The cozy, cool scene at b side (Photo by Rey Lopez)
The cozy, cool scene at B side (Photo by Rey Lopez)

B Side
Modern American / $$ / 8298 Glass Alley, Fairfax

The narrow room. The soft lighting. The escape from shopping. The immediate calm of cocktails, a slice of sausage, salami, soppressata. B Side is a sliver of a restaurant in Mosaic District and is always filled with drinkers, snackers, shoppers. It’s where to go to dine, quite literally, high on the hog. It’s attached to the butcher shop Red Apron with a menu bursting with housemade charcuterie and lots of meat. A meatball, eschewing the companions of veal and beef, exudes pure porkiness over polenta that tastes of pure cream. Pig takes the place of cow in a marrow dish that is a less overt display of meat-as-butter but is still an excuse to spread animal fat over bread. Chimichurri-decked baked beans are a base for sweetly glazed pork belly, and a tender, funky, maddeningly distinct dry-aged beef tenderloin, without anything else on the plate, feels like a steal at $32, though much of the menu costs much less. All you really need is the smoked pimento cheese ($4) and some beef fat fries ($5.50).

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(November 2015)

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