Posts Tagged ‘gourmet’
Wine Kitchen to Cross the River
Posted by Warren Rojas / Thursday, June 23rd, 2011
Wine Kitchen co-founder Jason Miller is exporting his award-winning brand to Frederick this fall–and he’s tapped a VOLT vet to help him do so.
Miller didn’t have much by way of design specifics, hinting only that the sister restaurant to his original wine bar/bistro in Leesburg would take up residence in “downtown Frederick” later this year.
But he did share that the kitchen will be helmed by VOLT alumnus Adam Harvey.
“We are very excited to have him [Adam] join us in our new venture,” he said of the well-seasoned new hire.
Miller suggested that the Frederick shop–”It is an up and coming food and wine destination that already has some really great restaurants. We hope to join the scene there and offer something unique to the area,” he said of the northern expansion–would likely adhere to the same small plates and artisan winemakers model, but with totally fresh and different interpretations.
VOLT chef/founder Bryan Voltaggio, who is in the process of doing a little empire building of his own in historic Frederick, sounded genuinely excited about the potential competition.
“I welcome that fact that he’s going to be my neighbor,” Voltaggio said, offering nothing but praise for Harvey, a constant presence in the VOLT kitchen from August 2008 till earlier this spring (Harvey’s younger brother, Evan, is still at VOLT). “I congratulate him on commanding a new kitchen.”
A Frederick native, Voltaggio seems pleased by the hospitality boom he’s helped usher into his hometown. “We’re not popping up restaurants overnight here in Frederick. But we are opening new ones rather than closing’em,” he posited.
But he also held out hope that other restaurateurs might still come, and that greater dining diversity would eventually follow.
“I think I always knew the people here were looking for more choices,” Voltaggio suggested.
Miller couldn’t agree more.
That’s why Leesburg’s Wine Kitchen is prepping a new lunch menu–poised to debut next month–tentatively set to offer gourmet updates ranging from a reimagined Cobb salad, to local sirloin-laden steak and cheeses to tuna burger BLTS.
“The lunch menu will be seasonal and rotate throughout the year,” Miller pledged.
–Warren
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, October 22nd, 2010
(Image: The Next Web)
Allow me to apologize for being so stingy with the #FollowFriday love of late, but the reality is I just plain suck. And not in the endearing, self-deprecating sense of the term–I’m saying yours truly is a terrible social mediazen who puts his own wants (an hour to myself would be nice) and needs (single malt whiskey, the peatier the better) ahead of those of the Twitterverse/blogosphere.
These folks, on the other hand, continue to feed the inexhaustible infotainment machine, spouting wit and wisdom the likes of which I’ll never know.
Put your hands together for:
* Career comfort seeker Ann Patchett (via @Barry_Estabrook) for the posthumous peek at the inner workings of Gourmet;
* Restaurateur Mark Pastore (via @insidescoopsf) for peeling back the curtain on @OpenTable ‘s cut of the res’y action;
* Fringe police @FairFoodFight for alerting us that the teapartiers won’t want for snacks during the end of days;
* @PriceChopperNY (via @Relevanttrafik) for illustrating how easily virtual assaults can erupt into real headaches;
* @RepShimkus (via @ESQPolitics) for reminding us of the irresistibility of soda and candy;
* The technopologists @flowtown (via @EatingOurWords) for identifying the father of food geekdom;
* Cookstructionist Marina Ekroos (via @SAVEURMAG) for educating as she eats;
* Street food stickler Jessica Strelitz (@jstrelitz) for putting her foot down–or up someone’s ass, as the case may be–when confronted with curd confusion; and,
* Tinseltown sweetheart Kristen Bell (@IMKristenBell) for revealing how even the biggest stars can be humbled by craft services.
Truly eye-opening stuff served up by some real industry players. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed looking over your collective shoulders.
