Posts Tagged ‘Food & Wine’
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Tuesday, December 2nd, 2008
Gather round for a rundown of the hottest dining spots NoVa has to offer.
By Warren Rojas / Portrait Photography by Jonathan Timmes / Food Photography by James Kim & Marisa Zanganeh
The 25 Best list is, for better or for worse, a reflection of where our diverse citizenry—including the intrepid foodies, famished government workers, celebratory families, roving gourmet clubs, starry-eyed couples and everyone else I encounter during my never-ending dining excursions—gathers together to break bread and enjoy a nibble of the good life.
How those tastes have changed.
Over the past 16 months, almost a third of the restaurants tapped for our inaugural fine-dining roundup have either closed or are undergoing significant changes (see sidebar for a quick peek at the dearly departed). During that same period, about a half dozen of D.C.’s most talented chefs crossed the Potomac to breathe new life into old friends (Anthony Chittum), blaze a totally new culinary trail (Morou Ouattara) or further their brand by bringing their particular vision to the Commonwealth (Jamie Leeds).
Read on and I think you’ll agree, D.C.’s loss is definitely our gain.
RATING SCALE: 0.1-2.5 Poor to Fair / 2.6-5.0 Fair to Good / 5.1-7.5 Good to Excellent / 7.6-10.0 Excellent to Outstanding
AVERAGE ENTREE PRICE: $ Under $12 / $$ $13-$20 / $$$ $21-$30 / $$$$ $31+
Restaurant Eve
$$$$ Food: 9.6 Ambiance: 9.1 Service: 9.3
110 S. Pitt St., Alexandria; 703-706-0450; www.restauranteve.com. Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.
Armstrong shows lobster some love
Success has yet to spoil local restaurant mogul in the making Cathal Armstrong—the driving force behind Eve, Eamonn’s and the recently resuscitated Majestic (see page 72 for full review). If anything, the mounting pressure seems to have stoked even greater ambition.
Eve remains the center of Armstrong’s culinary universe, the showplace where dedicated chowhounds (Tasting Room), curious gourmands (the Bistro) and cash-strapped foodies (the lounge) can indulge in epic dining tours on their own terms.
Astute servers readily provide guidance (know the ingredients and interplay of their dishes), comfort (homemade breads are doled out with reckless abandon) and support (wine bottles are kept close for quick pouring but never crowd the table).
Every visit provides Cathal and company another chance to dazzle guests with organic surprises (Armstrong proudly supports Polyface Farms), re-tooled standards, jaw-dropping collaborations, or any combination thereof.
The innocuous sounding “bacon egg and cheese” weaves crisp romaine, a sunny egg, salty ham and shaved Parmesan into a rich tapestry anathema to basic salads. A stinging sea nettle and scallop soup embraces fingerling potato risotto (stellar). Fried veal sweetbreads emerge surrounded by crispy oysters and cubed country ham. Pepper-crusted pork belly—one dining companion warned, “I may inhale this” —virtually dissolves into a lake of onions, peas and cherry tomatoes.
Willow
$$$ Food: 8.8 Ambiance: 8.6 Service: 7.2
4301 Fairfax Drive, Arlington; 703-465-8800; www.willowva.com. Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.
A gift worth unwrapping at Willow
Willow may no longer be the new kid on the block, but experience appears to have imbued chef Tracy O’Grady with the wisdom required to carry the restaurant into its golden years.
A popular spot along the Ballston corridor, Willow was plagued early on by issues of scattershot service, uneven cooking and just generally too high expectations. Staff now seems to have settled into a comfortable rhythm, popping up at regular intervals or at least apologizing ahead of time if they know they need to sew things up elsewhere before turning their full attention to you. Next up: Stop whisking unfinished plates back to the kitchen, only to return empty-handed (those were leftovers, and they were mine).
The food that does make it out to the tables is typically worth fighting for.
The bread surrounding an applewood-smoked bacon and gruyere BLT is stained sunrise orange from all the glorious bacon fat (jackpot!). Blue cheese-stuffed dates are absolute showstoppers. Salmon baked beneath a parchment-like potato crust (quite tasty) is almost upstaged by playfully sweet ricotta pancakes. Sultry pork chops enveloped in a second skin of homemade sausage (makes its bacon-wrapped contemporaries seem totally lazy) are escorted by a mesmerizing cipollini and salsify tart. Bite-sized peanut butter sandwich cookies never fail to please, nor does the sinfully rich dark chocolate layer cake.
Bazin’s on Church
$$$ Food: 8.7 Ambiance: 7.8 Service: 7.3
111 Church St. N.W., Vienna; 703-255-7212; www.bazinsonchurch.com. Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday and Sunday brunch; closed Monday.
The buzz on Bazin’s continues to grow. And with good reason.
Partners Patrick and Julie Bazin have upped the ante on neighborhood dining with a come-as-you-are establishment that seems to appeal to everyone from graying expense account holders to penny-pinching 20-somethings out for a little pampering.
The plasma TV above the handsomely outfitted bar remains religiously tuned to the Food Network. (Catering to the crowd or the ultimate in subliminal programming? You decide.) Brick walls, exposed rafters and glossy wood tables communicate a basic but contemporary feel. Servers dutifully patrol the main dining room, but never rush the cadre of businessmen who seem to linger beyond their allotted lunch hours to squeeze in one of the astounding desserts.
A gourmet quesadilla replaces traditional Tex-Mex style fillings with shredded duck, flanking the barbecue bird with a smoky chipotle cream sauce and zesty salsa fresca. Citrus oil-spritzed asparagus come accompanied by a delightful fried goat cheese fritter (savory coin helps buffer the acidic dressing). A warming beef stroganoff unites tender steak, onions and mushrooms with sour cream-soaked spaetzle (well done). Salmon goes southern atop stone-ground grits finished in a marvelous shrimp-tasso sauce. Assorted chocolate and seasonal fruit creations keep dessert lovers happy.
The comprehensive wine list boasts plenty by-the-glass options from well-respected regions. Bottles start at $25 for a 2005 St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc.
Carlyle
$$ Food: 8.1 Ambiance: 7.6 Service: 7.7
4000 S. 28th St., Arlington; 703-931-0777; www.greatamericanrestaurants.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily, Sunday brunch.
Carlyle’s feisty crab fritters
The crown jewel of the locally owned Great American Restaurants empire, Carlyle continues to cement its reputation as an all-occasion destination by plying patrons with edible Americana, unflagging service and just a hint of well-earned bravado.
A long-time anchor of the now-booming Shirlington promenade, Carlyle appears perennially packed by legions of baby-toting couples (typically parked along the outdoor patio), extended families (sprinkled throughout the two-level dining room) and random groups of fun-loving friends (fixtures at the standing-room-only bar).
A team-oriented service strategy means help is never more than a flick of the wrist away, though most servers proactively quash potential problems—drinks are refreshed like clockwork, addictive rolls from the neighboring Best Buns Bread Company arrive toasty warm—to avoid unpleasantness later.
But man cannot live by bread alone.
Alien-looking crab fritters (crispy tendrils convey an “it came from the sea” feel) deliver blue crab bobbing in a grilled corn and peppers cream. Beef back ribs are swabbed with a mustard-molasses glaze well worth getting your hands dirty for. Brown butter-kissed chicken can be spit-roasted for on-the-bone enthusiasts (good) or sauteed with arugula, peppers, capers and mushrooms over angel hair pasta (better).
Beer and wine prices veer from respectable (by-the-glass pours are all less than $10) to ridiculous ($5.25 for a bottled Corona?). Instead, let loose with a signature cocktail or specialty martini.
Zeffirelli
$$ Food: 7.9 Ambiance: 7.7 Service: 7.7
728 Pine St., Herndon; 703-318-7000; www.zeffirelliristorante.com. Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner daily.
The Zeffirelli empire expanded this year with the acquisition of Tysons fixture Da Domenico. And while the Leesburg shop seems to play more with pastas, and Da Domenico remains the go-to spot for die-hard veal chop aficionados, the flagship Herndon Zeffirelli keeps the seats filled by wooing regulars and newcomers alike with delicious Tuscan cooking.
The double-decker dining room remains packed with local business types during lunch, while families and groups of friends claim the lion’s share of tables at dinner and on weekends. Staff in patterned vests and colorful ties hover attentively but never badger, lingering just long enough to rattle off their list of daily specials, refresh a glass or tempt you with tales of their homemade desserts.
Bacon-wrapped shrimp or clams casino make for easy pickings with a group, but patrons can go lighter with a breezy tomato, mozzarella, olive oil and scattered basil salad (very refreshing). Homemade lasagna does not want for dairy, layering the noodles and ground veal filling with mozzarella, Swiss and a touch of cream (molto cheesy). Roast rainbow trout emerges lightly crisped and smothered with capers, black olives and diced tomatoes.
Expect a dozen mixed reds and whites by the glass, while bottles start at around $30 for regional whites and climb to $300 for a 2001 Gaja Barbaresco. Other noteworthy finds listed under “Cellar Selections.”
Foti’s
$$$ Food: 8.8 Ambiance: 8.6 Service: 8.5
219 E. Davis St., Culpeper; 540-829-8400; www.fotisrestaurant.com. Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner, Thursday through Sunday and Tuesday; closed Monday.
I know, I know. Driving beyond the Beltway for a meal sounds preposterous in our rush hour-ravaged corner of the universe. Luckily, memories of the inspired cuisine at Foti’s tend to last significantly longer than the round-trip commute.
First-time restaurateurs Frank and Sue Maragos seem to be flourishing, having received regional acclaim as well as ample praise from Culpeper natives happy to have such fine cooking right down the street.
Most nights, extended families and spiffed-up couples mingle freely amidst the exposed brick walls and hardwood floors that frame the longish main dining room. Nattily dressed servers (dig the electric blue shirts) can speak at length about their favorite wines—expect about a dozen mixed reds/white by the glass, all less than $11; bottles start below $30 and climb to $140 for a 2004 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape—or specialty dishes, but occasionally disappear for unexplained stretches.
The menu holds few real surprises, but offers plenty to enjoy.
Tender snails arrive sauteed in a terrific garlic-butter-bacon broth worth sopping up with the polenta cake bedding (a Gallic-Roman masterpiece). Doubly cooked chicken (flash-seared, then baked) benefits from a homemade rosemary-oregano-thyme rub, while pork gets a boost from a grilled onion and hickory smoked tomato-based barbecue sauce. Meanwhile, one unforgettable chiller folds goat cheese, raisins, mint chocolate and lavender into dark chocolate ice cream (my tongue is still doing back flips).
Hank’s Oyster Bar
$$ Food: 8.1 Ambiance: 7.2 Service: 7.1
1026 King St., Alexandria; 703-739-4265; www.hanksdc.com. Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday and weekend brunch; closed Monday.
First came Cathal Armstrong’s fried everything emporium, Eamonn’s. Now we have our own branch of chef Jamie Leeds’ quirky, New England-style seafood shack, Hank’s Oyster Bar.
My poor arteries ache. But it truly hurts so good.
The lightning bolt-shaped Alexandria location features about a dozen seats up front, a central bar and a few more tables in back. Flickering tea lights and tulip-filled shot glasses masquerade as modern decor. Most nights, the crowd includes shorts-clad boomers and baby-toting Xers who take the longish waits in stride by sipping wine on the front steps.
Crunchy goldfish crackers preface every meal, while fresh oysters from all around the country—Washington, Rhode Island, California and, of course, Virginia—are advertised alongside daily blackboard specials.
Baskets of fried Ipswich clams (joyously crunchy) tend to disappear quickly when dining with friends. An intriguing blend of bluepoint oysters, Bloody Mary mix and sake almost always turns heads and invites conversation. The signature lobster roll mixes succulent meat with celery, onions and mayo, heaps the chilled seafood medley into a buttery roll, then seals the deal with Old Bay-spiced fries (great deep brown spuds). Sablefish arrives seared in a soy-balsamic glaze that caramelizes on top while injecting smokiness within.
Budget-friendly wines abound (bottles peak at $80 for Veuve Clicquot Champagne), but many dishes seem to call out for a nice cold beer (check out the craft brew selection).
La Bergerie
$$$ Food: 8.4 Ambiance: 8.2 Service: 8.2
218 N. Lee St., Alexandria; 703-683-1007; www.labergerie.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Traditional French will never go out of style at La Bergerie, an Old Town Alexandria standard for fans of seductive foods in plush environs.
The warehouse-bound but still tony establishment provides a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of more touristy spots sprinkled up and down King Street. Well-appointed servers (sharp as ever in their signature dark slacks and copper-colored vests) are ever attentive and pleasantly accommodating. Dining recommendations are readily provided without a whiff of pressure, individual dishes are presented with a heartfelt “bon appétit,” and tables are cleared without so much as an interruption.
The seasonal menu is regularly stocked with gourmet delicacies (pheasant, foie gras, veal sweetbreads, wild boar), as well as French staples (sauteed snails, baked onion and Gruyère soup).
The made-to-order Caesar salad summons a visual feast, as servers whir into action assembling the now-ubiquitous salad from its base—think freshly cracked eggs, salty anchovies, streams of Worcestershire and crisp romaine leaves—ingredients (a delight every time). Duck confit heads to the highlands via a shepherd’s pie layering shredded duck (fatty in spots, but mostly flavorful) with wild mushrooms (great building block) and whipped potatoes (clever twist on the rustic meal). Medallions of roast pork are bathed in a luxe Roquefort sauce (more molten cheese, s’il vous plait!) that thrusts ordinary swine into the big time.
The Majestic
$$ Food: 7.9 Ambiance: 7.2 Service: 7
911 King St., Alexandria; 703-837-9117; www.majesticcafe.com. Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday though Sunday; closed Monday.
Once in danger of falling prey to a corporate takeover (the horror!), the clearly charmed and quite charming Majestic has come under the wing of Cathal Armstrong and Co.—an adoptive family that remains determined to restore this storied establishment to its former glory.
Snapshots of the restaurant through the ages dot a mustard-colored entranceway. Natural light pours into the basic but cozy main dining room through overhead skylights. The new owners installed chef Shannon “Red” Overmiller (a Restaurant Eve protégé) in the kitchen and gave Maria Chicas (Eve cocktail guru Todd Thrasher’s wife) free reign of the main dining room.
So far, so good.
The nostalgic menu reads like a gourmet picnic roster, emphasizing cleverly tweaked comfort foods. Overmiller also attempts to rewrite history every Sunday by preparing a let’s-all-gather-round-the-table-style meal (seasonal entree, homemade sides and dessert, all included) not seen since reruns of “The Donna Reed Show.”
Chicken salad hoists white meat chicken tossed with potatoes, celery and tarragon in herb mayo between buttery toast slices (better than most delis). Blue ribbon-worthy barbecued pork arrives dressed with caramelized onions and thick, country slaw (carrots and cabbage add crunch). Roast pork gets a hand from bacon-braised cabbage and apples sauteed with onions (a sweet-and-sour symphony). Deconstructed icebox cake scatters mint chocolate chip ice cream, plain vanilla and a pile of crumbled chocolate wafers into separate camps, then drizzles hot fudge throughout.
Vermilion
$$$ Food: 8.5 Ambiance: 8.3 Service: 8
1120 King St., Alexandria; 703-684-9669; www.vermilionrestaurant.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Chef Anthony Chittum, who most recently kept watch over the D.C. kitchens of Notti Bianche and Dish, has used his particular brand of culinary magic to turn Alexandria’s Vermilion white-hot.
No longer merely a wine bar or after-hours spot, the Neighborhood Restaurant Group-owned Vermilion now boasts some of the most refined cooking within the local dining chain. Whereas cocktail junkies used to pace through the dining room until a spot on one of the plush chaise lounges in the back or an open bar stool materialized, foodies are now coming around to drink in and devour the restaurant’s seasonally pegged manifestations.
Chittum has taken to re-tooling the menu about every other month—a move that stokes such powerful get-it-while-you-can buzz the most popular dishes tend to sell out before the end of your average dinner rush.
Savory sweetbreads flanked by savoy cabbage and pomegranate seeds are the stuff of legend. Diver scallops in caramelized truffle oil provide the sweet, while mini-stacks of gratin potatoes surrounded by sauteed leeks come through with the salt. Crab imperial stuffed-trout (blistered skin, stark-white flesh) is absolutely wonderful with homemade spinach fettuccine. Elsewhere, brassy roast chicken hits the barbecue mark, only to be sabotaged by a limp citrus-shelled bean succotash.
Look for nearly two dozen mixed whites and reds by the glass (all under $8), plus half-glass pours offered for, you guessed it, half-price.
Patowmack Farm
$$$$ Food: 9 Ambiance: 8.8 Service: 8.5
42461 Lovettsville Road, Lovettsville; 540-822-9017; www.patowmackfarm.com. Open for dinner, Thursday through Saturday, weekend brunch.
Sometimes I think it’s the bucolic setting. Others, I find myself dwelling on those thought-provoking morsels that fool the eye into believing one thing while the mouth experiences another.
All I know for sure is that Patowmack Farm keeps calling me back. And I’m only too happy to oblige.
The epitome of seasonal, organic dining, Patowmack Farm performs magic with the very foods that poke up through its soil. Chef Christian Evans shifts his menu with each subsequent harvest, fashioning the farm-fresh ingredients into culinary flights of fancy.
Homemade breads envelop ingenious vegetable-fruit pairings (blueberry-fennel was divine, zucchini-squash delivered healthfulness by the bite). Fresh cheeses never fail to astound, be they a goat milk blue rolled with fresh asparagus, chives and a sunny marigold bud (magnificent) or a Camembert-laced risotto patty floating peacefully atop a lush asparagus broth. Deviled spinach salad brings a sugary pastry stuffed with an alluring bacon-egg blend. Pan-seared duck accompanies an over-easy egg draped across rosemary-flecked potatoes, then finishes them all with wild mushrooms and grilled squash ragout (outstanding). Grilled sea scallops dance atop a fabulous mussel salad encircled by smoked salmon. Homemade panna cotta arrives with a crispy cinnamon cookie that doubles as your spoon. A mixed berry mille-feuille forges sugary pastry, blueberries, wine berries, crème anglaise and fresh spearmint into the perfect summer send-off.
Farrah Olivia
$$$ Food: 9.2 Ambiance: 8.6 Service: 8.4
600 Franklin St., Alexandria; 703-778-2233; www.farraholiviarestaurant.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily, Sunday brunch.
Should visiting foodies ever question our area’s culinary chops, shuttle them directly to Farrah Olivia and let Morou Ouattara propel them into gastronomic oblivion.
One bite into most dishes, people marvel at the unexpected flavor combinations. By the third bite, they’re left wondering why nobody put such wonderful tastes together before. Then again, not every restaurant can lay claim to a West African-born, sensory-bending tactician like Ouattara.
The streamlined main dining room is all about transparency and charm, employing little else than ample sunlight and scattered snapshots of the restaurant’s sprightly namesake to set the mood. The deceptively short menu—curt descriptions sometimes fail to adequately express the sum of the typically exotic parts—can give first-time guests pause, but many servers are conversant enough in the head-scratching cuisine to steer novices toward at least seemingly familiar territory.
Gourmet breads arrive with fascinating spreads like bok choy pesto (thick, herby fun) and horseradish ricotta (lumpy, spicy goodness). An amuse of seared rabbit and espresso-charged potato soup kick-starts the appetite. Strips of flash-seared escolar are escorted by a hill of red wine powder and pickled plum (thrilling). Ham and eggs go gourmet in a sandwich featuring truffled ham, sauteed mushrooms, a fried quail egg and rich cheddar sauce (a lunch triumph). Cured quail is all tender breast meat and crispy drumsticks splashed with seductive chorizo oil.
Bellissimo
$$$ Food: 8 Ambiance: 7.9 Service: 7.2
10403 Main St., Fairfax; 703-293-2367; www.bellissimorestaurant.com. Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.
It’s a bit hard to tell which came first at Bellissimo: the mountainous portions of homemade pasta (sizable plates all but guarantee leftovers) or the fiercely loyal patrons. What is clear is that the conflux of the two makes it that much harder for us regular folks to indulge in Bellissimo’s well-worn charms.
The tiny Fairfax locale houses maybe a dozen highly prized tables—most nights, the place is overrun by families, clusters of friends and boomer couples—framed on both sides by vibrant coastal frescos. Decorative columns and other Roman mementos help complete the Italian feel, but the food is the main attraction here.
Menu choices include a handful of pastas, along with loads of veal, poultry and meat (lamb, filet) options. Seafood creeps into various pasta dishes, appetizers and salads, while also bolstering numerous stand-alone favorites.
One fettuccine standard goes grand with a pungent marinara anchored by spicy Italian sausage bits and a hail of crumbled goat cheese (tangy cheese folds into the herb-infused sauce beautifully). Swordfish pescatore summons a terrific swordfish steak (remarkably tender) sauteed with mussels and shrimp in a winey tomato broth. Fried calamari is good, but the crunchy squid can’t salvage its clumpy polenta counterpart.
The exclusively Italian wine list touts approximately five dozen bottles, including nearly two dozen Piemonte and Tuscan reds, all under $120.
Ray’s the Steaks
$$$ Food: 8.2 Ambiance: 6.1 Service: 6.6
1725 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-841-7297. Open for dinner daily.
The atmosphere inside at times approaches bedlam. And the bare white walls will not be winning any design awards. But if it’s gloriously grilled beef you crave, Ray’s is definitely the place you want to be.
A true everyman’s paradise, Ray’s has become a community treasure by abandoning the corporate sizzle (no dress code, no reservations, kids of all ages welcome) in favor of superlative steaks. Owner Michael Landrum’s egalitarian vision, however, naturally leads to a throng of anxious patrons who must jockey for position before the doors open each night.
Stacks of wine partition the tightly knit dining room—it’s not unusual to bump elbows with your neighbor as you gleefully carve into a steak; just apologize and get back to business—from the always buzzing kitchen/prep area. Upselling seems verboten, though patrons are welcome to customize any entree with bonus toppings (saucy mushrooms, crumbled blue cheese, house marinades) for $1 a pop. Sauteed garlic and alternative cooking techniques are provided gratis.
A handsomely charred rib eye (blackened crust protects the naturally juicy meat within) shines even brighter with a dab of homemade horseradish. Sirloin Diablo summons cubes of spicy oil-splashed steak surrounded by more sauteed garlic and onions (hardly needed, but always welcome). Or go for broke with a jaw-dropping N.Y. strip smothered with blue cheese, mushrooms and onions (a steal at any price).
Tachibana
$$ Food: 8.4 Ambiance: 6.3 Service: 6.6
6715 Lowell Ave., McLean; 703-847-1771. Open for lunch and dinner daily.
One peek at the fascinating array of glistening fish and other from-the-depths delights stored beneath the glass at Tachibana’s main sushi counter, and you just know you are in for a genuine treat.
Owners of this venerable Japanese eatery have garnered so many awards for their amazing sushi catalog, they’re running out of places to properly display all the plaques. Better they run out of wallspace than seats, since regulars (a roughly 50-50 split between native Japanese and in-the-know Westerners) seem to snatch up the majority of tables at any given time. Solo diners, on the other hand, tend to gravitate toward the long, half-moon-shaped sushi counter up front or the smaller sushi counter in back rather than wait for vacancies in the dining room.
Behind those counters, classically trained sushi chefs spend hour upon hour artfully scaling, gutting and slicing all the fresh seafood at their command. And their dedication is greatly appreciated.
One tempura roll marries glossy tuna and fiery jalapeno (tuna pops, jalapeno rocks). Hamanegi maki combines already robust yellowtail tuna (all-fish flavor) with a smattering of flaked bonito (a bold tuna-on-tuna tag-team). Shaved plum and minty shiso take your taste buds by storm (lip-smacking fruit is unbelievably flavorful). A chef’s choice sampler bears a dozen mixed maki and nigiri rolls featuring everything from red surf clam (terrific) to mackerel to butterflied shrimp (tasty but dreadfully familiar).
Claiborne’s
$$$ Food: 7.9 Ambiance: 7.5 Service: 8
200 Lafayette Blvd., Fredericksburg; 540-371-7080; www.claibornesrestaurant.com. Open for dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, Sunday brunch.
No mere novelty stop, Claiborne’s uses low-country cuisine to coax big smiles from its many travel-weary customers.
The renovated train station remains intimately connected to its transit-related past. Watch carefully, and you’ll notice the historic railroad photos all around the main dining room tremble ever so slightly as the passenger and commercial freight lines buzz by on the adjoining railway.
