Posts Tagged ‘wine’
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
Seeking out Spanish Hot Spots
By Warren Rojas
No need to check the mercury. Spain is officially “hot.”
According to Paul Yohai, the entire country is undergoing “a wine revolution” that has united modern techniques, age-old vines and visionary winemakers who are unafraid to challenge tradition.
“If you want to taste the exhilarating spirit of the ‘new’ Spanish wines, head to Toro,” advises Yohai, listing the budding northwestern region as a go-to spot for modern tempranillo. He hails the Equren family’s efforts, singling out their 2004 Numanthia ($55) as the perfect ambassador of Toro’s developing greatness.
“This is the future of the new Spanish wine industry in your glass,” he argues, highlighting its “soaring aromatics, intense, concentrated blackberry and blueberry fruit, spicy minerals, full body and a rich, smoky, everlasting finish.”
Should the 2004 be unavailable at your local wine shop, Yohai says the 2005 should be equally pleasing.
For bargain hunters, Yohai recommends the 2004 T Toro ($9), a high-tannin tempranillo packed with “blackberry and plum fruit” and “soft spice, which ends in a long finish.”
Kathy Morgan, on the other hand, has her sights set on the full-bodied whites trickling out from the Rias Baixas region. Morgan enjoys the “vibrant and perfumed” 2006 Adegas Morgadio Albariño ($20), a classic white punctuated by flashes of “white peaches … flowers, basil and a hint of cinnamon.”
If your tastes run to somewhat smoother pours, Morgan suggests spending some time with the 2005 Lagar de Cevara Albariño ($21). “This is the richer, creamier side of albariño,” she counsels, heralding the “mouth-filling” texture and “explosive fruit flavors.”
In the wake of the tapas storm that has overtaken so many restaurants, Suzanne McGrath has been left wondering why the small plate’s indigenous partner—sherry—failed to ride the same wave. She posits that the sheer variety of the fortified wine (McGrath counts 11 different sherry styles) may have something to do with it.
“This means that if you’ve tried ‘it’ once, there’s still a wide variety of wines that you haven’t experienced,” McGrath says, adding that “Sherry is bound to offer something for virtually anyone.”
But the biggest problem appears to be counterfeit wines.
“Did you know that for every five bottles of ‘sherry’ sold in the U.S., only one is an authentic wine from the Sherry region of Spain?” McGrath explains. “All of the others are but cheap, poorly-made pretenders, undoubtedly blinding the American consumer to the subtle charms of this most ancient of Spanish wines.”
For an authentic experience, McGrath likes the Lustau “Los Arcos” Amontillado ($16), a drier-style wine “with enticing aromas of caramel and orange peel.” If sweet is more your speed, McGrath is sure you’ll be smitten with the Dios Baco Oloroso ($22), a richer dessert wine showing “flavors of dried fruit, honey and walnut.”
“One tip: Sherry shines with food, so sample it with a suitable partner,” McGrath notes, listing Spanish staples like ham, olives and salted nuts as welcome additions.
(November 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
Designer Wines from All Over
By Warren Rojas
Boutique wineries, by design, are all about quality over quantity.
Smaller operations are more personally invested in each pressing, which translates into carefully crafted wines that are often as expressive—and sometimes even more impressive—than their mass- produced counterparts.
Paul Yohai touts Washington’s Whitman Cellars as one such stunner, praising the environmentally conscious wine producer for their commitment to low-impact farming techniques and biodynamic cultivation practices. That rapt attention comes through in their 2004 Walla Walla Valley Syrah ($30), which Yohai says delivers “big, ripe, intense layers of blackberry, cherry, pepper and meaty tones.” Further south, Yohai hails Napa Valley vintner Rudy von Strasser as someone who believes “great wine is made in the vineyard and not the winery.” Yohai has taken a shine to von Strasser’s 2004 Sori Bricco Vineyard Cabernet ($50), cheering the French oak-aged cabernet-merlot-cabernet franc blend for being “extremely dark and extracted with tremendous depth and concentration.”
Abroad, Yohai admires Danielle and Richard Dubois of Chateau Bertinat Lartique, family winemakers dedicated to returning their 100-year-old Grand Cru St Emilion vineyard to glory. According to Yohai, all of their terroir-driven wines are produced in a garage, including their 2002 Arthus ($17), a value wine from the up-and-coming Côtes de Castillon region.