Brace Yourself for Pupatella 2.0
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, May 12th, 2010
Any newcomer to NoVA might just assume that we’ve always had a fleet of Twitter-powered, gourmet food vendors at our beck and call.
Think again, stranger.
Just a few short years ago mobile dining options were frighteningly scarce here in the suburbs (save, perhaps, for the roving taco and sandwich trucks that have long kept construction workers fat and happy). And the on-the-go sustenance you did encounter was more often than not either prepackaged pabulum or hastily prepared slop.
The landscape changed dramatically after culinary school grads cum gastropreneurs Enzo Algarme and Anastasiya Laufenberg rolled their Neapolitan pizza cart into Ballston in fall 2007.
Word of their traditional-style Margherita–think: olive oil-brushed dough smeared with a chunky, San Marzano-based sauce (flush with acid and tang), giant ovals of milky buffalo mozzarella and freshly torn basil, all spot-baked to a bubbling, crunchy brown–and their high-end toppings (locally sourced cheeses, homemade salumi) soon spread like wildfire.
(Image: Andromeda Drive)
The introduction of stuffed-till-bulging arancini and freshly-dipped donuts secured cult status for the pie-slinging pair in near-record time.
The duo now stands poised to unveil their first brick-and-mortar restaurant–”We’ll be open by next weekend,” Laufenberg said (final inspections are set for early next week)–just north of N. George Mason Drive.
Although the roomier digs have certainly paved the way additional goodies, Laufenberg insists the pair remains committed to their original vision:
“It is not the same pizza that we serve at our food cart.
It is of much higher quality, made in the best wood-fired pizza oven in [the] world (built in Naples from volcanic ash from mount Vesuvius),” Laufenberg said of their next generation pies. “We will also have other things that are traditional to the Neapolitan region, such as arancini (fried risotto balls, stuffed with meat, peas and mozzarella), fried stuffed calzone, panuozzo (a cross between a sandwich and a pizza, made with pizza crust split in the middle and topped with meats and vegetables).”
Updates include: the build-your-own-pizza option (including seven free toppings), a full complement of artisanal gelatos produced by fellow Naples native Gianluigi Dellacio, a wide variety of Italian wines, beers and sodas (Image: Pupatella)
–sourced predominantly from the Campagna region of Southern Italy–and made-to-order espresso embellished with freshly ground hazelnuts.
According to Laufenberg, the plan is to open (at least for the first few months) for lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Saturday. Ultimately, the duo plan to tack on a breakfast shift and transition into an everyday operation.
And what of the famous, fire engine-red cart?
“We don’t have a definite plan for the cart,” Laufenberg shared, estimating that they’ll probably put it in mothballs, at least temporarily, while they get their bearings at the shop.
She suggested, however, that the cart would be out and about in Ballston this week (Wednesday through Friday) and next.
Pupatella: 5100-C Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 571-243-2952; www.pupatella.com
–Warren
New Toque Adds Mystique to Cheesetique
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 21st, 2009
Cheesemonger Jill Erber is thrilled with all the culinary embellishments chef Joshua Andrus has wrought–a roster which, to date, has included homemade soups, assorted quiches and gourmet flat breads–since assuming control of the Cheesetique kitchen in late October.
But she is most excited about what he’s pledged to add to the carte later this winter: house-cured charcuterie.
“It’s really more about finding the time to fit that in as well,” Erber said of the plan to add signature pates, terrines and aged meats to the wine and cheese shop’s snacking arsenal.
Andrus, an alumnus of D.C.’s fabled minibar, has certainly beefed up the wine bar’s offerings. But Erber insists the focus will always be on “approachable” cuisine.
“We’re not here to truffle people to death,” she stressed.
–Warren
Local Sixfortyseven a Finalist in GMA’s ‘Best Food Carts’
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, November 16th, 2009
Locavorism evangelists Derek and Amanda Luhowiak have lured plenty of Northern Virginians over to the “eat-whats-around-you” camp from the comfort of their mobile kitchen, local sixfortyseven.
