From High Tech to Low Country

Six Wi-Fi-free and cell phone-dead destinations where you can really unplug

By Kathryn McKay and Renee Sklarew

 

Pennsylvania Wilds Region

A century after much of the north-central region of Pennsylvania was dismissed as a wasteland after timber was mined in the early 1900s, the commonwealth christened the land the Great Wilds Region in 2003. Cell-phone service is as scarce as people in this rustic sanctuary that covers two million acres. That’s larger than Connecticut, Rhode Island and Vermont combined, or about seven-and-a-half times the size of Fairfax County.

The area boasts 185 miles of mountain streams, 29 state parks and eight state forests. There aren’t any fancy restaurants or luxury hotels. Most visitors camp out, rent a cabin or stay in a small bed and breakfast.

A flannel shirt, jeans and boots will get you everywhere you need to go. This is a place for watching, wondering and walking. For fishing, hiking and hunting. For bird-watching and stargazing. It’s the kind of place where you can have a mountain all to yourself and hike for a day without seeing another soul. Yet as much as the people who live here value their privacy, they enjoy educating visitors about how to enjoy the land. Each of the region’s 12 counties is represented by a visitors bureau that provides information on the parks, trails, attractions and events in that county.

If the Wilds Region had a mascot, it would be the majestic elk. Eastern elk roamed freely throughout the region until hunting and logging wiped out the herds. When the forests started to grow back in the early 20th century, the state introduced Rocky Mountain elk. After some fits and starts, 800 elk now roam freely, and the state remains committed to these creatures.

Unlike their smaller cousins, the white-tailed deer that are ubiquitous in Northern Virginia, elk usually don’t bolt when you drive by. Pavilions, information booths and bright yellow elk signs are scattered across Elk County, with the largest concentration of the species near the village of Benezette. With a population of 300, elk outnumber people for most of the year, but the mating season in September and October attracts tens of thousands of people to the area.

This distinctive sound of male elks “bugling” to attract females can be heard from miles away. “It seems almost prehistoric,” said Rawley Cogan of the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation. “It starts as a groan and ends in a high-pitch whistle.”

Males or bulls can weigh as much as 900 pounds and grow antlers as long as 5 feet. “Their tissue is the fastest growing known to man,” Cogan said. “If our limbs healed like their anglers grew, you could break your leg, and it would heal in a day.”

Elk are hunted the first weekend in November. “We have 40 tags, or chances, and about 30,000 people apply,” said Janet Colwell, a local guide. To prepare for more tourists interested in elk, a visitors center is scheduled to open in 2009.

Elk don’t roam in Pine Creek Gorge in Tioga County, but bald eagles, bobcats and river otters live in this 50-mile gap in the land. Dubbed the “Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania,” the gorge can reach up to 1,450 feet deep. And unlike the real Grand Canyon, it is surrounded by 165,000 acres of forest.

Where the Seneca Indians once formed a footpath followed by trains carrying timber to sawmills is a 60-mile trail with only two-percent gradation for hiking, biking, riding horses, rollerblading or any form of transportation that’s motor-free. Canoe access points are scattered along the creek, and beginning rock-climbers appreciate the cliffs with bolted routes and flat landing zones.

After a day of activity, some people head down to Cherry Springs State Park in Potter County for a 360-degree view of the sky in one of the darkest places on the East Coast. Others stay in Tioga County for dinner in the town of Wellsboro, where gas lanterns line the main street and cell phones do receive signals.

Escape
From caps to socks and photographs to figurines, almost everything is elk at the mom-and-pop Elk Country Store owned by the Rowes. 23154 Quehanna Highway, Weedville, Pa.; 814-787-4460.

Everything from soaps and lip gloss to fine wooden bowls and tables are handmade, mostly by local artists, at the Artisan’s Shoppe. 17 Crafton St., Wellsboro, Pa.; 570-724-5166; www.artisansshoppe.com.

Reboot
Elk antlers, a snakeskin and a mountain lion with blinking yellow eyes adorn the walls at the Medix Hotel, where elk burgers and steak are best-sellers. 23155 Quehanna Highway, Weedville, Pa.; 814-787-5920.

