Knowing Your Limits

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, March 11th, 2009

Fellow food blogger Mike Johnson (he joined the Endless Simmer ranks a few months ago) today posted a tongue-in-cheek account of how a weekend trip to Ikea reinforced his decision to remain on the periphery of professional food criticism:

Johnson is only too happy to remain blissfully ignorant of what REAL Swedish meatballs

(Photo: champ_des_revs)

should/actually taste like, arguing instead:

Johnson told us he considers himself “an enlightened amateur” when it comes to food appreciation, estimating that he’ll be just fine if a regular restaurant reviewing gig doesn’t turn out to be in the cards.

And what about the D-I-Y speaker plan that lured him to Ikea in the first place?

“Oh, they’re still sitting in the box,” he shared. “But I’ve eaten half of the meatballs. So that part of the project is well under way.”

–Warren Rojas

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Carryout Kingdom

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Tuesday, December 2nd, 2008

Few Seats, Terrific Eats

By Warren Rojas / Photography by James Kim

Come fall, the days start getting shorter, the air gets chillier and your commute—well, that never changes.

So we figured we’d C if we couldn’t take care of dinner while traveling from point A to point B.

Here’s our grab-and-go guide for everything from sushi to made-to-order pizza. And though you might still need to turn the oven on when you get home, we’re pretty confident any dinner companions will gladly clean their plates.

Village Chicken
6230 Rolling Road, Springfield; 703-913-0617
Average entree under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.

Variety seekers would do well to make their way to Village Chicken, a tiny eatery fielding a bounty of mouthwatering chicken, beef and lamb creations.

This strip mall standout never skimps on the gravy, loading up their array of specialty rice bowls, custom salads and bulging gyro sandwiches with as much homemade deliciousness as they can handle.

The namesake Village gyro folds a protein triumvirate of shaved lamb (so tender), chicken (nice spice) and beef into a warm pita filled with lettuce, diced tomatoes, onions and a cooling splash of tzatziki sauce (terrific sandwich). A Cuban sandwich by way of Cyprus summons a doughy pita stuffed with shredded, roast pork and grilled ham, all smothered in a tangy sour cream sauce and flanked by lettuce and diced tomatoes (lacks the crunch of a proper Cuban, but the pork-on-pork power play does not disappoint). A chicken souvlaki salad reveals a forest of field greens bolstered by grilled chicken breast, diced cucumbers, tangy red onions, tomatoes and bits of crumbled feta.

Meanwhile, savory rice bowls layer mixed proteins—including favorites like the Caribbean-style Cuban (rice, black beans, stewed pork, tomatoes) and the home-style chicken chili (pulled chicken, soupy kidney beans, chopped onions, corn)—with mounds of steamed rice, mixed vegetables, assorted cheeses and various sauces.

Jamaica Jamaica
348 Victory Drive, Herndon; 703-481-8641; www.jamaica2x.com
Average entree under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.

It seems almost surreal that one would have to duck back into a Herndon business park for a bite of authentic Jamaican cooking. Then again, this sun-splashed island nation also has a world-famous bobsledding team …

Jamaican ex-pats Lloyd and Simone Washington founded their homey eatery a few years back and have watched their local fan base grow steadily ever since. Between the amazingly affordable prices (nothing is over $9) and generous array of hard-to-find Caribbean favorites (expect a daily array of chicken, oxtail and seafood selections), it’s easy to see why.

Hearty oxtail stew—a clear favorite, given the propensity for it to sell out on busy nights—reveals bulbous nuggets of tender beef (watch the bones) soaked through with spices; accompanying rice and vegetables provide a starchy base for the protein-packed brew. Goat stew summons a melange of curried meat (downright succulent) and vegetables guaranteed to get your heart rate pumping, especially after adding a few drops of the house “beware” sauce (expect a flash of heat, followed by enduring warmth).

As expected, the jerk chicken (the spicy-sweet zing is da ‘ting) remains head and shoulders above their traditional barbecue chicken (decent, but others certainly do it better). Meanwhile, the beef-, chicken- and newly available cheese-filled patties—baked cornmeal pastries brought in from back home—provide a terrific, hand-held alternative for those who tend to eat on the run.

Alvey’s Grocery
4661 Sudley Road, Catharpin; 703-754-4310; www.alveystore.com
Average entree under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Granted, you can now get fairly decent fried or rotisserie chicken on just about every other block. But none of those commercial chicken huts can hang with the sides you’ll find at Alvey’s Grocery.

