Photo by Jonathan Timmes
Photo by Jonathan Timmes

Yemeni / $$ / 3900 Pickett Road, Fairfax

Rice is a staple dish all over the world. Each country, each region employs it differently. It’s easy to overlook its everyday delights. But underneath juicy lamb and decorated in browned shallots, this yellowed rice still demands attention. Mandi is a good choice at Saba, but so are many of the dishes at this Yemeni restaurant. A beef stew, fahsa, retains a brightness, a freshness with herbs not weighed down with fat or cream and bursting with garlic. Breakfast can go eggy, scrambled with jalapenos and tomatoes for some hearty spice in the morning, or eggless, with cooked-down fava beans, subtle andsoothing. Desserts sway carby: think flaky, croissant-like torn pieces of rashoush topped with cream, honey, nigella seeds and shredded cheese. It’s salty, creamy, a little chewy and like nothing you’ve ended dinner with before.

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(November 2015)

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