Market Tavern

Posted by Eunice / Tuesday, December 27th, 2011

By Warren Rojas

Restaurateur Michael Sternberg tried to give up the daily grind of a local eatery, dedicating the past four-plus years of his hospitality career tending to the marquee contracts fielded by catering giant Centerplate.

In the end, he’s returning to the Arlington scene and crowd he so loved serving there.

Sternberg launched the original Harry’s Tap Room years ago and is back to, once again, shake up Clarendon’s culinary landscape with Market Tavern. “When we first opened Harry’s, we were the upscale option in the neighborhood,” he recalls, marveling at the alternative-rich scene that’s cropped up around him since departing.

The new venture will retain a few touchstones—roaring fireplace, high ceilings, stone walls—that were near and dear to the Harry’s faithful, but the similarities will end there.

First off, Market Tavern will be split into two, separate atmospheres: the lower level bar/lounge, and slightly fussier (think: white table cloths) Chophouse at Market Tavern up above.

Sternberg has also reunited with chef Richard Beckel (last spotted working for the Thompson Hospitality folks out in Reston) and has tasked his long-time friend with producing a pair of menus designed to appeal to both high-end and casual diners. Chophouse guests can look forward to the “Gold Standard” burger, featuring a patty forged from ground short loin, short ribs and brisket, as well as homey casseroles, while lounge-goers will be courted with small plates and myriad burger (lamb, bison, beef) options.

2800 Clarendon Blvd., Arlington; 703-778-7788; www.mtavern.com
Open for dinner daily, brunch Saturday and Sunday.

(December 2011)

Evening Star Café Re-Opens TODAY!

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 8th, 2011

Out of the loop on Evening Star Café?

The 15-year old restaurant in the Del Ray neighborhood of Alexandria has been closed for the past month while undergoing fun and communal renovations.  Today, December 8, the restaurant re-opens with a revamped look, new menu and new chef Jim Jeffords.

Doors open to the neighborhood today to reveal a refurbished space — original wooden banquettes still line the walls, but a new center with bold blue, plush benches boost the seating capacity to 60. New lighting and artwork by local artist Rick Singleton brings a retro feel with old junk turned into new art, in particular, an old Erector set that hangs the lights from the original ceiling in the dining room.

If you look around the restaurant, you’ll notice small vintage details from unique light fixtures made out of old metal to the trophy display on the back wall of the Majestic Lounge bar (the trophies were donated by community members and date back to 1901).

A light fixture made out of vintage jars hangs over the Majestic Lounge's bar.

As a matter of fact, everything about the renovation process has involved the community, from old trophy donations to a yard sale to sell the old furnishings from the pre-renovated restaurant, to a cocktail-naming night that will take place a couple weeks after today’s opening.

The Evening Star menu still features classic-meets-modern American comfort food, but with a more Southern tone. The back bar (dubbed “The Majestic Lounge”) now features 30 bottles of craft beer, 19 draft beers — served from 1950s vintage refrigerators — and one cask, which will feature local brews and rotate constantly. The bar will be serving original cocktails, including “The Hipster,” made with mezcal, chipotle peppers and PBR. You can also order any bottle of wine from Planet Wine next door with your meal.

The kitchen gets cookin’ today for dinner starting at 5:30 p.m. — and it sure isn’t going anywhere for a while.

The Evening Star Café is located at 2000 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria (703-549-5051). Visit www.eveningstarcafe.net for more information.

-Julia Harbo

D.C.’s The Jockey Club Reopens as 2100 Prime

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, October 3rd, 2011

The legendary restaurant formerly known as The Jockey Club, which served celebrities and politicians in D.C.’s Fairfax Hotel on Embassy Row, has reopened as 2100 Prime with a fresh focus on all-natural ingredients.

Executive Chef Mark Timms aims to serve an approachable cuisine that has been prepared with traditional techniques with the freshest ingredients. “An important piece of my work is to involve the local community, children, students and adults, introducing them to fresh, organic, aromatic and tender vegetables, herbs, fruits, fish and grass fed, hormone free meats. I want to bring what’s growing outside to our table here at 2100 Prime, creating a local dining experience for our guests,” Timms said.

