Posts Tagged ‘Travel’
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, January 12th, 2009
By Natalie Kaar
When it’s cold outside and the nights are long, it’s hard to beat snuggling up to your sweetie. But while doing so in the comfort of your home is nice enough, you’re surrounded by bills begging to be paid, laundry that won’t wash itself and a slew of other chores.
Responsibility is admirable, but every couple deserves a break. That’s why we’ve assembled a group of romantic winter destinations that will have you saying, “Tootles!” to those to-dos and, “Hell-o-o-o-o!” to your honey! The bonus: These spots are all fairly local, so no pining away at the pump.
Goodstone Inn and Estate
Our Starring Four
Featuring down-home country goodness, rich history and gorgeous Blue Ridge views, the Marriott Ranch (www.marriottranch.com; 540-364-2627) in Hume, and Remington’s The Inn at Kelly’s Ford (www.innatkellysford.com; 540-399-1779) are ideal for those who appreciate the casual elegance of Virginia’s Hunt Country and enjoy Civil War history or equestrian events. The Goodstone Inn and Estate (www.goodstone.com; 877-219-4663), in Middleburg, features privacy, posh accommodations and fine dining sans stuffiness, and Wisp Resort (www.wispresort.com; 800-462-9477) makes for a winter wonderland perfect for adrenaline-filled days outdoors and relaxing nights by the fire.
As your parents have always told you, though, you can’t judge a book by its cover. The descriptions you just read only begin to convey how these places could make your dreams for a romantic winter rendezvous come true.
Sleeping Accommodations
At the Inn at Fairfield Farm on Marriott Ranch, dating back to 1814, couples may choose to stay in the Manor House, where each stately room upstairs includes a fireplace and private bath or shower, and downstairs there is a library, living room and large dining room for those who wish to socialize.
For added privacy and modern accommodations, others prefer the Carriage House, where all three rooms feature private ground-floor entrances and full baths. The Fairfield Suite is especially enticing with a king-sized bed.
Marriott Ranch
Rates: $199 to $229 per night for a room in the Manor House, $129 to $229 in the Carriage House—hearty country breakfast included.
About 30 miles away, at The Inn at Kelly’s Ford, the options are impressive as well. While the main house offers two bedrooms, each with a queen-sized bed, fireplace, balcony view, large antique tub and terrycloth robes, there are also six large suites featuring all the special features of the rooms plus a Jacuzzi, king-sized bed and sleeper-sofa.
What’s more, The Inn at Kelly’s Ford also rents out The Silo, a.k.a. their “Honeymoon Suite,” featuring a full wet bar, indoor fountain, gas stove and unbelievable view of the estate.
Rates: $175 per night for a Main House room, $200 for a suite and $250 for The Silo—plus an additional $25 May 1 through Dec. 31st, Friday and Saturday nights. Prices include breakfast with the option of breakfast in bed.
And in Middleburg, at The Goodstone Inn and Estate, the overnight accommodations are perfectly suited for starry-eyed couples. While the attractive options at the luxurious estate are numerous, The Bull Barn and The Hayloft are most romantic.
Just opened last month, The Bull Barn is “very private, cozy and beautifully decorated,” according to Goodstone spokesperson Denise Benoit. It has a king-sized bed, large two-person sunken tub with bay window, grand stone fireplace, sitting area, wet bar and beautiful farm view.
The Inn at Kelly's Ford
Meanwhile, The Hayloft screams romance, with a plush queen-sized bed and large bathroom with oversized Whirlpool tub and separate walk-in shower with marble loveseat. And, a private roof deck serves as the perfect spot to watch the sun rise over Goose Creek.
Winter rates: $285 per night Sunday through Thursday, $385 Friday through Saturday for The Hayloft; $495 per night Sunday through Thursday, $595 Fridays and Saturdays for The Bull Barn—continental and full hot breakfast included.
And, last but not least, Wisp affords couples fantastic overnight choices, too. While the newly remodeled Wisp Resort Hotel features 67 guest rooms and 102 two-room suites with views of the slopes and golf course, booking a private cottage through the Lodging Partner Program is also a great option. Plus, the award-winning Lake Point Inn, of the Select Registry, is only a quick walk away.
As for the charming ski-in/ski-out Wisp Resort Hotel itself, the six King Luxury Suites are the all-stars. They feature pillow-top California king mattresses, access to the VIP lounge, truffles presented upon check-in, evening turn-down service with fresh-baked cookies and milk; and, no children are allowed. The hotel also features two Fireplace Suites.
Winter rates: $249 per night for the King Luxury Suites and Fireplace Suites Sunday through Thursday, $369 on Fridays, Saturdays and holidays.
Wisp Resort
Dining
Of course, when it comes to a relaxing romantic getaway, a good meal is almost as important as a good bed. Here are just a few of the dining options for each destination.
Marriott Ranch: While you’ll start your day with a hearty country breakfast onsite, ultra-romantic dining options nearby beg to be explored, too, including the legendary Inn at Little Washington and Ashby Inn.
The Inn at Kelly’s Ford: If you have room for lunch after your breakfast in bed, you may enjoy grabbing a bite in nearby Culpeper or Warrenton, but save room for an intimate dinner in the main dining room at Kelly’s Ford, where you’ll enjoy exquisite cuisine from Chef Jean Paul Pessaint—and then head to Pelham’s Pub, also onsite, for some local acoustic tunes.
The Goodstone Inn & Estate: After a hearty breakfast and perhaps some shopping in Middleburg, you may wish to take a picnic lunch to a winery mid-afternoon, but make sure to save calories for the fine dining experience at Goodstone’s Hilltoppers for dinner. The restaurant features farm-to-table cuisine from esteemed chef Tarver King and a knockout wine list.
Wisp Resort: Sloshing in the snow, you’ll work up quite a hunger. Fortunately DC’s Bar and Restaurant, featuring one of the largest wine cellars in Deep Creek, will have you covered morning to night, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner in a rustic setting that director of marketing Lori Epp describes as “the perfect complement to any day on the mountain.”
Popular Activities
Of course, the bedroom and dining table aren’t the only settings suitable for celebrating your love. At Marriott Ranch, The Inn at Kelly’s Ford and Goodstone, couples enjoy horseback riding, wine tastings and antiquing. Visitors of The Inn at Kelly’s Ford also enjoy sleigh and carriage rides while Goodstone guests look forward to afternoon tea. And, at Wisp, in addition to downhill skiing and boarding, couples simply adore snowmobile rides, tubing, cross-country skiing and sleigh rides (at nearby Pleasant Valley Dream Rides).
Special Packages
As if you needed more reason to book a trip today …
Marriott Ranch will host a Valentine’s weekend package, including an overnight stay, five-course wine dinner, trail rides for two and a keepsake picnic basket; and, The Inn at Kelly’s Ford is planning a New Year’s Eve Gala, German Wine Dinner (in January) and Valentine’s Dinner and Dance.
At press time, Goodstone had not finalized their winter romance package; however, it typically includes: deluxe accommodations, champagne, afternoon tea, dinner for two, turn-down service with fresh roses and pillow gift, chocolate-dipped strawberries and breakfast.
For information on romantic lodging specials at Wisp, see www.wispresort.com.
(December 2008)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, January 12th, 2009
By Natalie Kaar
Who says summer is the only time that’s ripe for getting away? Not us! On the next few pages, you’ll find sensational escapes, all well within driving distance, that will have you perfecting your—non-football—plans for fall.
After all, let’s hear it for less road construction, the natural beauty of changing leaves and mild temperatures!
Black Bear Resort
(toll-free) 1-800-553-BEAR (2327); www.blackbearwv.com
Courtesy of Black Bear Resort
Located in scenic Canaan Valley, W.Va., Black Bear Resort—so named due to the area’s prevalence of black bears—is only about a three-hour drive from Northern Virginia, yet feels a world away.
The views of the enchanted mountains are magnificent, as the resort lies in the center of the valley floor, the highest elevated valley east of the Mississippi (3,200 feet)—with flora and fauna much like that of Canada. Surrounded by the Monongahela National Forest, adjacent to the Dolly Sods Wilderness and Otter Creek Wilderness areas, near the Blackwater Falls and Seneca Rocks, the area plays host to copious outdoor activities. Depending on the season, that’s everything from cross-country and downhill skiing to canoeing and rafting, hiking, horseback riding, mountain biking and wildlife viewing. Plus, the resort itself features a children’s playground, fishing pond, mini-golf course, tennis courts and an outdoor pool, with over 75 of its unique pedestal homes and 12 suites at Black Bear Inn available for rent.
If planning an escape for fall, a great time to check out the fall colors of the Canadian-like heathers and cranberries atop the mountains, it’s best to book your stay 30 days in advance. Do so by calling (toll-free) 1-800-553-BEAR (2327).
Chesapeake Beach Resort & Spa
(toll-free) 1-866-312-5596; www.cbresortspa.com
Courtesy of Chesapeake Beach Resort & Spa
Located just 35 miles southeast of Alexandria in Chesapeake Beach, Md., Chesapeake Beach Resort and Spa is a prime destination for area residents who wish to enjoy a relaxing seaside escape from reality nearby. After all, whether they prefer to have their vacations chocked full of boating, fishing, romance, spa-pampering or water sports, their bases are covered. That’s thanks to the resort’s two marinas with slip rentals and charter fishing, luxurious overnight accommodations with views of the Chesapeake Bay and Calvert Cliffs, a full-service spa with scores of soothing treatments and more.
Owned by brothers Gerald and Fred Donovan, the hotel first opened in 2004, though the two have long-standing ties to the area. In fact, Rod ‘N’ Reel Restaurant, one of the resort’s three dining establishments, was founded by their family in 1946.
When it comes to the hotel, management is constantly thinking of new ways to improve guests’ stays. Just this past year, large flat-screen HDTVs with built-in DVD players were added to each of the 72 guest rooms of which 12 are suites and junior suites featuring Jacuzzi tubs and three-sided fireplaces.
The popular year-round vacation spot is also a well-regarded wedding venue. Ceremonies may be performed right by the water or in one of the resort’s indoor ballrooms, which feature bay views and seating for up to 250 guests.
Hershey—The Sweetest Place on Earth
(toll-free) 1-800-HERSHEY (437-7439); www.hersheypa.com
Courtesy of Hershey
Over a century ago, Milton S. Hershey dreamed of building the perfect town for the employees of his world-famous Pennsylvania chocolate factory. Over the years, what began as an employee park has evolved into a world-class resort destination featuring select accommodations, including The Hotel Hershey (a AAA four-diamond hotel) as well as the family-friendly Hershey Lodge and Highmeadow Campground; premier golf on the four courses of the Hershey Golf Collection; indulgent spa treatments at The Chocolate Spa; and top-name entertainment to suit all ages at Giant Center, Hersheypark Arena and Hersheypark Stadium. That’s not to mention 11 roller coasters—including the new Farenheight coaster, which features the steepest drop in the U.S.—as well as dozens of other thrilling rides at Hersheypark.
And, still there’s more. Year-round guests enjoy a bounty of additional fun-filled activities including: free chocolate-making tour rides at Hershey’s Chocolate World, 11 acres of upfront animal viewing at ZooAmerica, over 23 acres of themed botanical splendor to explore at Hershey Gardens, touring Broadway shows and other renowned productions to take in at Hershey Theatre. Hershey also hosts unique seasonal extravaganzas such as Chocolate-Covered February, featuring over 300 chocolate-centric events and activities from chocolate-and-wine pairings to cooking demos, as well as special holiday events.
Hilton Virginia Beach Oceanfront
1-757-213-3001; www.hiltonvb.com
The four-star Hilton Virginia Beach Oceanfront , located in the heart of the Virginia Beach resort district, is a towering, 21-story hotel lauded for its high level of personalized service, luxurious accommodations, outstanding dining venues and breathtaking views. In each guest room, decorated with colors and design motifs inspired by the sea, guests enjoy deluxe amenities including upgraded linens, pillow-top mattresses and sleek baths with dual, five-jet showerheads.
In terms of dining, the hotel features three restaurants/bars on site. First, there is Catch 31, popular with hotel guests and locals alike for its hardwood grilled fish, succulent steaks, extensive raw bar, decadent desserts and amazing ocean views. As for those times when a more upscale experience is apropos, there’s Salacia, with menu selections such as Wagyu Kobe beef, prime filet mignon, veal chops and lamb porterhouse—not to mention an award-winning wine list. And, at the top of the hotel lies Sky Bar, which not only boasts a lovely list of fine cocktails and light fare but incredible views of Virginia’s Eastern Shore to the north, the North Carolina border to the south, downtown Norfolk to the west and the Atlantic’s horizon to the east.
As for entertainment, the Hilton lies adjacent to Neptune’s Park, which hosts nightly events throughout the summer, and the Shoppes at 31 Ocean, which provide boutique retail therapy year-round.
Marriott Ranch
540-364-2627; (toll-free) 1-877-324-7344; www.marriottranch.com
Courtesy of Marriott Ranch
Nestled in the Blue Ridge foothills of Fauquier County’s picturesque Hume lies Marriott Ranch—an escape like no other in our area. Discovered by Marriott International Founder J. Willard Marriott, Sr. in 1951, the 4,200-acre ranch remains as unspoiled today as the day he purchased it, back before he had his first hotel. Given that fact, after all of these years, the ranch remains a treasured meeting place for the Marriotts to return to for family gatherings. And, for regular guests, the destination provides the same great hospitality.
