Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, July 28th, 2010
The first family of hospitality crowd-sourcing, Nina and Tim Zagat, have released the results of their 2011 Washington D.C./Baltimore survey, an all-too-familiar litany–the Inn at Little Washington continues its decade-long streak of ping-ponging back and forth between the #1 and #2 spots for food; Restaurant Eve remains firmly entrenched in the food top 10–which I highly doubt will surprise any fine dining aficionados or even casual gourmands.
I was, however, interested to see how the D.C./Charm City surveyors stack up against other markets and how often they hit the streets in search of a good meal.
According to Zagat’s, there are roughly 6,500 surveyors actively evaluating 2,400 meals per day across the D.C./Baltimore corridor. While that sounds like a whole lot of eating, our area ranks second-to-last in surveyor meals per week (2.6).
Texans, on the other hand, have gorged themselves into four of the top five spots (Houston – 4 meals per week, Austin/Hill Country – 3.8, Dallas/Forth Worth – 3.6, San Antonio – 3.5).
The economy, of course, is partly to blame.
Approximately 40 percent of local surveyors admitted to eating out less because of forced belt-tightening, while another third of those surveyed copped to more carefully eyeing menu prices when they do step out.
On the upside, over half of the surveyors said lean times have prompted restaurants to beef up their dining deals while approaching 45 percent said the downturn has rekindled a passion for home cooking.
Amateur food sleuths might also be interested to know that Zagat’s stable of local food spies skews female (51 percent) and relies heavily on retirees (60+ year olds comprise 25 percent of their core constituency)–though Gen Xers (30-year olds) and late Boomers (50s and up) account for 23 and 22 percent (respectively) of the roving reporting crew.
Rankings-wise, NoVA restaurants seemed to do pretty well.
We claimed six of the top 20 food slots:
* Inn at Little Washington (2)
* Restaurant Eve (7)
* L’Auberge Provencale (10)
* L’Auberge Chez Francois (15)
* 2941 (16)
* GoolDaeGee (19)
Seven of the top 24 cuisine categories:
* New American: Inn at Little Washington
* Chinese: Peking Gourmet
* Classic French: L’Auberge Provencale
* South American: El Pollo Rico
* Southwest/Tex-Mex: Sweetwater Tavern
* Thai: Thai Square
* Vietnamese: Four Sisters
And scored a handful of entries in the 20 “Key Newcomers” list:
Would love to hear what you all think of the current crop of popularly appointed dining champs AND/OR the Zagat’s scouts among us.
–Warren
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, May 19th, 2010

Never mind holding out hope for any kind of economic turnaround.
Alexandria restaurant folks have recently been forced to recover signature items that have taken to wandering off.
The latest business owner waylaid by sticky fingers is BGR founder Mark Bucher, whose double-sided burger placard (usually parked right at the corner of King and North Washington Streets) vanished late Monday night.
Though Bucher is clearing having fun with his cyber-dragnet, Jackson 20 executive chef Dennis Marron was obviously distressed after learning that late-night revelers had shoved restaurant mascot “Bessie” into a cab and sped off into the darkness about a month ago.
Luckily for Marron (and all the Bessie lovers out there), the iconic pig was returned the following morning–presumably after the offending party sobered up/figured out the bronze figurine wouldn’t net him one thin dime on Cash4Gold.
–Warren
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, April 28th, 2010

Well, another Earth Day has come and gone.
Eco-poseurs: feel free to pack up your blatantly exploitative business practices/faux conservationist concerns for the next 364 days.
Everyone else: enjoy the year-round spoils of environmental awareness at Open Kitchen’s Bistro.
Though their recycling-friendly discounts–5 percent off any order for customers who use “green” transportation (walking/biking/skating/driving a hybrid/utilizing public transportation) and/or 5 percent off for bringing in your own reusable containers (coffee mugs/carryout packaging)–have been firmly in place since opening, service manager Holly Camalier said they’re still working on getting the word out to activist guests.
The green discounts are good at lunch or dinner. And guests who participate in both activities (transport and self-recycling) are eligible for a cumulative 10 percent discount.
