Walk There

We want to spare the environment and our wallets, but need to get away from it all. So, walk there.

Once you arrive, all you’ll need is the shoes on your feet.

Here are five locations practically in your backyard that promise a weekend’s worth of fun without ever having to get into a vehicle once you arrive at your destination.

After all, the best way to save the world is one step at a time.

Text by Kate Noonan, Renee Sklarew / Photography by Hana Jung

NORTH
Frederick
Walking down the bustling streets of Frederick, Md., you almost feel as though you have stepped right into a Norman Rockwell painting. Two men in overalls dip their roller brushes in white paint to spruce up a wooden fence, a yellow lab holds court while enraptured passersby marvel at his collection of tricks, and an elderly gentleman teases a shop girl about her constantly changing hairstyles. In our wired world of 2009, Historic Frederick is the ideal hideaway to unplug and reconnect with the simpler side of life.

Though small in size, the historic district serves as a vibrant arts hub for surrounding Frederick County, and galleries and other visual and performing arts centers flank the downtown area’s two main drags, Patrick and Market Streets. The Weinberg Center for the Arts welcomes performing artists from all over the word as part of their affordable LIVE! Program, and just off Patrick Street, near the town’s famed mural bridge, is The Delaplaine Visual Arts Education Center, whose old-timey brick structure houses several modern galleries featuring the works of regional contemporary artists.

But tucked away in a nondescript frame shop hides one of Frederick’s arguably least expected art finds. The Museum Shop, owned by art conservator Richard H. Korneman, serves as the unlikely home to a wide range of rare works of art. As you slowly meander around the quiet shop, browsing the interesting collection of beaded jewelry, postcards and ceramics, an impressive collection of exquisite examples of Japanese wood-block prints by well known Edo and Meiji-era artists suddenly emerges from the walls.

Although Japanese prints are their specialty, Korneman’s gallery also displays antique Chinese art and sculpture, along with works by some of Western art’s best-known names including Salvador Dalí and Alexander Calder. So unlikely a locale, even the locals don’t seem to know it exists, The Museum Shop is not only a fun find, but one of the town’s best-kept secrets.

This quaint little town is full of surprises, from the unexpected Museum Shop, to the nearby Carroll Creek Canal Park and Promenade. On a clear, sunny day, a bench alongs the creek is the ideal spot to sip a perfectly prepared cappuccino from La Dolce Vita Café. Owned by Greg and Dana Boltersdorf, La Dolce Vita offers an array of sandwiches, salads and pastries, but their outstanding espresso drinks are the unmatched star. Using high-quality beans from independent roasters, La Dolce Vita’s specialty coffees are crowned with a rich, caramel crema whose luscious scent permeates the Art Nouveau-inspired cafe site and wafts in the breeze along the sparkling canal.

Your culinary trip around the world continues just by travelling a few blocks from the waterfront setting of La Dolce Vita and its next-door neighbor Hinode Japanese Restaurant, to the spicy Tajitu Ethiopian Restaurant on Patrick Street and Bushwaller’s Irish Pub on North Market Street.

With restaurants and cafes at every turn, you could spend the entire weekend eating, but Historic Frederick offers more than just an international experience for your taste buds. It’s a delight for shoppers as well. With a bevy of one-of-a-kind boutiques, Frederick offers a retail experience unrivaled by even some of the area’s biggest cities.

According to Jessie Zuniga of Lipstick and Spurs, a retail shop offering an eclectic mix of Western wear and trendy clothes, “Only 10 percent of stores in Historic Frederick can be chains.”

That’s why you’ll see no shortage of small businesses populating the majority of downtown storefronts, including Urban Cottage, a tiny gift and home decor shop with an eye for all things girlie, and Sky’s the Limit, a women’s clothing and accessories store sales associate Blair Mackintosh describes as “a mix of urban and funky,” that offers an exclusive handmade line by Los Angeles-based designer, Purlieu.