This family-run grocery seems to live and breathe poultry, hawking budget-friendly chicken specials several days a week—a six-piece, fried chicken meal with your choice of two 1-pound sides is just $8 on Mondays and Fridays, whole rotisserie chickens with two 1-pound sides are $9 on Tuesdays, and a 12-piece fried chicken dinner with two 1-pound sides is $15 on Saturdays.

One deli attendant says fresh rotisserie chickens are prepared daily at 8:30 a.m. and noon, while fried chicken is prepared at all hours. “We make chicken all day,” she insists. Rotisserie birds emerge covered in a bronzed skin that’s flavorful without being overly fatty. The fried chicken can seem a little dry from time to time, but the breadcrumb crust is typically good, and the wonderful homemade sides are always on point.

Chilly favorites include homemade chicken (shredded fowl, celery and some terrific spices) and shrimp salad (shrimp and noodles bound together by a whip-smart mayo-garlic salt blend). Hot bar must-haves include beefaroni (eat your heart out, Chef Boyardee), broccoli and rice (deadly delicious mess of diced broccoli and rice is stick-to-your-ribs terrific) or classic franks and beans (beefy hot dog bits swimming in a sea of savory-sweet baked beans). Best of all, the hot bar selections switch daily, running from international (Wednesday – Asian, Thursday – Spanish) to Friday’s All-American lineup.

America Seafood
4550 Lee Highway, Arlington; 703-522-8080
Average entree $13 to $20 ($$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.

That first bite gets me every time.

The crunch of the spice-laden filet starts my head swimming. The tang of the herby, homemade tartar sauce makes me pine for a lime-spiked beer. By the time I feel that momentary sting of sliding into a sun-warmed chair on the America Seafood patio, I almost believe I’m back at the beach.

That is, until the blaring horns on Lee Highway rattle me out of my landlocked daydream.

Owner Gary Royce brings the best of the sea to Beltway-bound drones via a variety of daily soups (crab, grouper and New England clam chowder), homemade salads (grilled tuna, smoked mussels, shrimp vinaigrette) and robust specialty platters (conch fritters, sauteed salmon, fried, soft-shell crabs). Virtually all the fresh seafood on hand can be made into a generously sized sub of your choosing.

A serving of grilled swordfish summons a hefty steak sporting a properly charred exterior and tender white meat within (ready to rock with just a squeeze of lemon). The fried scallop platter brings more than a dozen tender scallops encased in a crunchy, herb-breadcrumb shell (well-seasoned nuggets, but they get even better with a dash of hot sauce). Blackened rockfish requires no such intervention, delivering definitive spice and an abundance of flaky meat.

El Charrito Caminante
2710-A N. Washington Blvd., Arlington; 703-351-1177
Average entree under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner, Wednesday through Monday; closed Tuesday.

Pressed for time? Need a quick, Tex-Mex fix? Then ground beef-filled tacos are just fine.

But if you crave a true taste of Mexico, you’ll need to stand in line at Arlington’s El Charrito Caminante just like everyone else.

This austere carryout is as plain as can be: a central counter, a grill perpetually crowded with homemade Mexican delicacies and a few stray stools for anyone who would rather eat than run. Most menu items cost less than $5—tacos are $2 each, burritos are $3, and traditional torta sandwiches are $4—and virtually everything is made-to-order.

The homemade tacos feature twin tortilla shells wrapped around a host of exotic fillings, including chorizo (crumbled Spanish sausage, mostly mild), carne de res (terrific, grilled steak), cabrito (slow-roasted goat meat comes densely packed, yet remains amazingly tender) and puerco (shredded swine can occasionally seem a little tough, but is typically still flavorful). A hefty beef burrito rolls thick strips of grilled flank steak together with beans, rice and the buffet of fresh vegetables—a homemade relish of diced green onions and ripe tomatoes—found in all the main dishes. The bulky Mexican torta is just as impressive, stuffing more grilled steak, savory pinto beans, cheese and the house relish into a bulging-at-the seams sub roll (magnifico).

Hooked
20789 Great Falls Plaza, Sterling; 703-421-0404; www.hookedonseafood.com
Average entree $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Good sushi, naturally, requires fresh seafood. Great sushi requires exceptional seafood and the watchful eye of an expertly trained sushi chef.

So, what’s required for great carryout sushi? Merely calling over to Hooked to make sure chef Yoshi Katsuyama is working.

This nautically themed newcomer does nothing but seafood, which it does pretty well. But the real lures are Katsuyama’s enticing raw fish arrangements, ranging from the basic (fatty tuna on rice) to bountiful (the house Las Vegas roll combines crab, lobster and caviar sprinkled with a sweet marinade).