Meanwhile, Camalier continues searching for innovative ways to reduce Open Kitchen’s highly scrutinized carbon footprint, an in-house obsession that already includes:
* Recycling all possible materials (glass, plastic, paper and cardboard);
* Using corn-based or fully compostable materials;
* Contributing cooking grease for reuse as biofuel; and,
* Sending used coffee grounds to a Virginia Tech professor developing new, high energy fuel logs.
“It’s hard to keep a restaurant green. But we do what we can,” Camalier said.
–Warren
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, March 10th, 2010

Not to be outdone by the now near-constant flood of event dining opportunities, local vintners hope to take center stage during Virginia Wine Week (3/22 – 3/28).
Participating restaurants/retailers are obliged to feature at least three Virginia wines by the glass.
But many hospitality purveyors we’ve spoken to are taking the opportunity to trot out a bevy of regional pours, including:
* Capital Ale House: plan to offer Afton Mountain Vineyards Gewurztraminer (bottle only), Autumn Hill Vineyard Chardonnay ($6.95), Autumn Hill Cabernet Franc Vineyard ($7.95), 2005 Blenheim Vineyards Meritage ($8.95), Blenheim Star Chardonnay ($10.95), Burnley Vineyards Riesling ($8.95) and Green Springs Winery Sweet Rose ($6.95).
* The Dock at Lansdowne: plan to offer 2008 Horton Vineyard Viognier ($8), 2006 Barboursville Vineyards Cabernet Franc ($8), 2007 Breaux Vineyards Chere Marie ($8), Breaux Equation Merlot ($8) and 2006 Prince Michel Chardonnay ($8).
* The Majestic: plan to offer Thibaut-Janisson Blanc de Chardonnay ($18), Pollak Vineyards Cabernet Franc ($13.50), Pollak Chardonnay ($11), Boxwood Winery Boxwood blend ($14) and a wine flight ($18) featuring Thibaut-Janisson, Boxwood and White Hall Vineyards Viognier. “We have featured the wine flight before and it has been quite popular,” Majestic manager Maria Chicas said.
* Vinifera: plan to offer 2006 Horton Vineyards Viognier ($9), 2006 Gabriele Rausse Cabernet Franc ($9), 2008 Loudoun Valley Vineyard Vinifera Red and Vinifera White ($28 each per half bottle).
* Vintage 50/Vintage 51: chef Aaron McCloud assured me they’ll be pouring something from Fabbioli Cellars and said they were still vetting other potential wine partners.
* The Wine Kitchen: plan to offer Kluge Estate New World Red ($3.50 – taste, $9 – glass, $31 – bottle) , 2007 Michael Shaps Chardonnay ($3 – taste, $11 – glass, $42 – bottle) and Tarara Winery Long Bomb Edition Two ($4 – taste, $7 – glass, $28 – bottle), as well as a discounted flight ($7) featuring all three.
A Virginia Wine Marketing aide said they’ve recruited over 160 participants to date and hope to cross into the 200s before registration closes on Monday, March 15.
Meanwhile, we’d like to know: does your favorite restaurant serve Virginia wine? And if not, might this promotion entice you to sample something local?
–Warren
Ashby Inn Welcomes New Hospitality Team
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, November 18th, 2009

The next chapter in the storied history of Paris’ Ashby Inn is set to be written by chef Tarver King and co-managing partner Neal Wavra–a dynamic duo of fine dining who last turned heads during their (brief) tenure at the neighboring Goodstone Inn.
After parting ways with the Goodstone last summer, Wavra said he quietly resolved to pursue his own farm-to-table dining venture (“The next step for me will be my own place,” he said of his dare-to-fly-solo mindset).
The entrepreneurial bug led him to begin scouting local farms–which, in a very roundabout way, culminated in a surprise introduction to Ashby Inn owners Chuck and Jackie Leopold.
When all was said and done, Neal and his wife, Star, had carved out a partnership deal for themselves. And journeyman chefs King (executive) and Nathan Shapiro (sous) found themselves working together once more.
