Coast to Coast
 
Cool Weather Escapes

 
By Meghan Yudes

Grand Canyon
The desert is known for dramatic displays of light. On a seemingly brown canvas, blues, violets, pinks and corals come alive at sunrise and sunset. In October, colors explode over the canyon as air circulation picks up from its former sluggish state; clouds dance and twirl, creating the ideal setting for a morning or evening show. Despite millions of visitors a year, the rim is still a remote destination; the Grand Canyon is three to four hours from the Phoenix airport.

The North Rim is the spot to go for those who want the lights with the leaves. Although you'll be hard pressed to see the Colorado River, you will see a blush of scarlet and gold foliage. There are three scenic lookout points: Point Imperial, Cape Royal and Point Sublime. The most remote western viewpoint, Point Sublime, is a two-hour trip worthy of a four-wheel drive. The North Rim is open through mid-November.

Dare to hike the Grand Canyon! The Grand Canyon Field Institute offers educational excursions below the rim. Trail guides lead classes on geology, ecology, archaeology, history, photography and more. Be one of the rare 5% of visitors who brave the canyon trails. For more information, www.grandcanyon.org/fieldinstitute/

WHERE TO STAY
If you're looking to stay in the park, Kachina Lodge is a modest choice. While the famous El Tovar only has three official canyon view rooms (these prized views are often booked a year or two in advance), Kachina Lodge offers views from all "canyon side" rooms ($136 all canyon rooms/all year). For reservations, www.grandcanyonlodges.com

WHERE TO EAT
When you're in the presence of one of the world's greatest wonders, it becomes taxing to head indoors. Picnic at Vista Encantadora, located at the Cape Royal lookout point, one of the few areas that have tables perched near the rim.

South Rim restaurants El Tovar and the Arizona Room offer sweeping vistas of the canyon. For reliable, standard fare and large picture windows, dine at the Arizona Room. For equally casual dining with upscale entrée options, choose El Tovar. Both are open year-round for breakfast, lunch and dinner. For dining information and reservations at El Tovar, call 928.638.2631.

Santa Barbara
Crowds begin to fade from this popular destination beginning in late-September when there is still much to explore! Coastal walks along El Capitan State Beach are best in October through November when Monarch butterflies congregate along the creek to breed. For more information; www.parks.ca.gov.

Autumn is the most spectacular time to witness the sun rising and setting over the valley; after a summer season of forest fires, swirling clusters of particles hang low in the air and bounce the sun's rays like a prism. Elbow Beach is often hailed as the spot for sky watchers, but the view from the hills at the Santa Barbara Mission is equally impressive. Area information; www.santabarbara.com.

Santa Barbara is a 2 hour scenic drive from LAX. Shuttles from the airport are $80 roundtrip (www.santabarbaraairbus.com).

WHERE TO STAY
The Santa Barbara Biltmore (www.fourseasons.com/santabarbara/) sits at the ocean's edge. Self-guided tour maps are available for the hotel's botanical garden, which teems with rare fauna and flora. Rooms reflect the property's Spanish Colonial heritage (starting at $550). La Marina, the hotel's fine-dining restaurant, has arguably the best view in Santa Barbara; book a window seat before sunset to enjoy nature's show over the Pacific Ocean.

WHERE TO EAT
The Wine Cask is an intimate, fine-dining experience in one of the most stunning dining rooms on the west coast; the hand-stenciled, wood-beam ceiling nearly steals the show. The restaurant serves simple, Californian cuisine paired with local wines. 813 Anacapa Street: for seasonal hours and reservations; 800-436-9463.

Bouchon is a casually elegant restaurant that specializes in fresh, local ingredients, including fish from the Santa Barbara Channel and meats from local ranches.9 W. Victoria Street; 805-730-1160.

Bucks County, Pennsylvania
Approximately three and a half hours by car, the best time to visit the southeastern region of Pennsylvania is mid- to late October. Best known for winding country roads and historic towns nestled along the Delaware River, leaf-lookers can take in the region from a single vantage point; on a clear day, Bowman's Hill Tower has a visibility of 25 miles. Located within Washington Crossing Historic Park, admission includes tours of the grounds (adults: $5, children: $2). Open Tuesday through Saturday, 9am to 5pm, Sunday, noon to 5 pm. For more information; 215-493-4076.