The fresh scallop roll summons lengths of meaty mollusk draped across their steamed rice bedding. New York roll ties together salmon and crisp apple with a blast of mustard (sounds weird, tastes great). Jumping coasts, the Malibu roll appeases seafood lovers with hunks of white meat crab wrapped around thick-cut asparagus, with bright orange roe poured over to fill in any gaps (impressive). Likewise, a special dragon roll surrounds tuna, spicy mayo and more caviar with a soy-soaked eel (soy provides the sweet, while the spicy mayo plays cleanup).

Want something a little more substantial to pad those tired old bones? Miso-marinated sea bass yields a lily-white medallion of fish with a honey-like finish. Heat seekers can savor the dozen or so medium-sized, lightly battered (thin breading barely coats the pinkish prawns beneath) shrimp tossed in a terrific hot sauce. Or fill up on the chifa rice, a Chinese-style, fried rice blend packed with seafood (shrimp, mixed fish, scallops) and just a touch of cumin.

Papa Petrone’s
4168 Merchant Plaza, Woodbridge; 703-878-4100; www.papapetronestakenbake.com
Average entree $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Easy ways to “shake up” your average pizza: Add a topping here. Switch sauces there. Inject ungodly amounts of cheese into every square inch possible.

When you are ready to truly break free from the carryout pizza mold, come see “Papa” John Petrone.

A nearly 20-year veteran of the bake-at-home dining scene, Petrone continues to reel in new customers and repeat business alike with his signature “scramble bread”—a piecemeal masterpiece of loose pizza dough, unlimited toppings (more than two dozen meats, vegetables and cheeses are always at the ready) and piles of scattered mozzarella. While baking, the mounds of dough puff up around the selected proteins and greens, producing a pick-apart sensation that begs for further experimentation.

“It’ll hook anybody,” Petrone says of his mountainous, priced-by-the-pound creation.

Homemade pastas (Petrone prepares everything in-house, using only egg whites for the noodles) include a variety of specialty raviolis ranging from standards like a portobello-mascarpone-caramelized onion medley (loaded with soft mushrooms and sharp cheese) to exotics like pumpkin and tarragon. Customers can also build a meal from familiar pastas (angel hair, rigatoni) and sauces (terrific white clam sauce yields loads of chewy clams steeped in butter and black pepper) or sample made-to-order stunners like his white lasagna (an all-out dairy assault featuring broad egg noodles interlaced with a proprietary blend of five cheeses and rivers of alfredo sauce).

Cosmopolitan
5902-A, N. Kings Highway, Alexandria; 703-329-3303; www.restaurant-cosmopolitan.com
Average entree under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Gourmet burgers are becoming so ubiquitous. Corporate chains regularly trot out custom sandwiches sporting one “hot” topping after another.

BOR-ing.

Ready for a genuinely unforgettable burger experience? Stock up on Altoids. Brush up on your Bosnian. Then head over to Cosmopolitan and feast your eyes on the amazing pljeskavica.

Owners Ivica and Amela Svalina have been feeding fellow Slavic ex-pats for nearly four years, although Amela claims maybe 60 percent of their business comes from curiosity seekers and ethnic dining enthusiasts. Their tiny storefront contains little else than a drink cooler, a cash register and a TV perpetually tuned to European futbol matches. But much like the Great and Powerful Oz, they work some serious magic from behind the curtain that leads to their modest kitchen.

The so-called Bosnian burger summons a mammoth patty—a truely widemouth experience—of spiced ground beef smothered with sour cream and sliced white onions, pressed between a sourdough-like bun (the potent onions hit you from a mile away, while the silky cream-on-meat interplay is simply mesmerizing). The equally popular cevapcici heaps spiced sausages (put regular cocktail weenies to shame) into another homemade roll. The fabulous chicken pikata schnitzel produces a lightly-breaded chicken breast zapped with lemon (marvelous). Blast your taste buds even further with the peppery potato burek, a spiral pastry (looks like an elephant’s ear) filled with tender, diced potatoes. A spinach and cheese variety is just as filling, without the added spice.

Pie Gourmet
507 Maple Ave. W., Vienna; 703-281-7437; www.piegourmet.com
Average entree $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.

If your pastry appreciation begins with “Three Stooges” clips and ends on the Marie Callender shelf of your frozen foods section, get thee to Vienna’s Pie Gourmet for a crash course in the art of primo baking.