As a working farm with over 1,500 heads of cattle, recreational activities at the ranch abound—from horseback riding, cattle driving and four-wheel-drive Jeep tours to Iron Chef-inspired cooking competitions. Given such a wide variety of exciting activities, not to mention three private event sites, the destination is considered ideal for team-building corporate events as well as for large family reunions. Add welcoming overnight accommodations and scrumptious fare at the ranch’s historic bed and breakfast, The Inn at Fairfield Farm—which in the fall provides 360-degree views of peak Blue Ridge foliage—and you’ve got the recipe for romance.
For more information about Marriott Ranch, The Inn at Fairfield farm or Fairfield Farm Caterers, visit www.marriottranch.com or call (toll-free) 1-877-324-7344).
National Museum of the Marine Corps
(toll-free) 1-877-635-1775; www.usmcmuseum.org
From marines and marine family members to those simply fascinated with the more than 200 years’ history of the few and the proud, the nearly 2-year-old National Museum of the Marine Corps has guests enthusiastically saying, “Ooh-rah!” Not only are museum visitors able to follow in the yellow footprints that young recruits must fill in bootcamp, but they are able to follow in the boot prints left in the Pacific Island sand during World War II, in the snow of the Chosin Reservoir during the Korean War and in the red dirt of Hill 881 South in Vietnam.
Beyond the central Leatherneck Gallery, there are four permanent galleries, two temporary exhibitions and various traveling exhibitions—not to mention upfront views of the Harrier, Jenny and Corsairs, which should thrill any aviation buffs. What’s more, refreshments are provided in the Mess Hall and Tun Tavern. And, to make the memories last, plenty of gifts and gear are offered in the museum store.
The National Museum of the Marine Corps is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day except Christmas. Admission is free, as are docent-led tours, which begin daily at 10 a.m., noon and 2 p.m.—no reservations needed. To plan your visit, call (toll-free) 1-877-635-1775, or check out www.usmcmuseum.org.
Virginia Beach
(toll-free) 1-800-VABEACH (822-3224); www.vbfun.com
Courtesy Virginia Beach Tourism
Though certainly a popular summertime destination, Virginia Beach—blessed with mild weather and home to exciting attractions year-round—actually welcomes 63 percent of its visitors during the shoulder season.
While fisherman are thrilled to experience successful fishing at Virginia Beach throughout the year, both inshore and offshore (with two inlets and four fishing piers), golfers delight in teeing off on courses designed by masters such as Couples, Palmer and Nicklaus. Meanwhile, the area offers general outdoor enthusiasts over 18,600 acres of state parks and wildlife refuges to explore, as well as over 121 navigable miles of waterways—which play host to whale-watching boat tours each winter.
Another reason guests flock to Virginia Beach: coastal cuisine. At the Town Center, the area’s new place-to-see-and-be-seen downtown, exclusive dining establishments are aplenty, as are upscale retail and nightlife venues. The Town Center is also home to the Sandler Center for the Performing Arts, which spotlights local, regional and national performers of dance, music and theater.
When it comes to the kids (of all ages), Virginia Aquarium and Marine Science Center, with over 300 hands-on exhibits and an IMAX theater, is a top pick. There visitors are able to splash around with a harbor seal, pet a stingray and spot impressive sharks.
(September 2008)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, January 12th, 2009
By Natalie Kaar
Whether you prefer high-class pampering in a countryside B&B or a resort that allows you to sail on the sea, are looking for serene quarters by mountains practically begging to be explored, or an oceanfront suite on the boardwalk—which ensures your kids won’t get bored—get ready to plan a stress-free spring/summer getaway!
Marriott Ranch / Courtesy of Marriott Ranch
Countryside Cooling Off
According to Catherine Payne of the Fauquier County Department of Economic Development, “Fauquier, Albemarle and Loudoun County have the highest concentration of wineries and vineyards statewide.” And, thanks to the new Fauquier County Wine Trail card, available at the Fauquier County Visitor’s Center and www.visitfauquier.com, planning a winery tour is easier than ever.
Looking for a quick escape from reality? Why not round up a group of friends for an afternoon filled with Virginia wine, surrounded by the beauty that is Fauquier County?
As for other great reasons to unwind in Fauquier this spring/summer, the kids will love the Flying Circus Air Show in Bealeton on Sundays May 4 through October 26, the 30th annual Old Town Warrenton Spring Festival on Main Street in Warrenton May 17 and 18, Upperville Colt & Horse Show on Grafton Farm June 2 to June 8, the 56th annual Fauquier County Fair at the county fairgrounds in Warrenton July 17 to July 20, and much more.
Of course, Saturday, May 3 means it’s time to break out the big hats thanks to the Virginia Gold Cup at Great Meadow in The Plains. And you won’t want to put those hats away because Saturdays from May 31 through September 13 Great Meadow will be home to Twilight Polo.
After spending a relaxing afternoon in Fauquier, ensure the perfect ending to your day by heading north to The Goodstone Inn & Estate in Loudoun County.
Nestled in charming, historic Middleburg, the privately owned 265-acre luxurious inn and estate is recognized as a member of the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels of the World organization. It’s also been nominated by Conde Nast Johansens for the 2008 “Award for Excellence,” and was listed in Patricia Schultz’s best-selling book, “1,000 Places to See Before You Die in the USA and Canada.” And that’s only the beginning of the property’s acclaim.
A true estate, each of its 17 guest rooms and suites, housed in five uniquely delightful cottages—some dating back to the 18th century—are luxuriously appointed. Accoutrements include complimentary wine, port and sherry, homemade cookies, fine bathroom amenities and plush robes. Moreover, recreational opportunities abound on and near the property; guests are even invited to bring their own horses. But, most importantly, visitors are blown away by Goodstone’s welcoming staff.
According to Denise Benoit of Benoit Associates, Brian Crook, Goodstone’s general manager, and his wife, Julie, reservations manager, personally greet each guest in the estate’s carriage house upon their arrival. They sit down and review their itinerary, assisting guests in making dinner reservations in Goodstone’s acclaimed fine-dining American restaurant, Hilltopper’s (led by distinguished executive chef Christopher Carey), reserving a tee time at nearby Stoneleigh Golf Course or perhaps scheduling a massage.
Courtesy of the Goodstone Inn & Estate
If you don’t have time to make a weekend of it, plan to enjoy one of Hilltopper’s special wine-tasting dinners and sample from the estate’s impressive wine cellar. Wednesday, May 7 will bring “A Celebration of Virginia Wine and Food” and Wednesday, June 11, a “French Bistro Evening.”
For more details on The Goodstone Inn & Estate (including special seasonal packages), Hilltopper’s Restaurant or to make reservations, visit www.goodstone.com, call 540-687-4645 or (toll-free) 1-877-219-4663.
Another legendary escape in the heart of Virginia’s hunt and wine country you won’t want to miss: Marriott Ranch. Located in the Blue Ridge foothills of Hume in Fauquier County, the 4,200-acre ranch was discovered by Marriott International’s founder, J. Willard Marriott Sr., in 1951. Mr. Marriott fell in love with the property because it reminded him of his childhood days on his family’s farm in Utah. Today it remains as pristine and serene as the day he purchased it, back before he had his first hotel.
A working farm, with over 1,500 head of cattle, Marriott Ranch remains a treasured place for the Marriott family to return to for family gatherings, and provides regular guests the same benefits. Through its plethora of recreational activities and welcoming rooms in its historic bed and breakfast, The Inn at Fairfield Farm, which dates back to 1814, you won’t be able to help but unwind.
Upon your arrival, you’ll be greeted with a tray of delicious cheeses and assortment of refreshing beverages, which only foreshadow the hospitality to come. Perhaps the best part of staying at The Inn at Fairfield Farm is breakfast, according to Kelly Barrett, director of sales and marketing.
“We are famous for our three-course breakfast, as typically you will not need another meal for quite a while.”
Barrett went on to explain, “Our breakfast starts off with a plate of fresh fruit and homemade pastries, followed by a chef’s selection of breakfast items,” which she said has included everything from ricotta pancakes to smoked Gouda grits to fried green tomatoes. According to her, the meal’s basically whatever one of the ranch’s four chefs, including executive chef J.C. Conklin, is in the mood for that day.
Marriott Ranch / Courtesy of Marriott Ranch
And it’s a good thing that guests start the day well nourished, with activities such as horseback riding, including regular guided trail rides and special day rides, cattle driving, hiking and much more.
Naturally, the ranch, with its three private event sites, is a favorite not only with families but among major local corporations who wish to provide employees with unique, fun team-building events.
To learn more about Marriott Ranch, The Inn at Fairfield Farm, Fairfield Farm Caterers and special packages, visit www.marriottranch.com, call 540-364-2627 or (toll-free) 1-877-324-7344. Additional trail ride information can be obtained on the website or by calling 540-364-3741 or (toll-free) 1-877-278-4574.
Mountainside Mellowing Out
If nothing else appeals to you quite like the scenic mountains of nearby West Virginia, you should consider a trip to Black Bear Resort, in Canaan Valley. As Bonnie Branciaroli, the resort’s marketing director, told us, “It’s close, and yet feels very far away. In three hours, you can be transported from the busy megatropolis to the misty, enchanting mountains.”
Black Bear Resort
The resort, which first opened in 1987, features nearly 150 unique pedestal homes as well as 12 suites, all owned by individual homeowners as second-home vacation units. These same owners, many of whom are from NoVa and western Maryland, together own the resort.
According to Branciaroli, the owners certainly take pride in their resort, and their care is displayed in the maintenance of the resort and its grounds, as well as in the added amenities that families love—including a children’s playground, mini-golf course, tennis courts, a fishing pond with gazebo and outdoor pool.
Half of the pedestals are available for rent through the resort vacation home rental program, and the best news, according to Branciaroli, is “it’s the most family affordable resort experience in the state.”
What also draws families and couples to Black Bear, surrounded by the Monongahela National Forest, are tons of activities nearby, at places such as the nearby Blackwater Falls. The gorgeous Seneca Rocks area, featuring caverns and a climbing wall, is also close, as are plenty of opportunities for biking, hiking, fishing, horseback riding, rafting and canoeing.
Plus, as Branciaroli told us, “The views from the resort are magnificent. You stay in the center of the valley floor, completely surrounded by a mountain rim.” And, as for the overall feel: “homey, safe, unhurried.” In other words, the resort provides a sure-bet wonderful respite.
To learn more about Black Bear Resort and its summer specials, visit www.blackbearwv.com or call (toll-free) 1-800-553-BEAR (2327).
Chesapeake Beach Resort and Spa
Bayside/Oceanside Bliss
And finally, for those of you who consider the sound of waves and salty air as necessary components of a perfect spring/summer vacation, we begin with a beautiful bayside escape about 30 minutes southeast of the District: Chesapeake Beach Resort & Spa in Chesapeake Beach, Md.
A premier destination for anyone wishing to enjoy a relaxing vacation full of boating, fishing, romance, spa pampering or water sports, the resort features luxury hotel accommodations with breathtaking views of the Chesapeake Bay and Calvert Cliffs, a full-service spa, two marinas with slip rentals and charter fishing, two restaurants and an outdoor cafe—with some of the freshest seafood and best barbecue in the area.
Owned by brothers Gerald and Fred Donovan, the hotel first opened in 2004, though the two have long been connected to the area. Rod ‘N’ Reel Restaurant, one of the resort’s three dining spots, was founded by the owners’ family back in 1946.
Although the opulent hotel is still relatively new, according to chief operating officer Orhan Soysal, management is always thinking of new ways to make their guests as comfortable as possible. There are 72 guest rooms total, including six suites and six junior suites, with features such as Jacuzzi tubs and three-sided fireplaces; and this year, large flatscreen HDTVs with built-in DVD players were added to each room.
In addition to offering a bounty of activities on the water, Chesapeake Beach Resort & Spa also features concerts, murder mystery dinners, comedy nights and more. If single, you may dream of someday getting married there, as the resort not only hosts ceremonies right by the water, but features indoor event spaces that overlook the Chesapeake Bay and can comfortably seat 250 guests.
Of course there’s another great beach destination just four hours southeast of D.C. that we can’t help but to mention: Virginia Beach.
Recently named “America’s Least Stressful Metropolitan Area” by bizjournals.com, Virginia Beach obviously also has the appeal of the Atlantic Ocean, plus an iconic boardwalk, lots of exciting new developments and plenty of must-do events. (Helpful hint for those who prefer a quieter spot: Chesapeake Beach, which the locals call “Chick’s Beach,” lies just north of the main resort area, and Sandbridge, just south; both feature calmer waters and more privacy.)
As for new developments, amazing things are still happening at the Town Center of Virginia Beach. Adding to the center’s fabulous array of restaurants, shops and residences, a Westin hotel opened in November 2007, as did the Sandler Center for the Performing Arts.
Meanwhile, at the Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center, construction has begun on a new “Restless Planet” exhibit, to open in early ‘09. This summer, however, don’t miss out on the aquarium’s “Seals Splash,” the only program in the U.S. that allows visitors to interact with harbor seals.