Kathy Morgan appreciates the loving care provided by boutique vendors, particularly when it comes to champagne. “No one exemplifies the boutique spirit better than the growers who bottle wine made exclusively from their own small plots of land,” she estimates, trumpeting the NV Philippe Gonet & Fils Brut Rosé ($36) for its “mouthwatering flavors of wild raspberries and strawberries.”
Morgan is also fond of the 2003 Montirius Vacqueyras Clos Montirius ($27), congratulating winemakers Eric and Christine Saurel for creating a “lavender scented” grenache-syrah blend absolutely “brimming with flavors of boysenberry and spice.” For a knock-your-socks-off white, Morgan recommends a bottle of 2006 Heidi Schrock Weissburgunder ($24), a pinot blanc that is “plum and refreshing at the same time, with flavors of fresh apple, tangerine zest and chalk dust.”
Down under, Suzanne McGrath sees lots to love from the Barossa Valley’s Two Hands Wines. She points to the 2005 Two Hands “Bella’s Garden” Shiraz ($66) as a “perennial favorite, with inky, opaque purple color and deep, blackberry-like fruit.”
Bouncing over to Bourdeaux, McGrath encourages everyone to keep an eye out for jaw-dropping Merlot blends like the 2003/2004 Chateau La Vieille Cure ($33)—a bargain beauty she claims “shows the ripe, plummy fruit of Merlot with notes of tobacco and earth that only come from Bordeaux.”
Stateside, McGrath is a big fan of Sonoma’s Chasseur Wines, which she says “makes consistently full-flavored, well-balanced wines year after year.” One favorite is their 2005 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay Sonoma Coast ($37), which she says “balances ripe, lemon-drop fruit with a judicious note of oak.”
Meanwhile, McGrath notes that Chasseur has begun reaching out to bargain shoppers as well. “The same winery also makes chardonnay, pinot noir, and now syrah under the more affordable Lily label ($26),” she states. “Everyone’s a winner.”
(October 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
Wine Bars Make Globe-Trotting a Breeze
By Warren Rojas
Photography by Warren Rojas
The more you delve into wine, the quicker you realize how much more there is to know.
Grapes. Vintages. Terroir. The most minor variation makes a world of difference to the wine, producing infinitesimally different results the world over. Which is why it’s often difficult to get a firm grasp on any single varietal, much less the panoply of bottles that line the racks at your favorite grocery/restaurant/package store.
Thank god for wine bars—tasting emporiums dedicated to making wine exploration more accessible.
One inside-the-Beltway favorite is the Idylwood Grill and Wine Bar (2190 Pimmit Drive, Falls Church; 703-992-0915; www.idylwoodgrill.com), a low-stress refuge stocked with budget-friendly finds. Owner Hedi Ben-Abdallah worked in wine for over two decades before opening his now 2-year-old establishment, a cozy spot featuring tables for dining and an adjoining bar/lounge area outfitted with comfy couches, coffee tables and stools for relaxing.
“I try to make it fun for my customers because it’s still fun for me,” Ben-Abdallah says of his business philosophy.
Idylwood offers around 40 wines by the glass—most under $7, all under $10. The full wine list includes three dozen whites and nearly five dozen reds, none of which breaks the $60 mark. While pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon remain the most prominent reds, the budding tempranillo and malbec sections show promise. Likewise, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc dominate the whites, but catchall categories often feature gems from Argentina, Italy—like the 2005 Terrazzo Esino Bianco ($5.95-glass, $19.50-bottle), a vibrant verdicchio-trebbiano blend—and abroad.
Additionally, Ben-Abdallah offers a 25 percent discount on all retail purchases (available to dining patrons or walk-in customers).
For his money, Paul Yohai says it’s tough to beat Dino in Cleveland Park (3435 Connecticut Ave., N.W., Washington, D.C.; 202-686-2966; www.dino-dc.com). According to Yohai, Dino owner Dean Gold keeps things interesting by hand-picking his wines based on personal preferences, rather than trends or industry rankings.