Since its recent revitalization, Frederick has gained a reputation for its shops and restaurants, but the city’s main claim to fame is still its rich historical element. Many of its restored buildings are included on the National Register of Historic Places, and the Tourism Council of Frederick County has partnered with the Historical Society of Frederick County to offer a wealth of options to educate the public about the significant surroundings. In addition to weekend walking tours, the Tourism Council offers free self-guided tours and treasure hunts for any time of the week. “It’s great because it doesn’t cost anything and it’s a way to get the whole family involved,” says Tiffany Wilms, tour and marketing coordinator of the Frederick County Tourism Council.

According to Wilms, weekend walking tours, which focus heavily on Frederick history and architecture, are popular with adults as well as seniors, and are inexpensively priced for individuals.

A single weekend walking tour ticket also includes the price of admission to either one of the historical society’s two Frederick museums: The Roger Brooke Taney House or the Museum and Research Center.

Wilms, who also works as a tour guide for the privately operated Candlelight Ghost Tours of Frederick, explains that nighttime ghost tours are one of the area’s most popular historic activities, for tourists and locals alike. The tours, which appeal to younger members of families, all operate from June through November and manage to sneak in a healthy amount of history.

“There’s just as much history in the ghost tour as in the historic walking tour,” explains Williams, who concludes that the tour’s spooky elements that keep its patrons coming back year after year. —Kate Noonan

WHERE TO STAY:
Hill House B&B
Quaint Victorian townhouse with four guest rooms decorated in an eclectic mix of furnishings located steps from Market and Patrick Streets. All rooms come with private bathrooms and air conditioning, and breakfast is included in every stay. 12 W. Third St., Frederick, MD 21705; 310-682-4111; hillhousefrederick.com

Hollerstown Hill B&B
This true-to-its-period bed-and-breakfast feels lost in time, yet boasts all of the modern amenities 21st-century travelers expect, including high-speed and wireless Internet access. All four guest rooms feature separate sitting areas and private baths, most with claw-foot tubs. 4 Clark Place, Frederick, MD 21701; 301-228-3630; hollerstownhill.com

Best Western Historic Frederick
A modern hotel in an old-time town, the Best Western has all of the typical amenities. Comfortable, traditionally appointed rooms come standard with high-speed internet, cable television and air conditioning, and the hotel offers free access to a pool and fitness center. 420 Prospect Blvd., Frederick, MD; 301-695-6200; book.bestwestern.com

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NORTH
Baltimore
When you think of Baltimore, historic brownstones, world-class art galleries, classical music and high-fashion retail boutiques probably aren’t the first things that spring to mind.

But after a weekend of hoofing it through Charm City, you’ll recognize firsthand that there’s a whole lot more to this revitalizing industrial town than just Natty Boh and blue crabs dredged in Old Bay seasoning.

Just north of Baltimore’s famed Inner Harbor is Mount Vernon, a vibrant cultural district packed with a diverse mix of art galleries, theaters and musical ensembles and home to the Walters Art Museum and the Peabody Conservatory. A few blocks from the Walters, which became free to the public in 2007, is the Contemporary Museum, a non-profit exhibition space that, unlike traditional museums, does not house a permanent collection, but instead hosts special exhibitions by acclaimed international artists throughout the year.

Nearby, in a slick, white box space on Charles Street, C. Grimaldis Gallery exhibits a high-end roster of mid-career and established artists. The longtime gallery of the late Baltimore-based painter Grace Hartigan, C. Grimaldis has showcased works by acclaimed local, national and international artists for more than two decades.

While C. Grimaldis Gallery features a wealth of pricey artwork geared toward the serious collector, nearby Paperwork Gallery exhibits works on paper with a price point for the rest of us. Owned and operated by Baltimore-based artists Cara Ober and Dana Reifler Amato, Paperwork was conceived as a venue to showcase small and often overlooked works on paper. “We do show other types of works as well, including paintings, installation, fiber work and video, but works on paper form the majority of our exhibits,” Ober says. “We feel that Paperwork Gallery is filling a void in Baltimore [as] a place to experience high-quality art in an informal setting.” And with many works priced at $200 and below, you might be tempted to take one home with you.