Whether the passing trains bother staff, you’ll never know, since the nametag-sporting (a bit hokey, but informative) servers appear focused on little else than anticipating your every need. Management typically pops by at least once per meal to confirm that everything is progressing smoothly, a formality that is more often than not unnecessary, given the ready amount of genuine hospitality showered upon every table.
The menu weaves together Southern favorites from land, sea and air.
Chevre lovers can climb the fried green tomato tower straight to heaven, as the skyward-reaching vegetable rounds arrive affixed with bounteous scoops of potent goat cheese. A crunchy catfish plate brings two whopping cornmeal-crusted filets set afloat on piquant tasso gravy (creamy bliss) and accompanied by some seriously garlicky collard greens. One harvesty platter summons medallions of cider-spiked swine (tender and oh-so-sweet) flanked by garlic mashed potatoes and braised cabbage.
Cigar enthusiasts, take note: After-dinner stogies can now only be enjoyed outside, given that the entire restaurant went smoke-free this summer.
Bebo Trattoria
$$ Food: 8.3 Ambiance: 7.6 Service: 5.9
2250-B Crystal Drive, Arlington; 703-412-5077; www.bebotrattoria.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Helpful hints for the Bebo staff: Menus are typically appreciated. Empty glasses need refilling. Piping-hot pizzas cannot be cut with plain flatware.
Pardon for opening with this painfully obvious refresher course, but the continually scattershot service
at Bebo is particularly hard to stomach for those of us who remain smitten with Roberto Donna’s often brilliant cooking.
To his credit, Donna always appears to be around, whether that means personally supervising a pizza-making lesson/birthday party one weekend, snipping fresh basil for a lunchtime pizza order or catching up with old friends mid-dinner rush. To his detriment, Donna always appears to be around, which means he’s either incapable of correcting the long-standing service issues or he’s become accustomed to the pained looks stamped across so many of his guests’ faces.
Regulars know well enough to pounce on any open bar stools (thanks for always taking care of us, Stephanie). Sit anywhere else and you take your chances.
The food is typically more of a sure thing. Ricotta-filled prosciutto rolls ride in on an ash-stained crust (wood-fired oven adds smoke, character to the dough) topped with sweet tomato sauce and pools of molten mozzarella. A gorgonzola and sweet onion pie performs a perfect balancing act on the tongue. Jumbo pasta tubes are covered in a robust pork ragu (juicy meat just falls to shreds). Meanwhile, rabbit and homemade sausage pop up all across menu.
Lightfoot
$$$ Food: 8.5 Ambiance: 8.6 Service: 8.3
11 N. King St., Leesburg; 703-771-2233; www.lightfootrestaurant.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily.
No need to slip the host a sawbuck or practice your name-dropping skills to secure a table at Leesburg’s much-beloved Lightfoot. But chances are, you’ll leave this former bank feeling like a million bucks.
The sprawling, two-story restaurant integrates recycled vault accessories and vintage memorabilia to establish a quiet cool, then drops the lights real low to keep things nice and mellow. Clientele ranges from martini-toting girlfriends who seem quite content to gossip at the bar all night to mixed groups just as happy to pass plates back and forth so everyone can sample chef Ingrid Gustavson’s modern cuisine.
The menu tilts towards the sea (seasonal crab, halibut and salmon specials took center stage during recent visits), but land-lovers have nothing to fear.
Woodsy mushrooms and fresh goat cheese are baked into a flaky pasty puff (earthy richness). Creamy, spinach-laden stock is dotted with amazing little potato dumplings that simply melt in your mouth. No need to hunt for lobster in the soothing house bisque, a brew stocked with sweet lobster meat, homemade pasta and a smattering of salmon caviar. A grilled-to-order lamb T-bone (ideal for even the most discerning carnivore) is virtually bulletproof, whereas seared duck (done quite well, indeed) can’t fly high enough to escape a cluttered citrus risotto (bits of asparagus and sweet peas are good; pomegranate-orange-truffle oil emulsion seems like overkill).
Foundation
$$$ Food: 8.4 Ambiance: 8.4 Service: 8.2
9112 Center St., Manassas; 703-368-3427; www.foundationmanassas.com. Open for dinner, Thursday through Sunday, Sunday brunch.
It took all of two years, but Okra’s owner Charles Gilliam can finally say Foundation is ready to stand on its own.
The fine-dining extension of Gilliam’s casual Cajun bistro, Foundation started strong under the direction of some ex-Commander’s Palace toques, but quickly sputtered last winter following changes in the kitchen. Enter chef Matthew Wood, another Big Easy transplant who has re-energized the cozy yet daring establishment.
Dinner guests are always greeted with a welcome bit of bubbly before being escorted into the wonderfully intimate dining room. Gabby gourmands can belly up to the marble chef’s bar, pole positioning for those who wish to chew the fat with Wood while he prepares his five-course tasting menu (changes weekly).
A batch of signature dishes exploring mostly international themes cycles through seasonally, while Creole favorites seem to remain evergreen.
Cakey homemade biscuits are the perfect foil for fantastically spicy andouille gravy. A hollowed out tomato adds acidity to a wondrous seafood salad of chilled crab in a mustard-lemon aioli (very refreshing). Shrimp- and crab-stuffed crepes are blanketed by a lemony beurre blanc finished with threads of fresh dill (flavorful sauce, filling plate). Well-seasoned lamb chops (good, but a bit too bony for the price) are propped up by a curiously minty salsa verde. Dinner sweets are typically good, but the brunch-only beignets take the deep-fried cake.
Eleventh Street Lounge
$$$ Food: 8.4 Ambiance: 7 Service: 6.2
1041 N. Highland St., Arlington; 703-351-1311; www.eleventhstreetlounge.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch.
Ex-District toque Antonio Burrell has helped elevate Eleventh Street Lounge from hipster watering hole to foodie haven with his always adventurous and often challenging collection of sized-for-sharing creations.
The alterna-pub was already popular with locals and gourmet beer hounds (frosty pints of Stella Artois or Maredsous, anyone?), but turned a major corner last spring when Burrell—who completed tours at both Viridian and Vidalia before leaping over to Virginia—unveiled his ambitious new menu. Nowadays, you might see the same club kids and wannabe lounge lizards splayed out on the assorted couches and love seats you did before. But the maybe half dozen tables and high-tops that constitute the main dining area are becoming increasingly occupied by curious boomers who are probably more interested in sampling Burrell’s imaginative cuisine than they are in closing down the bass-thumping nightclub below.
Truffled eggs emerge as a crunchy quartet of fried oeufs dressed with a zesty horseradish aioli. Gourmet sandwiches like an updated Monte Cristo (sweet ham, smoked turkey and Swiss pressed between buttery brioche) are typically escorted by a salty-sweet stack of sweet potato and traditional french fries (great combo). Seared scallops sail into culinary history astride watermelon cubes stacked atop mint-avocado cream (amazing).
Signature martinis and specialty drinks are all the rage here. By-the-glass wines are all under $8, while bottles max out at $80 for a vintage Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon.
Ristorante Bonaroti
$$$ Food: 7.9 Ambiance: 7.8 Service: 8.2
428 Maple Ave. E., Vienna; 703-281-7550; www.bonarotirestaurant.com. Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Chances are you know about a dozen places for good pasta. But do any of those interchangeable eateries feature daily specials longer than most competitors’ standard menus and happen to be a guilty pleasure of one of the area’s most cherished sports stars?
If not, I suggest adding Ristorante Bonaroti to your mental Rolodex.
Most nights you can still find owner Sergio Domestici tending to tables (regulars describe him as “our favorite waiter”) or greeting guests at the door. Expertly trained staff follow suit by anticipating patrons’ every need (warm lemon water follows a course of sauteed mussels for quick cleanup).
Stop by enough, and you might even run into a Redskin or two (tight end Chris Cooley loves the beef carpaccio and is rumored to bring teammates around before home games).
Homemade ravioli are filled with ground lamb and blanketed in a tomato-rich ragu. Fettuccine Sergio coats the familiar noodles in a subtle Alfredo, then ramps up the entire experience with shredded ham and sweet, delicious snow peas. The otherworldly St. Honore cake looks like a profiterole-napoleon love child, combining flaky pastry dough, sweet custard, cream-filled, chocolate-covered bonbons, whipped cream and streaks of chocolate sauce.
The predominantly Italian wine list features by-the-glass and carafe selections. Bottles start at $24 for a domestic riesling and rocket to $1600 for the 1975 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcini “Il Greppo.”
Serbian Crown
$$$ Food: 8.3 Ambiance: 7.9 Service: 7.4
1141 Walker Road, Great Falls; 703-759-4150; www.serbiancrown.com. Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday; closed Monday.
As time marches on, so does the Serbian Crown, a throwback establishment characterized by its enduring grandeur and affinity for theatrics.
An Eastern European stronghold perhaps best known for its long-running gypsy dancing shows and strict allegiance to Franco-Russian cuisine, the Crown delights newcomers and regulars alike with tableside productions—deftly prepared Dover sole and freshly mixed beef tartare always raise a few eyebrows, while baked Alaska typically elicits gasps of delight—that are as amusing to behold as they are delicious.
Those with deep pockets can nibble on closely guarded servings of Ocetra and Beluga caviar. The rest of us can sneak a taste of the good life via no-less-pleasing red caviar mixed into sour cream-topped oysters (a regal, raw seafood delight). The aforementioned tartare combines pink-as-can-be ground beef with ground black pepper, onions, capers, flavored oil and raw eggs into a daredevil treat worthy of its namesake Asian invaders. Wild game selections don’t always hit (sauteed emu disappears into a too-strong green peppercorn sauce), but the ones that do are truly memorable (lion, anyone?). Other seasonal favorites include port-braised antelope (firm meat flush with flavor), Madeira-spiked wild boar (a solo feast par excellence) and savory venison creations.
Assorted wines are readily available. But with nearly two dozen name-brand vodkas and a rainbow of flavored varieties to choose from, logic dictates these meals go down with some of Russia’s frostiest spirits.
L’Auberge Chez Francois
$$$$ Food: 8.6 Ambiance: 8.1 Service: 8.8
332 Springvale Road, Great Falls; 703-759-3800; www.laubergechezfrancois.com. Open for lunch, Sunday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday; closed Monday.
No need to wait for a special occasion to plan a trip out to the always welcoming Chez Francois. Every visit here is an opportunity in and of itself to celebrate a shared passion for food, life and fellowship.
The quaint white cottage with bright red shutters, so familiar to devout gourmands and festive partygoers alike, continues to cement its place as a dining institution in an otherwise volatile restaurant landscape (see intro) by adhering to a fairly simple business plan: Spoil patrons rotten with authentically Alsatian food, hard-to-find wines and impeccable service.
Founder Francois Haeringer has passed the mantle on to his son, Jacques, who keeps the family’s 30-year legacy of hospitality very much alive. The Haeringers are aided, of course, by an army of seasoned service professionals with smiles almost as bright as the shiny gold buttons on their striking red vests.
A typical four-course dining adventure—it’s really six, if you count the seasonal amuse and intermezzo sorbet sent out gratis from the kitchen—can be custom tailored to include as much seafood, fowl or game as you like. One seafood medley summons a porcelain clamshell filled with nuggets of shrimp, crab and lobster in a terrific herb-cream sauce. The Papa Ernest plate unites sumptuous specimens of lamb (better), veal (best) and filet mignon (good), then seals the deal with a buttery half-lobster tail.
Bamian
$$ Food: 8.2 Ambiance: 8.5 Service: 7.3
5634 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church; 703-820-7880; www.bamianrestaurant.com. Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.
With its palatial decor and unabashedly Afghan menu, Bamian may seem a bit intimidating to first-time visitors. But repeat guests—the dining room gets more and more crowded with each visit—can attest to the overwhelming hospitality that is the heart of this thriving community touchstone.
Unsure which exotic vegetable dish or grilled meat to sample? Check with any of the incredibly gracious servers, many of whom start off soft-spoken but cheerfully open up when discussing their favorite native dishes.
The exhilarating bouranee baunjaun summons a spicy eggplant mash offset by mint-spiked yogurt sauce, best devoured atop warm pitas. A gloriously understated portion of subzi chalau rolls leafy spinach and white rice around until grain and greens unite in stir-fried bliss. Chopan kabob delivers chargrilled lamb ribs that are sparsely seasoned yet roar with flavor, with or without a dunk in the potent homemade chutney (packs a citrusy sting). Simply sweet goshe feel reveals curly sheets of fried dough dusted with powdered sugar and crushed pistachios (no-nonsense confections even dieters can enjoy).
Keeping with the times, the restaurant offers about a dozen mixed whites and reds by the glass (all under $8), while bottled wines start at $22 for a youngish Delicato White Zinfandel and top out at $29 for a St. Francis Merlot. Devout Muslims can enjoy chilled doogh or hot tea.
Café Renaissance
$$$ Food: 6.8 Ambiance: 7.3 Service: 7.5
163 Glyndon St., Vienna; 703-938-3311; www.caferenaissance.com. Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner, daily.
Veal sweetbreads may not be for everybody, but those of us who do enjoy them treasure the few places that can satisfy our offal itch. Sadly, Café Renaissance has pulled the specialty selection from its proudly Gallic carte—a not-so-subtle departure that has not gone unnoticed by this Vienna mainstay’s rapidly graying clientele.
A sentimental favorite amongst the Greatest Generation set, Café Renaissance remains a cozy retreat for devotees of traditional Eastern European fare. Though the alluring sweetbreads have disappeared—one waiter says patrons routinely call to inquire if it’ll be on daily special,
management claims they can accommodate special orders with just a few days notice—gourmet staples like calves liver Bercy and seasonal game dishes continue to satisfy.
Roast eggplant gives way to a pleasing ricotta and prosciutto filling. Flattened chicken filets arrive smothered in a brazen gorgonzola-tomato sauce bolstered by capers and black olives (bravissimo!). Tilapia leaps from subtly sweet to sublime after a quick soak in lemon butter with tart apples and sliced almonds. An eponymous pasta dish scatters a bounty of fresh mussels, shrimp and jumbo sea scallops in the homemade sauce of your choosing (vodka cream adds bite, olive oil and garlic let the seafood do the work) atop steaming capellini.
By-the-glass wines are limited, while bottles top out at $600 for a 1971 Chateau Latour Pauillac.
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Tuesday, December 2nd, 2008
Few Seats, Terrific Eats
By Warren Rojas / Photography by James Kim
Come fall, the days start getting shorter, the air gets chillier and your commute—well, that never changes.
So we figured we’d C if we couldn’t take care of dinner while traveling from point A to point B.
Here’s our grab-and-go guide for everything from sushi to made-to-order pizza. And though you might still need to turn the oven on when you get home, we’re pretty confident any dinner companions will gladly clean their plates.
Village Chicken
6230 Rolling Road, Springfield; 703-913-0617
Average entree under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.
Variety seekers would do well to make their way to Village Chicken, a tiny eatery fielding a bounty of mouthwatering chicken, beef and lamb creations.
This strip mall standout never skimps on the gravy, loading up their array of specialty rice bowls, custom salads and bulging gyro sandwiches with as much homemade deliciousness as they can handle.
The namesake Village gyro folds a protein triumvirate of shaved lamb (so tender), chicken (nice spice) and beef into a warm pita filled with lettuce, diced tomatoes, onions and a cooling splash of tzatziki sauce (terrific sandwich). A Cuban sandwich by way of Cyprus summons a doughy pita stuffed with shredded, roast pork and grilled ham, all smothered in a tangy sour cream sauce and flanked by lettuce and diced tomatoes (lacks the crunch of a proper Cuban, but the pork-on-pork power play does not disappoint). A chicken souvlaki salad reveals a forest of field greens bolstered by grilled chicken breast, diced cucumbers, tangy red onions, tomatoes and bits of crumbled feta.
Meanwhile, savory rice bowls layer mixed proteins—including favorites like the Caribbean-style Cuban (rice, black beans, stewed pork, tomatoes) and the home-style chicken chili (pulled chicken, soupy kidney beans, chopped onions, corn)—with mounds of steamed rice, mixed vegetables, assorted cheeses and various sauces.
Jamaica Jamaica
348 Victory Drive, Herndon; 703-481-8641; www.jamaica2x.com
Average entree under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.
It seems almost surreal that one would have to duck back into a Herndon business park for a bite of authentic Jamaican cooking. Then again, this sun-splashed island nation also has a world-famous bobsledding team …
Jamaican ex-pats Lloyd and Simone Washington founded their homey eatery a few years back and have watched their local fan base grow steadily ever since. Between the amazingly affordable prices (nothing is over $9) and generous array of hard-to-find Caribbean favorites (expect a daily array of chicken, oxtail and seafood selections), it’s easy to see why.
Hearty oxtail stew—a clear favorite, given the propensity for it to sell out on busy nights—reveals bulbous nuggets of tender beef (watch the bones) soaked through with spices; accompanying rice and vegetables provide a starchy base for the protein-packed brew. Goat stew summons a melange of curried meat (downright succulent) and vegetables guaranteed to get your heart rate pumping, especially after adding a few drops of the house “beware” sauce (expect a flash of heat, followed by enduring warmth).
As expected, the jerk chicken (the spicy-sweet zing is da ‘ting) remains head and shoulders above their traditional barbecue chicken (decent, but others certainly do it better). Meanwhile, the beef-, chicken- and newly available cheese-filled patties—baked cornmeal pastries brought in from back home—provide a terrific, hand-held alternative for those who tend to eat on the run.
Alvey’s Grocery
4661 Sudley Road, Catharpin; 703-754-4310; www.alveystore.com
Average entree under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Tender bird, superb sides
Granted, you can now get fairly decent fried or rotisserie chicken on just about every other block. But none of those commercial chicken huts can hang with the sides you’ll find at Alvey’s Grocery.
This family-run grocery seems to live and breathe poultry, hawking budget-friendly chicken specials several days a week—a six-piece, fried chicken meal with your choice of two 1-pound sides is just $8 on Mondays and Fridays, whole rotisserie chickens with two 1-pound sides are $9 on Tuesdays, and a 12-piece fried chicken dinner with two 1-pound sides is $15 on Saturdays.
One deli attendant says fresh rotisserie chickens are prepared daily at 8:30 a.m. and noon, while fried chicken is prepared at all hours. “We make chicken all day,” she insists. Rotisserie birds emerge covered in a bronzed skin that’s flavorful without being overly fatty. The fried chicken can seem a little dry from time to time, but the breadcrumb crust is typically good, and the wonderful homemade sides are always on point.
Chilly favorites include homemade chicken (shredded fowl, celery and some terrific spices) and shrimp salad (shrimp and noodles bound together by a whip-smart mayo-garlic salt blend). Hot bar must-haves include beefaroni (eat your heart out, Chef Boyardee), broccoli and rice (deadly delicious mess of diced broccoli and rice is stick-to-your-ribs terrific) or classic franks and beans (beefy hot dog bits swimming in a sea of savory-sweet baked beans). Best of all, the hot bar selections switch daily, running from international (Wednesday – Asian, Thursday – Spanish) to Friday’s All-American lineup.
America Seafood
4550 Lee Highway, Arlington; 703-522-8080
Average entree $13 to $20 ($$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.
That first bite gets me every time.
The crunch of the spice-laden filet starts my head swimming. The tang of the herby, homemade tartar sauce makes me pine for a lime-spiked beer. By the time I feel that momentary sting of sliding into a sun-warmed chair on the America Seafood patio, I almost believe I’m back at the beach.
That is, until the blaring horns on Lee Highway rattle me out of my landlocked daydream.
Owner Gary Royce brings the best of the sea to Beltway-bound drones via a variety of daily soups (crab, grouper and New England clam chowder), homemade salads (grilled tuna, smoked mussels, shrimp vinaigrette) and robust specialty platters (conch fritters, sauteed salmon, fried, soft-shell crabs). Virtually all the fresh seafood on hand can be made into a generously sized sub of your choosing.
A serving of grilled swordfish summons a hefty steak sporting a properly charred exterior and tender white meat within (ready to rock with just a squeeze of lemon). The fried scallop platter brings more than a dozen tender scallops encased in a crunchy, herb-breadcrumb shell (well-seasoned nuggets, but they get even better with a dash of hot sauce). Blackened rockfish requires no such intervention, delivering definitive spice and an abundance of flaky meat.
El Charrito Caminante
2710-A N. Washington Blvd., Arlington; 703-351-1177
Average entree under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner, Wednesday through Monday; closed Tuesday.
Charrito's bulky grilled beef burrito
Pressed for time? Need a quick, Tex-Mex fix? Then ground beef-filled tacos are just fine.
But if you crave a true taste of Mexico, you’ll need to stand in line at Arlington’s El Charrito Caminante just like everyone else.
This austere carryout is as plain as can be: a central counter, a grill perpetually crowded with homemade Mexican delicacies and a few stray stools for anyone who would rather eat than run. Most menu items cost less than $5—tacos are $2 each, burritos are $3, and traditional torta sandwiches are $4—and virtually everything is made-to-order.
The homemade tacos feature twin tortilla shells wrapped around a host of exotic fillings, including chorizo (crumbled Spanish sausage, mostly mild), carne de res (terrific, grilled steak), cabrito (slow-roasted goat meat comes densely packed, yet remains amazingly tender) and puerco (shredded swine can occasionally seem a little tough, but is typically still flavorful). A hefty beef burrito rolls thick strips of grilled flank steak together with beans, rice and the buffet of fresh vegetables—a homemade relish of diced green onions and ripe tomatoes—found in all the main dishes. The bulky Mexican torta is just as impressive, stuffing more grilled steak, savory pinto beans, cheese and the house relish into a bulging-at-the seams sub roll (magnifico).
Hooked
20789 Great Falls Plaza, Sterling; 703-421-0404; www.hookedonseafood.com
Average entree $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Enter hungry, leave a dragonslayer
Good sushi, naturally, requires fresh seafood. Great sushi requires exceptional seafood and the watchful eye of an expertly trained sushi chef.
So, what’s required for great carryout sushi? Merely calling over to Hooked to make sure chef Yoshi Katsuyama is working.
This nautically themed newcomer does nothing but seafood, which it does pretty well. But the real lures are Katsuyama’s enticing raw fish arrangements, ranging from the basic (fatty tuna on rice) to bountiful (the house Las Vegas roll combines crab, lobster and caviar sprinkled with a sweet marinade).
The fresh scallop roll summons lengths of meaty mollusk draped across their steamed rice bedding. New York roll ties together salmon and crisp apple with a blast of mustard (sounds weird, tastes great). Jumping coasts, the Malibu roll appeases seafood lovers with hunks of white meat crab wrapped around thick-cut asparagus, with bright orange roe poured over to fill in any gaps (impressive). Likewise, a special dragon roll surrounds tuna, spicy mayo and more caviar with a soy-soaked eel (soy provides the sweet, while the spicy mayo plays cleanup).
Want something a little more substantial to pad those tired old bones? Miso-marinated sea bass yields a lily-white medallion of fish with a honey-like finish. Heat seekers can savor the dozen or so medium-sized, lightly battered (thin breading barely coats the pinkish prawns beneath) shrimp tossed in a terrific hot sauce. Or fill up on the chifa rice, a Chinese-style, fried rice blend packed with seafood (shrimp, mixed fish, scallops) and just a touch of cumin.
Papa Petrone’s
4168 Merchant Plaza, Woodbridge; 703-878-4100; www.papapetronestakenbake.com
Average entree $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Let the scrambling begin
Easy ways to “shake up” your average pizza: Add a topping here. Switch sauces there. Inject ungodly amounts of cheese into every square inch possible.
When you are ready to truly break free from the carryout pizza mold, come see “Papa” John Petrone.
A nearly 20-year veteran of the bake-at-home dining scene, Petrone continues to reel in new customers and repeat business alike with his signature “scramble bread”—a piecemeal masterpiece of loose pizza dough, unlimited toppings (more than two dozen meats, vegetables and cheeses are always at the ready) and piles of scattered mozzarella. While baking, the mounds of dough puff up around the selected proteins and greens, producing a pick-apart sensation that begs for further experimentation.
“It’ll hook anybody,” Petrone says of his mountainous, priced-by-the-pound creation.
