Zagat: By the Numbers

The first family of hospitality crowd-sourcing, Nina and Tim Zagat, have released the results of their 2011 Washington D.C./Baltimore survey, an all-too-familiar litany–the Inn at Little Washington continues its decade-long streak of ping-ponging back and forth between the #1 and #2 spots for food; Restaurant Eve remains firmly entrenched in the food top 10–which I highly doubt will surprise any fine dining aficionados or even casual gourmands.

I was, however, interested to see how the D.C./Charm City surveyors stack up against other markets and how often they hit the streets in search of a good meal.

According to Zagat’s, there are roughly 6,500 surveyors actively evaluating 2,400 meals per day across the D.C./Baltimore corridor. While that sounds like a whole lot of eating, our area ranks second-to-last in surveyor meals per week (2.6).

Texans, on the other hand, have gorged themselves into four of the top five spots (Houston – 4 meals per week, Austin/Hill Country – 3.8, Dallas/Forth Worth – 3.6, San Antonio – 3.5).

The economy, of course, is partly to blame.

Approximately 40 percent of local surveyors admitted to eating out less because of forced belt-tightening, while another third of those surveyed copped to more carefully eyeing menu prices when they do step out.

On the upside, over half of the surveyors said lean times have prompted restaurants to beef up their dining deals while approaching 45 percent said the downturn has rekindled a passion for home cooking.

Amateur food sleuths might also be interested to know that Zagat’s stable of local food spies skews female (51 percent) and relies heavily on retirees (60+ year olds comprise 25 percent of their core constituency)–though Gen Xers (30-year olds) and late Boomers (50s and up) account for 23 and 22 percent (respectively) of the roving reporting crew.

Rankings-wise, NoVA restaurants seemed to do pretty well.

We claimed six of the top 20 food slots:

* Inn at Little Washington (2)

* Restaurant Eve (7)

* L’Auberge Provencale (10)

* L’Auberge Chez Francois (15)

* 2941 (16)

* GoolDaeGee (19)

Seven of the top 24 cuisine categories:

* New American: Inn at Little Washington

* Chinese: Peking Gourmet

* Classic French: L’Auberge Provencale

* South American: El Pollo Rico

* Southwest/Tex-Mex: Sweetwater Tavern

* Thai: Thai Square

* Vietnamese: Four Sisters

And scored a handful of entries in the 20 “Key Newcomers” list:

* Maple Ave

* Pizzeria Orso

* Trummer’s on Main

Would love to hear what you all think of the current crop of popularly appointed dining champs AND/OR the Zagat’s scouts among us.

–Warren

Tags: 2011 Zagat survey, 2941, Baltimore, El Pollo Rico, Four Sisters, GoolDaeGee, Gut Check, hospitality, Inn at Little Washington, L'Auberge Chez Francois, L'Auberge Provencale, Maple Ave, Northern Virginia, Northern Virginia Magazine, Peking Gourmet, Pizzeria Orso, Restaurant Eve, restaurants, Sweetwater Tavern, Thai Sqaure, Trummer's on Main, Warren Rojas, Washington D.C.

Just A Taste: Pizzeria Orso

“I’m glad I came. They’ve redeemed themselves,” my companion decreed after revisiting Falls Church’s most highly anticipated Neapolitan pie haven, Pizzeria Orso.

Like many of the online backbiters, my friend had raced to try pizza poet Edan MacQuaid’s nascent solo project shortly after opening–and had wandered away sorely disappointed (”How can pizza be soggy AND burnt?”).

I must admit, I fully expected the wheels to come off once our mop-headed, heavily tattooed teen server began popping off at the mouth about freshly shaved, raw porcinis and waves of splashy San Marzano tomatoes. But either that kid was doing an Oscar-worthy job of parroting management’s carefully crafted, gourmand-stroking spiel or staff have accepted MacQuaid’s deep, abiding love for seasonal spoils and artisan ingredients as their own personal mantras.

I’m leaning towards the latter.

Sweet, milky burrata virtually shimmies atop a mouthwatering slice of oil-packed tomato, which is itself supported by a garlic-rubbed, oil-bathed slice of artfully seared sourdough (handmade by fellow flour slinger and 2941 cohort, Patrick Deiss).

Meanwhile, MacQuaid indefatigably polices his showpiece pizza oven (pictured above), hustling items out promptly before the DOC-sanctioned, 90-second cooking window expires.

