday, so…
WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?
BB: Pea shoots. A glimpse of spring. Bright, green, fresh, etc. Gets you excited thinking of all the new fresh things that will be available soon. This past weekend, we had quail with a wild rice and pea shoot stuffing. Salmon topped with wilted pea shoots. Used as a garnish/topping.
WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …
BB: Momofuku by David Chang. I think it’s more about the philosophy being used.
“Momofuku is the anti-restaurant. The food eludes easy, or really any, classification. There is a focus on good technique, on seasonality and sustainability, on intelligent and informed creativity. But it is deliciousness by any means that they’re really going for.” – Peter Meehan
That motto is something that Blake has always done with our menu, it’s just seeing it in such a lovely book. Items I have seen incorporated on our menu recently: confit of fingerling potatoes, kim chi
WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you make it again?
BB: Foie Gras Tourchon–because there are a lot of factors that if not done perfectly will cause the dish to fail. Kind of like baking: it’s delicate, time consuming, temperature is the key. Yes, he will make it again and again.
WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to collaborate with …
BB: Terrence Gallivan, he is a close friend and a talented chef. Chef Gallivan grew up here in Fredericksburg. He worked in several restaurants in town during high school. After high school and during his early 20’s he worked with Blake at the restaurant here, (before we owned it), Bistro 309. It was with Blake that he realized that he wanted to go to culinary school. He has with hard work, drive and dedication worked in very reputable New York city restaurants. Working together is not something that would be relevant any time in the close future. I guess in a “maybe” situation, they would explore a “pop up” restaurant concept together, many years down the road–just for fun.
WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for yourself?
BB: English muffin with peanut butter. Simple, quick, protein and out the door. When you cook all day for others, you tend to not cook at home.
WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss my …
BB: Desserts
WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …
BB: Domaine du Salvard Sauvignon Blanc from Cheverny, France or Hendrick’s gin and our house-made tonic.
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Chef, not to hasten your retirement from Bistro Bethem or anything, but we LOVE the pop-up restaurant plan.
Come back next Tuesday for another helping of Red Meat.
–Warren