When it comes to food, there is no question that Baltimore is best known for its blue crabs, but a 20-minute trek over to the Harbor East section of town reveals a whole new side to the city’s restaurant scene. In a soaring former industrial warehouse-turned-ultra-hip restaurant and bar, Pazo gets in on the tapas trend with a Mediterranean twist. Prix fixe menus for two or more people consisting of pre-selected small plates and a dessert start at $59, making it a fashionable yet affordable dinner option.

Foodies will also enjoy the newly minted Harbor East farmers market, which runs each year from June through November. While strolling along Baltimore’s waterfront, shoppers are free to sample a luscious assortment of fruits, vegetables and gourmet goods from local vendors. In addition to the wide array of fresh produce, the farmers market hosts cooking demonstrations with area chefs, highlighting the best ways to cook up seasonal ingredients, and gives kids a way to unwind with an assortment of children’s activities.

But Harbor East isn’t all about food. It’s also known as Baltimore’s best luxury shopping destination and home to local fashionista favorites, South Moon Under and Handbags in the City, which made its debut in 2006. Featuring the latest designs by hard to find designers like Botkier, Kooba and Moschino, the intoxicating smell of leather hits you as soon as you enter the front door. For an accessories hound, the store grants the ultimate shopper’s high, even if you’re just there to browse.

Though undergoing an intense phase of modernization, it is clear that Baltimore has deep historical roots. In fact, it was in Baltimore that Francis Scott Key wrote what would become the national anthem during the War of 1812. Tours of the Star-Spangled Banner Flag House, where Key’s musical inspiration was designed and sewn, are available to the public every Tuesday through Saturday. Located just north of Harbor East, the House Museum’s $7 price of admission includes an orientation film, guided tour and living history activities.

Free walking tours are also provided by the City of Baltimore at the Inner Harbor Visitor’s Center and are guided by a local network of “urban rangers.” Most popular is the Heritage Walk, conceived by the Baltimore Heritage Area’s former director to emulate the historic tours of Boston. The Heritage Walk offers a window into Charm City’s illustrious past as a main port of trade and, as Shautee Daniels, education and outreach administrator at the Baltimore Heritage Area, explains, “tells the story of the early settlement towns Inner Harbor, Historic Jonestown and Old Baltimore through four centuries.”

Other popular tours include the Fells Point Society Walking Tour, which examines how the area’s close ties with the Chesapeake Bay helped to form its unique role in maritime and black history, and the Mount Vernon Cultural Walk, which travels along Baltimore’s beautiful historic byway, Charles Street. The guided tour examines how elite city residents lived during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, particularly following the great fire of 1904. Tour-goers will marvel at the astounding architectural details of the turn-of-the-century brownstones and discover America’s original Washington Monument, in the center of Mount Vernon Place.

Ninety-minute tours begin daily at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m., May through November, do not require reservations and are free of charge to groups of under 10 people. —Kate Noonan

WHERE TO STAY:
Inn at 2920
A contemporary spin on the classic bed-and-breakfast, The Inn at 2920 boasts sleek furnishings with a day-spa feel. A short walk from Harbor East in the hip waterfront neighborhood of Canton, 2920 is just steps from popular bars and neighborhood hangouts. 2920 Elliott St., Baltimore, MD 21224; 410-342-4450; theinnat2920.com

Abacrombie Badger Bed and Breakfast
Home to one of Baltimore’s top-rated restaurants, the Abacrombie Badger offers a taste of the good life once enjoyed by the prosperous original residents of the Gilded Age neighborhood of Mount Vernon. Victorian-styled rooms come equipped with modern amenities, including private bathrooms and cable television, along with off-street parking and free breakfast. 58 W. Biddle St., Baltimore, MD 21201; 410-244-7227; badger-inn.com

Tremont Plaza Hotel
The Tremont Plaza is located two blocks from Mount Vernon and is a 15-minute walk to Harbor East. Modern accommodations provide a comfortable atmosphere in this all-suite hotel. 222 St. Paul Place, Baltimore, MD 21202; 410-727-2222; tremontsuitehotels.com

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NORTHEAST
Logan Circle and U Street Corridor
When you live in the suburbs, a weekend in Washington, D.C., is a vicarious opportunity to join the high-energy urban lifestyle. In the up-and-coming neighborhoods of Logan Circle and the U Street Corridor, young Hill workers, newly arrived immigrants and long-established African-American families claim these streets as their own. Compared to trendy Dupont Circle, there’s less car traffic. Signs of gentrification include loft-style condos and a Whole Foods Market on P Street.

