Think Before You Eat: On Meat

Posted by Stefanie Gans / Friday, April 27th, 2012

[NYT]

Is It Ethical to Eat Meat?

Posted by Stefanie Gans / Tuesday, March 27th, 2012

When Michael Vick joined the Philadelphia Eagles after being incarcerated for animal cruelty, many of my canine-loving friends refused to watch the Birds. They could no longer endorse a team that hired a convicted animal abuser.

I shot back.

There are many, many more current NFL players that have abused women, never received punishments and continue to play football without any penalties. How could they be okay with someone that rapes or hits a woman but not okay with violence against an animal? 

I also asked them about their meat eating habits.

Did they understand the cruelty that goes on in the raising of factory-farmed animals?

Did they happily eat chicken, pork and cows that have been tortured?

What’s the difference between a farm animal and a dog? And is killing and eating an animal cruel?

Is it torture? Is it ethical?

The New York Times wants to hear your opinions on the subject. Read more about the essay contest and leave your thoughts here in the comments. I can’t wait to debate with you.

Tell Us Why It’s Ethical to Eat Meat – A Contest [NYT]

Back of the House: Fat of the Land

Posted by Warren Rojas / Friday, July 29th, 2011

An insider’s guide to the navigating the fine dining restaurant world.

~

“There are definite procedures to ensure a positive dining/restaurant experience. It all begins with
this idea: Prepare for good dining karma.”
- Restaurant Eve Service Manual

I love fat.

<1957 ad from British Lard Marketing Board>

Bacon drippings. Pork cracklins. And the juicy, precious, sweet goodness that is bone marrow.

For years my mother and I have had arguments on the subject of meat fat:

“Look at the fat!”

“Don’t eat the fat!”

“Skim off the fat!”

My mother is from the Philippines. And most Filipinos—I said most, not all—from her generation usually cooked the bejesus out of their meat; my mother was no exception. Any existence of moisture in her meat was gleaned from the precious remaining fat.

I had many fond memories of food and my mother …

This is about the time where you would expect me to wax poetic about food daydreams: the scent of blah-blah-blah that wafted from my mother’s kitchen. Or how I remember my mother lovingly preparing pies from apples plucked from the garden trees…

Yeah, yeah, every intro to every cheffy cookbook today contains the similar story: Oh, every delicious memory is just so, so … romantic.

Ok, idyllic paradise, we get it. And no, I’m not jealous that some of you spent your adolescence in a foodie Shangri La. Because regardless of how I made it here in the food world, I made it here.

Surprising, really, because I was a SPAM eating kid. How I loved the little key that opened the blue tin jar. It was so magical to me. That hook-bent key could even unlock doors! If it was processed or packaged in Technicolor, it had my name all over it. I was a pink fluffy, Hostess snowball eating kid who thought T.V. dinners were the bomb: unwrapping that shiny pinched foil to find food nestled in perfect compartments was like treasure hunting, especially if I got one with the little, “baked” apple streusel.

Growing up, this was all the “culinary” I knew and yet somehow it prompted food epiphanies in my life.

I would pronounce the glories of fat one summer day when my mother decided we would have steak and she could try a new marinade. She pulled two rib eyes from the package from ‘Blank-Blank’ butchers. I was surprised because normally non-rich kids, with single mothers didn’t shop there. But it was summer, my mother bought a little charcoal grill and wanted to treat me.

That day I learned that my mother’s version of grill really meant = kill it again.

“Well done” was an oxymoron to even a six year old. But my mother was smiling, so I compliantly ate—shoe leather. I cut into the maligned meat and accidentally included a slice of caramelized squishiness charred by the hot coals. Remarkably this bite was less leathery, with a twinge of magnificent.

I had experienced fat for the first time.

We are told that we should not eat animal fat—that it’s bad for us. But many cultures all over the world (from the arctic to the equator) have eaten animal fats throughout many millennia.

When you dine in any of our restaurants, butter and cream are prized, and fat is celebrated. Our chefs—and every chef I know—love to cook with it, so it’s put back in its rightful place: in our food.