Of course, you’ll also want to check out “Beach Street USA,” taking place on the boardwalk from Memorial Day through Labor Day. Just a few of the featured events: annual Redskins Beach Blitz on May 17 and 18, Hardee’s Latin Fest on June 6 and 7, Stars & Stripes Explosion on July 4 and the Verizon Wireless American Music Festival, August 29 to 31.
As for lodging, if planning to stay in the main resort area, look no further than the new Hilton Virginia Beach Oceanfront (1-757-213-3001).
Located in the heart of the resort district, the 21-story hotel is known for its high level of personal service, posh accommodations, amazing dining venues and breathtaking views. In each guest room, decorated with colors and designs reflective of the sea, you can expect such deluxe amenities as fine linens, pillow-top mattresses and sleek baths with dual, five-jet showerheads.
After a day of beach bliss, you’ll want to savor a meal at the hotel’s Catch 31 restaurant, adored for its hardwood grilled fish, succulent steaks, incredible raw bar, decadent desserts and fantastic views; or Salacia, offering a more upscale experience, with featured entrees such as wagyu Kobe beef, prime filet mignon, veal chops and lamb porterhouse. Then again, you may opt to toast a great getaway with cool cocktails at the hotel’s sleek Sky Bar. Yay, vacay!
(May 2008)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 22nd, 2008
Eight One-Tank Trips to Fuel Your Getaway Needs
By Mary Selden and Wendy Zarganis
Cheap escapes from work and life’s boring parts are very necessary and not hard to do. Instead of renting season 2 of “Lost” and eating ice cream on the couch all weekend, fill up the gas tank and head to these outstanding weekend destinations. They’re liberating, fun and fewer calories than staying at home.
Brooklyn, NY
From Manassas, Miles: 260, Time in Car: 4 hours, 41 minutes
Brooklyn is IT. Manhattan has morphed into a mall with a claustrophobic amount of Starbucks and Jamba Juices in every neighborhood. Brooklyn doesn’t roll like that. NYC’s most populous borough has maintained its street cred and taken over as the hippest New York destination. Music? You can’t swing your iPod without smacking into a Brooklyn live music venue buzzing with talent. Arts? The Brooklyn Academy of Music (30 Lafayette Ave.; 718-636-4100) is an internationally acclaimed urban arts center and home to innovative opera, theater, dance and film. Food? Brooklyn restaurants are garnering a world-wide reputation for outstanding cuisine in every imaginable culinary style. A weekend to New York without visiting Manhattan? Fuggedaboutit, Manhattan won’t even be missed!
Walk This Way
A good start to a Brooklyn adventure is a 40-minute walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. Savor excellent views of the Manhattan skyline through the Bridge’s visually stunning web of intricate steel cables. On the walkway, stay on the clearly marked pedestrian side to be safe from bicyclists on the biking side! Getting in the way of a busy Brooklyn commuter is not the best way to learn about Brooklyn. (The walkway entrance is next to the Federal Court Building in Brooklyn. There are stairs on Cadman Plaza East and Prospect Street or a ramp entrance on Johnson and Adams Streets.)
If visiting Brooklyn at the beginning of the month, check out The Brooklyn Museum’s “First Saturday” (200 Eastern Parkway; 718-638-5000) events on, well, the first Saturday of each month. World-class music, art and entertainment are on hand for free. Visitors can learn to tango, paint or watch an avant-garde film. Food, beverages and a cash bar are available. Parking is $4.
Before there was Brooklyn’s landmark Prospect Park to enjoy, 19th-century Brooklynites relaxed at Green-Wood Cemetery (500 25th St.; 718-768-7300). Seems creepy, but the 478-acre cemetery is home to several lakes, lush flora and fauna (and, of course, over a half million dead people). Basquiat, Leonard Bernstein and many legendary mobsters make Green-Wood their final resting spot. Take one of the walking tours to learn about the Victorian architecture, sculpture and the intriguing history of Green-Wood.
Grab A Slice
Two of Brooklyn’s most famous restaurants have a Manhattan affectation–they are nearly impossible to get into, but both are worth the trouble, even if you have to call weeks in advance. The Peter Luger Steakhouse (178 Broadway; 718-387-7400) consistently takes the title for best steak in New York City. The service is surly, but the reward is an amazing porterhouse steak that nears perfection.
Known for its seafood, the River Cafe (1 Water St.; 718-522-5200) is perhaps Brooklyn’s most romantic restaurant with unbelievably beautiful East River views. Like Peter Luger, though, it’s tough to get reservations on weekends, so plan ahead. For a more accessible culinary experience, walk Park Slope’s Fifth Avenue or spend time on Smith Street in Carroll Gardens. With acclaimed restaurants like Bogota Latin Bistro (141 5th Ave.; 718-230-3805), The Grocery (288 Smith St.; 718-596-3335) and Patois (255 Smith St.; 718-855-1535), nearly all the world’s cuisine is within reach on those two Brooklyn streets alone.
If a slice of famous Brooklyn pizza is on the agenda, head for Grimaldi’s (19 Old Fulton St.; 718-858-4300), and try a “pie” with the coal oven-baked crust, savory sauce and homemade mozzarella, complete with Sinatra crooning from the jukebox.
Buy a Round
Alcohol fans won’t know where to start with the bevy of Brooklyn watering holes. The Wicked Monk (8415 5th Ave., between 84th and 85th; 718-921-0601) is a Zagat’s Brooklyn pub pick for top New York City Irish pub, and is one of the city’s best places to grab a pint or unearthly strong mixed drink. The stained glass and gargoyle decor will please your inner monk (or sinner). The friendly bartenders and death-grip drinks make even the worst night good. The Gate in Park Slope (321 5th Ave; 718-768-4329) offers a great selection of beers on tap and an outdoor garden in the summer months. For live music, Luna Lounge (361 Metropolitan Ave.), the former Lower East Side hotspot, has new digs in Williamsburg and showcases great live independent music.
The only pesky part of a Brooklyn getaway is parking your car. There are numerous lots in the downtown area, but they are expensive and the metered street spaces are hard-won. Be sure to read the signs very, very carefully. Getting towed would not be a pretty end to an otherwise outstanding Brooklyn day.—WZ
Wilmington, Del.
From Washington, Miles: 178, Time in Car: 3 hours, 18 minutes
Lodged on I-95, smack between Washington, D.C. and New York City is Wilmington, Delaware’s largest city, yet it’s a little-known vacation spot. Possibly frustrated by its middle child position in the Interstate 95 family of cities, Wilmington has recently pursued an aggressive cultural renaissance.
Wilmington’s Riverfront Development Corporation has transformed the city’s Christina Riverfront into a charming tourist destination. Previously rougher neighborhoods have improved to make Wilmington an attractive weekend stop.
Wilmington is an easy-to-navigate city and is surprisingly free of the traffic problems that plague many major cities. Most of Wilmington’s attractions are within a 10-minute drive of I-95, so it is very easy to see a lot in one day or one weekend. And Delaware’s tax-free shopping, dining and entertainment can’t be beat.
Blues, Bob Marley and Brandywine
The Delaware Theatre Company and the Delaware Center for the Contemporary Arts are some enticing cultural reasons to visit Wilmington. The Riverfront Market (1 S. Market St.; 302-322-9500) offers a host of culinary choices and nearby Tubman-Garrett Riverfront Park (named after famous Underground Railroad conductors Harriett Tubman and Thomas Garrett) is a lovely landscaped, 2.4-acre park that hosts numerous cultural events including the Bob Marley Festival, the Riverfront Blues Festival and the DuPont Riverfest.
A Wilmington trip wouldn’t be complete without paying homage to the industrialist DuPont family who settled in the nearby Brandywine Valley in the early 1900s and left a legacy of fantastic homes and gardens. The Hagley Museum (200 Hagley Road; 302-658-2400), three miles from downtown Wilmington, is where the DuPont Company found its beginnings. The 230-acre property is where du Pont patriarch E.I. du Pont de Nemours harnessed the Brandywine Creek to fuel his gunpowder factory. Hagley is the original home of the du Ponts and visitors can observe the tastes, styles and gorgeous collections of the five generations of du Ponts who resided there. The Hagley tour guides are exceptional and know the du Pont family history as if it were their own. Tours of the powder mill are included. (Hagley suffered four damaging explosions through the years.)
Art Appreciation
American art aficionados can visit the N.C. Wyeth home and studio in Chadds Ford, Pa., 11 miles from downtown Wilmington, to see first-hand the natural inspirations that convinced Wyeth and his talented family to reside there. The northern light streaming through the spectacular Palladium windows of Wyeth’s studio impressively illuminates the studio workspace.
After touring the studio, see the final result of Wyeth’s artistic labor at the Brandywine River Museum (100 Creek Road; 610-388-2700). The Museum’s setting along Brandywine Creek is as serene as many of the paintings found inside. The collections in the museum focus mainly on American art in the Brandywine region of the 19th century to the present. Lunch at the museum can be enjoyed while overlooking the creek. Outdoor lovers can follow up a visit to the museum with a kayaking ride down the creek during the warmer months.
Art appreciation can create an appetite, so drive back to downtown Wilmington and enjoy dinner–upscale at Harry’s Seafood Grill (101 S. Market St.; 302-777-1500) or casual American cuisine and handcrafted brew at the Iron Hill Brewery (710 S. Madison St.; 302-472-2739).—WZ
Lewes, Del.
From Hartwood, Miles: 176, Time in Car: 3 hours, 27 minutes
Sea, sand and history converge on the appealing town of Lewes (pronounced “LOO-iss”). Lewes was the site of the first European settlement in Delaware in 1631 and holds the honor of being “the first town in the first state.” Situated at Cape Henlopen at the mouth of the Delaware Bay, Lewes was in a unique position early on to be cosmopolitan.
“People in Lewes literally watched the world go by,” said Mike DiPaolo, executive director of The Lewes Historical Society, a group that is actively committed to preserving the town’s special history for tourists and residents alike. “The main shipping channel was at Cape Henlopen. You couldn’t get to Philadelphia without going through Lewes. Lewes is a small town with one eye out on the world.”
History Loves Company
Visitors can start with Lewes’ historical complex. Spend time at the Zwaanendael Museum (102 Kings Highway; 302-645-1148), built in 1931 to honor the 300th anniversary of Delaware’s first European settlement, Swanendael (“Valley of the Swans” in Dutch) in 1631. The building has 17th-century Dutch design elements like the terra cotta roof tiles and decorative window shutters. On the top of the museum stands a statue of David Petersen DeVries, the expedition leader of the settlement group.
From the museum, a short walk leads to historic Second Street. Stop for lunch at the Second Street Grill (115 Second St.; 302-644-4121). Or grab a custom-made specialty coffee drink at the Notting Hill Coffee Roastery (124 2nd St.; 302-645-0733) and head over to The Cannonball House (118 Front St.), which still holds a cannonball in its foundation after the bombardment of Lewes by the British in the War of 1812. The Cannonball House currently is used as a maritime museum.
Drive a mile east to Cape Henlopen State Park (42 Cape Henlopen Drive; 302-645-8983) to 4,000 acres of beaches. The park is open year-round and offers a nature center and the remains of Fort Miles, used by the Army to protect the coastline during World War II.
If shopping is a priority for you, and it should be in Delaware, head back on Route 1, about 3 miles south, to the Tanger Outlets at Rehoboth Beach (36470 Seaside Outlet Drive; 866-665-8682). Take advantage of Delaware’s tax-free shopping status at over 130 designer and manufacturer outlets.—WZ
Cape May, NJ
From Alexandria, Miles: 150, Time in Car: About 4 hours
Of all the Jersey Shore’s multiple personalities, I like Cape May the best. She’s a distinguished older woman—prim and neat, yet spunky and full of good clean fun. She’ll keep you busy all day—bicycling through town, sunning on the beach, popping in and out of shops or sitting on the veranda with a glass of lemonade—but when 10 o’clock rolls around, she’ll bid you good night. She’s happy to leave the mischief-making to her noisy neighbor, Atlantic City. And while some may see this as a personality flaw, I love her for it.
Isn’t it Enchanting?
When you first arrive, you’ll want to clap your hands with delight at the storybook shops, gingerbread houses and tree-lined streets. With more than 600 Victorian structures—complete with latticework and rainbow trim—it’s the kind of place that risks artificial charm, but here it feels just right. In many ways, it’s like going back in time—passersby smile at you and shopkeepers speak to you as bicyclists pedal by in slow motion.
While it’s tempting to cram every minute full of sightseeing, there’s more satisfaction in finding a few memorable places—such as Leaming’s Run Gardens (1845 Route 9 North; 609-465-5871). Set in a piney woodland, the gardens surprise at every turn—a bridge here, a gazebo there, an old whaler’s home tucked beneath leafy foliage. Paths wind through 30 acres showcasing snow-white waterlilies, pink-lipped roses and clouds of hydrangeas. The gardens are brilliant from May through October, but August is particularly magical, when hundreds of ruby-throated hummingbirds descend on the gardens, their delicate wings beating in a blur.