Logan Circle receives top marks from www.WalkScore.com for being walker-friendly and “car-lite.” You won’t miss your four wheels here. Sightseeing, shopping and clubbing are all easily accessed by foot. Two Metro stops, Dupont Circle and U Street/Cordoza, are close as well.

These thriving neighborhoods beckon to pedestrians: “Stop. Explore. Eat!” The Commissary is the one such place. A sharp contrast to the ubiquitous environment of Starbucks, this local lounge has circular seating, and waiter Aaron Mednick says the place stays busy catering to regulars with laptops. Weekends are hopping; brunch here draws big crowds. For upscale dining, 14th Street’s Cork wine bar and rooftop-terrace establishment Marvin’s are two wildly popular restaurants that often require a wait. Casual eateries, like Logan Tavern or Stoney’s, boast outdoor cafes. And for ethnic cuisine, locals recommend Asian delicacies at Thai Tanic or French-bistro fare at Cafe Saint-Ex. Lalibela, an Ethiopian diner that features authentic African cuisine and encourages eating from communal plates of vegetables and meats with soft bread for scooping.

On the third Thursday of each month, area shops stay open late to offer light refreshments and special deals called “Shopper Socials.” Don’t miss Muleh’s Asian-inspired crafts and clothing, or RCKNDY’s home furnishings, office accessories and gifts in modern designs. Stop by The Written Word, a stationery store with panache and unusual art books. At Artfully Chocolate and Kingsbury Confections fans line up for a “Lucy”—a cup of cocoa infused with chipotle peppers and cinnamon. It’s named for the owner’s favorite diva—Lucille Ball. And your pedestrian visit isn’t complete without a stop at Ben’s Chili Bowl—the restaurant where President Obama ate one of his first district meals after the inauguration.

Fine-art galleries cluster together for easy viewing on 14th Street: G Fine Art Gallery, Adamson Gallery and Hemphill Fine Arts are a few of the faves. You can’t miss the grand pillars of the Historical Society of Washington D.C., sponsoring educational lectures like “Tours, Talks and Tea.” If you’re looking for a guide to share the history of these neighborhoods, check to see if the experts at Washington Walks offer a tour while you’re here.

Striding east on P Street, past offices, historic homes and modern hotels, you’ll approach neighborhood namesake, Logan Circle. A serene sky opens and Major General John A. Logan perches regally on his bronze steed, hoof poised for action. Positioned around the circle are homes painted with elegant hues. Like the spokes of a wheel, eight broad boulevards converge here.

The National Historic Register describes Logan Circle as an “unchanged example of a prosperous, late 19th-century residential neighborhood.”

The houses are closely grouped, representing late Victorian and Richardsonian architecture with arched doorways, turrets and cupolas. Many boast stained glass windows, marble doorways and plaques displaying their status as preserved landmarks, dating between 1875 and 1890.

Broad-branched oaks, holly bushes and magnolia trees shade the sidewalks and benches. Each house has a miniature garden tucked behind iron gates.

Two celebrated historical figures were nurtured here. Duke Ellington, the district’s native son, was a composer and entertainer who launched his musical calling in 1917 with a style he termed “American music” rather than jazz. Mary McLeod Bethune, a black educator who started the National Council of Negro Women and advised four American presidents, founded the Council House on Vermont Avenue. The Council House is where a coalition of leaders called the “Black Cabinet” worked on furthering causes during the Roosevelt presidency.

Returning to 14th, you’ll pass The Studio Theatre and The Source. At night, these venues draw enthusiastic audiences, but they have big shoes to fill. In the 1920s, this neighborhood christened by jazz singer Pearl Bailey was known as “Black Broadway” for its prosperous arts scene. The Lincoln Theatre, Howard Theatre and the Bohemian Caverns were among the successful, historic clubs and theaters serving the largest urban black community in the nation.

