Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, February 19th, 2009
By Abby Horowitz

“Casserole Crazy: Hot Stuff for Your Oven.” Emily Farris. Penguin Books, 208 pgs., $15.95
Better start washing the dust off those old Pyrex dishes. The age of the casserole is back … with a vengeance.
But never fear.
“Casserole Crazy,” the debut cookbook—and oftentimes autobiography—from New York City editor/blogger Emily Farris will ensure your condensed soup days are a thing of the past.
Farris’ cookbook, bursting with original recipes (along with a handful from cooking greats like Bobby Flay and Donatella Arpaia), aims to brings an air of sophistication back to the one-dish meal.
“A casserole is no more than the sum of your favorite ingredients baked together in one dish,” Farris said. “Do you like lasagna? Kugel? Baked ziti? Enchiladas? If the answer is yes to any of those, my work is done.”
Still not convinced?
Farris forked over her personal recommendations for every occasion, from church potlucks (cauliflower and potato gratin) and the kids’ pre-soccer practice rush (beefy mac) to Sunday morning breakfast (French toast casserole) or romantic dinners with that special someone (a pasta dish she calls “Seduction”). With a wide range of vegetarian and good-for-you recipes, plus easy tips for personalizing each dish, this collection ensures that no matter the situation, casseroles have got you covered.
(February 2009)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 8th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, with Recipes
According to award-winning food scribe Jennifer McLagan, annual butter consumption in North America has dropped 13-and-a-half pounds per capita over the last 100 years—and she’s none too happy about it.
“To share and pass on the knowledge of food means being active participants … It requires understanding where our food comes from, respecting the animals we kill, and being able to cook them—all of them, including the fat,” she argues in “Fat,” her ode to nature’s most mouthwatering of lubricants.
McLagan makes her case for pleasurable yet salutary dining throughout, attacking what she perceives as an unhealthy obsession with preternatural thinness (“Few of us are designed to be fashion models”) and the widening sociological disconnect between why we eat what we eat (“I am not talking about being up with the latest food trends, but the ability to cook a simple meal from scratch”).
No mere fanatic, McLagan argues for becoming reacquainted with animal extracts above our manmade substitutes (margarine, hydrogenated vegetable oils) through scientific and anecdotal evidence alike. She plots the burning points, saturated/monounsaturated/polyunsaturated fat content and nutritional value of each flavor enhancer chronicled, and the book is peppered with etymological snippets of butter speak through the ages.
Noteworthy recipes include: larded-up Portuguese peas, pumpkin-bacon soup, duck-fat biscuits with cracklings, miso-orange roast pork belly and rhubarb King cake.
“Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, with Recipes.” Jennifer McLagan. Ten Speed Press, 240 pgs., $32.50
(December 2008)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 8th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

Cooking with Les Dames d’Escoffier
An army of today’s elite female food professionals share some of their hard-learned lessons and battle-tested recipes in “Cooking with Les Dames d’Escoffier,” a cookbook packed with almost as many culinary war stories as it is recipes.
The roster of esteemed contributors reads like a who’s who of working chefs, including local talents Ris Lacoste (ex-1789 toque launching the eponymous Ris in 2009), Nongkran Daks (Thai Basil) and Nora Pouillon (Restaurant Nora).
The book is layered with sage cooking advice (“Some things are not to be done by shortcuts: your black peppers, cardamom and nutmeg need to be freshly ground, your lemons freshly squeezed and your garlic freshly chopped”), quickie tips for gussying up dull dishes (“Making food attractive”) and tongue-in-cheek revelations about the reality behind televised cooking segments (“It is often a grand illusion, yet behind the camera there is always an army of cooks getting the job done”).
It also features over 100 innovative recipes (culled from over 400 original entries), including: spicy fava beans and caviar, grilled gazpacho salad, butternut squash-kale minestrone, shrimp with Armenian pesto, Philly cheesesteaks with truffled cheese (prepared for President Clinton), Lacoste’s creamy feat potatoes and a pork- and pancetta-stuffed artichokes dish from Gina Batali—Mario’s younger sister.
“Cooking with Les Dames d’Escoffier: At Home with the Women Who Shape the Way We Eat and Drink” Edited by Marcella Rosene with Pat Mozersky. Sasquatch Books, 400 pgs., $35
(November 2008)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 8th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