“This is a great place to try an Italian wine you have never heard of, as Dean has impeccable taste,” Yohai says, noting that Gold typically offers around 20 wines by the “ombra” (3-ounce taste) or the “quartin” (8-ounce carafe). Choice Dino pours include the 2006 Grotte del Sole Falanghina from Campania ($4–3 ounces), Ronco del Gnemiz Tocai Friulano from the Colli Orientali ($5–3 ounces), 2000 Ada Nada “Valeirano” Barbaresco ($7–3 ounces) and 2000 Livio Sassetti Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino ($7–3 ounces).
“He [Gold] prices bottles at $10-$15 above retail, so you can afford to drink the really good stuff,” Yohai argues, adding that weekly wine specials like the Wednesday night wine flight and antipasto pairing ($25) makes enjoying Dino’s bountiful wine selection and creative cooking that much more accessible.
Meanwhile, Kathy Morgan’s preferred perch—Circa in Dupont Circle (1601 Connecticut Ave., N.W., Washington, D.C.; 202-667-1601; www.circacafes.com)—is just a few Metro stops away.
A spin-off of the Charlottesville-based Greenberry’s Coffee & Tea Company, Circa provides all the familiar breakfast beverages urbanites need to get through the day along with a full bar and wine program for those in search of nocturnal refreshment. According to Morgan, the in-house wine dispenser system regularly features Austrian gruner veltliner, Spanish garnacha, New Zealand pinot noir, German riesling and other global favorites. She also loves all the added bonuses Circa provides.
“Free Wi-Fi, outdoor seating and good, simple food are great perks to be enjoyed alongside the extensive, well-priced and impeccably stored international wine collection,” Morgan asserts.
(September 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
Great Grapes from Across Our Fruited Plain
By Warren Rojas
K Vineyards Syrah 2005 ($30); Dr. Konstantin Frankdry riesling 2006 ($20); Sobon Estate Zinfandel Old Vines 2005 ($15).
For many foreigners, the phrase “American wine” still conjures a single image: California.
While the monumental “Judgment of Paris” helped thrust West Coast vintners onto the global stage just over 30 years ago, domestic wineries have since cropped up in just about every state. Granted, California continues to produce its share of award-winning wines, but several other localities are thriving in their own right.
In the greater Northwest, Suzanne McGrath likes the “intense, yet elegant” flavor of the 2005 Domaine Drouhin Chardonnay Arthur ($35), a full-flavored white brought to bear by fourth-generation winemaker, Veronique Drouhin.
Closer to home, McGrath prescribes New York’s 2006 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling ($20) as a panacea for heat-ravaged locals staying in town. “This is textbook riesling—with plenty of citrus, lime and stone fruit flavors and a jazzy, refreshing texture—that helps beat D.C.’s summer heat,” she counsels.
Kathy Morgan likes the good doctor, too. But she says she prefers to cool off with the 2006 Dr. Konstantin Frank Rkatsiteli ($27), “a naturally spicy white grape, with bright tropical and wild strawberry flavors”—particularly since the prodigious varietal remains a virtual secret outside its native home within the former Soviet Union.
“Dr. Frank’s descendants may be tending the only rkatsiteli plantings in this part of the world,” she notes.
Looking west, Morgan remains enthralled with Oregon’s “supple, balanced pinots.” For her money, you can’t go wrong with the 2005 Bethel Heights Estate Grown Pinot Noir ($30), “a seductively silky wine, with black cherry and raspberry flavors and a hint of spice.”
Likewise, Morgan lists Washington as a “very exciting growing area” for syrah, pointing to the 2005 K Syrah Milbrandt-Wahluke Slope ($30) as a prime example of American ingenuity. She credits the Columbia Valley’s cool, dry climate with helping to foster K’s cornucopia of “juicy berry flavors, smoke, cured olives and black pepper.”
Paul Yohai is equally enthused about Washington’s burgeoning syrah holdings, though he prefers the “luxuriously textured” tastes of the 2003 Apex Syrah ($26). “Seeing plenty of toasty French oak balanced with loads of ripe, spicy blackberry and cassis fruit flavors, this elegant and complex wine is the perfect match for grilled lamb, pork or steak,” he maintains.