Homemade pastas (Petrone prepares everything in-house, using only egg whites for the noodles) include a variety of specialty raviolis ranging from standards like a portobello-mascarpone-caramelized onion medley (loaded with soft mushrooms and sharp cheese) to exotics like pumpkin and tarragon. Customers can also build a meal from familiar pastas (angel hair, rigatoni) and sauces (terrific white clam sauce yields loads of chewy clams steeped in butter and black pepper) or sample made-to-order stunners like his white lasagna (an all-out dairy assault featuring broad egg noodles interlaced with a proprietary blend of five cheeses and rivers of alfredo sauce).
Cosmopolitan
5902-A, N. Kings Highway, Alexandria; 703-329-3303; www.restaurant-cosmopolitan.com
Average entree under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Buh-bye bland boilerplate burgers
Gourmet burgers are becoming so ubiquitous. Corporate chains regularly trot out custom sandwiches sporting one “hot” topping after another.
BOR-ing.
Ready for a genuinely unforgettable burger experience? Stock up on Altoids. Brush up on your Bosnian. Then head over to Cosmopolitan and feast your eyes on the amazing pljeskavica.
Owners Ivica and Amela Svalina have been feeding fellow Slavic ex-pats for nearly four years, although Amela claims maybe 60 percent of their business comes from curiosity seekers and ethnic dining enthusiasts. Their tiny storefront contains little else than a drink cooler, a cash register and a TV perpetually tuned to European futbol matches. But much like the Great and Powerful Oz, they work some serious magic from behind the curtain that leads to their modest kitchen.
The so-called Bosnian burger summons a mammoth patty—a truely widemouth experience—of spiced ground beef smothered with sour cream and sliced white onions, pressed between a sourdough-like bun (the potent onions hit you from a mile away, while the silky cream-on-meat interplay is simply mesmerizing). The equally popular cevapcici heaps spiced sausages (put regular cocktail weenies to shame) into another homemade roll. The fabulous chicken pikata schnitzel produces a lightly-breaded chicken breast zapped with lemon (marvelous). Blast your taste buds even further with the peppery potato burek, a spiral pastry (looks like an elephant’s ear) filled with tender, diced potatoes. A spinach and cheese variety is just as filling, without the added spice.
Pie Gourmet
507 Maple Ave. W., Vienna; 703-281-7437; www.piegourmet.com
Average entree $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
A chocolate cream dream from Vienna's Pie Gourmet
If your pastry appreciation begins with “Three Stooges” clips and ends on the Marie Callender shelf of your frozen foods section, get thee to Vienna’s Pie Gourmet for a crash course in the art of primo baking.
The 20-year-old shop tempts patrons with rows of fresh pies—approximately a dozen seasonal savories along with 50-plus rotating dessert offerings—ranging from solitary wonders (chicken pot, pumpkin) to dynamic duos (crab and mushroom quiche, strawberry rhubarb). Most pies can be warmed up (heat at 375 degrees) in about 20 to 25 minutes if still at room temperature, or in about 40 to 50 minutes if frozen.
One crowd-pleaser takes the traditional sausage (crumbled, sweet Italian) and peppers conceit, rolls it with caramelized onions, eggplant and a robust marinara, then bakes the entire thing into a mountain of molto Italiano bliss (waves of flavor roll over you with every bite). A seafood number delivers mounds of sauteed spinach and flaky salmon protected by a bronzed cheddar and parmesan crust.
Whipped cream peaks blanket an ocean of rich chocolate fluff in the always popular chocolate cream pie. Or celebrate Halloween early with the terrific pumpkin bars (spiced pumpkin, sweet raisins and crazy rich cream cheese frosting, combined into a handheld slice of heaven).
Need something to nibble on the ride home? Tear into the cannonball-shaped stuffed breads—downy-soft rolls filled with zesty pepperoni (bleeds spicy oil with every bite), sweet Italian sausage (a diced pepper party) or a chicken-spinach combo.
(November 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 1st, 2008
Steakhouses for Every Occasion
By Warren Rojas / Photography By Anastasia Chernyavsky and Andy Robinson
Back before the advent of fad diets and media exposés about “good” and “bad” cholesterol, most red-blooded Americans consumed steak like it was their civic duty.
Today, steak remains a status symbol, though tastes seem to be skewing more toward designer beef—with authentic Kobe and non-traditional cuts like hanger steak fighting for grill space with your classic T-bone.
Steak-lovers: We must unite. Rather than carve out our own delicious factions, let us rally around the same chargrilled ideals. Our halls of worship await within.
Everyday Magic
Ray’s the Steaks
Rosslyn; 703-841-7297
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for dinner, Tuesday through Sunday; closed Monday.
The house special proves tender to a fault, delivering a pepper-encrusted NY strip swimming in a luxurious mushroom sauce and dotted with rich blue cheese chunks (marvelous).
The strict no reservations/full party seating-only policy at Ray’s the Steaks has most certainly sparked many frantic “where are you?” voicemails/texting pleas from diehard steak aficionados stuck waiting for admittance.
A small price to pay for the unbelievably affordable steaks being prepared within.
Devotees routinely line up hours in advance for a chance at one of Ray’s coveted 45 seats. Inside, the cacophony of chit-chat, ambient music and the clanging of plates as staff hustle to reset each table for the endless string of waiting guests all seem to battle for your attention. T-shirt and sneaker-clad servers remain in constant motion, tending to their tables, running orders and attacking any other job that needs doing.
And renegade restaurateur Michael Landrum wouldn’t have it any other way.
Having labored at various steakhouses and other dining establishments prior to launching the original Ray’s (a Silver Spring spin-off debuted in 2006), Landrum prides himself on applying fine-dining philosophies to a true neighborhood setting. He only uses single-breed (Angus, Hereford or Dutch Friesian), farm-raised beef. Steaks are hand-butchered and wet-aged for at least 45 days, in-house. Everything is seared over an open flame—an unconventional technique Landrum admits can prove tricky, but which he claims infuses his steaks with more flavor than the enclosed broilers favored by traditional chains.
No arguments here.
The jaw-dropping, bone-in rib-eye reveals a hulking mass of meat with plenty of muscle and just the right amount of fat. Each slice of well-marbled steak becomes even more irresistible when speared with any bonus grilled onions. The house special proves tender to a fault, delivering a pepper-encrusted New York strip swimming in a luxurious mushroom sauce and dotted with rich blue cheese chunks (marvelous). An amazingly lean hanger steak is absolutely dripping with vitality, nearly melting with each swipe of the knife.
A well-thought out wine list displays international favorites, all for under $100 a bottle, including over a dozen by-the-glass selections. Skillets of garlicky sauteed spinach (excellent) and chunky-style mashed potatoes accompany every meal, while unexpected sweets—a nibble of homemade fudge arrives with the check one night, a demitasse of rich hot chocolate another—provide closure.
Meanwhile, Landrum says that he is very pleased with the response to his new “A Place at the Table” concept—a prix-fixe service offered on Sunday nights, with half the proceeds going to local charity. “I’m just doing what restaurants should be doing,” he insists.
Perfect Presentation
Morton’s
Multiple NoVa locations; www.mortons.com
Average entree: over $31 ($$$$). Check locations for times.
Non-disclosure is never an issue at Morton’s, a steak emporium where transparency and showmanship go hand in hand.
The Chicago-based chain has built up its reputation by delighting customers with sterling service and top quality beef, the world over. “Consistency is our trademark,” stresses Roger Drake, Morton’s vice president of public relations, “which is what our guests expect.”
Staff address you by name from the minute you enter until you walk back out the front door, while regulars are often greeted with warm handshakes or half-hugs and genuine affection. The experience only intensifies during the tableside menu presentation—an interactive exposition of the restaurant’s signature selections where servers proudly display the mammoth cuts of raw steak, still-wriggling Maine lobsters and colossal garden vegetables that make up the heart of the Morton’s carte. Should sides be ordered, caddy-toting servers return bearing crocks brimming with fresh butter, sour cream and crumbled bacon to help dress any plain starches.
Then there’s the beef.
According to Drake, Morton’s serves only USDA prime, grain-fed beef supplied by the same Chicago meatpackers that started with the chain back in 1978. Drake says the suppliers typically wet-age each steak for between two and three weeks, and each steak gets finished in a 1200 degree broiler. He cites the 14-ounce filet, 20-ounce NY strip and 24-ounce porterhouse as the “featured cuts” at every Morton’s location.
Each meal commences with a jumbo bread round studded with crispy onion bits outside and a flaky interior. A simple starter of smoked salmon demarcated by clusters of horseradish, capers, minced onions and toast points coalesces superbly, while the eponymous Morton’s salad produces scattered romaine sprinkled with chopped egg and fresh anchovies.
A traditional porterhouse is all business, summoning a magnificently tender steak hiding pockets of fat that literally burst in your mouth. The Cajun rib-eye—marinated for 60 hours in Cajun spices—produces a generous slab of succulent beef soaked through with plenty of zest (not quite hot, but definitely exciting). NY strip emerges firm but flavorful, bearing a seared-on salt crust shielding a still-juicy interior. Boneless prime rib remains crisscrossed with veins of fat that provide a buttery release with each bite, and comes with a scorching homemade horseradish.
Like Butta’
Ruth’s Chris
Multiple NoVa locations; www.ruthschris.com
Average entree: over $31 ($$$$). Check locations for times.
The no-nonsense filet is amazingly tender, bearing slice after slice of mouthwatering beef artfully lubricated by the house butter treatment.
Bacon. Blue cheese. Hollandaise sauce. Seems everywhere you look these days, somebody is trying to top steak with the next big thing. But at least one visionary outfit continues to make millions with the original flavor saver: real butter.
Ruth’s Chris built its reputation on its sizzling steaks—butter-bathed cuts of beef served straight from their signature broiler (tops out at around 1800 degrees) to your table. Though the plates are virtually untouchable, it’s all worth it for that moment the steak actually spills all its natural juices as your knife pierces the seared-on crust. The dairy-enriched steaks have made true believers of everyone from Wall Street down to Main Street, as evidenced by the multitude of cigar-chomping business buddies who dine alongside giddy parents with kids in tow.
According to a Ruth’s Chris spokesperson, the allure starts with the USDA prime and USDA choice cuts served at all Ruth’s locations. The spokesperson said the company wet-ages all their steaks for three to four weeks, then preps the steaks with little more than salt, black pepper and parsley. Nearly every steak can be augmented with gourmet add-ons like blue cheese, au poivre or fresh crabmeat, but the spokesperson maintains that the plain filet mignon remains their most popular item.
And with good reason.
The no-nonsense filet is amazingly tender, bearing slice after slice of mouthwatering beef artfully lubricated by the house butter treatment. NY strip summons a well-marbled steak graced with a ring of protective fat. A generous rib-eye provides real steak flavor without all the connective tissue one might find on a flabbier cut. A massive T-bone is magnificently decadent, appropriately fatty in some spots, firm in others, yet layered with buttery richness throughout.
The dairy assault spills over into sides like au gratin peas (so glaringly bad for you, yet so delicious) and potatoes au gratin (an exercise in cream and melted cheese, the potatoes almost seem like an afterthought in this calorie blaster). Meanwhile, a sweet potato casserole seems like it should be bumped to the dessert menu (the sugary pecan crumble crust tastes like it would be more at home atop a coffeecake). Better yet, skip the starches and open with osso bucco ravioli (tasty pasta rounds filled with salty veal and cheese) accompanied by sauteed spinach. That way, at least you get some greens.
Wine Not?
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar
McLean; 703-442-8384; www.flemingssteakhouse.com
Average entree: over $31 ($$$$). Open for dinner daily.
Bone-in rib-eye
A great steak rarely needs embellishments to make it better. Not that it hurts to have roughly 100 vintage flavor enhancers always at the ready.
Early this year, Fleming’s—part of OSI Restaurant Partners, Inc., the owners of such corporate dining ventures as Outback Steakhouse and Bonefish Grill—unveiled a new “progressive” wine concept designed to showcase smaller winemakers and more global variety. The idea was to select 100 wines (corporate picks the core 60, and individual restaurants fill in the remaining blanks with regional/personal favorites) that would complement steak without offending the wallet.
The oenological experiment seems to be working.
The Tysons list is broken up into about a dozen categories (sauvignon blanc, merlot/merlot blends), which feature light to fuller bodied wines in descending order. Virtually all the wines are available by the glass, with most categories offering at least one value pour (under $10 a glass). Adventurous whites are plucked from boutiques in California, Italy and South Africa, while independents from Australia (d’Arenberg Shiraz boasts terrific tannins), France (the M. Chapoutier Cote du Rhone Belleruche 2005 is deliciously fruit-forward) and Chile beg investigation in the reds. Pre-packaged wine flights provide a trio of new flavors, but staff are quick to point out that two-ounce pours of any wine are readily available for one-third the per-glass price.
The food, of course, is all too happy to have such willing playmates.
According to a Fleming’s spokeswoman, the company serves only USDA prime beef from Midwestern providers. Steaks are typically wet-aged from between two weeks to a month, are minimally seasoned with kosher salt and coarse black pepper and are seared to completion at 1600 degrees.
A monster bone-in rib-eye emerges with a satisfying straight-off-the-grill char that all but demands a potent pinot noir to balance each smoky bite. NY strip gets a boost from a baptism in butter and some sprinkled herbs; the blackened crust hides a beefy center that explodes with flavor when paired with huskier merlots. For an auto-sauced selection, try the Madeira-spiked beef Flemington, a pastry-wrapped filet surrounded by the thick, semi-sweet wine-mushroom reduction.
All that attention on wine, however, demands a little more follow through. Particularly when it comes to the glassware. One visit revealed a chipped mini-carafe and serrated water glass, while a wine glass chipped in three places along the base raised eyebrows another night.
Memory Lane
The Palm
McLean; 703-917-0200; www.thepalm.com
Average entree: over $31 ($$$$). Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner daily.
In an area well-populated by destination dining spots and special occasion haunts, few places consistently elicit the nostalgia and excitement of a trip to The Palm.
According to Tysons-area general manager Tim Seymour, the world-renowned restaurant continues to attract its share of visiting celebrities, politicos and social luminaries by embracing the hallmarks that have made it famous. Walls remain plastered with campy caricatures of cultural VIPs from across the ages. Each table comes outfitted with an official Palm scratchpad for impromptu note taking. Cigar smoking remains the après-dinner activity de rigueur in the private smoking lounge located off the bar.
Meanwhile, meticulously bedecked staff in white coats and aprons clear and serve with the customer in mind (try not to interrupt conversation, offer to accommodate any special requests to the best of their ability), police tables collectively to ensure a seamless dining experience and openly share their menu knowledge without a hard sell.
Seymour says The Palm serves only USDA prime beef, typically wet-aged by their suppliers for no less than one month. He pointed to the traditional filet mignon as a big winner with the business lunch crowd, but listed the 24-ounce, bone-in rib-eye as perhaps the most popular steak and tapped the 20-ounce, bone-in New York strip as a personal favorite. He noted that families, on the other hand, seem to gravitate toward lobster (average size ranges from three to six pounds, but he says they’ve special ordered up to 17-pound behemoths).
“We’re a place for celebration,” Seymour maintains.
The celebration begins with a bowl of crunchy radishes and jumbo pickles that whet the appetite. An East Coast gigi salad assembles a refreshing mix of diced onions, tomatoes and green beans tossed with puffy jumbo shrimp pieces and crispy bacon (terrific). Bone-in NY strip is formidable, showcasing a smoky-salty crust surrounding a remarkably juicy center. The porterhouse is a bear of a meal, delivering a well-marbled NY strip on one end and a substantial filet mignon on the other side of the juice-reserving bone.
The herb-infused hash browns—heavenly, matchstick-sized spuds featuring a crispy outer shell and flaky center—add gusto to any meal, while garlic-laced spinach sometimes seems too commonplace.
Spoiled Rotten
Capital Grille
McLean; 703-448-3900; www.thecapitalgrille.com
Average entree: over $31 ($$$$). Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner daily.
A traditional sirloin arrives thick, juicy (very little fat, but what remains is magnificent) and dressed to the nines with a splash of savory au jus.
Most days, it’s hard not to mistake the parking circle outside McLean’s Capital Grille for an exotic car show. Maseratis, Lotuses and Ferraris are all there for the ogling. Once inside, though, every guest can expect a ride aboard the all-out service express.
The high-end holding of RARE Hospitality International, Inc. (they also own the more casual Longhorn Steakhouse chain), Capital Grille is all about unbridled attention.
Hostesses cheerily escort guests to their table, making sure the table napkins match your outfit before presenting menus. Dedicated servers introduce themselves by name, expertly discuss steak preparation techniques and cooking temperatures (one strongly recommended I do the Delmonico to at least medium to allow the fat to “melt into the meat”) and oversee the general flow of the meal, while an army of busers clear away empty plates, replenish empty water glasses and tend to the little things that make these high-end meals run so smoothly. Maitre d’s are not above resetting napkins when guests step away from the table, and multiple courtesy visits are the norm as each successive wave of food is delivered to the table. Loyal customers are even bestowed on-site wine lockers to store their favorite steak-friendly vintages.
The illustrious steaks are almost as well-coddled. Capital Grille corporate executive chef Jim Nuetzi says the company utilizes certified Angus beef customized by select Midwest producers. A number of steaks, including the traditional sirloin, porterhouse and signature Kona-crusted sirloin, are dry-aged, in-house for between two to three weeks, and finished off in a 1400 degree broiler. According to Nuetzi, the most popular cuts include the Kona-crusted sirloin, the porcini Delmonico and the filet mignon covered by onions and mushrooms.
A traditional sirloin arrives thick, juicy (very little fat, but what remains is magnificent) and dressed to the nines with a splash of savory au jus. A rib-eye sandwich heaps mouthwatering slices of steak accentuated by strands of beautifully caramelized onions, melted Havarti and a side of tangy horseradish onto a soft roll (grandiose sandwich). The porcini-rubbed Delmonico (fantastic) arrives bathed in a potent mushroom-vinegar blend that soaks through to the heart of the beef. The doubly pleasing filet Oscar summons a savory steak (tender to the core) draped with a crown of jumbo lump crab (a welcome surf and turf offering).
(October 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 1st, 2008
Boffo Beer Bars
By Warren Rojas / Photography by Anastasia Chernyavsky
“Buy you a beer?”
A familiar phrase most often directed at single women, sullen buddies or, sometimes, absolute strangers, a cold brew beats a sweaty handshake for preferred greeting in our book.
Like-minded brethren should get acquainted with the local microbreweries and beer bars featured within—respites where the beer flows like water (carbonated, alcoholic water, mind you). Several of the beer havens have even received national acclaim at the annual Great American Beer Festival (www.beertown.org/events/gabf/index.htm), snagging all manner of medals with their prize-winning libations.
We’ll drink to that.
Vintage 50
Leesburg; 703-777-2169; www.vintage50.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Sunday; Sunday brunch.
A Tasty thai chicken surprise
Launching a new brewery is hard work. Of course, it never hurts to have a seasoned brewer, a carefully groomed clientele and some of the best bar munchies around.
Vintage 50 arrived in Leesburg last winter and has been building a loyal fan base ever since. The Y-shaped establishment features a main lounge to the left with a semi-private dining room to the right. A raised seating area to the rear of the main dining area is perfect for quiet dinners, while an outdoor patio covered with comfy sofas draws crowds on sunny afternoons.
Veteran brew master Bill Madden claims to have approximately 30-40 beer recipes in his brewing arsenal, but is always experimenting with new flavors and techniques. The restaurant offers up to 10 beers on tap, including their core beers—Catoctin Kolsch (mustard yellow with a hoppy kick), Point of Rocks Pale Ale (solid brew), their Extra Special Bitter, Red Ale (full-bodied beer) and a porter, dry stout or schwarzbier—various seasonal offerings and at least one cask-conditioned selection (rotates regularly).
Local favorites include the hefeweizen, Catoctin Kolsch, Point of Rocks Pale Ale and the Wee Heavy Ale (muddy brown with a mildly sweet flavor). Madden also plans to unveil a Keller bier (traditional German recipe) produced in conjunction with another local brewer later this year.
An order of pan-fried pierogies brings potato dumplings smothered with caramelized onions and scallions and a frosty sour cream-and-chive spread. Paninis always hit the spot, including a bold N.Y.-style turkey-bacon-Swiss creation (terrific) and a sun-dried tomato-portobello mushroom pairing. A monstrous Thai salad features cubed chicken, starchy lotus root slices and crunchy cellophane noodles piled atop greens hiding a well of savory peanut sauce (delicious).
Rock Bottom Brewery
Ballston; 703-516-7688; www.rockbottom.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.
Martha’s Light is all right
Butch and Sundance. Yin and yang. Beer and shopping.
That last one may seem like a stretch to some of you. But after umpteen hours of window-shopping for “the perfect—”, a cold beer is often a relationship saver.
Rock Bottom brew master Chris Rafferty says they regularly offer six house beers—the full RB beer catalog includes the house standards, a dozen seasonal drafts (routinely unveiled the third Thursday of every month) and a handful of porter/stout clones—on tap, plus the seasonals and at least one cask-conditioned selection (served warm, sans carbonation; manually pumped out via a beer engine).
At full capacity, Rafferty says they could produce about 3,000 barrels per year, though he says they produced closer to 2,000 in 2006. Rafferty brews anywhere from four to six batches per week in their eight-barrel brew house (1 barrel = 31 gallons = 2 half kegs). He lists Mother Martha’s Kolsch (traditional, easy-drinking light beer) as the biggest mover, with the El Jefe Hefeweizen, Blue Line Pale Ale (bronze bomber with some spicy-fruit undertones) and Radio Towers Red (classic ale) coming in a close second.
“Folks are getting savvy to craft beers … but the majority of people’s tastes remained geared toward lighter beers,” he says of his clientele, adding, “We have a very diverse drinking crowd here.”
Solid nourishment can be had via the brawny bourbonzola burger, a deluxe patty covered with crumbled Gorgonzola (wakes your whole mouth up), batter-fried onion straws and a side of Jim Beam marinade. The brewer’s club shows the softer side of the traditional triple-decker by layering the now familiar ham-turkey-bacon creation between buttery halves of warm ciabbata bread. Or lose yourself in a sea of pasta shells mixed with melted cheddar, shredded chicken and a baked-on Parmesan crust (home-style heaven).
Tuscarora Mill
Leesburg; 703-771-9300; www.tuskies.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch.
Tuscarora Mill
There never appears to be a shortage of exotic beers or familiar faces at Tuscarora Mill, a Leesburg dining landmark that prides itself on its gourmet brews and innovative cuisine.
The multi-story restaurant features a horseshoe-shaped bar with an adjoining lounge for those most interested in liquid refreshment, while traditional diners are accommodated in the dining rooms sprinkled throughout the renovated mill.
General manager Sean Mallone says they offer over 20 craft beers on tap—with new beers rotated semimonthly—and almost another three dozen bottled selections. Some of the most popular sellers include: Allagash White (corn-yellow appearance, creamy texture), Fuller’s London Pride (loaded with hoppy vigor), Lagunitas Censored Ale or just about anything from Pennsylvania’s Victory Brewing Company. Local brands include the house Tuskies’ Ale (flavorful brew with some residual sweetness), which is produced by neighboring Old Dominion Brewing Company (see page 109 for full review) and Olde Richmond Red (full-bodied flavor) produced by the St. George Brewing Company in Hampton.
Meanwhile, servers share their beer acumen freely. During one visit, a bartender paused to scour the current beer roster before handing over the menu to ensure it was up to date, while another waiter offered customers recommendations based on similar tastes (“if you like Miller Lite, try…”) another.
Much like the beer list, the menu seems to hop all over the globe. Beef tenderloin fondue summons tender sirloin tips escorted by a frothy batch of melted Gorgonzola (fabulous). The salmon club brings compact cubes of grilled and smoked salmon interspersed with avocado, lobster mayonnaise and ripe tomatoes. Barbecue empanadas are a golden brown bridge between two cultures, rolling zesty beef into a fried flour shell surrounded by a thrilling chipotle cream sauce, with soothing coleslaw on one side and pico de gallo on the other.
Capitol City Brewing Company
Shirlington; 703-578-3888; www.capcitybrew.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; weekend brunch.
What’s beer without fun? So seems to be the philosophy behind Capitol City Brewing Company, a local microbrewery best known for its cheeky brand names and novel drink recipes.
The first thing you notice upon entering the Shirlington outpost are the gleaming copper tanks propped up behind the main bar. Director of brewing operations Mike McCarthy says they typically feature between five and eight beers on tap, including four standards—Capitol Kolsch (pleasantly bitter, light-style beer), Amber Waves Ale (caramel-colored workhorse; silver medal—2006 GABF), Pale Rider Ale (brassy introduction, spicy finish) and Prohibition Porter are available at every Cap City—plus various seasonal drafts. Notable specialty pours include Fuel (a surprisingly sweet, caffeine-powered porter; gold medal—2006 GABF) and “10” (stellar but potent anniversary trippel-double).