<Eamonn Armstrong, Meshelle’s son, grinding suet>

Biscuits and pastry taste gorgeous and are perfectly crumbly because of lard. Minced pies are made with suet. Roasts are browned with beef drippings. And chickens are fried in duck fat.

But the king of all fat comes from pigs.

It is used for many applications: terrines, pates, sausages. Or simply: salted, cured, spiced, cut thin and adored.

Thank goodness our country has caught the fever of the sensible.

At least I thought we had.

One night at the restaurant we offered the notable, black Ibérico ham (Pata Negra.) If you are unfamiliar with this precious pig—and I’m not being facetious, this is one pricy porker—it comes from a region in Spain where it is truly treasured. It basically runs around freely and feasts on acorns. Ultimately, all that running and feasting makes for one happy, tasty pig.

Seriously though, it is superior. And if it is served at room temperature (never cold) the key part of the flavor is (to me, anyway) the mouth-feel—the way the fat melts away, and tells the story.

That night, a luscious slice was given to each guest in the tasting room. Everyone did their thing and enjoyed it properly. With the exception of one couple. Though they were as verbally delighted as the others, they fastidiously pulled all of the succulent, white fat from the meat and placed it on the corner of their plates in a tragic heap.

<Jamon Iberico>

When we proceeded to take their order, all questions were about nothing else than fat. “Is there butter in that? What about cream? Can have it without the bacon? Oh, I can’t eat that I’m on the (blank, blank) diet.”

WHAT!!??

FAT belongs in a celebration.

First of all, when you make reservations in a fine dining restaurant—especially for a special occasion—leave the diet at home. I understand you want to eat healthy. Do it every other night of the week. But when in a fine dining restaurant, where the very purpose is to indulge, splurge.

Order the terrine, the sausage, the salted pork and a great bottle of wine. You’ll be alright; death’s winged chariot is not coming for you.

And please remember not only is animal fat not the villain it’s made out to be, it’s good for you. If you are eating high quality fats, such as pasture fed, non-medicated, organic eggs, dairy, poultry, and meat, you are doing your body good.

There, I said it.

I’m going to make it even clearer. If you are eating conventionally/industrialized raised poultry and meat, then, yes, it is a good idea to cut off the fat—as the medications, hormones and pesticides consumed by the animal will be concentrated in the fat, which will in turn be concentrated in your fat.

That’s right: all fat is not created equal.

If you can understand the difference, I am hoping I can turn you into one of us, a fat evangelist, to go and spread the good word.

Fat is not a dirty word and fat does NOT make you fat.

Fat is natural. Do not fear it. The hydrogenated vegetable oil (HVO, AKA trans fat) companies took over and convinced you lard was the villain.

Fat guarantees taste and succulence. Simple. Without it, meat will be dry and tasteless.

Fat has lots of good fatty acids that fight disease and lower cholesterol.

Fat helps the body make better use of fat-soluble (the operative word, look it up) vitamins (A, D, E and K; carotene; omega-3′s) and minerals. This is the reason why proteins naturally come paired with fat: the protein in egg whites is paired with the fat of the yolks, muscle meat is marbled with and attached to fat (this food was not engineered in a factory). Generations not too long ago, intuitively knew this. Hence the reason classic vegetable recipes are cooked with fat – potatoes mashed with butter and cream, collards stewed with salt pork, etc. (No, we did not wise up, we got ‘target marketed.’)

Fat is flavor and just makes everything better.

Sadly, not everyone is ready to embrace the sublime. On a daily basis we still battle with the stigma, “Why is there so much pork in everything?” (Um, because it’s delicious) Children are taught that “lard-o”, “fats-o,” doesn’t mean you are yummy and tasty. My mother still lectures me, and my own children trim their meat. With outstretched forks they just “pass it to mom.”

Did the fat love skip a generation? Will my grandchildren side with grandma Meshe?

The drug companies (who won’t make money if you are healthy) and the junk food industry have done a bang up job convincing the American public that fats are bad for us. But too much of anything is bad for you.

I am not a nutritionist. I am a restaurateur whose most favorite activity is food.

