Don’t Ever Say That PAUL Gave You Nothin’

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, September 15th, 2011

This past weekend, after a long dinner with copious amounts of food at America Eats Tavern, I was strolling through DC’s Penn Quarter when I noticed across the plaza of the US Navy Memorial a wonderfully familiar awning. In the clear night, I could make out the clean white letters of PAUL shining ever so gloriously in the moonlight. I never thought I would see such a magnificent sight as PAUL right here in DC, the capital of the United States of America!

 

I discovered PAUL when I was traveling through France and immediately fell in love with their beautifully delicious baked goods—second to the Eifel Tower and €2 wine, these pastries are what I think of when I think of France. Don’t get me wrong, I definitely preferred some of the one-of-a-kind patisseries I found on the small streets in Paris, but during the two weeks I was traveling through France, I learned that Paul was a trustworthy brand in which I could lay my expectations of eating some form of delicious French baked goods. When I was back in Barcelona resuming my work, I was pleasantly surprised to find a random PAUL franchise for a taste of Paris in a different European country.

Back in DC, I was pulled by some force, despite my fullness from dinner, towards the shining lights of PAUL and gazed in through the windows. It was about 9 p.m. and the lights were still on as a few workers were closing down shop. Before I knew it, one of the workers saw me and the group I was with and started walking quickly towards the locked door. Pardon me, didn’t mean to eye-rape your baked goods, kind sir, just taking an innocent glance!

“You folks want something?”

“Oh, nooo, just looking….”

“Hang on—” and he was off, walking towards the back of the cute little shop.

We all looked at each other in giddy curiosity of where this friendly worker was going and what he might be bringing back with him. I was expecting some day-old croissants, a couple of stale macaroons, at best. He returned from the kitchen with a large box to present us with, opening it in front of our bright eyes. Inside was a lattice-topped fruit pie, probably about 12 inches in diameter, so beautifully glazed it nearly reflected the moonlight.

“I was gonna take it home with me, but I really don’t need it,” the man said.

“Really?”

“Enjoy it…and don’t ever say that PAUL gave you nothin’!”

It was the sweetest thing that I had witnessed a stranger do in a while. What better way to brighten up the end of a great night with free pie?

The item turned out to be what PAUL calls a tarte aux myrtilles, otherwise known as a blueberry tart. Though it was clearly just left over from the morning, so not completely fresh as to be servable the next business day, it was a sweet gift, and I will forever remember PAUL as a sweet delight. 

PAUL is located at 801 Pennsylvania Ave., NW DC; 202-524-4500. For more information visit www.paul-usa.com.

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Ashby Inn Welcomes New Hospitality Team

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, November 18th, 2009

The next chapter in the storied history of Paris’ Ashby Inn is set to be written by chef Tarver King and co-managing partner Neal Wavra–a dynamic duo of fine dining who last turned heads during their (brief) tenure at the neighboring Goodstone Inn.

After parting ways with the Goodstone last summer, Wavra said he quietly resolved to pursue his own farm-to-table dining venture (“The next step for me will be my own place,” he said of his dare-to-fly-solo mindset).

The entrepreneurial bug led him to begin scouting local farms–which, in a very roundabout way, culminated in a surprise introduction to Ashby Inn owners Chuck and Jackie Leopold.

When all was said and done, Neal and his wife, Star, had carved out a partnership deal for themselves. And journeyman chefs King (executive) and Nathan Shapiro (sous) found themselves working together once more.

Although he’s now officially an “innkeeper,” Wavra said he’s very much looking forward to revamping the Ashby’s wine and beverage program (think: visiting winemaker dinners and more local pours) and mixing things up in the kitchen with King.

“I’m working every day in the restaurant,” Wavra said of his hands-on management style.

King said he is pleased to be back behind the burners, but stressed that he’s still formulating a plan that melds Ashby’s longstanding traditions with his passion for progressive cuisine.

“A lot of that is definitely on hold,” he said when pressed about resurrecting the elaborate foams and eyebrow-raising proteins (self-cooking steak, anyone?) that obliged people to hike out to Middleburg.

In the meantime, King says he’ll delve even deeper into locally-sourced everything–”It’s not just bright points. We are seeking to do the whole menu locally,” Wavra stated–floating plans for potential farm-to-fork dinners showcasing specific producers or a grand scale “meat-the-farmers” tasting featuring a variety of agricultural artisans and their wholesome wares.

“We’re going to have a LOT of farmer dinners,” he predicted.

Till then, King plans to busy himself by fine-tuning his a la carte selections–latest offerings include: rabbit stew with cider and chestnuts, roast pork with kale and sherry vinegar, and scallop dumplings with tomato confit and fennel–and tinkering with some tasting menu options (he’s currently considering a “spontaneous tasting menu” for adventurous guests as well as a traditional degustation format).

But don’t expect any sweeping changes before January.

–Warren

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