I’d say each pizza and/or panuozzo spends roughly 2/3 of its minute-and-a-half firing time diametrically opposed to the blistering heat source, only to be paraded to within inches of the flames just prior to evacuation so that every inch of the crust bubbles, bulges and chars to maximum effect.

The resulting crust is fluffier than some folks may be used to. But I found the combination of ash, encrusted sea salt and liberal olive oiling most intoxicating.

And don’t even get me started on the basil.

Whether fully intact atop a classic Margherita or finely ground into homemade pesto (another extra virgin olive oil-led triumph), the captivating herb is quite obviously one of MacQuaid’s favorite muses.  Though I think a similar case could be made for Orso’s marvelous dairy (tongue-teasing ricotta anyone?).

Now, if only MacQuaid would make good on the promised cannolis already…(”They’re coming,” a seemingly just as anxious staffer said of the not-quite-ready-for-prime-time dessert).

–Warren

Tags: Edan MacQuaid, Falls Church, food, Gut Check, Neapolitan pizza, Northern Virginia Magazine, Patrick Deiss, Pizzeria Orso, restaurants, Thea MacQuaid, Warren Rojas, Wicked Bread

Fans Filch Resto Hallmarks

Never mind holding out hope for any kind of economic turnaround.

Alexandria restaurant folks have recently been forced to recover signature items that have taken to wandering off.

The latest business owner waylaid by sticky fingers is BGR founder Mark Bucher,  whose double-sided burger placard (usually parked right at the corner of King and North Washington Streets) vanished late Monday night.

Though Bucher is clearing having fun with his cyber-dragnet, Jackson 20 executive chef Dennis Marron was obviously distressed after learning that late-night revelers had shoved restaurant mascot “Bessie” into a cab and sped off into the darkness about a month ago.

Luckily for Marron (and all the Bessie lovers out there), the iconic pig was returned the following morning–presumably after the offending party sobered up/figured out the bronze figurine wouldn’t net him one thin dime on Cash4Gold.

–Warren

Tags: BGR, Dennis Marron, Gut Check, hospitality, Jackson 20, Mark Bucher, Northern Virginia Magazine, Old Town Alexandria, restaurants, theft, Warren Rojas

No Fractured Prune Fix for NoVA

(Image: The DC Traveler)

Had you asked me a few years ago what baked good would propel otherwise rational people into a buying frenzy, I would’ve bet dollars to doughnuts on, well, homemade doughnuts ahead of ridiculously overpriced cupcakes.

So glad I’m no longer a betting man.

The bellwether upon which I had based my terribly misinformed worldview was the sudden influx of Ocean City’s undisputed breakfast sweets king, The Fractured Prune, into the NoVA burbs in late 2007.

The then 31-year-old-company laid out ambitious plans to franchise across our area, promising to introduce non-beach goers to their brand of totally customizable, hand-dipped donuts.

Three years and four shops later: they’re all gone.

The Fairfax shop led the charge, but appears to have folded its tent in late 2009. Dulles seems to have succumbed around the same time. By all accounts the Leesburg and South Riding shops were still kicking this winter, but have since given up the ghost.

So, how does a donut dynasty go completely belly up in under 32 months?

Corporate remains tight-lipped about the frustrating experience, stating only that the franchisees “asked the corporate officers not to discuss.” The Fractured Prune spokesperson added, “we have received many e-mails from Fractured Prune customers in the area expressing their disappointment at the closings, a feeling we here share.”

At the moment, there are no new FP franchisees lined up to take another crack at the Commonwealth.

–Warren

Tags: Chantilly, donuts, Dulles, Fairfax, food, Fractured Prune, Gut Check, hospitality industry, Nothern Virginia Magazine, restaurants, South Riding, Sterling, Warren Rojas, Yelp

Just A Taste: Northside Social

Mind you, they’ve only been baking and a-brewing for about a week.

But Northside Social founder Stephen Fedorchak insists management sees plenty of room for improvement.

“We’re our own toughest critics,” Fedorchak said of the auto-scrutiny and fine-tuning NS staff are applying to the combo coffee shop/artisan bakery/wine bar. He noted that the public response has been very encouraging.

“People are hanging out outside. There are dogs, kids and neighbors … which is exactly what we wanted,” Fedorchak said.

