Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
By Warren Rojas
At one point in “Best in Show”—Christopher Guest’s droll send-up of competitive dog shows—one of the stars recounts how he used to drive his mother insane by rattling off every type of nut he could think of.
Health food mogul Jared Mizrahi, on the other hand, drives his competitors crazy by making every nut he can think of even better.
The brains behind Blue Mountain Organics, Mizrahi has been focused on bringing raw foods to the masses ever since he sampled some soaked almonds at a gathering hosted by his future wife. He has since branched out with dozens of specialty nuts, seeds, blended butters and other natural foods.
According to Mizrahi, roasted nuts often break down as part of the cooking process and subsequently spoil much faster—hence the reason most processed nuts are covered in artificial preservatives. “People are spicing them to hide rancidity,” he charges.
He claims his “Better Than Roasted” line is prepared according to a four-day, multi-step purification process that involves soaking, rinsing, spreading and culling each batch until only whole nuts remain. The treated nuts are then slow roasted (just below 108° F) to help preserve the natural oils and nutrients within. Once processed, each BTR product is also restricted to a three-month shelf life to ensure freshness.
“I guess I just have really high standards,” he says of his stringent business practices.
When pressed about his passion for organic foods, Mizrahi confides, “I definitely feel like it’s a medicine. And that’s part of what we do here—food as medicine.”
Moving forward, he says he’d like to dabble with some sweeter snacks, including “sticky nuts” (assorted nuts coated in agave syrup) and “cocoa nuts” (nuts + chocolate—pretty sure this one will take).
BMO favorites include:
»Totally Nutz Organic Almonds: robust flavor, prominent crunch
»Totally Nutz Organic Cashews: crunchy start, buttery finish
»Totally Nutz Organic Apricot Kernels: fragrant kernels hide a fruity center
»Just 4 Nuts Butter: extra chunky and full of flavor
»Cashew-Pistachio-Brazil Nut Butter: creamy texture, exotic undertones
»Berry Powerful Trail Mix: packs a jaw-pleasing crunch with a delightful fruit chaser
»Love Bites Pecan: chewy fruit cluster with powerful golden raisins.
(May 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

“The Oldways Table: Essays & Recipes from the Culinary Think Tank”
Part cookbook, part food bible, “The Oldways Table” promotes not just healthy living, but thoughtful eating.
The group celebrates food in all its forms, promoting the merits of sustainable agriculture and experimental cooking, while railing against “techno foods” (homogenously processed items). The indispensable tome weaves together thought-provoking essays by chefs, dieticians and all-around food lovers with over 100 worldly recipes broken up by category—grains, fruits and vegetables, beans and legumes, nuts and peanuts, olive oil, butter and other fats, cheese and yogurt, fish, meat, sweets—with bonus chapters on condiments and quickie wine pairings.
Some of the novel sensations captured within include: brioche pizza with prosciutto and figs; chicory casserole; sweet-and-hot, rum roasted peanuts; paximadia (Greek bruschetta); roast rabbit with lemons and olives; and, hazelnut-cocoa biscotti. For more information about the book or the Oldways mission, visit: www.oldwayspt.org
“The Oldways Table: Essays & Recipes from the Culinary Think Tank”
K. Dun Gifford & Sara Baer-Sinnott. Ten Speed Press, 288 pgs. $32.50.
(April 2007)
Virginia is for (Cheese) Lovers
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
By Warren Rojas
Let California keep their giggling, mischievous cattle. We’re doing just fine with the hard-working herd at neighboring Marshall Farms.
Marshall Farms Natural Cheese founder Deanne Marshall says the family dairy operation has been up and running for over 40 years. Now in their fifth year as cheesemakers, the family produces eight all-natural selections culled from the milk of their grass-fed herds, including:
»mild/medium/sharp cheddar »traditional pepper jack »traditional Monterey Jack (extra creamy) »bacon-chive cheddar (great combo) »Monterey Jack with dill »garlic-chive-parsley cheddar »caraway cheddar (reminiscent of homemade rye bread), and »sun-dried tomato-basil Monterey Jack (fresh basil steals the show)
“The cheese is made with no added hormones, steroids, antibiotics or pesticides,” Marshall asserts, adding that her hottest sellers to date include the garlic-chive-parsley cheddar, sun-dried tomato and basil, pepper jack and traditional cheddar.
Meanwhile, Marshall is considering experimenting with some new flavors—like a cracked pepper cheese—but plans to wait till after they are granted certified organic status this April. “We’re really starting to establish a name,” she says, noting that repeat customers keep popping up at statewide wine festivals and local farmers’ markets.
Marshall Farms’ cheeses are available locally at retailers like Wine Styles in Fair Lakes, and at area vineyards like Doukenie Winery (formerly Windham Winery), Chrysalis Vineyards, Pearmund Cellars, Old House Vineyards, Lake Anna Winery and Rappahannock Cellars. For more information about Marshall Farms cheese, please visit: www.marshallscheese.com
(April 2007)
Historical Hooch Returns to Mount Vernon
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