But they’ll take their message nationwide Saturday, November 21 when they appear as one of the four finalists in Good Morning America Weekend’s “Best Food Carts Challenge.”
Derek Luhowiak confirmed that a GMA camera crew had shadowed them late Friday afternoon whilst cooking at Barrel Oak Winery.
Luhowiak claims not to know what other mobile vendors are in the running (at press time, GMA had not returned emails soliciting details about the final four food carts), insisting that he’s most interested in spreading the word about eating local.
“I do not really consider anybody ‘competition’ because I feel we won already just [by being] nominated and … getting local Virginia food the recognition it deserves,” he said.
In order to drive that message home, Luhowiak said he presented the GMA advance team with his signature burger–a “50-miles-or-less” creation featuring all natural Piedmontese meat from Angelic Beef (Fauquier County), Monterey Jack from Windmill Meadows Farm (Hagerstown, Md.), an artisan bun produced by a local baker, pickles and lettuce from the Luhowiaks’ garden and homemade condiments.
According to Luhowiak, the local sixfortyseven segment should air during the second half hour of GMA’s Saturday broadcast. Contestants will receive a rating from the GMA hosts/guest judges (worth 50 percent of the final score), followed by a period of online voting by the public (the final 50 percent of the scoring process).
At press time, it remained unclear who had actually nominated the Luhowiak’s for the competition (the winning contributor receives round trip tickets to NYC and dinner for two at the restaurant of their choosing).
Given his druthers, Luhowiak said he’d beeline for his buddy’s brand new meat carnival.
“I want to visit an old friend who just opened [SLATED TO OPEN TODAY, IN FACT] a butcher shop called The Meat Hook in Brooklyn to eat some charcuterie!” he proclaimed. Love the pig!”
–Warren
Pork Nuts Swoon for Acorn-Fed Ham
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, July 27th, 2009
Epicurean cheerleader José Andrés is giving local diners something new to celebrate: the arrival of genuine jamon Ibérico de bellota.
(Image: Thomas Schauer)
The highly revered pork–valued so because of the intense marbling and inherent nuttiness of the meat (these pigs dine almost exclusively on fallen acorns, mushrooms and wild herbs during the last few months of life)–has never before been available here in the U.S.
Starting today, cured ham enthusiasts will be able to sample this sought-after swine at Jaleo and Wagshal’s market.
According to a ThinkFoodGroup spokesperson, the specialty ham will be woven into a featured Jaleo dish every day “until the supply runs out.” Planned offerings include roasted pork loin with apples ($16) and a pork rib paella ($48).
The TFG source noted that Wagshal’s was only able to secure a limited supply for this initial order–but all the parties involved expect public demand will keep the iberico stream flowing into the foreseeable future.
“When [the] next order comes in [scheduled for this December], we’ll get more and then we’ll pick back up,” the TFG aide projected.
–Warren
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, June 1st, 2009
The epicurean giveaways continue here at NoVA.
This time, we’re offering up a copy of Anne Mendelson’s scholarly “Milk: The Surprising Story of Milk Through the Ages.”
(Image: Knopf)
All you have to do is share where you pick up your must-have dairy products–be they artisan cheeses, farm-fresh milk or probiotic yogurts–in the comments section below.
We’ll randomly choose a winner from all the posted comments Friday, June 5 at noon.
–Warren
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, May 6th, 2009
Those who didn’t make the trek up to NYC this past weekend for the annual James Beard gala, didn’t miss much in terms of hometown love: all our local culinary champions were shut out come awards time.
But that doesn’t mean we weren’t well represented on the cooking front.
Plenty of folks greedily supped chef Ris Lacoste’s crunchy-rich oyster champagne stew (a heartwarming helping of fried oysters, diced ham, crushed walnuts and zesty chives):
And chefs Jamie Leeds and Antonio Burrell most certainly stunned a few palates with their daring swiss chard-stuffed trout rolls (the pickled fish made for fierce eating).
