FOODĒ

For: Simple Southern-ish

For: Simple Southern-ish

1006 C / D Caroline St., Fredericksburg; 540-479-1370; foodeonline.com

An hour before the 2 p.m. close of Sunday brunch, FOODE staff spoke only in terms of 86. Of what’s nixed, axed, scratched.

Six out of 14 dishes fell into the sold out category while guests continued streaming in on a day perfect for brunching and antiquing in downtown Fredericksburg.

All items with fried chicken were donezo, but the meatless breakfast biscuit worked just fine, with omelette-style eggs and a thin layer of cheddar cheese. My North Carolina-raised dining companion noted the Southern staple was flaky and buttery, but a little dry.

Another nod to the South came in drink form: Iced tea served in a (obvious, overplayed) mason jar, can turn as sweet and minty as desired with a pour-your-own shot of mint simple syrup served on the side.

A lightly curried chicken salad sandwich embeds pickled red onion slivers between chunks of white meat, embraced in a slather of golden raisin aioli on toasted country bread for a simple sandwich you can feel good about. Just be sure you get there in time before the cashier can call out “ixnay on the ickenchay andwichsay.”

 

(October 2012)

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