For a shot of local flavor, Yohai recommends putting yourself in the capable hands of pioneering Virginia winemaker, Dennis Horton. Yohai touts the 2006 Horton Tower Series Viognier ($13) as proof Virginia wines deserve broader attention, heralding the “rich exotic honeysuckle and orange spice bouquet this grape is famous for” and the “rich, dry finish” as a welcome accompaniment to any seafood meal.
Of course, if you are not quite ready to break with tradition, our wine pros claim there is plenty to love from our friends in sunny central California.
Yohai urges everyone to embrace the all-American zinfandel, citing the organically farmed 2005 Sobon Estate Zinfandel Old Vines ($15) as a personal favorite brimming with “brambly blackberry and black cherry fruit” and “nuanced cedar and vanilla notes.”
Meanwhile, McGrath sees a bright future for Paso Robles winemaker James Judd, trumpeting the “suave, silky textures” and “surprising depth and concentration” of the 2004 James Judd Malbec-Petite Verdot ($29) as strong indicators of this boutique winery’s rising cachet.
“While the malbec and petite verdot was originally grown to sell off to neighboring winemakers to blend into cabernet, James decided that it was good enough to bottle on his own—and was he right,” McGrath duly surmises.
(August 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
Innovative Enoteca Invites Exploration
By Warren Rojas
Photography by Warren Rojas
Although our area presents plenty of opportunities to sup choice wines during after-work hours, at dinner or even alongside foreign dignitaries at embassy functions, most wine stewards would gasp at the thought of cracking open an auction-worthy Bordeaux without running a full credit check.
For Whole Foods wine team leader Walter Martley, it’s a part of everyday life.
Martley oversees the new Fair Lakes Enoteca, a state-of-the-art wine tasting facility boasting 80 bottles available for sampling in 1-, 3- or 5-ounce increments.
“We want to have people come in and taste all the wines without breaking the bank,” Martley states quite matter-of-factly.
The assorted wines—currently arranged according to similar styles/flavor profiles, with blurbs listing the name, price and a staff description of each wine posted nearby—are stored in 10 temperature-controlled enomatic units which customers can access via a rechargeable tasting card (like a pre-paid credit card). Customers swipe their card, select the wine and the amount they’d like to taste, and the corresponding price is debited from the card while the automated dispenser fills their glass. Meanwhile, the wines can be enjoyed with rotating flights of cheeses (typically three pieces: mild, medium and strong, all from the same region) plus a surprise accompaniment (mixed nuts, olives, honey).
During a recent visit, the wines ranged from $1-an-ounce California sauvignon blanc to a $600 1996 Domaine de la Romanee Echezeaux ($30 per ounce; $99 for a 5-ounce glass).
“We have no qualms whatsoever about putting really expensive wines in here,” Martley asserted, pointing out that at least one enomatic unit remains dedicated to the higher-end gems plucked from the adjoining cellar.
According to Martley, many of the cellar wines are “not available for purchase [anywhere else] in Virginia,” noting that buyers are often dispatched to find hard-to-find vintages from private collections.
“People are really starting to tell their friends, ‘There are these great, rare wines,’” he said of the buzz the cellar selection has garnered from local collectors. Moreover, he stressed that Whole Foods will provide a full refund for any wine that appears to be corked—whether it was selected from the cellar or the bargain bins—that is returned to the store in a timely manner.
“We’re going to take care of the customer because that’s how we’re going to build our business,” he stated, quickly adding, “We stand behind the wines.”
Martley is already toying with the idea of introducing thematic units—featuring wines from the same region, or all the latest California cabernet sauvignons—later this summer, and noted that one unit has since been switched over to nothing but sweet wines to accommodate customer demand.
Meanwhile, management is considering plans to make the Enoteca available for private tastings during the week. Likewise, weekend congestion could be alleviated by planting satellite tasting units throughout the store.
Whole Foods Market, 4501 Market Commons Drive, Fairfax; 703-222-2058. Enoteca open from 12 p.m. to 9 p.m. on weekdays, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on weekends. For more information about the Enoteca, please visit:
www.wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/fairlakes
(June/July 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
Ancient wine industry looks for a fresh start
By Warren Rojas
A proud Mediterranean nation home to over a dozen unique grape varieties, Greece has been producing wine for ages.