The completely remodeled space bares little resemblance to its more bohemian predecessor, Murky Coffee.

Northside boasts four, inviting seating environments: a sun-splashed, streetside patio, the mixed-use main dining room (retail shelves tempt line standers with gourmet blends of Counter Culture coffee and fresh-baked artisan breads; refurbished chairs and galvanized buckets recast as light fixtures offer guests reclamation-inspired comfort), a cozy, library-style rear lounge (complete with communal bookshelf; pictured at right) and the farmer’s table-style wine bar located upstairs (antique backgammon table is pretty cool, too).

The wine bar remains very much a work in progress, according to Fedorchak. He said the plan is to open it up every night (except Sunday) from 4 p.m. till … well, till the crowds clear out–which will most likely be on the earlier side at the beginning of the week and much later from Humpday on (currently open past midnight from Wednesday – Saturday).

Meanwhile, general manager/sommelier Alison Christ has pieced together a very approachable craft beer and boutique wine program with an eye on value and variety (though, sadly, no Virginia wines).

Pastry chef Rob Valencia knows from moist cakes, whipping up a rotating roster of signature coffee cakes (vanilla painted with a lip-smacking lemon glaze comes to mind), cookies and brownies whose fans will, no doubt, be legion.

I fear that savory options, on the other hand, may be limited by the truncated kitchen set-up (only heating elements I spotted were a pair of panini presses). That said, a pork belly–advertised as “crispy;” turned out more brisket tender (an unintended win in my book)–and broccoli rabe pairing proved so scrumptious, I was soon left with a lap full of ciabatta crumbs and a gnawing desire to scoop up an encore serving for the road.

With Northside (finally) up and running, Fedorchak has now turned his attention to breaking the seal on companion project, Lyon Hall.

“We’ll open Lyon Hall this week,” Fedorchak pledged, touting a Thursday debut–while reserving the right to back things up till Saturday–as go-time for the highly anticipated brasserie.

–Warren

Tags: Alison Christ, Arlington, Bakery, Clarendson, coffee, Gut Check, Liam LaCivita, Northern Virginia Magazine, Northside Social, restaurants, Stephen Fedorchak, Warren Rojas, wine bar

F&W Taps Miller, Shields for Best New Chefs 2010

(Image: Melany Bundy Mullens)

Last night, Food& Wine named its Best New Chefs for 2010–a culinary who’s who which includes Trummer’s on Main toque Clayton Miller (above left) and Town House chef John Shields (above right).

Other local BNC alumni include Cathal Armstrong (2006) and Dale Reitzer (1999).

We’ve trumpeted the epicurean daring of Miller and Shields (and the wisdom of their respective restaurants for bringing them aboard) in the pages of our magazine, and are glad to see our national peers honor the exemplary cooking taking place around the Commonwealth.

Congrats chefs! Enjoy your trip to Aspen!

–Warren

Tags: awards, Clayton Miller, Food & Wine, Gut Check, hospitality industry, John Shields, Northern Virginia Magazine, restaurants, Town House, Trummer's on Main, Warren Rojas

How Bazaar

While strolling down Miami’s infamous A1A, I spotted a very familiar name (see above) in a most unexpected spot.

“So, South Florida gets a taste of the much lauded Bazaar before the home team?” I thought, somewhat despondently, to myself.

Turns out, my temporary gall was completely unwarranted.

“We don’t have any concrete plans at this point to open anything there,” a ThinkFoodGroup aide informed me, chalking up the expansion confusion to overly aggressive branding by SBE.

At press time, SBE had not responded to multiple emails regarding the Bazaar spin-off or their plans for the under renovation Ritz Plaza.

–Warren

Tags: gourmet dining, Gut Check, hospitality industry, José Andrés, Northern Virginia Magazine, restaurants, Ritz Plaza, SBE, South Beach, The Bazaar, Warren Rojas

National Food News

In the past few days there have been some important developments regarding calories, nutrition, bees, food safety, and antibiotics in animals.

So Long Salt

A healthy competition is brewing among food companies.  Kraft Foods announced last week that it would reduce the amount of salt in its North American products by an average of 10 percent.  Don’t worry salt aficionados; the change will occur over the next two years.  Over 1,000 products will be affected, including Oscar Meyer Bologna, Easy Mac, and Velveeta.  A good move considering salt contributes to high blood pressure, which can then cause stroke, kidney disease, heart disease, and heart failure. 