Meanwhile, we enjoyed watching chef Debbie Gold tend to her marrow and mustard crouton creation (the extravagant offal was coaxed from some 200+ pounds of bones):
But one cannot live on delicacies alone.
Tom Colicchio, for example, made sure to stay cool with a minty fresh Grey Goose cocktail that had plenty of fellow party goers in high spirits:
And protocol queen Martha Stewart let her hair down just a bit as she washed down a D’Artagnan duck dog (slightly gamey, but mostly satisfying) with a frosty Hoegaarden (cheers, Martha!):
Restaurant folks sure know how to party…
–Warren
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, April 15th, 2009
Sustainable dining fans can get their fill of grassroots grazing this Labor Day when the Outstanding in the Field folks take over Ayrshire Farm for a trio of guest chef-driven dining extravaganzas.
(Photo: Outstanding in the Field)
The gallivanting gourmets have tapped local toques Anthony Chittum, Bryan Moscatello and Rob Townsend to lead guests on culinary treks across the NoVA landscape. Each chef will be expected to tap into their network of local produce suppliers, protein wranglers and grape growers to orchestrate regionally expressive meals of their own making.
A Neighborhood Restaurant Group spokesperson said chef Chittum is still mulling his menu options, but stressed that the seasoned OitF leader–Chittum hosted a dinner with the group last year down in the Northern Neck–is looking forward to showcasing some of his favorite farms and getting better acquainted with the full range of Ayrshire Farm products (“That is a new relationship for us,” the NRG aide said).
Tickets for each night run $189 per person, with seating expected to be capped at 120 seats per evening.
According to an OitF organizer there are just over a dozen tickets left for Townsend’s dinner (Saturday, September 5 at 3 p.m.), around 30 slots for Chittum’s dinner (Sunday, September 6 at 3 p.m.) and an undertermined number of seats available for Moscatello’s dinner (Monday, September 7 at 3 p.m.).
–Warren Rojas
Living the American Dream at La Fromagerie
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, April 13th, 2009
According to nascent entrepreneur Sebastien Tavel, things at his new Old Town Alexandria gourmet shop, La Fromagerie, are going pretty well.
A Rhone Valley-transplant with decades of professional cooking experience, Tavel
threw open the doors to his modest cheese/wine/charcuterie shop just a few weeks back. But he swears the foot traffic is already on the uptick thanks to early repeat customers and positive word-of-mouth.
Tavel hopes to foster the spread of both brand-affirming phenomena by ramping up his wine holdings (currently keeps a few dozen moderately priced bottles on hand) and hosting cheese tastings/dining demos once he’s able to carve out a dedicated tasting nook.
In the meantime, patrons can avail themselves of all manner of dairy deliciousness, including:
organic yogurt from Old Chatham Sheepherding Company, hand-crafted crott from Brad Parker’s Pipe Dreams Farm in Pennsylvania, herbs de provence-spiked goat cheese from CaroMont Farm, applewood-smoked mozzarella from Leesburg’s Blue Ridge Dairy or whole milk from Trickling Springs Creamery.
If cheese seems like mere gastronomic foreplay to you, feel free to get hot and heavy with Tavel’s other savory selections, including:
organic pork jowls from La Quercia, Virginia country ham and hickory-smoked bacon from the pork-loving Edwards clan, spicy plum or erhubarab chutney from the Virginia Chutney Company.
Or pick up a can of Mary Tavel’s (nee Powell)–she’s the cheery blond bouncing around the shop with the infectious grin–family’s “blister-fried” peanuts.
Though it’s probably easier for local shoppers to reconcile supporting a French-run business (just don’t tell GOP-firebrand Bob Ney) than it is to endorse North Carolina-grown nuts here in the Old Dominion.
–Warren Rojas