Everyone is addressed as “honey” at the comfy Wellsboro Diner, open since 1939. Pies made by the same baker for 20 years often sell out before dinner. 19 Main St., Wellsboro, Pa.; 570-724-3992; www.wellsborodiner.com.

Unplug
At Wapiti Woods, cook in or outside five cabins with full kitchens. Two add romance to the rustic setting with whirlpools fit for a couple. 5186 River Road, Route 555, Weedville, Pa.; 814-787-7525; www.wapitiwoods.com.—KM

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Virginia Eastern Shore

The Eastern Shore of Virginia remains pastoral and unoccupied compared to the rest of the Delmarva Peninsula. It’s recognized by the United Nations as a “biosphere reserve” and has one of the last wetland habitats in the world. The largest coastal wilderness on the Eastern Seaboard of the United States, this narrow finger of land separates the Chesapeake Bay from the Atlantic Ocean. Traveling south on Route 13, the only major highway on the peninsula, you will pass protected environments—Chincoteague, Wallops Island, the Barrier Islands and, finally, Kiptopeke State Park—until you reach the 17.9-mile Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel leading to Norfolk.

The Bridge-Tunnel itself is a marvel. It barely skirts over the bay, going above water and then under it. At times you’re driving alongside fishing boats or straight toward a container ship.

Thousands of years ago, this peninsula was inhabited by the Algonquin tribes. Proof of the tribe’s fondness for seafood are the ancient shell middens, refuse of shellfish-harvesting, buried along the creek beds there. Native-American influence is seen in the names of the villages and the tributaries. The translation for Chesapeake is “great shellfish bay.”

Lisa Traynor, 53, of Chincoteague, said people commonly ride bikes to work. “The speed limit is 25 mph. It’s safe to pedal anywhere.” Asked about cell-phone coverage, she raved: “It’s not great, but I love that fact.”

The towns, founded in the late 1600s, are sparsely populated. Ernestine Smith, 76, resident of Belle Haven laughed, “The phone book for the whole Virginia shore is half an inch thick!” The small villages are a picture book of architectural treasures. Homes are Victorian clapboard, streets have old brick sidewalks; both are flanked by lush gardens and picket fences. Between towns lie miles of flat marshes, and in parts the land is only three miles across, huddled between two colossal bodies of water.

Tourism is an important source of revenue. Most accommodations along these country roads are diminutive inns advertising themselves as “a great place to read a book.” A low-tech utopia, the natural environment draws you outside to explore its treasures: eco-tours off the coast of Wachapreague or Thomas Gardens’ rare and unusual plants in New Church.

Fairfax County naturalist and historian Tony Bulmer, 40, of Nokesville, makes year-round trips to Virginia’s Eastern Shore. “Winter is an amazing time to visit. That’s when you see the snow geese, red-throated loons, all the winter birds that nest in the Arctic.”

The Shore boasts some of its own “green” citizens, who consciously maintain a small carbon footprint. Tessa Brown, 46, works for the thriving Blue Crab Bay Company in Melfa, which donates some of its profit to protect the environment. Manufacturing gourmet food and gifts, this homegrown company was originally known for clam and crab dips.

Like many locals, Brown grew up here but left to pursue life in a city. Besides missing the quiet and soothing calm of the region, she was drawn back by the sunsets. “There are only a few places I’ve been where you can see the sun set over the water. I call it God’s little garden by the sea.” She returned a few years ago. “The nickname for people like me is a ‘come-back-here.’”

Inside the Blue Crab Bay gift shop, pungent spices arrest your senses while you admire the nautical decorations in every corner. Owner Pamela Barefoot, 57, collects organic materials from the beaches to create her seaweed soaps, and the cozy store’s food samples boast “the everyday taste of the Eastern Shore.” Their Crab House Crunch is an extraordinary combination of sea salt, vanilla and zesty red pepper, somewhat reminiscent of Old Bay seasoning.

Barefoot recommends stopping for brunch at The Inn & Garden Cafe in Onancock (open on weekends only) for the grilled shrimp, smoked salmon and homemade bread. Their menu includes sausage-encrusted oysters and lobster ravioli with lump crab. After your meal, walk down to the Onancock Harbor before sunset to spot dazzlingly pink skies.

Escape
The Crazy Lady is a favorite store in downtown Chincoteague. Fun, imaginative women’s clothing at reasonable prices. 4101 Main St., Chincoteague Island, Va.; 757-336-6005.