The 20-year-old shop tempts patrons with rows of fresh pies—approximately a dozen seasonal savories along with 50-plus rotating dessert offerings—ranging from solitary wonders (chicken pot, pumpkin) to dynamic duos (crab and mushroom quiche, strawberry rhubarb). Most pies can be warmed up (heat at 375 degrees) in about 20 to 25 minutes if still at room temperature, or in about 40 to 50 minutes if frozen.

One crowd-pleaser takes the traditional sausage (crumbled, sweet Italian) and peppers conceit, rolls it with caramelized onions, eggplant and a robust marinara, then bakes the entire thing into a mountain of molto Italiano bliss (waves of flavor roll over you with every bite). A seafood number delivers mounds of sauteed spinach and flaky salmon protected by a bronzed cheddar and parmesan crust.

Whipped cream peaks blanket an ocean of rich chocolate fluff in the always popular chocolate cream pie. Or celebrate Halloween early with the terrific pumpkin bars (spiced pumpkin, sweet raisins and crazy rich cream cheese frosting, combined into a handheld slice of heaven).

Need something to nibble on the ride home? Tear into the cannonball-shaped stuffed breads—downy-soft rolls filled with zesty pepperoni (bleeds spicy oil with every bite), sweet Italian sausage (a diced pepper party) or a chicken-spinach combo.

(November 2007)

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Shore Leave

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 1st, 2008

Grub You’ll Love While Baking in the Sun

By Warren Rojas / Photography by Hana Jung

There was a time when slipping away to the Eastern Shore for a weekend felt like roughing it.

No gelato, no carpaccio, no truffled potatoes. Not a single luxury.

Today, you’re as likely to encounter veal cheeks and prized European vintages at the burgeoning crop of fine-dining establishments as you are to find caramel-covered popcorn and corn dogs along the boardwalk. We bounced between Dewey, Rehoboth and Ocean City to find the best seaside dining around, targeting everything from fine dining (Take Your Time) to family-friendly (Bring the Kids) to snacks (Load Up) to nocturnal hotspots (Get Down).

Granted, we skipped over the blink-and-you’ll-miss-them tracts of Bethany and Fenwick Island. But there’s always next year …

bring the kids
Hooper’s Crab House
Ocean City, Md.
410-213-1771; www.hooperscrabhouse.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Those who can’t fathom visiting the beach without winding up elbow- deep in crab shells most likely already know about Hooper’s. Anyone who doesn’t would literally have to have their head in the sand.

The massive waterfront establishment sits just outside Ocean City proper—luring vacationing families and gangs of beachgoers with the promise of seating options aplenty and a seemingly inexhaustible supply of marvelous seafood.

The main attraction remains the all-you-can-eat seafood feast ($26), which includes Old Bay-covered Maryland blue crabs (steady supply of number 2’s typically pack enough meat to make the pickin’ worthwhile); homemade fried chicken (crispy and delicious); barbecue baby back ribs (tangy); fried clam strips (chewy fun); steamed corn (ready to be shucked, salted and gnawed off the cob); and more, delivered by the trayful. Other dining options include an all-you-can-eat crab-and-corn feast ($21) available at a satellite, waterfront pagoda, along with a slew of familiar fried/broiled/baked seafood standards. Carryout crabs (medium through jumbo, based on availability) are also offered by the dozen, half-bushel or bushel.

Meanwhile, repeat visitors should consider investing in the 22-ounce souvenir cup, which costs $4.75 up front, but entitles guests to free soda/tea refills ad infinitum and $1.75 draft beer refills.

get down
Fager’s Island
Ocean City, Md.
410-524-5500; www.fagers.com/restaurant
Average entree: over $31 ($$$$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily; Sunday brunch.

An adult playground with fully-stocked bars around every corner, Fager’s Island keeps clients guessing by indulging crowds with everything from classical music to the latest European dance beats.

The waterfront retreat houses two main stages—one that typically features a house or visiting DJ, while the other hosts a rotating group of interchangeable cover bands—a wraparound patio with secluded groves and a common area featuring cozy tables illuminated by built-in fire pits. The serene exterior areas are ideal perches for taking in the Sunday jazz brunch, but all the real action takes place indoors, after dark.

Each evening at dusk, the thunderous roar of the “1812 Overture” blasts away another day. A weekly deck party featuring discounted drinks and bar snacks and free admission for the ladies kicks off at 5 p.m. on Monday evenings. Weekend nights, the indoor club is swarmed by golden-tressed sirens summoning rhythmically challenged frat boys to certain death on the dance floor while ruddy-faced baby boomers troll for their next ex-wife. DJs feed the crowd a steady diet of hip-hop and Top 40 hits, while random streams of foam/ticker tape rain down on the gyrating masses all night long.

load up
Louie’s Pizza
Rehoboth Beach, Del.
302-227-6002; www.homeofthegrinder.com
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.