Historical records suggest the Hellenic wine industry began over 4000 years ago—establishing the first “culture of wine” along the way. A group of Greek vintners recently banded together (www.allaboutgreekwine.com) to re-introduce their viticultural treasures to modern oenophiles.
Paul Yohai believes the current crop of wines from the topographically diverse island republic should help Greece creep on to any serious wine collector’s radar. “An exciting radical transformation is underway here,” he says, noting that classically-trained vintners from all around the world have opted to experiment with indigenous Greek varietals rather than transplanting traditional European vines.
He points to the 2004 Erasmios Agiorgitiko ($12) as one of the new head turners, hailing it as “velvety smooth on the palate, with a rich suave texture.” A product of the 20-year-old Kotrotsos Winery, Yohai maintains that the wine features a “complex bouquet and flavors of baked cherries, dark berries, cedar, cigar box and exotic spices.”
Another steal is the 2003 Hermes moschofilero ($8), a complex white Yohai says delivers “lovely floral aromas of rose petal, honeysuckle and fresh mandarin orange balanced by a gripping minerality.” But don’t be fooled by the fruit-forward bouquet, since Yohai says this one “finishes crisp, clean and dry with hints of spice.”
Suzanne McGrath delved into Macedonian territory to find one of her Greek selections, emerging with the 2004 Katogi & Strofilia xinomavro ($16). She likens the prominent red to an Italian pinot noir or Nebbiolo—“medium-bodied, with red fruit flavors (think strawberry, plum, and cherry) and a distinctive earthiness”— urging first-time tasters to expect “sweet spice notes of cinnamon and mace.”
For traditionalists, McGrath recommends the 2003 Domaine Dereskos cabernet sauvignon ($17), a Peloponnesian red she tags as “very impressive.” A shoo-in for any lamb dinner, McGrath says to look for “attractive, cedary aromas (from a year of aging in French oak) and complex flavors of ripe red fruits and mint.”
Much like Yohai, Kathy Morgan is convinced the Greek wine business is “in the midst of a quality revolution that cannot be stopped.” Morgan views boutique winemaker Paris Sigalas as one of the leaders of the reinvigorated Greek wine scene, lauding the 2005 Sigalas Santorini ($18) for its “crisp, fresh and flavorful expressions” of the native assyrtiko grape. “His unoaked version is beautifully balanced, with pure citrus and peach flavors and a distinct minerality,” she counsels.
Morgan is equally smitten with the 2003 Skouras Grand Cuvée Nemea ($25), a top shelf re-interpretation of Agiorgitiko brought to bear by winemaker George Skouras. “Although Nemea’s Agiorgitiko grape is known to be light and easy-drinking, the Skouras Grand Cuvée is made from high-elevation fruit, producing a serious and sophisticated red with great currant, black plum and tobacco flavors,” she states.
(May 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
Bubblies to brighten up any breakfast
By Warren Rojas
Is there anything more decadent than breaking open a bottle of bubbly first thing in the morning?
Probably.
But confidence is high any easily offended dining companions will graciously overlook your opulent overture if you make sure to pour them a carbonated eye-opener.
Kathy Morgan believes that, in many ways, serving sparkling wines with our favorite late-morning repast makes perfect sense.
“What makes them absolutely perfect with brunch is that they make great accompaniments for eggs—and most wines do not,” Morgan counsels, further postulating that “anything salty, tangy, toasty, spicy or crunchy can be successfully served with sparkling wines.”
For an all-purpose wake-me-up, Morgan likes NV [Non-Vintage] Bisol “Jeio” Prosecco ($17), a “dry, light and refreshing” sparkling wine from the famed Valdobiaddene region of northeastern Italy. “At Harry’s Bar in Venice, Bisol is the Prosecco of choice for their famous Belinis,” she states.
Suzanne McGrath prefers to get things started with NV J. Laurens Cremant de Limoux ($18), a sparkling wine produced in southwestern France, near the Spanish border.
“Although the sparkling wines of the region are traditionally made from the obscure Mauzac grape, this one blends Mauzac with Chardonnay, to produce a rich, toasty sparkler that walks and talks like Champagne —for about half the price,” McGrath says of the noteworthy blend.