McCarthy says seasonal beers are changed almost weekly, adding that most selections are exhausted within two weeks at the latest. He estimates they produced roughly 2,400 barrels in 2006, or about 400 kegs per month—half of which are shared with one of their D.C. siblings. According to McCarthy, the top sellers include: Capitol Kolsch, Amber Waves and the various hefewiezens. Meanwhile, McCarthy recently rolled out an experimental weiss bier pils—a marriage of pilsner (53 percent) and hefeweizen (47 percent) that is supposed to yield a hoppy brew with fruity undertones—just because he was looking for a challenge.
The menu, however, sticks with more traditional flavors. A complimentary bowl of soft pretzels with snappy horseradish mustard gets your attention immediately. The roadhouse barbecue plate brings meaty bones of spicy-sweet pork ribs (thick, with plenty of flavor and fatty underbelly) flanked by a grilled chicken breast, fries and a corn bread muffin. Soft flour tortillas filled with shredded, Cuban-style pork, grilled onions and peppers, fresh cilantro and a great mojo-mayonnaise shake things up a bit.
Sweetwater Tavern
Multiple NoVa locations; www.greatamericanrestaurants.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open daily for lunch and dinner.
In terms of enduring popularity, the Great American Restaurant group could easily change its name to “Guaranteed Afternoon Revenue” without missing a beat.
The powerhouse dining chain seems to have a restaurant for just about every occasion, including the multiplying Sweetwater Tavern microbreweries (currently in Centreville, Falls Church and Sterling). According to GAR head brewer Nick Funnell, each Sweetwater Tavern always has at least five beers on tap—including a light (Naked River Low Carb Light is slightly bitter, yet still refreshing), a pale ale (Great American Pale Ale delivers rich fruity flavor) and three seasonal drafts (Pale Face Wheat has a bright banana glow and a pinch of spice, while the Giddy Up Stout could give Starbucks a run for its money).
Funnell said at full capacity, each restaurant could produce roughly 3,000 barrels, but notes that due to the variety of beers and the disparate brewing times for each—from two weeks for the ales to eight weeks for others—they average about 1,400 barrels annually. He listed the Great American Restaurants Octoberfest (set for release in September), Ghost Town Pumpkin Ale (poised for a mid-October debut) and High Desert Imperial Stout as big-ticket specialty brews. Meanwhile, their Wits End Ale (silver), Wild West Fest Lager (bronze) and Iron Horse Lager (bronze) were all big winners at the 2006 GABF.
Heavy-duty snackers enjoy fried tortillas filled with chicken, corn and beans, all accompanied by creamy guacamole. A grilled chicken and havarti sandwich plies the snappy duo with fresh basil, vinaigrette and buttery icebox bread. The ale-soaked drunken rib eye summons a terrifically marbled cut of beef—chargrilled steak is melt-in-your-mouth good, with a pleasantly salty-caramelized veneer and big, beefy flavor in every bite—flanked by a fully loaded baked potato and a mound of sauteed mushrooms.
Rustico
Del Ray; 703-224-5051; www.rusticorestaurant.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, Tuesday through Sunday, dinner daily.
Morales’ mosaics are edible art
Au revoir, sommeliers?
Wine stewards may not yet be cowering. But if other chefs embrace beer-based cooking as passionately as Rustico’s Frank Morales, the noble grapes may one day have to yield to fermented grains.
The barley-and-hops branch of the local Neighborhood Restaurant Group collective, Rustico features about 30 draft beers, 300 bottles and at least one cask ale selection at any given time. “We’re definitely building a niche for ourselves,” general manager Chris Schaller claims, touting their epic beer selection as “the driving force—the reputation—of the place.”
While Schaller says many locals remain devoted to mainstream beers like Pabst Blue Ribbon or Miller Lite, the restaurant has plenty to whet your whistle. Noteworthy selections include: Harviestoun Bitter & Twisted (golden hue, easy drinking flavor), Gouden Carolus D’or (muddy complexion, cinnamony character) and Heavy Seas Small Craft Warning (rich red brew with plenty of character).
Morales said he thoroughly enjoyed his crash course in beer upon arriving at the restaurant from D.C.’s Zola. He noted that staff is taught to inquire about patrons’ beer tastes and then offer a traditional recommendation as well as a “bold” suggestion. “We’re trying to engage guests and explore,” he said.
That sense of exploration has helped fuel the success of Morales’ signature mosaic trios, themed dining medleys (all under $20) that can be upgraded with corresponding beer pairings (all under $10). Yeasty calzones come filled with ricotta and marjoram (ultra cheesy), fennel-spiked lamb sausage (robust flavor) and salmon with cream cheese and chives (grand). A delightful sliders combo rolls out bacon-wrapped veal (tres juicy), lamb meatloaf (melts in your mouth) and a playful shrimp burger (good).
Morales is already plotting eight-course mosaic tasting menus—featuring trios of spontaneous seasonal creations—to be served at the restaurant’s kitchen-front counter. “That’s the fun we’ll have there,” he pledges.
Old Dominion Brewing Company
Ashburn; 703-724-9100; www.olddominion.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Though the business recently changed hands, staff at the Old Dominion Brewpub remain confident their most successful craft beers will survive the current corporate shake-up.
An exurban beer mecca nestled firmly in the Verizon-AOL corridor, Old Dominion was absorbed earlier this spring by Anheuser-Busch and Fordham Brewing Company to become part of their joint Coastal Brewing Company venture. Management remains tight-lipped about the future of the Old Dominion beer catalog. But brewpub personnel seemed pretty sure many of their signature brews will still be around once the re-organizational dust settles.
Till then, patrons can sample the homemade beers at the brewpub’s giant, horseshoe-shaped bar or in the laid-back main dining room. The brewpub offers circa two dozen homemade lagers, ales and specialty brews available as 12-ounce drafts, 16-ounce “true pints” or in sampler flights. Noteworthy selections include: Millennium Ale (actually a fabulously aggressive barley wine; released each spring), Dominion Porter (shoe leather-brown with hints of sweet chocolate), Hard Times Lager (clean, refreshing flavor that lends itself to endurance drinking; brewed for the eponymous local chili parlors) and the Dominion Ale (slightly hoppy but mostly smooth).
Naturally, the diverse beers complement many of the featured foodstuffs.
The meatacular Dominion Lager chili combines ground beef seasoned to just below scalding—heat doesn’t stop till a few minutes after you drop the spoon—with chopped onions and shredded cheddar (a scoop of sour cream would be most beneficial in this case). Irish nachos summon thick-cut spuds caked with melted cheese, giant bits of bacon and diced scallions; add any leftover chili (if you dare). A respectable chicken fajita cheese steak is chock full of savory chicken, sliced peppers, onions and cheese (tasty), although the turkey-cheddar melt on grilled, buttered sourdough gets the nod thanks to a bonus swab of chutney (sweet, but far too scant).
(September 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 1st, 2008
Grub You’ll Love While Baking in the Sun
By Warren Rojas / Photography by Hana Jung
There was a time when slipping away to the Eastern Shore for a weekend felt like roughing it.
No gelato, no carpaccio, no truffled potatoes. Not a single luxury.
Today, you’re as likely to encounter veal cheeks and prized European vintages at the burgeoning crop of fine-dining establishments as you are to find caramel-covered popcorn and corn dogs along the boardwalk. We bounced between Dewey, Rehoboth and Ocean City to find the best seaside dining around, targeting everything from fine dining (Take Your Time) to family-friendly (Bring the Kids) to snacks (Load Up) to nocturnal hotspots (Get Down).
Granted, we skipped over the blink-and-you’ll-miss-them tracts of Bethany and Fenwick Island. But there’s always next year …
bring the kids
Hooper’s Crab House
Ocean City, Md.
410-213-1771; www.hooperscrabhouse.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
A true seafood feast
Those who can’t fathom visiting the beach without winding up elbow- deep in crab shells most likely already know about Hooper’s. Anyone who doesn’t would literally have to have their head in the sand.
The massive waterfront establishment sits just outside Ocean City proper—luring vacationing families and gangs of beachgoers with the promise of seating options aplenty and a seemingly inexhaustible supply of marvelous seafood.
The main attraction remains the all-you-can-eat seafood feast ($26), which includes Old Bay-covered Maryland blue crabs (steady supply of number 2’s typically pack enough meat to make the pickin’ worthwhile); homemade fried chicken (crispy and delicious); barbecue baby back ribs (tangy); fried clam strips (chewy fun); steamed corn (ready to be shucked, salted and gnawed off the cob); and more, delivered by the trayful. Other dining options include an all-you-can-eat crab-and-corn feast ($21) available at a satellite, waterfront pagoda, along with a slew of familiar fried/broiled/baked seafood standards. Carryout crabs (medium through jumbo, based on availability) are also offered by the dozen, half-bushel or bushel.
Meanwhile, repeat visitors should consider investing in the 22-ounce souvenir cup, which costs $4.75 up front, but entitles guests to free soda/tea refills ad infinitum and $1.75 draft beer refills.
get down
Fager’s Island
Ocean City, Md.
410-524-5500; www.fagers.com/restaurant
Average entree: over $31 ($$$$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily; Sunday brunch.
An adult playground with fully-stocked bars around every corner, Fager’s Island keeps clients guessing by indulging crowds with everything from classical music to the latest European dance beats.
The waterfront retreat houses two main stages—one that typically features a house or visiting DJ, while the other hosts a rotating group of interchangeable cover bands—a wraparound patio with secluded groves and a common area featuring cozy tables illuminated by built-in fire pits. The serene exterior areas are ideal perches for taking in the Sunday jazz brunch, but all the real action takes place indoors, after dark.
Each evening at dusk, the thunderous roar of the “1812 Overture” blasts away another day. A weekly deck party featuring discounted drinks and bar snacks and free admission for the ladies kicks off at 5 p.m. on Monday evenings. Weekend nights, the indoor club is swarmed by golden-tressed sirens summoning rhythmically challenged frat boys to certain death on the dance floor while ruddy-faced baby boomers troll for their next ex-wife. DJs feed the crowd a steady diet of hip-hop and Top 40 hits, while random streams of foam/ticker tape rain down on the gyrating masses all night long.
load up
Louie’s Pizza
Rehoboth Beach, Del.
302-227-6002; www.homeofthegrinder.com
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.
Yes, yes. It’s called Louie’s Pizza. But while the well-constructed pies get top billing, it’s the unheralded sandwiches that steal the show.
A boardwalk fixture for over three decades, there’s no denying that Louie’s remains one of the go-to spots for superior pizza. The foldable N.Y.-style slices emerge from the oven—they go though once as part of the initial pie-making process and receive a return bronzing when you order—with blissfully smoky, burnt edges, spicy pepperoni, spongy mushroom bits and what seems like miles of bubbling mozzarella, each for under $2 apiece.
The handheld hits continue with over two dozen sandwiches, including traditional grill selections (burgers, cheese steaks), deli-style subs and oven-toasted grinders.
A formidable double steak and cheese heaps 12 ounces of sizzling steak onto a sub roll, then tops everything off with ripe tomato slices and a blanket of melted American cheese. Likewise, the grinder special binds traditional ham, peppery cappicola and zesty salami with peppers, onions, tomato and provolone, and baptizes them all in oil (fantastic).
Just remember to bring plenty of cash. Because debit/credit card-toting customers are the only ones who leave this place hungry.
get down
Purple Parrot Grill
Rehoboth Beach, Del.
302-226-1139
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open daily for lunch, dinner and late-night dining.
Mumbo jumbo burger
A colorful stop just up from the Rehoboth boardwalk, the Purple Parrot attracts fun-loving types from all walks of life with exotic cocktails, tempting dishes and get-out-of-your-seat entertainment.
The island-themed destination (shredded coconut, Caribbean-style jerk seasoning and tangy mojo inhabit many dishes) stays busy feeding sand-covered beachgoers throughout the day, but really comes to life on weekend nights. Armchair American Idols serenade/assail the streets of Rehoboth during the Friday and Saturday night karaoke sessions, while professionals—female impersonators performing under the guise of “Miss Peaches and the Birdcage Bad Girls”—keep the crowd moving on Sunday nights.
Late-night diners can recharge with meaty mojo ribs, featuring tender pork brushed with a tasty citrus barbecue glaze, or a whopping tuna wrap featuring an Old Bay-dusted tortilla packed with creamy albacore-laden goodness. Or call it a night with the daunting mumbo jumbo, a full pound burger that’s cooked to order and piled high with all your favorite toppings. Off-season, staff slash the price on this beef behemoth to just $6 and let locals go wild at a fixings bar boasting two types of cheese, fresh lettuce, sauteed mushrooms, curly bacon strips and fried onions.
take your time
Dish!
Rehoboth Beach, Del.
302-226-2112; www.dishrehoboth.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for dinner daily.
Although the décor remains firmly rooted in the past, the cuisine at Dish! is deliciously cutting edge.
This subterranean retreat is splashed with vibrant primary colors and appointed with total kitsch. An unsolved Rubik’s Cube beckons from the main bookshelf, while lava lamps bubble brightly in every window.
The menu is a patchwork of childhood favorites and imagination, combining well-loved standards (truffle oil is a favored accent here) with rotating specials and even a daily cheesecake creation.
An already irresistible calamari littered with cilantro curls becomes even more enticing after a dip in spicy crushed peanuts. Crispy roast chicken comes surrounded by a lake of savory stock, a tower of scalloped potatoes and a forest of broccoli, artichokes and roasted red peppers. One TV-style dinner tray (gimmicky, but fun) houses two pork chops bathed in a smart pineapple-raisin relish, a cafeteria-style scoop of cheddary mac and cheese, a solo deviled egg and sauteed broccoli (a square meal, turned totally hip). Dessert’s a no-brainer, particularly after you spot the unbelievably rich house ice cream sandwich—featuring jumbo rice crispy rounds hugging a mountain of vanilla ice cream absolutely drenched in gooey chocolate sauce and rainbow sprinkles.
Following one meal, a first-time guest poked his head into the kitchen to congratulate executive chef Riche Griffin for the fabulous experience.
“Great food. I’ll be back,” he announced. So will we.
take your time
Galaxy 66 Bar and Grille
Ocean City, Md.
410-723-6762; www.galaxy66barandgrille.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Shrimp and sausage risotto
The beach is clearly the place to be for dedicated sun worshippers. But when it comes to stargazing, few places can trump the celestial clout exercised by Galaxy 66.
This swanky, three-story establishment boasts an expansive main dining room decorated with candy-like sunbursts, spacey light fixtures and a constellation of mosaic tile stars. Patrons who prefer their entertainment au naturel can take the spiral stairs up to the rooftop Skye bar, an open-air escape for those who take their cocktails with a panoramic view.
Back inside, the kitchen crew keeps guests in orbit with an evolving roster of contemporary American cuisine.
The monstrous tenderloin sandwich (a definite knife-and-forker) shoehorns jumbo briquettes of chewy beef, caramelized onions and shaved brie into a toasted baguette, all flanked by hoop-sized onion rings (groovy). A luxuriant risotto arrives outfitted with peppers, onions, shaved sausage and a trio of piquant shrimp. The deceptively labeled lobster club delivers a clever seafood salad bearing fluffed lobster tossed with micro greens, crumbled Gorgonzola and sliced green apples. Duck pulls double duty—as a succulent breast and crispy confit leg—drawing plenty of support from a ring of citrus-habanero sauce (honey sweet, rather than hot), an endive and goat cheese salad (solid) and a nest of spaghetti squash.
load up
Dumser’s Dairyland
Ocean City, Md.
Multiple locations; www.beach-net.com/dumsers
Average entree: under $12 ($). Check locations for times.
Cooling off after a long day at the beach is a snap at Dumser’s, a longstanding cadre of traditional ice cream parlors known for their frosty, skyward-reaching treats.
The local dairy baron offers varying degrees of snack assistance throughout Ocean City, from several take-away ice cream kiosks sprinkled along the boardwalk to a casual family restaurant (serving breakfast, lunch and dinner) on 123rd Street.
Although different in size, each Dumser’s features a rainbow of homemade ice creams presented just about any way you like—including assorted sundaes (from one-scoop numbers to multi-layered “super” sundaes), milkshakes, floats, ice cream sodas, traditional soft serve and dipped cones.
Hardcore sundae fans can take a crack at the Dairyland special, a build-your-own monolith comprised of a split banana, six scoops of ice cream (pick from over a dozen homemade flavors ranging from plain vanilla to combos like coconut-chocolate chip) and six bonus toppings (chopped almonds, rainbow sprinkles, whipped cream and fresh cherries come standard). Or turn breakfast on its head by ordering up a homemade waffle crowned with a fruity blast of black raspberry ice cream or tart orange sherbet.
get down
The Starboard
Dewey Beach, Del.
302-227-4600; www.thestarboard.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
Food, schmood.
Sometimes, all you want while decompressing at the shore is a cool, refreshing drink. And maybe 200 of your closest friends standing by to cover the next round. If so, make your way to the infamous Starboard, a Dewey institution one companion aptly characterized as “spring break for 30-year-olds.”
The mostly open-air club is a magnet for auto-pickled partygoers looking to rock out to the roving stable of mixed musical acts (rock/reggae/acoustic) that make meaningful conversations just about impossible most nights. With chitchat off the table, overzealous patrons often throw caution to the wind, frantically indulge in test tubes full of mystery booze with friends or fearlessly make time with strangers only to later discover that they live/work in the same apartment complex/office building as said conquest back home.
And social lubricants are never far away—beginning with the make-your-own bloody Mary bar unveiled at breakfast, the fruity-but-deadly mixed drinks doled out by staff during happy hour or the tempting half-bottles of wine that can quickly turn a quiet dinner into a night-long adventure.
Meanwhile, the bar prides itself on never levying a cover charge—ever. But it sure helps to have one of the VIP passes distributed to Dewey regulars.
take your time
David Lynch’s Venus on the Half Shell
Dewey Beach, Del.
302-227-9292; www.deweybeachlife.com
Average entree: over $31 ($$$$). Open for dinner daily.
Seared ahi tuna
On a clear night, the moon seems to hang just out of reach out of those fortunate enough to secure one of the outside tables at the breezy Venus on the Half Shell. Luckily, everyone else can enjoy the iridescent twinkle of the ruby stars dangling within.
The gorgeous waterfront property boasts four distinct seating areas: a bustling bar/lounge level, a relaxed lower dining room, a sandy bay front plot and a cozy two-person refuge overlooking the water. The style is elegant—it has a definitively Far Eastern feel (Buddhist statues, pillow-backed bench seating, ornate tile mirrors)—yet still laid back enough for those who choose to dine in T-shirts and flip flops.
The contemporary American menu features entrees ranging from local seafood to choice cuts of beef, pork or lamb, plus select daily “features.”
Chilled lobster meat presides over a scattering of Bibb lettuce dotted with a lemony aioli in one simple but satisfying starter. Pepper-crusted tuna wedges share time with a festive Asian slaw in another. Muscular tiger prawns lord over a creamy risotto inundated with tender lobster nuggets and leafy bok choy. Elsewhere, meaty jumbo lump crab cakes come dressed with Cajun tartar sauce and a sweet corn relish (terrific).
bring the kids
Grotto Pizza
Multiple Delaware locations
www.grottopizza.com
Average entree: under $12 ($). Check locations for times.
Part of the Rehoboth grab-and-go infrastructure for going on five decades, the now ubiquitous Grotto Pizza has planted family-friendly outposts all over Dewey, Bethany and Lewes and has even branched out into Pennsylvania. And as its fame has grown, so has the menu.
This one-time pizza joint now features a host of Italian favorites, from Sicilian-style pizza—hefty squares come covered in slivered onions, shaved mozzarella and a tangy marinara (the crust could be a little crunchier)—and traditional pastas, to a new line of designer gelatos. Our vote, however, goes to the bulging homemade strombolis stuffed with all manner of savory fillings.
The eponymous Grotto boli produces a puffy, oven-baked shell filled with mountains of crumbled ground beef and streams of molten cheese (a real crowd pleaser), all flanked by a side of marinara. A traditional stromboli packs an even heartier punch, bombarding the senses with bites of pepperoni, cappicola, salami and ham, all swimming in more melted cheese.
get down
Seacrets Bar & Grill
Ocean City, Md.
410-524-4900; www.seacrets.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.
Seacrets Bar & Grill
A cut above most ordinary nightclubs, Seacrets provides a break from reality, offering the illusion of a Caribbean getaway to those who can only afford an Ocean City escape.
A sprawling entertainment labyrinth embedded with over a dozen bars, several sit-down dining areas, a dedicated dance club, a half-dozen event stages and a beautiful outdoor tiki setup boasting sunken cocktail tables and floating rafts, Seacrets aims to transport patrons to a mythical refuge cheekily billed as “Jamaica, U.S.A.”
The average crowd is a mix of young and old, tourists and locals, casual drinkers and off-duty hospitality workers looking to make the most of their precious free time.
Discount drink specials—including $2 drafts, $3 bottles and $4 imports/specialty drinks—run from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily. Bar staff say the most popular house drinks include the big bamboo, a fairly smooth but clearly boozy rum punch packed with enough Malibu to make Captain Jack Sparrow stagger, and the pain in de ass, the irreverent offspring of a traditional rum runner and a pina colada (refreshingly fruity but still non-confrontational).
But be warned. Because unlike Vegas, what happens at Seacrets is, in fact, preserved for posterity (internal cameras stream images from all over the club directly to the Internet).
take your time
Nage
Rehoboth Beach, Del.
302-226-2037; www.nage.bz
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Porcini veal chop
Talk about reverse-commuting. While the rest of us risk the perils of the Bay Bridge to visit Rehoboth’s marvelous Nage, founder Kevin Reading is often in town tending to the D.C. sibling—attached to the Courtyard Marriott in Scott Circle—he launched in 2006.
The flagship Nage has all the trappings of a chic metropolitan bistro: a handful of sought-after tables, lots of earth tones and natural light to soothe the senses and a full complement of snappy libations (watermelon-infused sauvignon blanc sangria) to keep the conversation flowing.
The seasonal menu features a number of signature dishes, rotating specials (select meats are often brought in from the old-school butcher shop next door) and a buffet of prix fixe ($35 for three courses) options.
An applewood smoked quail arrives splayed across a bed of goat cheese grits accented with mushrooms, pine nuts and a ring of fresh sorrel pesto (supporting cast almost steals the show). The so-called knuckle sandwich is a knockout, delivering tender chunks of lobster bundled with tarragon aioli and shredded lettuce, all pressed between a toasted croissant. Top honors, though, go to a roast veal chop escorted by a “truffled mac and cheese” that reveals orecchiette stacked with mushrooms, peas and asparagus (simply amazing).
load up
J.T. Scraps Salad Factory
Dewey Beach. Del.
302-226-8561
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
Call it beach fatigue: that pivotal moment at which your now bulging waistline declares that it’s had enough of Old Bay-dusted this and second helpings of deep-fried that. Luckily, the prescient folks at J.T. Scraps have a low-cal cure designed to keep you trim enough to enjoy the rest of the summer.
A health-conscious eatery tucked away on the oceanside of the main Dewey strip, Scraps offers a host of specialty salads—many named after other local bars and eateries—with lots of interchangeable extras (seasonal greens, fat-free dressings and mixed proteins). Additional options include nearly a dozen assorted sandwich wraps, homemade soups (turkey chili is standard, but look for daily specials like Maryland crab) and a handful of fruit smoothies.
The Lighthouse shrimp salad combines mixed greens with steamed shrimp, hard-boiled eggs and bowtie pasta (a truly refreshing mix), while the Starboard intermingles chopped romaine with crumbled bacon, strips of sliced provolone and potato-filled pierogies (outstanding).
Not to mention that during lunch, Scraps is often packed with more sun-tanned beauties—per capita—than any bar in Dewey, Rehoboth or Ocean City.
bring the kids
Bayside Skillet
Ocean City, Md.
410-524-7950; www.baysideskillet.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Seasonal fruit bowl
Fresh fruit and fancy eggs vie for your undivided attention at Bayside Skillet, an eye-catching eatery awash in bright colors and loads of sunlight.