The new fall menu includes items from quality organic farms and all-natural producers, such as:

Vermont Butter & Cream Co., Vermont (butter, goat cheese, and marscapone)
Pineland Farms, Virginia and Maine (beef strip loin and tenderloin)
Blue Mon Acres, Pennsylvania (chicken)
Grafton Cheddar, Vermont (cheddar cheese)

Featured on the fall menu is also a section called “Memory Lane,” which will bring back some of the old favorites of The Jockey Club, including their Lobster Thermidor and Dover Sole and Prime Steak Tartare.

New dishes of 2100 Prime include Heirloom Tomato (from Blue Mon Acres) Soup, Brie Spinach and Prosciutto Salad, Chicken ‘n’ Crepes, and Braised Lamb Shank.

“I believe in providing the freshest regional foods available incorporating hormone free meats, fish that is not over produced, and produce grown locally with no pesticides or chemicals. I hold an encompassing respect for farmers who nurture and protect the land,” said Chef Timms.

The restaurant also showcases a wine list with other 130 bottles of domestic and international wines.

2100 Prime is located in the Fairfax Hotel at 2100 Massachussetts Ave., NW (202-835-2100). See the full menu and restaurant website here.

-Julia Harbo

Go Green- Irish Style!

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, September 29th, 2011

The Auld Shebeen, Old Town Fairfax

In old Irish, a “shebeen” was akin to a speakeasy- an after-hours hub where you could always find good spirits, great food and better camaraderie. That’s exactly what you’ll find at The Auld Shebeen Irish Pub and Restaurant in Old Town Fairfax.

Located in a low, unassuming brick building, this popular local spot is also very close to my heart; as a former employee for over 3 years, I can personally say that the atmosphere is as warm and inviting as the people who own it. Dominc Keane and Mick Boyle, partners and life-long friends, opened their doors about 6 years ago and have been thriving ever since.

On any given night you might see a variety of souls: a mix of older gentlemen nursing amber glasses of Irish whiskey or college students in carefree clusters along the bar. This is always the way it is- an eclectic mix of old and young, newcomers and regulars, families and singles which make the atmosphere fun and full of constant change.

The only authentic Irish pub in the Fairfax area, The Auld Shebeen offers a mix of old Irish classics and new American menu items. Such favorites as shepherd’s pie, fish and chips and corned beef and cabbage can be found alongside thick cut pork chops, a variety of fresh salads and hearty pastas.

Not to mention the beer.

Let’s be honest. You can’t have a great Irish pub without an extensive selection of great Irish beer. Not only does The Auld Shebeen pour a mean pint of Guinness, they also boast Smithwick’s (pronounced, “Smitticks” to all you genuine Irish), Harp and Magner’s Hard Cider, along with an impressive array of imported drafts as well as bottles.

But my heart still lies with a perfect pint of Guinness; thick, creamy and wonderfully dark with hints of cocoa and rich coffee- this is almost better than a meal any day!

So pretty!

I said, “Almost!”

When it comes down to it, nothing beats a pint and a plate of stew. Atop a mound of creamy mashed potatoes is a thick stew swimming with thick cut carrots and beef so tender you can cut it with a spoon. What could be more homey and comforting on a seemingly endless rainy day (or month)?

The perfect dinner

How about classic fish and chips? Perhaps the most popular dish on the menu, they are indeed a force to be reckoned with. At The Auld Shebeen they are crispy, light and oh so flaky and delicious. Never greasy or thick, and piled high with chips, onion rings and coleslaw, you definitely will be coming back again and again for this fan favorite.

Can you say, "Yum??"

One other thing you should NOT miss out on is the curry sauce. I know, it sounds a little odd at first, but curry is a true staple of Irish and British cuisine and traditionally served with chips or fish and chips. It’s fragrant and mild, so don’t worry about the spice factor. Trust me, once you’ll try it, you’ll go back for more.