Kraft is not the first company to cut sodium in its products; Campbell Soup Co and ConAgra has made similar statements this past year.  PepsiCo just announced its plans to reduce salt by an average of 25% by 2015.  Pepsi also stated it would stop selling full-sugar soft drinks at primary and secondary schools by 2012 and reduce the saturated fat per serving by 15% by 2020 and average added sugar per serving in beverages by 25% by 2020.

Tough Shuck

Image: US Army

This past Tuesday the Virginia Marine Resource commission discussed new FDA regulations preventing the sale of contaminated oysters that are harvested during warm water months.  Although the majority of contaminated oysters that cause food borne illness come from the Gulf of Mexico, Virginia is trying to reduce the number of incidents.  Each year 15 people due from eating oysters contaminated with bacteria; 1 death has been linked to Virginia waters. 

If FDA finds another contaminated oyster to be sold by Virginia seafood suppliers, raw oysters will be prohibited from being shipped outside state lines.  New rules within the industry are being considered by next month.

Antibiotics Ban

New legislation has been announced regarding antibiotics in animals.  The Preservation of Antibiotics for Medical Treatment Act (HR 1549) and its companion bill in the Senate (S. 619) would prevent veterinarians and producers from using antibiotics in the absence of any clinical sign of disease or for nontherapeutic purposes.  To hear the cattle industry perspective, visit the Cattle Network.

Food Safety Comments Open to Public

USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS) is accepting public comment regarding new food safety regulations; comments must be made online or by mail on or before May 24, 2010 and reference FSIS and the docket number “FSIS-2008-0025.”  The new proposed rule requires establishments to:

1) Quickly notify FSIS of any unsafe, unwholesome or misbranded meat or poultry products have entered commerce

2) Prepare and maintain current recall procedures for meat and poultry products produced and shipped

3) Document reassessments of its process control plans or Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point (HACCP) plans

Restaurant Chains Count Calories

Within the new health care legislation, every large restaurant chain will be required to place their calorie information on all menus and drive-through signs.  Based on a similar policy that has taken effect in New York, the federal law requires restaurants with 20 or more stores to reveal the calorie amount on their products and inform consumers about the healthy daily calorie intake.  Restaurant chains fully support the legislation; however it may be years until calorie information is made public to consumers.

Image: Fox News

Hunger-Free Kids Act

The Senate Committee on Agriculture, Nutrition, and Forestry unanimously approved the Hunger-Free Kids Act of 2010.  The legislation allows for $4.5 billion in new child nutrition program funding over the next 10 years, allows USDA to set national nutritional standards for foods sold on school campuses, could increase the enrollment in the NSLP, and provide high poverty schools with options for universal free meal services.  Secretary Vilsack believed $10 billion over ten years as a better number.  The bill heads to the Senate floor next.

Buzz Off

Honeybees are still disappearing and the harsh winter hasn’t helped.  New research will be conducted on pesticide use—which federal courts believe the EPA overlooked—after a Public Library of Science study found 3 out of 5 pollen and wax samples to contain systematic pesticides.  The pesticides are not used on honey sold to consumers, but the lack of bees is alarming.  Bees play an important role in the food supply as crop pollinators.

That’s just a little taste of what’s going on nationally.

–Aisha Salazar

Tags: Aisha Salazar, antibiotics, calories, food safety, Gut Check, honeybees, Hunger-Free Kids Act, Northern Virginia Magazine, oysters, restaurants, salt, Virginia

NoVA Well Represented in 2010 RAMMY Race

(Image: RAMW)

Restaurant awards season is now officially underway, with the James Beard Foundation unveiling its 2010 finalists yesterday and the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington shining a light on the D.C.-Metro area’s culinary superstars today.

Though they are two very different competitions, there are at least one pair of hometown hopefuls in the running for both the national Beard Awards and local honors: restaurateur Jose Andres–whose minibar has him in contention for a Fine Dining RAMMY and Beard’s Outstanding Chef award–and CityZen pastry chef Amanda Cook (nominated for her delectable sweets by both hospitality scrutinizing bodies).