The practically all-pink cottage (think hot pink trim, hanging baskets filled with pastel-colored flowers and lacy umbrellas) provides casual dining in the air-conditioned main area or an al fresco experience on the spacious patio (where the radio remains trained to classic 60s doo-wop, soul and R&B hits).
Patrons can choose from scores of omelets (from plain Swiss cheese to a signature strawberry-cream cheese-brown sugar blintz), over a dozen sweet or savory crepe combinations or a handful of specialty frittatas and skillet-fried potato creations.
An ample seafood frittata summons a cushion of eggs blanketed with shredded crab, seasoned shrimp and tender scallops bathed in tangy marinara and melted mozzarella (terrific). Homemade crepes already overflowing with shredded spinach and crumbled bacon turn irresistible with a dab of hollandaise. Starch fiends need look no further than the potatoes s.o.b. (south of the border)—revealing tasty home fries buried beneath a mountain of chili, cheese, onions, peppers, bacon, mushrooms and sour cream.
Meanwhile, citrus junkies can fill up on fresh squeezed orange or grapefruit juice or homemade lemonade.
load up
Liquid Assets
Ocean City. Md.
410-524-7037; www.ocliquidassets.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.
Say cheese
Vacationing gastronauts can scratch any lingering gourmet itch at Liquid Assets, a package store/bistro abounding with epicurean delights.
The expansive wine shop, which boasts over 1,600 bottles in its collection, features a roomy central bar as well as an adjoining, informal dining room. The kitchen crew seems enamored with celebrating regional, seasonal cuisine, as indicated by the dizzying array of artisanal cheeses procured from a gourmet shop in nearby Bethany Beach, while breads are purchased from a local baker.
Build-your-own cheese samplers (three for $13, five for $18 or $5 each per 2-ounce serving) lead to flights of fancy, given the dozens of custom choices—everything from aging Goudas to herb-infused goat’s milk blends—available at any given time.
Staff regularly rotate different cheeses into the bistro’s “grilled cheese deluxe” slot, combining individual cheeses, fresh vegetables, gourmet spreads and specialty breads into singularly astounding creations. Similarly, a lean but still beefy house burger garnished with sweet onion relish (piquant topper teases the palate) is constantly updated with different cheeses and homemade breads. Elsewhere, paprika-rubbed chicken wings enrobe the tender bird in a spicy crust that conveys earthy warmth rather than a saucy scald.
bring the kids
La Hacienda
Ocean City, Md.
410-524-8080; www.oclahacienda.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for dinner daily.
Some may find it odd to seek out a Mexican place while at the beach. Everyone else should thank said skeptics for leaving more splendiferous Tex-Mex seafood for the rest of us.
La Hacienda maximizes its proximity to the sea by integrating all manner of marine life into their cuisine. Their talents are so well-known, in fact, one server warns that wait times often exceed an hour and a half, in season.
The flood of familiar sights (big slushy margaritas and import beers seem to dot every table) and scents (trays of sizzling, char-grilled steak continuously stream out of the kitchen) may seem to portend another generic meal. That is, until you sink your teeth into one of the creative seafood options.
The Neptune burrito—“the single, best thing on the menu,” according to one waitress—packs backfin crab meat, mouthwatering scallops, sauteed shrimp, white American, yellow American and cream cheese into a flour tortilla. The massive creation is then smothered in baked-on beans, and surrounded by refried beans and rice (a monster of a meal). Or look for daily specials like the seared ahi tuna fajitas, uniting a lemony tuna steak (generous filet, lightly seared) with grilled vegetables and warm tortillas.
(August 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 1st, 2008
By Warren Rojas / Photography by Anastasia Chernyavsky
Dining Tip #42: A good meal need not require a Cayman Islands wire transfer.
Sure, it’s occasionally fun to splurge for a multicourse extravaganza or to snag a private audience with the latest “it” chef. But, like most people, our everyday dining habits tend to steer us toward familiar sit-down spots that dazzle us for not too much dinero.
In the pages that follow you’ll find 50 great bargain dishes—all under $15 and all consistently satisfying—many of which feature exotic ingredients, picture-perfect presentations and tantalizing flavors.
So break out the double sawbucks. Because you’ve got some serious eating to do.
Tara Thai
Multiple NoVa locations
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
goong phu-ket (Tara Thai)
Celebrate the best from above and below with a portion of goong phu-ket—an air-sea marriage of jumbo shrimp, shredded jumbo lump crab, crumbled chicken and mixed peppers, all soaked through in a tangy, Thai barbecue sauce.
Sette Bello
Clarendon; 703-351-1004; www.settebellorestaurant.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.
For a dinner so sweet, dessert becomes unnecessary, sample the mezzelune—a bowlful of bulbous, half-moon ravioli filled with creamy pumpkin and amaretti (almond-paste cookies), all swimming in a perfumed cream sauce punctuated by minty-fresh sage.
Okra’s Louisiana Bistro
Manassas; 703-330-2729; www.okras.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
The superbly spicy red beans and rice—bearing cubes of fiery andouille sausage mixed with rice, beans, scallions and a searing Cajun sauce, all crowned with a bonus grilled sausage link—should sate any ragin’ Cajuns until their next trip home.
Anita’s
Multiple NoVa locations; www.anitascorp.com
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
For a New Mexican-style pick-me-up, rustle up a plate of carne adovada ($9.95)—red chile-soaked pork medallions flanked by gooey refried beans covered in melted cheese, Spanish rice and four flour tortillas.
Duangrat’s
Falls Church; 703-820-5775; www.duangrats.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
A work of edible art, the golden quail platter summons a trio of delicately seasoned game birds (dusted with white pepper) formed into a pyramid of crackling skin and perfumed meat, all surrounded by a ring of sweet soy jelly.
Sakura Japanese Steakhouse
Multiple NoVa locations; www.sakurasteakhouse.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
A raw fish buffet for one, the tuna five ways platter ($12.95) serves up the sushi staple in various fashions—including traditional raw, grilled, fatty, spicy and the prized albacore—that are alternately chewy, smoky, briny, zesty and silky.
Espresso Cafe and Restaurant
Manassas; 703-361-8244; www.portuguesegrill.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
This neighborhood charmer remains a well-guarded secret among the Portuguese. So don’t tell them we breathed a word about the amazing bacalhau a braz ($13.75)—grilled codfish folded into scrambled eggs decorated with caramelized onions, black olives and tomato wedges—lest they lock us out.
Dolce Vita
Fairfax; 703-385-1530; www.dolcevitafairfax.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, Monday through Saturday, dinner daily.
Cristoforo colombo pie (Dolce Vita)
If all pizza tastes the same to you, broaden your horizons with the trailblazing Cristoforo Colombo pie—a symphony of lean turkey, razor-thin potato slices and blue-green bubbles of melted Gorgonzola (the fragrant cheese is absolutely breathtaking).
Charlie Chiang’s
Multiple NoVa locations; www.charliechiangs.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Though Americanized Chinese often lacks oomph, the crispy hot beef ($12.95) delivers zesty strands of shredded beef, brushed with a tangy sweet-and-sour sauce and bolstered by minced chili pods, julienned peppers and onions.
Extra Virgin
Shirlington; 703-998-8474; www.extravirginva.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch.
A popular destination for traditional Italian with modern flourishes, the kitchen scores again with its orecchiette “cima di mola”—buttressing the tiny, ear-shaped noodles with sultry broccoli rabe, ground Italian sausage and shaved strings of creamy ricotta.
Hama Sushi
Herndon; 703-713-0088; www.hama-sushi.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
When another order of regular sushi just won’t do, consider the always rousing spicy tuna don ($14)—a hot-cold combination platter featuring a zesty mound of tuna tartare, drifts of steamed sushi rice, a nest of chilled noodles and tangy seaweed salad.
Villa Bella
Burke; 703-239-3580
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
For those constantly torn between ordering sandwiches or pizza, behold the schiacciata salsiccia ($10.99)—a double-decker pie stuffed with ground sausage, tangy marinara, molten mozzarella, diced peppers and onions, and double the crust for easy handling.
Gamasot
Springfield; 703-256-0780; www.gamasotrestaurant.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
The warming young yang sul leung tang reveals a milky-white, bone marrow broth stocked with alternately lean and fatty slices of beef, spring onions, mushrooms, noodles and dates, along with a buffet of traditional Korean side dishes (banchan) including blood sausage and assorted pickled vegetables.
Foxfire Grill
Alexandria; 703-914-9280; www.foxfire-grill.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
“Not your usual” mac-n-cheese (Foxfire Grill)
This neighborhood gem is home to the aptly titled “not your usual” mac-n-cheese—a lip-smacking serving of tri-color rotini coated in a signature Asiago-white cheddar-fontina-Parmesan cheese blend, which is then augmented with pulverized “bacon crumbs,” plus whole pieces of smoky bacon. A side salad offers some much-needed roughage.
Celebrity Delly
Falls Church; 703-573-9002; www.thecelebritydely.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; breakfast and lunch Sunday.
Indecisive salad lovers, rejoice! The Linden ($10.99) summons healthy scoops of fresh tuna (delicious), minced chicken (filling) and homemade pasta salad (sprinkled with grated cheese and chopped vegetables), accompanied by a mound of understated coleslaw (more cabbage than mayonnaise) and four, thick-as-can-be toast slices.
Hard Times Cafe
Multiple NoVa locations; www.hardtimes.com
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.
Chili lovers prone to crumbling crackers into their brew will appreciate the salty snap of the Frito chili pie ($7.89), heaping your choice of chili (color mine Terlingua red), diced tomatoes, shredded cheddar and a dapper dab of cool sour cream atop a nest of the familiar baked corn curls.
Rosemary’s Thyme Bistro
Clifton; 703-502-1084; www.rosemarysthyme.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily; brunch on weekends.
For folded flatbread with a kick, tear into the sujuk and cheese pide—a baked marvel layered with a mozzarella-provolone-feta blend and zesty Turkish sausage.
Lighthouse Tofu and BBQ
Annandale; 703-333-3436
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Lighthouse Tofu and BBQ
Basic mushroom tofu soup submerges tender mushrooms, bean sprouts and soft-boiled tofu nuggets in an ocean of secret spices (fills the belly with a welcoming heat). Served with all the traditional banchan.
Aburi Gardens
Woodbridge; 703-490-1100
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
A Ghanaian staple, waakye and shitto offers rice mixed with black-eyed peas, herb-infused goat (amongst other choices) and a stinging ground seafood paste. A hail of cassava crumbs adds crunch.
Hong Kong Palace
Falls Church; 703-532-0940
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Although Szechuan gems like cold jellyfish and fried bullfrog abound, the sinus-clearing flounder and bean curd stew—stocked with silky bean curd blocks and minced peppers—keeps calling us back.
Silk Road
Leesburg; 571-333-4930/4931
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$).Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Flavor complements form in the eye-catching karahi lunch plate, interweaving char-grilled lamb with fried eggs and a bounty of sauteed onions, tomatoes, red/green/yellow peppers and jalapenos.
Jaipur
Fairfax; 703-766-1111; www.jaipurcuisine.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Jaipur
Though curry is always nice, cinnamon gets the nod in the murg-e-maharaja, pairing dry-rubbed chicken with a medley of gorgeous peppers, all swimming in a spicy-sweet sauce.
Fire Works Pizza
Leesburg; 703-779-8400; www.fireworkspizza.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$).Open for lunch and dinner daily.
This budding pizzeria breathes new life into old world flavors with its Barcelona pie, a 10-inch stunner topped with coins of thinly sliced chorizo, chewy mahon cheese, a lively diced olive spread and a bouquet of tomatoes and peppers.
Coyote Grille & Cantina
Fairfax; 703-591-0006; www.coyotegrille.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch.
Surf and turf heads south of the border in a terrific steak and shrimp tostada—a flavorful medley of marinated steak, zesty shrimp, seasoned rice, tomatoes, black beans and onions, smothered beneath a cheese-covered tortilla, with plenty of guacamole and sour cream to boot.
Il Radicchio
Clarendon; 703-276-2627
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for lunch, Monday through Saturday, dinner daily.
A true pasta lover’s paradise, the stage is always set with all-you-can-eat spaghetti ($6.50). For an encore-worthy performance, bask in the glory of the ragu di agnello ($4.50 per 8-ounce serving)—a sumptuous blend of lamb, rosemary, pancetta and white wine.
Cafe Asia
Rosslyn; 703-741-0870; www.cafeasia.com
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.
Halt hunger with a stop light roll ($5.50)—spicy green and red roe split by a bright yellow quail egg (chilled yolk provides an unexpected jolt)—and a vegetable-laden portion (brimming with bean sprouts, broccoli and baby corn) of Singapore-style fried rice ($8).
Fish Market
Old Town Alexandria; 703-836-5676; www.fishmarketoldtown.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.
Crested treasure chest (Fish Market)
The mysterious crested treasure chest reveals a triple threat of homemade shrimp salad (chock-full of jumbo shrimp and chopped celery) shoveled into a hollowed out cantaloupe—or pineapple, but the crisp melon is better—and surrounded by carefully arranged cantaloupe spears protruding from a bed of mixed greens.
Taqueria Poblano
Multiple NoVa locations; www.taqueriapoblano.com
Average entree: under $12 ($). Check locations for times.
For a killer build-your-own seafood combo, pair a Baja fish taco ($3.95)—beer-battered mahi mahi surrounded by pico de gallo and a savory slaw—with a spicetacular shrimp taco ($4.95)—filled with zesty grilled shrimp, shredded cheese, red onions and a squiggle of homemade avocado dressing.
Union Street
Old Town Alexandria; 703-548-1785; www.usphalexandria.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
A steaming bowl of East Coast chowda ($13.95) is no mere soup-and-sandwich sideshow attraction. The potent stew is brimming with so many oysters, bay scallops, chunks of select fish (typically cod), potatoes, red onions, celery and corn, staff members insist, “it’s a meal.” Amen to that.
Zaaza
Sterling; 703-404-5950
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for dinner and late-night dining daily.
Although primarily an exurban nightclub, Zaaza manages to put together an array of surprisingly tasty crepes. The lemongrass shrimp variety ($8.50) summons a not-at-all-insignificant amount of savory shrimp, onions and mushrooms folded into a sweet flour crepe drizzled with a tangy Thai-style lemongrass sauce.
Eat Bar
Ballston; 703-778-9951; www.tallularestaurant.com/barandlounge.htm
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
The gourmet hot dog plate produces a meaty maverick that puts standard ballpark snacks to shame. Succulent frank is a good two inches around with slightly blistered skin, and is accompanied by homemade ketchup and mustard (scorching) and twice-cooked fries (fantastic).
Shamshiry
Vienna; 703-448-8883; www.shamshiry.com
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
The chelo kabob kubideh with egg ($8.74) is a multisensory affair bolstered by juicy strips of char-grilled ground beef, a brassy shingle of burnt rice (provides a pleasing crunch) and the searing bliss of a homemade green chili sauce.
Paolo’s Ristorante
Reston; 703-318-8920; www.paolosristorante.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
If your diet could use more fiber but you can’t bear to cede any protein, the espresso-rubbed steak salad ($14.95) tosses grilled-to-order flank steak with crumbled goat cheese, mixed greens, crispy carrot curls, green beans and crunchy new potatoes.
La Granja de Oro
Falls Church; 703-534-5511; www.granjadeoro.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
A favorite of South American stir-fry fans, lomo saltado ($14.95) mixes sliced tenderloin, ripe tomatoes, fried potatoes and red onions into a savory mass flanked by white rice. Sprinkle on the house green chili sauce (divine) for an added boost.
Clyde’s
Multiple NoVa locations; www.clydes.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily; Sunday brunch.
A go-to item prepared in various iterations (sometimes as a flaky napoleon, others as a wood-fired pizza), wild mushrooms work best here when intermingled with gnocchi ($14.95)—arranging a forest of seasonal funghi, asparagus and spinach amidst tender potato dumplings.
Rangoli
South Riding; 703-957-4900; www.rangolirestaurant.us
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
The signature entrees and traditional Tandoori dishes are impressive. But we can’t get enough of beans foogath ($9.95)—a lunch buffet star interweaving steamed green beans, firm yellow lentils, piquant chili pods and shredded coconut.
Red Rocks Cafe & Tequila Bar
Centreville; 703-815-6900
Open for lunch, dinner and late night dining daily; Sunday brunch.
East meets zest in the Southwestern-style pasta picante ($12.99), a mouthwatering medley of al dente noodles tossed with savory chorizo slices, grilled chicken, and a corn–cilantro-onion blend, all covered in a zesty homemade cream sauce.
RT’s restaurant
Del Ray; 703-684-6010; www.rtsrestaurant.net
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, Monday through Saturday, dinner daily.
Those in search of a mid-day Mardi Gras can revel in a lunch of oysters Nezpique, combining deep-fried oysters, nuggets of pulled crab and matchsticks of smoked ham, all submerged in a fiery Cajun roux. C’est si bon!
Backyard Grill & Bar
Chantilly; 703-802-6400
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch.
This whole Maine lobster deal ($10)—good only at the inside bar, from 4 p.m. till they run out on Tuesdays—summons a steamed, 1+ pound beauty with pre-split tail (for easy picking) and the legs and claws intact.
Dumfries Cafe
Dumfries; 703-441-1465
Average entree: under $12 ($).Open for breakfast and lunch daily.
If it’s Monday, get thee to Dumfries for a Salisbury steak special ($6.45) sporting an onion-laden, ground beef patty doused in home-style gravy, served with a pair of toasted dinner rolls and steamed vegetables on the side.
Euro Bistro
Herndon; 703-481-8158; www.euro-bistro.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, weekdays, dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.
A semi-regular special at this Austro-Hungarian stronghold, the lunch portion of zegedine goulash ($9.95) summons tender pork stewed in a lush paprika sauce inundated with homemade sauerkraut, and a side of spaetzle (just itching to join all the action).
Blue Ocean
Fairfax; 703-425-7555
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Although fresh sushi is always on the menu here, the cut-rate chirashi sampler ($10.95)—revealing a rainbow of delicacies ranging from raw octopus to fried egg, all nestled atop a bed of sushi rice—is an absolute steal during lunch.
Giuseppe’s Ristorante Italiano
Haymarket; 703-753-1004
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Savor the homemade arancini ($7.95)—mountainous, fried starch bombs filled with seasoned ground beef, soupy rice, peas and diced prosciutto, all draped in streams of marinara and Alfredo.
Chutzpah
Multiple NoVa locations; www.chutzpahdeli.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; breakfast and lunch Sunday.
Pair an authentic chocolate egg cream ($2.25)—bearing a chocolate syrup base, frothy milk up top and a sea of chocolate-infused seltzer in between—with a hunk of cinnamon-crusted, chocolate babka ($3.25).
Del Merei Grille
Alexandria; 703-739-4335; www.delmereigrille.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner daily.
Sample a bit of everything on “The Plate” ($14)—including “frickles” (paper-thin, batter-fried pickle slices), homemade deviled eggs (mustardy mousse is sprinkled with paprika and studded with bacon) and beer-battered mozzarella.
(June/July 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 1st, 2008
Seafood Havens with A-lure-ing Specials
By Warren Rojas / Photography by Billy Small
It’s a funny word, fish.
It’s a noun. A verb. Replace the “f” with the now colloquial “ph,” and you’ve got a trance-inducing jam band or disruptive email.
Add “fresh” to the equation and you plunge into a sea of delicious possibilities—a world where savvy restaurants shun offering just a few obligatory filets and instead celebrate the vastness of Neptune’s bounty, daily.
Come along and get hooked on some of the finest fish specials around.
McCormick & Schmick’s
Mclean, Reston locations | www.mccormickandschmicks.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Tempting Tuna Nicoise
A pioneer in the field of seafood fine-dining that has spawned a legion of imitators since, McCormick & Schmick’s’ focus on quality, variety and freshness still leaves us reeling.
Whereas the chummier M&S Grills are perfect for a low-key meal with friends or family, the omnipresent bank of semi-private booths, hardwood everything, and polished brass handrails give the flagship restaurants that classic, power-spot feel that is so coveted by the inside-the-Beltway crowd.
That attention to detail spills over onto the menu, which often changes between lunch and dinner—the restaurant prides itself on carrying nearly three dozen different seafood varieties, none of which are ever frozen—and typically includes no less than a dozen seafood specialties, plus a full battery of traditional pasta and grilled seafood-bearing items.
A portion of rainbow trout reveals a monster, maple-glazed filet that smacks of sweet smoke and butter, and is covered with an almost candy-like apple chutney (thrilling). A handmade, albacore tuna cake takes a Pan-Asian turn when paired with a snappy teriyaki dipping sauce, a mound of sticky rice and steamed vegetables (unexpected, yet much appreciated). Another evening, Fijian yellowfin tuna emerges as tender nuggets of lightly grilled fish drizzled with a spicy-sweet, mustard-teriyaki blend (fantastic).
Meanwhile, keep an eye on the always changing array of fresh oysters flown in from as far away as Nova Scotia and as close as Chincoteague. And if you see the Carlsbad Blondes from California, shell out the extra clams and enjoy the amazingly robust flavor.
Clare & Don’s Beach Shack
Falls Church; 703-532-9283 | www.clareanddons.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Given the steady stream of lunchtime supplicants and burgeoning dinnertime crowds, it would seem the recent move from Clarendon to Falls Church has evidently done little to sideline the popularity of Clare and Don’s Beach Shack.
An inland oasis manufactured by the local brother and sister team of Rebecca and David Tax, Clare & Don’s continues the traditions it began just down the road in Arlington by inundating customers with all the amenities of a trip to the shore without having to vacuum the sand from your car.
Autographed flip-flips dangle playfully above the main bar, encouraging you to kick off your own shoes, even if just for a while. Inlaid maps of touristy beach destinations (ranging from neighboring Virginia Beach down to Cocoa Beach, Fla.) stir up memories of family trips long gone. And the overabundance of bamboo, rattan and sun-tanned blond hardwoods help set your brain to balmy no matter what the weather outside.
The kitchen regularly prepares at least four fresh catch specials per day—a collection which typically includes tuna, grouper, mahi mahi and another seasonal selection (frequently tilapia or possibly snapper)—along with around another dozen seafood standards.
The grilled mahi mahi proves to be a monument to simplicity; the tasty fish gets promenaded past the grill just long enough to attain some respectable sear marks but otherwise emerges amazingly moist. (The mahi is so good, in fact, it prompted one dining companion to call back the next day to again thank me for the privilege of sampling the masterfully prepared fish). On another night, blackened tuna emerges blaze-orange on top—dusted with mouth-watering Cajun spices—but remains juicy throughout.
Finger food fans, meanwhile, are sure to love the outrageously spicy Buffalo shrimp, a collection of six jumbo shrimp with just a hint of breading and a whole lotta heat.
Coastal Flats
Fairfax, Mclean locations | www.greatamericanrestaurants.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.
The briny arm of the ever-popular Great American Restaurants (GAR) family, Coastal Flats, brings together the finest seafood proffered by the local dining chain beneath its faux sun-bleached roof.
Interiors are adorned with matching ceramic fish displays and other playful oceanic pieces. But the real art is appreciated tableside, thanks to Coastal’s unique ability to cull from the confluence of seafood dishes served at its sibling restaurants while also developing signature creations all their own.
Coastal showcases at least one catch of the day special—which staff members say can change several times per day (based on availability) and often includes either rockfish, swordfish or grouper paired with a daily starch selection—alongside the dozen+ seafood standards on the regular menu.
The hugely popular short smoked salmon—a chorus of dining companions has declared this their favorite seafood dish in the area, well-deserved praise in this case—emerges enveloped in smoke, with the distinctly salmon flavor sealed in. The Hong Kong-style sea bass summons steamed filets of alabaster-white fish draped across sauteed spinach, then drizzled with a tangy soy marinade (the sensational sweet-and-sour absolutely sings) .
In terms of endless variety, one day a gorgeous filet of grilled mahi mahi comes in a sizzling cast-iron skillet coated with an infectious, if somewhat muddled, clam juice-fennel-sweet pea-pancetta broth (fish is pleasantly sweet, but the sauce pulls in too many directions). Another day, the same succulent filet gets rubbed with sea salt, seared on a grill and is then tossed onto a bed of black pepper linguine, bordered by a garden vegetable medley soaking in a terrific roasted red pepper sauce (fantastic).
One refreshing opener includes about a dozen hefty shrimp submerged in a sultry mix of tomatoes, onions, citrus juice, mangoes, avocado and fresh cilantro (a perfectly satisfying standalone meal).