George Washington’s Distillery and Gristmil
George Washington. Patriot. Statesman. Whiskey Baron?
Like his fellow Founding Fathers—Thomas Jefferson was a big French wine buff while Benjamin Franklin espoused the benefits of beer—Washington was a fan of the drink. His beverage of choice, however, was good, old-fashioned whiskey. The first president enjoyed it so much, he had a distillery built near his home.
According to historical records, Washington produced approximately 11,000 gallons of whiskey just two years later, which netted him a handsome $7,500 profit. “It’s accurate to say, George Washington was the largest whiskey distiller in the country,” a Mount Vernon spokesperson estimates.
Today, you can get a sense of how Washington stocked his private liquor cabinet by touring the newly restored Mount Vernon distillery.
The original distillery featured five copper whiskey stills which have been faithfully replicated in the new distillery, set to open April 1. The renovated facility is expected to serve as the “gateway” to the American Whiskey Trail—a path celebrating the landmark whiskey producers that have contributed to our cultural identity.
“The reconstructed distillery will mark the only historic site in the country capable of showing the early American distilling process from seed to barrel,” according to Mount Vernon personnel.
At the fall 2006 dedication ceremony, Prince Andrew, the Duke of York, received one of 24 commemorative bottles of straight rye whiskey produced and aged at Mount Vernon for three years. A pair of bottles from the same first-run set sold for $100,000 at a charity dinner benefitting the estate.
Thanks to a new law, distillery visitors should be able to purchase mini bottles of American Vatted Whiskey—a blend of 11 different U.S. bourbons, including Jack Daniel’s, Maker’s Mark, Virginia Gentleman, Wild Turkey, George Dickel, Jim Beam, Woodford Reserve, I.W. Harper, Rebel Yell, Platte Valley and Very Old Barton—beginning July 1. The 120 proof sour mash is pronounced yet still smooth and comes with a keepsake shot glass; the entire package is expected to retail for about $25.
Tickets to George Washington’s Distillery and Gristmill—located at 5514 Mount Vernon Memorial Hwy., Alexandria—can be purchased individually ($4 for adults; $2 for children ages 6-11; free for children under 5) or bundled with a full Mount Vernon Estate admission ($15 for adults; $12 for seniors; $7.50 for children ages 6-11; free for kids under 5). For more information about the Distillery, please visit: www.mountvernon.org. For more information about some of the other historical stops along the American Whiskey Trail, please visit: www.americanwhiskeytrail.com
(April 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

Moveable Feasts
“Most of the foods we eat today are accidents of history,” postulates author Gregory McNamee in his epicurean expose, “Moveable Feasts.” By faithfully tracing the origins of 30 now-commonplace foodstuffs—arranged alphabetically, from almond to wheat—he presents a culinary ethnography exploring why we eat what we eat and how the foods achieved worldwide fame.
Along the way, McNamee sprinkles what sounds like fact (cranberries, blueberries and Concord grapes are the only native North America fruits) with folklore (“put a carrot next to an apple and both will turn bitter overnight”). He also recreates a handful of recipes culled from personal experience and obscure cookbooks, including creations like asparagus with meat sauce (from an Andalusian text), Bill Clinton’s chicken and broccoli enchiladas (submitted by the former president to an unnamed charity) and a Senegalese beef and potato stew.
“Moveable Feasts: The History, Science and Lore of Food.”
Gregory McNamee. Praeger Publishers, 216 pgs. $39.95.
(March 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

Good Clean Fun Disposable Placemats / Courtesy of Fresh Baby
Good news for parents of messy tots: playing with your food is now one of the easiest ways to save the planet.
Joan Ahlers and Cheryl Tallman, the sibling team behind eco-minded Fresh Baby, have added another all-natural timesaver to their growing arsenal of child-care products with Good Clean Fun Disposable Placemats—biodegradable placemats made entirely from corn.
The earth-friendly table coverings are illustrated with kid-friendly designs, including a counting worksheet displaying the first 10 cardinal numbers in English, French and Spanish, and another emblazoned with the smiling faces of various endangered species (including the black rhino and giant panda). Artistic types can color to their hearts’ content with the four soy crayons included in each bundle, and parents can re-use the mats by simply wiping away the colors once junior finishes. Each placemat also features built-in glue strips to properly secure them to the dining surface selected.
According to Tallman, folks are already going ga-ga for the innovative place settings. “People are really excited about the color-on feature and the entertainment value for their kids,” she says. “And the big bonus is the guilt-free nature about it.”
Each package of Good Clean Fun Disposable Placemats ($9.99) contains 10 non-slip mats and four soy crayons. The placemats are currently available at www.freshbaby.com, and Tallman says they should be in our local Whole Foods stores this spring.
(March 2007)
Falcon Glen Vineyard Takes Flight
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

