Water & Wall
Modern American / $$$ / 3811 N. Fairfax Drive, Arlington
The second restaurant from Tim Ma’s growing culinary footprint, which now includes the sandwich shop and meat counter Chase the Submarine in Vienna, Water & Wall is where Asian inflections hit the menu. Serving ramen ingredients sans broth lets the individual ingredients—cold noodles, cabbage, mushrooms—show off. Blue catfish, normally blackened, remains light with a Thai chili soy sauce. A watermelon salad, smoked just a touch, gains flavor from salty sea beans, though it’s all overpowered by the Roquefort bleu, which funky cheese fans will favor.