Eclectic, asian-flecked dishes from Water & Wall (Photo by Jonathan Timmes)
Eclectic, asian-flecked dishes from Water & Wall (Photo by Jonathan Timmes)

Water & Wall
Modern American / $$$ / 3811 N. Fairfax Drive, Arlington

The second restaurant from Tim Ma’s growing culinary footprint, which now includes the sandwich shop and meat counter Chase the Submarine in Vienna, Water & Wall is where Asian inflections hit the menu. Serving ramen ingredients sans broth lets the individual ingredients—cold noodles, cabbage, mushrooms—show off. Blue catfish, normally blackened, remains light with a Thai chili soy sauce. A watermelon salad, smoked just a touch, gains flavor from salty sea beans, though it’s all overpowered by the Roquefort bleu, which funky cheese fans will favor.

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(November 2015)

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