Photo by Stefanie Gans
Photo by Stefanie Gans

Villa Mozart
Italian / $$$ / 4009 Chain Bridge Road, Fairfax

There’s a brininess shining through the creamy artichoke soup. There’s roasted mushroom notes as well, thanks to porcinis. A big scallop dominates the center of the bowl decorated with microgreens. It’s a beautiful, simple dish, quietly elegant like everything else at Villa Mozart. There are accented servers and white tablecloths and an aura of respectful service rarely felt in new restaurants. It’s a treat to be there. It’s also a treat to find tuna, scallops and rockfish all on one plate, each cooked to its zenith. Tuscan white beans and oyster mushrooms add heft, and a rich and sea-like sauce brings everything together. A chocolate mousse both dense and light is paired with rosemary focaccia, dense like a pound cake, for a sweet-herbaceous ending.

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(November 2015)

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