Aside from the tasty food and friendly service, there’s always something going on at the ‘Been (“bean”). Join them every Friday and Saturday night from 7 p.m. – 10 p.m. for live Irish music, Pub Quiz on Tuesday nights and Irish music sessions on Saturday mornings. They also feature a lower-level area called “The Cellar” which is a great late-night venue, hosting live bands and DJ’s every weekend, as well as Karaoke every Tuesday! Phew!

Going back there for me is always like coming home- there’s always a smile and a tall, frosty Guinness waiting. So whether you’re in the mood for a couple of pints after work, meeting friends for dinner or just wanting to cut loose, The Auld Shebeen is a true Fairfax landmark and can always be counted on for having a craic.

And if you don’t know what that means, you’ll just have to go there and find out!

The Auld Shebeen, 3971 Chain Bridge Road, Fairfax; (703)293.9600

For a complete list of Irish pubs in your area go here.

– Jennie Whistler

Freeze Jag: Buzz

Posted by Warren Rojas / Monday, August 29th, 2011

August is historically the steamiest, stickiest, sweatiest month of the year–brilliant move, Founding Fathers, building the nation’s capital on a swamp–in these parts. We’ve tracked down 31 frozen treats (one a day for the rest of this month) to provide you with some temporary, and often insanely delicious, relief.

The place: Buzz – Multiple NoVA locations; www.buzzonslaters.com

The prescription: open-faced oatmeal cookie sandwich with cereal milk ice cream. “It’s supposed to taste like the milk leftover after you eat a bowl of cinnamon toast crunch,” a Buzz worker says of pastry chef Tiffany MacIsaac’s whimsical creation. Maybe–if you’re used to having breakfast at Charles Bukowski’s house. The cookie—spot warmed right when you order—is great, delivering mouthful after mouthful of whole grains, golden and traditional raisins plus bonus cinnamon spice. But it’s the boozy cereal milk, which gets a boost from a long pour of bourbon, that had us cleaning our plate and clamoring for more.

Should you (unlike me) happen to NOT be a raging alcoholic. MacIssac’s treat churning prowess extends to virgin flavors (the aptly named “exotic” weaves together ultra tart mango and lusty spice cake; vanilla is plain delicious) as well as seasonal sorbets (raspberry, apricot).

–Warren

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Keep tabs on the month long Freeze Jag trek here.

Freeze Jag: Breeze Bakery Cafe

Posted by Warren Rojas / Tuesday, August 23rd, 2011

August is historically the steamiest, stickiest, sweatiest month of the year–brilliant move, Founding Fathers, building the nation’s capital on a swamp–in these parts. We’ve tracked down 31 frozen treats (one a day for the rest of this month) to provide you with some temporary, and often insanely delicious, relief.

The place: Breeze Bakery Cafe – 4125 Hummer Road, Annandale; 703-462-9093

The prescription: fruit bingsoo. I know, I know. If you’re gonna bother to eat bingsoo you HAVE to get the red bean paste-laced variety. To be perfectly honest, I wasn’t feeling red bean-y when I strolled into Breeze. In fact, I almost settled for one of their single serving fruit pops. Until I spotted a gaggle of giggling, pony-tailed Asian co-eds gleefully chipping away at a mountainous bowl of bingsoo. I opted for the same and was rewarded with a Technicolor treat loaded with a cornucopia of vivacious fruits (orange, kiwi, strawberries, honey dew melon, pineapple, cantaloupe), wildly sweet fruit syrup, condensed milk and big chewy globs of mochi (very marshmallow like). The syrup turned the shaved ice hot pink and intensified the latent sweetness of the complementary produce, while the sweetened milk gave the entire enterprise a decidedly dairy edge.

Solo diners should probably stick to the aforementioned fruit pops or gelato, as the bingsoo is clearly meant to be shared (preferably with a team of seasoned competitive eaters). Still hungry? Snag one of the ultra crunchy sweet cream twists from the self-serve bakery bins.