Although he’s now officially an “innkeeper,” Wavra said he’s very much looking forward to revamping the Ashby’s wine and beverage program (think: visiting winemaker dinners and more local pours) and mixing things up in the kitchen with King.
“I’m working every day in the restaurant,” Wavra said of his hands-on management style.
King said he is pleased to be back behind the burners, but stressed that he’s still formulating a plan that melds Ashby’s longstanding traditions with his passion for progressive cuisine.
“A lot of that is definitely on hold,” he said when pressed about resurrecting the elaborate foams and eyebrow-raising proteins (self-cooking steak, anyone?) that obliged people to hike out to Middleburg.
In the meantime, King says he’ll delve even deeper into locally-sourced everything–”It’s not just bright points. We are seeking to do the whole menu locally,” Wavra stated–floating plans for potential farm-to-fork dinners showcasing specific producers or a grand scale “meat-the-farmers” tasting featuring a variety of agricultural artisans and their wholesome wares.
“We’re going to have a LOT of farmer dinners,” he predicted.
Till then, King plans to busy himself by fine-tuning his a la carte selections–latest offerings include: rabbit stew with cider and chestnuts, roast pork with kale and sherry vinegar, and scallop dumplings with tomato confit and fennel–and tinkering with some tasting menu options (he’s currently considering a “spontaneous tasting menu” for adventurous guests as well as a traditional degustation format).
But don’t expect any sweeping changes before January.
–Warren
Northside Social, Lyon Hall Coming to Clarendon
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, November 13th, 2009
With their flagship now firmly anchored in the Clarendon dining scene, Liberty Tavern owner Stephen Fedorchak and his hospitality crew stand poised to unveil their latest historical property repurposings:
* Northside Social, a bakery/lounge erected from the ashes of the now-defunct Murky Coffee, and;
* Lyon Hall, a “casual neighborhood brasserie” moving into the former home of Dan Kain trophies.
Northside Social will be managed by Willow‘s one-time sommelier Alison Christ, while ex-Murky Coffee general manager Marianne Tolosa will step in as director of coffee (look for Counter Culture java and dairy goods from Trickling Springs Creamery). Baker G. David King is expected to trot out around a half dozen bread varieties per day.
Liberty Tavern executive chef Liam LaCivita will oversee both the Northside and Lyon Hill kitchens–though the search is on to lock in a full-time sous chef for Lyon Hall.
Northside Social is expected to feature “work-friendly farm tables” as well couches and love seats for maximum lounging, while second story guests will now enjoy an aerial view of the ground floor. The from dawn-to-dusk venue is also expected to field various alternatives to your morning joe (think: fully developed wine and beer program) as well as live music.
Northside’s menu will turn on breakfast, lunch and other lite-fare, and is tentatively set to include: Polyface Farm egg sandwiches, homemade granola and yogurt, chicken liver rillettes and apple pie topped with Fiscalini cheddar (FINALLY!).
Northside is currently projected to open right around Christmas.
Lyon Hall appears to be more of a bistro/bar project, uniting nearly two dozen craft beers–gourmet suds junkies can expect 20 draft lines–with Eastern European cuisine, including: Alsatian tarts, hanger steak and frites, skate schnitzel, roast chicken and a Bohemian sausage platter (stocked with homemade jagdwurst, bratwurst and kielbasa).
The three-story establishment will also feature an open kitchen (basement), 18-seat marble bar, outdoor patio, semi-private dining in the “Trophy Room” and reclaimed New York City subway light fixtures throughout.
Lyon Hall is expected to debut early February 2010.
Northside Social – 3211 Wilson Blvd., Arlington. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, late-night dining, Thursday through Saturday.
Lyon Hall – 3100 Washington Blvd., Arlington. Open for dinner, Tuesday through Saturday.
–Warren
Dog Days? Not If Dante Can Help It
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, August 12th, 2009
Subarbanites looking to spice up Hump Day may want to check out Dante’s new antipasti roll out this evening from 5:30 – 7:30 p.m.