Beachcomber Delights
Another favorite is Cape May Point, a tiny town just a few miles west of the historic district. It’s home to Sunset Beach, the only place you’ll find Cape May “diamonds”—quartz pebbles that resemble the precious gem when polished. Sunset Beach is excellent for walking, but bring shoes for the coarse sand and pebbles. In the early morning hours, you’ll see sea, sky and shorebirds, but few people. Evenings bring comfortable breezes, a locally famous flag ceremony and splendid sunsets of amber, gold and violet.
Besides all the predictable seaside activities, Cape May offers multiple tours, antique shows, equestrian events, a few theaters and festivals such as the famous Spring Festival and the not-so-famous Lima Bean Festival. The town is also known for its Charles Dickens’-style Christmas with candlelit home tours, tree-lighting ceremonies, caroling and over-the-top decorations. More intimate activities include concerts in some of the old estates and photography workshops conducted by traveling professionals.—MS
Hartford, Conn.
From McLean, Miles: 350, Time in Car: About 6 hours
Sandwiched between urban prima donnas New York City and Boston, Hartford has often been overlooked as a destination in itself. It doesn’t help that the city has acquired the rather boring title of “Insurance City” since it headquarters industry giants like Aetna and Travelers, among others. But I love the irony of it—a city that now makes its living by reducing risk was forged by the very risks it took.
Early residents were key players in the American Revolution, Union allies during the Civil War and eager actors in the Industrial Revolution. Many Connecticut residents worked the Underground Railroad, assisting slaves in their escape to northern states and Canada. In fact, parts of the Connecticut Freedom Trail—which identifies several sites associated with the journey to freedom—are located in Hartford.
First-Hand History
History is everywhere here, so forget the textbooks and come see for yourself. Visit the Nook Farm neighborhood to see the home of Samuel Clemens, a.k.a. Mark Twain (77 Forest St.; 860-247-0998). The structure somewhat resembles a steamboat, harkening back to the author’s days as a steamboat pilot. The hodgepodge house with asymmetrical design and circus colors shows his silly side—evidence that he saw himself as a humorist rather than a serious writer.
My favorite part is the storytelling tour guides, who conjure up images of the man himself smoking cigars in the billiard room and writing his legendary stories—“Tom Sawyer” and “Huckleberry Finn.”
While you’re in the neighborhood, visit the home of Harriet Beecher Stowe, author of the renowned anti-slavery novel “Uncle Tom’s Cabin.” Although her home is simple compared to Clemens’s home, it contains compelling exhibits about her life, slavery and women’s rights.
Curtain Call
After a day soaking up local history, don’t get too comfortable—there’s more to do when the lights go out. Downtown, there’s a thriving performing arts scene—some of the best performances are at the Bushnell Center for the Performing Arts (166 Capitol Ave.; 860-987-6000), which features everything from musical theater to cabaret to comedy. The center recently kicked off a new “Literature to Life” series—theatrical adaptations of popular books such as “The Secret Life of Bees” and “The Kite Runner.”
TheaterWorks (233 Pearl St.; 860-527-783) is an excellent off-Broadway venue with a cozy theater seating just 200 audience members. Night owls can hang out at the Pig’s Eye Pub (356 Asylum St.; 860-278-4747) for drinks and live music with no cover charge.—MS
Bristol, Tenn.
From Fairfax, Miles: 360, Time in Car: About 6 hours
From Appalachian hills and hollows to stockcars dragging the speedway, Bristol is a little bit country and a little bit rock. The region was once America’s final frontier—Davy Crockett and Daniel Boone both roamed these parts, while the tales grew taller on down the line.
These days, residents tout their storied past, but they keep an eye toward the future. Since 1921, the city’s slogan has been “A Good Place to Live,” and the locals will often tell you what they like about their city. “Folks are friendly,” said one. “Low cost of living,” said another. Although the city is split between Tennessee and Virginia—the state line runs down the middle of State Street—you’ll find the same hospitality and sense of pride on both sides.
Country Music Capital
An early hubbub of music, Bristol’s roots include folk, old-time, Celtic, jazz and bluegrass. The monument off State Street marks the city’s claim to fame as the “birthplace of country music”—the first commercial recordings of country music were made on this very spot in 1927, among them the Carter family and Jimmie Rodgers. The Birthplace of Country Music Alliance operates a museum in the Bristol Mall (500 Gate City Highway; 276-591-5999) that contains an autoharp that belonged to the Carters among other things, and they’re slated to open a huge Cultural Heritage Center dedicated to country music in early 2008.
To get a real feel for the region’s current music scene, go to local pickin’ sessions, (www.birthplaceofcountrymusic.org for locations, or come for the Rhythm and Roots Reunion, Sept. 14–16; www.bristolrhythm.com). During the festival, several dozen artists with styles from ragtime to rock perform on various downtown stages. For an extra kick, join the jalapeno-eating contest for charity but beware the competition.
Ready, Set, Go!
There’s no better place to witness Bristol’s wild streak than the Bristol Motor Speedway (151 Speedway Blvd.; 423-989-6933). Here, stock car racing fans pack “Thunder Valley” to watch cars spin around the world’s fastest half-mile track. Since the sport originates from Prohibition-era bootleggers speeding down mountainsides while trying to outrun the law, I like to think of the racers as modern-day “moonshine runners.”
After racing season is over, the speedway is transformed into a surreal holiday spectacle. From mid-November to January, “Speedway in Lights” features a random yet festive collection of holiday displays as well as an ice skating rink. Where else can you see a race car, dinosaurs and Santa Claus in a pickup truck all made from Christmas lights?
Country Kids
Bristol also is a great place for kids. The 200-million-year-old Bristol Caverns (Bristol Caverns Highway; 423-878-2077) is full of geological formations spanning three levels. Guides will lead you along paths once frequented by Native Americans, who used the caverns to stage attacks on settlers. Adventurous families with children ages 4 and up can race motorcycles at Muddy Creek Raceway in nearby Blountville (423-323-5497). Dates available for open racing vary. Spectators are always welcome for the motorcycle and ATV races.—MS
Block Island, RI
From: McLean, Miles: 405 (to Point Judith Ferry), Time in Car: 7 hours, 23 mintues, Ferry Time: 30 minutes high speed; 1 hour traditional ferry
A tropical New England seems like an oxymoron, conjuring up strange images of Bostonians in Bermuda shorts. However, tropical New England is what visitors to Block Island will find. Twelve miles off the coast of Rhode Island, Block Island is characterized by Caribbean blue water and stunning sunsets amid historic New England-style architecture. These disparate characteristics earned Block Island the nickname “Bermuda of the North.” For those weekend-trippers looking for an island getaway without the hassle and expense of getting out to the Caribbean, Block Island fits the bill.
Taxi Tour Guides
From the moment of arrival on Block Island, adventure awaits. A taxi tour is recommended to get an overview of the Island and its notable sights. Many of the taxi drivers are longtime residents (“old salts” is their affectionate moniker) and are happy to share their comprehensive knowledge of the island–from nature trails to facts about Block Island’s school system.
Avery Kirby, a 30-year resident of Block Island who claims his age is “anywhere between 5 and 67 years old, depending on what time of day it is,” gives taxi tours tailored to the passenger’s request. “Seeing is believing,” Kirby, a carpenter by trade, said of Block Island. “It’s a small island with biking and hiking trails. Whatever activities you’re into, everybody can come here and enjoy. I’m not a white-collar person,” he said, “but I can share what insights I have [about Block Island] and you can interpret them how you wish.”
Vin McAloon is another resident taxi driver and Block Island guide. Like Kirby, McAloon has a wealth of Block Island information and his tours cover any and all of the 7-mile long, 3-mile wide island. The 67-year-old McAloon, a former Block Island Chief of Police, raised his four daughters on the Island. McAloon drives his cab year-round even in the slow winter months. “It’s a fun thing to do,” he said of his taxi guiding, “though in the winter sometimes we [the year-round cabbies] just drive around and pretend to be busy.”
Off-Season Stop
For tourists who prefer to explore the island on their own, hiking or biking is an easy way to get around the Block. The North Lighthouse (Sandy Point, north end of island; 401-466-3200) that overlooks a National Wildlife Refuge, is a popular sightseeing stop. The breathtaking 160-foot Mohegan Bluffs provide unbelievable views of the ocean and Montauk Point, Long Island, N.Y. in the distance. Travelers with kids should stop at the Abrams’ Animal Farm (Spring and High Streets; 401-466-2421) and enjoy the diverse collection of emus, llamas, sheep, goats and camels.
The downside to a summer escape on Block Island is many, many people have the same idea. (Remember those Bostonians in Bermuda shorts? Well, they’re touring the Island’s North lighthouse right now.) A way to experience the beauty and charm of Block Island without suffering the crowds is to make it an off-season stop.
“The weather is not as much of an issue here as you would think,” said Block Island Tourism Council Executive Director Jessica Dugan of the off-season. “It’s sometimes very windy, but you can find good deals in October or November. The weather is still nice then. Mid-week is also a good time to visit.”—WZ
Asheville, NC
From: Gainesville, Miles: 440, Time in Car: Approximately 7 hours
I have seen the soul of Asheville, and it is blue. It’s the mountain breath, the city’s afternoon light, the chicory crowding the roadside. From the top of Chimney Rock, Lake Lure taints the surrounding green with blue blood. Even the music’s blue.
Grand Dwelling
Perhaps it was the blue beauty that captured the heart of George Vanderbilt, who called the region “the most beautiful spot in the world.” He later went on to build his dream home here—what still is the largest private residence in America, Biltmore Estate (1 Approach Road; 800-625-1575). Although the 250-room home teems with art, antiques, books and furniture, it’s easy to imagine that his most treasured asset might have been the view from the back terrace—the misty Blue Ridge stretching across the horizon.
Upon arriving at the Biltmore, it’s natural to feel overwhelmed—by beauty, of course, but also because there’s so much to see. Inside, there’s the two-story Baroque library, bowling alley and indoor pool, and artwork by masters such as Renoir, Sargent and Whistler. Outside, you can wander miles of paths through extensive gardens and mature landscape. Then there’s the winery, shops, farm village, stables, restaurants and outdoor activities like horseback riding and canoeing.
To make the most of your visit, arrive at the estate in the evening and buy a ticket for the next day—this allows you to tour the property that evening and the next full day. Evening visits are generally less crowded and provide a good chance to tour the house without crowds.
Downtown Digs
If you ever make it off the Biltmore Estate, you may be inclined to spend the rest of your time exploring Asheville’s charming downtown. If you’re a gamer, stop by The Sword and the Grail (9 Biltmore Ave.; 828-254-9989), which houses a good selection of board games, video games and comics. While there, I met more than one bona fide gamer able to give great recommendations.
Next, visit the historic Grove Arcade Public Market (1 Page Ave.; 828-252-7799) to peruse produce, clothing and crafts, or shop Tops for Shoes for a pair of BCBG kitten heels. The Chocolate Fetish will fuel just that, but it’s hard to resist the dark chocolate dusted with chili powder that offers a taste of ancient South American civilization.
For local artwork, including painted furniture and handcrafted jewelry, the New Morning Gallery (7 Boston Way; 828-274-2831) is a worthwhile stop. The two-level store also carries pottery, three-dimensional wooden puzzles and much more. Folk-art aficionados should attend the Southern Highland Craft Guild Fair, held biannually in July and October, which gathers together more than 200 crafts artists for a celebration of southern art.—MS
(September 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 22nd, 2008
New Boutique Hotels Cater to Hipster Travelers
By Katie Wilmeth / Photography by David Phelps
Hotel Monaco, Alexandria
Troy Furbay won’t name names. But he will confirm that his hotels have played host to a long list of the who’s who in the entertainment, sports and political worlds when they find themselves in Washington, D.C. for the night.
“We get a lot of really good political coverage at The Monaco and The George,” said Furbay, vice president of acquisitions for The Kimpton Group, a San Francisco-based hotel developer known for its hip, buzzed-about boutique hotels, including seven in the District. “The Monaco gets all the basketball teams and we get quite a few of the music performers that are playing across the street [at the Verizon Center]. We’ve even had a handful of groups practice their shows in our ballroom.”
In a town that’s long fought its buttoned-up reputation, Kimpton has staked its claim as the place to be and be seen in Washington with themed hotels that provide more than a place to sleep at night. The kitschy Hotel Helix pays homage to pop culture with oversized black and white photos of entertainment icons in the lobby and in-room mini bars stocked with Pop Rocks and Twizzlers. Topaz Hotel aims to help guests find their bliss with Zen-inspired yoga rooms and the sleek Hotel Rouge with its heavy-on-the-mood-lighting bar provides a place for a sexy weekend getaway.
Under Furbay’s direction, the Kimpton hotels and their special brand of hipness have been quietly upping D.C.’s cool factor since they moved into the city five years ago.
And now he’s turning his attention to Northern Virginia.
Image Makeover
Furbay and his team have announced plans to open no fewer than three Kimpton properties in Northern Virginia by 2008.
The Hotel Palomar will open in Rosslyn this September. The Hotel Monaco, along with another yet-to-be-named Kimpton property, will open on King Street in Alexandria later this fall.
The hotels will offer something new to Northern Virginians, who until now had to cross the Potomac River or head to New York City if they sought a stylish weekend getaway.
