Posts Tagged ‘restaurant’
Posted by Warren Rojas / Tuesday, March 1st, 2011
It doesn’t get much more mom-and-pop than Fredericksburg’s Bistro Bethem:
(Image: Aby Bethem)
Northern Virginia native Blake Bethem, a Marine Corps vet turned Johnson & Wales grad, manages the back of the house while his wife, Aby, deals with the front/business side of the hospitality equation. Bethem deals primarily in classic French gastronomy, but also pays tribute to the local foodshed by featuring seasonal ingredients and some Southern accents.
WR: Salt. Pepper. What other spices/herbs could you not live without?
BB: Fennel seed and coriander.
WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered? How long did it take? Do you still make it today?
BB (as related to/by Aby Bethem): I will answer with gelato. (May not be the first, but it’s a good example). It was a passion of his [Blake's] to master an ice cream recipe starting in 2005. We researched and spent a considerable amount of money on a high end ice cream machine. Then it took many months of ‘tweaking’ the recipe for the base, so that it held correctly in our freezer, the way we serve it, flavor, etc. Finally, I remember the exciting day when he decided we had it figured out. More of a gelato style. Yes, we serve a lot of it. A staple component to our dessert menu. Now it’s more about experimenting with the flavor combinations. I saw a bag of mini marshmellows [sic] come in yesterday, so…
WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?
BB: Pea shoots. A glimpse of spring. Bright, green, fresh, etc. Gets you excited thinking of all the new fresh things that will be available soon. This past weekend, we had quail with a wild rice and pea shoot stuffing. Salmon topped with wilted pea shoots. Used as a garnish/topping.
WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …
BB: Momofuku by David Chang. I think it’s more about the philosophy being used.
“Momofuku is the anti-restaurant. The food eludes easy, or really any, classification. There is a focus on good technique, on seasonality and sustainability, on intelligent and informed creativity. But it is deliciousness by any means that they’re really going for.” – Peter Meehan
That motto is something that Blake has always done with our menu, it’s just seeing it in such a lovely book. Items I have seen incorporated on our menu recently: confit of fingerling potatoes, kim chi
WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you make it again?
BB: Foie Gras Tourchon–because there are a lot of factors that if not done perfectly will cause the dish to fail. Kind of like baking: it’s delicate, time consuming, temperature is the key. Yes, he will make it again and again.
WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to collaborate with …
BB: Terrence Gallivan, he is a close friend and a talented chef. Chef Gallivan grew up here in Fredericksburg. He worked in several restaurants in town during high school. After high school and during his early 20’s he worked with Blake at the restaurant here, (before we owned it), Bistro 309. It was with Blake that he realized that he wanted to go to culinary school. He has with hard work, drive and dedication worked in very reputable New York city restaurants. Working together is not something that would be relevant any time in the close future. I guess in a “maybe” situation, they would explore a “pop up” restaurant concept together, many years down the road–just for fun.
WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for yourself?
BB: English muffin with peanut butter. Simple, quick, protein and out the door. When you cook all day for others, you tend to not cook at home.
WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss my …
BB: Desserts
WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …
BB: Domaine du Salvard Sauvignon Blanc from Cheverny, France or Hendrick’s gin and our house-made tonic.
————————————————————————————————————————————————
Chef, not to hasten your retirement from Bistro Bethem or anything, but we LOVE the pop-up restaurant plan.
Come back next Tuesday for another helping of Red Meat.
–Warren
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, January 24th, 2011
Maple Ave team proves handy with exotic eats, longs for more elbow room
By Warren Rojas / Photography by Kate Bohler
Ma works his magic on sous vide veal cheek and grilled rapini.
It’s really easy to run out of space on these small tables,” one server sheepishly jokes while struggling to clear away extraneous menus and place settings in time to drop off our battery of dishes before they tumbled from his grasp.
Maple Ave chef/owner Tim Ma can certainly relate.
The one-time engineer cum French Culinary Institute grad bucked the advice of friends and family who warned him against launching his small plate-themed project in late 2009.
He’s been rewarded with a cadre of local followers who regularly file into the oddly shaped and tightly knit location—serviced by nine tables up front, with four more tucked away in the far rear—yet remains frustrated by his inability to properly capitalize on the rising popularity.
“It’s tough to make money here,” the recession-defying restaurateur grouses—though he clearly appreciates his unique predicament. “We’re lucky that we do need more space,” Ma offers.
