Photo by Stefanie Gans
Photo by Stefanie Gans

Green Pig Bistro
Modern American / $$$ / 1025 N. Filmore St., Arlington

More than three years after its debut, Green Pig Bistro feels settled. Many items remain from the original menu, yet they still feel fresh, like the Buffalo ribs: meaty pork ribs take the place of chicken wings in an even-toned hot sauce. Bacon screams through the beef in a burger ground together with both, served in an appropriately buttery broiche bun. Composed meals work just as well, like the sophisticated black drum paired with salty capers, a cauliflower puree, endearingly soft potatoes and some breadcrumbs. It’s simple, filling, grown-up. But grown-ups get fun, too, with the components of a PB&J morphed into peanut butter cookies with strawberry ice cream and crispy chocolate, like the wafers of a KitKat.

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(November 2015)

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