The Best Barbecue on Earth
PBS barbecue guru Rick Browne has made a career out of chronicling Americans’ passion for outdoor cooking. That’s why for his latest book, “The Best Barbecue on Earth,” Browne decided to instead check in with the rest of the world—only to discover that their affinity for flame-kissed fare rivals our own.
Brown’s exhaustive barbecue opus includes a host of mind-boggling worldwide dining tidbits (Argentineans consume approximately 150 pounds of beef per capita to the U.S.’s 67 pounds a head; Bavarian sausage lovers have over 1,500 varieties to choose from; elevated heliotropin levels in Tahitian vanilla make it such an effective calming agent some doctors have begun using the beans in cancer therapy), colorful anecdotes (Australian parks are dotted with coin-operated barbecues; the Portuguese are rumored to have a different recipe for salt cod for every day of the year) and, of course, plenty of mouthwatering recipes.
Regional specialties include: pepper-orange rib roast (Australia’s take on citrus-brushed beef), Hoisin-cashew lamb (Sino delicacy involving rice wine,
Thai chili sauce and Szechuan peppercorns), Stilton rib-eye steaks (British favorite consisting of potent blue cheese, butter-crumbled bacon), turkey mole (spiced chocolate bird born from Mexican kitchens), pecan-walnut-crusted bacon roast (a mango salsa-covered pork loin courtesy of Canada) and brown-sugar spare ribs (an American original weaving together beer, savory and aromatic woods).
“The Best Barbecue on Earth.” Rick Browne. Ten Speed Press, 272 pgs., $22.95. To learn more about Browne, his nationally syndicated TV show or his previous cookbooks, visit: www.barbecueamerica.com.
(September 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, December 5th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

Courtesy of Scribner
When it comes to home cooking, Tony Danza is not afraid to admit he might not be the all-time “boss” of Italian cuisine. But he does have a few lessons he’d like to pass on.
In “Don’t Fill Up on the Antipasto,” Danza reflects on the joy of watching his own father weave together their nightly feasts (“An interesting thing happens when you see your father in the kitchen … it’s no longer just woman’s work, and there is no stigma attached to cooking or being in the kitchen”) and the challenges of holiday dining with the family (Thanksgiving brought a full turkey dinner AFTER all the favorite pastas).
The intimate cookbook sprinkles candid snapshots, colorful anecdotes about cherished relatives and quickie cooking lessons amidst recipes plucked from a lifetime of sit-down dinners, as well as some modern interpretations of classic Italian offerings by Tony’s son, chef Marc Danza.
Noteworthy entries include red pepper- and Parmesan-filled baked clams (an uncle’s favorite dish), Sicilian-style pizza (Grandma’s recipe), meatball-laden lasagnas (Mom’s recipe), pan-fried rib eye steaks (Tony’s father’s recipe), spicy pesto-chicken pasta (one of Marc’s creations), chicken-avocado tortilla soup (contributed by Tony’s longtime domestic) and arugula-cannellini beans-red onion salad (borrowed from family friend and chef Lidia Bastianich). Danza even includes a recipe for a curious aloe throat tonic dubbed “The Broadway Elixir,” which he touts as a great salve.
“Don’t Fill Up on the Antipasto: Tony Danza’s Father-Son Cookbook.” Tony and Marc Danza. Scribner, 256 pgs., $22.
(June/July 2008)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, December 5th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