Blue Crow Antique Mall in Keller (south of Onancock) is a giant warehouse stocked with antiques and collectibles supplied by 150 dealers and local artists. The prices are reasonable, and the items are kitsch. Start in the art gallery in the back, and look for pieces from well-known local artists like Vesna Vidovec and Jose Dovis. 32124 Lankford Highway, Keller, Va.; 757-442-4150.

Reboot
Yellow Duck Bakery in Exmore is perhaps best known for its homemade muffins and locally roasted coffee. 3312 Main St., Exmore, Va.; 757-442-5909; www.yellowduckcafe.com.

No matter where you’re seated at The Island House, you’re guaranteed a spectacular view. Order the fresh seafood. 17 Atlantic Ave., Wachapreague, Va.; 757-787-4242; www.wachapreague.com/theislandhouse.html.

Unplug
The Charlotte Hotel is an upscale B&B with European flair, including friendly hosts, charming rooms, gourmet meals and excellent location–four blocks from the harbor. Owner’s art gallery is next door. 7 North St., Onancock, Va.; 757-787-7400; www.thecharlottehotel.com.

For more rustic digs, hunker down at the KOA Kampgrounds of America, located in the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. Observe the wild ponies in natural splendor. KOA also has an in-ground pool and a beautiful beach, though during some seasons the mosquito population can be high.—RS

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Maryland Savage River Lodge

Upon arrival at Savage River Lodge in Frostburg, Md., don’t count on the wall clocks to check the time. None of them work, or will anytime soon. “We want time to stand still here,” said Mike Dreisbach, 58, who owns and operates the rustic establishment with his wife, Jan Russell.

The route to this vacation destination moves from a highway with a limit of 65 mph to a narrow country lane with a speed of 35 to a mile-and-a-half-long gravel road, where all cars slow to 15. Speed bumps aren’t necessary; there are enough potholes to avoid more than the lightest touch on the gas pedal.

“People ask all the time when we’re going to pave the road,” Dreisbach said. “The answer is never. The road is unpaved on purpose.”

There’s no desire to pave the road. Or fix the clocks. And if cell-phone service ever does reach all the way to the lodge? “We’ll put up a scrambler,” Dreisbach promised.

Landlocked in 45 acres of private property surrounded by 700 acres of state forest in Garrett County, “we’re like a doughnut hole,” Dreisbach said.

Within that hole, the towering lodge with the wraparound porch sits camouflaged among the trees. Inside, old Maryland license plates, snowshoes, family photographs and timepieces adorn the walls, but the see-through fireplace is the biggest attraction. A 75-seat restaurant and conference rooms for meetings round out the back.

A five-minute walk down the road, 18 identical cabins are arranged in the shape of a horseshoe. A gas-fired, cast-iron stove, chairs, tables and sleeper sofa are below an open loft with a queen bed covered by a thick down comforter and plush pillows. There are no televisions or radios. In the morning, freshly squeezed juice in a jelly jar and warm muffins in a basket are delivered with the local paper.

Activities revolve around nature. There’s no tennis court, swimming pool or golf course. The most popular activity is hiking. Two color-coded trails wind around the property. “We call them the inner and outer loops for the people from Northern Virginia and D.C.,” Dreisbach joked.

Without driving, a plethora of cell phone-free activities are available, including snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, fishing for trout, gathering round a campfire and geocaching (treasure-hunting with GPS). Just before the trees bud in March, Dreisbach welcomes guests to make their own maple syrup.

Within 40 minutes of the lodge, the surrounding area offers more low-tech things to do. The best fly-fishing spots and bike paths along the C&O Canal Towpath are in cell phone-free zones. “I can put you on a route where you can brag that you biked 16 miles without even breaking a sweat,” Dreisbach said.

Nearby, Maryland’s only ski resort, Wisp, offers skiing, boarding, tubing, snowshoeing, mobiling and sleighs.

For an old-fashioned treat, pull up alongside horses and buggies at the Amish auctions in Somerset County, Pa. “It’s complete with a caller, and bidders who hold up numbered paddles,” Dreisbach described. “You bid on what’s in season, whether it’s peaches or pumpkins. Anything is possible.”

