50 Best Restaurants: No. 8 goes to The Restaurant at Patowmack Farm

This local favorite with national recognition takes farm-to-table quite literally.

restaurant at patowmack farm food
Photo by Jonathan Timmes

By Stefanie Gans and Rina Rapuano

The Restaurant at Patowmack Farm
Lovettsville | Modern American | $$$$

Dinner at this local favorite with national recognition starts with a healthy dose of excitement blended with an immediate sense of relaxation, thanks to the tranquil gardens and mountain views. But in the case of our last meal at this literal farm-to-table spot, dinner ended with a philosophical discussion of what’s more important in a fine-dining space: risk-taking or deliciousness?

This post originally appeared in our November 2019 issue’s 50 Best Restaurants cover story. For more food reviews, subscribe to our weekly newsletter.

hands with chopsticks grabbing duck tenderloin
The ingredient lists are long at The Restaurant at Patowmack Farm. Pictured: Grilled duckling tenderloins with sprouts pickled in curry leaf vinegar, yellow chili kaffir cheese, crystalized honey and garnished with wild yarrow, which chef Tarver King says tastes like black tea. (Photo by Jonathan Timmes)

Outstanding service sets the tone for the $110 multi-course dinner, where a gorgeous (and damn tasty!) parade of tiny bites comes to the table, including a wooden box featuring Today’s Harvest, releasing smoke when opened, a perfect raw oyster dressed with housemade hot sauce aged in a whiskey barrel, and some of the best zucchini bread ever made, served with cultured butter and salt.

pink dessert from restaurant at patowmack farm
Photo by Jonathan Timmes

But, the main course, titled Beef BBQ and Beer, featured dry brisket. Soon though, came round one of dessert (a palate cleanser flavored with the Peruvian herb, huacatay) and then another (an elaborate peach melba) and, finally, take-home confections presented at the end of the meal, dubbed Candy Shoppe (macaron, truffle, marshmallow) were pure joy.

It’s hard to get everything right when menus change as often as they do here in Lovettsville, but we’re still looking forward to continuing the discussion at the next visit to Tarver King’s laboratory in the woods. // 42461 Lovettsville Road, Lovettsville

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