Hotel Monaco, Alexandria
“Literally, we were all more than excited,” said Stephanie Landrum, acting executive director of the Alexandria Economic Development Partnership, Inc., of Kimpton’s decision to move to the highly-trafficked King Street. “There’s a hole in the market in terms of funky different hotels.”
The Hotel Monaco, which already has a four-star location in the Penn Street Quarter in Washington, D.C., will open its doors on the site of the old Holiday Inn across the street from Alexandria’s City Hall this fall. Designed as one of Kimpton’s more luxurious properties, the pet-friendly hotel is appointed in black and white lush furnishings accented with vibrant reds, blues and greens and comes complete with standard luxuries, such as terry cloth robes and a CD player in every room. To add to the sophistication, the hotel features a nightly wine reception in the lobby to help guests unwind from a day of shopping in Old Town.
As at all Kimpton properties, guests of The Monaco can arrange for special in-room spa services, such as the Fleurs de Chocolat Hot Stone Massage or a rice and sake hand and foot treatment. For those who need company, the concierge can arrange for an in-room goldfish to brighten up the room.
Hotel Monaco also features several unique guest rooms and amenities, such as the Monte Carlo Tall Rooms, designed specifically with the tall traveler in mind with high ceilings and extra long beds.
But more than offering a fresh hotel for King Street, Alexandria officials and business owners hope the Monaco will signal the continuing transformation of Old Town Alexandria from a once stodgy tourist attraction to a destination for young professionals and families. With more and more retail shops moving into Alexandria that are targeted to a demographic similar to the Hotel Monaco, it was a natural fit, Landrum said.
“Instead of gifts that had Alexandria and pictures of George Washington emblazoned on them, we’re seeing different types of gift shops pop up,” Landrum said. “They attract a different audience to come and shop along King Street and I think that’s what Kimpton is banking on. It’s more their type of clientele.”
High-end boutiques such as Hysteria, Diva and Shoe Hive have added a kick to Old Town’s retail offerings, and proprietors are hoping Hotel Monaco will drive additional traffic to their stores.
“Instead of gifts that had Alexandria and pictures of George Washington emblazoned on them, we’re seeing different types of gift shops pop up,” Landrum said.
“It’s obviously going to turn around what was once a more standard, conventional hotel and hopefully make it more interesting,” said Ethan Drath, owner of Hysteria, a women’s clothing boutique on South Fairfax Street that, until Alexandria’s recent renaissance, probably would have looked more at home in Georgetown. “I would like to think our demographics are pretty similar [to Kimpton’s]. In relation to what Old Town is known to be, that hotel will be pushing the envelope.”
Kimpton’s second hotel will be near the King Street Metro in the new Carlyle neighborhood, but they have not yet announced which brand will go into the space. In addition, Kimpton owns the Morrison House, but continues to run it under that established name rather than converting it to a Kimpton-branded property.
Not a Suburb Hotel
While Alexandria is looking to Kimpton for an image boost, Arlington’s Hotel Palomar is going into an established part of Rosslyn and will go head-to-head with District hotels catering to business travelers and weekend tourists.
“We really looked at this [Palomar] as a central business district property,” Furbay said. “We didn’t look at this as a suburb hotel. We looked at it as another D.C. hotel that just happened to be on the other side of the bridge.”
Furbay said the property will compete with such hotels as The Ritz-Carlton in Georgetown, which is about the same distance from downtown Washington as the Hotel Palomar will be.
Set to open in September, Palomar also comes with a twist. It will open in conjunction with The Waterview, a condo from Chevy Chase-based developer The JBG Companies. Occupying the lower floors of the high-rise building, condo residents will be offered the same amenities, such as room service and in-room spa services, as Palomar guests.
The Palomar has a homier feel, albeit a high-end home, than the brightly colored Monaco and features a motif of dark woods and rich leather furniture. Its close proximity to Georgetown and D.C.’s tourist attractions make it a great place for tourists looking to see Washington in style, Furbay said.
Hotel Palomar, Arlington
But it’s the view, said Furbay, that will keep D.C.-bound guests staying on the Arlington side of the river.
“The most unique thing about it will be it has some of the most spectacular views in D.C.,” he said. “Get on the upper floors of the building facing back over to Georgetown and you can see the whole city. It’s as good a view as any condo [in the area]. It will be pretty spectacular.”
With views like that, Hotel Palomar will likely feature Fourth of July packages for its guests. While Furbay said the Northern Virginia properties haven’t yet determined which packages will be available, Kimpton is known for offering uniquely themed, quirky packages. For example, a recent promotion at the Hotel Madera, another Kimpton property in the District, called the “Mother Earth” package was offered in conjunction with Earth Day and featured a welcome gift of organic wine and fair-trade chocolates and a 50-minute in-room massage.
Taking a Cue
The Kimpton hotels in Arlington and Alexandria will surely be buzzed about, but the company isn’t the only one venturing into Northern Virginia. In a nod of confidence to the market in the technology-heavy Dulles area, Starwood Hotels and Resorts, which owns the successful boutique chain W Hotels, will open its newest concept hotel near Dulles Airport in 2008.
Aimed at the busy, yet hip, traveler, aloft Hotel will draw in guests with business meetings beyond Washington, D.C.
Hotel Palomar, Arlington
“We consider Dulles a vibrant destination,” said Brian McGuiness, vice president of aloft Hotels Worldwide. “We love the fact that technology [companies] are in that zone because generally technos are early adopters and they’re looking for the next big thing.”
Despite its Fairfax location, aloft has an urban feel, McGuiness said, with loft-like guestrooms that feature floor-to-ceiling windows and sleek furnishings.
Unlike the Kimpton properties, which will compete with high-end hotels, aloft is more geared toward the business traveler and is more in line service- and price-wise with hotels such as the Hilton Garden Inn or the Marriott Courtyard. The hotel comes with all the amenities a business traveler would need, such as Internet access, but pares down room costs by limiting other services. For example, aloft offers a 24-hour grab-and-go cafe instead of room service.
Its Northern Virginia location will provide travelers with access to businesses in Fairfax and Loudoun Counties and in the District, McGuiness said.
“It’s far enough away from the city, but close enough in that you don’t feel like you’re lost in farmland,” McGuiness said.
Northern Virginia’s influx of boutique hotels is not unique to the region. All across the country as travelers get savvier about their needs, suburban locations are popping up—especially in affluent areas with many young professionals, said Joe McInnerney, president and CEO of the American Hotel and Lodging Association.
“The trend of these smaller boutique hotels going to second- and third-tier cities and the suburbs is happening all over the country,” McInnerney said. “It’s a new wave of hotels that are being built in the markets where there’s a need for these hotels … [The average traveler], they don’t have gray hair, I’ll tell you that. They’re the marketplace.”
Liz Debarros, vice president of the Hotel Association of Washington, D.C. agreed, saying the new Northern Virginia locations will give District hotels a run for their money.
“People are getting more sophisticated about traveling and they’re wanting their needs met, so what you’re seeing in the city you’re seeing in the suburbs as well,” she said. “And I think the suburbs are competing with us to get those customers now.”
Whether or not the new hotels can lure travelers used to staying in D.C. away to Northern Virginia remains to be seen. But one thing is for sure. Kimpton—and the boutique hotels that follow on its heels—will likely quietly up the cool factor in Alexandria and Arlington, just as it did in Washington.
“It’s a change in hotels, retail, restaurants and the image in general,” said Landrum, who is a young professional herself, of the image boost hip hotels and other businesses are bringing to Northern Virginia. “We’re not trying to become a spring break haven. We’re trying to serve the people who live here and recognize that we have young professionals living here … As somebody who grew up here, it’s nice to want to take my friends to Old Town.”
(September 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 22nd, 2008
Visions of rocky terrain and the open sea dance in your head as you daydream about escaping your cramped cubicle. Your spouse inundates you with “what-ifs” as he imagines fireside chats in a mountainside chalet away from the kids. A twirl with Spanish flamenco dancers sounds like just the thing to break the monotony. Turn your dreams of romance, adventure and peculiarity into reality. Get some time, get some ideas and get away from it all.
By Tracey Edgerly Meloni, Kathy Witt and Soyia Ellison
BY ROAD
“Get out of town!” The words immediately invoke daydreams of hitting the open road, and with a car and a plan, maybe a map or two, you can wake up and make it happen. Your challenge: Find a few destinations that can fulfill the need for romance, adventure and good old American quirkiness. Think outside the guidebooks and expect the unexpected. Get ready, get packed—go!
By Tracey Edgerly Meloni
Annapolis, Maryland
ROMANTIC
Set sail on the open bay and make a toast to love. The Schooner Woodwind is a 72-foot yacht that opens its staterooms to four couples for an overnight stay in Annapolis, Md. Depart for an evening sunset cruise around the Chesapeake and return to land for dinner at any of Annapolis’ noteworthy seafood restaurants. Return to the mighty hulk and sleep peacefully snuggled up to your sweetie as you gently bob over lapping waves. Awake to a continental brunch spread waiting for you on-deck. Pinch yourself—this is no dream. Schooner Woodwind, Annapolis, Md.; 410-263-7837; www.schoonerwoodwind.com
TO DO: Share together the sweet taste of luxury at Annapolis Day Spa, where couples are pampered with champagne facials and rose petal foot treatments. Annapolis, Md.; 888-800-2636; www.annapolisspa.com TO EAT: Carrol’s Creek Cafe Contemporary American; entrees $21-30; Annapolis, Md.; 410-263-8102; www.carrolscreek.com. Tucked inside the Annapolis City marina, watch from your table as yachts and motorboats dock for an elegant meal. TO STAY: O’Callaghan Hotel; Rates begin at $169. Annapolis, Md.; 410-263-7700; www.ocallaghanhotels.com/Annapolis. Part of the Dublin chain of decadent hotels, O’Callaghan’s inspires with warm wood accents and proximity to shopping and water strolls.
ADVENTURE
Long before the United States fielded an all-female America’s Cup race, there was Womanship, an all-women sailing school founded in 1984. For every gal who felt intimidated by the thought of sailing open waters or had visions of macho men folk puffing up their sails, Womanship is liberating. The course offers sailor-ettes invaluable tools in fueling, steering and docking boats. Womanship, Annapolis, Md.; 800-342-9295; www.womanship.com
TO DO: Sign up for the Great Chesapeake Bay Swim the second Sunday of June each year. The challenging 4.4-mile crawl across the Chesapeake Bay begins at Sandy Point. Annapolis, Md.; 856-468-0010; www.bayswim.com TO EAT: Pusser’s Caribbean Grille; Caribbean; entrees $15-20; Annapolis, Md.; 410-626-0004. Venture out to the islands without going very far at this waterfront island eatery. TO STAY: Scotlaur Inn Bed & Breakfast; rates begin at $115; Annapolis, Md.; 410-268-5665; www.scotlaurinn.com. The family-run Scotlaur Inn is found in the heart of the city, close to all of the action.
PECULIAR
For kids that fantasize about treasure maps and plank-walking, eye patches and hand hooks, Pirate Adventures in Annapolis offers swashbuckling fun on the Chesapeake for the whole family. Suit up in motley gear, paint on a moustache or tattoo, and clamor aboard the “Sea Gypsy” for a rollicking ride. Evade Pirate Pete while hunting for golden treasure. Goodies and surprises abound aboard a well-chaperoned ship. Sorry, it’s B.Y.O.P.—Bring Your Own Parrot. Pirate Adventures, Annapolis, Md.; 410-263-0002; www.chesapeakepirates.com
TO DO: Travel to a time of jousting knights and merry maidens each summer at the Renaissance Festival. Annapolis, Md.; 800-296-7304; www.rennfest.com TO EAT: Wild Orchid Cafe Contemporary; entrees $26-34 Annapolis, Md.; 410-268-8009; www.thewildorchidcafe.com. Wild Orchid appears not just in the name of this elegant restaurant, but also in the food. The upscale eatery accents many of their dishes with edible flowers. TO STAY: The Georgian House Bed and Breakfast; Rates begin at $170; Annapolis, Md.; 410-557-2068. The 250-year-old home, filled with period furniture and antique oil paintings, was once a club where the signers of the Declaration of Independence gathered.
Baltimore, Maryland
ROMANTIC
Enter the secluded courtyard of the Harbor Court Hotel in Baltimore, Md. and step into the roles of Julia Roberts and Richard Gere in “Runaway Bride.” (Little known fact: A majority of the movie was filmed in Baltimore.) The junior suite overlooks the Inner Harbor and the spacious marble bathroom alone is worth the price of admission. The hotel’s own Hampton’s restaurant is hushed and intimate, a lushly layered seduction of textured silk and wood. Save it for Sunday brunch, when champagne washes down unique takes on old favorites.
TO DO: Get saucy on the dance floor and salsa with your sweetie at the Havana Club. Baltimore, Md.; 410-468-0022; www.havanaclub-baltimore.com TO EAT: Ambassador Dining Room; Indian; entrees $17-25; Baltimore, Md.; 410-366-1484; www.ambassadordiningroom.com. In a glamorous setting befitting royalty, the Ambassador serves Zagat-noted Indian cuisine. TO STAY: Harbor Court Hotel; rates begin at $200; Baltimore, Md.; 410-234-0550; www.harborcourt.com. Luxury abounds in each room of the famous Harbor Court Hotel.