Yes, yes. It’s called Louie’s Pizza. But while the well-constructed pies get top billing, it’s the unheralded sandwiches that steal the show.

A boardwalk fixture for over three decades, there’s no denying that Louie’s remains one of the go-to spots for superior pizza. The foldable N.Y.-style slices emerge from the oven—they go though once as part of the initial pie-making process and receive a return bronzing when you order—with blissfully smoky, burnt edges, spicy pepperoni, spongy mushroom bits and what seems like miles of bubbling mozzarella, each for under $2 apiece.

The handheld hits continue with over two dozen sandwiches, including traditional grill selections (burgers, cheese steaks), deli-style subs and oven-toasted grinders.

A formidable double steak and cheese heaps 12 ounces of sizzling steak onto a sub roll, then tops everything off with ripe tomato slices and a blanket of melted American cheese. Likewise, the grinder special binds traditional ham, peppery cappicola and zesty salami with peppers, onions, tomato and provolone, and baptizes them all in oil (fantastic).

Just remember to bring plenty of cash. Because debit/credit card-toting customers are the only ones who leave this place hungry.

get down
Purple Parrot Grill
Rehoboth Beach, Del.
302-226-1139
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open daily for lunch, dinner and late-night dining.

A colorful stop just up from the Rehoboth boardwalk, the Purple Parrot attracts fun-loving types from all walks of life with exotic cocktails, tempting dishes and get-out-of-your-seat entertainment.

The island-themed destination (shredded coconut, Caribbean-style jerk seasoning and tangy mojo inhabit many dishes) stays busy feeding sand-covered beachgoers throughout the day, but really comes to life on weekend nights. Armchair American Idols serenade/assail the streets of Rehoboth during the Friday and Saturday night karaoke sessions, while professionals—female impersonators performing under the guise of “Miss Peaches and the Birdcage Bad Girls”—keep the crowd moving on Sunday nights.

Late-night diners can recharge with meaty mojo ribs, featuring tender pork brushed with a tasty citrus barbecue glaze, or a whopping tuna wrap featuring an Old Bay-dusted tortilla packed with creamy albacore-laden goodness. Or call it a night with the daunting mumbo jumbo, a full pound burger that’s cooked to order and piled high with all your favorite toppings. Off-season, staff slash the price on this beef behemoth to just $6 and let locals go wild at a fixings bar boasting two types of cheese, fresh lettuce, sauteed mushrooms, curly bacon strips and fried onions.

take your time
Dish!
Rehoboth Beach, Del.
302-226-2112; www.dishrehoboth.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for dinner daily.

Although the décor remains firmly rooted in the past, the cuisine at Dish! is deliciously cutting edge.

This subterranean retreat is splashed with vibrant primary colors and appointed with total kitsch. An unsolved Rubik’s Cube beckons from the main bookshelf, while lava lamps bubble brightly in every window.

The menu is a patchwork of childhood favorites and imagination, combining well-loved standards (truffle oil is a favored accent here) with rotating specials and even a daily cheesecake creation.

An already irresistible calamari littered with cilantro curls becomes even more enticing after a dip in spicy crushed peanuts. Crispy roast chicken comes surrounded by a lake of savory stock, a tower of scalloped potatoes and a forest of broccoli, artichokes and roasted red peppers. One TV-style dinner tray (gimmicky, but fun) houses two pork chops bathed in a smart pineapple-raisin relish, a cafeteria-style scoop of cheddary mac and cheese, a solo deviled egg and sauteed broccoli (a square meal, turned totally hip). Dessert’s a no-brainer, particularly after you spot the unbelievably rich house ice cream sandwich—featuring jumbo rice crispy rounds hugging a mountain of vanilla ice cream absolutely drenched in gooey chocolate sauce and rainbow sprinkles.

Following one meal, a first-time guest poked his head into the kitchen to congratulate executive chef Riche Griffin for the fabulous experience.

“Great food. I’ll be back,” he announced. So will we.

take your time
Galaxy 66 Bar and Grille
Ocean City, Md.
410-723-6762; www.galaxy66barandgrille.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.

The beach is clearly the place to be for dedicated sun worshippers. But when it comes to stargazing, few places can trump the celestial clout exercised by Galaxy 66.

