Red Meat: Shannon Overmiller

Posted by Warren Rojas / Tuesday, February 22nd, 2011

Local Girl Does Good Great:

(Image: Meshelle Armstrong)

That would be a perfectly fitting headline for any profile of toque Shannon Overmiller, the spunky hometown gal who’s helped lead The Majestic back to its former glory AND re/introduced folks to the Rockwellian notion of sitting down together for at least one wholesome meal per week with her much-lauded “Nana’s Sunday Dinner” program. Turns out, she’s as obsessed with weekend suppers as we are with her regionally-inspired cooking…

WR: Salt. Pepper. What other spices/herbs could you not live without?

SO: I love cumin/cayenne as a spice. I also love rosemary and sage, but in moderation.

WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered? How long did it take? Do you still make it today?

SO: My cream of crab soup. It took me 3-4 times to master it. I cooked it for my boyfriend who is a chef as well for his first cooked dinner because I knew it was right on. Since he is a chef, I knew I better get it right. I still make it today, for every Thanksgiving! I do it at certain events like ZooFari as one of my staples.

WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?

SO: Summer: tomatoes, crabs, corn. Spring: peas, asparagus, Meyer lemons, ramps. Fall: chestnuts, butternut squash, apples (of course). Winter: stews and braises.

WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …

SO: Sunday Suppers at Luques by Suzanne Goin or Bouchon by Thomas Keller

WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you make it again?

SO: Foie terrine or torchon in puff pastry. I would make them again because they came out superb (as long as you follow instructions carefully). These are technical dishes that require following an exact method.

WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to collaborate with …

SO: Scott Drewno of The Source. He is such a good person and very talented. He is also very up and coming in the area. Another would be Fabio Trabocchi–I can’t wait to see his bistro food shine with his new restaurant, and I have a very Italian style with a lot of my cooking.

WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for yourself?

SO: Bacon and eggs or sausage or scrapple and eggs. Your typical breakfast, served with buttered toast, coffee and o.j. Breakfast is really special, especially when you cook it for you and your honey on your day off –or even just yourself.

WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss my …

SO: Our restaurant group opening our new expanding projects/restaurants!!! Coming in spring/summer this year.

WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …

SO: onto the couch! With a glass of Pinot Grigio or any nice cool, crisp white wine.

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Many of Overmiller’s favorite ingredients mirror my own. Suppose I should frequent the Majestic more often to take full advantage …

Come back next Tuesday for another helping of Red Meat.

–Warren

Red Meat: Tracy O’Grady

Posted by Warren Rojas / Tuesday, February 15th, 2011

Tracy O’Grady is quite the 21st century woman:

While others might be perfectly content with merely opening and operating an award-winning restaurant (Willow), this trailblazing toque developed her own cut of pork and represented the Old Red, White and Blue in the culinary gauntlet that was the 2001 Bocuse d’Or competition.

WR: Salt. Pepper. What other spices/herbs could you not live without?

TO: Thyme, savory, cumin, star anise, anise seed, fennel seed.

WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered? How long did it take? Do you still make it today?

TO: French onion [soup]. Twice. And yes.

WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?

TO: Davoncrest Farms squash blossoms

WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …

TO: One Potato Two Potato. I love potatoes (maybe it is an Irish thing).

WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you make it again?

TO: Moroccan Mishwe for the Bocuce d’Or. And no! It took two years to develop, was very complicated and I did not feel as though I perfected it.

WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to collaborate with …

TO: Ris Lacoste

WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for yourself?

TO: Lemon and Thyme Roasted Chicken, with Crispy Herb Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts

WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss my …

TO: Spring menu

WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …

TO: Yard’s Pale Ale

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Ask a single question, walk away with four incredible recipes. Did I tell you this lady was an overachiever, or what?.

Come back next Tuesday for another helping of Red Meat.

–Warren

A Taste of The Mason Inn

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, March 4th, 2010

On Tuesday I sat in on a chef audition for the new Mason Inn Conference Center & Hotel, which is scheduled to open this July in Fairfax, Virginia.  The Mason Inn is a new addition to the George Mason University campus and will be a LEED certified Silver facility with 150 guest rooms, a conference center with two ballrooms and 11 meeting spaces, and a restaurant and lounge.

The Mason Inn is run by Aramark Conference Centers, which reviewed over 100 resumes in search of a new chef that embraces the Mason spirit.  Shannon Sparrow, the Mason Inn’s Human Resource Manager, assured me the new chef would be passionate, not only about their work but about the university and the surrounding community, “The chef has to value and embrace the spirit of George Mason University and match the quality of the University.”