Courtesy of Alpha Books.
Ever reached into the pantry for a pinch of that, only to draw back an empty container?
Veteran cookbook author Ellen Brown can relate. That’s why she’s pieced together a grab bag of so-called “recipe savers” in her latest tome, “The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Cooking Substitutions.”
“General cooking is open to endless variations, all of which can lead to successful results,” she explains early on in the encyclopedic guide, a roster of replaceable foodstuffs supplemented with quickie cooking techniques (Toque Tips), troubleshooting recommendations (Food Foibles) and explanatory asides (Sub-text).
Ingenious substitutions include: blood oranges (reduce regular orange juice by a third and add grenadine), turnips (use a 50-50 puree of rutabagas and parsnips) and ricotta (sugar-dusted farmer’s cheese). Likewise, invaluable guides like her beef tutorial (Brown ballparks the amount of meat required per guest) and a top-down equipment walk-through (baking pan volumes are delineated; alternate uses for everyday utensils are proposed) should prove handy for even the most experienced chefs among us.
Brown also provides plenty of easy-to-navigate tables and charts displaying the utilitarianism of everything from apples (Johnathans scored high all across the board) to assorted cheeses (the U.S. tied in terms of superlative hard cheeses; France claimed the crown for soft varieties).
“The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Cooking Substitutions.” Ellen Brown. Alpha Books, 200 pgs., $16.95.
(May 2008)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, December 5th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

Courtesy of Menus and Music
If gourmet cooking is all about the sights, flavors and textures of a culinary exchange, musician and epicure Sharon O’Connor wants to add a soundtrack to the intercourse of fine-dining.
Through her Menus and Music collection, O’Connor has amassed more than a dozen thematic cookbook bundles featuring recipes from select restaurants, historical asides about the food/region being explored and a companion CD scored as an audio complement to the overall dining experience.
Her “Bistro” package, for example, provides important background distinctions about various French dining institutions, including bistros (comfort food depots), brasseries (traditional brew houses) and cafes (leisurely coffeehouses). She also provides sightseeing tips (“Neighborhood Walk” pointers) for those who wish to wander about for a post-dining spell and attempts to differentiate between haute cuisine and everyday French cooking. (“In France, bistro cuisine is often called cuisine de grand-mere. The simple salads and steaks, braised stews and meats, and comforting, homespun desserts served in most bistros are the dishes you would expect to be served by a French grandmother.”)
Select bistro recipes include: traditional coq au vin, duck with new turnips, rabbit with mustard sauce, Swiss chard and fingerling potato quiche, cod steaks in creamy garlic sauce, soft-boiled eggs with morels, skate with crunchy cabbage, pastry with Armagnac-soaked prunes and caramelized rice pudding.
O’Connor’s other cookbook compilations range from Spanish-style cuisine to wine-centric resorts (including Charlottesville’s famous Clifton Inn) to “rock and roll” diners.
“Bistro.” Sharon O’Connor, assisted by Sarah Creider. Menus and Music productions, 248 pgs. $34. The “Bistro” bundle is available through www.quelobjet.com. To view O’Connor’s full line of multimedia cookbooks, visit: www.menusandmusic.com.
(April 2008)
Spanish Cooking, by the Numbers
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, December 5th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