Those that equate the fall with long, Sunday drives will appreciate a tour of the region's covered bridges, an iconic structure of rural Pennsylvania. There are many romantic conjectures explaining the original purpose of its design: the Pennsylvania Dutch call them "kissing bridges," suggesting they were engineered for romantic moments. The truth: the roof-line design was pragmatic, tripling the lifespan of the bridge. For a complete list and map of local bridges, check out www.experiencebuckscounty.com.

Let nature rush past you on The New Hope and Ivyland Railroad. Tenderly restored, the historic train takes visitors on a two and a half hour "Fall Foliage" tour every weekend in October. Tickets are $22; under 12, $16; under 2, $3. For more information, www.newhoperailroad.com.

WHERE TO STAY
Woolverton Inn, a historic stone manor, is nestled within a private reserve of forests and farms. Seemingly remote, the inn is only five minutes from New Hope. A gourmet, three-course country breakfast is included; guests enjoy savory morning meals in the dining room, garden or in bed (upon request). Rooms from $130, for more information: www.woolvertoninn.com.

WHERE TO EAT
Lambertville, a town perched parallel to New Hope on the New Jersey side of the Delaware, offers fine dining options and a chance to flee the crowds that flock the other side of the river. Hamilton's Grill Room, a quaint BYOB with a Mediterranean flair, is often hailed as the best restaurant in the area. The best seats are outdoors, perched canal side. Open Monday through Saturday from 6 to 10 pm, Sunday from 5 to 9 pm. 8 Coryell Street; 609-397-4343.

For an equally spectacular waterview, head to the Landing Restaurant in New Hope for casual fare served al fresco. If the air has a nip to it, dinner is served indoors fireside. Open 11 am to 9 pm daily. 24 North Main Street; 215-862-5711.

Southern Vermont
Often thought of as a ski destination, Vermont did not blaze its first downhill trail until the mid 1930s, and it wasn't until the 1950s that Vermont became a ski destination. In the late 1800s, Franklin Orvis, brother of Orvis Company founder Charles Orvis, opened the now famous Equinox Hotel in the town of Manchester as a summer resort destination for New Yorkers. Today, visitors have come to appreciate Vermont year round, but arguably, the state is most vibrant between early to mid-October, when fall colors peak. Southwest flies to Albany for as little as $44 each way. Manchester is 60 miles from the airport (approximately an hour and a half drive on the back country roads).

Artists have long gathered in the hills of Vermont for inspiration and solitude. If you feel moved by the state's landscape, join the Autumnal Beauty workshop at the Southern Vermont Arts Center in Manchester. On September 30th, from 9:30 am to 4:30 pm, students will learn to capture nature's fleeting fall colors with pastels ($70, members; $90 non-members). For additional information and other workshops visit www.svac.org.

Hildene, the summer home of Robert Todd Lincoln, son of Abraham and Mary Todd Lincoln, is an exceptional estate. Home to many of the areas activities, events include polo matches, antique shows and hay rides. Stroll the property's trail and farm ($5, children, $2), or enjoy admission to the Lincoln house for an additional $5 (children, additional $2). For more information and directions, www.hildene.org.

To view Vermont from above, brave Skyline Drive, a 5 mile vertical ascent to the nearly 4,000 foot summit of Mount Equinox. The scenic drive leads to a lookout point and five hiking trails. Located off Route 7a, the toll road is open through October 31, 9am to dusk, weather permitting. Toll: $7 a car and driver, $2 each additional passenger. For more information, www.equinoxmountain.com.

WHERE TO STAY
The Equinox Resort is the quintessential country retreat. With workshops on everything from falconry (year round) to fly-fishing (through mid-October), guests will be hard-pressed to escape their inner Vermonter. Rates from $159; www.equinox.rockresorts.com.