This swanky, three-story establishment boasts an expansive main dining room decorated with candy-like sunbursts, spacey light fixtures and a constellation of mosaic tile stars. Patrons who prefer their entertainment au naturel can take the spiral stairs up to the rooftop Skye bar, an open-air escape for those who take their cocktails with a panoramic view.

Back inside, the kitchen crew keeps guests in orbit with an evolving roster of contemporary American cuisine.

The monstrous tenderloin sandwich (a definite knife-and-forker) shoehorns jumbo briquettes of chewy beef, caramelized onions and shaved brie into a toasted baguette, all flanked by hoop-sized onion rings (groovy). A luxuriant risotto arrives outfitted with peppers, onions, shaved sausage and a trio of piquant shrimp. The deceptively labeled lobster club delivers a clever seafood salad bearing fluffed lobster tossed with micro greens, crumbled Gorgonzola and sliced green apples. Duck pulls double duty—as a succulent breast and crispy confit leg—drawing plenty of support from a ring of citrus-habanero sauce (honey sweet, rather than hot), an endive and goat cheese salad (solid) and a nest of spaghetti squash.

load up
Dumser’s Dairyland
Ocean City, Md.
Multiple locations; www.beach-net.com/dumsers
Average entree: under $12 ($). Check locations for times.

Cooling off after a long day at the beach is a snap at Dumser’s, a longstanding cadre of traditional ice cream parlors known for their frosty, skyward-reaching treats.

The local dairy baron offers varying degrees of snack assistance throughout Ocean City, from several take-away ice cream kiosks sprinkled along the boardwalk to a casual family restaurant (serving breakfast, lunch and dinner) on 123rd Street.

Although different in size, each Dumser’s features a rainbow of homemade ice creams presented just about any way you like—including assorted sundaes (from one-scoop numbers to multi-layered “super” sundaes), milkshakes, floats, ice cream sodas, traditional soft serve and dipped cones.

Hardcore sundae fans can take a crack at the Dairyland special, a build-your-own monolith comprised of a split banana, six scoops of ice cream (pick from over a dozen homemade flavors ranging from plain vanilla to combos like coconut-chocolate chip) and six bonus toppings (chopped almonds, rainbow sprinkles, whipped cream and fresh cherries come standard). Or turn breakfast on its head by ordering up a homemade waffle crowned with a fruity blast of black raspberry ice cream or tart orange sherbet.

get down
The Starboard
Dewey Beach, Del.
302-227-4600; www.thestarboard.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

Food, schmood.

Sometimes, all you want while decompressing at the shore is a cool, refreshing drink. And maybe 200 of your closest friends standing by to cover the next round. If so, make your way to the infamous Starboard, a Dewey institution one companion aptly characterized as “spring break for 30-year-olds.”

The mostly open-air club is a magnet for auto-pickled partygoers looking to rock out to the roving stable of mixed musical acts (rock/reggae/acoustic) that make meaningful conversations just about impossible most nights. With chitchat off the table, overzealous patrons often throw caution to the wind, frantically indulge in test tubes full of mystery booze with friends or fearlessly make time with strangers only to later discover that they live/work in the same apartment complex/office building as said conquest back home.

And social lubricants are never far away—beginning with the make-your-own bloody Mary bar unveiled at breakfast, the fruity-but-deadly mixed drinks doled out by staff during happy hour or the tempting half-bottles of wine that can quickly turn a quiet dinner into a night-long adventure.

Meanwhile, the bar prides itself on never levying a cover charge—ever. But it sure helps to have one of the VIP passes distributed to Dewey regulars.

take your time
David Lynch’s Venus on the Half Shell
Dewey Beach, Del.
302-227-9292; www.deweybeachlife.com
Average entree: over $31 ($$$$). Open for dinner daily.

On a clear night, the moon seems to hang just out of reach out of those fortunate enough to secure one of the outside tables at the breezy Venus on the Half Shell. Luckily, everyone else can enjoy the iridescent twinkle of the ruby stars dangling within.

The gorgeous waterfront property boasts four distinct seating areas: a bustling bar/lounge level, a relaxed lower dining room, a sandy bay front plot and a cozy two-person refuge overlooking the water. The style is elegant—it has a definitively Far Eastern feel (Buddhist statues, pillow-backed bench seating, ornate tile mirrors)—yet still laid back enough for those who choose to dine in T-shirts and flip flops.

The contemporary American menu features entrees ranging from local seafood to choice cuts of beef, pork or lamb, plus select daily “features.”