In Garrett County, Amish farmer Ray Miller, who Dreisbach jokingly calls “new” Amish because he uses electricity and drives a tractor, takes tourists on sleigh rides, hayrides or carriage rides, depending on the weather. Miller sometimes serves as an unofficial spokesperson for the community. “I don’t mind questions,” he said. “Sometimes, I ask them, too.”

You could inquire as to his cell phone.

Escape
Watch glasses, bowls, vases and even Christmas trees being hand blown behind Simon Pearce, an upscale glass shop. 265 Glass Drive, Mountain Lake Park, Md.; 800-774-5277; www.simonpearce.com.

Meet the Spruce Forest Artisan Guild at the village where members work in cabin-like studios. 177 Casselman Road, Grantsville, Md.; 301-895-3332; www.spruceforest.org.

Reboot
Pine Lodge Steakhouse and Saloon’s dining-room views of Deep Creek Lake contrast with the bar scene, where sports fans catch up on scores. 1520 Deep Creek Drive, McHenry, Md.; 301-387-6500; www.pinelodgesteakhouse.com.

Crab cakes are favorites at Cornish Manor Restaurant, located in a historic home built in 1868 as a D.C. judge’s summer retreat. 830 Memorial Drive, Oakland, Md.; 301-334-6499; www.cornishmanor.net.

Unplug
Savage River Lodge, as described above. 1600 Mt. Aetna Drive, Frostburg, Md.; 301-689-3200; www.savageriverlodge.com.—KM

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Virginia Rappahannock County

No stoplights. No fast food restaurants. No national hotels. No shopping malls or strip centers. Virtually nonexistent cell-phone service. Not even a supermarket or a drugstore.

Sixty-five miles west of Washington, D.C., Rappahannock County, Va., could be well known for what it lacks if it wasn’t for one famous place and one fabulous park.

The Inn at Little Washington is renowned and revered as one of the finest places to dine and stay in the world. Reviewers consistently award its accommodations and cuisine the maximum number of stars. Now celebrating its 30th year, the restaurant has won five James Beard Awards, which is like an actor reaping five Academy Awards.

Here, marriage proposals are routine. But if the idea of perusing a 70-page wine list or paying several hundred dollars for dinner doesn’t appeal to your salary or sensibilities, there’s plenty of other things to do in Rappahannock.

Shenandoah National Park hugs the western border of the county, where the Blue Ridge Mountains are usually 10 degrees cooler than the valley below. A trip up Old Rag Mountain, accessible through Sperryville, is one of the most challenging yet popular hikes in the state, as it serves as a backdrop for scenic views throughout Virginia.

The hospitality of the Inn and the natural beauty of the park permeate a casual elegance throughout this romantic, rural sanctuary. “While counties around us continue to grow in the double digits, our population remains at 7,000,” said Barbara Adolfi, psychotherapist and innkeeper of the House on Water Street in Sperryville. “We’re this little oasis of peace and beauty.”

Often called the “Sonoma County of the East,” Rappahannock’s wineries and organic farms rest on hilly roads. Some farmers will even sell fresh eggs and meat to individuals.

Charming tiny towns are lined with art galleries, restaurants and cafes; antique shops and boutiques are sprinkled throughout the region. In the town of Washington, surveyed by the general himself, a jeweler makes everything on site. Sperryville, a bit less formal than Washington, offers the Glassworks Gallery with blown glass made on the premises and more antique markets, including Copper Fox in a converted apple-picking plant as large as a football field.

Rappahannock’s requirement that new residents must purchase at least 25 acres of land to live in the county attracts “people who want privacy and quality space to pursue their interests,” said Kevin Adams, an innkeeper and painter.

Adams is one of about 50 artists who participate in the annual Rappahannock Studio and Gallery Tour. During the first weekend in November, more than 15 studios and 10 galleries show new work in a wide variety of media, including paintings, sculpture, pottery, glassworks, forged ironwork, jewelry, textiles and photography. Several local artists, including sculptor Jeanne Drevas and blacksmith Nol Putnam are nationally recognized in their fields.

All year, Rappahannock’s wineries offer tastings. At Gadino Cellars, visitors can sign up to harvest grapes—even stomp on the rejects with their bare feet—usually sometime between mid-September and early October.