WHERE TO EAT
Up for Breakfast only has a dozen tables and very limited hours; you guessed it, they're only open for breakfast. But the crowds line up the stairs of this second floor eatery for some of the most inventive versions of breakfast we've yet to come by. 4935 Main Street, Manchester; 802-362-4204.

Chantecleer, located in a former dairy barn, is fine-dining establishment specializing in seasonal game and Continental cuisine. Dinner only, closed Monday and Tuesday late October through Thanksgiving. Rt. 7a N., East Dorset; 802-362-1616

Adirondack Mountains
The Adirondack region is a 6 million-acre park located in Northern New York and comprised of both protected public and private lands. Approximately the size of Vermont, there are over 2,000 hiking trails for visitors to enjoy. Lake Mohonk is a 90 minute drive from Albany. Southwest flights to Albany start at $44 each way. Leaves peak early October.

The new Natural History Museum of the Adirondacks, which opened this summer in Tupper Lake, is a great place to start your journey. The museum is home to interactive displays, an educational trout stream and a "living river" inhabited by otters, fish, frogs and more. Note: this museum is a destination and can take three hours to reach from Mohonk Mountain House. For current museum hours and admission rates, check out www.wildcenter.org.

WHERE TO STAY
The Mohonk Mountain House is a classic Victorian retreat. Guests never feel the need to leave the compound with a multitude of complimentary activities, including fishing, boating (through October), hiking and more. Three meals a day, plus afternoon tea is included in the room rate, starting at $258 for single occupancy, $415 for double.

Taos, New Mexico
Taos is a three hour trip from Albuquerque. The drive is sweet and fragrant during the harvest season as fall announces itself with the thick smell of roasting chilies. The best time to go is mid-September through October when area Pueblos celebrate the Mother Earth's bounty, roadside stands beckon travels with fresh treats, and the leaves glow red and gold.

The fastest route to Taos is via Route 84, but for a scenic tour of fall foliage drive Highway 76, better known as the High Road. Along the way, stop at local vineyards to sample regional wines (New Mexico is the oldest wine producing region in the United States). For more information: www.nmwine.com.

The San Ildefonso Corn Dance is one of the more vibrant fall festivals. Open to the public, this year it will be held on September 8th at the Pueblo (located about 50 miles south of Taos via U.S. 84/285 then west off N.M. 502). Dancers wear ornate costumes of beads and feathers which are custom made for each festival. After the dance, beads and feathers are disassembled and placed in sacred vessels. For more information: www.newmexico.org.

The New Mexican Chili is unlike chilies found in other regions of the world. Cultivated and harvested for nearly 400 years, the seeds are passed down from one generation to the next and farmed in much the same way as they were centuries ago; on small patches of land painstakingly attended to by hand. The green fruit can be found at farmer's markets late August through September. The more famous red chili is fresh on stands in early October.

WHERE TO STAY
An exercise in both luxury and eco-awareness, the El Monte Sagrado can be found off-the-beaten track, a few miles from downtown Taos. Rooms boast organic beauty products and guests receive local minerals as gifts each night in lieu of mints. The 36 rooms face an inner courtyard with a trickling brook. Basked in luxury, guests could leave unaware that the hotel relies on both on both geothermal and solar power for 60% of its energy; by 2010 the resort has plans to be 100% "off grid." Worth trying: yak-infused dishes, like Organic Yak Chili, at the onsite restaurant, The Gardens (the hotel also manages the only organic-certified yak farm in the United States). From $255; www.elmontesagrado.com.

WHERE TO EAT
Apple Tree Restaurant in downtown Taos is an inexpensive, casual eatery serving traditional New Mexican fare. A popular brunch spot among locals, the restaurant was named for the fruit-bearing deciduous plant that grows in the courtyard. Restaurant hours: lunch, Monday through Saturday 11:30 to 3:00 pm; dinner daily from 5pm; brunch 11:00 to 3:00 pm Sunday. 123 Bent St; 505-758-1900

Joseph's Table (located in Hotel la Fonda de Taos) is a departure from the adobe-inspired interiors of many local restaurants; rich in earth tones, a European flair for dramatics prevails. Many consider the restaurant to be the finest dining in Taos; the menu is eclectic, original and upscale. Lunch is served Monday and Thursday through Saturday from 11:30 - 2:30 pm, dinner daily from 5:30 to 10:00 pm and Sunday Brunch from 10:30 to 2:30 pm. For more information and reservations: www.josephstable.com.