The boom came to an abrupt halt with the assassination of the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr. in 1968. Protests exploded across the country, and 14th and U Streets transformed from art scene to ground zero with rioting, burnings and looting. The community’s renaissance has a mutually beneficial relationship with its vibrant theater community. The Source was the first fine arts organization to open its doors to the public again in 1977 after the riots.

Another social gathering place is the bookstore/restaurant called Busboys & Poets, where the crowd is a mix of suits, artists and government workers. Here, owner Anas “Andy” Shallal sought to create a welcoming space for writers and community groups. He named the gathering place after Langston Hughes who worked as a busboy in the 1930s before gaining recognition as a poet.

Server Kathleen Gabel, describes Busboys: “It brings together the arts and social justice. This is where the progressive community can hold their heads up high and have a glass of wine.”

After a long day of walking, sit down and join residents in toasting the neighborhood revival. —Renee Sklarew

WHERE TO STAY:
Hotel Helix
A “Pop Art” boutique hotel managed by Kimpton properties. It features brightly colored fixtures, a fitness center, yoga program and a pet-friendly attitude. 1430 Rhodes Island Ave., N.W., Washington, D.C. 20005; 202-462-9001; hotelhelix.com

The Chester Arthur B&B
An 1833 historic Victorian townhouse built during the Arthur administration with thick walls and fireplaces. 23 Logan Circle, on 13th and P Streets, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20005; 413-582-9888; bbonline.com/dc/logancircle

B&B on U Street
This very small, urban townhouse with gourmet continental breakfast gets high ratings. 17th and U Streets, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20005; 877-893-3233; bedandbreakfastonustreet.com

Holiday Inn Central Washington
Clean, affordable and close to restaurants and Whole Foods on P Street. 1501 Rhode Island Ave., N.W., Washington, D.C. 20005; 202 483-2000; www.inndc.com

Next Page >>

 

Once you arrive, all you’ll need is the shoes on your feet

By Kate Noonan and Renee Sklarew

We want to spare the environment and our wallets, but need to get away from it all. So walk there. Here are five locations practically in your backyard that promise a weekend’s worth of fun without ever having to get into a vehicle once you arrive at your destination. After all, the best way to save the world is done one step at a time.

 

Frederick, MD
Though small in size, the historic district serves as a vibrant arts hub for surrounding Frederick County, and galleries and other visual and performing arts centers flank the downtown area’s two main drags, Patrick and Market Streets.

View Larger Map

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Baltimore, MD
When you think of Baltimore, historic brownstones, world-class art galleries and high-fashion boutiques probably aren’t the first things that spring to mind. But after a weekend of hoofing it in Charm City, you’ll see there’s a whole lot more to this revitalizing industrial town that just blue crabs and Natty Boh.

View Larger Map

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Logan Circle/U Street
When you live in the suburbs, a weekend in Washington, D.C., is a vicarious opportunity to join the high-energy urban lifestyle. In the up-and-coming neighborhoods of Logan Circle and the U Street Corridor young Hill workers, newly arrived immigrants and long-established African-American families claim these neighborhoods as their own. Compared to trendy Dupont Circle, there’s less car traffic. Signs of gentrification include loft-style condos and a Whole Foods Market on P Street.

View Larger Map

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Winchester, VA
The surrounding countryside envelops you in sprawling estates situated on rolling farmland; lots of cows, llama farms and pickup trucks. The Shenandoah Valley is renowned for its fertile agriculture, and legendary for growing apples. Visitors can stop by markets, orchards and vineyards on the “Apple Trail—a driving excursion along twisty, country roads. But there’s plenty to do by foot. Park your car at the hotel or county garage, and forget it for the weekend.

View Winchester, VA in a larger map

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Fredericksburg, VA
Fredericksburg is an infinitely walkable town. Park your car once, and you won’t need it again. The Fredericksburg Vistor Center is your first stop for information gathering. Watch the introductory movie, take a trolley ride or schedule a walking tour.

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(September 2009)