Applicants went through a four-stage process including a phone screening, an on-site interview, a technical interview with the corporate chef, and lastly, a tasting menu. 

Image: Dianne Murphy

The few chefs that make it to the final tasting round face a grocery bag with unknown contents and have two hours to prepare and present two plates of two courses each for a panel of five judges. 

Tuesday’s chef was provided the following ingredients: Branzino fish (also known as bronzini, spigolo, or Mediterranean seabass), a whole chicken, several vegetables, pasta, risotto, and couscous. 

The accomplished chef prepared a salad in addition to the main courses consisting of mixed greens, blood oranges, tomatoes, and a tasty dressing.  The first course consisted of a filet of Branzino with mushrooms and tarragon risotto in a flavorful fish stock.  The second course consisted of chicken stuffed with goat cheese and shallots over asparagus and pasta lightly drenched in garlic sauce.  I found all the dishes to be delicious, especially the second dish.

The Aramark team will cater to two markets:

1. 1. Conferences/ meetings with a fresh, healthy, nutritious yet edgy and fun menu throughout the week.

2. Weekend/ social events, which include celebratory and special events such as weddings that can also serve the local community.

Image: Newly appointed Chef Marc preparing the tasting menu. Photo by Dianne Murphy.

The yet-to-be-named restaurant and lounge will seat approximately 175 guests and the conference center will cater up to 400 wedding guests and a couple thousand conference attendees across campus.  The restaurant and lounge will be open to the public and the Mason Inn will also have its own catering license.

The newly appointed Food and Beverage Director, Andrew Saba, formerly of Loews Annapolis Hotel, brings a wealth of experience to The Mason Inn (Marcels, The Watergate Hotel, Tabard Inn).  He hopes to host wine and beer dinners and partner with local farmers and cheese makers within a 90 mile radius in order to serve local, sustainable foods.

The atmosphere will revolve around three areas: pride, passion, and perfection.  The Mason Inn and its employees are proud of George Mason—the man and the university—and Fairfax and the surrounding community.

–Aisha Salazar

James Beard Award Semifinalists Announced

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, February 18th, 2010

Outstanding Restaurateur

* Ashok Bajaj, 701/Ardeo/Bardeo/Bibiana Osteria-Enoteca/The Bombay Club/The Oval Room/Rasika – D.C.

Outstanding Chef

* Jose Andres, minibar – D.C.

Image: SF Weekly

Outstanding Restaurant

* Vidalia – D.C.

Rising Star Chef of the Year

* Johnny Monis, Komi – D.C.

Best New Restaurant

* Eventide

* J & G Steakhouse – D.C.

* Trummer’s on Main

Outstanding Pastry Chef

* Amanda Cook, CityZen – D.C.

Outstanding Wine Service

* Restaurant Eve

Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional

Image: Jonathan Timmes

* Derek Brown, The Passenger – D.C.

Outstanding Service

* Marcel’s – D.C.

Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic

* Cathal Armstrong, Restaurant Eve

* Tony Conte, The Oval Room – D.C.

* Melissa Close Hart, Palladio at Barboursville Vineyards

* Peter Pastan, Obelisk -  D.C.

* Dale Reitzer, Acacia

* Vikram Sunderam, Rasika- D.C.

* Bryan Voltaggio, Volt – Md.

The five finalists in each category will be unveiled March 22, with the winners honored at the May 3^rd Beard Foundation awards gala in New York.

–Aisha Salazar

Wam! Bam! Thank You … Emeril?

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, July 23rd, 2009

By Buzz McClain

Courtesy of Planet Green

Yours truly shared the frustration of trying to feed interesting fare to my divergent family (flexitarian daughter, protein-devouring son, hard working spouse) with the “Emeril Green” producers. Chef Lagasse took pity.

Catch my reality TV-cooking gauntlet—taped over six hours at the Fair Lakes’ Whole Foods—July 13 at 8 p.m. on Planet Green.