Connecticut River Valley
Connecticut, named for the Mohican word for "long tidal river," is rich in fertile lands and fishing villages. From the quaint rolling countryside that occupies the floodplains to the historic ports on the river, visitors seeking small town America need look no further than the former mill-town of Chester and the ship-building haven of Essex. The most direct route to the region requires a short flight to Hartford (Southwest offers flights starting at $49 each way); Chester is a 35 minute drive from the airport. Leaves peak mid- to late October.

If you want to traverse the countryside's dirt roads, consider taking an off-road driving course with biologist Bruce Elfstrom, the unlikely founder of Overland Experts (www.overlandexperts.com). Elfstrom teaches drivers how to responsibly handle a 4WD in various conditions, always mindful of both driver's safety and the environmental impacts of driving. The result? Students learn to maneuver cars causing minimal damage to flora and fauna when hitting the open road. East Haddam; 877-931-3343.

If walking is more your speed, enjoy a brisk October stroll through an authentic 17-th century river town. Essex is rich in maritime history; in 1776 the first warship built for the Revolution was launched from the town's port. A self-guided tour map is available online; www.essexct.com.

WHERE TO STAY
The Inn and Vineyard at Chester (www.innatchester.com) is a secluded country retreat. Guests will find tradition met with whimsy and sophistication in individually appointed rooms (starting at $135). The hotel's restaurant, the Vineyard, is fine-dining at its best. Chester; 860-526-9541.

WHERE TO EAT
Restaurant du Village offers French-country dining at its finest. Simply known as "the Du" by locals, the Alsatian bistro is at its best at this time of year, when game birds and meat are in season. Closed Monday and Tuesday. Seatings start at 5 pm. Reservations are required. At 59 Main St.; 860-526-5301.

The Griswold Inn (www.griswoldinn.com) offers a harvest menu that features local produce, fresh seafood and New England game and fowl. A historic Essex institution, the main dining room is constructed from a demolished covered bridge. 36 Main Street: for hours, 860-767-1776.

The Great Smoky Mountains
The region of the Appalachian Mountains that is thinly veiled in a perpetual blue haze was originally home to the Cherokee people. Today, the ridge connects what is now the state of North Carolina with its neighbor, Tennessee. The area is thick with flora and fauna; it is the gaseous emissions of the plentiful vegetation that produces the smoky canopy. Hailed as the most visited National Park, prepare for crowds (and traffic!) during the months of October and November when leaf-peeper make the trip for nature's annual color show. The drive to Walland, Tennessee is over seven hours (although it is arguably one of the most scenic nation-wide). To get there faster, fly to Knoxville. Blackberry Farms is a 25 minute drive from the airport.

The Smoky Mountain Field School (http://www.ce.utk.edu/Smoky/) offers courses from Fall Nature Photography (October 21, 8:00 am to 5:00 pm) to a Ghost Town Hike (October 28, 10:00 am to 6:00 pm), but the Incredible Edible class (October 7, 9:30 am to 4:30 pm) is one of the most popular. Discover nature's farm, where medicinal plants and organic foods are abundant as you wander through one of the richest, most biologically diverse regions of the world.

The Ocoee River was the Olympic White Water Rafting course in 1996. As a tribute, The Upper Ocoee is fondly called Olympic Run. Visitors willing to make the two-hour trek from Blackberry Farm can brave the rapids through September 31. Prices start at $35 per person. For more information: www.ocoeerafting.com.

WHERE TO STAY
One of the most celebrated American country resorts, Blackberry Farms is a true working farm, offering artisan cheeses and free-range organic meats. Guests enjoy three gourmet meals and "pantry snacks" daily. The hotel's outdoor activities are designed to savor the spirit of autumn, from canoeing to traditional Fox Hunts, there is much to explore on the 4,000-plus acre property. A three-night stay is required through November. Starting at $745 based on double occupancy; www.blackberryfarm.com.