50 Best Restaurants 2017: Requin

A French-Mediterranean restaurant in Fairfax

Photo by Rey Lopez

Before we get into the smashed fingerlings smothered in cheese and crispy salami and the deviled lamb rillettes with cherries and a full-stop-perfect chocolate souffle with hazelnut ice cream, know that Requin probably won’t be serving any of this come six months from now.

While Jen Carroll will still run the Mosaic kitchen, the concept will change from French-Mediterranean to French brasserie-style—think cheese boards, mussels, steak frites. But for now, find beauty in a pound and a half of dorade, cloaked in lentils and sweet-savory sun golds, and crispy cod croquettes with almost-liquefied fish under not nearly enough of that dazzling harissa aioli.

Cross your fingers the souffle sticks around.

French-Mediterranean | $$$
8296 Glass Alley, Fairfax

(50 Best Restaurants 2017November 2017)