The main dining room could have been assembled by someone attempting to illustrate the definition of “cozy,” its sage walls adorned with local art (most of it on loan from the neighboring Soundry) while bare wooden tables and chairs are reconfigured at will to accommodate whoever strolls through the front door.
What the location lacks in aesthetic charm the kitchen more than makes up for in culinary artistry.
Maple Ave GM Joey Hernandez taking a well-deserved break.
Ma and his trusted companions, sous chef Nyi Nyi Myint, a Burmese native who spent some time behind the burners at Busaba Eathai while in the UK and is rumored to have cooked for Britain’s royal family, and Nick Seo, a Culinary Institute of America grad who Ma maintains does “a little bit of everything,” are as non-traditional as you can get. The rag-tag trio embraces daring and surprise in lieu of the familiar or formulaic, mining their personal experiences to help compose each carefully orchestrated—and occasionally jarring—dish.
Their carte has run the gamut from caramelized okra drizzled with Thai chili sauce to foie gras-stuffed figs wrapped in duck prosciutto to a sandwich of pulled Polyface pork capped with pickled slaw to a sublime torte sporting alternating tiers of chocolate mousse, homemade peanut butter, chopped pretzels and roasted peanuts. Not to mention the fun they had—think: spicy fried cauliflower, sous vide tuna salad sandwiches and bulgogi banh mi—on their short-lived food truck, Maple Avenue Express (on hiatus until further notice).
“Foie gras and funnel cake don’t [usually] go on the same menu. But somehow, it works,” Ma suggests.
And for the most part, he is right.
A southern standby goes international in a shrimp-and-grits makeover that includes spice-crusted jumbo shrimp, their puffy white flesh studded with freshly cracked black pepper, piquillo peppers-laced grains and crumbly, blueberry-spiked venison sausage.
Surplus pork jowl (a benefit/consequence of getting chummy with local pork baron Steve Baker) was alternately too fatty or tough, proving jerky-like along its thinnest expanses but more luxuriant where the piggy stored its generous padding. A pile of cinnamon-sprinkled, slow-cooked apples offers some TLC to the seared jowl.
Maple Ave’s tightly-knit front dining room.
Bulgogi lettuce wraps, the pork soaked through with orange juice, ginger ale and soy, a la Ma’s mother’s recipe, teeters on the verge of cloying—until bedecked in the caramelized kimchee salvaged from the aforementioned pork jowl platter. The pickled cabbage kicks in just enough sour to cut through the marinade and cements the Korean-ness of the dish.
Melted cheddar seeps into every thirsty crevice of a panko-crusted chicken sandwich that delivers a cocksure, bread-backed crunch that gives way to a juicy-to-the-core breast. Briny pickle chips, truffle mayo and a buttery roll round out the sandwich experience, with herb-flecked fries contributing salt and starch to the dining equation.
A quartet of deep-fried, chocolate-filled dumplings is too cute to deny—at first. Each palm-sized pastry is lightly bubbled on the outside and oozes bittersweet ganache when pierced, eliciting “oohs” and “ahhs” from those who’ve been raised in the era of the omnipresent lava cake. But just a few bites in, I was already wondering why the obviously experimental kitchen didn’t choose to unite the dumplings and side dish of plain vanilla ice cream (dumplings a la mode?). Or perhaps drizzle them with dulce de leche or honey (sopapilla-style) or something?
The sugar-dusted funnel cake, on the other hand, is an undisputed winner. Each mound of fried knottiness— think: giant apple fritters pumped up with helium—slice easily, revealing an extra fluffy, wonderfully flaky interior that you’d swear would go airborne if separated from your fork. The very vanilla bean-y ice cream adds just the right touch of the exotic to the classic carnival fare.
Ma’s passion for creative cooking is matched only by his commitment to sustainable dining. Even though he’s not entirely convinced that the evangelism is worth all the headaches.
“These products don’t come cheap. And the time investment is kind of ridiculous,” he says of the energy he’s expended scouting out regional producers like Polyface Farm and Tuscarora Organic Grower Cooperative.
“Do people come in for that? I think most people don’t. But those who do know [how to] appreciate it and thank us for it,” he says. “The moment you say Polyface … the locavores perk up.”
Still, Ma seems optimistic.