Courtesy of Phaidon Press
Generations of Iberian cooking tips, family secrets and even recipes from renowned Spanish chefs come neatly packaged in the first English translation of “1080 Recipes,” a culinary tome literally bursting with information.
The mother-daughter team of Simone (a veteran cookbook writer) and Ines Ortega (an established food writer) are constantly revising Simone’s original recipe collection—first published more than 30 years ago—but had never before produced an English-only version.
The straightforward guide continues to focus on rustic, everyday foods rather than the artful creations you’d encounter on a trip to El Bulli, but presents even the most common dishes in an uncommonly attractive fashion (playful illustrations, full-color photographs and helpful tips/historical asides about various ingredients and preparation techniques are sprinkled throughout).
Recipes range from do-it-yourself appetizers (including the curing, preserving and serving of fresh olives) to a litany of seafood-based creations. Notable entries include: bacon-wrapped, fried gruyere twists, Galician empanadas, a versatile butter and anchovy sauce, gazpacho with olive-studded goat cheese balls, a half-dozen paella offerings, the fabled patatas bravas, salt cod fritters, swordfish filets in a shrimp and clams sauce, Madrid-style tripe and homemade churros.
The book also features some bonus dishes submitted by proud Spanish chefs (or at least those heavily influenced by Spanish cooking), including a few gems from our own Jose Andres, who shares his garlic shrimp-gazpacho recipe, as well as a veal cheeks and mashed potatoes walk-through. Buen provecho!
“1080 Recipes.” Simone and Ines Ortega. Phaidon Press, 960 pgs., $39.95
(March 2008)
Bulk Shopping, Creative Cooking
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, December 5th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

Courtesy of Storey Publishing
Once temples for the thrifty, members-only shopping set, mega-retailers and wholesale clubs are quickly becoming the norm for everyday food purchases. But what do you do with that industrial pallet of boneless, skinless chicken thighs (only $15!) once you get it home?
Kati Neville and Lindsay Tkacsik have a few ideas.
The self-proclaimed “warehouse gourmets” share more than 125 scaled-back recipes in their latest tome, “Fix, Freeze, Feast”—not so much a cookbook as a bulk-buying survival guide for harried cooks everywhere. The pair lay out a two-part system for reorganizing each bulk shopping haul—dubbed the “Tray Pack Method”—which involves assembling all your ingredients into ready-to-freeze bundles, which can then be prepared as needed.
“By cooking the tray-pack way, you have the flexibility and control to prepare as many entrees as your time and energy will allow,” the freezer-friendly duo advises.
Featured recipes include: pb&j breakfast cookies, asparagus and potato frittata, habanero and chili hamburgers, cherry skillet chicken and Austrian pork goulash. The authors even include a freezer inventory checklist to help home cooks keep track of their stored meals and trim-and-use instruction labels, which can be affixed to each storage bag before freezing.
“Fix, Freeze, Feast.” Kati Neville and Lindsay Tkacsik. Storey Publishing, 256 pgs, $14.95.
(February 2008)
On Her Majesty’s Dinner Service
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, December 5th, 2008
By Warren Rojas

Eating Royally
Though it has been a decade since he last served her, chef Darren McGrady still remembers some of Princess Diana’s favorite dishes (spring asparagus soup with dill).
In “Eating Royally,” McGrady provides a rare, behind-the-scenes look at Britain’s royal family via their dining habits—weaving together colorful anecdotes about Queen Elizabeth II, Prince Charles, Diana and her sons, William and Harry, with a multitude of recipes showcased at official gatherings.
Invited to join the Buckingham Palace staff shortly after Charles and Diana wed, McGrady quickly became attuned to the rigors of royal life, juggling the daily routine (breakfast at 9 a.m., lunch at 1:15 p.m., tea at 5 p.m., followed by a final meal at 8:15 p.m.) and personal preferences (“Prince Charles is a very health-conscious eater and enjoys whole grains, organic vegetables and simply prepared fish and meats”) of those in his charge.
The book features nearly 130 recipes, including delicacies like: Gaelic steaks, garlic and bacon cabbage, Stilton fritters with creamy walnut dressing, goat cheese-stuffed pheasant and Glenfiddich-spiked chocolate mousse.
Meanwhile, McGrady relates a time Diana received a box of mangoes from a Saudi prince after diplomatically saying she enjoyed said fruit. “Next time I need to mention how much I like diamonds,” she subsequently mused.
“Eating Royally: Recipes and Remembrances from a Palace Kitchen.” Darren McGrady. Thomas Nelson, 240 pgs., $24.99
(December 2007)