Chilled lobster meat presides over a scattering of Bibb lettuce dotted with a lemony aioli in one simple but satisfying starter. Pepper-crusted tuna wedges share time with a festive Asian slaw in another. Muscular tiger prawns lord over a creamy risotto inundated with tender lobster nuggets and leafy bok choy. Elsewhere, meaty jumbo lump crab cakes come dressed with Cajun tartar sauce and a sweet corn relish (terrific).

bring the kids
Grotto Pizza
Multiple Delaware locations
www.grottopizza.com
Average entree: under $12 ($). Check locations for times.

Part of the Rehoboth grab-and-go infrastructure for going on five decades, the now ubiquitous Grotto Pizza has planted family-friendly outposts all over Dewey, Bethany and Lewes and has even branched out into Pennsylvania. And as its fame has grown, so has the menu.

This one-time pizza joint now features a host of Italian favorites, from Sicilian-style pizza—hefty squares come covered in slivered onions, shaved mozzarella and a tangy marinara (the crust could be a little crunchier)—and traditional pastas, to a new line of designer gelatos. Our vote, however, goes to the bulging homemade strombolis stuffed with all manner of savory fillings.

The eponymous Grotto boli produces a puffy, oven-baked shell filled with mountains of crumbled ground beef and streams of molten cheese (a real crowd pleaser), all flanked by a side of marinara. A traditional stromboli packs an even heartier punch, bombarding the senses with bites of pepperoni, cappicola, salami and ham, all swimming in more melted cheese.

get down
Seacrets Bar & Grill
Ocean City, Md.
410-524-4900; www.seacrets.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.

A cut above most ordinary nightclubs, Seacrets provides a break from reality, offering the illusion of a Caribbean getaway to those who can only afford an Ocean City escape.

A sprawling entertainment labyrinth embedded with over a dozen bars, several sit-down dining areas, a dedicated dance club, a half-dozen event stages and a beautiful outdoor tiki setup boasting sunken cocktail tables and floating rafts, Seacrets aims to transport patrons to a mythical refuge cheekily billed as “Jamaica, U.S.A.”

The average crowd is a mix of young and old, tourists and locals, casual drinkers and off-duty hospitality workers looking to make the most of their precious free time.

Discount drink specials—including $2 drafts, $3 bottles and $4 imports/specialty drinks—run from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily. Bar staff say the most popular house drinks include the big bamboo, a fairly smooth but clearly boozy rum punch packed with enough Malibu to make Captain Jack Sparrow stagger, and the pain in de ass, the irreverent offspring of a traditional rum runner and a pina colada (refreshingly fruity but still non-confrontational).

But be warned. Because unlike Vegas, what happens at Seacrets is, in fact, preserved for posterity (internal cameras stream images from all over the club directly to the Internet).

take your time
Nage
Rehoboth Beach, Del.
302-226-2037; www.nage.bz
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Talk about reverse-commuting. While the rest of us risk the perils of the Bay Bridge to visit Rehoboth’s marvelous Nage, founder Kevin Reading is often in town tending to the D.C. sibling—attached to the Courtyard Marriott in Scott Circle—he launched in 2006.

The flagship Nage has all the trappings of  a chic metropolitan bistro: a handful of sought-after tables, lots of earth tones and natural light to soothe the senses and a full complement of snappy libations (watermelon-infused sauvignon blanc sangria) to keep the conversation flowing.

The seasonal menu features a number of signature dishes, rotating specials (select meats are often brought in from the old-school butcher shop next door) and a buffet of prix fixe ($35 for three courses) options.

An applewood smoked quail arrives splayed across a bed of goat cheese grits accented with mushrooms, pine nuts and a ring of fresh sorrel pesto (supporting cast almost steals the show). The so-called knuckle sandwich is a knockout, delivering tender chunks of lobster bundled with tarragon aioli and shredded lettuce, all pressed between a toasted croissant. Top honors, though, go to a roast veal chop escorted by a “truffled mac and cheese” that reveals orecchiette stacked with mushrooms, peas and asparagus (simply amazing).

load up
J.T. Scraps Salad Factory
Dewey Beach. Del.
302-226-8561
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

Call it beach fatigue: that pivotal moment at which your now bulging waistline declares that it’s had enough of Old Bay-dusted this and second helpings of deep-fried that. Luckily, the prescient folks at J.T. Scraps have a low-cal cure designed to keep you trim enough to enjoy the rest of the summer.