You might disavow the truth about fat. But I’m hoping there’s no escaping the voice of reason in your own head. God is a brilliant designer. He knew exactly what he was doing when he gave us his bounty.

And while my mother just yesterday sneered that I didn’t pat my bacon, I think she would have to agree with me.

___________________________________

I could continue to blab about the virtue of fat but if you really want to know what’s what, read the book by Chef Jennifer McLagan: “Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, With Recipes.” She is brilliant and one of my culinary heroes.

–Meshelle Armstrong, co-owner Restaurant Eve, Eamonn’s a Dublin Chipper, PX, The Majestic, Virtue Feed & Grain, Society Fair.

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Contemplate the collective Back of the House wisdom by following along here.

Got a story/ question/comment to contribute to the dining karma conversation? Leave a comment below. Or go straight to the source at: Eatgoodfood@me.com

Mr. Meat

Posted by Warren Rojas / Wednesday, July 27th, 2011

(Image: The History Channel)

Reclusive rillette maker Jamie Stachowski is ready for his close up, and he’s bringing all things animal flesh along for the eye-popping ride tonight with Meat America.

The two hour episode (airing from 9-11 p.m. on the History Channel) appears to follow the now familiar food doc/travelogue format, with Stachowski bouncing around the U.S. gathering odd bits of our culinary history for every bite of mixed protein he wolfs down.

A show teaser places Stachowshi in Chi-town, The Pelican State and Cali during this initial installment; Stachowski apparently didn’t find much worth filming in our collective backyard–”There’s no TV talent here,” he joked–but did give a shout out to local farmers market standby Mark Toigo of Toigo Orchards.

“It’s pretty simple: Jamie goin [sic] around meeting people, talking meat, havin [sic] fun wit it, and giving a bit of, duh, history … you know, the Jamie show,” was the way Stachowski encapsulated what we should expect to see on the screen tonight.

Here’s the official show description:

Can’t watch live/DVR Stachowksi’s star turn? Operators are standing by to rush the feature length DVD right to your door.

–Warren

Carnivores Unite for Meat Week 2010

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, January 28th, 2010

Two days and counting until Meat Week 2010! The event lasts from January 31 to February 7 nationwide, with the event culminating on Super Bowl Sunday. What a perfect way to end the week: barbeque and pigskin. Eight days of pure heaven for meat lovers. 

Image: Kelly Kubik

In 2005 “The Holiday That Time Forgot” was founded by Chris Cantey and Erni Walker in Tallahassee, Florida.  Although the term meat refers to any and all animal flesh, they decided to focus meat week on barbeque, Southern style barbeque that is.  Awards are handed out for Best of’s (Sauce, Service, Sides, Atmosphere, and All-Around) and Meat Week Honors.  Meatography is key to documenting the event.

The DC region can thank Captain Mike Bober of Capital Spice, for putting together a mouthwatering list of venues for DC’s first ever Meat Week.

DC’s Meat Week 2010 Schedule:

-Sunday, Jan 31: Urban BBQ in Rockville, MD

-Monday, Feb 1: Rocklands Barbeque in Washington, DC

-Tuesday, Feb 2: Red Hot & Blue in Arlington, VA

-Wednesday, Feb 3: Pork Barrel BBQ at Mango Mike’s in Alexandria, VA from 5-9pm ($15.95)

-Thursday, Feb 4: Capital Q in Washington, DC

-Friday, Feb 5: Branded ’72 in Rockville, MD

-Saturday, Feb 6: Mr. P’s Ribs and Fish in Washington, DC (514 Rhode Island Ave, NE in the Safeway parking lot) at 3pm

-Sunday, Feb 7: venue of your choice at 6pm

The idea was to keep the event within the Beltway and Metro accessible, so only two venues are in Virginia.

Lucky for us, one of the Virginia venues (Mango Mike’s) will feature a preview of what’s to come at Pork Barrel BBQ (yes, the makers of the sauce and dry rub), which opens this spring in the Del Ray neighborhood of Alexandria, VA. It’s an appropriate debut as the guys at Pork Barrel are partnering with Mike Anderson and Bill Blackburn of Mango Mike’s to develop the new restaurant.