And while the restaurant eschews carry-out orders (the GAR elders claim their food doesn’t “travel well”), there’s no need to worry about the freshness of any leftovers since staff always make sure to properly label and date all take-home containers for easy identification.
Capri Restaurant
McLean; 703-288-4601
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$).Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner daily.
A caper-covered masterpiece
To some, a cryptic message to “meet me at a McLean strip mall,” might not sound like an invitation to sample seafood so fresh you half expect the chef to appear tableside in full rain gear and galoshes.
Doubters, get thee to Capri.
The upper-level mini-mall setting may beget worries of limp, to-go pizzas or over-sauced noodles. But the focus here is clearly Mediterranean-style seafood—as evidenced by the colorful snapshots of the southwestern Italian coast sprinkled along the walls or the prominent fishing net recast as a partition between the bar and the main dining room.
And while hard to spot for novices, the place appears to be a magnet for chatty girlfriends, wine-drinking couples and father-son outings amongst those in the know.
One chef says they try to balance the roughly six to eight daily specials between sea, land and air, but quickly notes, “we have a lot of seafood.” The static menu, meanwhile, is stocked with almost a dozen seafood-centric dishes, including grilled entrees, pasta-related offerings and assorted stews.
A special of Hawaiian swordfish summons a gorgeous, 2-inch thick steak with steely skin but a tender middle; the supple fish is covered in a lush tomato sauce accented by capers and bulging black olives.
Another whopper of a meal is a full 1 ½ pounds of head-on, bones-in branzino (staff can de-bone the beast at your request), which is grilled till the ever-so crispy, copper flesh surrounds a center of richly perfumed meat (infused with olive oil and herbs).
Elsewhere, a generous patty of shredded, lump meat crab and ground shrimp is padded with scallions and peppers (more spice than filler), then gets drizzled with a lemon-herb-white wine reduction.
The Wharf
Old Town Alexandria; 703-836-2836 | www.rtsrestaurant.net/Wharf.htm
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch.
Powerful Portuguese mussels
Try as you might, it’s tough to catch an unobstructed view of the mighty Potomac from The Wharf’s cozy little outdoor patio. But just a few bites of their daily seafood specials are often all that is required to flood the mind with deep appreciation for the ocean’s generous bounty.
A now familiar fixture of the Old Town Alexandria dining scene, the longstanding seafood restaurant attempts to lure in passers-by with rotating chalkboard specials—featuring everything from dill-parmesan salmon fettuccine to crab Imperial-stuffed mahi mahi—posted prominently beside the rickety front door.
Apart from the auxiliary lunch and dinner specials, the kitchen typically offers over a half dozen fresh fish (delivered daily) on the regular menu, along with assorted seafood soups, starters and sandwiches.
The signature barbecue salmon plate is perfect for a Southern picnic, balancing a spice-dusted filet atop a mountain of creamy potato salad embedded in sauteed spinach. A portion of cornbread crusted haddock surrounded by a stellar Eastern Shore crab succotash makes your head swim; the broiled fish sports a delectable cornbread crust with some definite body (surprisingly spicy) while the succotash (lima beans, corn, peppers and crab in a dreamy cream sauce) proves divine.
Elsewhere, a bowl of Portuguese-style mussels conjures over a dozen meaty bivalves swimming in a sanguine brew of diced tomatoes, onions and spicy sausage (delicious). Or cool down with an ice-chilled mound of jumbo lump crab, lettuce and capers covered in a tongue-teasing mustard blend.
During one visit, the bartender asked a regular if they’d be back around the next day. “As long as those oysters stay as good as they are, I’ll be back,” he assured the grinning server. We concur.
Simply Fish
Alexandria; 703-778-3474 | www.simplyfish.us
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for dinner daily.
Chimichurri-soaked swordfish
Contrary to most Judeo-Christian belief structures, some would say that simplicity is, in fact, a virtue. Overarching moral arguments aside, it is refreshing to come upon an entity whose goal appears to be the perfection of a singular task, done to the utmost of its ability.
That would appear to be the philosophy of the folks behind Simply Fish.
An offshoot of the somewhat rowdier Ramparts (a casual neighborhood eatery planted right next door), Simply Fish projects controlled cool via oceanic murals and eye-catching carcasses that appear to be plucked from a cast-iron sea.
The regular menu boasts over a half dozen seafood specialty plates—including staples like salmon, swordfish, tuna, mahi mahi, rockfish and jumbo shrimp—ready to be steamed, grilled, broiled, blackened or sauteed, depending on your particular fancy.
Daily specials can also be enhanced with a splash of one of the many signature sauces (including a zesty chimichurri, buttery dill-beurre blanc, and chunky vegetable-crab blend) created in-house.
A hearty portion of broiled swordfish anointed with the tantalizing crab sofrito sauce reveals firm but flavorful fish kept moist by a buttery soak. Blackened salmon is straightforward but never boring, providing plenty of deliciously smoky, terrifically flaky fish in every forkful. Elsewhere, grilled mahi mahi bathed in the homemade chimichurri briefly dances across the palate yet remains totally filling.
Meanwhile, management rolls out additional selections on weekends to sate frequent visitors.
Bonefish Grill
Multiple NoVA locations | www.bonefishgrill.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for dinner daily; lunch served weekends.
Unlike many of the now extinct “corporate casual” seafood houses that came before it, Bonefish Grill specializes in creatively prepared fish dishes not necessarily steeped in butter or buried beneath inordinate amounts of breading.
The seafood-centric restaurants are typically very inviting, if not overly packed on weekends. Staff is usually enthusiastic, fairly knowledgeable about the subtle nuances of the assorted fish they offer, and tend to keep on top of things with the familiar team-service configuration (anybody on the floor can help you, and they often do) embraced by similar high-volume eateries.
And if those longs lines are any indicator of quality, the fish must be fantastic.
The restaurants typically field about a dozen fresh seafood selections (everything is delivered daily) on their regular menu—which can all be prepared in custom lemon-butter, lime-tomato, mango salsa or pan-Asian sauces—including now-year-round staples like arctic char, tilapia, Chilean sea bass, mahi mahi, gulf grouper, salmon, rainbow trout and yellowfin tuna. A handful of daily specials (about four signature seafood dishes are showcased per day, and rotate every few weeks) might include a dressier version of a standard offering (spinach-feta covered salmon) or seasonal additions (Alaskan king crab legs).
Grilled grouper summons a generous cut of genuinely satisfying, peppery fish. A Chilean sea bass drizzled with the house tomato-garlic-lime sauce is on point; the perfectly puffy fish emerges from the grill still buttery soft.
Tilapia Rockefeller yields a succulent slab of fish smothered in a terrific sautéed spinach-pulled crab-crumbled bacon creation. Likewise, artic charr decorated with crab, spinach and crumbled feta proves heavenly; the robust fish absorbs the decadent dressing yet still manages to retain its own vibrant personality.
According to staff, the average filet weighs in at about 8 ounces per serving—though at least one server noted that, since it’s somewhat cheaper, the kitchen tends to be a little more generous with the salmon.
Coincidentally, once the Alexandria location opens later this summer, Virginia will have the most Bonefish restaurants outside their home state of Florida.
Finn & Porter
Alexandria; 703-379-2346 | www.finnandporter.com/alexandria
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
Unless you already happen to be an overnight guest of said accommodations, the idea of hotel dining may seem anathema to those in search of fresh seafood. Not so at the glitzy Finn & Porter, a Hilton-run enterprise that appears geared to expense-account heavies but manages to float enough appealing fish specials to draw even the common man in for a bite.
In keeping with the seafood theme, the restaurant focuses on both traditional fresh catch offerings as well as made-to-order sushi selections. The kitchen typically keeps at least a half-dozen seafood standards on the menu at all times, while throwing up a handful of daily specials (often seafood, but sometimes game), as well as a seasonal catch of the day selection (based on availability). The rotating selection includes the likes of Atlantic salmon, Hawaiian “big eye” tuna, orange roughy, Ecuadorian tilapia, Costa Rican mahi mahi, Maine sea scallops and Carolina trout, as well as the always lively lobsters (the only seafood stored on site; everything else is delivered daily).
A delicately seared tilapia is wonderfully simple; the tender fish has a classic, undisturbed flavor accented by just a pass of cracked black pepper and the pleasureable smoke garnered from time spent above a roaring fire.
The signature Alder plank roasted salmon plate is a little showier, delivering a bright orange filet (fish is flaky and very flavorful) on a charred wood plank, escorted by julienned vegetables, a tarragon aioli and some terrific roasted potatoes.
If in season, go ahead and have a go at the rotating buffet of chilled oysters, many of which are brought in almost exclusively from either the Massachusetts shore (Wiannos are favorites) or plucked from the icy waters surrounding British Columbia (Giga Motos are robust).
(May 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, November 26th, 2008
Breakfast Spots Worth Waking Up For
By Warren Rojas / Photography by Anastasia Chernyavsky
Breakfast is often heralded as the most important meal of the day. Yet so often, our mornings get underway with whatever burnt offering spews forth from the toaster or some paper-wrapped abomination shoved out a drive-thru window.
No more, say we.
It’s time to reclaim the right to a hot, homemade meal prepared with equal parts love and farm-fresh ingredients. Let us rally for weekend bonanzas actually worth counting calories all week for.
So follow us, to where the coffee is always on, the baked goods don’t come from a vending machine and nobody leaves the table hungry.
Daily Dejeuner
Yorkshire
7537 Centreville Rd., Manassas | 703-368-4905
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; breakfast and lunch Sunday
Yorkshire’s Hog of a Ham Steak
When one ornery regular complains about runny eggs, the Yorkshire waitress quickly fires back, “the chicken probably drank too much water.” An innocuous inquiry about the availability of fresh cranberry juice is likewise shot down, but not before the silver-tongued server adds, “and we ain’t got no vodka neither.”
Welcome to breakfast as community theater.
Much like the yellowing calendar tacked up above the register—forever frozen on December 1950—breakfast at the Yorkshire feels like a trip back to the era of true hometown diners. Locals pound coffee, smoke and gripe about “the rich people up in Fairfax and Sterling.” Tables double as billboards for local businesses.
And when the waitress assures you that “you get a good-sized portion no matter what you order,” she ain’t lyin’.
A farmer’s special brings a gloriously salty ham steak—a bone-in monolith of cured pork surrounded by a ring of buttery fat—that’s a shade away from qualifying as a diuretic. The breakfast club is a good-looking sandwich stacked with bacon, ham, eggs, lettuce, tomato, mayo and cheese. Meanwhile, the titular Yorkshire omelet folds bacon, sausage, ham, peppers, onions and cheese into fluffy eggs and surrounds it all with hash browned potatoes and cakey, homemade biscuits.
Daily Dejeuner
Payne’s
13846 Lee Hwy., Centreville | 703-830-8935 | www.paynesrestaurant.com
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for breakfast daily; lunch served Monday through Friday, and dinner Friday
Seconds after sitting down, the coffee starts coming. It is strong, piping hot and absolutely will not run out if the waitress has anything to do with it. All around are fellow diners who have come to devour the daily paper, suck down the first Pall Mall of the day and stuff their gullets with gravy-soaked everything.
You’d be smart to join them.
A neighborhood eatery bedecked with faded wood paneling and even older Redskins’ memorabilia, Payne’s remains a refuge for those who refuse to stand in line for designer java or consume anything that is not straight-from-the-griddle fresh. It’s cash-only, so there’s no fumbling for credit cards or personal checks.
But the lumberjack-sized helpings ensure you get your money’s worth.
A short stack goes gonzo with mammoth flapjacks covered in hash browns, scrambled eggs and peppery sausage gravy (a monstrous wake-me-up). The country fried steak and eggs platter brings a solid cut of beef that’s been battered, breaded and drenched in country gravy. A barnyard round-up of pork chops and eggs summons two neatly grilled chops accompanied by more eggs and scattered home fries.
One especially sassy waitress shoots over a knowing wink and a smile as she retires a half-eaten mountain of food, teasing “You weren’t hungry?”
Weekend Workhorses
Palm Court at Westfields
14750 Conference Center Dr., Chantilly | 703-818-3520 | www.westfieldspalmcourt.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch
Classic Benedict, À LA Palm Court
From the soothing piano music to the free-flowing Cava, brunch at the Palm Court compels you to break free from the daily grind.
While the decorum is all about elegance and class (think uniform-clad dining captains and sterling silver everything), diners appear to be a mix of everyday folk—including extended families, business groups and Red Hat Society ladies—looking to be spoiled for just a few hours.
And spoiled they are.
The awe-inspiring buffet is split between separate showcases of made-to-order creations (omelets, waffles), assorted salads (fresh fennel, ravioli and asparagus) and smoked fish (trout, dill-encrusted gravlox), and lavish desserts (fruit tortes, seasonal cakes).
Ample slices of rosemary rib rye taste even better crowned with a dab of garlicky gravy and homemade horseradish. Chilled duck breast partnered with Asian coleslaw is delicious. Roast chicken gets a boost from a tangy, Southwestern-style salsa. Carb lovers stand agape at the fresh fruit station (figs, apricot compote, orange mascarpone) as they deliberate how best to decorate their waffles.
And though I really shouldn’t, I head back for one more slice of fresh zucchini bread. And maybe a chocolatey black-bottom muffin …
Daily Dejeuner
Elsie’s Magic Skillet
8166 Richmond Hwy., Alexandria. 703.360.0220
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; breakfast and lunch Sunday
Elsie’s overstuffed omelets
The quaint, log cabin-like exterior seems oddly out of place along Route 1. Once inside, Elsie’s homey décor and friendly service quickly sets your mind at ease.
Unless you wind up as stumped as the gentleman who pleaded during a recent visit, “I’m having a hard time deciding. Everything looks good.”
A country kitchen boasting a broad array of breakfast options, Elsie’s keeps the focus on home-style cooking and overly generous portions. They cater to smaller appetites too, fielding abbreviated short stack (twin buttermilk pancakes) and mini-toast options (a pair of French toast slices).
Everyone else, prepare for the mother lode.
The Italian omelet is basically an egg calzone stuffed with zesty pepperoni slices, tangy tomato sauce and lots of molten mozzarella (bellissimo!). A so-bad-for-you-it’s-got-to-be-good creamed chipped beef creation summons a bulbous omelet bursting with bubbling cream and tender shreds of beef. The slightly healthier-sounding spinach, bacon and cheese omelet is packed with sautéed spinach, whole strips of bacon (so much for healthy) and gobs of American cheese. Meanwhile, tidy corned beef hash rounds are easily transformed into mini sandwiches when combined with a side of fresh biscuits.
Weekend Workhorses
Fortune
6249 Arlington Blvd., Falls Church | 703-538-3333/3338 | www.fortunebanquet.com
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily
Eggs. Toast. Bacon. Mere child’s play.
If you view brunch as more of an adventure outing than a spectator sport, Fortune’s full-contact dim sum assault may be just the gastronomic challenge you’ve been searching for.
The expansive Chinese restaurant always appears to be bustling, but never more so then when the army of steam cart-toting servers circumnavigates the main dining room (daily from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.), hawking their myriad wares. Although the dim sum parade happens regularly, you get a wider sampling of more native dishes during the weekend runs.
Shrimp and banana rolls sprinkled with sesame seeds are a savory-sweet triumph. Pan-fried dumplings of ground pork and shredded leeks get rolled into savory bundles and wrapped in wonton skin on their way to a quick sear. An alien-looking snowball of shrimp and crab gets rolled in rice noodles and is then deep-fried to seal in the real seafood flavor. Cantonese-style roast chicken bears crispy, honey-colored skin and five-spice infused white meat beneath (delicious). An order of barbecued pork reveals a mound of jolly, red goodness, dousing fatty strips of tender pork in a sweet soy glaze. The shredded pork reemerges with a slightly tangier sauce and a buttery crust as part of an equally enticing baked treat.
Daily Dejeuner
Amphora
377 W. Maple Ave., Vienna | 703-938-7877 | www.amphoragroup.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily
Eggs made extraordinary at Amphora
Round the clock breakfast service and killer pastries to boot? Oh, you wonderful folks at Amphora—you had us at round…
A neighborhood fixture for going on three decades, the Amphora has blossomed from humble family bakery into a full-fledged local restaurant empire. Daily crowds include guests ranging from famished families to hungry business associates to book-toting singles looking to fuel up on homemade brain food.
As expected, delicious cakes and pastries abound. But the kitchen crew has proven they can now give their confectionary counterparts a run for their money.
The nascent “Heavenly Hollandaise” selections—a welcome addition to the ever evolving breakfast carte—tugs traditional eggs Benedict in international directions, including the novel eggs Plaka (crowned with tender, shaved gyro meat), eggs Italiana (layered with patties of sweet Italian sausage) and eggs portobella (replaces the standard meat topping with a grilled mushroom, preserving all the flavor without sacrificing anything). The Greek pocket places a tomato, onion and feta-filled omelet atop a grilled pita, then scatters home fries all around. If sweet is what you crave, a stack of lightly browned peanut butter pancakes delivers a nostalgic jolt without sending you into sugar overload.
Weekend Workhorses
Paradiso Ristorante Italiano
6124 Franconia Rd., Springfield | 703-922-6222 | www.paradisoristorante.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch
Hard to say where on his ethereal continuum Dante Alighieri might place Paradiso’s daunting brunch spread. One could argue that the banquet of rich foods and tempting desserts are meant to test the will of man. Conversely, the steady stream of complimentary Mimosas and added convenience of a supervised playroom—an understated amenity that allows both child and parent to enjoy breakfast on their own terms—could be seen as a reward for day-to-day sacrifice.
Let the theologians bicker. You are here to eat.
The entire bar/lounge area is converted into a caloric wonderland of Italian delights and breakfast standards. Eggy French toast slices are flanked by an elaborate array of otherworldy toppings like real maple or brandy syrup, whipped cream, powdered sugar and assorted fruit. Antipasto creations (tortellini and black olives, artichokes-olives-mozzarella salad) jumpstart the appetite. Cheese ravioli in a spinach-asparagus-peas cream sauce proves pasta need not be flashy to fully satisfy. Homemade beef Marsala submerges wonderfully tender medallions in a seductive wine sauce studded with mushrooms. Sugary closers include a lacy red velvet cake and a make-your-own sundae area stocked with vanilla ice cream, a cauldron of bubbling hot fudge, and sides of chocolate chips and rainbow jimmies.
Daily Dejeuner
The Coach Stop
9 E. Washington St., Middleburg | 540-687-5515 | www.coachstop.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily
On the off chance your personal organizer includes abutting entries like “close multi-million $$ land deal” and “de-funkify stables” on the same afternoon, confidence is high your morning routine begins at Middleburg’s venerable Coach Stop.
Regulars receive a formal yet folksy greeting—”Good morning, Mr. ‘X.’ How was your weekend?”—before taking their place at a communal meal counter to begin laboring over their daily crossword puzzle, all the while nursing a bottomless cup of coffee. Hefty placemats adorned with fox hunting and equestrian scenes protect the worn, wooden tables. And an information smorgasbord can be had by picking up any of a number of available periodicals, including sporting journals (Horse Talk, Daily Racing Form), assorted dailies (International Herald Tribune, The New York Times), tony lifestyle outlets (Loudoun magazine, The Georgetowner) and local pubs (Leesburg Today).
But man does not live on news alone.
Dulcet slabs of sugar-cured ham slap your tongue awake. Spiced country sausage rounds sizzle on arrival. Oven-roasted potatoes emerge tender and golden brown. An order of creamed chipped beef blankets buttery, homemade biscuits in a beefy batter that clings to your fork.
Weekend Workhorses
Claire’s at the Depot
65 S. Third St., Warrenton | 540-351-1616 | www.clairescatering.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, and brunch on Sunday; closed Monday
Seems every trip out to Warrenton nets another dining destination extraordinaire. Case in point: a leisurely visit to Claire’s—an old school train station turned fine-dining experience with plenty of polish—uncovers a brunch opportunity that ties together comfort with just a touch of the unexpected.
The adventure begins with a complimentary basket of homemade, cranberry-orange scones (blissfully sweet) accompanied by frozen (tsk! tsk!) lemon-poppy seed butter. A hearty stock brimming with country ham, chewy lentils and sliced mushrooms is warming on a blustery day, but I kept wishing for a buttermilk biscuit or cornbread muffin to appear. Flash-seared tuna slices recline on crispy wonton crackers as they wait to be dunked into a tangy soy sauce or graced with a swipe of creamy wasabi paste. Plump, cornmeal-covered oysters are fried golden brown and come accompanied by a spirited bloody Mary cocktail sauce that threatens to turn breakfast into happy hour. A house special of fish and grits features a rotating fish selection (grilled trout is good) covered with scrambled eggs and a side of get’em-while-they’re-hot grits (as dense as mashed potatoes, but twice as cheesy). A dish of butternut squash ravioli showers the vegetable-filled noodles in a velvety fresh basil-Alfredo sauce blend.
Daily Dejeuner
Linda’s Cafe
45665 W. Church Rd. #109, Sterling | 703-433-5637
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; breakfast and lunch Sunday
What’s better than having a hot breakfast waiting for you each morning? Having a hot breakfast whenever you want it.
The owner of this bright and cheery eatery says he spent five years slinging hash at the original Linda’s in South Arlington before bringing the no-nonsense business model out to the edge of western Fairfax. As such, breakfast is still served all day. Daily specials are dutifully scrawled on a dry-erase board. And the menu features the familiar omelets (ham and cheese, Western, Greek), assorted griddle fare (pancakes, French toast), and breakfast combo platters that have kept Arlingtonians well fed for ages.
A generous platter of crumbly corned beef and fluffy yellow eggs summons perfectly equal portions of each, plus a side of crispy hash browns. The namesake Linda’s omelet is a whopper of a wake-me-up, revealing a giant, egg-lined envelope filled with diced sausage, peppers, onions and just the right amount of cheese. Chopped steak and eggs unites eggs and home fries layered with grilled onions with a juicy, 6-ounce burger. Likewise, a good morning griller of lean sausage, fluffy eggs and melted cheese stuffed inside a buttery croissant gets things going at any hour.
Weekend Workhorses
Caribbean Breeze
4100 N. Fairfax Dr., Arlington | 703-812-7997 | www.caribbeanbreezeva.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch
Roast lechon is all the rage at Caribbean Breeze
Those who long to jumpstart their day with a hint of sabor Latino should blow into the Caribbean Breeze brunch, a global buffet melding traditional morning starters (eggs, waffles) with international favorites (made-to-order quesadillas).
Inside the sunny, pastel-laden dining area, a live jazz combo lays down a mellow groove. Jovial bartenders stand at the ready to whip up any number of festive fruit cocktails (rum and tequila figures prominently in just about everything) to brighten your mood. Or for $5 more, you can tack on unlimited Mimosas to your meal.
Just make sure to leave enough room for the main event.
Hand-carved slices of spice-rubbed lechon—a roast suckling pig dish that typically only graces Latin tables during the holidays or at special occasions—is divine, particularly when finished off with a splash of pineapple salsa. Tender chunks of charbroiled chicken shine beneath a sheen of homemade chimichurri. Crispy chicken empanadas are fantastic; the shredded chicken works equally well in the salsa-soaked enchiladas. Ropa vieja yields a hearty mass of shredded flank steak, sliced peppers and onions, all steeped in tomato sauce. Tortellini is smothered in broth of savory ground beef and stewed tomatoes (Irie!).
Weekend Workhorses
Clarendon Grill
1101 N. Highland St., Arlington | 703.524.7455 | www.cgrill.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late night dining daily; brunch on weekends
Clarendon Grill's habit-forming crab hash
You might consider it dumb luck, that a neighborhood watering hole—perhaps best known for its unshakable allegiance to local cover bands—happens to prepare some of the tastiest brunch selections in town.
But offering up those signature creations all weekend long would suggest the folks at Clarendon Grill are actually full-fledged geniuses.
The core menu features about a half-dozen specialty omelets (seafood, chicken, garden, Mediterranean, western, build-your-own) plus a number of breakfast classics tweaked for the modern gourmand.
The stunning Carolina crab hash scatters nuggets of tender crab mixed with potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and onions around a pair of hollandaise covered eggs parked atop toast rounds (glorious). A well-constructed egg sandwich—which one dining companion swears may be the best breakfast sandwich ever made, anywhere—slides eggs, ham, onions, peppers and provolone into a toasted potato roll slathered with spicy mayonnaise. For a Latin take on traditional biscuits and gravy, try an open-faced sandwich of fried chorizo and egg draped across a pair of sweet corn squares covered in country gravy. Or tear into an order of huevos rancheros bearing scrambled eggs smothered with cheese, tomatoes and onions, then poured over home fries.