A health-conscious eatery tucked away on the oceanside of the main Dewey strip, Scraps offers a host of specialty salads—many named after other local bars and eateries—with lots of interchangeable extras (seasonal greens, fat-free dressings and mixed proteins). Additional options include nearly a dozen assorted sandwich wraps, homemade soups (turkey chili is standard, but look for daily specials like Maryland crab) and a handful of fruit smoothies.

The Lighthouse shrimp salad combines mixed greens with steamed shrimp, hard-boiled eggs and bowtie pasta (a truly refreshing mix), while the Starboard intermingles chopped romaine with crumbled bacon, strips of sliced provolone and potato-filled pierogies (outstanding).

Not to mention that during lunch, Scraps is often packed with more sun-tanned beauties—per capita—than any bar in Dewey, Rehoboth or Ocean City.

bring the kids
Bayside Skillet
Ocean City, Md.
410-524-7950; www.baysideskillet.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Fresh fruit and fancy eggs vie for your undivided attention at Bayside Skillet, an eye-catching eatery awash in bright colors and loads of sunlight.

The practically all-pink cottage (think hot pink trim, hanging baskets filled with pastel-colored flowers and lacy umbrellas) provides casual dining in the air-conditioned main area or an al fresco experience on the spacious patio (where the radio remains trained to classic 60s doo-wop, soul and R&B hits).

Patrons can choose from scores of omelets (from plain Swiss cheese to a signature strawberry-cream cheese-brown sugar blintz), over a dozen sweet or savory crepe combinations or a handful of specialty frittatas and skillet-fried potato creations.

An ample seafood frittata summons a cushion of eggs blanketed with shredded crab, seasoned shrimp and tender scallops bathed in tangy marinara and melted mozzarella (terrific). Homemade crepes already overflowing with shredded spinach and crumbled bacon turn irresistible with a dab of hollandaise. Starch fiends need look no further than the potatoes s.o.b. (south of the border)—revealing tasty home fries buried beneath a mountain of chili, cheese, onions, peppers, bacon, mushrooms and sour cream.

Meanwhile, citrus junkies can fill up on fresh squeezed orange or grapefruit juice or homemade lemonade.

load up
Liquid Assets
Ocean City. Md.
410-524-7037; www.ocliquidassets.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.

Vacationing gastronauts can scratch any lingering gourmet itch at Liquid Assets, a package store/bistro abounding with epicurean delights.

The expansive wine shop, which boasts over 1,600 bottles in its collection, features a roomy central bar as well as an adjoining, informal dining room. The kitchen crew seems enamored with celebrating regional, seasonal cuisine, as indicated by the dizzying array of artisanal cheeses procured from a gourmet shop in nearby Bethany Beach, while breads are purchased from a local baker.

Build-your-own cheese samplers (three for $13, five for $18 or $5 each per 2-ounce serving) lead to flights of fancy, given the dozens of custom choices—everything from aging Goudas to herb-infused goat’s milk blends—available at any given time.

Staff regularly rotate different cheeses into the bistro’s “grilled cheese deluxe” slot, combining individual cheeses, fresh vegetables, gourmet spreads and specialty breads into singularly astounding creations. Similarly, a lean but still beefy house burger garnished with sweet onion relish (piquant topper teases the palate) is constantly updated with different cheeses and homemade breads. Elsewhere, paprika-rubbed chicken wings enrobe the tender bird in a spicy crust that conveys earthy warmth rather than a saucy scald.

bring the kids
La Hacienda
Ocean City, Md.
410-524-8080; www.oclahacienda.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for dinner daily.

Some may find it odd to seek out a Mexican place while at the beach. Everyone else should thank said skeptics for leaving more splendiferous Tex-Mex seafood for the rest of us.

La Hacienda maximizes its proximity to the sea by integrating all manner of marine life into their cuisine. Their talents are so well-known, in fact, one server warns that wait times often exceed an hour and a half, in season.

The flood of familiar sights (big slushy margaritas and import beers seem to dot every table) and scents (trays of sizzling, char-grilled steak continuously stream out of the kitchen) may seem to portend another generic meal. That is, until you sink your teeth into one of the creative seafood options.

The Neptune burrito—“the single, best thing on the menu,” according to one waitress—packs backfin crab meat, mouthwatering scallops, sauteed shrimp, white American, yellow American and cream cheese into a flour tortilla. The massive creation is then smothered in baked-on beans, and surrounded by refried beans and rice (a monster of a meal). Or look for daily specials like the seared ahi tuna fajitas, uniting a lemony tuna steak (generous filet, lightly seared) with grilled vegetables and warm tortillas.

(August 2007)

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