ADVENTURE
The American Visionary Art Museum in Baltimore aims to fulfill the wishes of offbeat thrill seekers. Time your visit just right and you can join in a celebration of artistic adventure on wheels: the museum-sponsored Kinetic Sculpture Race. Self-taught artists and wannabe engineers design “human-powered sculpture,” improvised floats to carry them over a 15-mile, eight-hour grueling course involving hills, mud and a dunk in the harbor. On-board team members not providing power are scoffed as “Barnacles.” Teams compete for the coveted “Mediocre Award,” which goes to the team finishing smack in the middle. American Visionary Art Museum, Baltimore, Md.; 410-244-1900; www.avam.org
TO DO: Satisfy your recurring dreams of flying with a tandem jump hosted by Baltimore Skydiving. Baltimore, Md.; 800-585-5555; www.skydivingbaltimore.com TO EAT: Nasu Blanca; Japanese-Spanish; entrees $26-39 Baltimore, Md.; 410-962-9890; www.nasublanca.com. In one sitting, guests can adventure into two continents with dishes like chili-powdered sashimi and unique miso tapas. TO STAY: Scarborough Fair Bed & Breakfast; rates begin at $162; Baltimore, Md.; 410-837-0010; www.scarborough-fair.com. Located within walking distance of The American Visionary Museum and other popular attractions, this B&B is a historic Federal Hill classic.
PECULIAR
In May, horse jockeys have visions of black-eyed-Susans being draped around their necks as victors of Pimlico’s Preakness. But Baltimore routes for its own little victory with a jumpstart to the Preakness party. The Preakness Crab Derby is a long-standing tradition held one week prior to the actual race in May. Watch local media personalities and politicos as they coach and coax their crustaceans to the finish line at the Lexington Market. Lexington Market, Baltimore, Md.; 410-685-6169; www.lexingtonmarket.com
TO DO: Yes, it’s true. The exciting and fascinating world of teeth is on display at the Dr. Samuel D. Harris National Museum of Dentistry. Play a tune on the tooth jukebox and take a tour of George Washington’s gnashers. Baltimore, Md.; 410-706-0600; www.dentalmuseum.umaryland.edu TO EAT: Ze Mean Bean Cafe; East European; entrees $15-25; Baltimore, Md.; 410-675-5999; www.zemeanbean.com. Borscht, pierogis and strudel are served with a nod toward an East European palate. TO STAY: Boat and Breakfast on the Pintita; rates begin at $200; Baltimore, Md.; 410-435-2078; www.sailthepintita.com. Don’t leave the water; boat and breakfast on the Pintita, located in historic Fell’s Point.
Harpers Ferry, West Virginia
ROMANTIC
Find Swiss-inspired romance at the Bavarian Inn in Shepherdstown, W.Va. Book an Alpine Chalet overlooking the Potomac River Bend. Savor your private whirlpool tub, don a fluffy robe and sip champagne before the roaring fire in your very sweet suite. Venture out to the welcoming dining rooms for house pate and schnitzel. Bavarian Inn, Shepherdstown, W.Va.; 304-876-2551; www.bavarianinn.com
TO DO: Steal a kiss atop the rocky steps of St. Peter’s Catholic Church while getting a birds-eye view of the Potomac. Historic Harpers Ferry, W.Va.; 304-535-6029; www.nps.gov/hafe TO EAT: Stone Soup Bistro Contemporary; entrees $16-32; Shepherdstown, W.Va.; 304-876-8477; www.stonesoupbistro.com. Like stepping inside someone’s home, the restaurant offers personalized service in a cozy setting. TO STAY: Hilltop House Hotel; rates begin at $70; Harpers Ferry, W.Va.; 304-535-2132; www.hilltophousehotel.net. Perched on a cliff overlooking the point where the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers meet, the historic hilltop beckons romance.
ADVENTURE
You have taken a day-long hike into the beautiful trails of West Virginia. The sun sets over the ridge and you panic knowing your canteen is empty. Relieved, you remember that survival hike you took with River & Trail Outfitters. The adventure company teaches hiking enthusiasts how to manufacture and purify water and build a shelter from the elements that lay at your very feet. With survival skills like these, light hiking doesn’t ever have to be a nightmare. River & Trail Outfitters, Knoxville, Md. (across the bridge from Harpers Ferry, W.Va.); 888-IGOPLAY; www.rivertrail.com
TO DO: Rent a bike and join a guided tour along the Potomac River. Harpers Ferry, W.Va.; 800-326-7238; www.riverriders.com TO EAT: Kazu; Thai-Japanese; entrees $12-22; Shepherdstown, W.Va.; 304-876-8798. Good sushi in West Virginia? Believe it. The tiny restaurant serves quality sushi and noodle dishes with fair prices. TO STAY: Camp Hill Carriage House Bed & Breakfast; rates begin at $150; Harpers Ferry, W.Va.; 304-535-2657; www.camp-hill.com. Relax from a day’s worth of adventures in private suites facing the Blue Ridge Mountains.
PECULIAR
Sitting in daily traffic, we often daydream of moving to the country. Cheer your favorite cow. Support the prized pig. Cackle back to the chickens. It doesn’t get any more country than this. Every summer, folks at the Jefferson County Fair celebrate the region’s farmers with a down-home celebration including livestock contests and bake-offs. Or tour history through the John Brown Wax Museum in historic Harpers Ferry. Special effects animate 10 different scenes of the famous abolitionist’s life. John Brown Wax Museum, Harpers Ferry, W.Va.; 304-535-6342; www.johnbrownwaxmuseum.com
TO DO: Have a model train collection that only a fellow enthusiast can appreciate? Harpers Ferry Toy Train Museum houses toy trains predating 1938. Harpers Ferry, W.Va.; 304-535-2291 TO EAT: Yellow Brick Bank Contemporary; entrees $17-26; Shepherdstown, W.Va.; 304-876-2208; www.yellowbrickbank.com. A favorite destination of Nancy Reagan, this bank-turned-eatery holds its wine bottles in what used to be the vault. TO STAY: The Angler’s Inn; rates begin at $105; Harpers Ferry, W.Va.; 304-535-1239; www.theanglersinn.com. This amiable Victorian home offers homemade chocolate chip cookies.
BY TRACK
Does a mountainside sip of wine with your spouse sound like an unattainable fairy tale? When was the last time you lounged in your own poolside cabana and had a massage? These musings don’t have to be impossible dreams, and what’s more, they’re just a few tracks away. Pack your valise, board the train and head to the heart of Georgia’s wine country, Northern Indiana’s Amish Country or the non-theme park side of Orlando.
By Kathy Witt
Dahlonega, Georgia
ROMANTIC
To your dream of getting away from it all and spending alone time with your significant other, add this: the piquant scent of savory comestibles and the sound of water rushing down a mountainside. Pack a sumptuous lunch from the Picnic Cafe & Dessertery, located at the town square in Dahlonega, Ga., and head to Amicalola Falls State Park. Meander about Georgia’s wine country and sample the grape. Pull up a chair to a mountainside view and stare into each other’s eyes over a bottle of signature wine at one of four distinctly unique wineries: Frogtown Cellars, Blackstock Vineyards and Winery, Three Sisters Vineyards, and Wolf Mountain Vineyards. Picnic Cafe & Dessertery, Dahlonega, Ga.; 706-864-1095; Amicalola Falls State Park, Dawsonville, Ga.; 706-265-4703; www.gastateparks.org/info/amicalola; Frogtown Cellars, Dahlonega, Ga.; 706-865-0687; www.frogtownwine.com; Blackstock Vineyards and Winery, Dahlonega, Ga.; 706-219-2789; www.bsvw.com; Three Sisters Vineyards, Dahlonega, Ga.; 706-865-9463; www.threesistersvineyards.com; Wolf Mountain Vineyards, Dahlonega, Ga.; 706-867-9862; www.wolfmountainvineyards.com
TO DO: Enjoy the sheer decadence of a couple’s massage at Forrest Hills Mountain Resort. Dahlonega, Ga.; 706-864-6456; www.foresths.com TO EAT: Dominique’s Bartini; French; entrees $13-$24; Dahlonega, Ga.; 706-864-8452. A small, sophisticated martini bar, Dominique’s French cuisine stands out from the other Dahlonega eateries. TO STAY: Mountain Laurel; Creek Inn & Spa; rates begin at $145; Dahlonega, Ga.; 706-867-8134; www.mountainlaurelcreek.com. In the heart of Dahlonega’s wine country, the spa is known as one of the most romantic bed and breakfasts in the area.
ADVENTURE
Board the KangaRanger in Dahlonega for a 90-minute adventure through the “Outback.” The Kangaroo Conservation Center has the largest kangaroo population outside Australia, as well as African rodents, dik diks (tiny antelopes) and a variety of birds including the boisterous kookaburras. The Chattahoochee National Forest, at Dahlonega’s doorstep, offers horseback riding, hiking and kayaking or simply listening to rushing water and lazily buzzing insects. Kangaroo Conservation Center, Dawsonville, Ga.; 706-265-6100; www.kangaroocenter.com; Chattahoochee National Forest, Dahlonega, Ga.; 770-297-3000; www.fs.fed.us/conf
TO DO: Canoe, kayak or tube the sparkling waters of the Chestatee and Etowah rivers with Appalachian Outfitters. Dahlonega, Ga.; 800-426-7117; www.canoegeorgia.com TO EAT: The Oar House; American; entrees $11-27; Dahlonega, Ga.; 706-864-9938; www.theoarhouse.com. Rustic charm oozes from this house-turned-restaurant where two decks overlook the Chestatee River. TO STAY: Cedar House Inn & Yurts; rates begin at $105; Dahlonega, Ga.; 706-867-9446; www.georgiamountaininn.com. Disconnect and unplug in a Cedar House yurt. While the tiny bungalows are equipped with many modern conveniences, you won’t be able to check your email from here.
PECULIAR
Try to strike it rich by mining at the site of the first U.S. gold rush in 1828, 20 years before the notable California rush. At the family-owned Crisson Gold Mine, get-rich-quick hopefuls have been panning for gold since 1847. Bearded and weathered “miners” guide gold diggers into the tunnels at the Consolidated Gold Mines. One of the largest gold mining operations east of the Mississippi, the tour company takes visitors 60 feet below the earth and through a massive tunnel network. Crisson Gold Mine, Dahlonega, Ga.; 706-864-6363; www.crissongoldmine.com; Consolidated Gold Mines, Dahlonega, Ga.; 706-864-8473; www.consolidatedgoldmine.com
TO DO: The Historic Holly Theatre is a former movie house now on the National Register of Historic Places. Dahlonega, Ga.; 706-864-3759; www.hollytheater.com TO EAT: to eat: Back Porch Oyster Bar
Seafood; entrees $12-24; Dahlonega, Ga.; 706-864-8623. Dine on “every kind of seafood imaginable” in a Jimmy Buffet beach atmosphere. TO STAY: Pura Veda USA Wellness and Yoga Retreat; rates begin at $105. Dahlonega, Ga; 866-345-4900; puravidausa.com. Enjoy the outdoor Jacuzzi, nature trails and spa services.
Goshen, Indiana
ROMANTIC
Even in the Amish country of Goshen, Ind. travelers can indulge their romantic whims. The new Spring View Bed & Breakfast beckons lovers to its 48 acres that include hiking trails, garden walkways and a private pond. Charming rooms have well-swaddled pillow-top beds, whirlpool tubs and a double shower with handheld massagers—everything a couple needs to escape reality and remember why they fell in love in the first place. Downtown, century-old buildings house quaint shops that tend to favor antiques by way of merchandise. A half dozen artisan shops and galleries add verve to a yesteryear streetscape.
to do: Go treasure hunting for one-of-a-kind handcrafted artisan jewelry for your beloved at Chapters. Shipshewana, Ind.; 260-768-4229; www.ugsoftware.net/chaptersllc
TO EAT: Lucy’s Rhythm Room; Tapas jazz lounge; tapas $4-$12; Elkhart, Ind.; 574-522-9328; www.lucysrhythmroom.com. Share small plates and a space at a cozy table while the sounds of live jazz wash over you. TO STAY: Spring View Bed & Breakfast; rates begin at $59; Goshen, Ind.; 574-642-3997; www.springview.com. In-room whirlpool tubs and steam baths are ingredients for an intimate evening.
ADVENTURE
For wannabe cowboys and cattle rustlers, a taste of the Old West awaits in Amish Country’s Cook’s Bison Ranch. Take a wagon ride right into the past and pasture to see the great American Buffalo in its own natural habitat. Afterward, enjoy a chuck wagon dinner featuring juicy buffalo burgers. Cook’s Bison Ranch, Wolcottville, Ind.; 866-382-2356; www.cooksbisonranch.com
TO DO: Take an excursion through the new 51,000-square-foot American Countryside Farmers Market where 400 vendors of fresh produce, meats and crafts are housed in the largest timber and peg built structure in the country. Elkhart, Ind.; 574-296-7827; www.midwestfarmersmarket.com TO EAT: Amish Acres Home cooking; family-style service; Nappanee, Ind.; 800-800-4942; www.amishacres.com. Following a long day of hiking sit down to a Threshers dinner where plates are piled high with hearty country cooking. TO STAY: Log Cabin Hideaway; rates begin at $110; Goshen, Ind.; 574-825-4867; www.amishcountrycabin.com. The cabin rental company cheerfully promises: “Your only alarm clock will be the birds greeting each new day with a song.”
