A springy plate with north Atlantic cod and of-the-season vegetables. (Photo by Rey Lopez)
A springy plate with north Atlantic cod and of-the-season vegetables. (Photo by Rey Lopez)

Vermilion
Modern American / $$$$ / 1120 King St., Alexandria

Why must peaches, the glorious orbs of summer realized, be relegated to the last meal of the night? Peaches actually pair well with another summer favorite, tomatoes, for a salad topped with torn mint bursting with juicy ripeness that is like cannonballing into the deep end.

Fish is treated with such kindness at Vermilion, giving the protein a crisp skin and an interior that sways onto the fork with the slightest touch of tines. But this isn’t just a fish house—what surrounds the swimmer is just as important, like the braised radishes, creamy fava beans and pickled ramps combining for a brightness in Lilly Pulitzer shades of pink and green. Desserts lost some of their whimsy since pastry chef Tiffany MacIssac left to start her own business (Naomi Gallego started last month), but there’s also nothing wrong with a fried apple pie helped along with bourbon caramel and smoked almond ice cream.   << Back to 50 Best Restaurants

(November 2015)

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