Weekend Workhorses
Dixie Bones
13440 Occoquan Rd., Woodbridge | 703-492-2205 | www.dixiebones.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch
Devout or not, everybody has to shore up their strength on Sunday to prepare for the week ahead. And while the worshipping masses may part company when it comes to their individual beliefs, disciples of stick-to-your-ribs-good barbecue can be found communing at Dixie Bones for what has become an unofficial after-church tradition.
Extended families squeeze into the narrow booths and risk despoiling their Sunday’s best to enjoy the heavenly arrangement of steaming barbecue, savory sides and made-from-scratch desserts.
A basket of hard rolls caters to the make-your-sandwich enthusiast in all of us. Slow-roasted beef brisket is tender, meaty and comes alive with a splash of the tomatoey house marinade (black topped bottle on each table). Clusters of shredded swine are quite fine, but get even better when crowned with the homemade slaw and a squirt of vinegar sauce (red topped bottle). Grilled Italian sausages are sweet, stocky snacks. The homemade macaroni and cheese is dripping with real melted cheddar yet never devolves into an oily mess. A heartwarming slice of pecan pie bears chopped pecans on top, a bubbling, sugary brown mash beneath, and a hearty flour crust to hold it all together.
Daily Dejeuner
Buzz
901 Slaters Ln., Alexandria | 703-600-2899 | www.buzzonslaters.com
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.
Breakfast by the numbers at Buzz
Having made in-roads with the late-night (Vermilion) and fine-dining (Tallula) crowds, the Neighborhood Restaurant Group now wants to corner the breakfast market with Buzz, a bakery lounge specializing in sweet nothings that are really something.
Their post-modern coffeehouse is thoroughly outfitted with cushy sofas and recliners, free Wi-Fi for roving techies and vintage toy ovens for the kids to play with. They offer a full battery of Illy-based caffeinated beverages from full espresso on down to the clever “why bother?” (decaf, non-fat, sugar-free vanilla latte), plus traditional espresso, cappuccino and even hot chocolate.
And then there are the baked goods.
Brioche packed with crumbled bacon, scrambled eggs and melted cheese is a mondo muffin concealing a built-in breakfast. Homemade cinnamon rolls are lightly glazed, golden ringlets filled with chewy cinnamon. A hearty maple sausage and cheese biscuit injects traditional buttermilk with savory-sweet sausage. A ham and cheese scone envelops the titular sandwich fillers in semi-sweet dough. Or sample any of the wonderful muffins, including pineapple-coconut (sweet hits you first while the coconut seems to linger) and strawberry (bright as a morning breeze), or fruit-filled scones (oat-currant has a welcome grit, orange-cranberry delivers a citrus kick).
(April 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, November 26th, 2008
By Warren Rojas / Photography By Anastasia Chernyavsky
Spring may be the season of rebirth, but our local dining scene has been in full bloom year round.
We popped in, filled up and hung out at dozens of newcomers before settling on our 20 very favorite restaurants—a contingent including at least one successful spin-off, a few District defectors and a number of first-timers we’d like to see stick around for the long haul.
If you don’t know them, please allow us to introduce you to the Best New Restaurants of 2007 (and the chefs who make them so special).
BEST NEW Southern Belle
Indigo Landing
1 Marina Dr., Alexandria. 703-548-0001 | www.indigolanding.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch
Indigo’s mallard medley
Gorgeous water view: check. Attentive staff: check. Renowned chef aiming to take low-country cooking to new heights: check +. When it comes to the class of 2007, Indigo Landing is definitely making the grade as one of the finest new restaurants in the area.
Twinkling lights from the District skyline set the mood for hopeless romantics, while the rhythmic lapping of the Potomac supplies the ideal soundtrack for a lazy, afternoon lunch. Inside, an army of gracious servers buzz about announcing the arrival of chef Bryan Moscatello’s toothsome creations, retiring empty plates and providing unvarnished advice about the restaurant’s distinctly Southern tilt.
A basket of homemade breads bearing a smoked bacon stick (all the flavor, sans the grease), jalapeño muffins and flaky biscuits, is a snappy how-do-you-do. A comforting bowl of she-crab soup gets dressed up with a captivating crab-filled swizzle stick (terrific). The sultry oyster pie combines meaty oysters, chopped mushrooms and shredded herbs in a creamery soup, crowned with a round of crusty toast. Jumbo shrimp stand proudly atop milky cheddar grits bombarded with bits of country bacon, diced peppers and streaks of buttery cream. The so-called “duck bog” proves a worthwhile trek, delivering a weighty mass of roast duck breast (good), duck liver (better) and chopped duck sausage (best) entrenched in a soupy blend of wild grain rice, rendered duck fat and tomato sauce. Elsewhere, a nutty round of sugary pecans scooped into a graham cracker crust and topped with a boozy ball of mint julep ice cream, will have you whistlin’ Dixie the whole way home.
Best New Country Bistro
The French Hound
101 Madison St., Middleburg | 540-687-3018
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch, Friday and Saturday, and dinner, Tuesday through Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Dogs are supposed to be man’s best friend. While no specific breed is ever mentioned, local gourmands looking for something with a Provençal pedigree crossed with a streak of Southern hospitality may want to swear their allegiance to Middleburg’s French Hound.
Since taking over the quaint manor that last housed the much haughtier Aster, Chef John-Gustin Birkitt and his wife/hostess, Marny, have set about to sway patrons with their splashy but never stuffy cuisine. Given that tables are often packed with everyone from spandex-clad bicycling enthusiasts to gregarious dinner groups, their plan seems to be working.
The menu changes seasonally but typically trumpets about a half dozen “snacks” (aged chorizo and cheese or salted radishes), starters, entrées and homemade desserts. One waiter notes that the menu has deliberately been kept short because “the chefs really wanted each dish to speak for the restaurant.”
Message received.
A chilled mash of white beans flanked by anchovies and baked baguette crisps is startlingly sublime. A tangle of frisee gets loaded up with homemade bacon lardons, pickled onions and a poached egg that spreads its yolky payload throughout. A marvelously juicy flat iron steak shares the spotlight with crunchy, herb-laden frites (totally addictive). The mixed paella—served tableside in a gleaming copper pot—sinks aged chorizo (terrific), shrimp (tender), chicken (good) and fresh peas in a rich tomato broth. And life doesn’t get much sweeter than a fan of spongy, sugar-dusted Madelines escorted by a decadent dulce de leche dipping sauce.
BEST NEW Indian Lounge
Tandoori Nights
2800 Clarendon Blvd., #900, Arlington | 703-248-8333 | www.tandoorinights.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$) Open for lunch and dinner daily
From the spacey murals to the earthy cuisine, there’s plenty of ground to cover at Tandoori Nights, Clarendon’s clubby Indian neighbor.
The look here is sleek, uncluttered elegance. Wall-length murals provide a colorful backdrop to each of the modern dining areas, while cushioned bar stools and plush sofas give comfort to the young and pretty who come to get down and dirty during happy hour.
Co-owner and executive chef Shivani Miglani prepares a number of Indian standards—Tandoori-style clay pot offerings, yogurt-laced stews, homemade flat breads like naan and roti—that should be familiar to most ethnic dining enthusiasts. Better yet are signature creations that take traditional Indian cooking in exciting new directions.
An innovative twist on garlic shrimp dunks several hefty prawns in an engaging white wine and honey glaze. A Goani-style fish entrée delivers whopping filets of flavorful salmon smothered in a thrilling red curry sauce accentuated by some terrific dried chilies (great dish). A portion of dim aloo summons hollowed out potatoes stuffed with homemade cheese and then simmered in a soothing yogurt sauce decorated with sliced almonds. The house lamb kabobs produce tender cubes of seasoned lamb brought to a blistering finish on the grill. The Tandoori chicken is respectable; the Tandoori shrimp emerges just slightly spicier. And if another mango lassi just won’t do, try one of the bar’s frosty fruit beverages, like a homemade chiller of mangoes and strawberries twirled about with crushed ice.
BEST NEW Deep-Fried Decadence
Eamonn’s-A Dublin Chipper
728 King St., Alexandria | 703-299-8384 | www.eamonnsdublinchipper.com
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily
Was a time when you had to visit TWO separate dining establishments to satisfy cravings for authentic fish and chips and apocalyptically sweet, county fair-style desserts. Those days are now long gone, thanks to the arrival of celebrity chef Cathal Armstrong’s latest project, Eamonn’s.
The fledgling Irish “chipper”—slang for a traditional fish and chip joint—is the playful ying to sibling Restaurant Eve’s swankier yang, offering a no-frills alternative that still manages to feel like a gourmet fish fry. Service is a mostly carry-out affair, although patrons are invited to mingle with fellow seafood lovers at the handful of communal tables.
A chalkboard menu touts lightly-fried cod filets (4- and 6-ounce portions of flavorful fish), battered ray (a delicious block of bone-in skate wing) and rotating fish of the day specials (swordfish yields a meaty mass of seafood goodness). Fried sausages (spice to spare) and salty, hand-cut “chips” hit the spot, while the battered “burgher,” sadly, flops hard (thin, lifeless patty emerges limp and overly battered). Meanwhile, virtually every flash-fried delicacy gets a boost from one of the “secret seven” dipping sauces, a cadre of mayo-based blends including a terrific hot chili aioli and the savory Chesapeake (spiked with Old Bay seasoning). Come dessert, Snickers bars get dipped in batter, deep-fried and then rolled in cinnamon sugar (absolutely debilitating), while homemade fried dough balls provide just the right balance between starch and sweet. Worthwhile liquid accompaniments include frothy Guinness pints, as well as bottles of Harp, Smithwick’s and Amstel Light.
BEST NEW Roman Refuge
Vespucci
10579 Fairfax Blvd., Fairfax | 703-272-8113 | www.vespuccirestaurant.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily
According to staff, the bright purple orchids that grace every dish served at Vespucci are completely edible, and in fact, heart-healthy. Seems like an awful lot of work for one little flower, considering the heft of the generous pastas and abundant seafood platters prepared by executive chef Emilio Sadaghiani.
An offshoot of owner Ray Farnood’s longstanding catering operation, Vespucci combines the pleasures of fine dining with the comfort of a neighborhood retreat. The main dining room is framed by striking hardwood rafters dotted with decorative lights shaped like grape clusters, while a nautical mural rounds out the restaurant’s unique personality.
The parade of Roman delights begins with a bread basket that sidesteps plain butter in favor of a roast garlic bulb steeped in olive oil (stunning). Roast eggplant envelops a purse of melted ricotta and mozzarella, all smothered in plum tomato sauce. Tortellini mimosa reveals cheese-stuffed ringlets surrounded by a creamy mascarpone sauce propped up by fresh peas and chopped pancetta. Pounded chicken filets are wrapped around a prosciutto-asparagus core, then smothered in melted mozzarella and set afloat in a sultry port wine reduction. Elsewhere, a lemony veal filet turbocharges a salad of torn arugula, sliced red onions and fresh tomatoes. Traditional desserts are tempting, but the hands-down favorite remains the frozen “bomba”—a multi-splendored mound of mango, lemon and raspberry sorbets encased within a white chocolate shell bolstered by bands of chocolate fudge (irresistible).
BEST NEW Elegant Thai
Cee Fine Thai Dining
9901 Fairfax Blvd., Fairfax | 703-293-9898 | www.ceefinethaidining.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily
East trests West at Cee
Seems everywhere you turn these days, a new Thai place crops up overnight. But while many of these fly-by-night operations offer little more than Americanized take-out or deliberately bland buffet offerings, the traditionalists at Cee have accessorized their authentic cuisine with stylish surroundings and unreserved hospitality.
Waitresses in prim khaki tops and long black skirts see to your every need, offering suggestions for those who might founder when faced with the nearly 100 dining options.
For a tidy but tasteful treat, try the delicious “golden sacks,” crispy fried dim sum filled with minced pork and shrimp. A plate of sun-dried beef summons a cluster of crunchy, shredded beef. Marinated chicken wings are grilled instead of drowning to death in a deep-fryer. Strips of barbecue pork absolutely sizzle when introduced to the spicy lime-scallion sauce at their side (excellent). A signature catfish delivers swaths of tender fish with creeper heat (love those piquant chili pods) hidden beneath a seductive honey glaze. Elsewhere, the dichotomous lamb in two seasons yields succulent lamb chops drenched in contrasting pools of scorching red chili sauce with just a touch of coconut milk, and a fragrant garlic base; the combative yet complementary flavors are sectioned off by a wall of steamed broccoli and fresh asparagus.
BEST NEW Sibling Tag-Team
Restaurant Vero
5723 Lee Hwy., Arlington | 703-538-4600 | www.restaurantvero.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
A star is born at Restaurant Vero
If you have to peek down to the bottom of this review to learn where Restaurant Vero is, it may already be too late for you to get a good table. Particularly since locals have already lain claim to this serene neighborhood charmer.
Inside, tea lights keep things low-key, while wine and mustard walls project a quiet calm. Co-owner Joy Reinhardt keeps a close eye on the front of the house, while her twin brother and the executive chef, Jay, keeps things humming in the kitchen. Meanwhile, co-owner Veronica Kunkel has cobbled together a thoughtful wine list designed to complement their worldly cuisine.
Seared polenta gets smothered beneath a mound of fiery, pulled duck (gloriously mercurial mallard). A slice of well-balanced quiche delivers smoky bacon and fluffy cheese in every bite. A hearty crab cake sandwich reveals a mustardy mound of shredded crab that’s easy on the breading and heavy on genuine, seafood flavor. Tuscan pork ribs exude tomato zest and Italian spices; take your time prying the slow-roasted meat from the bone and even more time savoring the robust flavors from each bite. For sweets, look to a homemade casserole of warm peaches covered in ginger-spiked granola (the real showstopper, here) and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
BEST NEW Suburban Sophisticate
Bazin’s on Church
111 Church St., Vienna | 703-255-7212 | www.bazinsonchurch.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner Tuesday through Saturday, and Sunday brunch; closed Monday
Bazin's oh-so-good oysters
Dining at Bazin’s may not yet qualify as a religious experience. But the thoughtful selections and artful execution at this culinary temple does provide patrons plenty to be thankful for.
The first solo venture for ex-Occidental chef Patrick Bazin and his wife/general manager, Julie, has rapidly become a familiar destination for local gourmands who prefer to dine locally rather than trek downtown. The fairly diverse menu features about a dozen appetizers, another dozen specialty plates and almost as many tempting desserts. During a moment of pause, one waiter suggests, “Everything is very good. Don’t hesitate.”
And he’s mostly right.
Crispy oysters arrive arranged in decorative clamshells only to be topped with a dreamy creamed spinach and country ham mix. Goat cheese profiteroles pack a savory punch, while the corresponding diced beet and walnut salad offers a refreshing crunch. In a brilliant twist on traditional bar fare, jumbo shrimp that have been breaded, fried and coated in a fiery hot sauce (the main event) are lowered into a bed of blue cheese risotto (the dip) decorated with a celery salad (the side). An Iowa pork chop is as big as the Midwest but occasionally emerges as dry as the Dust Bowl. Luckily, the accompanying sweet potato mash (dosed with vanilla) always comes to the rescue. For dessert, look no further than the chocoriffic Michel’s—as in the genius over at Citronelle—chocolate hazelnut crunch bars (bathed in chocolate and caramel) or the peanut butter tart (a heavenly blend of peanut butter, chocolate and ice cream).
BEST NEW Celtic Transplant
Rí Rá Irish Pub & Restaurant
2915 Wilson Blvd., Arlington | 703-248-9888 | www.rira.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily; brunch on weekends
Not ones to wait till the middle of March to celebrate their heritage, the proud Irish expatriates at the new Rí Rá share their culture, cuisine and camaraderie with all who pass through their royal blue doors.
The one-time hardware store (the Virginia Hardware Company sign still juts out from the roof) has been reborn as an upscale pub with a sleek-looking bar heavy on imported drafts, a two-tier dining area and a jovial band of fair-skinned servers that bid you welcome in a prominent brogue. Emerald Isle staples like Colman’s mustard and the vinegary HP sauce (the British A1) are available to spice up any meal, while parched gullets can seek solace in a meticulously poured Guinness or a refreshing glass of Magners cider.
As expected, the menu is rife with Celtic standards (corned beef and cabbage, fish and chips) and pub grub like custom burgers and made-to-order sandwiches.
Meaty wings are coated in a robust Guinness barbecue sauce bolstered by crushed pepper. Fried potato cakes yield lacy patties accented with sour cream and a balsamic reduction. A thick and hearty shepherd’s pie heaps drifts of whipped potatoes atop an almost chili-like ground beef brew. Lamb stew is populated with hefty cubes of tender lamb and vegetables in a thick, cream broth. And you’ll require a lot more than luck to dispatch a gut-busting traditional breakfast stacked with jumbo sausages (bangers), grilled ham steaks (rashers), black and white pudding (rounds of homemade blood and bloodless sausage, respectively), baked beans, fried eggs and Irish soda bread.
BEST NEW Modern Mezze
100 King
100 King St., Alexandria | 703-299-0076 | www.100king.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily
Some people loathe the small-plates-as-centerpieces phenomenon that has electrified the restaurant industry in recent years. But when done properly—as is the case at newcomer 100 King—a parade of pint-sized portions makes it easy to broaden your palate without necessarily thinning out your wallet.
This slick addition to the Lebanese Taverna empire may soon overshadow its homier parents, given its ability to sate fine-dining enthusiasts, wine aficionados and mezze lovers all under one roof. The classic white décor projects a minimalist cool throughout. Patrons have the choice of a bustling downstairs bar/lounge or the more reserved upstairs dining area.
Willard Room veteran Denis Soriano brings along an eye for detail and a passion for the exotic that elevates most plates, big or small, to potential crowd pleasers.
Shrimp Arak summons a gang of meaty crustaceans tossed in lemon juice and red onions. Mushroom fricassee produces a savory mass of wild mushrooms first slivered, then sautéed in garlic and olive oil. A duck confit teaser yields crispy skin and tender meat heaped atop a mound of spiced lentils. A generous pork loin chop basks in a snazzy fig sauce, bolstered by pancetta and chopped portobellos. Chilean sea bass brings a copper-colored filet that flakes with the mere flick of a tine, perched atop a nest of broccolini (a broccoli/Chinese kale hybrid that smacks of spaghetti squash). Sweets are good, but an après dinner portion of Valdeón (knockout Spanish blue cheese) or Chevrot (creamy goat’s milk cheese with honey notes) is even better.
BEST NEW Spice Sensation
Farrah Olivia
600 Franklin St., Alexandria | 703-778-2233 | www.farraholiviarestaurant.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch
Gourmet grits
On first blush, the Farrah Olivia menu could easily be mistaken for a mad scientist’s grocery list: berbere oil, powdered bacon, honeyed cabbage. But the seemingly exotic becomes strikingly straightforward in the hands of chef Morou Ouattara, a culinary wizard determined to broaden your tastes while simultaneously blowing your mind.
Resurfacing after a brief stint at D.C.’s scandal-plagued Signatures (good food, bad rep), Ouattara seems reinvigorated. No longer bound by an all-expense-account clientele, he is now free to tease diners with magical creations reflecting his West African heritage.
Velvety sourdough flan is flanked by grilled sardines, a hill of pulverized bacon and romaine leaves spritzed with Caesar dressing (a Cirque du Soleil-worthy balancing act). Roast pork awash in a curiously strong chocolate-merlot sauce is joined by a fatty cube of Tandoori pork belly (awesome). A savory casserole of tender eggplant, tomato confit, cheddar gratinée and tiny brioche squares nestled in a pool of Greek yogurt sends you sailing through the Mediterranean. Seared scallops atop truffled grits blow traditional brunch offerings out of the water; the creamy grains imbued with a smoky character accentuated by diced scallions and bits of country ham. Ornate chocolate and innovative fruit desserts abound, but don’t overlook the rotating slate of artisanal cheeses (often accompanied by extras like macerated grapes, squiggles of honey, toast sticks and homemade caramel brittle).
In fact, the only real complaint is that the restroom is parked in the highest traffic area possible—wedged between the servers’ station and the entrance to the kitchen.
BEST NEW Revolutionary Café
Bastille
1201 N. Royal St., Alexandria | 703-519-3776 | www.bastillerestaurant.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch, Tuesday through Saturday, and dinner, Tuesday through Sunday; closed Monday
There’s certainly no shortage of fancy French cooking in the Northern Virginia area. Still, it’s always a pleasure to see talented chefs cross the Potomac to practice their craft in more intimate environs—as is the case at neighborhood gem, Bastille.
Ex-Aquarelle toques Christophe Poteaux (savory) and Michelle Garbee (sweets) fled the District for the spot formerly occupied by the Cajun-themed Café Marianna. Patrons are now greeted by glossy wood tables, refinished hardwood floors and cheery paintings by local artists that leap out from walls awash in earthy brown and deep burgundy tones.
Garbee maintains a watchful eye on both sides of the house here, often pausing to personally instruct staff on potential wine and even gourmet beer pairings to accompany Poteaux’s nouveau French cuisine.
A snazzy crab and crawfish cake reveals a lemony patty of fresh seafood (no filler here) served amidst a garden of fresh greens. An all-duck charcuterie tray brings fatty prosciutto with preserves, a crackly leg confit and a buttery rillete. Atlantic cod (nicely seared) is draped across a zesty mound of citrus-soaked risotto. Even the misses are somewhat praiseworthy. Faintly sweet calamari beignets—clever seafood clusters of squid and shrimp in a deep-fried embrace—are terrific, but often get overpowered by their harissa (a traditional Tunisian hot sauce) yogurt mate. Likewise, a handsome croque monsieur is sabotaged by too much salt (salty butter on the bread butts heads with the equally salty country ham within), only to be redeemed by some grand homemade frites.
BEST NEW Traditional Tapas
Tapeo
1301 S. Joyce St., Arlington | 703.416.6432 | www.tapeovirginia.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily
The owners of Tapeo should be fined for practicing medicine without a license. Considering that regular doses of their appetizing small plates, mood-lightening sangrias and spirited Flamenco shows are perhaps the best way to overcome any latent intimacy issues without subsidizing your therapist’s monthly car payment.
The tapas haven is the brainchild of neighboring Ristorante Murali owner Riyad Bouizar, who has moved from Italy to Spain for his latest gastronomic endeavor. The sounds of world music keep things loose in a dining room populated by dozens of bright red chairs, compact tables and a glossy wood bar, while an outdoor patio provides al fresco dining.
The menu features about four dozen hot and cold tapas selections—including over a dozen creations that can be upgraded to full-sized entrées—plus a variety of traditional soups, various paellas (seafood, vegetarian and mixed) and a handful of salads.
The signature Tapeo pizza summons a minipie draped in an almond-infused romesco sauce and topped with a thick layer of mozzarella embedded with chunks of spicy chorizo. An order of jamon Iberico produces grilled pork loin smothered in mashed potatoes, caramelized onions and pert orange gravy (fantastico!). A soupy blend of calamari in black ink-stained rice is seductively spicy (fresh ink adds bite). Tender quail is crisp on the outside but juicy within thanks to some fatty bacon filling. Meanwhile, a mixed paella bearing jumbo shrimp, savory chorizo links, tender chicken and salty fish surrounded by saffron-laced rice would make most Madrileños proud.
BEST NEW Fusion Tapas
Tavern on the Lake
1617 Washington Plz., Reston | 703-471-0121 | www.tavernlake.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch
To some, the term “American tapas” may sound like a misnomer for miniburgers and dough-wrapped cocktail weenies. Not to Steve Jaeger, the innovative chef who has turned the table on conventional tapas with the collection of bold, international selections that crowd the menu at Tavern on the Lake.
The relaxed locale resides within one of Reston’s waterfront shopping plazas, offering patrons the choice of a breezy outdoor patio, a lively lounge set-up or a casual main dining room with floor to ceiling windows that peer out onto the tranquil lake. Once settled, guests face a new set of decisions from a menu stocked with intrepid tapas assembled from Asian, Latin American and European influences.
