50 Best Restaurants 2018: Market Table Bistro

A modern American restaurant in Lovettsville

Market Table Bistro
Photo by Jonathan Timmes

In a converted house in a little, rural town, there is for dinner: Asian-style crisp-fluffy pancakes with ramps; mac and cheese oozing melty loveliness but also a little signature funk from a high-end creamery; and PEI mussels in a luscious, tomato-drenched wine sauce decked with even more precious sun golds and teardrops and not nearly enough of that toasted focaccia.

There might not be a through line on the menu at Lovettsville’s Market Table Bistro, but the eccentric character is its charm. It’s on-trend with a pastrami’d pork belly and an easy-to-love, down-home, simple fish and rice dish, but here the fish is a Chesapeake blue catfish, an invasive species best eaten to vanquish it from local waters. A chiffon poke cake—literally a cake with holes poked in—oozes a blueberry panna cotta for a tangy, dense dream scenario, the texture of under-baked-on-purpose in the best way possible.

Market Table Bistro
Modern American | $$$
13 E. Broad Way, Lovettsville

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