–Warren

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Keep tabs on the month long Freeze Jag trek here.

Arlington’s Galaxy Hut to Expand to Falls Church

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, July 13th, 2011

A short, detail-less announcement from The Washington Post says that Arlington’s favorite beer bar/restaurant/arcade/live music venue Galaxy Hut is expanding into Falls Church. Proprietor Lary Hoffman told the Post that the new Galaxy Hut spot will be next to CD Cellar at 709 W. Broad St.

The new spot will be due to open on Oct. 1.

And that’s it for now. All we have now is this picture from the Galaxy Hut facebook page:

Image via Facebook

- Kris King

Red Meat: Warren Brown

Posted by Warren Rojas / Tuesday, July 5th, 2011

It’s been a decade since local cheflebrity Warren Brown dropped the legal briefs and picked up a rolling pin:

(Image: Joshua Cogan)

He’s since opened several bakeries/cafes, helped pioneer the reality cooking show/travelogue concept and has penned a few cookbooks (with at least one more already in the works for next spring).

WR: Butter. Sugar. What other culinary elements could you not live without?

WB: It’s equipment for me. My mixer. My stainless steel skillets (always skip the non-stick). My coffee grinder – to mill spices and whole grains.

WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered? How long did it take? Do you still make it today?

WB: Sweet & Sour Chicken. Haven’t made it in years, but first did it in high school. I remember feeling especially proud when I got the recipe right and successfully fried the chicken strips, and when I tasted the sauce and liked it!

WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?

WB: Stone fruits

WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …

WB: Moro–kinda old, by Sam and Sam Clark, published in England. Love the foods they share.

WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you make it again?

WB: Timpano – after the main dish from the movie Big Night. I’ve made it twice, both times was years ago. It was an all day affair and making the sheet of pasta was a real work out!

WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to collaborate with …

WB: Darren Norris @ Kushi.

WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for yourself?

WB: Tough one. I like scones in the morning with scrambled eggs. Scones with oats and raisins and multi-grain.

Nothing is measured so I don’t really know measurements, but roughly speaking:

WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss my …

WB: New line of cupcakes we’re test running this summer in our Summer Loving freestyle cupcake-a-thon. Strawberry cheesecake, Key Lime pie are just two early eye catchers.

WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …

WB: This summer, a Peak Organic pale ale, or a cold glass of white wine.

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Key Lime pie cupcakes sound like a little slice of heaven. Can’t wait to try one…

Come back next Tuesday for another helping of Red Meat.

–Warren

Red Meat: Blake Bethem

Posted by Warren Rojas / Tuesday, March 1st, 2011

It doesn’t get much more mom-and-pop than Fredericksburg’s Bistro Bethem:

(Image: Aby Bethem)

Northern Virginia native Blake Bethem, a Marine Corps vet turned Johnson & Wales grad, manages the back of the house while his wife, Aby, deals with the front/business side of the hospitality equation. Bethem deals primarily in classic French gastronomy, but also pays tribute to the local foodshed by featuring seasonal ingredients and some Southern accents.

WR: Salt. Pepper. What other spices/herbs could you not live without?

BB: Fennel seed and coriander.

WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered? How long did it take? Do you still make it today?

BB (as related to/by Aby Bethem):  I will answer with gelato. (May not be the first, but it’s a good example). It was a passion of his [Blake's] to master an ice cream recipe starting in 2005. We researched and spent a considerable amount of money on a high end ice cream machine. Then it took many months of ‘tweaking’ the recipe for the base, so that it held correctly in our freezer, the way we serve it, flavor, etc. Finally, I remember the exciting day when he decided we had it figured out. More of a gelato style. Yes, we serve a lot of it. A staple component to our dessert menu. Now it’s more about experimenting with the flavor combinations. I saw a bag of mini marshmellows [sic] come in yesterday, so…

WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?

BB: Pea shoots. A glimpse of spring. Bright, green, fresh, etc. Gets you excited thinking of all the new fresh things that will be available soon. This past weekend, we had quail with a wild rice and pea shoot stuffing. Salmon topped with wilted pea shoots. Used as a garnish/topping.

WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …

BB: Momofuku by David Chang. I think it’s more about the philosophy being used.

“Momofuku is the anti-restaurant. The food eludes easy, or really any, classification. There is a focus on good technique, on seasonality and sustainability, on intelligent and informed creativity. But it is deliciousness by any means that they’re really going for.” – Peter Meehan

That motto is something that Blake has always done with our menu, it’s just seeing it in such a lovely book. Items I have seen incorporated on our menu recently: confit of fingerling potatoes, kim chi

WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you make it again?

BB: Foie Gras Tourchon–because there are a lot of factors that if not done perfectly will cause the dish to fail. Kind of like baking: it’s delicate, time consuming, temperature is the key. Yes, he will make it again and again.

WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to collaborate with …

BB: Terrence Gallivan, he is a close friend and a talented chef. Chef Gallivan grew up here in Fredericksburg. He worked in several restaurants in town during high school. After high school and during his early 20’s he worked with Blake at the restaurant here, (before we owned it), Bistro 309. It was with Blake that he realized that he wanted to go to culinary school. He has with hard work, drive and dedication worked in very reputable New York city restaurants. Working together is not something that would be relevant any time in the close future. I guess in a “maybe” situation, they would explore a “pop up” restaurant concept together, many years down the road–just for fun.

WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for yourself?

BB: English muffin with peanut butter. Simple, quick, protein and out the door. When you cook all day for others, you tend to not cook at home.

WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss my …

BB: Desserts

WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …

BB: Domaine du Salvard Sauvignon Blanc from Cheverny, France or Hendrick’s gin and our house-made tonic.

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Chef, not to hasten your retirement from Bistro Bethem or anything, but we LOVE the pop-up restaurant plan.

Come back next Tuesday for another helping of Red Meat.

–Warren

Small Plates, Big Dreams

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, January 24th, 2011

Maple Ave team proves handy with exotic eats, longs for more elbow room

By Warren Rojas / Photography by Kate Bohler

Ma works his magic on sous vide veal cheek and grilled rapini.

It’s really easy to run out of space on these small tables,” one server sheepishly jokes while struggling to clear away extraneous menus and place settings in time to drop off our battery of dishes before they tumbled from his grasp.

Maple Ave chef/owner Tim Ma can certainly relate.

The one-time engineer cum French Culinary Institute grad bucked the advice of friends and family who warned him against launching his small plate-themed project in late 2009.

He’s been rewarded with a cadre of local followers who regularly file into the oddly shaped and tightly knit location—serviced by nine tables up front, with four more tucked away in the far rear—yet remains frustrated by his inability to properly capitalize on the rising popularity.

“It’s tough to make money here,” the recession-defying restaurateur grouses—though he clearly appreciates his unique predicament. “We’re lucky that we do need more space,” Ma offers.

The main dining room could have been assembled by someone attempting to illustrate the definition of “cozy,” its sage walls adorned with local art (most of it on loan from the neighboring Soundry) while bare wooden tables and chairs are reconfigured at will to accommodate whoever strolls through the front door.

What the location lacks in aesthetic charm the kitchen more than makes up for in culinary artistry.

Maple Ave GM Joey Hernandez taking a well-deserved break.

Ma and his trusted companions, sous chef Nyi Nyi Myint, a Burmese native who spent some time behind the burners at Busaba Eathai while in the UK and is rumored to have cooked for Britain’s royal family, and Nick Seo, a Culinary Institute of America grad who Ma maintains does “a little bit of everything,” are as non-traditional as you can get. The rag-tag trio embraces daring and surprise in lieu of the familiar or formulaic, mining their personal experiences to help compose each carefully orchestrated—and occasionally jarring—dish.