• 1:06 p.m.: I’m absorbed into the scrum of cameras, lights and boom mics that follow Emeril around. I shake his hand—the same one I’ve seen make chicken fried pork chops with andouille milk gravy on “Emeril Live.”
• 2:25 p.m.: We cruise the aisles looking for ingredients. Emeril admits he has no idea what we’re going to make.
• 2:45 p.m.: “Oyster sauce,” I ask, “does it have oysters in it?” He explains yes, wise guy, why do you think they call it that? “Well,” I say, “then what’s baby oil?” Emeril laughs (he gets my joke).
• 3:10 p.m.: The menu unfolds: Mongolian barbecue, vegetable lo mein, scallion and mushroom pancakes, and pickled radishes with daikon. I’ve never eaten—much less made—any of it before.
• 4:30 p.m.: There are few breaks once we start the marinades for the chicken and pork. Things speed up as he begins conjuring the meal. He’s doing this from his head. It feels like a magic trick.
• 5:15 p.m.: My family arrives on set to sample the fare. Of course it gets a passing grade; what else are they going to say? But it is good. I intend to keep it in my kitchen playbook for a long time.
• 6:00 p.m.: I depart with 10 pounds of Asian food prepared by Emeril himself—when’s that happening again? In an hour, I’m reheating it for dear friends who offer up good wine.

(July 2009)

Bring on the Butcher Shops

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, March 13th, 2009

Would that prime cuts of beefs and charcuterie could save our flagging economy.

(Photo: Laurent Jung)

Because this area boasts a slew of custom meat purveyors par excellence.

Tallula/EatBar ex-toque Nathan Anda left the Arlington gastrohub last summer to develop his own charcuterie concept, which has since evolved into the Red Apron Butchery. Though he’s still scouting final locations for the shop–something Anda hopes is “weeks, not months away”–Anda already envisions a full-service facility replete with homemade sauces, gourmet foodstuffs and exotic proteins.

“It’ll be an experience, going in there,” Anda insists. He plans to specialize in “stuff that isn’t available everywhere,” tossing out pig ear terrines, cured lamb bellies, handmade lardo and trotters as potential impulse buys.

In the meantime, Anda’s current catalog (cured meats, homemade hot dogs) will be available for retail purchase at Planet Wine and officially debuts in Buzz‘s panini line. Anda is also firming up his relationships with various local farmers markets, estimating that he’ll make the rounds to the weekly Ballston, Penn Quarter and possibly one other open-air showplace beginning early next month.

Anda is also talking with fellow Neighborhood Restaurant Group chefs Anthony Chittum (Vermilion) and Frank Morales (Rustico) about weaving some of his wares into their menus.

“Hopefully, in the coming months, he’ll be using my pepperoni,” Anda said of the spicy sausage he’s developed for Morales’ gourmet pies. He also plans to make his products readily available to incoming Tallula chef Barry Koslow–though he suspects the charcuterie-savvy Koslow will not want for jaw-dropping snackables.

“With Barry coming in, it’s [Tallula] going to be awesome,” Anda predicts.

Meanwhile, Robert Wiedmaier’s new gourmet shop, The Butcher’s Block should be up and running shortly. Chef Chris Watson will oversee a gourmet retailer (along with the fledgling BRABO/BRABO Tasting Room) poised to offer fresh breads, wild game and a bevy of Belgian beers.

Down the road in Del Ray, Aussie butcher Stephen Gatward has developed a loyal following at Let’s Meat on the Avenue by serving up hard-to-find items (kangaroo meat, anyone?) as well as neighborhood necessities (smoked dog bones).

For those who enjoy a a dash of intrigue with their entrails, the mercurial Jamie Stachowski continues to peddle his cured goodies in the darnedest places (next delivery: tomorrow at noon).

And I would be terribly remiss if I didn’t give a nod to the gourmet links that spring from the mind of improbable sausage baron, Stanley Feder.

We’ve never had it so good.

–Warren Rojas

Kitchen Consequential

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, December 17th, 2008

Local Cooking Schools Test Would-be Chefs’ Metal

Text and Photography By Warren Rojas

Although some might argue that the D.C.-Metro area lacks the glitz of established dining meccas like New York City, Los Angeles or Chicago, the roster of marquee chefs and nationally recognized restaurants that have set up shop within our very borders would suggest we are, at the very least, on the cusp of becoming a can’t-miss culinary stop on the national radar.

Our appetite for gustatory greatness means local restaurant owners, chefs and general managers are always on the lookout for those key front- and back-of-the-house personnel who can help keep their business humming along, or, better yet, propel them to the next tier of stardom by adding that final touch that sets patrons’ imaginations/reviewers’ hearts/the blogosphere on fire.

Lucky for them, that talent pool is being continuously stocked with starry-eyed perfectionists courtesy of The International Culinary School at The Art Institute of Washington, L’Academie de Cuisine and Stratford University School of Culinary Arts and Hospitality Management.

I went behind the scenes at each of the hospitality proving grounds to learn more about what it takes to make it in today’s rough-and-tumble restaurant market. After all, not every aspiring chef can expect to be handed a multimillion/billion-dollar property from some manic reality TV star (can they?).