Meanwhile, Northern Virginia restaurants figure prominently in nine of the 14 RAMMY categories, including:

* Fine Dining: 2941

*Upscale Casual: Liberty Tavern, Vermilion

* Neighborhood Gathering Place: EatBar

* New Restaurant: Eventide, Inox

* Chef: Bertrand Chemel/2941

* Rising Culinary Star: Liam LaCivita/Liberty Tavern, Shannon Overmiller/The Majestic, Jon Mathieson/Inox

* Pastry Chef: Anthony Chavez/2941, Josh Short/Buzz (Neighborhood Restaurant Group)

* Wine Program: 2941

* Beverage/Mixology Program: EatGoodFood Group (AKA Todd Thrasher of Restaurant Eve/PX/The Majestic fame)

You can browse the full list of 2010 RAMMY nominees here. The winners will be feted June 6th during an awards gala at the Marriott Wardman Park.

Northern Virginia Magazine would like to congratulate all the nominees–yes, even you D.C. restos–and wish you all the best of luck on awards night!

–Warren

Tags: 2941, Amanda Cook, Anthony Chavez, awards, Bertrand Chemel, Buzz, CityZen, EatBar, EatGoodFood Group, Eventide, food, gala, Gut Check, hospitality industry, Inox, James Beard Foundation, Jon Mathieson, José Andrés, Josh Short, Liam LaCivita, Liberty Tavern, minibar, Neighborhood Restaurant Group, Northern Virginia Magazine, PX, RAMMYs, Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington, Restaurant Eve, restaurants, Shannon Overmiller, The Majestic, Todd Thrasher, Vermilion, Warren Rojas

“Water” You Doing?

Image: Merinews

Yesterday was the international observance of World Water Day and this week is World Water Week.  To celebrate and increase awareness of the global water problem, several local restaurants (including six in VA) will participate in the UNICEF Tap Project from March 21-27.  Restaurants are asking that customers donate $1 or more for the tap water they usually enjoy for free.

According to “Sick Water?”, a report on wastewater management from the United Nations, more people die from polluted water than wars.  Former World Bank Vice President, Ismail Serageldin, believes that “wars in the 21^st century will be fought over water.”  Domestic battles over water are not to be spared.

The UN report also states that much of the wastewater is a result of industrial, animal, agricultural, fertilizer, and sewage run-off.  What’s worse is that 10% of the world’s population is eating food that is grown using wastewater for irrigation and fertilizer.  It’s not only damaging ecosystems but affects human and animal health, spreading disease.  In fact, 1.8 million children under the age of five die each year from water related diseases.  That’s 20 children per second.

Considering agriculture is the single largest user of water, there is a whole chapter dedicated to wastewater, food security, and production.  While most of the water is recycled through the system, the majority becomes contaminated along the way.

According to UNICEF, one out of every five people around the world lack safe drinking water and one out of every two people does not have a sanitary toilet.  In the US, 10% of Americans don’t have access to clean drinking water.

While some may think bottled water is the answer, the majority of bottled water is tap water, which seems to have a few problems of its own.  While DC residents complain of the chlorine smell, it’s much better than ingesting bacteria.

The truth about bottled water will be exposed when the director and producer of the documentary “Tapped” visit Busboys and Poets on April 19^th.   The two women will stop in 30 cities nationwide where they will collect pledges from people willing to reduce their bottled water usage.  That same day people can also trade empty plastic bottles of water for a Klean Kanteen–a refillable water container.

(Video: Tapped)

Plastic is a huge contributor to the largest garbage patch in the ocean in the North Pacific Gyre of the Pacific Ocean—it’s about the size of Texas and floats between Hawaii and San Francisco.

A great way to help reduce water waste is by following The Nature Conservancy water conservation tips.

To learn more about the water crisis, you can catch water-related films at the Environmental Film Festival; several excerpts will be shown today during the ‘Program on Global Water Issues’ at the Carnegie Institution for Science in DC.  You can also join in activities on the Hill today.

For information about Virginia water quality, visit the Virginia Department of Environmental Quality.  Each January the state publishes its “Reduction of Toxics in State Water Report” to summarize and inform the General Assembly of its efforts to reduce toxic products in within Virginia’s waters.

So, water you doing to help??

–Aisha Salazar

Tags: Aisha Salazar, Busboys and Poets, DC, disease, drinking water, food, Gut Check, Northern Virginia Magazine, restaurants, safe, Sick Water, Tap Project, Tapped, UN, UNICEF, Virginia, Virginia Department of Environmental Quality, wastewater, water, World Water Day, World Water Week