The modern era of Virginia wine is less than four decades old, and has been built by luminaries like Luca Paschina (the pioneering winemaker for Barboursville Vineyards), Jenni McCloud (Norton grape champion and founder of Chrysalis Vineyards), Doug Fabbioli (a mentor to winemakers across the region and owner of Fabbioli Cellars), Michael Shaps (who, under Michael Shaps Wineworks, is an award-winning consultant with three wines in the 2019 Virginia Governor’s Cup) and the late Dennis Horton (who led the grape experimentation within the state at his Horton Vineyards). Many wine enthusiasts know their stories, here are a few more.
This post was originally published in our October 2019 issue’s cover story. For more wine coverage, subscribe to our weekly Food newsletter.
THE LEGEND
Lucie Morton
Lucie Morton earned the 2018 Virginia Wineries Association’s Lifetime Achievement Award for her nearly 40 years of contributions. In 1973, she planted some of the first modern vines at Morland Vineyards, her family’s farm in King George County. The Charlottesville resident, 68, is a renowned ampelographer and one of the world’s foremost experts on rootstocks. She consults with wineries across the world.
What drew you to wine?
After graduating from college, my dad asked me to come help him manage Morland, the family farm on the banks of the Potomac in Virginia. One of the ideas he had was to plant a vineyard so I looked into it and never looked back.
What should we know about Virginia wine?
The sooner [residents] can identify their own local wineries and discover wines and styles they like, the sooner they can become part of this evolutionary process. They can enjoy it, support it and witness the changes from vintage to vintage. The scale and length that [some] Virginia wineries have gone to create a welcoming place is significant. People are buying more than the liquid. It’s the experience.
Describe Virginia’s wine industry in 10 years.
Virginia is going to have a very solid vineyard and winery industry. And because of development and competition from the brewery and distillery businesses, wineries will continue to grow, but probably not at the same level. We can credit the farm-winery movement with opening the doors for other alcoholic beverages like beer, cider and distilled spirits. Their hard work created a lot of support from the state.
I do see growth continuing in rosé and sparkling wines, which do well in our climate and gives us somewhere to go in years when we can’t make barrel-worthy reds. We are learning which grapes grow well and where, and that’s an important piece of the picture. The first 20 years was one big experiment.
THE INDEPENDENT
Nate Walsh
After seven years as winemaker at Sunset Hills, while simultaneously working on side wine projects, Nate Walsh, 37, finally opened his own place this spring, Walsh Family Wine, in the former North Gate Vineyards space in Purcellville. He and his wife, Sarah, who works in the wine sales business, oversee 50 acres of grapes at sites around Loudoun County, including 10 estate acres. Walsh Family will produce 3,500 cases of wine this year, including a fizzy petillant naturel, Plateau, and an experimental dry red sparkler called Mezcla. There are also more bubbles in the future: The Walshes planted Champagne clones of chardonnay for a blanc de blanc sparkling wine.
What drew you to wine?
In 2004, I worked a harvest in Charlottesville. It was a fun job, but I didn’t really intend to continue a path in wine. But then I did another, and another, and I fell in love with wine itself: the physical side, the seasons and how connected you become to the work.
What should we know about Virginia wine?
We can make great wine here, and there are more great sites out there. But first, you have to plant in a smart way. There’s a lot of experimenting going on, with peaks and valleys quality-wise. But in the last 10 years I have seen immense change in a great way.
Describe Virginia’s wine industry in 10 years.
Weather will change the profile of what we are growing in Virginia. And at some point, we are bound to hit a plateau of wineries that tourism can support.
THE NEWCOMER
Corry Craighill
Lynchburg native and winemaker for both Sunset Hills and its sister vineyard, 50 West, Corry Craighill attended the University of Virginia—majoring in religion and bioethics—but it was Charlottesville’s other great attraction that captured her imagination. In addition to time at Virginia powerhouses King Family and Blenheim, Craighill, 30, worked under Nate Walsh, and in Oregon, Australia, New Zealand, France and South Africa, giving her a unique and global perspective. Her work has already been recognized by the Virginia Wineries Association and the Loudoun Wine Awards, and this January, vineyard manager Silvia Liggieri joined the company, making them a rare two-women team overseeing both sides of the winemaking process.
What’s your approach to winemaking?
I’ve worked in three hot spots of pinot noir, and I make a lighter style red. I try to rein it in here in Virginia and focus on freshness over tannins, without sacrificing complexity. I want to make wines with texture, both whites and reds, without losing integrity of the vineyard. I don’t want to manipulate.
What should we know about Virginia wine?
We are making wines with intent. Growers are growing with intent and winemakers are using that intention in making their wines, as well.
Describe Virginia’s wine industry in 10 years.
Continuing to choose smart sites is key, because you have to have good fruit to make good wine. There are lots of resources available to help, from workshops to the Virginia Wineries Association to other winemakers and growers who are willing to lend an ear and point you in the right direction. [Wine professionals] need to do the research. Don’t just get information, get the right information.