Photography by Warren Rojas
The Warrenton wine scene doubled in size this winter with the debut of Kate Marterella’s Falcon Glen Vineyard, a lifelong ambition finally realized after nearly a decade of planning.
A former sales exec turned housewife turned amateur vintner, Marterella has been working closely with fellow Virginia winemaker Brad Hansen (from Prince Michel vineyards) to cultivate her eight signature wines.
Almost seven years after the initial planting, Marterella is now ready to share the fermented fruits of her labor at a newly completed tasting facility. The multipurpose building overlooks her five acres of vines and includes a full kitchen along with a 16-seat dining area outfitted with a flat panel TV and surround-sound stereo. “It’s not just about the wine. It’s about the experience and having a good time,” she says of all the high-tech extras.
Marterella estimates that she has sold about 125 cases of wine since her soft opening in late 2006. And she is already planning the release of a new Pinot Grigio this summer, followed by a Chianti-style Merlot-Sangiovese blend coming this winter.
In the meantime, she is excited about the imminent arrival of the on-site fermentation tanks and storage barrels, which will allow her to coordinate the first on-site crush later this fall.
“All I want to do is make great wine,” she beams. “I love what I do.”
Marterella’s current catalog includes:
Vidal Blanc » a light, citrusy, semi-dry table wine
Chardonnay » a fresh, yet full bodied white
“Rosalie’s Rose” » a medium-sweet, Merlot-Vidal blend; Merlot-Petit Verdo blend » hints of oak, berries and sweet spice on the nose; mouth-filling flavor; Cabernet Franc » awash in lush fruit and firm tannins
Meritage » a well balanced Merlot (75 percent)/Cab Franc (16 percent)/Petit Verdo (6 percent)/Cabernet Sauvignon (3 percent) blend, flush with ripe fruit and plenty of muscle
“Sweet Nothings” » a fruity Chambourcin designed to complement dark chocolate
“Grace” » a Vidal Blanc dessert wine with a honey-melon nose and green apple notes on the palate.
Marterella winery 8278 Falcon Glen Rd., Warrenton; 540-347-1119; www.marterellawines.com
(March 2008)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

Artfully Chocolate / Photography by Warren Rojas
Local confections and homegrown art have a new home in Artfully Chocolate, a gourmet boutique in the bohemian Del Ray neighborhood.
Eric Nelson, a former trade association exec turned independent businessman, launched the gourmet chocolate shop/private gallery as a way to promote his artistic endeavors. And while he says he has sold maybe a dozen pieces—assorted works include light-bending paintings and ornate, mosaic reliefs (prices range from about $400 to north of $2,000)—most customers come for the candy.
“I’m continuously surprised by the appetite for chocolate the people in Del Ray have,” Nelson states.
His collection includes assorted truffles from local chocolatiers Kingsbury Chocolates (Old Town Alexandria) and Artisan Confections (Arlington), crunchy, nut-flavored pralines from ex-2941 pastry chef and L’Academie de Cuisine grad Christopher Blume (Alexandria) and assorted macaroons from Mother’s Macaroons Gourmet Bakery (Arlington). Meanwhile, fudge gets shipped in from Stone Mountain Gourmet Fudge in Colorado, although Nelson says he is looking for a local supplier.
The shop also stocks a wide array of novelty treats (from chocolate band-aids to martini mix), chocolate-related books and spa products (including scented candles and body lotion), and even faux chocolate doggie treats.
116 E. Del Ray Ave., Alexandria. 703-635-7917. www.artfullychocolate.com
(February 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, December 3rd, 2008
DRY Soda Delivers Mouthwatering Refreshment
By Warren Rojas

Photography by Morgan Howarth
Tired of feeling “left out” during dinner outings while pregnant (wine was a no-no, sparkling water lacked pizzazz), epicurean entrepreneur Sharelle Klaus came up with DRY Soda—a gourmet cooler for those bored with high fructose corn syrup-bearing fare.
Each “culinary soda” boasts a bare-bones blend of carbonated water, cane sugar, all-natural ingredients and phosphoric acid. DRY currently produces four wild flavors, including: rhubarb (a refreshingly tart entry inspired by Klaus’ grandma’s summer pies), lavender (subtle flavor tickles the back of your throat), kumquat (a symphony of bright citrus notes) and lemongrass (pleasant spice makes this feel like a more mature ginger ale).
Klaus claims her alterna-beverages are already a big hit with West Coast foodies and cocktail mixologists. “People are so excited about what we’re doing,” she says, adding that she already has two more “cutting-edge” flavors in the pipeline for 2007 and is mulling seasonal offerings.
(February 2007)