Moving even further west, Paul Yohai says he prefers to perk up his Mimosas—a beverage Yohai heralds for not only providing “your vitamin C for the day, but a renewed attitude”—with the NV Marquis de Monistrol Cava ($8). “These Spanish sparklers use local grapes, but undergo secondary fermentation in the bottle, just like Champagne,” he says.
Morgan suggests that traditionalists, on the other hand, should enjoy the unadulterated pleasure of NV Gosset Brut Excellence Champagne ($40), a true French Champagne she claims is “richly textured and beautifully balanced…[and] made in a friendly, lively style.”
When absolutely nothing but bona fide Champagne will do, Yohai recommends reaching for a bottle of De Margerie Grand Cru Brut Rose ($33), a Pinot Noir-based bubbly from the well-respected village of Bouzy within Champagne proper.
“Perfect with poached or smoked salmon, this pale pink sparkler features tiny bubbles that glide across your palate, melting into a long pleasing finish,” he suggests.
If you are still standing after all that, McGrath suggests you save some room for the effervescent pleasures of a little NV Caves Carod Clairette de Die ($14).
“This little-known sparkler from southern France’s Rhone Valley is similar in style to Moscato d’Asti from Italy,” she says, urging any intrepid imbibers to “serve it with a batch of Bananas Foster for a happy ending to any brunch.”
(April 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
Taste. Evaluate. Debate.
By Warren Rojas
Some of the most venerated wines in the world come from these prominent regions in France. Individual harvests may founder or thrive from year to year, but the rich history, expressive soils and passionate producers within each area sustain these dueling giants as the de facto standard bearers of the French wine tradition.
So while the rest of the country remains transfixed on college hoops, we invite you to stage your own battle royal. Invite some friends over to try each of the representative wines listed in the bracket above, and see which of the “Sippable Six” sways the crowd most.
Just be ready for a “spirited” fight.
Kathy Morgan balks at the notion of encapsulating either of these diverse viticultural camps in any one bottle, but suggests that it “it is possible to discover the magic of each region” through careful exploration. Pointing to the 2003 and 2005 vintages from Burgundy as “the surest bets on the shelves right now,” Morgan taps the 2005 Domaine A. Chopin Hautes-Cotes de Nuits blend as an indicator of Burgundian greatness, estimating that it “offers insight into the captivating purity and graceful silkiness and polish that are the essence of Burgundy.”
In Bordeaux—which Morgan perceives as “the balance of power and finesse”—she likes the 2003 Les Hauts de Pontet Pauillac, a youngish but well-rounded wine.
For Paul Yohai, the Bordeaux-Burgundy competition is much more primal. “Some would describe Bordeaux as intellectual and Burgundy as sensual,” he says of the age-old wine divide. He touts the 2000 La Reserve de Léoville Barton as “one of the best value wines of all Bordeaux,” trumpeting this second growth from St-Julien as “a big, rich, full bodied Cabernet Sauvignon” with definite staying power.
Looking eastward, Yohai casts his vote for the 2002 Domaine Patrick Javillier Savigny-les-Beaune Les Serpentieres, a Premier Cru Pinot Noir he claims can grace your table this evening or spend some time in your private cellar.
Suzanne McGrath selects the 2003 Chateau Lascombes Margaux as her Bordeaux pick, suggesting that the traditional Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon tag team “is delicious now, but will continue to soften and improve” for at least a decade.
In a nod to the evolving global wine scene, McGrath recommends the more “modern” 2003 Shaps & Roucher Pommard as the best ambassador for Burgundy, stressing that this particular Pinot Noir—while still totally French—bears the stamp of Virginia winemaker, Michael Shaps.
Of course, attempting to pigeonhole any wine producing area based on the merits of single wine is pure folly. But it would be an even bigger affront—at least according to Morgan—to sample the assorted Bordeaux and Burgundy selections in a sterile environment. “To fully understand each wine, it is important to remember that these are food wines,” she counsels, estimating that “beef or lamb with sautéed wild mushrooms will flatter both regions equally.”
So, start some savory treats in the oven. Break out the scorecards. Allow the bottles to breathe for a bit. And, let the games begin.