“It’s such a lovely restaurant that not many people know about,” Dante spokesperson Chris Geno said, noting that the al fresco event will feature a cash bar and free samples of Dante’s latest lite fare line-up, including:
* fried calamari
* bacon-wrapped scallops
* prosciutto and melon, and,
* assorted bruschetta
Geno said she hopes to continue the come-as-you-are socials through September (the next gathering will take place on August 19 and then resume after Labor Day), and is already looking into adding live music into the mix to further entice frazzled commuters.
“We’re just trying to get everyone together on a nice summer evening,” she insisted.
–Warren
NoVA Restaurant Scene Explodes this July
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, July 6th, 2009
Really wishing I’d gone the restful route this past weekend. Because it looks like the hospitality industry is gearing up for a big July.
Trummer’s on Main
Victoria and Stefan Trummer have devoted the last year of their lives to transforming the former Hermitage Inn into their new restaurant, Trummer’s on Main. And we’ll finally get a peek at the fruits of their labor when they formally open their doors on Monday, July 13.
The Trummers have entrusted chef Clayton Miller with helping to realize their epicurean dreams, a responsibility he takes quite seriously. Miller describes views his cooking style as modern American, which means he’s only too happy to draw inspiration from all over the globe in order to weave exotic flavors into local ingredients.
He’s also a fan of carving out separate dining experiences within a single venue, which is why Trummer’s will feature gourmet snacks at the bar (available by request in the main dining room), seasonal a la carte offerings as well as a fluid multicourse tasting menu (3-5 courses or chef’s choice) in the main dining room and a 3-course brunch (coming soon) predicated on fresh pastries, homestyle favorites and snappy petit fours.
“I want the guests to have flexibility,” Miller suggests.
Kora
Though he just shuttered Farrah Olivia a few weeks back, telegenic toque Morou Ouattara is ready to jump right back into action with Kora–a family-friendly Italian project taking over the old Bebo spot. Morou and older brother Amadou (last seen behind the burner’s at Middleburg’s Salvia restaurant) will lead a kitchen dedicated to quick, comfortable eats.
“It’s not going to be too far away from casual Italian,” Morou said, listing homemade pizzas and gourmet paninis as Kora cornerstones.
Morou remains committed to resurrecting Farrah Olivia in the near future (within the next year and a half, anyway), but has not yet fixed on a new location. “Whatever comes at the right time, we’ll take it,” he said of his open-ended real estate shopping philosophy.
Columbia Firehouse
The Neighborhood Restaurant Group is hoping to rekindle interest in the old Bookbinders space by launching their own dual-natured venue, Columbia Firehouse, in the next few weeks. Orlando Hitzig (most recently attached to the now-defunct Mark & Orlando’s near Dupont Circle) is still fine tuning the Columbia Firehouse menu, but estimates it will revolve around “comfort food that you can do at home, but don’t want to.”
The first floor will feature said staples, including: smoked chicken wings with buttermilk-blue cheese dressing, Maryland crab cakes and gourmet burgers. The upstairs–tentatively set to open this August–will follow more of an upscale chophouse format.
“That’s where we will be trying to draw in folks from across the river,” Hitzig estimates.
Maestro 2.0 (?)
I’ve just about given up on this industry parlor game. But if you are still interested in what will become of the once fabled Tysons’ dining palace, the cut-off for all placeholder functions is July 31.
–Warren
NoVA Restaurants Score Big at 2009 RAMMYS
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Sunday, June 7th, 2009

(Image: Michael Birchenall)
A cadre of stellar local toques and restaurants (many of whom we’ve crowed about in the magazine) did NoVA proud at the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington’s 2009 RAMMY awards.
Top honors takers from here in the Old Dominion included:
* Restaurant Eve (Fine Dining Restaurant of the Year)
* The Liberty Tavern (Neighborhood Gathering Place)
* Anthony Chittum (Rising Culinary Star of the Year), and,
* Kate Jansen (Pastry Chef of the Year)
Congratulations to all the 2009 nominees and, of course, to the aforementioned award winners. Peruse the full list of 2009 RAMMY contenders here.
–Warren