At press time, he was seriously weighing his expansion plans/relocation options.
Ma pointed to the recently shuttered Panjshir II spot right down the road in Vienna as an ideal location, but suggests that the financials haven’t yet lined up to claim that specific parcel. So he’s also scouting locations in Falls Church and near Virginia Square.
If determination alone were enough, I suspect we’d be seeing Maple Ave 2.0 much sooner rather than later.
But until reality catches up to his ambition, Ma will wait. And plan.
Perhaps he’ll go a tad tonier the next time around. Just don’t expect anything too fancy.
“We’d want to make it a little more fine dining than it is here. But not so we couldn’t put a funnel cake on the menu,” Ma predicts.
Maple Ave
147 Maple Ave. W., Vienna; 703-319-2177; www.mapleaverestaurant.com
Hours: Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
Prices: Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$).
(January 2011)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, May 7th, 2010
- Irish Breakfast
P. Brennan’s occupies the space behind the old Arlington Hardware façade, but in order to create the interior’s mezzanine owners Greg Whelan and Brian Dolphin needed approval from the neighborhood’s civic associations. The neighborhood was very receptive to the new pub, which left the Irish owners content as they wanted to create a contemporary version of the traditional Irish Public House that would be family friendly and bring the neighborhood together.
Whelan and Dolphin, who also own McGinty’s Pub, want to cater to everyone, “from 21 to 81.” That’s the feeling I got on Thursday night as I tasted small bites of Executive Chef Trent Conry’s menu and spoke with Whelan, his wife Emma, and General Manager/part owner, Mark. The bar was just about full with suit types and sports fans while the main dining areas were filled with families of all ages.
The interior is reflective of their late friend “Little Pat” Brennan’s personality, whom the bar is named after. A portrait of “Little Pat” greets you as you enter the restaurant. It’s painted by the same person who painted The Auld Shebeen, where Mark used to be a regular while studying at George Mason and Dolphin is still a partner. The 47 foot bar, the stairs, and the pickets are handcrafted by an Irish carpenter.
Pat Brennan had just passed away in 2008 and the idea of a bar named after him was brewing when Whelan and Dolphin were presented with the opportunity to open a bar in a new location. They decided to go for it. Fast forward 15 months, and P. Brennan’s is the first Irish pub on Columbia Pike, right across from Arlington Cinema & Draft House. It’s just one of several new additions as part of the Columbia Pike Revitalization.
Born and raised in pubs, Whelan says the hospitality industry fits him well. He jokes Mark was their #1 customer (when Auld Shebeen used to be known as Ned Devine’s) and asked him to join them as they opened both of their McGinty’s locations and P. Brennan’s. Who knew you could make the gradual switch from bar regular to part-owner.
Executive Chef Trent Conry presenting Corned Beef & Cabbage, Beef Stew, and Wexford Lamb Stew
Executive Chef Trent Conry, formerly of Ardeo and 701, notes that everything on the menu is $20 or less, which is great for customers during this economy. While it was a slight challenge to create the traditional Irish portion of the menu (Whelan and Dolphin are from different regions of Ireland), he has the flexibility to change the menu to accomodate the neighborhood.
The restaurant will serve brunch, lunch, dinner, and late night dishes.
DC Gluttony blogger, Khristina, and I enjoyed a tasting of Irish Breakfast, Corned Beef and Cabbage, Beef Stew, Wexford Lamb Stew, Shepherd’s Pie, Roasted Beet Salad, and Grilled Marinated Calamari. It’s not your typical bland Irish food (no offense to anyone who is Irish, but I’ve had some bad Irish food in the past) as Chef Trent puts his personal touch on each item.
Emma’s favorite dish is the calamari while Greg enjoys the Fish & Chips since it reminds him of being back in Ireland. Of the ones I tasted, my favorite was the Irish Breakfast.
P. Brennan’s has a variety of wines and beers, including 16 drafts on tap. Weekly live entertainment is in the works, with traditional Irish music on Sundays and trivia on Tuesdays. P. Brennan’s plans on having events during the World Cup, perhaps even in spite of France and the Thierry Henry handball scandal. Looks like I may have found a new watering hole during the Cup.
P. Brennan’s official Grand Opening is this Saturday, May 8th at 7p.m. The event will feature live, traditional music and a performance by Eddie Pasa at 9p.m. Prizes will be availabe throughout the night. “Little Pat’s” wife will be in attendance as will co-owner Brian Dolphin’s family from Ireland.