PECULIAR
Book a culinary adventure through Northern Indiana’s Amish County through the Elkhart County Convention & Visitors Bureau, and sample the hearty home cooking, heavenly baked goods and buttery cheese for which the Amish are noted. Home to one of the nation’s largest Amish communities, it provides countless opportunities to enjoy savory meals served family-style in tidy Amish homes. Enjoy combining tasty food with the chance to learn tips and techniques direct from locals with cooking demonstrations. Elkhart County Convention & Visitors Bureau, Elkhart, Ind.; 800-250-4827, www.amishcountry.org
TO DO: The Old Bag Factory features over 20 shops that carry one-of-a-kind goods made by local artisans in a renovated factory setting. Goshen, Ind.; 574-534-2502; www.oldbagfactory.com TO EAT: The Blue Gate Restaurant and Theater; Mennonite; entrees $5-16; Shipshewana, Ind.; 888-447-4725; www.riegsecker.com . Following a traditional Amish meal, walk over to the theater for live music or comedy performances. TO STAY: Big House in the Little Woods; rates begin at $70; Millersburg, Ind.; 260-593-9076; www.bighouselittlewoods.com. Stay here in the winter when the hosts at this bed and breakfast provide sleigh rides.
Orlando, Florida
ROMANTIC
The last word in romance is the first name in luxury: The Peabody Orlando. Cuddle up in a sumptuous suite and enjoy the views from the upper floors. With a little notice, the staff can arrange for a welcome bottle of champagne and chocolate strawberries. While you’re there, book a lovers-only hot air balloon ride at sunrise and glide over the city with the sun warming your faces and the gentle breeze ruffling your hair. Magic Sunrise Ballooning, Orlando, Fla.; 866-606-7433; www.magicsunriseballooning.com
TO DO: Stretch out on a deep-cushioned chaise lounge in your poolside cabana at The Peabody and close the canopy for added privacy. Orlando, Fla.; 800-732-2639; www.peabodyorlando.com TO EAT: Luma on Park; Innovative; entrees $17-$32; Winter Park, Fla.; 407-599-4111; www.lumaonpark.com. Lavish yourself with intricately prepared dishes created to tempt and tease the palate. TO STAY: Chalet Suzanne Country Inn; rates begin at $169; Lake Wales, Fla.; 800-433-6011; www.chaletsuzanne.com. Plush beds and award-winning cuisine make it easy to fall in love at Chalet Suzanne.
ADVENTURE
Thrill seekers can take a skydiving jaunt with SkyVenture’s exhilarating indoor experience through a super-charged wind tunnel, one of only five in the country. Visit Wallaby Ranch for a tandem hang glide. Towed to a height of 2,000 feet by a specially designed ultra-light tow plane, gliders are treated to an eyeful of unspoiled landscape as they drift back down to solid ground. SkyVenture Orlando, Orlando, Fla.; 800-SKY-FUN-1; www.skyventureorlando.com; Wallaby Ranch, Orlando, Fla.; 800-925-5229; www.wallaby.com
TO DO: Swim or skim the water’s surface on skis, kneeboards or other watercraft at the Orlando Watersports Complex, the only facility in the country to have two cableways for unlimited riding time. Orlando, Fla.; 407-251-3100; www.orlandowatersports.com TO EAT: Manuel’s on the 28th; World cuisine; entrees $29-45; Orlando, Fla.; 407-246-6580; www.manuelsonthe28th.com. From France to Japan, feel like a world traveler with Manuel’s eclectic upscale menu. TO STAY: Disney’s Fort Wilderness Resort & Campground; rates begin at $58; Lake Buena Vista, Fla., 407-934-7639; www.disneyworld.disney.go.com. Dreaming of s’mores by an open fire? Take the family camping.
PECULIAR
The Orlando area is home to abundant land-based wildlife: from wild turkeys to bobcats. Take an eco-tour down a natural canal with Boggy Creek Airboat Rides to see Florida’s native wildlife. Explore the Sunshine State’s “frontier” with a safari tour—on horseback or in an open-air coach—with Florida Eco-Safaris at Forever Florida, a complex that encompasses the Crescent J Ranch, 4,700 acres of pristine wilderness and a working cattle ranch. Boggy Creek Airboat Rides, Orlando, Fla.; 407-344-9550; www.bcairboats.com; Forever Florida, 888-957-9794; www.floridaecosafaris.com
TO DO: Be a detective at Sleuths Mystery Dinner Shows and try to guess whodunit. Orlando, Fla.,
800-393-1985; www.sleuths.com TO EAT: Taverna Opa; Greek; entrees $8-$19; Orlando, Fla.; 407-879-2481; www.tavernaoparestaurant.com. Break plates and toss napkins in the air in the true spirit of Greek culture. TO STAY: Perri House Bed & Breakfast Inn; rates begin at $99; Orlando, Fla., 407-876-4830; www.PerriHouse.com. Take your binoculars because Perri House boasts two acres of “voluntary” bird sanctuary.
BY AIR
Live music. A starry night. An ancient Italian town. If that’s not the stuff of dreams, what is? Maybe it’s driving cattle across Argentina’s pampas. Or picnicking in the grand ruins of the storied Alhambra Palace? These life-changing scenarios await you at the end of a flight across the water. The citizens of Cortona, Buenos Aires and Granada look forward to your imminent arrival.
By Soyia Ellison
Buenos Aires, Argentina
ROMANTIC
If an episode of “Dancing with the Stars” prompts fantasies of twirling across a dance floor, head to Buenos Aires, Argentina, birthplace of the tango. Check into the gilded Alvear Palace Hotel in the exclusive Recoleta district. While a personal butler unpacks guests’ bags and presses their clothes, they can slink over to the attached Galeria Promenade Alvear. There lives Beleidades, where shoppers can choose a one-of-a-kind sexy design that the butler need never see. But before slipping into the new lingerie, visitors are urged to slip on their dancing shoes. Buenos Aires is awash in tango schools and either the hotel concierge or Abc Tango Tours can assist with locating one nearby. Alvear Palace Hotel, Buenos Aires, Argentina; 011-54-11-4808-2100; www.alvearpalace.com; Buenos Aires, Argentina; 011-54-11-4800-1275; www.beleidades.com; Abc Tango Tours, Buenos Aires, Argentina; www.abctango.com
TO DO: Feed the koi in the Jardin Japones, or Japanese Gardens, an oasis of serenity in the middle of bustling Palermo. Buenos Aires, Argentina; 011-54-11-4804-4922; www.jardinjapones.com TO EAT: Casa Cruz International; entrees $9-$15 Buenos Aires, Argentina; 011-54-11-4833-1112; www.casa-cruz.com
Chic, dark and filled with fresh flowers, get good directions because this restaurant is too hip for signage. TO STAY: Art Hotel; rates begin at $65; Buenos Aires, Argentina; 011-54-11- 4821-4744; www.arthotel.com.ar. Featuring art exhibition space on the ground floor and 36 individually decorated rooms.
ADVENTURE
Perhaps the only thing that sounds cooler than being a cowboy is being a gaucho, and at Estancia El Ombu de Areco, roughly 40 miles outside of Buenos Aires, travelers can be one for a day. Tend to the Hereford and Aberdeen Angus cattle, and milk, drive, brand or vaccinate the herd. Or simply go for a horseback ride, lounge by the swimming pool or play a game of billiards in the common room. Either way an appetite is sure to be worked up in time for the asado, or Argentine barbecue. El Ombu de Areco, outside Buenos Aires, Argentina; www.estanciaelombu.com
TO DO: Adventure of another sort can be found in the “popular” section of a Boca Juniors game. For just a few dollars you can stand alongside the rowdiest of soccer fans. Buenos Aires, Argentina; www.bocajuniors.com.ar. TO EAT: De Olivas i Lustres; Mediterranean; entrees $5-$10; Buenos Aires, Argentina; 011-54-11-4867-3388; www.deolivasilustres.com.ar. Order the 13-course tasting menu, which includes Incan delicacies such as llama, nandu (sort of like an ostrich) and yacare (a small river alligator).
to stay: Lina’s Tango Guesthouse; rates begin at $25; Buenos Aires, Argentina; 011-54-11-4361-6817; www.tangoguesthouse.com.ar. A tiny, no-frills home run by a woman who has devoted her life to tango.
PECULIAR
Recoleta Cemetery is a spot like few others, a four-block “city” of elaborate mausoleums complete with an entire population of feral cats. Here lies the grave of Rufina Cambaceres, the 19-year-old daughter of a writer who was accidentally buried alive after slipping into a coma, and most importantly, the final resting place of Argentina’s most famous resident, Eva Peron. Pick up a map and meander through at your own pace, or hire a guide for a more structured experience. Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Argentina; 011-54-11-4804-7040
TO DO: Museo de Los Ninos is a different sort of children’s museum, designed to help little ones develop their career dreams. They can play doctor or dentist, try their hand at journalism, or work in a McDonald’s. Buenos Aires, Argentina; 011-54-4861-2325; www.museocr.com TO EAT: Te Matare Ramirez International; entrees $6-$12; Buenos Aires, Argentina; 011-54-11-4831-9156; www.tematareramirez.com. A restaurant devoted to eroticism, dinner may include naughty puppet shows and feature entrees with names like “Inhabited by Indecent Thoughts” and “Spell of Caresses.” TO STAY: The Faena Hotel and Universe; rates begin at $330; Buenos Aires, Argentina; 011-54-11-4010-9000; www.faenahotelanduniverse.com. Phillippe Starck’s oddly gorgeous red-and-white resort sits in newly fashionable Puerto Madero.
Granada, Spain
ROMANTIC
Before author Washington Irving conjured his Headless Horseman nightmare, he spent several months living on the grounds of the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain. The place so moved him that he wrote “Tales of the Alhambra,” stories of dashing princes and chaste damsels who once lived inside its walls. Now travelers can return to the place of Irving’s happier dreams, staying in the Parador de Granada, a Franciscan convent that oozes antique charm and possesses a storybook courtyard. (Book early since it fills months ahead.) Alhambra Palace, Granada; www.alhambratickets.com; Parador de Granada, Granada, Spain; 011-34-958-22-1440; www.parador.es (then search for Granada)
TO DO: Soak at Banos Arabes in re-created baths reminiscent of Moorish days and finish with a massage. Granada, Spain; 011-34-958-229-978; www.hammamspain.com/granada/ TO EAT: Carmen de San Miguel; Spanish; entrees $20-$25; Granada, Spain; 011-34-958-226-723. Order a bottle of Rioja and enjoy the spectacular views of the city. TO STAY: Carmen de la Alcubilla del Caracol; rates begin at $130; Granada, Spain; 011-34-958-215-551; www.alcubilladelcaracol.com. Every room has a view in this charming inn at the edge of the Jewish district.
ADVENTURE
Soaring above the Earth need not be confined to the world of sleep if you possess a paraglider. Less than an hour from Granada rises the grand Sierra Nevada mountain range, whose peaks remained snowcapped much of the year. Guides at the El Dornajo information center in the Sierra Nevada National Park can schedule a breathtaking outing in one of these sky vessels. If your dreams rest a little lower to the ground, the Park also presents excellent opportunities for hiking, bird watching, horseback riding or rock climbing. El Dornajo information center, Sierra Nevada National Park, Granada, Spain; 011-34-958-340-625
TO DO: Olé! Bullfighting season runs through October; check the local schedule and buy tickets for a fight at the Plaza de Toros de Granada. Granada, Spain; 011-34-958-271-950 TO EAT: Ruta del Veleta; Andalucian; entrees $20-$25; Outside Granada, Spain; 011-34-958-486-134; www.rutadelveleta.com. For the adventurous eater, the wild boar or ostrich Carpaccio is sure to delight. TO STAY: La Almunia del Valle; rates begin at $130; Outside Granada, Spain; 011-34-958-308-010; www.laalmuniadelvalle.com. Just inside the Sierra Nevada National Park, this 10-room spot has an abundant olive grove.
PECULIAR
Steal away to one of the caves of the Sacromonte where gypsies dance the Flamenco. Legend says they were once the hideouts of early Christians. If you have the right look, you might be pulled onto the tiny dance floor for a lesson with one of its swishy-skirted ladies. If you venture on your own, consider the oh-so-typical Los Tarantos. Los Tarantos, Granada, Spain; 011-34-958-224-525; www.cuevaslostarantos.com
TO DO: In the Capilla Real, pay your respects to the couple responsible for finding your home. The Gothic chapel contains an underground crypt holding the coffins of Ferdinand and Isabella, the king and queen who financed Columbus’s voyage. Granada, Spain; 011-34-958-229-239; www.capillarealgranada.com TO EAT: Meknes Rahma; Moroccan; entrees $6.50-$12; Granada, Spain; 011-34-958-227-430. Inspired by its neighbor to the South, the entrees come with a side of belly dancing. TO STAY: Palacio de Santa Ines; rates begin at $90; Granada, Spain, 011-34-958-222-362; www.palaciosantaines.com. This 16th-century palace in the twisting Albaicin district houses paintings by one of Raphael’s disciples.