Each of Rappahannock’s bed and breakfasts offer something different. In the century-old House on Water Street, Adolfi’s packages include cooking with foraged foods and photography classes. In addition to a four-course breakfast, the Foster Harris House in Washington runs Tour d’Epicure, which combines cycling and fine cuisine. “We can ride for an hour and only see three cars,” said owner John MacPherson. And at Belle Meade, eggs may have been laid minutes before breakfast. Most of the establishments can arrange for a number of luxury services, including visits with local message therapists.

If rest, relaxation and romance still manage to elude you in Rappahannock, schedule a meeting with local herbalist Teresa Boardwine, who teaches an aphrodisiac class.

Escape
French linens sell best at R. H. Ballard Art, Rug and Home—but the lithographs and fine gifts crafted by local artists at this Southern Living top-50 shop are worth a peek, as well. 307 Main St., Washington, Va.; 540-675-1411; 866-503-3349; www.rhballard.com.

Dalmatian-print aprons, stuffed animals and kids’ overalls lead to smiles and sales at The Inn at Little Washington’s Tavern Shops, directly across the street from the restaurant. Middle and Main Streets, Washington, Va.; 540–675–3800; www.theinnatlittlewashington.com.

Reboot
Darts, fish ‘n chips and eight beers on tap make the Griffin Tavern feel like a genuine English pub. 659 Zachary Taylor Highway, Flint Hill, Va.; 540-675-3227; www.griffintavern.com.

If Thornton River Grille is the precursor dinner destination for one of the finest restaurants in the world, you know it must be excellent. Routes 522 and 211, Sperryville, Va.; 540-987-8790; www.thorntonrivergrille.com.

Unplug
Baked goods are made fresh at Hopkins Ordinary. The morning coffee comes from the roaster just down the road, and should be enjoyed on the B&B’s wraparound porches. 47 Main St., Sperryville, Va.; 540-987-3383; www.hopkinsordinary.com.—KM

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West Virginia Potomac Highlands

“Oh my, it’s cold.”

“What’s the temperature?”

“Cold.”

Locals from Highland County, Va., know the Bullpasture River Gorge is a perfect place to cool off: In spring, the water rages as melting snow cuts through mossy rock walls, creating mini-rapids and swimming holes, and returning to a gentle ramble by late summer. Giant scarlet maples, gnarly sycamores and blooming hemlocks flank both sides of the body of water, visually blocking it from the road above.

Here, whether you plan to swim or fly-fish, you must first summon your courage to cross the weather-beaten suspension bridge made of rotting wooden planks to enter the ravine. Almost too narrow for parents to clutch a child’s hand, intrepid visitors cross the bridge single file to reach the shore.

Children in their inflatable dinghies float across the meandering river to scale the boulders on the other side. While you’re resting in the clearing with one eye on the kids, a friendly dragonfly lands on your head. Others in the welcoming committee include beaver, trout and a huge variety of birds. Highland County is known to bird-watching enthusiasts as an ideal place to set up camp.

Some folks test the rope swing, which drops down into the deepest part of the river. Two strokes from the center, the water becomes shallow enough to wade back to shore. Later, a walk down the narrow path through the woods brings the sounds of the river dancing, the crickets calling and contact with your inner Tom Sawyer.

The Gorge is part of the Virginia State Park system, and is 11 miles south of the historic town and 1862 Civil War battle site McDowell. Little has changed in the region since the roads were completed in the 1840s to link the Shenandoah Valley with the Virginia frontier.

“We are the least populated county in the state of Virginia. We have no Wal-Mart, no McDonald’s, no traffic lights, no traffic, and we like it that way,” said Carolyn Pohowsky, director of the Highland County Chamber of Commerce. Pohowsky, 60, promises that people who are looking for peace and quiet, those who wish to ride horses and mountain bikes, along with birders and hikers, will fall in love with the area’s pristine beauty. “They are usually as enchanted with what we do have as they are with what we don’t have.”

The reason the area lacks cell-phone coverage? “There are no towers in the mountains. Our mountains are a formidable barrier between us and the cell-phone world,” Pohowsky explained.