Urban BBQ is on the list, which is the location of last years first attempt by Tim Carman in drawing fans to the holiday. 

Rockland’s Virginia locations, though not the primary site for the holiday, will be happy to take any carnivores eager to bite into some barbeque.

On the last day participants are free to eat barbeque at a game watching party of their choice.  All gatherings are open to the public and take place at 7pm, unless otherwise noted. You don’t have to attend all 8 days.

To secure a spot at Pork Barrel’s tasting, email capitalspice@gmail.com by Monday evening.

Excuse me while I go wipe the drool off my face.

–Aisha Salazar

Where’s the Beef?

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, June 19th, 2009

We’ve got a copy of the latest Morton’s cookbook up for grabs. (Whet your appetite here).

To claim it, all you have to do is share:

a) where you shop for choice cuts of meat (local butchers, sustainable farms, commercial groceries, etc.), or;

b) the best steak deals you’ve discovered around town (prime rib nights, chateaubriand specials, cut-rate sirloin sandwiches).

We’ll randomly choose a winner from all comments posted by 5 p.m. Tuesday, June 23.

Anyone who misses out on the gratis meat manual can snag a signed copy from Morton’s co-founder Klaus Fritsch at next week’s D.C. and Reston receptions. Each ticket ($59) nets guests a book, access to a dinner auction and includes a $5 contribution to Feeding America.

–Warren

Bring on the Butcher Shops

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, March 13th, 2009

Would that prime cuts of beefs and charcuterie could save our flagging economy.

(Photo: Laurent Jung)

Because this area boasts a slew of custom meat purveyors par excellence.

Tallula/EatBar ex-toque Nathan Anda left the Arlington gastrohub last summer to develop his own charcuterie concept, which has since evolved into the Red Apron Butchery. Though he’s still scouting final locations for the shop–something Anda hopes is “weeks, not months away”–Anda already envisions a full-service facility replete with homemade sauces, gourmet foodstuffs and exotic proteins.

“It’ll be an experience, going in there,” Anda insists. He plans to specialize in “stuff that isn’t available everywhere,” tossing out pig ear terrines, cured lamb bellies, handmade lardo and trotters as potential impulse buys.

In the meantime, Anda’s current catalog (cured meats, homemade hot dogs) will be available for retail purchase at Planet Wine and officially debuts in Buzz‘s panini line. Anda is also firming up his relationships with various local farmers markets, estimating that he’ll make the rounds to the weekly Ballston, Penn Quarter and possibly one other open-air showplace beginning early next month.

Anda is also talking with fellow Neighborhood Restaurant Group chefs Anthony Chittum (Vermilion) and Frank Morales (Rustico) about weaving some of his wares into their menus.

“Hopefully, in the coming months, he’ll be using my pepperoni,” Anda said of the spicy sausage he’s developed for Morales’ gourmet pies. He also plans to make his products readily available to incoming Tallula chef Barry Koslow–though he suspects the charcuterie-savvy Koslow will not want for jaw-dropping snackables.

“With Barry coming in, it’s [Tallula] going to be awesome,” Anda predicts.

Meanwhile, Robert Wiedmaier’s new gourmet shop, The Butcher’s Block should be up and running shortly. Chef Chris Watson will oversee a gourmet retailer (along with the fledgling BRABO/BRABO Tasting Room) poised to offer fresh breads, wild game and a bevy of Belgian beers.

Down the road in Del Ray, Aussie butcher Stephen Gatward has developed a loyal following at Let’s Meat on the Avenue by serving up hard-to-find items (kangaroo meat, anyone?) as well as neighborhood necessities (smoked dog bones).

For those who enjoy a a dash of intrigue with their entrails, the mercurial Jamie Stachowski continues to peddle his cured goodies in the darnedest places (next delivery: tomorrow at noon).

And I would be terribly remiss if I didn’t give a nod to the gourmet links that spring from the mind of improbable sausage baron, Stanley Feder.

We’ve never had it so good.

–Warren Rojas