(Note: the food portions presented here are much smaller than the menu portions as we were given a tasting menu).
–Aisha Salazar
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, March 4th, 2010
On Tuesday I sat in on a chef audition for the new Mason Inn Conference Center & Hotel, which is scheduled to open this July in Fairfax, Virginia. The Mason Inn is a new addition to the George Mason University campus and will be a LEED certified Silver facility with 150 guest rooms, a conference center with two ballrooms and 11 meeting spaces, and a restaurant and lounge.
The Mason Inn is run by Aramark Conference Centers, which reviewed over 100 resumes in search of a new chef that embraces the Mason spirit. Shannon Sparrow, the Mason Inn’s Human Resource Manager, assured me the new chef would be passionate, not only about their work but about the university and the surrounding community, “The chef has to value and embrace the spirit of George Mason University and match the quality of the University.”
Applicants went through a four-stage process including a phone screening, an on-site interview, a technical interview with the corporate chef, and lastly, a tasting menu.
Image: Dianne Murphy
The few chefs that make it to the final tasting round face a grocery bag with unknown contents and have two hours to prepare and present two plates of two courses each for a panel of five judges.
Tuesday’s chef was provided the following ingredients: Branzino fish (also known as bronzini, spigolo, or Mediterranean seabass), a whole chicken, several vegetables, pasta, risotto, and couscous.
The accomplished chef prepared a salad in addition to the main courses consisting of mixed greens, blood oranges, tomatoes, and a tasty dressing. The first course consisted of a filet of Branzino with mushrooms and tarragon risotto in a flavorful fish stock. The second course consisted of chicken stuffed with goat cheese and shallots over asparagus and pasta lightly drenched in garlic sauce. I found all the dishes to be delicious, especially the second dish.
The Aramark team will cater to two markets:
- 1. Conferences/ meetings with a fresh, healthy, nutritious yet edgy and fun menu throughout the week.
2. Weekend/ social events, which include celebratory and special events such as weddings that can also serve the local community.
Image: Newly appointed Chef Marc preparing the tasting menu. Photo by Dianne Murphy.
The yet-to-be-named restaurant and lounge will seat approximately 175 guests and the conference center will cater up to 400 wedding guests and a couple thousand conference attendees across campus. The restaurant and lounge will be open to the public and the Mason Inn will also have its own catering license.
The newly appointed Food and Beverage Director, Andrew Saba, formerly of Loews Annapolis Hotel, brings a wealth of experience to The Mason Inn (Marcels, The Watergate Hotel, Tabard Inn). He hopes to host wine and beer dinners and partner with local farmers and cheese makers within a 90 mile radius in order to serve local, sustainable foods.
The atmosphere will revolve around three areas: pride, passion, and perfection. The Mason Inn and its employees are proud of George Mason—the man and the university—and Fairfax and the surrounding community.
–Aisha Salazar
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010
Image: Dining Out For Life
This year I have decided to be a Restaurant Ambassador for Dining Out For Life, a national event that raises money to benefit patients with life challenging illnesses.
Dining Out For Life will kick off in the Washington, DC area on Thursday, March 11th. 147 restaurants around DC, Virginia, and Maryland will be participating. Almost 40 restaurants will be participating in Northern Virginia. Reservations are recommended to reduce the wait time.
In the DC area, Dining Out For Life partners with Food & Friends, an organization that provides nutritious meals to individuals battling HIV/AIDS, cancer, and other life threatening illnesses.
On March 11, all food and beverage sales at participating restaurants will benefit Food & Friends. 25-110% of your bill will be donated to this great organization. All you have to do is dine out!
Three restaurants—Annie’s Paramount Steak House, Posto, and Tosca—are donating 100% of their sales. Freddie’s Beach Bar is donating 110% of its sales!
Any donation of $35 or more will be matched dollar for dollar by the Food & Friends’ Board of Directors. $35 will provide an individual with 1.5 to 2 days worth of meals; that’s almost 6 meals!!!
Stacey England, Special Events Manager of Food & Friends, hopes people, “Get together with friends and do something great for a local non-profit. It’s an amazing event and just by eating you’re helping out.” She encourages people to volunteer their time, in addition to dining out on March 11th.