Cortona, Italy
ROMANTIC
The Etruscan hill town of Cortona, Italy might have stepped out of a fairy tale; just ask Frances Mayes, subject of the bestselling book, “Under the Tuscan Sun,” who gave up her American life after falling under its spell. The villa of your imagination—with none of the upkeep—lies a short drive from Cortona. Villa di Piazzono rises at the end of a long, cypress-lined driveway and feels a world away from everywhere. From the room, guests can stare out at the formal Italian garden to the vineyards beyond. Venture into town after climbing its steep, narrow streets—duck into a grocery or pizzeria for a bite and a beer to go. Dine on the brick wall overlooking Cortona’s main square, complete with burbling fountain and clock tower. Villa di Piazzano, Cortona, Italy; 011-39-075-826-226, www.villadipiazzano.com; Cortona info: www.cortonaweb.com
TO DO: Discover the sensuality of cooking during a pasta-making course. In July, drive a couple of hours to La Cucina Caldesi, a London-based cooking school in Torrita di Siena that offers courses. Outside Cortona, Italy; 011-44-020-7935-1144; www.caffecal-desi.com TO EAT: Ristorante Tonino; Italian; entrees $15-$25; Cortona, Italy; 011-39-0575-630-500. Panoramic views and a beautiful, walled terrace set a romantic scene. TO STAY: Hotel Corys; rates begin at $80; Cortona, Italy; 011-39-0575-605143; www.corys.it. Here, you can rub the sleep from your eyes while breakfasting on a flowered veranda.
ADVENTURE
Just how brave are you? Test your mettle at Marmore Falls, a couple of hours from Cortona. These three falls, which drop a total of 540 feet to the Nera River, were created by the Romans in 271 A.D. and are the highest in Europe. You can hike along them, choose an easy or intense rafting trip, or try canyoning, in which you let yourself down by ropes into crevices in the rock surface, slide farther on toboggans and finally dive into underground pools. Marmore Falls Park; www.cascatamarmore.it; Rafting and Canyoning, Cortona, Italy; www.raftingmarmore.com
TO DO: Book a hunting trip through Il Falconiere. Depending on the season, you might find yourself out tracking pheasant, partridge or wild boar. Outside Cortona, Italy; 011-39-0575-612-679; www.ilfalconiere.com TO EAT: Trattoria Dardano; Tuscan; $17 prix fixe menu; Cortona, Italy; 011-39-0575-601-944; www.trattoriadardano.com. This gem specializes in casalinga, or home cooking, fresh from the family farm. TO STAY: Il Falconiere; rates begin at $350; Outside Cortona, Italy; 011-39-0575-612-679; www.ilfalconiere.com. A luxurious estate, from the 17th century, offering various sporting packages for the outdoor type.
PECULIAR
How many people get the opportunity to listen to a classical concert under the Tuscan stars with Sophia Loren? The relatively young Tuscan Sun Festival brings together some of the world’s best classical musicians, along with visual artists and authors, for 13 days of performances and discussions in the city of Cortona. This year Loren opens the festival, which kicks off with a tribute concert to her late husband, Carlo Ponti. The festival begins Aug. 4 and runs through Aug. 16. Tuscan Sun Festival, Cortona, Italy; www.festivaldelsole.com
TO DO: Book a vintage Italian car—say, a Ferrari or an Alfa Romeo—for your trip into the Italian countryside. www.weddingsitaly.com/car-rental-italy TO EAT: Trattoria La Grotto; Tuscan; entrees $7 to $21; Cortona, Italy; 011-39-0575-630-271. Dine inside one of a series of medieval-style brick and stone rooms, known as “the grotto.” TO STAY: Borgo il Melone; rates begin at $160; outside Cortona, Italy; 011-39-0575-603-330; www.ilmelone.it. A stone farmhouse that lets you choose between the original manor and re-created outbuildings-turned-apartments.
(May 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Monday, December 22nd, 2008
Travel by a Different Drummer
By Matt Kull / Photography by Sunny Reynolds
Guatemala—with its rich Maya culture and colonial heritage, its volcanic landscapes, pristine lakes, and villages that are much as they’ve been for a thousand years—is a country my peripatetic self had longed to explore. Yet this terrain is not exactly a well-known tourist destination and few would feel confident arranging an excursion. But then someone sent me to Sunny Reynolds in Warrenton.
Reynolds is a well-known photographer in and around Fauquier County, but few are familiar with the exotic excursions she develops and leads around the globe. Biotrek Adventure Travels has been in operation for 15 years, with Reynolds leading trips to Tanzania, Costa Rica, Chile, India, Peru, Morocco, Guatemala and more recently, to the Galapagos. This is the story of our recent jaunt to the color-saturated, naturally beautiful lands and people that comprise the gem called Guatemala.
Antigua: A Spanish Colonial Monument
We are in Antigua, Guatemala’s old capital nestled at the foot of three volcanoes. Our group of eight settles in at the leafy and immaculate Casa Encantada Hotel and then takes to the cobblestone streets. We pass beautiful colonial churches, monasteries, and government buildings dating back to the 16th century. “Walking is the only way to see Antigua,” says Reynolds. “Besides, we have a date.”
Our “date” is at Casa de Artes, fine art gallery featuring Guatemalan textiles, ceremonial masks, carvings and jewelry. The owners are experts in Maya culture who love sharing their knowledge. They answer our questions about traditional weaving, masks, customs and history, including the melding of pre-Columbian and post-conquest religion in the Maya dances. We watch a slide show and lecture about the masks, which depict conquistadors, Moors, jaguars, monkeys and other characters that have evolved in the dances over the centuries. As a special treat, dancers in full traditional dress have been arranged to perform the Deer and Bull dances for us in a flower-splashed Spanish courtyard.
Afterwards, we relax in Plaza de Armas, Antigua’s central square and social center. Time takes on a different dimension here. Shopkeepers sweep narrow sidewalks outside cafes. European and American language students pass the time conversing on park benches. Children play around the central fountain, with its four mermaids.
Comalapa Market
A few blocks away we take in the sight of the pale yellow and white Merced Church, one of the loveliest confections of the town’s colonial period. In its front plaza Maya women sell bright, hand-woven textiles, their children with them. Another short walk and we’re at the Municipal Mercado and Artisan Market, where fine-quality cloth in Joseph-coat colors is available. Whether made into placemats, tablecloths, or clothing, the sturdy cloth can be purchased for far less than the same quality textiles in the U.S.
Reynolds tells us that Guatemalan jade, available in 20-some natural colors at the fine local jewelry stores, makes Antigua a shopper’s paradise. Reynolds knows this place inside out. She’s making sure we have everything we need, and more, including where to get the best quality and the best deals.
That evening the group meets at one of her favorite restaurants, Las Palmas Cuban Restaurant. We feast on lemon-garlic chicken, lime tilapia, and the grilled meat, bean and vegetable combo known as Plato Tipico. Over dinner we learn more about each other. There are nine of us, couples and singles; an eclectic group of worldly travelers. We are appreciative of Reynolds’ looser-than-normal travel agenda, which allows as much straying off and reconvening as one finds comfortable. Everything has been organized around comfort, taste and safety; and as are the best laid plans, they’re almost invisible. No pressure. No worries. “You won’t find this with other travel companies, Reynolds says.” I think she’s right. And for a number of us, the arrangement has added appeal: As Reynolds is a professional photographer, her candid expertise means that going home with excellent photographs—our own—is almost a given.
On The Road
The next morning we head to Guatemala’s breathtakingly beautiful Highlands. The land is so steep here that many of the patchwork fields, hemmed by jungle, appear to be almost vertical. On the hillsides, men are working with machetes and hoes, hacking in the terraced fields where corn, beans, bananas, and coffee grow. Barefoot women and children walk along the roadsides balancing baskets of laundry and firewood on their heads. Occasionally, we pass a chicken bus, one of the old junkers that serve as transportation for the locals. We spot scattered clusters of cinder-block and wooden houses, horses and cows grazing outside; and periodic roadside stands selling Coca-Cola and chips and fruit.
San Juan Comalapa and Santiago de Atitlan
In the village of San Juan Comalapa, the aroma of grilled meat and corn-on-the-cob fills the bustling market square. Indigenous Kaqchike venders offer textiles, CDs, tennis shoes, children’s toys, clothes, bibles, rosaries—you name it. Someone’s preaching on the corner. Music’s playing. Mounds of avocados, papayas, blackberries, and medicinal herbs are laid out for sale.
Compala’s famous for its primitivist painters. We visit artists in their studios and marvel at a wondrous larger-than-life mural painted on an eight-foot-high cement wall that runs the length of the cemetery and beyond. The mural depicts Guatemala’s history from the early Indians to the present.
In Santiago de Atitlan, La Señora Delores, our guide who speaks fluent English, Spanish, and K’iche, escorts us down a maze of alleyways and past a female shaman chanting over a fire.
We enter a one-room home where the town’s Maximon is residing for the year. The family who owns the house will care for him and keep their doors open for worshipers until he’s passed on to the next family. As guest of honor, Maximon sits in the middle of the dimly lit space, a carved man dressed in a suit and hat, surrounded by a blaze of candles and people praying. An idol worshipped by the Maya for centuries, Maximon’s in charge of bringing good luck, good harvest and success. Petitioners keep a lighted cigarette in his mouth and offer frequent alcoholic refreshment. Our group gathers in a solemn circle as another shaman chants and the people worship much as they have for centuries.
From there Señora Delores takes us to her parents’ cheerful house. She enters, singing a greeting in K’iche. The elderly Maya couple welcome us into an open-roofed atrium with a small tree in the middle. Delores and her mother are known internationally for their weaving, and we’re treated to a demonstration of the traditional and ancient method they use. Delores’s mother hooks one end of her back-strap loom to the tree and the other end around her waist. Kneeling on the ground she controls the tension of the weave by shifting her weight against the strap. Guatemalan women learn to weave as soon as they can count, we learn, and the patterns are created as they go or memorized rather than written down. But since weaving is so time-consuming, the artistry Delores and her mother show us is starting to die out as women take more profitable jobs.
Lake Atitlan
It’s our fourth day out of nine when we arrive at the peaceful Villa Sumaya, tucked along Lake Atitlan’s shore. Lake Atitlan covers 50 square-miles, is over 1000 feet deep, and rests in a valley rimmed by steep-sloped volcanoes and mountains.
We spend three days here; hiking, reading, and doing yoga in Sumaya’s studio overlooking the lake. Sumaya’s chef, Domingo, treats us to black bass, fresh from the lake; and breakfasts of fresh fruit, omelets, and hash browns. Energy restored, we’re ready for the rest of the trip.
Kites Fly on the Day of the Dead
On the Day of the Dead, Guatemalan families gather to decorate the graves of family members and picnic in the cemeteries. Strange to think of having a party on a grave, but the dead are believed to return on this day and Guatemalans greet them with flowers, special food and all kinds of merriment. And kites! Today we’re at the festival of kites in Sacatepequez!
These kites are gloriously festive; hand-made from found objects and tissue paper molds. They range from ten to fifteen feet across. And there are monster kites too—so large no one even thinks of flying them. We wander and mingle, watching the smaller kites soar gaily across the sky. The mega-kite fliers seem to be waiting patiently for the right wind. Then a funny thing happens. A strong breeze blows flower petals throughout the graveyard. The crowd goes silent. Groups start to release their kites.
Kite Festival
Moving like heavy trucks, the giant kites rise slowly; up, up, up! The crowd is shouting: “Ariba! Ariba!”
Tikal: Where the Ruins Are
Tikal is the largest of the Maya ruins. In the Great Plaza, Tikal’s center, the Temple of the Great Jaguar and the Temple of the Masks face each other as they have for 1200 years. We climb Pyramid IV, the tallest of all, and from our vantage point on its comb, we see the combs of the other large pyramids, riding like white schooners on an ocean of jungle canopy.
Just before sunset, we scale the Lost World Temple. We hear Howler monkeys throughout the jungle—not the first time on this trip. Toucans and scarlet macaws swoop and squawk. Spider monkeys play follow-the-leader as the blue-purple skies begin to go dusk. In the Maya cosmos, humans stand between nine gods of the underworld and the gods of the heavens. Standing on the flat of this temple, consciousness bends and bows toward the mystical.
The Last Day
Back in Antigua I decide to scale Vulcan de Fuego, the Volcano of Fire. Reynolds lines me up with a guide and by 6 a.m. we’re hiking from the trailhead through thick trees. We gain elevation quickly, abruptly cutting through a boulder field. Then we edge up a slight incline and summit a knoll, and there it is! A piercing panoramic view—Vulcan de Fuego, belching lava and steam. To the southeast lies El Salvador and Honduras, and due east, the Pacific Ocean. As the sun rises, casting yellow-orange rays, we enjoy the view. My guide rolls out breakfast: Guatemalan coffee, gourmet cheese, crackers, fresh juice, and spicy Guatemalan ham.
(March 2007)