Their carte has run the gamut from caramelized okra drizzled with Thai chili sauce to foie gras-stuffed figs wrapped in duck prosciutto to a sandwich of pulled Polyface pork capped with pickled slaw to a sublime torte sporting alternating tiers of chocolate mousse, homemade peanut butter, chopped pretzels and roasted peanuts. Not to mention the fun they had—think: spicy fried cauliflower, sous vide tuna salad sandwiches and bulgogi banh mi—on their short-lived food truck, Maple Avenue Express (on hiatus until further notice).

“Foie gras and funnel cake don’t [usually] go on the same menu. But somehow, it works,” Ma suggests.

And for the most part, he is right.

A southern standby goes international in a shrimp-and-grits makeover that includes spice-crusted jumbo shrimp, their puffy white flesh studded with freshly cracked black pepper, piquillo peppers-laced grains and crumbly, blueberry-spiked venison sausage.

Surplus pork jowl (a benefit/consequence of getting chummy with local pork baron Steve Baker) was alternately too fatty or tough, proving jerky-like along its thinnest expanses but more luxuriant where the piggy stored its generous padding. A pile of cinnamon-sprinkled, slow-cooked apples offers some TLC to the seared jowl.

Maple Ave’s tightly-knit front dining room.

Bulgogi lettuce wraps, the pork soaked through with orange juice, ginger ale and soy, a la Ma’s mother’s recipe, teeters on the verge of cloying—until bedecked in the caramelized kimchee salvaged from the aforementioned pork jowl platter. The pickled cabbage kicks in just enough sour to cut through the marinade and cements the Korean-ness of the dish.

Melted cheddar seeps into every thirsty crevice of a panko-crusted chicken sandwich that delivers a cocksure, bread-backed crunch that gives way to a juicy-to-the-core breast. Briny pickle chips, truffle mayo and a buttery roll round out the sandwich experience, with herb-flecked fries contributing salt and starch to the dining equation.

A quartet of deep-fried, chocolate-filled dumplings is too cute to deny—at first. Each palm-sized pastry is lightly bubbled on the outside and oozes bittersweet ganache when pierced, eliciting “oohs” and “ahhs” from those who’ve been raised in the era of the omnipresent lava cake. But just a few bites in, I was already wondering why the obviously experimental kitchen didn’t choose to unite the dumplings and side dish of plain vanilla ice cream (dumplings a la mode?). Or perhaps drizzle them with dulce de leche or honey (sopapilla-style) or something?

The sugar-dusted funnel cake, on the other hand, is an undisputed winner. Each mound of fried knottiness— think: giant apple fritters pumped up with helium—slice easily, revealing an extra fluffy, wonderfully flaky interior that you’d swear would go airborne if separated from your fork. The very vanilla bean-y ice cream adds just the right touch of the exotic to the classic carnival fare.

Ma’s passion for creative cooking is matched only by his commitment to sustainable dining. Even though he’s not entirely convinced that the evangelism is worth all the headaches.

“These products don’t come cheap. And the time investment is kind of ridiculous,” he says of the energy he’s expended scouting out regional producers like Polyface Farm and Tuscarora Organic Grower Cooperative.

“Do people come in for that? I think most people don’t. But those who do know [how to] appreciate it and thank us for it,” he says. “The moment you say Polyface … the locavores perk up.”

Still, Ma seems optimistic.

At press time, he was seriously weighing his expansion plans/relocation options.

Ma pointed to the recently shuttered Panjshir II spot right down the road in Vienna as an ideal location, but suggests that the financials haven’t yet lined up to claim that specific parcel. So he’s also scouting locations in Falls Church and near Virginia Square.

If determination alone were enough, I suspect we’d be seeing Maple Ave 2.0 much sooner rather than later.

But until reality catches up to his ambition, Ma will wait. And plan.

Perhaps he’ll go a tad tonier the next time around. Just don’t expect anything too fancy.

“We’d want to make it a little more fine dining than it is here. But not so we couldn’t put a funnel cake on the menu,” Ma predicts.

Maple Ave
147 Maple Ave. W., Vienna; 703-319-2177; www.mapleaverestaurant.com

Hours: Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
Prices: Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$).

(January 2011)