So grab your friends, family or co-workers and enjoy some lunch or dinner while helping out your neighbors!
Image: Food and Friends
On a daily basis, Food & Friends prepares, packages and delivers more than 3,000 free meals to children and adults within Washington, DC and 14 counties in Maryland and Virginia. Eleven specialized meal plans are offered and tailored to different illnesses, treatment programs and client preferences.
This year marks Food & Friends’ 14th year participating in Dining Out for Life. Last year Dining Out For Life raised over $270,000 for Food & Friends; $85,000 was just from diner contributions. Each participating restaurant is in an area served by Food & Friends.
Food & Friends needs volunteers daily in the kitchen and especially for deliveries. Deliveries take place 10am to 3pm Monday through Saturday. For more information, call 202-269-6835.
My personal goal is to raise $500 for Food & Friends. If you would like to help me out, visit my Dining Out For Life page.
I will meet and greet guests and take donations at Open Kitchen and Vespucci, which was included in our Best New Restaurants roundup in 2007.
I will be at Open Kitchen (donating 35%) for lunch and Vespucci (donating 25%) for dinner.
Hope to see you on the 11th!
–Aisha Salazar
Food Network Seeking New Talent
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, February 18th, 2010
(Image: Pop Culture Madness)
Think you have what it takes to become a Food Network star and have your own restaurant?
Here’s your chance.
The Food Network will be casting two teams for a new series, 24 Hour Restaurant Battle.
The show involves two teams competing to design a restaurant within 24 hours. Similar to “Restaurant Wars” on Top Chef, contestants have to create the restaurant’s concept, décor, and menu. Restaurants will be judged and the winner receives money toward a new restaurant.
There will be a casting call in Washington, DC on Monday, February 22 from 10am-3pm at Zentan Restaurant at the Donovan House Hotel.
The producers are looking for three things:
1. Two to five person teams with pre-existing relationships (such as siblings, best friends, parent and child, etc.)
2. Skills to run a restaurant. Any level of restaurant/culinary experience is acceptable. That means you can have little to no culinary training or restaurant experience. They want to make sure one person can run the front of the house while the other person can handle the kitchen.
3. Personality. Anyone who is charismatic, outgoing, energetic, or charming should apply.
Make sure to read over the rules and fill out the application prior to attending the casting call. For more information, contact casting24dc@gmail.com
If you do decide to compete, let us know how it goes!
Good luck!
–Aisha Salazar
James Beard Award Semifinalists Announced
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, February 18th, 2010
The James Beard Foundation has announced its 2010 semifinalists for the Restaurant and Chef Awards. Twenty-two D.C., Virginia, and Maryland restaurants are represented; a significant honor and indication that the D.C. region is a culinary hot spot.
Congratulations to all of the nominees!
Outstanding Restaurateur
* Ashok Bajaj, 701/Ardeo/Bardeo/Bibiana Osteria-Enoteca/The Bombay Club/The Oval Room/Rasika – D.C.
Outstanding Chef
* Jose Andres, minibar – D.C.
Image: SF Weekly
Outstanding Restaurant
* Vidalia – D.C.
Rising Star Chef of the Year
* Johnny Monis, Komi – D.C.
Best New Restaurant
* Eventide
* J & G Steakhouse – D.C.
Outstanding Pastry Chef
* Amanda Cook, CityZen – D.C.
Outstanding Wine Service
Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional
Image: Jonathan Timmes
* Derek Brown, The Passenger – D.C.
Outstanding Service
* Marcel’s – D.C.
Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic
* Cathal Armstrong, Restaurant Eve
* Tony Conte, The Oval Room – D.C.
* Melissa Close Hart, Palladio at Barboursville Vineyards
* Peter Pastan, Obelisk - D.C.
* Dale Reitzer, Acacia
* Vikram Sunderam, Rasika- D.C.
* Bryan Voltaggio, Volt – Md.
The five finalists in each category will be unveiled March 22, with the winners honored at the May 3rd Beard Foundation awards gala in New York.
–Aisha Salazar
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Tuesday, February 16th, 2010
Image: Cajun Grocer
Mardi Gras. Carnival. Fat Tuesday. Shrove Tuesday. Pancake Day.
Whatever you want to call it, it’s time to participate in some serious celebrating at local restaurants.