On either side of the road, in valleys the natives call “hollas,” cows and sheep graze on lush grasses, oblivious to the occasional passing vehicle. The nickname “Little Switzerland” is especially apropos on late summer days when the air is filled with jingling cow bells and the strong scent of manure. Luckily, the aroma is balanced by an abundance of wild blackberries, thistles and sunflowers casting their own perfume.

Drive over the border into West Virginia to Smoke Hole Caverns and Seneca Rocks. Originally inhabited by the Eastern Woodland Indians, Smoke Hole Caverns were used by Native Americans to survive difficult weather. On a tour of the deep, chilly underground caves, guides describe how Chief Bald Eagle’s Seneca tribe smoked their meat and hides. Later, the Caverns were inhabited by settlers, who during the Civil War were rumored to have hidden gold and coins in the walls. For the clean, cold stream that trickles through them, the caves were also ideal for producing moonshine. Today, the only residents are the sleeping bats.

At nearby Seneca Rocks, you’ll encounter a rock-climber’s paradise. This 900-foot formation of quartzite is popular with adventurers seeking a challenging ascent and miles of isolated hiking trails. Check out the Discovery Center at the site’s base, or rent horses at Yokum’s Stables. Then, take a deep breath of pure air, and practice your yodel in the echoing hills.

Escape
Sugar Tree Country Store in McDowell features locally produced maple-sugar products. This mid-19th-century store has a brass register, a pot-bellied stove and is run by a group of local Mennonites who sell locally milled flour, flavored butters, baskets and pottery made by Virginia artisans. 18 Mansion House Road, McDowell, Va.; 800-396-2445; www.sugartreecountrystore.com.

For regional crafts, original art and jewelry, visit the Gallery of Mountain Secrets featuring works by local “woodturners,” pros in the field of finding pieces of wood and polishing or shaping them into art. 114 Main St., Monterey, Va.; 540-468-2020.

Reboot
Hungry travelers will appreciate Harpers Old Country Store, buit in 1902, and the Front Porch Restaurant, perched a single story above. In warm weather, sit outdoors on the large deck for a view of Seneca Rocks and an “old-timey atmosphere” with everything from root beer and pizza pockets to leg of lamb. Route 28, Seneca Rocks, W.Va.; 304-567-2555; www.mountainhighlands.com.

Step back in time to the genteel Highland Inn in Monterey, an antebellum mansion on the National Register for Historic Places. Featuring regional cuisine in the Black Sheep Tavern or, more formally, dinner in their Monterey Dining Room. 68 W. Main St., Monterey, Va.; 888-466-4682; www.highland-inn.com

Unplug
Bear Mountain Farm and Wilderness Retreat’s small cabins have no television, Wi-Fi or phones. In their place: a cedar-fired sauna and a large, centrally located cabin for group meetings. Known for hosting artist retreats, the cabins sit 4,400 feet above sea level, so bring extra blankets. 2599 Bear Mountain Road, Monterey, Va.; 540-468-2700; www.mountain-retreat.com.

Harman’s North Fork Cabins are more luxurious log cottages built on the Potomac River. They accommodate couples, groups and families. Many have outdoor hot tubs. Route 55 and 28, Cabins, W.Va.; 800-436-6254; www.wvlogcabins.com.—RS

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Maryland Tilghman Island

Still relatively undiscovered, this seafaring village is a 20-minute drive from St. Michaels and offers an escape that includes excellent fishing and fresh seafood.

A getaway trip to Tilghman requires crossing the Chesapeake Bay Bridge. Calm settles over you as you absorb the pace and hospitality of these water towns on the Maryland Eastern Shore. You’ll take Route 33 past corn and soybean fields and estates dating back to the 1700s, veering east until the land stops. Here, the air has the unmistakable fragrance of salt water and the sedating lull of warm sea breezes. The only sounds are seagulls passing by and old pickups backfiring as they putter slowly by—very slowly by.

There’s no mistaking that the tempo has moved to a relaxed crawl. You’ve reached Tilghman, an authentic, unspoiled town on the Chesapeake Bay. Tilghman has no chain hotels or restaurants. Despite growing tourism in the region and Washington-area transplants buying second homes, it still belongs to its founding generations. Bethesda teacher Maura Freibaum, 75, and her husband bought a vacation cottage here 20 years ago and made a full move to Tilghman after retiring. She chuckled when describing cell-phone coverage. “It’s not easy. Sometimes you have to move around to find reception.”