The International Culinary School at The Art Institute of Washington

Location: 1820 N. Fort Myer Drive, Arlington
Founded: November 2007 (the culinary program was recently re-branded; culinary studies originally debuted in 2001)
Director: Dr. Susan Hendee
2008 tuition: From around $20,000 for a culinary skills diploma to roughly $90,000 for a bachelor’s in food and beverage management
Program length: From nine months (diploma) to three years (bachelor’s)
Total graduates: 135 (since 2003)
Website: www.exploreculinary.com

Starting from Scratch
Kirsten Wright, director of career services at The Art Institute of Washington, views the current crop of TV cooking contests as a “double-edged sword.” While the national attention is certainly appreciated, she worries that the shows “are glamorizing an industry that is a grueling choice. You spend all day on your feet, and you work while everyone else plays.”

Just don’t tell that to the fresh-faced teens who file into the Rosslyn-based campus daily in the hopes of carving out a place for themselves among today’s cooking elite.

Of the three local schools, the newly restructured International Culinary School seems to be the youth magnet, predominantly attracting recent high-school graduates who possess a desire to cook, but who are also looking for a traditional degree to fall back on. The Art Institute has helped court that demographic since 2001 by hosting annual Best Teen Chef competitions— each AI campus promotes local cook-offs, then sends their first-place winners to a national showdown at rotating AI locations (this year’s finals took place in Las Vegas).

Culinary student Matt Acampora said he’s been cooking since he was 13, having worked in various area restaurants, including a current gig at Lansdowne Resort. Having considered The Culinary Institute of America, Pennsylvania Culinary Institute, Johnson & Wales University and even neighboring Stratford University, he was already looking for some additional instruction when a partial scholarship helped seal the deal (though he insisted, “Stratford was nowhere compared to this”).

“You learn proper techniques here,” he said of his AI studies. “It’s helped me to become more successful and professional in my career.”

Culinary student Cecil Cox originally entered the pastry program, but has since decided to explore all sides of the restaurant trade—pastry, culinary and management—to maximize his hiring potential.

“School’s great. Because this is what I wanted to do,” he said, adding that the flexible scheduling and Metro accessibility made AI an easy choice.

Established pastry chef-cum-newly minted instructor Michael Roll said his night students tend to be “a little older, more responsible,” postulating that evening classes are often flush with already working professionals who come in, absorb whatever tidbits they need and methodically knock out assignments just so they can head home for the night.

Though often more trying, Roll said he enjoys helping younger students hone their budding talents.
“They get good,” he said of the dramatic improvements he sees in his classroom from week to week. “There are people who will stay in the area and do really well.”

L’Academie de Cuisine

Location: 16006 Industrial Drive, Gaithersburg, Md.
Founded: 1976
Director: Francois Dionot
2008 tuition: From around $23,000 (pastry) to about $27,000 (culinary arts)
Program length: Approximately one year
Total graduates: Approximately 1,340 (lifetime)
Website: www.lacademie.com

Everyday Iron Chefs
“Our professional programs tend to attract career changers,” L’Academie assistant admissions director Allyson Lara explained, staking the average age of their enrollees at around 27 years old.

As such, L’Academie doesn’t bother with any liberal arts-like electives. Instead, tightly knit groups of students (each section is limited to 24 students per semester) spend virtually every day of their abbreviated tenure mastering the art of producing multicourse meals on deadline in either L’Academie’s kitchens or at pre-arranged externships within various high-end restaurants.

“What we teach them is how to cook,” Lara maintained. “Everything else they can learn on the job.”

Most students arrive at the warehouse-like culinary complex toting some sort of caffeinated beverage, tool chests full of cooking utensils, digital cameras and lots of questions. Dry-erase boards crowded with complex French menus items—“French is the language of food,” Lara stressed—announce the cooking regimen to be covered each morning.

After several hours of instruction and a gourmet breakfast (instructors typically demo the dishes during each lecture, then send the finished plates around so students can inspect and taste the final products for themselves), each morning’s micro presentation becomes a macro challenge as phase I student teams attempt to replicate said meals for dozens of peers and L’Academie staff.

By the time they reach phase II, students must be prepared to cook for the parade of potential employers, including previous attendees Patrick Deiss (2941), Tracy O’Grady (Willow), Christophe Poteaux (Bastille), Tony Chittum (Vermilion) and Jeff Heineman (Grapeseed), who often guest-judge the high-stress “market basket” challenges—ingredient-driven showdowns not unlike those featured on reality cooking programs.

Program director Patrice Olivon sets each market basket in motion by revealing the core ingredients required, meeting with the predetermined teams to review their proposed dishes, then loosing them on the burners, stoves and tabletop grills over which they are expected to sweat out the details for themselves.