Chimichurri-soaked chicken brings roast poultry that snaps to attention when paired with the zesty Latin marinade. The duck carnitas (stellar starter) hoists tender, roast duck onto a tortilla capped with lettuce, tomatoes, onions and a piquant tequila cream sauce. Fried plantains get covered in sea salt and a zippy jalapeño-cream sauce (very good). A spicy-sweet cassoulet of stewed figs and diced chorizo awakens the senses. Stuffed yucca summons a starchy fritter filled with chicken and golden raisins (sweet as can be), all wading in a bright peach-mango salsa (powerful). Shredded duck takes another turn as the headliner atop a nest of dark noodles dripping with tantalizing hoisin sauce. Meanwhile, a bountiful Moroccan stew brimming with chick peas, potatoes, onions and tomatoes is a meatless marvel that smacks of fresh cinnamon, clove and anise.
BEST NEW Neighborhood Secret
Crescendo Bistro
32 Main St., Warrenton | 540-347-0550 | www.thecrescendobistro.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, and dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday
As the house-hunting masses continue their steady migration away from the overpriced inside-the-Beltway plots, so goes the local talent. That forced exodus has prompted some talented chefs to seek their fortunes in some of Virginia’s fastest growing rural communities. So it is that sleepy, historic Warrenton has become the beneficiary of the imaginative cuisine served by chef Rob Fleming and partner, Laura Hoffman, at Crescendo Bistro.
The two-story restaurant accomodates casual diners in an upstairs accented by blond wood, exposed brick walls and paper napkins spruced up with shiny silver napkin rings, while you get a much more romantic feel in a downstairs lair beset with linen tablecloths and a massive stone fireplace.
Assorted game and seafood selections make up the heart of the refined menu, but always pause to allow staff to tempt you with creative daily specials.
One such offering of homemade chili reveals a superlative stew of tender buffalo, onions, black beans and celery soaking in a tomato broth. All that’s missing is some shredded cheddar and a side of cornbread to make this a standalone stunner. Crackling fried shrimp are covered in Asian spices and served atop seaweed salad offset by dots of honey mustard. Flank steak rabiatta brings shaved beef tossed over angel hair punctuated by a fragrant sauce of sweet peppers, onions and chunky tomatoes (good, but the name suggests something a little spicier). Conversely, a flattened chicken breast perked up with Fontina, breadcrumbs and thinly sliced prosciutto always rises to the occasion.
BEST NEW Gourmet Playground
Bebo Trattoria
2250-B Crystal Dr., Alexandria | 703-412-5076 | www.bebotrattoria.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch
High flash for little cash at Bebo
Let’s hear it for asbestos! That’s right—I’m pro-shoddy construction materials. Otherwise, Roberto Donna might never have shuttered D.C.’s award-winning Galileo (under renovations until late 2007) or crossed the river to pursue his latest pet project, Bebo Trattoria.
Granted, the service could still use some fine-tuning. But that doesn’t seem to deter the parade of harried government workers who scarf down imaginative small plates at the bar or the longstanding acolytes who gladly come for an audience with the master.
A custom lardo plate delivers chewy homemade bacon, beef tartar (zapped with lemon and olive oil and dusted with fresh pepper and sea salt) and fresh veal sausage (a fatty delight). The piatti unico brings a four-course feast of milky mozzarella propped atop a plump tomato slice, a jumbo meatball steeped in marinara, a noodle roll stuffed with a ricotta-ham-pork ragu (delicious) and an alcohol-soaked shot of creamy chocolate surrounded by crème anglaise (perfect bookend to this Hungry-Man-esque meal). Croquettes of battered bunny are mixed with deep-fried artichokes and scallions (imagine a savory funnel cake) and are accompanied by a pungent citrus mayo. Meanwhile, a dinosaur egg of a meringue envelops dark chocolate ice cream and crystalline mascarpone within a whipped sugar shell afloat in a lake of hazelnut cream (brilliant closer).
BEST NEW Greek Homecoming
Vaso’s Kitchen
1225 Powhatan St., Alexandria | 703-548-2747
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; breakfast on weekends
Vaso's mountainous moussaka
Nothing is more humbling to a food critic than being told to clean your plate by a watchful restaurant owner. Not that much goading is required to polish off the tasty morsels prepared at Vaso’s Kitchen.
Owner Vasiliki “Vaso” Volioti often greets customers at the door—unless she’s off chasing her cherubic granddaughter, Maria, through the homey restaurant. When she’s not occupied with grandmotherly duties, Volioti splits her time between cooking, serving and chastising customers for neglecting their salads or the fresh vegetables of the day. The playful cajoling works both ways, as evidenced by one lunch patron who pops his head into the kitchen and affectionately shouts, “thanks, mom” before departing.
Although hidden deep in Del Ray, those who have stumbled in quickly find their way back for more home-style Mediterranean favorites.
Red peppers, tomatoes and feta are ground into a marvelously zesty hummus. The house gyro—which Volioti proudly proclaims “the best in the area”—is chock full of savory lamb, crumbled feta and diced tomatoes (top notch). The “Athenian” chicken brings an herb-rubbed bird that is juicy to the core (buttery chicken slides off the bone). A plate of baked moussaka summons a bulging square of seasoned beef, julienne potatoes and roasted eggplant covered with an inch-thick fluff of baked béchamel cream (outstanding).
BEST NEW Afghani Charmer
Bamian
5634 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church | 703-820-7880
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily
Forget Armani. Meet dressy Afghani at Bamian
Cultural adaptation is one of the things that make covering the restaurant industry so very interesting. Hence the reason I’m so smitten with Bamian, a new addition to the Bailey’s Crossroads corridor that takes Persian favorites like char-grilled kabobs and homemade yogurt dishes and adds white-tablecloth treatment.
An otherwise plain-Jane exterior betrays luxe touches like a fashionable antechamber adorned with plush chairs and a display of traditional Afghani jewelry. The upscale dining room boasts plenty of space and modern amenities (minichandeliers illuminate from all around, while a bank of semi-private booths provides insta-intimacy). Open tables are not hard to find, but solo diners or small parties may wish they could join the larger groups of Middle Eastern diners that frequently gather to commune, share plates and while away the evening.
The menu includes nearly a dozen kabob standards (beef, lamb, chicken, salmon), but its true strength lies in the more high-brow offerings. A plate of sambosay goshti yields crispy triangles filled with ground beef and herbs (reminiscent of Middle Eastern empanadas). The more polished mantu platter summons homemade dumplings smothered in yogurt, meat sauce and snippets of fresh mint. The bountiful chef carrayee produces the Afghani answer to stir-fry, delivering a stew of sautéed chicken, spinach, onions, peppers and tomatoes accompanied by a zesty herb sauce and a basket of warm flat bread. The more subtle but no less pleasing palau buries tender lamb cubes beneath a mountain of saffron rice crowned with a robust meat stew.
BEST NEW Artful Asian
Hoang’s Grill & Sushi Bar
502 W. Broad St., #5, Falls Church | 703-536-7777 | www.hoangcuisine.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily
Well-made sushi is supposed to be at least as aesthetically pleasing as it is appetizing. Sadly, some slapdash sushi operations roll out suspect combinations of inferior ingredients in the hopes that uninitiated Westerners will be none the wiser. Pray that they are never visited by those privy to the culinary stylings of Hoang’s talented chefs, lest the fakers be forced to consider falling on their decorative samurai swords.
A family-run enterprise that previously prospered in both Florida and Baltimore, the Hoang clan is hoping their nascent Falls Church outpost will be as well received as the earlier ventures. To that end, you can often find the elder Hoang behind the attractive sushi bar hand-rolling individual orders while his dedicated progeny tend to the everyday business operations of the restaurant.
The L-shaped dining room packs plenty of flash, showcasing multi-colored stones along one wall, flowing bamboo ornaments overhead, vibrant silk kimonos prominently displayed in the main dining room and painted soy sauce dispensers placed at every table. Of course, the real fireworks come courtesy of the kitchen.
Tuna tataki summons an eye-catching collection of raw tuna rolled in black and white sesame seeds, topped with spicy mayonnaise and salmon roe, bundled together with shaved cucumber and then surrounded by a soy-based sauce (a grandiose dish). An octopus sashimi produces a thick slice of coppery cephalopod, while a selection of fresh conch is a chewy delight. Likewise, the aptly named “rock ‘n roll” yields terrific rounds of salmon, eel and avocado carefully wrapped in crunch-inducing breadcrumbs.
BEST NEW Vegetarian Surplus
Saravana Palace
11725 Lee Highway, #A15, Fairfax | 703-218-4182 | www.saravanapalaceva.com
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily
Adhering to a strict vegetarian regimen may sound like a death sentence to those who treasure dining variety. Good thing the creative forces behind the meatless stronghold that is Saravana Palace are always at the ready with a tasteful reprieve.
Parked right in the middle of a budding Fairfax shopping strip, this Indian powerhouse has garnered a dedicated following among the local Indian community—probably about 90 percent of the regular clientele—and curious Westerners alike. The meager décor (just a few tapestries featuring traditional Hindu icons on the walls) would likely benefit from an aesthetic makeover, but it’s still easy enough to get comfortable in the roomy booths and large circular tables in the main dining room.
But don’t let the austere layout fool you. The options are many and the flavors free-flowing on the voluminous menu.
A vibrant tomato sauce turns regular rice into pumpkin-colored grains spiked with fragrant herbs and just the right amount of heat. Curry-soaked squash patties, better known as long squash kafta, come stewed in sweat-inducing spices. The simple yet savory beet porial summons a tart salad of diced beets and shredded peppers. A fork-bending mass of sautéed potatoes and green beans makes you forget that you are actually eating healthy. Gargantuan dosas (traditional rice crêpes) envelope everything from a spiced potato and onion paste to searing homemade chutneys. Those in search of more filling fare should make sure to try the chili paneer, a fabulous blend of tomatoes, onions and fried cheese, sautéed in rich curry.
(March 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, November 26th, 2008
Neighborhood Touchstones Where Patrons Feel the Love—Every Day of the Year
By Warren Rojas | Photography by Jonathan Timmes
Running your own restaurant really is a labor of love.
Countless hours spent hustling in the kitchen are often followed by marathon sessions of serving guests, sweeping floors and setting up to do it all over again—a punishing schedule that in no way guarantees success. Most restaurateurs just hope those precious first customers are so impressed they’ll bring friends, who in turn will bring others, until a built-in constituency develops that keeps the seats filled nightly.
The family-owned establishments herein have forged just such a bond, evolving from local eateries to community landmarks celebrating nearly 25 years (or longer) of service. So, whether you visit this Valentine’s Day or pop in some other night, our guess is these restaurants would love to have you.
La Petite Auberge
311 William St., Fredericksburg | 540-371-2727
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.
A beef and béarnaise treat at La Petite
The name suggests a quaint country inn. But as devoted Fredericksburg patrons can attest, La Petite Auberge is an oversized treasure that spoils guests with big French flavors for very little coin.
A narrow hallway leads you to the two main seating areas: a bohemian bar area replete with novelty license plates, twinkling Christmas lights, red-checked table cloths and psychedelic Beatles portraits (looks very French Quarter) or a faux courtyard outfitted with ornamental lanterns, decorative white-picket fencing and a blue and white cottage that houses the kitchen. What’s even more attractive than the aesthetic touches are the comfortable prices—a variety of dishes, including several of the dozen or so daily specials and a handful of house favorites, remain in the low teens—an all-inclusive accoutrement that has helped owners Christian and Debbie Renault develop a loyal following amidst everyone from affluent pensioners to cash-strapped college kids.
A Mediterranean-style salad reveals an aromatic blend of tomatoes, onions and feta, drizzled with olive oil and herbs. Sautéed skate wings (delicious) soar to new heights after spending some time with butter and capers. An order of beef medallions Georgetown summons a set of terrific steak rounds (the velvety meat dissolves on your tongue) stacked atop English muffins and covered in a lemony béarnaise mixed with sliced mushrooms. Fancy French gives way to simple Creole in a tidy arrangement featuring fiery Andouille sausage links (C’est ce bon!) smothered with caramelized onions and accompanied by neat piles of white rice and black beans. After dinner, a Marquis cake layered with alternating bands of light and dark chocolate mousse encased in chocolate ganache keeps the bons temps rolling well past the time you are presented with the ridiculously modest check.
The Green Tree
15 S. King St., Leesburg | 703-777-7246 | www.leesburgcolonialinn.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch
There’s only so much you can learn about colonial America from musty journals or stuffy museum displays. Visitors to historic Leesburg, on the other hand, can enjoy a unique peek into the fuel that kept the Founding Fathers going as they forged a new nation by dining on the exclusively 18th century fare prepared at The Green Tree.
The antiquated locale is the centerpiece of owner Fabian Saeidi’s historical restaurant holdings, a network of establishments which includes the Ball’s Bluff and Kings Court taverns, Bella Luna Ristorante and the Georgetown Café. The Green Tree most closely resembles an early American lodging house, a look perfected by the likes of a rustic dining area where burning wood crackles in the fireplace and molten wax collects on the silver candleholders at the center of every table.
The carefully reconstructed menu is culled from colonial-era recipes and cookbooks, which means game and fresh fruit offerings figure prominently. But this is by no means backwoods grub.
One crab-laden masterpiece yields fluffed crab folded into a thick, cream broth (akin to seafood chowder sans all the starchy filler). A shrimp-filled samosa stuffs the savory crustaceans into a flaky crust topped with sweet jelly. A bountiful rabbit fricassee brings multiple quarters of succulent rabbit (plenty of perfumed meat) bathed in a wine-tomato reduction, all heaped atop buttery egg noodles. And the aptly named “Robert’s delight” summons a slab of beef tenderloin rolled in garden herbs and smothered in a terrific sour cream-mushroom sauce.
Virginia wines are featured prominently here. But for a taste of revolutionary naughtiness, check out the slew of “ardent spirits” (the solemn sounding black oak brings a fishbowl full of whiskey, rum and assorted mixers, hot buttered rum adds an immediate glow to your cheeks) prepared at the bar.
Landini Brothers
115 King St., Alexandria | 703.836.8404 | www.landinibrothers.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily
In the food writing game, you expect to find restaurateurs who spend every waking hour overseeing the inner workings of their business, to the point that the restaurant becomes their second (if not primary) home. But when you stumble across committed owners like Franco and Piero Landini—a pair of old salts from Old Town Alexandria who often return to their self-titled restaurant during their prized, few off-hours to fraternize with friends and family—you just know there’s something special going on.
On any given night, you might catch Franco chomping on a cigar and chatting up old chums by the main bar. Or you may stumble upon Piero sharing a meal with his own family in a cave-like dining area with jagged rock walls and a slate floor. Cynics may view this type of self-serving patronage as some sort of public relations ploy. But those intimately familiar with the litany of meat and pasta specialties on the menu know that, much like themselves, the brothers can’t help coming back for more Northern Italian favorites.
A hot seafood salad evicts all the meddlesome noodles and fresh greens, focusing instead on loads of shrimp, scallops, calamari and baby octopus sautéed in a seductive garlic-herb sauce. East meets West in a carpaccio of pepper-crusted tuna steaks served with spicy soy dipping sauce, and accompanied by a white bean and avocado salad and grilled vegetables. The house scallopine brings thinly-pounded veal steaks zapped with lemon and then submerged in a lavish cheese sauce laced with sliced mushrooms and asparagus. Elsewhere, spinach-and-ricotta-filled moons of agnolotti are blanketed by a celestial butter-cream sauce (wonderfully satisfying).
Le Refuge
127 N. Washington St., Alexandria | 703.548.4661 | www.lerefugealexandria.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday
Stealing away for a meal at Le Refuge can leave you with the sensation of being the guest of honor at a heartfelt gathering at a cherished friend’s country cottage. Granted, a cottage overrun with party crashers beseeching the host for some attention of their own. But what’s wrong with a little competition, between friends?
This perennially popular French retreat holds less than two dozen, tightly-knit tables, yet crowds pour in nightly. A happy dilemma which keeps the Francois clan—including founder, Jean, his wife and partner, Francoise, and their daughter turned budding restaurateur, Anne Claire—busy as can be. The homey interior features serendipitous wall coverings ranging from a makeshift shrine to top notch Cognacs to vintage collections of French wine memorabilia.
Daily chalkboard specials (which include seasonal offerings like sautéed frog legs, coq au vin, or beef medallions prepared in béarnaise, bordelaise, and black pepper sauces (respectively) supplement a static menu stocked with French standards like salmon en crôute, baked escargot and beef Wellington.
A country pâté delivers a buttery mass of pressed liver paired with bright, mini pickles. Saucy crayfish tails are left swimming in bubbling garlic butter, a sinful broth that virtually begs to be sopped up with the crusty baguettes placed at every table. A savory cassoulet combining lamb, pork, duck and stewed white beans is a mammoth portion packed to the hilt with protein goodness. Roast pork medallions smothered in a homemade Roquefort sauce will have you praising the likes of penicillin-ridden cheese. The kitchen does just as well with seafood, offering up a deliciously light rainbow trout cooked in lemon and dressed with tender mushrooms and sliced almonds.
Peking Gourmet Inn
6029 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church | 703-671-8088 | www.pekinggourmet.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily
Peking duck
When a restaurant owner can lure District residents out to the Virginia suburbs for repeat visits, chances are pretty good they’ll have some staying power. When you can count the revolving residents of 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue as regulars, confidence is high that restaurant will flourish—just ask the wildly-successful Tsui clan, the hard-working proprietors of Culmore’s renowned Peking Gourmet Inn.
Founder Eddie Lun Kwai Tsui opened his Szechuan-style eatery with a plan to make his tender, roast Peking duck the toast of the town. Almost 30 years later, his children, Robert (general manager) and George (head chef), continue a proud tradition that has attracted every sitting president dating back to the George H.W. Bush administration. Virtually every wall is plastered with candid snapshots of staff posing with local politicos, visiting dignitaries and all manner of celebrity followers, while the ornamental lanterns and smiling golden dragons found in the main dining room pay homage to the family’s Asian roots. And in a stroke of marketing genius, tiny ducks parade suggestively above everyone’s head along a border that stretches across the entire dining room.
Without question, get the duck. The signature bird is prepared tableside by a master carver who removes every morsel of the moist and meaty mallard with surgical precision. The gourmet duck experience includes steamed pancakes, giant spring onions plucked from the family’s Purcellville-based Grass Roots Farm (supplier of many of the house vegetables), and a side of fried rice speckled with onions and peas.
The slightly smaller but no less tempting Peking spring chicken is a spice-rubbed Cornish hen burnished with Oriental seasonings (fresh ginger jumps out at you). Fluffy, sesame shrimp cakes get wrapped in a buttery crust and served with a sweet, homemade garlic sauce. The so-called “Szechuan beef proper” summons sour-sweet strips of crispy beef studded with sesame seeds and dressed with shredded spring onions and carrots. Meanwhile, the spring onions play companion to marinated lamb that is sliced thin and splashed with just the right amount of soy sauce.
Taverna Cretekou
818 King St., Alexandria | 703-548-8688 | www.tavernacretekou.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Sunday; closed Monday
The Taverna’s sirloin-packed dolmades will leave you stuffed
Be it a sweltering summer afternoon or the chilliest of winter nights, longstanding Taverna patrons know they’ll always receive a warm welcome from omnipresent owner (and one-time maitre d’ at this beloved Greek establishment) Christos Papaloizou, and his wife/business partner, Denise.
The deceptively cavernous interior is a maze of whitewashed walls and none-too-subtle blue and white tablecloths on one level, whereas colorful frescos of seafood-bearing fishermen adorn a separate expanse that plays host to live music. Meanwhile, a sun-drenched patio is prime real estate during warmer months. Savvy regulars often opt for spots beside the impromptu stage/dance floor when forced inside—all the easier to join the spirited folk dancing circles that seem to spring up at a moment’s notice.
Regardless of where you land, expect to see the Papaloizous bouncing about tirelessly—visiting with neighborhood friends, assisting staff with food orders, or tackling whatever job needs doing next. Servers often appear quite harried, but are never too busy to answer questions about their native cuisine or any of the host of daily specials.
A platter of buttery spanakopita yields flaky pastries brimming with warm, sautéed spinach. Homemade pastitsio summons a heartwarming stack of ground beef and baked ziti enveloped by béchamel cream. Savory ground sirloin-and-rice stuffed grape leaves are doused with a creamy chicken-citrus-rice soup (the traditional avogolemeno). The always satisfying soudsoukakia delivers columns of ground beef steeped in a fabulous cumin-tomato broth. On another night, the top honors were claimed by a slow-roasted lamb shank that is literally soaked through to the proverbial bone by a special lemon-basil sauce.
First time guests should make sure to pay their respects on the way out the door. Return visitors are unlikely to have any real choice, considering almost nobody leaves without receiving at least a forceful handshake from Christos. Longstanding patrons, on the other hand, often wait their turn for a warm hug.
Kilroy’s
5250-A Port Royal Rd., Springfield | 703-321-7733 | www.kilroys.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch
Kilroy’s chops hit the spot
Some might mistake the strip mall address or the thunderous roar from within as frightful omens of just another boorish sports bar. But Kilroy’s co-owners Philip and Steven Thomas have instead cultivated a cherished meeting place imbued with an indelible sense of community.
The expansive bar area—a man’s playground boasting over two dozen TVs tuned to every sporting event imaginable—is usually teeming with some local group or another (off-duty firemen, celebratory softball teams, video trivia junkies) on most nights. In keeping with the historical “Kilroy was here” motif, the main dining area is plastered in vintage World War II memorabilia.
Luckily, the food is much fresher than the décor.
A basket of oven-fresh, sweet corn biscuits served with honey butter only stokes the appetite. Signature quesadilla roll-ups are superbly spicy cylinders stuffed with beans, chilies and cheese that have been fried to a crisp; cool down these first-rate firecrackers with some sour cream or add gusto with the house salsa. Mini lobster tails are deep-fried and served with a spicy-sweet chili concoction definitely worth a dunk.
Tender, teriyaki-infused pork chops get decorated with sunny, grilled pineapple rings that offer a splash of sweet to the meat, while a side of home-style mashed potatoes and gravy provides the right amount of savory. Southwestern chicken pasta heaps seared chicken strips atop Alfredo-covered penne crowned with black beans and diced tomatoes (great combination). And whether this is your first date or your 4,000th outing, your partner’s heart will melt with the arrival of the make-your-own s’mores dessert—a domesticated campfire treat that includes your own billowing flame, a still-wrapped Hershey’s chocolate bar, numerous marshmallows and a stack of graham crackers. Just make sure to call ahead, because sometimes there’s no more s’mores to be had late in the evening.
Napoleon’s
67 Waterloo St., Warrenton | 540-347-1200 | www.napoleonsrestaurant.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily
The name is French, the feel is rustic American and the far-reaching menu ties together flavors from the four corners of the earth. What may sound like a trendy, cosmopolitan eatery is in fact a fixture of historic Warrenton—the well-worn but very much beloved, Napoleon’s.
Guests at the stately looking structure have their choice of several seating options, including a homey “tavern” bedecked with hardwood floors and polished booths, the tree-lined garden patio or an open dining room kept toasty by a real, wood-burning fireplace. And while the faded Tiffany lamps and split cushions in the tavern booths betray the restaurant’s true age, the smiles on regulars’ faces lets you know they’re willing to forgive a few flaws, and so should you.
Since acquiring the restaurant this past May, first-time restaurateur Brij Sing and his brother-in-law/business partner Syed I. Hussain have put their stamp on the well-known restaurant—which Sing proudly calls an “institution in Warrenton”—while retaining certain local favorites. They brought back popular chef Kurt Uhrig, launched a separate steakhouse upstairs (with plans to add an adjoining cigar bar as things progress) and revamped the overall menu to include more international fare.
A cheese board intersperses nuggets of crumbly blue Stilton, mellow chunks of baby Swiss, a creamy goat cheese and a wedge of softened Brie capped with ground, sun-dried tomatoes with sliced apples, fresh raspberries, a diced pepper salad and a piping hot roll. The treasured she-crab soup reveals a hearty blend of shredded crab, chives, celery and enough Sherry to qualify as a cocktail (warms you to the core). A surprisingly authentic “taste of Seoul” platter brings Korean-style sliced ribeye steak accompanied by some fiery kimchee (pickled cabbage) and a mound of sticky rice. An equally enticing Germanic creation summons an inches-thick pork chop hoisted atop a bed of sauerkraut, topped with country gravy and partnered with grilled kielbasa, all shoehorned into a mini cast-iron skillet.
(February 2007)