Taco Bamba

Chef Victor Albisu brings the spice to this low-key taco shop.

By Stefanie Gans, Dining Editor

FOR: TONGUE IN YOUR TORTILLA

2190 Pimmit Drive, Falls Church; 703-639-0505;
tacobambarestaurant.com

Chef Victor Albisu opened two restaurants within two months: a fancy Argentine steakhouse in D.C., and a low-key taco shop in Falls Church.

tacar/shutterstock.com

Taco Bamba, which launched breakfast last month, resides in the same shopping center as his mom’s Latin grocery store and butchery and relies on some of her meat for the offerings in his ordinary (carne asada) and extraordinary (fried tilapia with squid ink) tacos.

The fried pork and beef tongue is both crunchy and pleasantly chewy. A searing spice on the mushroom taco keeps it interesting. Tilapia is fried to a puff with a Corona batter and surprises with squid ink, adding a luxurious (and messy) note. The rice and beans come mushy and homey.

After tasting six tortilla brands, Albisu settled on La Banderita. I can’t help wanting homemade from this gourmet taco shop. A little help, mom?

(September 2013)

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