Once the clock starts running, the kitchen spins into a whirlwind of delicious chaos, as students battle to fashion daring new appetizers, entrees and desserts in record time.

One student offered me a nibble of a developing sweet potato-based mole, joking, “Just like Grandma used to make. Except totally different.” Another group hunkered down to weave together seared scallops and fennel fritters. Elsewhere, ambitious dessert-makers discussed plans to construct a molasses-gingerbread cake with fruit sorbet and spun sugar.

With mere seconds to go until the final presentation, one clearly frazzled but still-chipper student coyly smiled and yelled, “Game on!”

Good humor, it seems, is necessary, since the judging turns out to be a grueling two-hour tasting trial where every little detail is analyzed to death.

Award-winning chef R.J. Cooper (Vidalia) peppered his critiques with common-sense lessons students might not have considered while laying out their fantasy menus.

“That’d be $45 at my restaurant. That’s how much duck is there,” Cooper informed one group that erred on the side of generosity whilst plating. He urged the molasses-gingerbread team to be more prescient about the totality of every dish, noting, “It’s too smoky to add a $13 glass of port. That’s the way to think about it.”

A few minutes and several dozen bites later, Cooper found a little something he really liked. The praise came as gentle ribbing. “If you see this at my restaurant next week, you won’t get mad, right?” he asked. An unnerved, would-be chef quickly shot back a warm smile.

Stratford University School of Culinary Arts and Hospitality Management

Location: 7777 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church
Founded: 1981 (culinary); 1994 (hospitality)
Director: Richard R. Shurtz
2008 tuition: From around $24,000 for a diploma to approximately $63,000 for a bachelor’s degree
Program length: Varies from around 12 months (diploma) to three years (bachelor’s)
Total graduates: Approximately 1,400 (culinary) and 300 (hospitality)
Website: www.stratford.edu

From Theory to Practice
During the course of this investigation, at least one prominent restaurateur voiced concerns about the quality of Stratford’s culinary curriculum.

“I know that the more ‘for-profit’ schools have sent out a lot of graduates without the basic understandings of kitchen operations and without fundamental preparation for the realities of restaurant work; e.g., mise en place, discipline, etc.,” the hospitality professional bristled.

None of the Stratford grads we talked to, however, seemed to have any trouble finding work. In fact, several seemed to be on the fast track to success.

Dogwood Tavern executive chef Jeremiah Mahoney had already spent nearly a decade toiling in various kitchens before going on to receive his associate’s in culinary arts from Stratford, but the veteran toque said he still found the experience enlightening.

“I just had a limited knowledge base, and it kind of helped open that up,” he said of his Stratford studies, crediting time spent absorbing the background of different foods and classic cooking styles with greatly expanding his personal repertoire.

“Some of it I already knew and had mastered. Some of it I didn’t know at all.”

Matt Finarelli, a one-time web guru-turned-up-and-coming sous chef—you can read more about the astonishing career 180 on his personal blog—said Stratford helped fill in the gaps that had built up over a lifetime of self-instruction.

“It put names to the things I had sort of already done,” he said of the technical vocabulary he acquired while completing his associate’s in culinary arts.

With degree in hand, Finarelli bounced from Cafe Tirolo (learned to cook high-volume), to Restaurant Vero (gleaned a host of fine-dining techniques) to his current post at Rustico, where he does everything from open the restaurant, handle inventory and purchasing and tackle “anything else that Chef needs.”

His efforts did not go unnoticed by Rustico executive toque Frank Morales, who tapped Finarelli to help draft operating protocols for his forthcoming Logan Circle restaurant (at press time, the establishment remained very much in flux) and hailed his “on-time, can-do mentality.”

“There are some skills that (Finarelli) possesses that no one can actually learn,” Morales said. “He is an incredible asset to this restaurant and will continue to grow within this organization.”

Moreover, Morales said that his experiences working with both L’Academie and Stratford have firmly convinced him that hometown cooking grads are the way to go.

“I prefer local schools to my alma mater,” the CIA alum said of his current hiring inclinations, explaining that locals naturally “understand the likes and dislikes of the area” better than outsiders.

Morales noted, however, that he’d be happy to bring in any CIA grads with roots in the D.C.-Metro area.

Meanwhile, Finarelli urged anyone considering making the move into professional cooking to start by checking out a cooking class or two and then gauging whether they have the fire required to endure life behind the burners.

“It’s a totally different lifestyle,” he counseled. “But you can kind of baby step your way into it.”

(August 2008)