The town was founded as a farm. Two original skipjacks, the boats that made up the first commercial sailing fleet in North America, are on display at Dogwood Harbor, brimming with vessels of every kind: yachts, wooden dinghies, sailing rigs and speedboats. Walk along the harbor to spot the burly fisherman bringing in their daily haul. Friendliness is second nature to these folks, so to gather a local yarn, stop by the Corner Market for old-fashioned Hershey’s ice cream and a chat, both for less than a dollar.

Whether you’re an experienced angler or have never held a pole, there are several fishing tours available. Tilghman native son and local celebrity Buddy Harrison offers private charters and group outings. If you’re outdoors by 7:30 a.m., you’ll see the professional fishermen heading off for a day at sea. Channel the Eastern Shore forefathers with a ride on a working skipjack, such as the Rebecca T. Ruark, which regularly cruises by the old lighthouses. It’s best to go out at sunset.

When the water is calm, rent a kayak for the day. The Tilghman shoreline beckons kayakers to explore its deserted coves and poke into its marshes full of waterfowl. The Inn at Knapp’s Narrows Marina offers both kayak or canoe rentals, as well as maps of Talbot County’s local water trails.

Another option is to rent bikes at the Marina and peddle around the island. Freibaum emphasized that visitors should “feel free to ride or walk the side streets. Or you can sit and watch the boats come through.

To boredom-proof your trip, include a visit to Phillips Wharf Environmental Center, where kids can learn about the secret lives of bay creatures. Phillips offers two-hour “It’s a Crab’s Life” program amd features a petting zoo with horseshoe crabs, live oysters and other sea animals, as well as a demonstration of how pollutants affect clean, fresh water. Call in advance to schedule a tour or program: 888-312-7847.

In fall, Tilghman’s watermen are still hauling in crabs, the biggest of the season. Oct. 18 is this year’s Tilghman Day, when visitors can dine side by side with natives to feast on crabs, oysters and clams. Tip beers with the local firemen, enjoy the sounds of bluegrass bands, or enter the crab-picking contest. Rowboat races, oyster-shucking and boat-docking competitions are all part of the annual festivities, along with a live auction of mostly sports memorabilia.

For help planning your environmentally low-impact tourism experience, consult www.delmarvalite.org for more advice about low-tech vacations on the Eastern Shore.

Escape
To further investigate the history of the region inhabited by ancient Indian tribes 13,000 years ago, stop by Crawfords Nautical Books, open every weekend from April through December. Gibson Town Road, Tilghman Island, Md.; 410-886-2418; www.crawfordsnautical.com.

Island Treasures gift shop sells nautical keepsakes and T-shirts, and is accessible by bike (wide-shouldered roads make for safe and easy pedaling). 21551 Chesapeake House Drive, Tilghman Island, Md.; 410-886-2058; www.chesapeakehouse.com.

Reboot
A day of wind and spray whets the appetite for fresh fish and the like. Harrison’s Chesapeake House is a bustling, family-style restaurant with plentiful homemade sides farmed locally, like fresh corn, lima beans and stewed tomatoes. Order the rockfish, oysters or crab cakes—seafood hauled in by Tilghman fishermen. 21551 Chesapeake Drive, Tilghman Island, Md.; 410-866-2121; www.chesapeakehouse.com.

Diners love the soups, especially the cream of crab and salmon chowder, at The Bridge, located above the drawbridge—a perfect perch to watch the boats go by year-round. 6136 Tilghman Island Road, Tilghman Island, Md.; 410-886-2330; www.bridge-restaurant.com.

Unplug
The Lazy Jack Inn, built in 1855, is a Victorian bed and breakfast near Dogwood Harbor that allows its guests easy walking access to everything. 5907 Tilghman Island Road, Tilghman Island, Md.; 800-690-5080; www.lazyjackinn.com.

Black Walnut Point is a comfortable 57-acre wildlife sanctuary whose main house and isolated cottages are nestled between pine woods and marshes and surrounded on three sides by water. Your only companions are cormorants, herons, hawks and eagles. 1700 Black Walnut Point Road, Tilghman Island, Md.; 410-886-2452; www.blackwalnutpoint.com.—RS

 

(September 2008)

Tags: Travel