Bordeaux
2003 Les Hauts de Pontet Pauillac ($30) – “rich and well balanced, with classic Bordelaise attributes of black currant, cedar and smoke”(KM).
2003 Chateau Lascombes Margaux ($52) - “exceptionally concentrated wines with deep purple color and inky, berry-like fruit” (SM).
2000 Reserve de Leoville Barton ($35) – “featuring dark cassis, and ripe berry fruit accented by toasty oak, with nuances of tobacco and spice” (PY).
Burgundy
2005 Domaine A. Chopin Hautes-Cotes de Nuits ($27) – “deliciously perfumed, and the palate offers pure wild strawberry flavors and fine, well-knit tannins” (KM).
2003 Shaps & Roucher Pommard ($37) - “plenty of weight and ripeness, with dark, black cherry-like fruit and spice” (SM).
2002 Javillier Savigny-Les-Beaune Premier Cru Les Serpentieres ($30) – “fabulous bouquet and flavors of smoky black cherry, spice and mineral notes with a long smooth finish “(PY).
(March 2007)
Posted by The Editorial Desk / Thursday, December 4th, 2008
Spirits Scholar Pours Forth on Wine Appreciation
By Warren Rojas
Jay Youmans / Photography by Morgan Howarth
Quick—what do you call someone who gleefully sips wine morning, noon and night? Some might be labeled “winos.” Veteran oenophile Jay Youmans, on the other hand, has the credentials to instead be considered a “master.”
Youmans is a graduate of the grueling Master of Wine program, an exhaustive wine course administered by the London-based Institute of Masters of Wine. According to IMW executive director Siobhan Turner, there are 257 MWs worldwide—a diverse membership comprising 194 men and 63 women from 20 different countries, including two dozen U.S. alumni.
Whereas the MW title is basically a prerequisite for top-tier wine jobs in Europe, Youmans acknowledges the prestigious degree is “not that well known here in the U.S.”
At least not yet.
Turner says part of the IMW mission is to promote widespread wine education, an incremental goal they approach via alumni-based instruction. “It’s principally the existing members…who give their time voluntarily to help current students,” she says of the continuing outreach. To that end, Youmans and the other stateside MWs—a growing fraternity that includes wine professionals as well as grape-savvy doctors and film executives—collaborate regularly to help educate and recruit new members.
“There is very much a move to get more people in the U.S. to pass this thing,” Youmans says, quickly adding that occasional happy hour enthusiasts need not apply. “You have to be pretty fanatical to do this,” he warns.
Joining the MW ranks requires over two years of intensive study, attendance at a battery of annual seminars, and the completion of a taxing four-day exam (including the blind-tasting and evaluating of dozens of mystery wines). The yearly exam is broken up into three sections: the practical/blind-tasting component, the wine theory/essay portion (topics range from acceptable viticulture practices to contemporary marketing strategies) and a dissertation.
Once you elect to sit for the exam, Turner says you have three chances or four years (whichever comes first) to successfully pass each section.
According to Youmans, it’s better to know a little bit of everything than a lot about any single topic. “The key to passing this thing…is somehow you have to know with all these questions is how it’s [winemaking] done all over the world,” he counsels. As part of his own exam preparation, Youmans bought around 40 mixed cases of wine and analyzed three random bottles each night—because, in the end, he believes blind tasting is “all about repetition and getting to know the wines.” He also digested new wine books by the dozens, and spent countless hours every weekend composing practice essays at his local library.
But with each passing year, Youmans finds there’s that much more to learn. “Every vintage shakes everything up,” he says of the fluid industry, noting, “You can’t possibly know it all.”
Turner, meanwhile, stresses that although the IMW has a reputation of being “ferociously difficult,” the expanding member rolls confirm there is plenty of room for those willing to make the intellectual investment. “It’s certainly a challenge,” she says of the elusive MW diploma, “[but] if people put the time in, it’s not impossible.”
To learn more about the comprehensive Master of Wine program, please visit: www.masters-of-wine.org. For a schedule of Youmans’ progressive wine seminars, visit: www.washingtonwineacademy.com, or to sign up for his new wine-centric newsletter, visit: www.i-winereview.com
(February 2007)