-Throw on the party beads and eat your King Cake at 2941. In honor of Mardi Gras, all diners will receive a complimentary King Cake today, regardless if you order off the prix-fixe four-course menu or a la carte.
-Fat Tuesday’s will have several bands performing throughout the evening, starting at 3 p.m.
-Clyde’s at Mark Center will have their annual Mardi Gras party featuring live music starting at 6 p.m. For $25 enjoy an all-you-can-eat crawfish boil with corn, potatoes and andouille sausage.
-Buzz will have King Cakes all day.
-The 2nd Annual Mardi Gras on King Street will take place at the Fish Market. Celebrate five days of Mardi Gras with traditional New Orleans style cuisine and cocktails. The festivities begin tonight with music by DC Motors and end with a masquerade ball on Saturday, February 20. There will be a charity bead toss and Mardi Gras Masks available to benefit Multiple Sclerosis.
-King Street Blues will offer “Cajun Specials” all day, including several po’boy varieties, jambalaya pasta and red beans.
-Try one of Trummer’s on Main’s signature cocktails from New Orleans, Brazil and Italy. Don’t forget to wear your masks, costumes or beads for 25 percent off special cocktails, beer and wine.
-Join Okra’s Louisiana Bistro for their annual Mardi Gras pub crawl and Cajun cuisine.
-Liberty Tavern will have $4 Abita Purple Haze and $5 Hurricanes all day long.
- Union Jacks will host a Mardi Gras Bash tonight. Collect the most beads and you can win a trip to the Caribbean. Their Creole menu includes shrimp po’boys, etouffee, and bananas foster. The celebration begins at 4 p.m.
-Learn to make classic New Orleans dishes at Open Kitchen. The menu includes crawfish etouffee and seafood and andouille sausage gumbo. $75; 7-10 p.m.
-On Wednesday, February 17, Chef Roberto Donna will host a six-course ‘Il Carnavale’ Dinner at his private residence. The menu includes stuffed lamb chops with braised chicory and Piemontese style rice fritters in parmesan cheese sauce. $100 per person. Email tambolisa1@aol.com to make a reservation.
-On Saturday, Feb 20 Sunset Hill Vineyards celebrates Mardi Gras with a special Cajun menu and live music by the Yvonne Johnson Jazz Trip from 12-6 p.m. Don’t forget to wear your purple, gold, and green!
-IHOP celebrates National Pancake Day on February 23 this year from 7 a.m.- 10 p.m. Guests will receive a short stack of pancakes for free. While you’re there, help others by donating to the Children’s Miracle Network or other local charities.
Laissez les bons temps rouler!
Eventide Rolls Out Bar Reinforcements
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Friday, October 23rd, 2009
Seems thirsty patrons have been showing Eventide‘s first floor so much love, management would like to respond in kind.
Expect more substantial dining options–a line-up which is set to include: lobster pot pie, chicken and dumplings (in sage gravy), butternut squash-risotto fritters and (be still, my beating heart!) fried chicken and waffles; local favorites like herb french fries, barbecue bison sliders and homemade soft pretzels are also sticking around–to crop up on the lounge menu over the next few days.
Eventide GM Dave Pressley says the full menu should be implemented by Wednesday, October 28.
–Warren
Just a Taste: Trummer’s on Main
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, August 19th, 2009
(Image: Trummer’s)
Historic Clifton got a little more scenic last month once Trummer’s on Main finally let in all the gawkers (present company included) who’d anxiously watched construction teams touch-up the long-standing structure.
I’m pleased to report: the wait appears to have been worth it.
Co-owners Victoria and Stefan Trummer renovated every inch of the three-story restaurant, beginning with the chic bar (stoney, sleek and very inviting), glass-encased “winter garden,” artsy top floor “gallery” and zen patio (the soundtrack provided by a gurgling fountain and passing trains cuts through the static of everyday life).
Sommelier Tyler Packwood (formerly of the Inn at Little Washington) and Stefan Trummer (NYC cocktail guru) work in concert to sate any liquid wants (sadly, the cocktails have been my least favorite thing–at least, so far).
Solids are handled by chef Clayton Miller, who adeptly folds the gourmet into everyday favorites (roast pork, tangy blue cheese and dulcet blackberries embrace beneath a buttermilk biscuit; brined chicken and mashed peas elevate comfort food several notches).
Meanwhile, a three-course Sunday brunch ($28) went live just a few weeks back.
–Warren